340

IndexABBREVIATIONSACT Australian Capital TerritoryNSW New South WalesNT Northern TerritoryQld QueenslandSA South AustraliaTas TasmaniaVic VictoriaWA Western Australia

See also GreenDex pp348-9.

AAbel, Reverend Charles 86, 117accommodation 282-5, see also

individual locationsvillage stays 122, 235

activities 285-9, see also individual activities

acute mountain sickness 324Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft

wreck 245agriculture 22-3Ahus Island 239Aibom 198air travel

airfares 308airlines 306-7airports 306-7history 312to/from PNG & Solomon Islands

307-10within PNG & Solomon Islands

312-15Aitape 187Alexishafen 147Alotau 109-13, 110Amboin 199Ambunti 194Amron 147ancestor worship 36Anderson, Robin 42Anga people 127, 201Anganmai 199Angoram 197-8animals 48-52, see also individual

speciesbooks 50, 51wildlife-watching 53,

289April (Wara) River 198Arawa 244architecture 44area codes 300, see also inside front

coverArnarvon Islands 280

Aronis 147artefacts 42, 47, 298-9, see also

carvingsbilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195Buka baskets 47, 241-2Highland hats 47, 81, 159, 167masks 46, 228, 294, 7nguzunguzus 46 pottery 45, 145-6, 198storyboards 45-6, 177, 198tapa cloth 44-5, 47, 137

arts 41-7, see also individual artsbooks 45

Asaro mud men 159-60Aseki 140ATMs 297Auki 276Australian War Memorial (Alotau) 110Avu Avu 261

BBaeroko Bay 265Baining people 213, 215Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146Bandit 149-50bandits, see raskolsBargam 147Basilisk Passage 76baskets 47, 241-2bathrooms 301bats 49, 142Battle of Milne Bay 88Battle of Wau 125Bau 137Beehives, the 219, 223Bellona 281Bellona Province 279-81Bensbach 208betel nut 35Betikama 258-9bicycle travel, see cyclingBilbil 145-6bigmen 34, 35bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195Bird island 280birds 48-51, see also individual

speciesbirds of paradise 50-1, 129, 173,

206, 207books 48, 49

bird-watching 207, 285Bensbach 208Galahi Island 116Kimbe Bay 226Kiunga 206, 207Los Negros Island 239Manus Island 239Mt Hagen 169Rennell 279Samarai Island 116Tari 173-4tours 173-4, 206, 285Tufi 108Varirata National Park 83

Bita Paka War Cemetery 218Black Cat Track 137blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8Blackwater Lakes 199Blue Lagoon Lookout 218boat travel 286, 315-16, see also

canoes, rafting, sailingSepik River 191-3to/from PNG 311to/from Solomon Islands 311

Bobongara 138Bogia 147Bol 236Bolubolu 118Boluminski Hwy 235-6Bomana War Cemetery 83Bonegi 259books 16, 17

arts 45birds 48, 49Bougainville 30food 66Kokoda Track 28, 103travel 16wildlife 50, 51WWII 28

border crossings 310-11, 314Botanical Gardens 129Bougainville 243-5

books 30itineraries 20

Bougainville Revolution Army 29, 241, 245, 314

Boulay, Franck 61Brahmin 149British East India Company 25

Buin 245Buka 242-3Buka baskets 47, 241-2Buka Island 242-3Buka Passage 242, 242Bula Falls 135Bulldog Track 137Bulolo 139-40Buna 106Bundi 149bushwalking, see trekking, walkingbusiness hours 290Butaweng waterfalls 138butterflies 51, 54, 105, 147

Butterfly Ranch 139Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146

Bwetalu village 122

CCalvados chain 123camping 282cannibalism 23, 25

Anga people 201China Strait 116laughing disease 161New Britain 212New Ireland Province 228

canoes 316Cape Espérance 260Cape Moem 183Cape Wom International Memorial

Park 183car travel 317-18cargo cults 33, 34Carteret, Captain Philip 24carvings 45

buying carvings 298Gogdala 46Malangan 46, 228master carvers 46, 122, 191, 269Sepik, the 177, 183, 195, 7Trobriand Islands 122Wewak 183

cassowaries 48-9caves

Benua Cave 241burial caves 140Kalopa Cave 120Kantobo 172Keu Caves 162Loniu Cave 239Manubyai Cave 147Octopus Cave 280Oketemp Cave 188Oksapmin 188

