Patternmaking for Knits

7/23/2019 Patternmaking for Knits

1/11

withJudy Jackson

PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

Supply List

SUPPLIES Straight pins Plain or gridded pattern paper

Oaktag for slopers Tape measure French curve

Hip curve 1/8" grid ruler L-square Paper scissors

Pencils Pattern tracer (optional) Fabric for testing torso sloper: jersey or interlock Fabric for testing leggings sloper: 2-way stretch

Fabric marking tools


2/11

withJudy Jackson


QUICK WOVEN-TO-KNIT ADJUSTMENT GUIDERemove wearing ease from woven patterns to makeup in a knit fabric with at least 10% crosswise stretch.

Bodices and dresses

Move side seam in " (6 mm) Raise waist and side dart " (6 mm)

Raise waist dart apex " (6 mm) Raise armhole " (13 mm) at side seam Raise neck " (6 mm) at center front only

Sleeves

Move underarm seams in " (6 mm) Raise armhole " (13 mm) at underarm seam

Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

1/4"

1/4" 1/4"

1/4"

1/4"

1/2"

Bodice

New biceps

level1/2"1/4" 1/4"

1

/2

"


3/11

withJudy Jackson


Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

Skirt

1/4"

1/4"

1/4"

1/4"

1

/2"

New crotch

level

Skirts

Move side seam in " (6 mm) Raise hem " (6 mm)

Pants

Move inseam and outseam in " (6 mm) Raise crotch point " (13 mm) Raise hem " (6 mm)


4/11

withJudy Jackson


Knit Sleeve Sloper

KNIT SLEEVE SLOPER This sloper is a plain set-in sleeve; the left half of

the draft is the back of the sleeve.

True sleeve sloper to the armholes of the torsosloper to use them together.

Finding cap height: Reference chart on page 5.

For sizes larger than 18 or smaller than 6, add orsubtract 1/8" per size.

Drafting Order

1. Establish center of sleeve with overarm lengthfrom shoulder (A) to wrist (B). Mark cap height (C)and elbow length (D) from (A). Square guidelinesthrough (A), (B), (C), and (D).

2. Establish sleeve cap: Split bicep measurementover (C) and mark endpoints (D) and (E).Connect (A) and (C-D) with the back armhole

measurement and make a mark (F). Markmidpoint of (D-F) as (G). Repeat for front half ofsleeve cap on (C-E) to nd point (H) and midpoint

(I). Divide (A-G) and (A-I) in thirds.

3. Draft sleeve: Split elbow measurement over

(D), marking endpoints (J) and (K). Split wristmeasurement over (B), marking endpoints (L) and(M). Connect (G-L) and (I-M); lines should comenear but do not need to pass through (J) and (K)

A

C

D

D G F H EI

J K


5/11

withJudy Jackson

Class CategoryPATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

Craftsy.com 5 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

Knit Sleeve Sloper

SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHART

1. Overarm Length(slightly bent)

2. Shoulder-to-elbow

3. Bicep (fullest part of the arm)

4. Wrist

5. Cap Height(see chart below)

6. Front Armhole Measurement

7. Back Armhole Measurement

SIZE CAP HEIGHT

6 55/8"

8 5"

10 57/8"

12 6"

14 61/8"

16 6"

18 63/8"

BACK FRONT

1

2

7 6

3

4

5
http://www.craftsy.com/http://www.craftsy.com/


6/11

withJudy Jackson


Knit Sloper Adjustments

KNIT SLOPER TO BOXY TOP Use with rmer and more stable knits for loose-

tting T shirts and jackets.

Adjust boxiness by varying amount of spread andarmhole adjustment.

Make adjustments to back pattern and adjust

neckline for front. For sleeve, measure and note length of underarm

seams of original sloper.

Torso Drafting Order

1. Trace back sloper. Draw a line parallel to CB fromcenter of shoulder to hem.

2. Slash and spread up to 3" (7.6 cm).

3. Blend new shoulder line from neck to armhole.

4. Lower armhole 2"-3" (5 cm - 7.6 cm) and correctcurve. Measure and note the new armhole length.

5. Correct side seam, squaring from underarm.

6. Trace for front and copy original front neckline.

Sleeve Drafting Order

1. Trace back half of sleeve sloper onto foldedpaper, aligning center of sleeve on fold. Markoriginal shoulder (A), wrist (B), and bicep (C) alongfold. Mark original end of wrist (D).

0-3"

2-3"

0-3"

A


7/11

withJudy Jackson


Knit Neckline Trim

NECKLINE TRIM PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Knit trims for standard necklines are simple

rectangles.

