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Pat silk[edit]

Pat silk is produced by Bombyx textorsilkwormswhich feed on mulberry (Morusspp.) leaves. It is

usually brilliant white or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow.

State of Pat & Muga Industry of Assam :

Ibu Sanjeeb Garg by

April 7, 2011

Whenever a dignitary has visited Assam they have not failed to appreciate the beauty and the glory of

the Pat Muga Silk Industry of Assam. Visitors often proclaim that she has never seen anything as beautiful as

the muga or the pat of Assam. A kind of cloth which is of the best variety they declare. However what

they are looking at may not exist in a few years from now. Indeed the state of affairs that exist in this

traditional silk industry it may soon well face closure.Let us look at some of the inherent problems that

encompass the muga industry today and threaten to take away its very existence.

The first and the foremost problem of the industry is this regard is the non existence of price control.There is no price control board which regulates the price of these commodities. For example the price of a

piece of cloth is the same as it was 5 years ago with very minor increase. In this era of inflated economy we

can all comprehend how this non increase in the basic prices of the commodity will hit the producers. Major

fallout of this non increase in price, is degradation in the quality of cloth. To make up for the losses in the non

increases of prices a large number of producers are retorting to mixing other elements in the cloth. The price ofthe commodity depends on a few large traders who virtually have iron grip on the market. They fluctuate the

prices according to their own needs so the market prices move when they desire to do so. This hegemony

deters the very growth of the industry and also acts against letting any new traders enter this trade since theyknow the profits will depend on the whims and fancies of a few large traders.

The problems of the industry do not end here. As with so many other traditional industries of Assam .A

major fallout is the non existence of modern financial practices .This holds true for the traditional textile

industry of Assam as well. There is a complete lack of financial accounting .In the times of globalizationfinancial accounting accounts for a major role in the establishment of an industry. It not only brings about a

sense of proper financial status but also accords a corporate style functioning which is achieved by the figuresthe accounts show up. This particular factor is not only the problem of traditional textile industry but almost all

industries of Assam.

While the price of the muga cloth has not increased substantially yet the price of the raw materials has

taken a quantum leap. There is a single party of a particular commercial area of Guwahati who supplies these

raw materials to the traders. This particular supplier has been holding the aegis of this trade for years now.

Understandably the prices move when the particular trader decides to do so. As a result prices of raw materials

have increased substantially over the years. This has resulted in the further degradation of the quality of cloth

with many traders using the torch cloth as a mixture to the muga silk. Torch is undistinguishable from muga

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silk and thus to save costs the small traders have to resort to the adulteration of the traditional cloth. This

cartelization of raw materials have further impended the growth of this traditional industry.

The system of hegemony of trade has a major fallout. Once the production is made the small tradersflock to the few big traders of the commercial area of Guwahati to sell their produce. However this is a very

unique system here. Suppose a trader from Sualkuchi sells goods worth Rs. 50000 then the particular trader of

Guwahati pays him only Rs. 25000 and the rest goes to the account book of the small trader as the money thathas to be paid. This money accumulates over a period of time and sometimes they run as high as Rs.

500000.Thus it is easily deducible that while the big traders of Guwahati carry on their business by circulating

the money of the small traders in the market, the small trader rarely gets the benefits. During the time of

weaving the big traders do pay some amount but even then it is not comparable to the dues the small trader

should actually get.

Another major problem has emerged in recent times due to NREGA. True that this flagship programmeof the UPA government has worked wonders however in the weaving industry of Assam it has acted as a

major deterrent. Previously workers use to come from the tribal villages of Assam however with the NREGA

in working these workers do not feel the need to work since they earn money sitting in their homes. Thus theworkforce of the industry is missing. Even the ones who come charge very high thus breaking the backbone of

the traders.