Riba Cave 276skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172

caving 286cell phones 300cemeteries

Bagail Cemetery 229Bita Paka War Cemetery 218Bomana War Cemetery 83Lae War Cemetery 129-30Madang Cemetery 142Peter ToRot’s cemetery &

memorial church 219Centennial Hill 89Central Province (PNG) 88-90, 86-7

history 86-7Central Province (Solomon Islands)

261-3, 261 Chambri Lakes 198-9children, travel with 290Chimondo 198Chinatown 253Choiseul 280Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201Christmas Island 242Christopher Robinson Memorial 115cinema 42-3, see also filmsclimate 15, 290-1

global warming 53-4, 307Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142Connolly, Bob 42consulates 293coral cuts 325coral ear 325cormorants 280costs 15-16crafts, see artefactsCrater Mountain Wildlife Management

Area 160credit cards 297cricket 39, 121, 6crocodiles 48, 208, 324

Crocodile Festival 194cruises 315Crystal Rapids 84cults 33, 34, 36, 120cultural shows 10, 294, see also

festivalsBargam Agricultural Show 147Cameron Cultural Show 111Goroka Show 158Hagita Cultural Show 111Kundiawa Simbu Show 294Morobe Show 131Mt Hagen Show 166Tufi Cultural Show 107

Umboldi Cultural Show 149Wahgi Cultural Show 294

culture 33-47ancestor worship 36bigmen 34, 35bride price 36initiation rites 36, 197Southern Highlands 170wantoks 37

customs, food 66customs regulations 291cycling 236, 315

DDalom 236Dampier, William 25, 150dance 43-4dangers 291-2

diving 325hitching 318raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296

darts 156Daru 205Daugo Island 76Daulo Pass 160David Suzuki Trail 136de Bougainville, Louis 24-5de Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro 23-4dengue fever 322D’Entrecasteaux Islands 116-18diarrhoea 323disabilities, travellers with 301-2diving 55-63, 286-7, 55, 5

Gizo 63, 270-1Guadalcanal 60hazards 325Honiara 253internet resources 62Kavieng 59, 230-1Kimbe Bay 59, 226Kokopo 214-15live-aboard boats 57, 115Madang 56-7, 142-3Marovo Lagoon 62-3, 267-8Milne Bay 58muck diving 57, 58, 107, 116, 286-7Munda 61-2, 264Port Moresby 57, 76Rabaul 58, 220Russell Islands 61Samarai Island 116Tawali 115Tufi 57, 107Tulagi 61, 262WWII sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253

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documentaries 42Doini Island 116drinks 65driving 317-18Duke of York Group 224, 225Dutch East Indies Company 24

EEarhart, Amelia 26, 128East Cape 113-14East Islands 234-5East New Britain Historical & Cultural

Centre 214East New Britain Province 213-25East Sepik Province 178-85Eastern Highlands Province

156-61Eastern Island Groups 238 economy 12, 36-8ecotourism 54

GreenDex 348-9electricity 283elephantiasis 322embassies 293emergencies, see inside front coverEnga Province 168-9Enhanced Cooperation Program 13Enoghae 265environment 48-54environmental issues 52-4

global warming 53-4, 307Marovo Lagoon 266mining 52-3Sepik, the 177

ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249events, see cultural shows, festivalsexchange rates, see inside front

coverexpatriates 38-9

Ffax services 300-1Feni Island 238Fergusson Island 118festivals 294, see also cultural shows

Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival 131-2

Crocodile Festival 194Enga Festival 168Garamut & Flute Festival 181Hiri Moale Festival 76

