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Functionalingredients
EMULMETIK™BIOPHILIC™AMISOL™ SOFTHELIOFEEL™
Phospholipid-based emulsifiers
Bio-compatible ingredients-Active formulas -High tolerance
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Emulmetik™ are natural lecithins and phospholipids with various
phosphatidylcholine contents. Used as co-emulsifiers, wetting
agents or active ingredients, they improve all types of formulation
with a unique sensorial and natural approach.
PHOSPHOLIPIDS AS NATURAL EMULSIFIERSPolar lipids and above all phospholipids are essential constituents of the cellular
membrane of all living organisms. Organized in bi-layers, they form a selective and
protective barrier which regulates cell life.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics extracts phospholipids from various vegetable sources to
provide the cosmetic industry with natural and biocompatible emulsifying molecules
to formulate O/W emulsions.
Phospholipids (including phosphatidylcholine) are long molecules designed by nature
with a hydrophilic head and two lipophilic tails. This amphiphilic character is responsible
for their emulsifying properties.
When used as co-emulsifiers in combination with other emulsifiers or molecules with high HLB, their emulsifying properties are
enhanced.
When used in make-up, the pigments bind to the polar group of phospholipids and are thus dispersed in the oil phase, while avoiding
pigment aggregation. This property is accompanied by an interesting decrease in viscosity for example during the pouring of lipstick.
Under specific conditions, they can also form liposomes. Liposomes are mainly used as delivery systems to encapsulate both water-
soluble and oil-soluble compounds in a skin-compatible structure, which facilitates the penetration and helps active ingredients to
reach selected targets.
100% ACTIVE FORMULASPhospholipids also have specific biological activities. As natural skin-identical ingredients, they have a high affinity to the skin
and therefore are diffused through the cutaneous layers easily. They are important source of essential fatty acids to keep the
skin supple. They form a protective and restructuring film on the skin’s surface which prevents the water loss while increasing the
hydration of the stratum corneum, and acts as a delivery system for a continuous and long-lasting effect.
The base of the formulation is therefore also an entire active part of the formulation.
Phospholipids combine technological function and skin treating properties.
EMULMETIK™ 100* 300 320 900 930 950
INCI name Lecithin LecithinHydrogenated
LecithinLecithin Lecithin
HydrogenatedLecithin
Phospholipidsand glycolipids
60% 97% 97% 97% 97% 97%
Phosphatidylcholine 12% 23% 23% 50% 95% 97%
Technical function
MoisturizerWetting agent
Sensorial adjuster
Co-emulsifierStabilizing agentWetting agent
Co-emulsifierStabilizing agentWetting agent
Liposomeprecursor
Liposomeprecursor
Liposomeprecursor
Ecocert status Registered
* Exists in organic version: ORGANIC LECITHIN
Biophilic™ is a patented natural lamellar O/W system based on
the emulsifying properties of phospholipids combined with other
vegetable lipids. For a sophisticated skin feel.
THE PHOSPHOLIPID TOUCH
Lamellar networkWhen combined with other fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the emulsifying properties
of phospholipids are improved. They first form monolayers around oil droplets, and
progressively, a bilayer network is formed in the aqueous phase to create a lamellar
structure.
The rigid lamellar network formed with Biophilic™ yields very stable creams capable
of carrying up to 30% by weight of oil: oil-drops are stabilized in the layers of the
emulsion.
It is also able to entrap active ingredients which are continuously released as the cream
penetrates the skin.
The “Second Skin” conceptThe lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect
affinity. It acts as a “second skin” and therefore helps to restore the cutaneous barrier
of damaged skin. The emulsion melts on the skin during the application and forms a
restructuring film which reduces TEWL.
Rich and sophisticated textureBiophilic™ is particularly recommended to create rich textures, since the fatty alcohol
and the palmitic acid provide consistency and nourishing sensation.
The Biophilic™ range contains two references with different lecithins.
- The hydrogenated lecithin in Biophilic™ H provides very important thickening
properties and allows the formulation of white and odorless emulsions from cream
to butter.
- Biophilic™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more fluid off-white
textures from lotion to cream.
Biophilic™ forms lamellar O/W emulsions able to restore the skin barrier.
Product descriptionINCI NAMEBIOPHILIC™ H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acidBIOPHILIC™ S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid
ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered
APPEARANCEBeige to light grey pellets (H) Light yellow pellets (S)
FORMULATIONHydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C
OPTIMUM pH 5-7
DOSAGE 3-6%
APPLICATIONSLotions to butter emulsions for: - Skin care- Suncare- Make-up
CHINA-COMPLIANT
Variation of TEWL
% c
om
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Gel with 5% Biophilic™ tested on the forearms of 6 volunteers,
after washing with a 10% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate
-22
3h after the application
of the gel
Before the application of the gel
Lamellar structure of a cream with Biophilic™
n Oil n Smooth matrix
Network of stacked sheets
Primary particles
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
Amisol™ Soft is an optimized blend of phospholipids, phytosterols
and vegetable lipids which forms lamellar O/W emulsions for soft
applications.
