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Transcript of paturi suprapuse
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Introduction
Why have a kid sleep in a full-size bed when a kid's-
sized bed will do the trick ever so comfortably and
free up much needed bedroom space?
These beds are for kids. They are not full size and
will not accommodate adults. They are ideal for
places unable to fit a full size set of bunks. They can
be used as bunks (one on top of the other) or as two
single beds that can be tucked neatly into a corner.
The bunk set comprises of two single kids beds, two
bunk ends, and a ladder.
Once made, The beds, the bunk ends, and ladder
can be easily assembled to make the complete bunk
set (one bed on top of the other).
The bunks and bed frames can just as easily be
disassembled, should you wish to revert back to two
single beds or even one.
Beyond that, you'll want to know what to expect
when choosing thebest mattressfor the project.
With these plans and instructions you can make as
little as one bed or make the complete bunk set
which can be assembled and disassembled at will.
There are only three different stock sizes required forthis project. They are 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm),
3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm), and 3/4" x 1 1/2"
(40mm x 19mm).
Those wood sizes are common stock and should be
available in most areas.
There is a short video clip that may be of some help
with the construction
processhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYM
and there is an online Spanish version athttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.html
Important safety notes
Bunks are a real space-saver butthere are a lot of safety concerns when it comes to bunk
beds, brought about by the number of accidents which do happen with them.
Read 'a few bunk bed safety guidelines' on pages 14 and 15and then ponder if bunk beds
are the best option for you.
It is recommended that only kids six years or over use the top bunk, that firm rules be dished out
by the parents or guardians, and that bunk beds be built to a strict criteria.
http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/ -
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Identifying the parts
The bunk set comprises of five individual sections - which are two single kids beds, two bunk
ends, and a ladder.
Once the sections are made, they can be easily bolted together (assembled) to make the
complete bunk set (one bed on top of the other).
The bunks can just as easily be disassembled, should you wish to revert back to two single
beds or even one.
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Bunk size
Each bed is 64 1/2" (1641mm) long overall and 30" (750mm) wide, and is the perfect size for
kids up to the age of 10 or so.
The overall bunk unit is 64 1/2" (1641mm) long, 31 1/2" (787mm) wide and 57 1/2" (1437mm)
high.The mattress area is 63"(1575mm) by 27" (675mm).
If you already have a mattress that is a slightly different size, with a little bit of thought it
shouldn't be too difficult for you to alter the plans to suit.
About the mattresses
Use 4"(100mm) thick foam rubber mattresses.
Sometimes it is cheaper to buy standard size single mattresses and cut them to size.
There always seems to be special or sale somewhere for such items. It is not too hard to cut a
standard size single foam rubber mattress. Just take off the cover, cut the foam rubber to size
with a long bladed craft knife and re-sew the cover to suit.
About the measurements
The measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard (inches) and Metric (mm).
The standard measurements are given first followed by the metric measurements in brackets ( ).
For example: 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm).
For rounding-off purposes, the metric sizes in this project are not an exact match to the
equivalent imperial sizes.
A structure built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller than the
same structure using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. Not really worth worrying about.
The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are
more suited to Australasia and other countries.
The size (width and thickness) of the wood used in this project is the 'actual' (true) size.
That is the size of the wood after it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned).
The 'nominal' size of the wood is in reference to its size before being dressed.
The 'actual' size of the wood is smaller than the 'nominal' size.
Below is a 'nominal' versus 'actual' chart, listing the wood sizes that are used in this project.
Standard (inches)
NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE
1" x 4" 3/4" x 3 1/2"
1" x 6" 3/4" x 5 1/2"
Metric (millimetres)
NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE
100mm x 25mm 90mm x 19mm
150mm x 25mm 140mm x 19mm
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The cutting list for the beds
Note 1: The list below is for two beds. If you only want to make one bed, then halve the list. The
cutting list for the bunk ends and ladder is on the next page.
Note 2: Dimensions in the cutting list are finished (actual sizes). Also, when purchasing the
wood be sure to allow extra for waste.
Wood
ITEM DESCRIPTION STOCK SIZE LENGTH HOW MANY PIECES
[a] side rail 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 4
[b] side guardrail 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 2
[c] end rail 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 30" (750mm) 4
[d] end guardrail 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm) 30" (750mm) 4
[e] leg 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 22" (550mm) 8
[f] bed slat support 3/4" x 1 1/2" (40mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 4
[g] bed slat 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 27" (675mm) 24
Hardware
176 wood screws 1 1/2" (38mm) long, 32 screw caps, and some wood glue.
Note 1: The screws should be long enough to go almost through two thicknesses of wood.
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Bed plans
Above are the plans for a kids bed.
You will need to make two of these. The plans for the for the bunk ends and ladder are on the
next two pages.
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The bunk end plan
Above are the plans for a bunk end. You will need to make two of these. The plans for the beds
are on the previous page, and the plans for the ladder are on the next page
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The bunk ladder plans
Above are the plans for the bunk ladder. The plans for the beds and the bunk ends are on the
previous two pages.
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Step 1: Make the bed base
Cut all the pieces according to the measurements
given in the cutting liston page 4.