International Orchid Spectacular 76Kalam Culture Festival 149Mabarosa Festival 143Malagan Festival 231Milamala Festival 119Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe

Festival 111PNG Coffee Festival 158Warwagira Festival 215yam festivals 184

filariasis 322films 17, 41, 42, see also cinemaFinschhafen 138-9First Contact 27, 42, 153fishing 287

Alotau 111Baia 227Bensbach 208Daru 205Honiara 253Kavieng 231Kikori 204Lae 131Marovo Lagoon 268Ramata 268

Flannery, Tim 48Fly River 201, 204, 206flying foxes 49, 52, 140Flynn, Errol 16, 22, 87food 64-7, 294, see also individual

locationsbooks 66customs 66

football 39Free West Papua Movement 30, 176frogs 50, 52fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106

GGagidu Station 138Galahi Island 116garamuts 43, 45

Garamut & Flute Festival 181gay travellers 294-5Gazelle Peninsula 212, 220,

218-19geography 48German New Guinea Company 125,

138, 176, 212, 240German settlement 25Ghizo Island 270-4giardiasis 324Gifu 258Gizo 270-3, 271

diving 63, 270-1

Goilala region 90golf

Lae 131Madang 143Port Moresby 76Wewak 181

Gona 106Goodenough Island 118Goroka 156-9, 157Govermas 199Green Island 238Green River 193Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1

diving 60Guinea Airways 312Gulf Province 201-4, 202-3gun run 314Gwado 135Gwale people 30, 249

HHansa Bay 148Hanuabada 73haus tambarans 36, 44, 195headdresses 46head-hunting 23, 201, 228,

277health 320-6

insurance 320internet resources 321

hepatitis A 322hepatitis B 323Hermit 240Highlands, the 152-74, 154-5

Eastern Highlands Province 156-61Enga Province 168-9Simbu Province 161-3Southern Highlands Province

169-74Western Highlands Province 163-8

hiking, see trekking, walkingHiritano Hwy 84, 89-90history 22-32, see also Kokoda Track,

WWIIblackbirding 26, 87, 227-8German settlement 25independence 29WWI 26

hitching 318Hiti people 24HIV/AIDS 323holidays 295Holupuru Falls 265Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral 253Hombrum Bluff Lookout 83

Honiara 247-58, 252-3accommodation 253-5attractions 250diving 253drinking 256entertainment 256-7food 255-6travel to/from 257travel within 257-8

Hoskins 225hotels 282-4, see also individual

locationsHula beach 90Huli people 170, 173Huli wigmen 173Huon Gulf coast 135-8

IIalibu 171-2Ihu 203-4Indabu 195, 198independence 29initiation rites 36, 197insurance

health 320travel 295

internet access 295internet resources 16-18

diving 62health 321music 43WWII 27

Isabel 280Island Provinces 209-45, 210-11itineraries 19-21

JJacquinot Bay 224Jais Aben 146-7James, Keith 231Japanese B Encephalitis 323Japanese Barge Tunnels 218Japanese bases 106, 274Japanese Memorial Peace Park 180Japanese Observation Point 258Japanese Peace Memorial 220jellyfish 325jewellery 46-7JK McCarthy Museum 157-8

KKaibola village 120Kaileuna Island 120Kainantu 160-1Kaintiba 204

Kaip village 169Kairiru Island 184Kaisiga 120Kambaramba 198Kambot 198Kamiali Wildlife Management Area

136-7Kamina 204Kaminabit 196Kanabea 204Kanganaman 195kangaroos, tree 50, 150Kangu Beach 245Kantobo 172Karavia Bay 218Karawari River 199Karkar Island 150-1Kau Rainforest Museum &

Conservation Area 147Kauage, Mathias 41, 45Kavieng 229-34, 230

diving 59, 230-1kayaking 286

Kavieng 229, 231Loloata Island 90Marovo Lagoon 268-9

Kennedy Island 63, 271Kennedy, John F 27, 273 Keram River 198Kerema 202-3Kieta 244Kikori 204Kimbe 225-6Kimbe Bay 226

diving 59, 226Kiriwina Island 119-23, 119Kitava Island 121Kiunga 206-7Kohinggo island 266Koitabu people 69Koki 73-4Kokoda 105Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation

106Kokoda Track 27, 91-105, 92-3,

94-5, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104books 28, 103history 27, 98-100Kokoda Challenge 101maps 93planning 91-5travel to/from 95-6trekking companies 93-5

Kokopau 244

Kokopo 213-18, 214Koliwan, Moses 244Kolombangara 274Komate 261Konogogo 237Konos 236Kontu 237Korogo 194Krangket Island 145kula ring 117Kuma 261Kundiawa 161-2kundu drums 43 kuru 161Kwaibala Waterfall 276Kwaio people 278Kwato Island 116

LLababia 136Labi Island 121Labu Lakes 135Labu Tali Conservation Area 135-6Lae 128-35, 130

accommodation 132-3attractions 129festivals 131food 133travel to/from 134travel within 134-5

Lae War Cemetery 129-30Laiagam 169Laing Island 148Lake Govermas 199Lake Kopiago 174Lake Kutubu 172Lake Rau 169Laloki River Gorge 83Langa Langa Lagoon 277-8Langemack Bay 138language 327-30

food glossary 67Summer Institute of Linguistics

160Lapita people 22, 212Lau Lagoon 278laughing disease 161Lavongai (New Hanover) 234Leahy, Mick 27leatherback turtles 135, 136leeches 324legal matters 295-6Lelet Plateau 237lesbian travellers 294-5Libba 236

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Lido 187Lihir 238literature, see bookslive-aboard boats 57, 115logging 52, 54, 185, 266Lola island 265Loloata Island 90Loloho 244Long Island 150Los Negros Island 239-40Louisade Archipelago 123Lutheran Mission 125

MMacGregor, Sir William 26Madang 140-5, 141

diving 56-7, 142-3Madang Province 140-51,

126-7history 125

Madehas Island 242Magendo 198Magi Hwy 90magic practice 34, 35, 41, 278, see

also witchcraftMagiya 147Maio 193Makira-Ulawa 280Malaita Island 274-9Malaita Province 274-9, 275Malalaua 204Malangan 46malaria 323Malay people 23Malinowski, Bronsilaw 118, 120Malmaluan Lookout 219Malolo 147Malom 236Malu’u 278Mamara Beach 259Mameri 199Mana 262Manam Island 148, 151Maneba 138Mangalonga 262Manikaraku 260Manta Ray Cleaning Station 116Manubada (Local) Island 76Manus Island 239Manus Province 238-40Maprik 184-5

maps 296Kokoda Track 93

Marau Sound 260Mariama 199markets

Gizo 270Goroka 159Honiara 252Koki 73Kokopo 214-15Mt Hagen 167Port Moresby 81Wewak 182-3

Marovo Lagoon 266-70, 267diving 62-3, 267-8

masks 46, 228, 294, 7Mataniko Falls 258Matupit Island 223May (Iwa) River 198Mbanbanakira 261McDonald’s Corner 83measures 283, see also inside front

covermedical services 321-2, see also healthMekeo people 89Mendam 198Mendi 170-1Menyamya 140Messi 237metric conversions, see inside front

coverMilne Bay Province 109-23, 86-7

diving 58Mindimbit 196mining 36, 52

Bougainville copper mine 12Ok Tedi Mine 205Panguna mine 241Porgera mine 168

Mioko Island 224Misima Island 123mobile phones 300moga ceremony 171Moim 198money 15-16, 293, 296-7, see also

inside front coverMoresby, Captain John 69Morgan Junction 244Morobe Province 127-40, 126-7mosquitoes 178, 322, 323Moti, Julian 14, 31motorcycle travel 317-18Motu people 69Mt Austen Rd 258Mt Balbi 244

Mt Bau 265Mt Bosavi 172-3Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park 160Mt Hagen 164-8, 164Mt Kis Lookout 158Mt Lamanai 118Mt Lamington 29, 106Mt Lunaman 130-1Mt Tambu 136Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, 222,