THE GENTLE EMULSIFIER
Lamellar networkLamellar O/W creams and lotions formulated
with Amisol™ Soft are organized in phospholipidic
bilayers with interspersed phytosterols and fatty
alcohols. The combination of phospholipids with
phytosterols allows the formation of a stable supple
lamellar network, leading to fluid emulsions. This
biomimetic structure is particularly suitable for
sensitive or stressed skins.
Protective actionThe natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemical damages,
causing redness and dryness. Amisol™ Soft forms a biomimetic lipid film on the skin’s
surface to prevent damage. The phytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin
due to their well-known anti-inflammatory properties.
Amisol™ Soft maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum.
The TEWL is reduced ensuring optimum hydration.
PolysensorialEmulsions made with Amisol™ Soft have three main features. Firstly, they give an
immediate feeling of coolness. Secondly, the voluptuous character of the emulsion
provides unctuous sensation. Its shear thinning behavior improves the spreadability
properties of creams and lotions. Finally, Amisol™ Soft leaves the skin velvety smooth.
Amisol™ Soft creates soft lamellar O/W emulsions with protective and soothing effects.
Product descriptionINCI NAMEBehenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols
ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered
APPEARANCELight yellow pellets
FORMULATIONHydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C
OPTIMUM pH 4-7
DOSAGE 3-6%
APPLICATIONSLotions to creams: - Sensitive skin care- Baby care products- Suncare- Make-up
CHINA-COMPLIANT
Time (hours)
Lamellar structure of a cream with Amisol™ Soft
Control Placebo Amisol™ Soft
tEWL Variation
% c
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0
Gel with 5% Amisol™ Soft tested on the forearms of 11 volunteers
1h
1 0
5
2h
13
4
17
0
5
10
15
20
Heliofeel™ is an easy-to-use natural O/W emulsifier with
sunflower phospholipids. It creates a wide range of textures, and
can be used in all formulation types.
THE POLYVALENT EMULSIFIER
Made with sunflower phospholipids and two other
natural emulsifying ingredients, Heliofeel™ is the last
launched emulsifier in the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
series. It provides a micellar O/W emulsion with a
discontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets.
Easy-to-useHeliofeel™ is very simple to use as it doesn’t require the hydration of phospholipids.
Heliofeel™ is compatible with a large variety of oils (up to 40% with 4% Heliofeel™),
pigments and both physical and chemical sunscreens.
It forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes (e.g. 1% NaCl) and
other destabilizing agents (organic acids, glyceryl esters...) over a wide range of pH.
Large range of texturesPolyvalent, it allows the formulation of a large range of textures from sprayable
emulsions when used alone, to cream emulsions when combined with a thickener. The
viscosity increases with increasing Heliofeel™ and oil phase contents.
According to the specific sensorial profile established by an expert panel, Heliofeel™
gives more fluid white emulsions with higher brightness and a better penetration when
applied. This is based on its less rigid “non lamellar structure”.
Moisturizing actionBased on the film-forming properties of phospholipids, Heliofeel™ forms a protective
barrier, which decreases TEWL and therefore helps to keep the skin moisturized.
Heliofeel™ provides moisturizing micellar O/W emulsions from sprays to creams.
Product descriptionINCI NAMEGlyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin
ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered
APPEARANCELight yellow pellets
FORMULATIONIntroduce into oil phase
OPTIMUM pH 4-8
DOSAGE 3-6%
APPLICATIONS- Sprayable to cream emulsions- Suncare- Make-up
CHINA-COMPLIANT
Cream structure with Heliofeel™
Placebo Heliofeel™
Active formula: Heliofeel™ (4%), Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (95.5%)Placebo: Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (99.5%)
Variation of TEWL
% c
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1h 2h 3h 4h
-8%-6%
-6%-5%
0
-2
-4
-6
-8
-10
Time (hours)
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 10 000 - 20 000 mPa.s
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 10 000 - 15 000 mPa.s
After Shave Balm 7.047.01 C60 ECO
Rebalancing Cream 9.180.03 C84
Nutricream 9.176.01 C84 ECO
Milky Aqua Cream 9.202.06 C88
A Deionised water Water 61.70 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10
B Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigum Sclerotium gum 0.30
C Amisol™ Soft Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate 4.00 (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl carbonate 7.00 Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5.00 Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 2.00 Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 2.00 Dermofeel™ GSC* Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil
D Capt-System™ PS Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dicaprylyl ether 4.00 (and) Lecithin (and) Phytosphingosine Lysosensyl™ Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lysolecithin 4.00
E Dermorganics™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00 Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.30
F Eau de source C4212 Fragrance 0.10
A Deionised water Water 72.25 Amigel Sclerotium gum 0.50 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10 Blue 1 0.1% solution Water (and) CI 42090 0.20 Linumine™ Linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract 0.25 Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30
B Heliofeel™ Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) 4.00 Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate 4.00 Dc 200.350 CS Dimethicone 3.00 Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 4.00 Crodamol W Stearyl heptanoate 3.00
