Picasso and A Coruña: A Guide to Picasso in A Coruña
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06 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 01 02 03 05 04 School of Fine Arts. For three years this young Andalusian boy attended both the local high school and the art school, where he was introduced to the study of art and was taught mainly by his father, Román Navarro and Isidoro Brocos. It was in A Coruña that he began to take a profound interest in themes such as doves, bulls or fauns, which would become iconic later on in his career. It was also the city where the artist who at the time signed his paintings ‘P. Ruiz’ would create what are today considered his early masterpieces, including La muchacha de los pies descalzos (Girl with the Bare Feet) or the portrait of his first patron Ramón Pérez Costales; works that travelled from studio to studio and would remain with him until his death. A Coruña was also the location of his first two exhibitions, which were held in the centrally-located Calle Real in 1895. The first of these received a review in the daily La Voz de Galicia that ended on a premonitory note, “Continue in this fashion and there can be no doubt that greatness and glory lie ahead”. And so it was. Picasso left A Coruña with several masterpieces, an academic legacy and a heavy heart: five members of the family came to the city, but only four left in April 1895. His sister Conchita died of diphtheria in January that same year. Picasso’s first daughter, born in 1949, was named Conchita. Picasso and A Coruña: the birth of an artist/ A Guide to Picasso in A Coruña/ The time Picasso spent in A Coruña is the least-known period in his life, despite the considerable importance the Malaga-born artist himself placed on it; indeed, on several occasions he termed it as being even more significant than his widely-renowned Pink and Rose periods, as recorded by one of his finest biographers, John Richardson. Picasso completed more than 200 works during the time he spent in A Coruña, a number of which can today be admired in some of the world’s leading museums dedicated to this artist (Paris, Barcelona and Malaga). Others form part of private collections, such as the Retrato de Modesto Castilla vestido de moro (Portrait of Modesto Castilla Dressed as a Moor) which sold at auction in 2012 for 2.6 million euros, making it the most expensive work by a child – Picasso painted it at the age of just 13 - ever sold. The start of this period dates back to October 1891, when Pablo Ruiz Picasso, aged 9, his sisters Conchita and Lola and his mother María moved from their home town of Malaga to Galicia, where the head of the household, José Ruiz Blasco, had been appointed a teacher at A Coruña’s Provincial Picasso’s House-Museum/ Calle Payo Gómez, 14 The second floor flat at 14, Payo Gómez Street was home to the Ruiz Picasso family throughout the five years they spent in Galicia. Built in the style that is typical in A Coruña, the building features the traditional gallery windows and the original structure has been maintained. In this flat, A Coruña City Council has recreated a 19th century home which includes reproductions of the works completed in A Coruña by Picasso and his father, as well as an etching by the former that is contemporary with Guernica. The ground floor of the building houses a reception area including a gift shop, a touch screen with full details of Picasso’s time in A Coruña and two period photographs. Eusebio da Guarda Secondary School/ Plaza de Pontevedra Eusebio da Guarda, today a state secondary school, is where Picasso attended senior school, albeit with poor results, and also where he studied Fine Arts, at which he excelled. On the first floor of this building, the Malaga-born artist attended lessons taught by artists including his father, Román Navarro, Isidoro Brocos or Amorós y Botella. Pontevedra Square/ In Picasso’s time this square was made of sand and stone, and it was here that Picasso would play at bullfighting with friends such as Antonio Pardo Reguera, Constantino Sardina or Jesús Salgado. It also featured a fountain where the Ruiz Picasso family’s maid would make frequent trips to collect water for domestic use. Riazor and Orzán Beaches/ According to one of his major biographers, John Richardson, Riazor Beach was where Picasso first discovered feminine nudity. It happened when he was playing close to the bathing huts that once lined the beach, where small rowing boats could also be found, and which Pablo Picasso sketched. He also completed an oil painting of Orzán Beach. San Andrés Chapel/ Calle San Andrés, 32 The rebuilt Neo-Romanesque Chapel of San Andrés was consecrated for public worship in May 1890. The interior features seven sculptures by Brocos, who taught Pablo Picasso at the School of Fine Arts. Just a few metres from the chapel stands the Guild of Master Craftsmen, where Picasso attended dance lessons. Real Street/ In February 1895, No. 20, Calle Real was a furniture store, but it was also the venue for Picasso’s very first exhibition. It received two excellent reviews in the press. It was followed in March that same year by a second exhibition, held in the