DSK, No Headlight '04-ON CRF250X & '05-'07 CRF450X

PN: 12-1452

Installation Manual

Baja Designs • 185 Bosstick Blvd. • San Marcos • CA • 92069

Phone 760.560.2252 • Fax 760.560.0383 • info@bajadesigns.com

www.bajadesigns.com

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

Baja Designs proudly offers a LIFETIME WARRANTY against manufacturer’s defect on all of the products that we manufacture.

These are comprehensive warranties; other than the exclusions below – you’re covered. If your LED or HID bulb burns out, you’re covered. Additionally, cutting off our connector or changing your lenses does not automatically void your warranty.

Exclusions:

Installation errors, abuse, misuse or crash damage. You must be the original owner of the product and be able to supply proof of purchase.

Li-Ion or Li-Po Batteries: carry a 2 year warranty.

NiCad DSK Batteries: carry a 90 day warranty

Dual Sport Kit Switches: carry a 1 year warranty.

Baja Designs manufactures its own products as well as resells products manufactured by others. Baja Designs makes no express or implied warranties on products not manufactured by Baja Designs including without limitation any warranties or merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. We will however, pass on all warranties made by the manufacturer, who has sole responsibility for performing such warranties.

Baja Designs will pay the freight if your product is less than 90 days old, otherwise defective products must be returned to Baja Designs, Inc., freight prepaid. At our option, we will repair or replace items in question and return them at no charge. If the identical product is no longer available we will replace with a similar product of equal value. Baja Designs Inc. will not be responsible for any indirect or consequential damages in connection with defective merchandise.

Indemnification:

Buyer hereby acknowledges off roading, racing and driving at night are dangerous activities and that the products and/or supplies purchased from Baja Designs are used in an inherently dangerous activity that may endanger life and limb; and in no event shall the seller, or seller's heirs and assigns, be held liable for consequential damages, nor shall seller's liability on any claim for damages arising out of or connected with the sale, delivery, or use of purchased products and/or supplies exceed the purchase price of the products and/or supplies.

Customer satisfaction stands at the core of who Baja Designs is as a company. BD gives you a full 30 days to test out your new light and if you are not 100% satisfied with your purchase, you can send it back for an exchange or refund of the purchase price and applicable tax.

Exclusions:

Items purchased through a Baja Designs authorized dealer must be returned through the dealer. Only available on

LED auxiliary lights and product must be in sellable condition at MSRP. Product that has been damaged in any way

after the original purchase date will be excluded from this guarantee.

The stator on the CRF-X’s is wound with two separate lighting coil outputs. One of these outputs will be used to power the headlight exclusively on its own AC circuit. The remaining output charges the battery, which will be used to power the taillight, turn signals, and horn. This kit can also be used with a re-wound or aftermarket stator that is running 100% DC utilizing a Baja Designs regulator/rectifier. You will need to make a few changes during the headlight installation unless they were done at the time of purchase. We will cover these changes in the “headlight” portion of this manual. An installation video can be viewed on our YouTube site.

1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels.

2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight.

3. Taillight Installation: The Baja Designs LED

taillight will be run in conjunction with the stock LED taillight for this installation. Remove the two Phillips head bolts and metal bracket underneath the fender that hold the stock LED taillight into place. (The new taillight will utilize these threaded holes to mount to the fender.) Using the metal bracket as a template (see Photo 1), drill two 5/16” mounting holes through the taillight plastic in the positions shown. Once drilled, use the two stock bolts to attach the taillight to the fender. The metal bracket will no longer be used. Wedge a small flathead screwdriver above the stock taillight to brace the stock LED cluster to help you get the bolts started. See Photo 2. Loosely attach one bolt, then attach the second bolt, then remove

Photo 1

3 ¼”

Photo 2

the bracing screwdriver. Be sure the taillight fender is aligned, and then tighten both bolts. For the forward taillight mount, drill a single ¼” hole first through the center of the fender in the approximate position shown in Photo 3. Then bracing the Baja Designs taillight underside plastic, continue drilling through the taillight plastic. There will be about a 1” gap between them. Locate the countersunk bolt, 1-in. spacer, bezel washer, and Nyloc nut in the parts bag. From the top, insert this bolt, add the spacer between the fender and taillight plastic, and add the washer and nut and tighten. Route the taillight wires forward in the trough between the taillight plastic and the fender. Continue around frame on left side, and then up between the frame and fender. Take your side panel and cut a notch so the cables will fit when you reattach the side panel (Photo 6). (Do not reattach the side panel until later.) Zip-tie the cables. We’ll attach the taillight wires in a following step.