Glue and screw the two slat supports (f)to the two
side rails (a).
Screw about every 8"(200mm) apart and pre-drill the
screw holes through the slat supports (f).
Place the side rails apart on a couple of sawhorses and spread the bed slats (g)along the top of
the slat supports, allowing approximately 2" (50mm) gap between each slat.
Glue and screw the slats to the slat supports. Use two screws at each end of every slat.
Pre-drill the screw holes through the slats (g).
Step 2: Make the bed ends
Round the top ends of the legs with a jig-saw,
sander or other suitable tool. Refer to drawing
above.
Lay the legs (e)on edge on a couple of
sawhorses.
Place the end rail (c)and the end guardrail (d)in position on top of the legs and glue and screw
them in place.
Use two screws at each end of both the rail and the guardrail.
Pre-drill the screw holes through both the rail and the guardrail.
Note 1: Ensure that the rail and guardrail are at right angles (square) to the legs.
Note 2: Ensure that the distance in between the two legs is the same as the overall width of the
bed base.
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Step 3: Fit the bed ends
Lay the bed base on its side, on top of a couple of sawhorses.
The two bed ends should fit snugly into place,
one at each end of the bed base.
Add a bit of glue and slip the legs (e)of the
bed ends over the side rails (a)of the bed
base.
Butt the ends of the side rails (a)up tight to the
end rails (c)and then screw through the
insides of the side rails (drill first) into the legs.
Step 4: Add the side guardrail
Now just a matter of adding the side guardrail(b)to the back of the bed.
Fasten the side guardrail (b)to the top part of
the legs (e)in line with the end guardrails (d).
Use four screws at each end of the side
guardrail.
Pre-drill the screw holes through the side
guardrail.
Sand any sharp corners and paint.
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Step 5: Cut the pieces
Cut all the pieces for the two bunk ends and the ladder according to the measurements given in
the cutting liston page 5.
Always cut the longest pieces first and then cut the shorter pieces out of the off-cuts.
The four bunk corner posts (h), the bunk guardrail (p)and the two ladder sides (m)will each
need to have one of their corners rounded as shown in the plan drawingsin pages 7 and 8.
Use a jig-saw, fret saw or similar tool.
Step 6: Make the two bunk ends
Lay the bunk corner posts (h)on edge on a
couple of sawhorses.
Place the bunk end rails (j)on top of the
bunk corner posts, position them and then
glue and screw in place.
Refer to the drawing above for placement.
Use two screws at each end of each rail (j).
Pre-drill the screw holes through the rails (j).
Note 1: Ensure that the rails (j)are at rightangles (square) to the corner posts (h).
Note 2: Ensure that the distance in between the corner posts (h)is the same as the overall
width of the bed including the legs.
Step 7: Make the ladder
Make the ladder up on a flat surface or on a
couple of sawhorses.
Refer to the ladder planon page 8for
dimensions.
Glue and screw all joins.
Use four screws at each join and pre-drill
the screw holes through the rungs (n), (o)
and through the bunk guardrail (p).
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Step 8: Assemble the bunks
Lay one of the bunk ends flat on the ground.
Place the beds (standing on their ends) in
position in between the bunk corner posts (h).
Then place the other bunk end in position on top
of the beds.
Hold everything firmly in place with a few
clamps.
Drill the bolt holes and add the bolts. Refer to the
drawing on the right for hole placement.
Refer to the hardware liston page 5for bolt
sizes.
Make the bolt hole sizes the same diameter as
the bolts.
Step 9: Attach the ladder
Attach the ladder while the unit is still standing
on end.
Hold the ladder in place with two or three
clamps.
Drill the bolt holes and add the bolts.
Refer to the drawing on the right for holeplacement.
Refer to the hardware liston page 5for bolt
sizes.
Make the bolt hole sizes the same diameter as
the bolts.
You can then tip the bunks over to their right
position.
Safety note:These bunk beds are designed for each bed to have a foam rubber mattress 4" (100mm) thick.
It is important that there is at least 5" (125mm) between the top of the mattress and the top of
the guardrail.
A mattress any thicker will be contrary to the safety guidelines.
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Step 10: Nut guards and screw caps
Make some nut guards. In this context a nut
guard is basically a small piece of plywood or
MDF board, made to surround a nut and thus
help prevent possible injury to a kid who scrapesagainst a nut or bolt protruding from a bunk rail.
Cut a few pieces of 5/16" (9mm) thick MDF board
or plywood about 2 1/4" (55mm) x 2 1/4" (55mm)
square.
Stack the pieces on top of one another and lock
in between some pieces of wood held by clamps.
(See picture.)
This enables the pieces to be held firmly in place
while being drilled.
Drill the center hole 1" (25mm) diameter and
make the four screw holes near the corners 1/8"
(3mm) or screw shank size.
Fix (glue and screw) the nut guards around every
bolt that could cause injury to skin if scraped
against.
Next pop screw caps over the screw heads.
Finally, sand any sharp corners or edges, see
who you can find in the family to help with the
painting and have a look at 'a few bunk bed
safety guidelines'on the next page.
Enjoy!