same street, but this time at No. 54. It featured the work entitled Man in Cap, which today can be seen at the Picasso Museum in Paris. San Carlos Gardens/ In A Coruña, Picasso learned about the story of Lady Hester Stanhope, the mistress of Sir John Moore, who died in A Coruña in 1809 and was buried in these gardens. He was so enthralled by it that he vowed to visit England to find out more. In fact, his first visit to Paris (1900) was initially intended merely as a stopover before travelling on to London. However, his plans later changed. Pablo Picasso School of Art and Design/ Calle Pelamios, 2 This centre continued the work initiated by the School of Fine Arts. A walk along its corridors allows visitors to admire several of the plaster casts created by Picasso during the three years he studied in A Coruña, including a faun. The Malaga-born artist’s school records are on display in the hall. San Amaro Cemetery/ Calle Orillamar, s/n Conchita, Pablo’s younger sister, died from diphtheria on 10th January 1895. She was buried two days later in the general cemetery (today known as San Amaro), in section one of the children’s area. This cemetery is also the final resting place of Costales, Brocos, Navarro and Gumersindo Pardo Reguera. Tower of Hercules/ Picasso would take long walks from his home to the Tower of Hercules, the lighthouse declared a World Heritage Site in 2009 and the subject of one of the artist’s oil paintings. Sketches of the tower also featured in his notebooks on A Coruña and in one of his feuilletons, where he nicknamed the lighthouse “the caramel tower”. Santa Margarita Park/ Picasso’s oil painting of Santa Margarita Hill features a mill presiding over the landscape. It dates back to the year he left the city, 1895. Today, the park boasts a restored mill similar to the one he painted. Juan Flórez Street/ In Picasso’s days this street was known as Camino Nuevo. In one of his notebooks Pablo drew the house on this street where the churro maker lived. Today Juan Flórez is one of the city’s liveliest shopping streets. The Bullring/ (no longer standing) The former bullring, which could hold up to 10,000 spectators, stood on a site at the junction between Calle Médico Rodríguez and Avenida de Finisterre. Picasso attended several bullfights and made several sketches from life. San Roque da Fora/ Paseo Marítimo Picasso drew this site in one of his notebooks on A Coruña, showing the home of an agricultural and livestock farmer. Today a section of the city’s sea promenade runs through the district known as San Roque, which no longer conserves any of its traditional buildings. Pérez Costales House/ (no longer standing) Doctor Pérez Costales, Picasso’s first patron, and his family lived in a mansion whose main facade was situated at 12, Teresa Herrera Street whilst the rear was located at 11, Payo Gómez Street. Pablo painted two rooms of this house. Méndez Núñez Gardens/ The Ruiz Picasso family would often visit Méndez Núñez Gardens. On their return from a walk there one day, Pablo’s father observed the precision with which his son had completed the legs on one of his drawings of doves. José, whose sight was failing, cannily decided to hand over his palette and brushes to Pablo. Calle Real Pharmacy/ Calle Real, 92 No. 92 is the site of the pharmacy that was once run by Gumersindo Pardo Reguera, who in addition to being a painter, was also a source of inspiration for Picasso, a frequent visitor due to his friendship with Gumersindo’s son, Antonio. There is still a pharmacy located at this site today. Rosalía de Castro Theatre/ Calle Riego de Agua, 37 Pablo attended performances of plays by Echegaray here, which at the time was known as the Teatro Principal. Opposite the theatre stands La Gran Antilla cake and confectionary shop, which was already in business when Picasso was a boy. A Coruña Circus/ (no longer standing) Picasso and his father attended a political rally held at the Circo Coruñés (A Coruña Circus), and probably circus performances as well. This venue stood on the site of the current Port Authority of A Coruña offices. La Marina/ Marina Avenue When the Galician journalist Olano visited Picasso in France in the 1960s, the artist asked him about A Coruña: “I imagine a lot of building work has gone on. Have they destroyed the galleries? Or did they have enough sense and taste to conserve them?” The galleries were and continue to be one of the city’s architectural hallmarks. The Picasso Trail/Major sites/ Payo Gómez, 14 Ground and 2nd floor 15004 A Coruña Tel.: +34 981 189 854 Admission free/ Opening hours/ Tuesday to Saturday/ 10.30 a.m. – 2 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. – 8 p.m./ Sundays and Public Holidays/ 10.30 a.m.