Physics of surfing. videos Science of Big Waves (KQED) Science of Big Waves Garrett McNamara w/...
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Transcript of Physics of surfing. videos Science of Big Waves (KQED) Science of Big Waves Garrett McNamara w/...
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Physics of surfing
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videos
• Science of Big Waves (KQED)• Garrett McNamara w/ GoPro, 90’+• Teahupoo raw 2013
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The energy of a wave travels ahead but the water itself does not
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Why are there consistently bigger waves in the Pacific?
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Factors determining wave power:wind v, wind duration, and fetch
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Why are the conditions so different?
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Ground swell vs. wind swell
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Seafloor determines wave (shape)
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Wave energy consolidates due to DIFFRACTION
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To what depth would a seasick scuba diver have to go for relief?
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Breakers formIn roughly ½ of the wavelength. So if there is a longer period, you have bigger waves.
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What is shown here?
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So what are ideal surf conditions?
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So what are ideal surf conditions?
• Wind: off-shore, not too strong
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So what are ideal surf conditions?
• Wind: off-shore, not too strong• Period: long (ground swell)
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So what are ideal surf conditions?
• Wind: off-shore, not too strong• Period: long (ground swell)• Tide: dependent on particular break location
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So what are ideal surf conditions?
• Wind: off-shore, not too strong• Period: long (ground swell)• Tide: dependent on particular break location• Substrate: sudden rise, reef, often a point
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> 1 ton per 1 m3
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Forces in balance while riding
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Useful sites
• Magic Seaweed• Surf-forecast.com
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Other types of waves
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CAPILLARY WAVES
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A seiche is a standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed body of water.
Seiches have been observed on lakes, reservoirs, swimming pools, bays, harbors and seas.
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A tsunami (at one time incorrectly referred to as a tidal wave), is a series of water waves caused by the displacement of a large volume of a body of water, usually an ocean.
Created by: Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and other underwater explosions, landslides glacier calvings and meteorite ocean impacts
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2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami - Indonesia -
35 meters high on shore - 176,000 fatalities
Diffracted around world, even to RI
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Tsunami videos Japan 2011-raw: video Japan 2011: National Geographic Tsunami 101: National Geographic
Cartoon overview of tsunami: http://www.penmachine.com/podcast/audio/Entries/2008/3/5_Tsunami_video_from_VFS.html
2 interactives of 2004 tsunami:http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/tsunami/
See 1st chapters of America’s Tsunami: Are We Next? How Stuff Works.com
2004 first waves: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/27966-assignment-discovery-first-waves-of-2004-tsunami-video.htm How the 2004 tsunami happened:
http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/27965-assignment-discovery-how-the-2004-tsunami-happened-video.htm 2004 Plate shift: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/14049-tsunami-2004-indian-ocean-plate-shift-video.htm 2004 teletsunami, India: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/27976-assignment-discovery-teletsunami-video.htm Pacific Warning System: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/27978-assignment-discovery-pacific-warning-system-video.htm Tsunami warning system:
http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/29454-assignment-discovery-tsunami-warning-system-video.htm Mega Tsunami: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/27977-assignment-discovery-mega-tsunami-video.htm
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Megatsunami videos
• Alaska• Deep Impact• Could RI be hit tomorrow? • La Palma, Canary Islands (no sound)
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Celerity (another name for speed)
C = L/T L = wavelength (m)
C = 1.25√L d = depth (m)
C = 1.56 T C = celerity (m/s)
C = √gd = 3.1√d T = period (s)
Wind Waves (deep) Seismic Waves (shallow)
Period ≈ 20 seconds Period ≈ 20 minutes
L to ≈ 600 m L to ≈ 200 km
So C can reach 112 km/hr So C can reach 760 km/hr