4. Rear Turn Signal Installation: If you purchased the LED turn signals, the rear turn signals came already attached to the Baja Designs taillight. Be sure your exhaust pipe does not impede view of the turn signals. If you purchased the non-LED turn signals, you need to perform the following steps. The rear fender plastic on the CRF is exceptionally thick, allowing for excellent rear turn signal mounting locations. Mark the drill locations as shown in Photo 4. Once marked, Drill a 3/8” hole on each side of the fender and attach the turn signals as shown in Photo 5. Position the holes so the top edges of the turn signal stalks line up with the molded ridge in the fender. Route the left turn signal wires so they pass through the gap left by the side panel as shown in Photos 6 & 7. Route the taillight and right turn signal wires forward as shown in Photo 8.

Photo 3

Photo 4

Drill here

Photo 5

Photo 6

Photo 8

Photo 7

5. Brake Light Switch: The CRF’s use a hydraulic operated switch to activate the brakelight. Installation of this switch requires bleeding the rear brake system. If you do not feel competent performing this task please refer it to a qualified mechanic. An improperly bled brake can lead to rear brake failure. Installation: Remove the banjo-bolt that secures the rear brake line on top of the rear brake master cylinder. Replace this bolt with the provided hydraulic switch as shown in Photo 9 (temporarily lift rubber boot off switch before installing so it can spin). Be sure to retain the upper and lower crush-washers when installing the switch. (You may need to loosen (or remove) the 2 bolts retaining the brake fluid reservoir to the frame to enable installing and tightening the new switch.) Install and tighten switch (then re-tighten 2 retaining bolts, if loosened). Bleeding: Do not begin this process unless you have a fresh bottle of brake fluid. Remove the reservoir cap from the rear brake master cylinder. Put the box end of an 8mm wrench over the bleed nipple, and then install the supplied bleed tubing tightly over the nipple. Position the loop in the hose above the nipple as shown in Photo 10 with the other end of the hose in a container to catch the fluid. Pump the brake several times to build up pressure, then crack the bleed nipple open about a quarter turn keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the system. The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. Do not let the reservoir go dry – continually add fluid as needed. Pump the pedal until there are no air bubbles, then close the nipple. When done, double check that the pedal is firm and works properly.

6. Lights/Horn Control Switch Installation: Install the control switch on the left handlebar next to the grip. The switch has two screws that mate the two halves

Photo 9

Photo 10

Bleed Nipple Container

Bleed Hose

8mm Wrench

together. Note: Install the two rubber pads provided on the back half of the turn signal switch body. Do not over tighten these screws, as too much force can strip the body of the switch. The clutch perch may have to be moved to the right to make room for the switch. Zip-tie the wires along the bottom of the handlebar (so tie-downs can’t crush them) and over the front of the top triple clamp. The handlebar switch controls the lighting/horn functions only. The lower “dot” position will allow your parking lights to turn on when the key switch is turned on. This position will also allow the use of the turn signals, brake light, headlight, and horn. The first light position will turn on your low beam and the top light position on the switch will turn on your high beam. When the high beam is selected the top indicator light will illuminate to remind you the high beam is selected

7. Key Switch Installation: Mount the key switch unit off one of your handlebar clamp bolts or upper triple clamp bolts. Make sure it is easy to reach as this will now function as your kill switch for the bike. Make sure the key switch and wires do not contact any part of the chassis (other than the retaining bolt).

Photo 13

Headlight Low Beam On

Parking Light Position

Headlight High Beam On

NOTE: Main Power Controlled by Key Switch

Turn Signal Selector

Horn Button

High Beam Indicator

* Key Switch = Kill Switch for Ignition and Lights

Run/Lighting Power = ON

Ignition/Lighting = OFF The Key Switch is used to control both ignition and lighting functions. The key switch must always be in the “Ignition” position indicated by the red dot on the Key Switch for the bike to run or the parking lighting to operate. In the “Ignition” position your running light and taillight should turn on and you should be able to operate your turn signals, headlight and horn. This also allows you to start your bike.

Photo 14

8. Middle Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the gray cable with white plastic multi-pin connectors at both ends provided with the kit. Position one of the multi-pin connectors (doesn’t matter which – both ends of the middle harness are identical) so it sits just to the left of the steering head near the black connector from the switch panel assembly. With the handlebars turned fully to the right, route the middle harness down along the left side of the frame. Route the middle harness along the left side of the bike following the stock harness as shown in Photo 15. Cross it over the top of the carburetor and route it along the right side of the airbox. The multi-pin connector should terminate on top of the air box near the battery. We’ll attach the connectors in the following steps.