-2 p.m./ Closed/ Mondays/ The Picasso Trail/Secondary sites/ I imagine a lot of building work has gone on Have they destroyed the galleries? Or did they have enough sense and taste to conserve them? Pablo Picasso Review of Picasso’s first exhibition published in La Voz de Galicia (21.2.1895). Review of Picasso’s first exhibition published in Diario de Galicia (22.2.1895). Picasso aged 15. Musée Picasso. Paris. Picasso in 1970, explaining how to peel gooseneck barnacles. Image file. Antonio D. Olano. The Casa Picasso Gift Shop. Photograph: Nacho Romero. Eusebio da Guarda Secondary School in the late 19th century. ARG. The School Square, early 20th century. AMC. “Orzán” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895. “San Andrés” by Brocos, one of Picasso’s teachers. Real Street still boasts various buildings dating back to the period Picasso lived in the city. San Carlos Gardens today. Facade of the Pablo Picasso School of Art. The children’s area in San Amaro where Conchita was buried. “Tower of Hercules” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895. “Santa Margarita Hill” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895. “Main facade of a house in the suburbs” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894. Drawn on Camino Nuevo. “Bullfight” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894. “Farmstead” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894. Drawn in San Roque. Two rooms of the Pérez Costales family home by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895. Méndez Núñez Gardens in the early 20th century. Pardo Reguera’s pharmacy, in the early 20th century. Rosalía Theatre, the former Teatro Principal The Circo Coruñés, c.1895. Image file. J.L. Cabo. Marina Avenue today. Collaborating organization/ #corunarocks www.turismocoruna.com
Transcript of Picasso and A Coruña: A Guide to Picasso in A Coruña
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School of Fine Arts. For three years this young Andalusian boy attended both the local high school and the art school, where he was introduced to the study of art and was taught mainly by his father, Román Navarro and Isidoro Brocos.
It was in A Coruña that he began to take a profound interest in themes such as doves, bulls or fauns, which would become iconic later on in his career. It was also the city where the artist who at the time signed his paintings ‘P. Ruiz’ would create what are today considered his early masterpieces, including La muchacha de los pies descalzos (Girl with the Bare Feet) or the portrait of his fi rst patron Ramón Pérez Costales; works that travelled from studio to studio and would remain with him until his death. A Coruña was also the location of his fi rst two exhibitions, which were held in the centrally-located Calle Real in 1895. The fi rst of these received a review in the daily La Voz de Galicia that ended on a premonitory note, “Continue in this fashion and there can be no doubt that greatness and glory lie ahead”. And so it was.
Picasso left A Coruña with several masterpieces, an academic legacy and a heavy heart: fi ve members of the family came to the city, but only four left in April 1895. His sister Conchita died of diphtheria in January that same year. Picasso’s fi rst daughter, born in 1949, was named Conchita.
Picasso and A Coruña: the birth of an artist/
A Guide to Picasso in A Coruña/
The time Picasso spent in A Coruña is the least-known period in his life, despite the considerable importance the Malaga-born artist himself placed on it; indeed, on several occasions he termed it as being even more signifi cant than his widely-renowned Pink and Rose periods, as recorded by one of his fi nest biographers, John Richardson.
Picasso completed more than 200 works during the time he spent in A Coruña, a number of which can today be admired in some of the world’s leading museums dedicated to this artist (Paris, Barcelona and Malaga). Others form part of private collections, such as the Retrato de Modesto Castilla vestido de moro (Portrait of Modesto Castilla Dressed as a Moor) which sold at auction in 2012 for 2.6 million euros, making it the most expensive work by a child – Picasso painted it at the age of just 13 - ever sold.
The start of this period dates back to October 1891, when Pablo Ruiz Picasso, aged 9, his sisters Conchita and Lola and his mother María moved from their home town of Malaga to Galicia, where the head of the household, José Ruiz Blasco, had been appointed a teacher at A Coruña’s Provincial
Picasso’s House-Museum/Calle Payo Gómez, 14
The second fl oor fl at at 14, Payo Gómez Street was home to the Ruiz Picasso family throughout the fi ve years they spent in Galicia. Built in the style that is typical in A Coruña, the building features the traditional gallery windows and the original structure has been maintained. In this fl at, A Coruña City Council has recreated a 19th century home which includes reproductions of the works completed in A Coruña by Picasso and his father, as well as an etching by the former that is contemporary with Guernica. The ground fl oor of the building houses a reception area including a gift shop, a touch screen with full details of Picasso’s time in A Coruña and two period photographs.
Eusebio da Guarda Secondary School/ Plaza de Pontevedra
Eusebio da Guarda, today a state secondary school, is where Picasso attended senior school, albeit with poor results, and also where he studied Fine Arts, at which he excelled. On the fi rst fl oor of this building, the Malaga-born artist attended lessons taught by artists including his father, Román Navarro, Isidoro Brocos or Amorós y Botella.