223, 8Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224Mt Wilhelm 162-3muck diving 58, 286-7

Samarai Island 116Tufi 57, 107

mud men 159-60Munda 264

diving 61-2, 264Murik Lakes 198Muschu Island 184museums

Betikama WWII museum 259East New Britain Historical &

Cultural Centre 214JK McCarthy Museum 157-8Kau Rainforest Museum &

Conservation Area 147Madang museum 142Munda WWII museum

264National Museum (Port Moresby)

75-6National Museum & Cultural

Centre (Honiara) 251New Guinea Club & Rabaul

Museum 219Vilu open-air museum 260Wabag cultural centre 168

music 43Mustar, Pard 312

NNagada Harbour 146Nagam 198Namatanai 236-8Nateara Reef 76National Botanic Gardens 76National Museum (Port Moresby)

75-6National Museum & Cultural Centre

(Honiara) 251national parks 52

Lake Kutubu 172Varirata National Park 83

National Parliament 251Ndoma 260New Britain 212-27, 218-19

East New Britain Province 213-25West New Britain Province 225-7

New Ireland Province 227-38newspapers 40, 283Nggela Islands 261-2Ninigo 240Nobonob 146Normanby Island 117-18Noro 265Northern Malaita Island 278North Solomons Province

240-5Nusa Roviana 265

OObweria village 122Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146Ok Tedi Mine 205Oksapmin 174, 188Omarakana 120Ona, Francis 29, 30, 241opening hours 290Oro Bay 107Oro Province 105-8, 86-7

history 86-7

PPagwi 194painting 44-5Palambei 195Panguna 244Paradise beach 89Parliament Haus 74-5passports 306Pema 137Peter ToRot’s cemetery &

memorial church 219Phantom, the 34phonecards 300photography 297Pigeon Island 280Pijin 327-8planning 293, see also

itinerariesplants 49, 51, see also individual plantsPMVs 318-19Poha 259Point Cruz 250politics 12-14, 30-2

ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249

Polynesian people 23

Popondetta 105-7population 38-9Port Moresby 68-84, 70-1

accommodation 78-9activities 76attractions 73-6Boroko 77diving 57, 76drinking 79-80Ela Beach 75entertainment 80-1festivals 76food 79-80shopping 81tours 76travel to/from 81-2travel within 82-3Waigani 77

postal services 298pottery 45, 145-6, 198printmaking 44-5PT boats 108Putput 235

QQueen Emma’s house 214

RRabaul 219-23, 220

diving 58, 220Rabaul Nakaia 224radio 40, 283rafting 221, 224Rainforest Habitat 129Ramu River 148Ranongga 274raskols 42, 72, 165, 292,

296rats 51Raun Raun Theatre 157Reef Islands 280refugee detention centre 239Regional Assistance Mission to the

Solomon Islands 13-14, 249religion 40, see also cults, magic

practice, witchcraftancestor worship 36Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201

Rendova 265Rennell 279-81, 279restaurants 65-6, see also individual

locationsRinggi 274ringtail possums 50Robinson, Christopher 115

Rossel (Yela) Island 123Rouna Falls 83Roviana Lagoon 265Ruaniu 260Russell Islands 263

diving 61

Ssafe travel 291-2

diving 325hitching 318raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296

Saidowai village 118Saigara 137sailing 231, 234, 315Sal Island 242Salamaua 136Salemben 147Salvinia molesta 177Samarai Island 115-16Sandaun Province 185-8, 178Sandfly Passage 262Sandline Affair 30, 241Sapeahora 204Savo 262-3sea-kayaking 286Sepik region 175-88

carvings 177, 183, 195, 7East Sepik Province 178-85, 178environmental issues 177initiation rites 197Sandaun Province 185-8, 178

Sepik River 188-99, 8Lower Sepik 197-8, 196-7Middle Sepik 194-7, 196-7planning 189-90tours 181, 193tributaries & lakes 198-9Upper Sepik 193-4