Measure and note combined front/back torsoneckline measurement at the stitching line. Ifmeasuring from a completed pattern, deduct

shoulder seam allowances. Determine what style of trim rst to calculate

width; then decide on fabric to calculate length. Use " seam allowances on all trim patterns.

Width

Inserted/crew-neck trim width = nished width x 2

Bound/scoop-neck trim width = nished width x 4Length

Self fabric length = neckline measurement x .75

Ribbing length = neckline measurement x .66

INSERTED TRIM BOUND TRIM

SELF FABRICWidth = (nished width x 2) + (" x 2)Length = (neckline x .75) + (" x 2)

Width = (nished width x 4) + (" x 2)Length = (neckline x .75) + (" x 2)

RIBBINGWidth = (nished width x 2) + (" x 2)Length = (neckline x .66) + (" x 2)

Width = (nished width x 4) + (" x 2)Length = (neckline x .66) + (" x 2)

QUICK GUIDE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES

I t d T i


8/11

withJudy Jackson


Knit Pants Sloper

PULL-ON KNIT PANTS SLOPER This pant hangs straight from the hip and ts

loosely, with a pull-on elasticized waist. If you

want a closer t through the hip and waist, adddarts and a zipper opening.

If you choose to omit waist shaping and your side

seam is completely straight, you have the optionof taping the front and back patterns together atthe side and cutting each leg in one piece withouta side seam.

If desired, taper to the ankle by angling theinseam and outseam from the crotch to the ankle.

Drafting Order

1. Trace skirt sloper front; extend base to desired

pant length. Mark center front waist as (A).

2. Mark measured crotch depth, raise " (19

mm), and establish new crotch depth. Markcrotch depth intersection with CF as (B). Make areference mark (X) at midpoint of (A-B).

3. Draft crotch curve base: Measure front hipof pattern; divide by two and subtract " (19

mm). Extend out from (B) by this amount. Markendpoint of this line as (C), the crotch point.

4. Draft inseam and outseam: Square off (C) toh li i ki id h li

A

B C

E

x


9/11

withJudy Jackson



Knit Pants Sloper

PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART

1.

Crotch Depth(sit down on a straight surface and

measure along the side from your waist to the

table or chair you are sitting on)

2.Crotch Length(measure between the legs from

the front waist to the back waist)

3. Inseam

4. Front Hip5. Back Hip

3

2

1

4

5


10/11

withJudy Jackson


Knit Leggings Sloper

KNIT LEGGINGS SLOPER This leggings sloper relies on stretch to t the body

very closely; use for two-way stretch knits only.

The legging has no side seams and is cut in twopieces for right leg and left leg. When draftingthe sloper, the left half of the draft represents the

back of the leg. Using the sloper: Do not add seam allowance to

the crotch and inseam; add hem allowances atthe waist and ankle as desired.

Drafting Order

1. Draft sloper guidelines: Draft guideline for ankle to waist

measurement; mark waist as (A) and ankle as

(B). Left half of draft represents back of leg;right half of draft represents front.

Mark knee point as (C).

Mark thigh as (D). Square through (B) and draft guideline for

ankle. Mark back side endpoint (E) and front

side endpoint (F). Square through (C) and draft guideline for

knee. Mark back side endpoint (G) and frontside endpoint (H).

Square through (D) and draft guideline forthigh Mark back side endpoint (I) and front

6. Build front crotch curve: Mark 1" (2.5 cm) in from(J) and mark as (O); connect (L-O) in a straight

line. Mark midpoint of (L-O) as (P); connect (P-J)with a curved line.

7. Build back crotch curve: Mark 2" (5.1 cm) in from

(I) and mark as (Q); connect (N-Q) in a straightline. Mark midpoint of (N-Q) as (R); connect (R-I)with a curved line.

FrontBackA

I JOKDQ M

P

L

N

R


11/11

withJudy Jackson



Knit Leggings Sloper

LEGGINGS MEASUREMENT CHART

1.Waist(at natural waist, or wherever you want the

leggings to reach)

2. Hip:(at fullest hip)

3.Thigh(at fullest part, high up on the leg near the

crotch)

4. Knee(at the top of knee with your knee straight)

5. Ankle(at fnished length)6. Waist to Ankle

7. Ankle to Knee(on side)

8. Knee to Thigh

9. Front Rise

10. Back Rise

Rise Depth: thigh (waist 2)

Front Rise Depth: rise depth x .33

Back Rise Depth: rise depth x .66

1

2

3

4

5

7

6

10

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Patternmaking for Knits

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