Pontevedra Square/
In Picasso’s time this square was made of sand and stone, and it was here that Picasso would play at bullfi ghting with friends such as Antonio Pardo Reguera, Constantino Sardina or Jesús Salgado. It also featured a fountain where the Ruiz Picasso family’s maid would make frequent trips to collect water for domestic use.
Riazor and Orzán Beaches/
According to one of his major biographers, John Richardson, Riazor Beach was where Picasso fi rst discovered feminine nudity. It happened when he was playing close to the bathing huts that once lined the beach, where small rowing boats could also be found, and which Pablo Picasso sketched. He also completed an oil painting of Orzán Beach.
San Andrés Chapel/Calle San Andrés, 32
The rebuilt Neo-Romanesque Chapel of San Andrés was consecrated for public worship in May 1890. The interior features seven sculptures by Brocos, who taught Pablo Picasso at the School of Fine Arts. Just a few metres from the chapel stands the Guild of Master Craftsmen, where Picasso attended dance lessons.
Real Street/
In February 1895, No. 20, Calle Real was a furniture store, but it was also the venue for Picasso’s very fi rst exhibition. It received two excellent reviews in the press. It was followed in March that same year by a second exhibition, held in the same street, but this time at No. 54. It featured the work entitled Man in Cap, which today can be seen at the Picasso Museum in Paris.
San Carlos Gardens/
In A Coruña, Picasso learned about the story of Lady Hester Stanhope, the mistress of Sir John Moore, who died in A Coruña in 1809 and was buried in these gardens. He was so enthralled by it that he vowed to visit England to fi nd out more. In fact, his fi rst visit to Paris (1900) was initially intended merely as a stopover before travelling on to London. However, his plans later changed.
Pablo Picasso School of Art and Design/Calle Pelamios, 2
This centre continued the work initiated by the School of Fine Arts. A walk along its corridors allows visitors to admire several of the plaster casts created by Picasso during the three years he studied in A Coruña, including a faun. The Malaga-born artist’s school records are on display in the hall.
San Amaro Cemetery/Calle Orillamar, s/n
Conchita, Pablo’s younger sister, died from diphtheria on 10th January 1895. She was buried two days later in the general cemetery (today known as San Amaro), in section one of the children’s area. This cemetery is also the fi nal resting place of Costales, Brocos, Navarro and Gumersindo Pardo Reguera.
Tower of Hercules/
Picasso would take long walks from his home to the Tower of Hercules, the lighthouse declared a World Heritage Site in 2009 and the subject of one of the artist’s oil paintings. Sketches of the tower also featured in his notebooks on A Coruña and in one of his feuilletons, where he nicknamed the lighthouse “the caramel tower”.
Santa Margarita Park/
Picasso’s oil painting of Santa Margarita Hill features a mill presiding over the landscape. It dates back to the year he left the city, 1895. Today, the park boasts a restored mill similar to the one he painted.
Juan Flórez Street/
In Picasso’s days this street was known as Camino Nuevo. In one of his notebooks Pablo drew the house on this street where the churro maker lived. Today Juan Flórez is one of the city’s liveliest shopping streets.
The Bullring/(no longer standing)
The former bullring, which could hold up to 10,000 spectators, stood on a site at the junction between Calle Médico Rodríguez and Avenida de Finisterre. Picasso attended several bullfi ghts and made several sketches from life.
San Roque da Fora/Paseo Marítimo
Picasso drew this site in one of his notebooks on A Coruña, showing the home of an agricultural and livestock farmer. Today a section of the city’s sea promenade runs through the district known as San Roque, which no longer conserves any of its traditional buildings.
Pérez Costales House/ (no longer standing)
Doctor Pérez Costales, Picasso’s fi rst patron, and his family lived in a mansion whose main facade was situated at 12, Teresa Herrera Street whilst the rear was located at 11, Payo Gómez Street. Pablo painted two rooms of this house.
Méndez Núñez Gardens/
The Ruiz Picasso family would often visit Méndez Núñez Gardens. On their return from a walk there one day, Pablo’s father observed the precision with which his son had completed the legs on one of his drawings of doves. José, whose sight was failing, cannily decided to hand over his palette and brushes to Pablo.
Calle Real Pharmacy/Calle Real, 92
No. 92 is the site of the pharmacy that was once run by Gumersindo Pardo Reguera, who in addition to being a painter, was also a source of inspiration for Picasso, a frequent visitor due to his friendship with Gumersindo’s son, Antonio. There is still a pharmacy located at this site today.
