Physics of Rock ClimbingOpen Questions

Dave CusterES.255

Feb 21, 2006

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 2

Overview

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 3

Safety

• Component approach• System approach • Social/Organization approach• Personal approach• SP.255 approach

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 4

Question Beggars

• Accidents:• Innovation: The equipment gets “better”• Demographics: Age, latitude…• Behavior: How people climb • Related sports & occupations:• Marketing:• Litigation:• Standards & Standardization:

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 5

The Answer Mill

• Modeling• Experiment• Simmering

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 6

Modeling

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 7

Classification of Qs

• System components• Systems & interactions• Use & habits

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 8

System Components• Ice axes—multiple uses perhaps deserve multiple standards• EAS—standards & education• Ropes—waterproofing, middle marker, sharp edge resistance, &

abrasion resistance• Aid Hooks—strength standard• Belay/rappel devices—standards, usage, & performance measures• Cams—new axel configuration analysis• Ice screws—build a better ice screw & testing/standardization• Bolts—warm, wet, & salty + sustainability• Pads—use & standards• Crampons—snow ball effect• Nuts• Slings & draws• Harnesses

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 9

Systems and Interactions

• Crampon + boot• Rappel/belay device + rope (+user)• Carabiner + rope (frequency, radius of

curvature, standards, education)• Rappel/belay device + heat• Via ferrata• Artificial climbing walls

Feb 21, 2006 SP.255 Open Questions Talk 10

System Example: Via Ferrata

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 11

VF Outcomes

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 12

Use and Habits

• Official line vs. actual use (e.g. grigri)• Belay methods• Bouldering pads• Lead climbing decision making

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 13

Use & Habits Examples

• DAV work on– Gym belaying– Avalanche awareness– Falling over

Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 14

The Shape of Answers

• Curriculum• Standards• Better equipment• Better habits and equipment use• Information

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ES.255 Physics of Rock ClimbingSpring 2006

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