C Hydraporine™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 3.00 Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin Canadian Willowherb™ Water (and) Epilobium angustifolium 1.00 flower/leaf/stem extract Kollaren® Water (and) Dextran (and) Tripeptide-1 1.00
D Dermosoft™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00
E Capture 3068 Fragrance 0.20
A Deionised water Water 58.80 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10
B Glycerin Glycerin 4.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigum Sclerotium gum 0.30
C Biophilic™ H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols 4.00 (and) Palmitic acid
D Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 7.00 Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5.00 Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 3.00 Dermofeel™ Sensolv* Isoamyl laurate 6.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil
E Sculptessence™ Water (and) Glycerin (and) Linum 5.00 usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract Suprem’™ Nature Water (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 2.00 Avoine seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract Songa™ Water (and) Solidago virgaurea (goldenrod) 1.00 extract
F Dermorganics™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00 Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.30
A Deionised water Water 65.20 FDC yellow 5 0.1% Water (and) CI 19140 0.40 solution FDC red 4 0.1% Water (and) CI 14700 0.20 solution Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10 Biophilic™ S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) 4.00 Palmitic acid
B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigel Sclerotium gum 0.20
C Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 3.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5.00 Dc 200.350 CS Dimethicone 2.00 Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5.00
D Isocell™ Life Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) 4.00 Butylene glycol (and) Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer Suprem’™ WP Water (and) Gossypium herbaceum (cotton) 1.00 Coton seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate Exo-H™ Butylene glycol (and) Alteromanas ferment 1.00 filtrate
E Covabead PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 2.00
F Dermosoft™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00
G Empreinte 4094 Fragrance 0.10
INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES %
INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES %
INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES %
INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES %
* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.
UNIQUE SENSORIAL PROFILE
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has optimized the emulsifying properties of phospholipids by
combining them with other natural compounds with higher HLB values.
Three generations of phospholipid-based emulsifiers have been developed - Biophilic™,
Amisol™ Soft and Heliofeel™- to offer various choices of formulations with unique
sensorial characteristics.
HIGH TOLERANCE
The ingredients composing Biophilic™, Amisol™ Soft and Heliofeel™ have been selected
with particular care. They are 100% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and
biocompatibility with the skin for a perfect safety.
Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market (sucroesters and
ethoxylated systems), they are better tolerated and can be used for all kind of products,
particularly for the most delicate applications (sensitive skin products, baby care and
cleansers).
Biophilic™, Amisol™ Soft, Heliofeel™: the emulsifiers which pamper your skin.
Phospholipid touchThe sensory profiles of basic creams containing 4% of each
emulsifier were evaluated by an expert panel. All phospholipid-
based emulsifiers give some similar results which can be
characterized as the “Phospholipid Touch” :
• Cool
• Slippery
• Non-tacky
• Soft
However, each emulsifier has its own individual benefits and is
recommended for different applications based on the desired
texture and skin feel.
Opacity
White (color)
Brightness
Fluidity
Picking
Slipping
Coolness
Whitening (application)
Spreadability
Greasiness
Penetration
Tackiness
Softness
Residue
2
4
6
8
10
0
Biophilic™ H
Amisol™ Soft
Heliofeel™
CELLuLar viabiLity
%
In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal
keratinocytes.
Tested dose: 0.008%
Biophilic™ H
>100
Amisol™ Soft Heliofeel™ Sucroesters Ethoxylatedsystem
-30% -80%100
80
60
40
20
0
Features And BenefitsFEATURES BENEFITS
Phospholipids: skin-identical molecules Strong skin affinity and biocompatibility, high tolerance
The “Phospholipid touch”: a sensorial signature Cool, slippery, non tacky, non greasy and soft skin feel
Various phospholipid-based O/W emulsifiers Formulation of a wide range of textures from spray to butter
Summary Biophilic™ H Biophilic™ S Amisol™ Soft Heliofeel™
Hydration phase Yes Yes Yes No
Lamellar network Yes Yes Yes No
pH 5-7 5-7 4-7 4-8
Viscosity ++++ ++ +++ +
Richness on application +++ +++ ++ +
Cream dose 4-6%
4-6% 4-6%
4-6% + thickener + thickener
Lotion dose
1-2% 4-6% 3-4% 4-6% + co-emulsifier
Spray dose 1-2% 1-2% 1-2%
3-4% + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier
Main applications
Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up
Ecocert status
Registered Registered Registered Registered
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS S.A.S.
ZA les Belles Fontaines99 route de Versailles91160 Champlan - France T: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 69 - F: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 70
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS CANADA INC.
Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité2600 boul. Laurier, #900Québec (Québec) - G1V 4W2 CanadaT: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-6005
This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products.
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