Rosalía de Castro Theatre/Calle Riego de Agua, 37
Pablo attended performances of plays by Echegaray here, which at the time was known as the Teatro Principal. Opposite the theatre stands La Gran Antilla cake and confectionary shop, which was already in business when Picasso was a boy.
A Coruña Circus/(no longer standing)
Picasso and his father attended a political rally held at the Circo Coruñés (A Coruña Circus), and probably circus performances as well. This venue stood on the site of the current Port Authority of A Coruña o¥ ces.
La Marina/Marina Avenue
When the Galician journalist Olano visited Picasso in France in the 1960s, the artist asked him about A Coruña: “I imagine a lot of building work has gone on. Have they destroyed the galleries? Or did they have enough sense and taste to conserve them?” The galleries were and continue to be one of the city’s architectural hallmarks.
The Picasso Trail/Major sites/
Payo Gómez, 14 Ground and 2nd fl oor15004 A CoruñaTel.: +34 981 189 854
Admission free/
Opening hours/Tuesday to Saturday/ 10.30 a.m. – 2 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. – 8 p.m./Sundays and Public Holidays/ 10.30 a.m.-2 p.m./Closed/ Mondays/
The Picasso Trail/Secondary sites/
I imagine a lot of building work has gone on Have they destroyed the galleries? Or did they have enough sense and taste to conserve them?
Pablo Picasso
Review of Picasso’s fi rst exhibition published in La Voz de Galicia (21.2.1895).
Review of Picasso’s fi rst exhibition published in Diario de Galicia (22.2.1895).
Picasso aged 15. Musée Picasso. Paris.
Picasso in 1970, explaining how to peel gooseneck barnacles. Image fi le. Antonio D. Olano.
The Casa Picasso Gift Shop. Photograph: Nacho Romero.
Eusebio da Guarda Secondary School in the late 19th century. ARG.
The School Square, early 20th century. AMC.
“Orzán” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895. “San Andrés” by Brocos, one of Picasso’s teachers.
Real Street still boasts various buildings dating back to the period
Picasso lived in the city.
San Carlos Gardens today. Facade of the Pablo Picasso School of Art.
The children’s area in San Amaro where Conchita was buried.
“Tower of Hercules” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
“Santa Margarita Hill” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
“Main facade of a house in the suburbs” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894.
Drawn on Camino Nuevo.
“Bullfi ght” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894.
“Farmstead” by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894. Drawn in San Roque.
Two rooms of the Pérez Costales family home by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
Méndez Núñez Gardens in the early 20th century.
Pardo Reguera’s pharmacy, in the early 20th century.
Rosalía Theatre, the former Teatro Principal
The Circo Coruñés, c.1895. Image fi le. J.L. Cabo.
Marina Avenue today.
Collaborating organization/
#corunarocks www.turismocoruna.com
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PASEO MARÍTIMO
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Playa del Orzán
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Plaza de Lugo
JUANA DE VEGA
PAYO GÓMEZ
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PADRE FEIJOÓ
TERESA HERRERA
FRANCISCO MARIÑO ROSALÍA DE CASTRO Plaza de Galicia
ARZOBISPO LAGO
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FEDERICO TAPIA
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Plaza de España
POLÍGONO DE ADORMIDERAS
PARQUE DE LA TORRE
Plaza de Pontevedra
Sites on the Picasso in A Coruña Trail
Former sites
Picasso House-Museum
Tourism Oª ces
Monuments and museums
Pharmacies
Taxis ranks
Police
Customs
Currency exchange. Bank
Post Oª ce
Bicycle hire
Bicycle land
Picasso’s House-Museum/
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Eusebio da Guarda Secondary School/
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Pontevedra Square/
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Riazor and Orzán Beaches/
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San Andrés Chapel/
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Real Street/
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San Carlos Gardens/
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Pablo Picasso School of Art and Design/
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San Amaro Cemetery/
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Tower of Hercules/
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Santa Margarita Park/
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Juan Flórez Street/
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The Bullring/
San Roque da Fora/
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Pérez Costales House/
Méndez Núñez Gardens/
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Calle Real Pharmacy/
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Rosalía de Castro Theatre/
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A Coruña Circus/
La Marina/
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Torso by Picasso. A Coruña, 1892-93.
Bearded Old Man with Stick by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
Girl with Bare Feet by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
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Man in Cap by Picasso. A Coruña, 1895.
All reproductions of Picasso’s works of art and photographs have been authorised by © Sucesión Pablo Picasso, VEGAP, Madrid, 2015.
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Cover/ Self-portrait dressed as a sailor aged 12 or 13 by Picasso. A Coruña, 1894.
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