9. Rear Wiring Harness Installation and Connections:

Remove battery to allow easier cable routing. Locate the rear wiring harness provided with the kit. It has a white plastic 6-

pin connector with several sheathed power leads extending from it. Attach the 6-pin connector from the rear harness to its corresponding mate from the middle harness.

Hang 2 battery wires to left side and we will attach them after re-installing the battery.

First route the brake switch wires (red and blue) above the air box and under the battery bracket. Hang them over to the right side and we will attach later.

Route the remaining turn signal and brake light wires above the air box and below the battery bracket. These should terminate above the rear fender.

Attach the white plastic 3-pin connector from the rear wiring harness to its corresponding mate from the taillight.

Right Rear Turn Signal: If you purchased non-LED turn signals, polarity is unimportant and you can attach the green & black wire pair to the two wires from the right rear turn signal either way. Polarity is important if you purchased the LED turn signal and you must connect the blue wire to the green wire and the green wire to the black wire.

Left Rear Turn Signal: If you purchased non-LED turn signals, polarity is unimportant and you can attach the brown & black wire pair to the two wires from the left rear turn signal either way. Polarity is important if you purchased the LED turn signal and you must attach the blue to the brown wire and the green to the black wire from the left rear turn signal. Be sure bullet connections snap together.

Re-install battery and attach the ring terminal from the fused lead to the positive side of the battery.

Attach the remaining black un-fused ring terminal to the negative side of the battery.

Connect the red & blue wire pair to the brake light switch. Polarity is

unimportant. See Photo 16. The rear wire connections are now completed. Secure your wiring with zip-ties.

10. Kill Function Connector: The kill wires from the Baja Designs wiring harness will interface with the stock wiring harness via the stock kill connector. We will remove two of the stock wires from this connector and replace them with the Baja Designs wires. Note that the stock kill button will no longer function once this step is performed. The kill feature will be incorporated into the Baja Designs Key Switch. If you would prefer to maintain your stock kill button you may skip this step.

Terminal Removal & Reinstallation: Locate the stock black three-wire connector that’s attached to the bracket on the top triple clamp and unplug it. Using a sharp pointed tool or a jewelry screwdriver, remove the black/white and black/green wires from the upper connector half. Do not remove the black/brown wire from this connector.

Photo 17

Locate the black/white and blue/white wire pair from the Baja Designs switch panel wiring. They’ll have the same terminals as the wires you removed from the connector. Insert the Baja Designs wires into the connector. From left to right it is black/white (was black/white), blue/white (was black/green – center wire), and retained black/brown wire. Once the wires are installed, reattach the black connector to it’s corresponding black mate. If you choose, you may now remove the stock kill button by snipping off the stock terminals and pulling the two wires through the factory sheathing.

11. Front Wiring Harness Connections:

Connect the white 6-prong connector to the white 6-prong connector from the middle wiring harness .

Connect the black 9-prong connector to the black 9-prong connector from the handlebar light switch.

Connect the white 6-prong connector to the white 6-prong connector from the ignition switch.

We will connect the rest later.

12. Baja Designs Headlight Installation & Connections: The Baja Designs headlight assembly comes preassembled with the turn signals, horn, flasher & wiring, relay & wiring, ACEWELL wiring, and running light & wiring connections. Attach the white 3-prong relay switch connector to the white 3-prong connector

from the front wiring harness. Attach the white 2-prong flasher switch connector to the white 2-prong

connector from the front wiring harness. Attach the white Honda-style connector from the relay to the blue Honda

connector from the stock wiring harness. Depending on what year your bike is will determine which Honda style connector you will use, male or female.

(08-ON) 2 wires on male plug, 3 wires on female plug. (05-07) 3 wires on male plug, 2 wires on female plug. If you have purchased this kit through a dealer then you will have both male and

female adapters in your kit. If the kit was purchased directly through Baja Designs and the year of your bike was known then the appropriate adapter

would have been pre installed on the relay.

White 3-pin connector Yellow H4 bulb Honda Style

with a yellow and a connector connector black wire only

Photo 18 Attach the 2 bullet connectors from the running light to the corresponding wires on the front wiring harness – they only connect one way.

Attach the 2 wires from the front wiring harness to the horn – polarity is not important.

Attach the headlight to the fork tubes. Turn the steering from side to side to verify that the wiring does not bind or get caught in the steering stops.

If your bike has the factory steering stabilizer you will need to install the plastic headlight extensions in order for the headlight to have adequate clearance.