Sepo island 274Seremi village 106Sewa Bay 117shark calling 237sharks 237shopping 298-9Shortland Islands 280Siar Island 145Simbai 149Simbo island 274Simbu Province 161-3Simpson Harbour 219Sinasi Reef 76skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172Skull island 265Skyline Drive 252

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Smart, Rae 303snakes 50, 324snorkelling, see divingSogavare, Manasseh 13Sogeri Rd 83-4Sohano Island 242solo travellers 299Solomon Islands 246-81, 248

Bellona Province 279-81Central Province 261-3, 261culture 33, 247Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1history 22Malaita Province 274-9, 275Rennell 279-81, 279Western Province 263-74, 264

Solomons Peace Memorial Park 258

Somare, Sir Michael 13, 32Songitin eternal flame 188Southern Highlands Province 169-74souvenirs 299, see also artefactsspirit houses 36, 44, 195sports 39, see also cricketStone Dog 265string bags 47, 81, 159, 167, 195Suapmeri 194-5Summer Institute of Linguistics 160sunburn 326surfing 21, 287-8

itineraries 21Kavieng 229Los Negros Island 239Manus Island 239Vanimo 186

Swagup 193

TTabar 238Tabubil 205-8Talasea 226Tambanum 196-7Tami Island 138Tanga Island 238Tangarere 261Tari 173Tavanipupu island 260Tawali 115taxis 318Telefomin 188telephone services 300-1

Tembin 237Temotu Province 280Tenaru 259Teptep 150Tetepare Island 266textiles 47theatre 43-4

Raun Raun Theatre 152Timbunke 196time 301, 350-1toilets 301Tok Pisin 328-30Tonda Wildlife Management Area

207-8Tore, Tony 74tourist information 301tours 319, see also village tours

Amboin 199bird-watching 173-4, 206, 285cultural tours 174, 268, 279cycling tours 236Goroka 158Honiara 253Kavieng 231kayaking 286Kokoda Track 93-5Kwaio people 278Lae 129, 131Madang 143Milne Bay 109, 111Mt Hagen 165-6Mt Wilhelm 162Port Moresby 76Rabaul 221Sepik River 181, 193walking tours 163, 172West New Georgia 264-5wildlife-watching 289WWII sites 221, 253, 265

traditional medicine 326tree kangaroos 50, 150trekking 17, 288-9, see also walking

Black Cat Track 137Bulldog Track 137jungle tracks 289Kokoda Track 91-105Kolombangara 274Ramu River 149

tribal art 191Trobriand Islands 118-23

carvings 122Tsoi Island 234tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270Tufi 107-8

diving 57, 107

Tulagi 262diving 61, 262

turtles 135, 136TV 42-3, 283typhoid fever 323

UUepi 268-9Ukarumpa 161Uluputur 237Upper Ramu Project 161Utupua 280

Vvacations 295vaccinations 320Vanikoro 280Vanimo 185-7Varirata National Park 83Vella Lavella 274Veuru 260village stays 122, 235village tours

Amboin 199Jais Aben 147Madang 143Marovo Lagooon 269Mt Hagen 165Putput 235

Vilu open-air museum 260visas 302-3, see also passportsvolcanoes

Karkar Island 150-1Manam Island 148, 151Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219,

222, 223, 8Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224Savo 262

volunteering 303-4Vonavona Lagoon 265Vulcanology Observatory 220

WWabag 168-9Wagawaga 114Wagu Lagoon 198Wahgi Valley 168Waigani 77Wakunai 244walking 319, see also trekking

Ialibu 172Madang, to 163Marovo Lagoon 268Mt Wilhelm 162Rabaul 224

tours 163, 172Varirata National Park 83

Wamol village 168wantoks 37war memorials

Australian War Memorial (Alotau) 110

Australian war memorial(Popondetta) 106

Cape Wom International Memorial Park 183

Japanese war memorial (Aitape) 187Japanese war memorial (Poha) 259Memorial Gardens 259 US war memorial 252