The solutions to these problems are not difficult to comprehend however. First and foremost we must

understand the pattern of the silk trade. A major produce is exported to Japan where it is used to make

kimonos- a kind of specialized clothing in Japan. The traders in Assam can organize a workshop by visiting

Japan under the aegis of the Assam government. They can learn how to manufacture kimonos .Then they canget back and instead of selling the raw material we can sell the finished product in the form of kimonos. This

will ensure not only added revenue but will make the silk traders of Assam global competitors in the true

sense.

The second solution is of course the government setting up a price regulation mechanism so that the

small traders are not exploitated and they get their required price. This can be done by setting up a Silk

Auction Board on the lines of the Tea Auction Board. With a proper administrative mechanism this board can

regulate the activities of the traders in Assam and all produce being sold through them. This will make Assam

silk a large global brand like the tea industry and will also transform it into a modern industry ensuingcompetition at the global level. Government can take steps to regularize the payment of the weavers or the

traditional sipinis so that they get paid more than what the NREGA pays .This will make weaving a lucrative

option once more and will stop the trend of decreasing weavers in the industry. Proper financial auditing must

be a strict regulation for all the traders so that they have a sound economic growth. Banks and other financial

institutions must come forward to give loans to the small traders. Till now most of them are dependent on

private financers who of course charge very high. Banks interest in this sector will also encourage many youths

to take up this business.

The third solution is working towards making the Assamese silk a global brand. This can be done throughmany ways. First and foremost the traders should tie up with the major fashion schools of India like NIFT to

showcase their product. The annual meets of these prestigious institutions are always in the limelight. If the

traders are able to showcase their products during such meets then of course muga and pat silk will get the

proper exposure at the national level. The traders can also tie up with leading fashion designers and fashionbrands of India to use muga and silk extensively in their creations so that the cloth gets exposure at the highestcommercial level. In the long run the traditional silk has to itself emerge as a separate brand to compete in the

global market.

Fourthly efforts must be made to set up a fashion institute on the lines of the NIFT in Sualkuchi region

so that the region gets exposure. This institute will provide the necessary platform for the youth of the regionto showcase their products on a permanent basis. Such an institute will also encourage other entrepreneurs to

enter this sector as the chances of growth will be lucrative. These institutes can also impart training about new

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technology that has emerged in the textile industry so that the youths associated with the trade can utilize it to

increase their production.

The traders must be regularly trained by the institutions of financial reputations like IIE and CII.Thesetraining will not only help them understand how to run a business but will also encourage them to watch the

global market and be able to predict their own future based on the ups and downs of the market. In sum total if

these steps are not taken then it will not be possible for the Assamese silk to compete or survive the globalmarket. It is high time that the government and the civic society sits up and takes notice.

I bu Sanjeeb Garg, Guwahati , E-mai l: pabloo8690@gmail .com

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Handloom Silk Industry in Assam

The Government is aware that silk handloom industry in Assam is passing through a difficult

phase. The State of Assam does not produce required quantity of mulberry silk as per the demand ofthe consumers of the State. Mulberry silk yarn is supplied by the traders from other parts of thecountry, due to which consumers have to purchase yarn at higher rates from the open market.

In the State of Assam, few silk fabric traders have been doing business by producing the Assamese

dress materials, particularly Mekhela-Chadar of mulberry silk at the weaving units outside the Statewith Assamese traditional patterns and designs. As a result, the local producers have protested forimporting such hand woven silk fabrics from outside the State. To address this issue, the Government

of Assam has constituted a State level Committee to look into the grievances of the weavers of

handloom industry.

In order to promote Mulberry, Eri and Muga silk production in Assam, Government through Central

Silk Board is implementing a centrally sponsored cheme viz Catalytic Development Programme(CDP) in collaboration with State Sericulture Department of Assam. Under this scheme, financial

assistance is provided to the stakeholders of silk industry through the State Sericulture Department.The components under CDP envisage development and expansion of host plant, support for seed

production, development of farm and post cocoon infrastructure, up-gradation of reeling andprocessing technologies in silk, enterprise development programme, support for extension andpublicity etc. Rs. 10319.11 lakh Central assistance has been provided to Assam under CDP during

the XI Plan period for the development of silk industry, including mulberry, eri & muga.

