Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

Key Concepts and Terms

Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack) Block Pattern CAD-Computer Aided Design Costing Design Details Design Samples Drafting a Pattern Flat Pattern Garment Cost Sheet Grading

Key Concepts and Terms

Logistics Pattern Maker Pattern Specification Sheet Production Samples Prototype Retail Reverse Engineered Pattern Sloper Pattern Sourcing Tariffs Wholesale

Pattern Making Process

• Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product.

• Consider the design details.• Select the materials (fabrication and trims)• Construct the sample (prototype)• Fit, revise and finalize the sample• Create an apparel technical design pack• Prepare pattern for mass production

Creating a Pattern

Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods:

Flat DraftingReversed Engineered DrapingComputer Generated

Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods

Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block.

Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods

Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements.

Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video Reverse Engineering a Pattern-

Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

Types of 3D Pattern Making Methods

Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making.

Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products.

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Consider Design Details

Dress Styles: Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent,

Empire, or Lower waistline Other Dress Styles: Princess,

Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress

Neckline Styles: Decollete8 , Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole.

Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic,

Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley Collar Styles: Shirt, Button

Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot

Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan

Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two-Piece Tailored

Consider Design Details

Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing

Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design

Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap

Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda

Shorts, and Short Shorts, Other Pant Styles

Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes

Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box

  Pockets- Patch, Inseam,

Welt, Flap

Selecting The Materials and Costing

Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc.

Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability.

Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

Construct the Sample

Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers.

Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques.

They work closely to insure fit and design integrity.

Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE PATTERN

Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment.

Revise garment fit until it is correct.

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Apparel Design Technical Pack The Apparel Design Technical (Tech)

Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized.

Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video

The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following:

1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

Apparel Design Technical Pack 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or

matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc.

3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color.

4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics.

5. Measurement details. 6. Care Instructions for labeling 7. Color details and season information

Sample of an Apparel Design Technical Pack

Season-Style #-

Date-Designer-

Body Measurements

Technical Sketch- include design and construction detailsHardware

and TrimFabrication and Color

Swatch of Fabrics

Care Label Information

Comments

Prepare Pattern For Mass Production

Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion.

The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand.

Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.