PERFECTLYSUITED

The Crane Brothers flagship store on High Street epitomises elegant heritage with a contemporary twist.

Fresh white lilies scent the air. Studded twin leather arm chairs are positioned perfectly by polished wooden cabinetry full of curated accessories from around the globe. Coffee is presented in fine bone china. Row upon row of meticulously merchandised garments frame the walls.

Welcome to the world of the artisan contemporary tailor. Only one standard exists here — and it’s excellence. Every client is treated as a VIP.

Founder, Murray Crane and his newly appointed general manager, George Bowler share their thoughts about how they consistently deliver quality and why made-to-measure tailoring is the ultimate luxury for men.

“It’s a logistical challenge every single day. We’re manufacturing over different time-zones, different currencies, and different languages so there’s definitely a lot of pieces that go into the puzzle,” says Crane, with operations both in Italy and New Zealand.

“For me Italy has always represented the pinnacle of men’s fashion — in terms of quality, artisanal approach yet high spec in terms of production.”

It’s common that one individual order may have up to six individual garments needing separate components such as cloth, lining and buttons sourced from suppliers in England, Italy or New Zealand — and that’s before dealing with freight, customs, duty or the first client fitting!

The five key pillars that underpin Crane Brothers tailoring are cut, cloth, construction, good quality, and uncompromising quality control.

Cloth is a key tailoring component. Murray explains that Italian weavers have a signature complexity to their designs by using secondary colours, marl or a secondary check or over check. The English are opting for tradition in the finish: “They’re techniques that cannot be emulated by mass production which is where tailoring is going as a whole.”

George, a graduate of the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in France sees a big correlation between bespoke fragrance and

men’s tailoring: “There’s an intricacy and niche quality to both — it’s not something that can be churned out — there’s a level of understanding and care that doesn’t exist in mass-market offerings.”

Suiting in 2017 is still strong and on the return again in the current menswear shows they say. “Our silhouette is softer, relaxed, going back to wider lapel and less corporate with blazers and trousers. We use the term a ‘black collar worker’ —someone in between a white and blue collar. He wears tailored out of choice, not necessity.”

It’s a choice that anyone can make too — it’s not just for the wealthy. Crane Brothers have many customers that save up to invest in a suit. “They’re the customers we value the most,” says Crane. “They have a high interest in what they want — it’s about permanent style rather than throwaway fashion.”

It’s common for fathers to bring in their sons to the store for their first suit: “Make sure you find one that is classic, multi-purpose and serves you well across many occasions.”

George adds: “A classic two-button suit in navy or charcoal will always be in style, and is one of the most versatile pieces a man can own. Many of our clients both young and mature, favour a slim, clean silhouette which when properly tailored (which is what we do best), is immensely flattering to all body types.”

Murray is quick to respond to the quintessential question about every man needing a tailored suit: “Men should dress properly. Everyone has a requirement for one in their lifetime — a special event, a wedding, an interview. It should be a cornerstone in every man’s wardrobe.”

If Crane Brothers was a signature scent, what would it smell like?

George, trained at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in France imagines it having a refined masculinity.

“The fragrance would open with bright piquant notes of elemi and cumin followed by woody and green facets of vetiver, violet leaf and galbanum.” he says. “Animalic undertones of leather and oakmoss would add strength and longevity.”

— Words: Sarah Sparks

— CRANE-BROTHERS.COM

L-R: Murray Crane and George Bowler.