Podium Newsletter 12 - Nov10 - The Antique Tractor Pull Guide · 2010-11-29 · Podium Newsletter...

©2010 by Zack Peterson and Podium Finish, LLC – www.antiquetractorpullguide.com 1

Welcome to the Podium Club!

The information found at www.antiquetractorpullguide.com is like no other information out there. The tips, tricks and secrets of successful tractor pulling are designed to improve your performance at the next tractor pull, while having more fun at the same time.

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Wheels and tires are a major component of tractor pulling success. For the most part, larger tires usually yield better traction, but most antique tractors were equipped with rims to accommodate stock tire sizes. In order to put larger tires on a tractor, the rims usually need to be wider. Let’s look at an example - one of the most popular original tire sizes for lighter tractors was 11-38, which is 12.4-38 in today’s tire sizes. The interesting part is that most tractors that had 11-38 tires used a 10” wide rim. It’s possible to shoehorn the next larger size tire, a 13.6-38, but the side walls will appear “sucked in” and the tire takes on a ballooned look.

The general rule of thumb is to match the width of the rim with the width of the tire. This allows the bars of the tire to lie flat on the ground, aiding traction.

Rims, even during the antique tractor era were available in different sizes, although they can be tough to find these days as original equipment. Even tougher to find are the wider sizes – 14”, 15”, 16” or wider. Of course, rims are available brand new that can be used with original centers, but they are expensive – to the tune of $300/pc or more.

One way to build an economical set of pulling wheels is to start with rims that weren’t originally intended for an antique tractor. Many times, dual rims can be found with tires on them, and are the same basic rim, only modified to attach to the outside of a regular tractor rim.

See the next page for an example of dual rims.

How to make a low cost set of pulling wheels

November 2010


November 2010

How to make a low cost set of pulling wheels (cont)

Below is a recently found pair of 15.5-38 Goodyear tires mounted on double bevel dual rims that will make a great set of pulling tires for the Massey Harris 101 project. The tires are road worn and hard. Note the dual ring welded to one side of each rim. This is to allow the rim to pilot on the inside of the tractor’s regular rim. The rims also feature hooks that are welded on to secure the dual.

Close up of the treadNote welded in dual rings


November 2010

Originally, the “double bevel” style rim was intended for a cast iron wheel center held in place with clamps. Since a cast iron center is too heavy for tractor pulling, a stamped steel disc will be welded in instead. Rims are 14”.


Tire dismounted

The dual ring was originally tack welded in place and only required an angle grinder to cut each weld.

Welded hook (6 per wheel). Since these hooks have some weight to them and they cross

over one of the bevels in the rim, they were all removed.


November 2010


Removed hooks

One other thing to address are the rim lock features stamped into the rim. The idea is to use the bevel to pilot the center on, so two of the four stamped rim locks had to be heated and worked down using a hammer.

Hook area ground and clean


November 2010


An original 10” wide pressed steed rimNote rim width is measured to the inside of the rim where the tire bead contacts

The original 10” wide flat base rim shown above is held on with three rivets on each “spoke”, for a total of twelve. Rivet heads can be ground off on the outside of the rim and driven inward. A tack weld must also be ground off on each spoke and then the center drops out.

Here is some interesting technical data:

10” pressed steel rim and center weight: 118lbs

Pressed center weight: 55lbs

Center backspacing in 10” wide rim: 10”

Rim material thickness: ~0.156”

Center material thickness: ~0.188”

14” wide double bevel rim weight: 103lbs

14” wide double bevel rim with center: ~160lbs

Center backspacing (with center against bevel): 9”

Material thickness: ~0.188”


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Pressed center fitted to double bevel rim. *Grinding required to fit due to differences in rim thickness. Note: center “piloted” true against bevel.

A few skip welds to secure the center

One thing to consider when welding in a new center is the “backspacing” of the center. Simply put, this is the distance between the inside of the center and the rim. Original backspacing for a 10” wide pressed rim is 10” and mounted in the 14” wide double bevel rim, it’s 9”.