Waramo 187Waria Valley 137-8Wasi Falls 172Watam 148water 323water hyacinth 177Wau 139-40Wawela 120weather 15

tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270Weathercoast 261weaving 47websites, see internet resourcesweights 283, see also inside front

coverWest New Britain Province 225West New Georgia 263-6Western Highlands Province 163-8Western Province (PNG) 204-8, 202-3

culture 201history 201

Western Province (Solomon Islands) 263-74, 264

Wewak 179-83, 180White Island 242White River Village 251-2Wickham, Dorothy 257wigmen 173wildlife 48-52

books 50, 51wildlife management areas 52

Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146Crater Mountain Wildlife

Management Area 160Kamiali Wildlife Management

Area 136-7Kantobo 172Tonda Wildlife Management Area

207-8wildlife-watching 53, 289Willaumez Peninsula 226windsurfing 289-90witchcraft 109, 116, see also magic

practiceWogamush River 198Wom 198Wombun 198women in PNG 40-1women in Solomon Islands 40-1women travellers 304-5work 305Wuvulu Island 240WWI 26WWII 21, 27-8, see also cemeteries,

Kokoda Track, museums, war memorialsBattle of Milne Bay 88

Battle of Wau 125books 28Bulldog Track 137Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142dive sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106internet resources 27itineraries 21PT boats 108tours 221, 253, 265

WWII sites & relicsAlexishafen 147Buin 245Buka 242Buna 106Cape Moem 183Guadalcanal 259Kiriwina Island 120Kolombangara 274Kokopo 218Matupit Island 223Salamaua 136Talasea 226

YYabob 145Yalaka village 122Yambon 193Yamok 194yams 35, 65, 120Yandina 263Yaws 323Yentchen 195Yessan 193Yip 198Yule Island 89-90

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PAPUA NEW GUINEACENTRAL PROVINCEaccommodation

Loloata Island Resort (Loloata Island) 90

EAST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCEaccommodation

Kabaira Beach Hideaway (Kabaira Bay) 224

Koki Women’s Guesthouse (Jacquinot Bay) 224

Pisiua Guesthouse (Jacquinot Bay) 224

activitiesRapopo Dive (Kokopo)

215 tours

Kabaira Beach Hideaway (Kabaira Bay) 221

EASTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCEaccommodation

PNG National Appropriate Technology Centre (Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park) 160

ENGA PROVINCEaccommodation

Kumul Lodge (Mt Hagen) 169 attractions

Kaip Village Lifestyle Model (Kaip Village) 169

MADANG PROVINCEaccommodation

Anua Negu Lodge (Bogia) 148 CWA Guesthouse (Madang) 143 Kalam Guest House (Simbai) 149 Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge

(Salemben) 1 48 Krangket Island Lodge (Krangket

Island) 145 Siar Island Guesthouse (Siar

Island) 145 Teptep Guesthouse (Teptep) 150 Tugutugu Guesthouse (Karkar

Island) 151 activities

Aquaventures PNG (Jais Aben) 142

MILNE BAY PROVINCEaccommodation

Bweka Village Resort (Trobriand Islands) 121

Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 112 Napatana Lodge (Alotau) 112 Saidowai Guesthouse (Normanby

Island) 118 Ulumani Treetops Lodge

(Wagawaga) 114 Village Birth Attendant Centre

(Trobriand Islands) 121 activities

Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 109

MOROBE PROVINCEaccommodation

Bula Falls Guesthouse (Gwado village) 136

Kamiali Training Centre & Guesthouse (Lababia) 137

Labu Tali guesthouse (Labu Tali village) 135

Lutheran Guesthouse (Lae) 132 Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse

(Lae) 132 Salamaua Guesthouse (Salamaua)

136 Salamaua High School (Salamaua)

136 Tami Guesthouse (Tami Island) 138 Tulip Guesthouse (Bau) 138 Unu Guesthouse (Mt Unu) 138 Wau Ecology Institute (Wau) 139

activitiesMomahi Tours (Lae) 131 Village Development Trust (Lae)