Photo 19

Photo 20 ACEWELL: All kits now come prewired with a triangular female 3-pin plug which allows you to easily power an Acewell 1550T speedometer/tachometer unit. Contact Baja Designs at 760-560-BAJA for more info. To see the full line of Acewell speedometers visit www.BajaDesigns.com If you’d like to run another Acewell speedometer, GPS Unit or other speedometer, you can cut the connector and splice the corresponding wires based on the chart below: BLACK – GROUND BLUE- SWITCHED HOT GREY – CONSTANT HOT

13. Stock Headlight Installation & Connections:

Horn installation Remove bolt from front brake cable guide and attach horn.

Photo 21

Front Turn Signals Installation & Connections: The front turn signals and brackets are separate in the kit. First attach the brackets to the turn signals with the nuts provided in the kit. Remove the upper triple clamp bolts on the left side. Place the bolts through the

left turn signal bracket and attach to the upper triple clamp. Repeat above step for the right side.

Photo 22

Wire connections The front harness has the turn signal wiring. With incandescent turn signals

polarity is not important and you can attach the front left-side blue & green wires to either of the brown and black wires. If you purchased the upgraded LED turn signals the polarity is important and you must connect the front left-side blue wire to brown wire and left-side green wire to black wire. The same is true for the right side and the LED requires you connect the front right-side green wire to black wire and front right-side blue wire to green wire.

Attach flasher above the headlight in the factory connection with the stock

screw.

Photo 23 The kit comes with 2-sided tape. Attach the 2-sided tape to the relay, peel

off the wax paper from the tape, and stick the relay in the left corner above the headlight. Secure the wires with the factory wire stay.

Photo 24

Attach the light green 3-prong Honda style connector from the Baja Designs relay to the stock Honda factory blue connector from the bike.

Attach the other half of the stock Honda factory blue connector from the stock headlight to the Baja Designs relay.

Attach the white 2-prong connector from the Baja Designs flasher to the white 2-prong connector from the front harness.

Attach the white 3-prong connector from the Baja Designs Relay to the white 3-prong connector from the front harness.

Photo 25

Attach the 2 wires from the front harness to the horn – polarity is not important.

The 2 remaining bullet connectors will not be used because they are for a running light you do not have. Note: Headlight connections when using a Re-wound stator or aftermarket stator that is running through a DC regulator/rectifier. If previously installed, remove the relay and related connections from the

headlight and plug the DC Headlight Adapter on to the bulb and the White 3-prong connector from the front harness.

If you are using the Baja Designs Headlight or the Factory Honda headlight you will use the appropriate adapter shown below. If you did not request the adapter at the time of purchase, contact Baja Designs.

Photo 26

Baja Designs Headlight Adapter

Photo 27 Factory Honda Headlight Adapter

Replace tank, seat, and side panels.

Wrapping It Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured. Double-check the photos and sketches with regards to wire routing. Make sure the wires do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, or can be crushed by the seat, tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip-ties provided to securely fasten the wires. Any unwanted movement or chafing suggests early failure when off the road. Make sure all the silicone rubber connector boots and the connectors are pushed firmly together and no bare metal is exposed. Install the seat, tank, and side panels, go down to your local DMV to register for street legal, and then go roost! Removing and reinstalling the kit: To remove the kit, simply unplug the connector that mates the middle harness to the rear harness and the connector that joins the battery leads to the rear harness. Remove the “dual sport rear fender” with the rear harness still attached to it and reinstall a stock fender (not supplied). The middle harness stays on the bike. The front signals can unbolt and unplug individually.

TROUBLESHOOTING Nothing Happens When You Turn the Power Switch ON. • Fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the frame or another wire. • Multi-pin connector not properly connected. • Battery connection poor. Make sure the connectors are fully seated. • Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter. • Poor connection at the blue wire junction and the fuse lead. The Turn Signals Won't Come On, or Won't Flash • Check turn signal wire connections. • Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check instructions. • Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals won't flash, or will flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery. The Brake Light Won't Come On • The rear brake system is not properly bled. • Maybe it's ON already. Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is already ON so there is no increase in light intensity when you activate the brake. • Short the two leads together at the brake switch. If the brakelight comes on, either the brake switch is defective, or the brake system is not properly bled. Everything Works Except the Headlight • The headlight selector switch must be on low beam or high beam. • Make sure the 3-prong connector is correctly plugged in and that the wires leading to it are plugged into the harness. • Does the high beam indicator come on when the bike is running and high beam selected? If so, the headlight bulb is burned out or defective. If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at (760) 560 2252. Maintenance: Occasionally examine the wires in your lighting system to make sure they are not chaffing or binding so that they don't cause you a problem when you're out on the trail or on the road. A well routed, properly secured wiring system is key to getting long life and trouble-free performance from your conversion kit.