Rims ready for tire re-mount


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Shown below and on the next page are original Goodyear rim data, which is always helpful when figuring out what rim to use with which tire.

Chart from 1959Chart from 1985, note addition

of 38” sizes for 16.9 and up


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Rim cross sections (see next page for dimension information):


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How to make a low cost set of pulling wheels (cont)Rim Dimensions (also note rim weight):


November 2010

A quick guide to Electronic Ignition

The very first myth to address about electronic ignition is the belief that it is complicated to install. This simply isn’t true and in fact, electronic ignition is VERY easy to install, works very well, and is VERY reliable year to year.

Let’s focus on a Pertronix electronic ignition system. Pertronix specs most of their Ignitor I products for antique tractors and this is the most likely product found with most suppliers.

The main concerns surround this style of ignition are the coil and resistance in the circuit. With Ignitor I units, a minimum resistance measured at the coil should be 3-4 ohms. This simply cuts down the operating current the Pertronix ignitor is subjected to, keeping it running cool. Usually the failure mode for these modules is due to excessive heat. What’s the best way to avoid any problems, especially if you’re unsure about ignition circuit resistance? Buy the correct coil, even one that is recommended for use with an electronic ignition module, such as the Pertronix Flame-Thrower coil.

Below shows the installation of the Pertronix 1541 ignitor in the Massey Harris Mustang.

Autolite distributor The Pertronix 1541 module

(yep, that’s it!)


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A quick guide to Electronic Ignition (cont)

Most ignition coils will state whether or not they require an external resister in the ignition circuit.

Distributor cap removed

Original contact points and condenser. These are to be completely removed, along

with the mounting plate.

Note 4.9 ohm resistance. This is a good coil to use with Pertronix

Low resistance coil, ~2 ohm


November 2010

A quick guide to Electronic Ignition (cont)

Rotor reinstalled

One other good idea is to use shielded spark plug wires. These will also help keep heat from building up in the ignitor. Also, do not leave the ignition switch in the ON position without the engine running. This may cause the ignitor to overheat.

For more information and catalog of products, visit www.pertronix.com.

Magnet installed over the rotor shaftNew Pertronix base plate installed with mounted pickup

Distributor cap reinstalled, two wire connection completed – red to coil positive,

black to coil negative. SO SIMPLE!!!


November 2010

Front Weight Bracket Ideas - Removable

More and more every year designs change for tractor pulling equipment. One such design is the front weight bracket. Many clubs are moving toward the 11’ rule, that is “no part of any weight shall extend further forward than 11’ as measured along the ground from the rear axle”. With short wheelbase tractors especially, this can create quite a long front weight bracket that could even be considered “in the way” when not on the pulling track.

One nifty way to ease hauling and save space in the tractor shed is to build a front weight bracket that is removable. This can be done in several ways, but one of the easiest ways to achieve this is with box tubing. In the examples below, you’ll notice the weight bracket actually can be slid out and storedelsewhere. For hauling purposes, another insert with a hook point could easily be slipped into place. This is a great way to comply with the rules and not have a gaudy front weight bracket if you plan to show your tractor as well.

Box tubing used for front weight bracket


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Front Weight Bracket Ideas – Removable (cont)

One other great thing about box tubing is that it’s light and extremely strong.


Coming next month…

� Material review – which cross sections are the strongest

� What “stock” means & pulling “pure stock” classes

� Winter project updates – engines that run!

� And more…

I want to hear from you! If you have feedback, requests or information you would like featured, please send an email to: [email protected].

Milwaukie 4-1/2” grinder

1995 – 2010

(sniffle, sniffle)

Podium NewsletterNovember 2010

December issue will be available 12/29

Podium Newsletter 12 - Nov10 - The Antique Tractor Pull Guide · 2010-11-29 · Podium Newsletter...

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Transcript of Podium Newsletter 12 - Nov10 - The Antique Tractor Pull Guide · 2010-11-29 · Podium Newsletter...