129 Wau Adventures (Wau) 139

NEW IRELAND PROVINCEaccommodation

Island Escapades (Tunung Island) 234

Lissenung Island Resort (Lissenung Island) 232

Malom Guesthouse (Malom village) 236

Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi Boto Island) 234

Nusa Island Retreat (Nusa Lik Island) 232

Panafilla Village Guesthouse (Bol) 236

GreenDex The following attractions, activities, tours and accommodation have been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism. Some places are run locally or by a community (eg a women’s group or church) and profits remain in the community. Some are also unintentionally very ‘green’; they may have no electricity, and grow or catch their own food. Compared to consumption in the West, these places are very economical with resources. We’ve also included ecolodges that are upmarket compared to the local village guesthouse, and offer ecotours (such as bird-watching), which allow communities to make a living from the natural environment, and provide an alternative to selling up to mining and logging companies.

We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content. If you think we’ve omitted someone who should be listed here, or if you disagree with our choices, contact us at www.lonelyplanet.com/contact and set us straight for next time. For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles (Bol) 236

Puroro Guest House (Lelet Plateau) 237

Treehouse Village Resort (Putput) 235

Tsoi Lik Lagoon Guesthouse (Tsoi Island) 234

activitiesAdventures in Paradise Yacht

Charters (Nusa Lik Island) 230

Kavieng Surf Club (Kavieng) 230

Scuba Ventures (Kavieng) 231

ORO PROVINCEactivities

Tufi Dive Resort (Tufi) 108

SEPIK, THEaccommodation

Ambunti Catholic Mission (Ambunti) 194

Ambunti Lodge (Ambunti) 194 Auong Guesthouse (Muschu

Island) 184 Karawari Lodge (Amboin) 199 Toheyo Guesthouse (Wasui

Lagoon) 198 tours

Chris Karis (Wewak) 192 Joseph Konai (Ambunti) 192 Steven Buku (Wewak)

192

SIMBU PROVINCEaccommodation

Betty’s Place (Kegsugl) 163 East Kegsugl Guesthouse (Kegsugl)

163

National Parks Board Huts (Mt Wilhelm) 163

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCEaccommodation

Ambua Lodge (Tari) 174 Kiburu Lodge (Mendi) 171 Pentecostal Guesthouse

(Mendi) 171 Tari Women’s Guesthouse

(Tari) 174 Tubo Eco-Tourism Lodge

(Lake Kutubu) 172 Warili Lodge (Tari) 174

WEST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE accommodation

Walindi Plantation Resort (Kimbe Bay) 227

attractionsMahonia Na Dari Conservation

Centre (Kimbe Bay) 226

WESTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCEaccommodation

Wahgi Guesthouse (Wahgi Valley) 168

toursPNG Eco-Adventure Tours (Mt

Hagen) 165 Trans Niugini Tours

(Mt Hagen) 165

WESTERN PROVINCEaccommodation

Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (Bensbach) 208

Ekame Lodge (Kiunga) 207

SOLOMON ISLANDSCENTRAL PROVINCEactivities

MV Bilikiki (Russell Islands) 263 Tulagi Dive (Tulagi) 262

GUADALCANALaccommodation

Tavanipupu Island Resort (Tavanipupu Island) 260

Tawaihi Island Retreat (Tawaihi Island) 260

MALAITA PROVINCEaccommodation

Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway (Langa Langa Lagoon) 278

WESTERN PROVINCEaccommodation

Fatboys (Mbabanga Island) 272

Matikuri Lodge (Marovo Lagoon) 268

Oravae Cottage (Sepo island) 274

Sanbis Resort (Mbabanga Island) 272

Tetepare Descendants’ Association (Tetepare Island) 266

Uepi Island Resort (Marovo Lagoon) 269

Wilderness Lodge (Marovo Lagoon) 269

Zipolo Habu Resort (Vonavona Lagoon) 265

activitiesDive Gizo (Gizo) 271 Solomon Dive Adventures (Marovo

Lagoon) 267 Uepi Island Resort (Marovo

Lagoon) 267

G r e e n D e x 349

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