To increase the number of trained qualified weavers, a number of skill upgradation programmes havebeen implemented through various schemes like cluster projects and group approach projects underIntegrated Handlooms Development Scheme. Besides, the State Government has been imparting

training to the weavers through 102 Handloom Training Centres and 4 Handloom Training Institutesevery year.

Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles is implementing Silk Mark scheme through the Silk Mark

Organization of India for popularizing the products made of pure silk to protect the interest of

consumers. Silk Mark is a quality assurance label attached to the products made of pure silk and isapplicable to all the silk products made of pure silk covering all varieties of silk viz. Mulberry andVanya (Tasar, Eri & Mugs) silks. Under the Silk Mark Scheme, there are 177 authorized users in NE

region, including Assam, who uses Silk Mark labels. Further, Muga Silk of Assam, has beenregistered under Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999.

This information was given by the Minister of State in the Ministry of Textiles, Smt. PanabaakaLakshmi in a written reply in the Rajya Sabha today.

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Sericulture

The climate and general environment of Assam is well suited to sericulture. Traditional varieties of silk

cultured include eri, muga and mulberry. The muga silk, known for its fine sheen and golden colour is

used by the local silk weaving industry and this has contributed to the development of the muga culture in

the State. There are vast opportunities in silk processing and spinning units.

Assam is traditionally famous for its cottage industry, especially spinning and weaving. Pat or pure silk

production is essentially confined to Assam. Assam produces about 10% of total natural silk of India, in

addition to Muga, the golden silk. The state is also the main producer of Eri or Endi. Weaving is a

traditional industry which can be traced back to the very ancient times. There are about 7,00,000 looms in

Assam, but only some powered looms of Sualkuchi are used for commercial production of silk cloth.

Silk

Assam accounts for the highest production of Non-Mulberry Silk, Muga and Eri - for which it is well

known/famed.

The state contributes 99% and 63% of the total muga and eri raw silk production in the country. There are

approximately 1.9 lakhs families engaged in Sericulture.

In need of a silk revolution

PRANJIT AGARWALA

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inShare

Assam needs to increase the output of its own silk yarns in order to save it from theonslaught of cheap import varieties

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NATURAL SILKS:Eri, muga, tussar and mulberry are found in Assam.

Sericulture and weaving always have been traditional pursuits for the rural Assamese people,

supplementing their agricultural incomes as well as fulfilling their personal requirements of cloth.

Environmentally, Assam is the only place in the world suitable for producing all the four varieties of

natural silks -- eri, muga, mulberry and tussar. Despite these distinct advantages of having atraditional cottage industry, eco-friendly climate for producing raw silks and availability of skilled

man-power, the indigenous silk industry and its niche product for centuries Assam silk is today

struggling to survive.

Ostensibly the problem seems to be market oriented where the demand for Assam silk is diminishing

because it is costlier in comparison to the silks from outside the State, particularly Benares. But this

is misleading because cost wise there is not much difference in the prices of the fabrics produced in

any of the noted silk manufacturing centers of the country including Sualkuchi when the fabrics are

woven out of natural silk yarns. It is only when fabrics are woven out of natural silk yarns blended

with cheap imported Chinese silk or artificial/synthetic silk yarns that a significant difference in the

cost of the fabric occurs. Taking undue advantage of this cost difference and the customers

ignorance unscrupulous traders have been indulging in profiteering by passing off blended products

as pure silk fabrics. The worst sufferers of this duplicity are the silk weavers, who, for survival, are

forced to make distress sales of their genuine products at throwaway prices to the bulk

buyers/mahajans, who have a stranglehold on the market. This was the root cause of the recent

disturbances in the silk town of Sualkuchi. Therefore the threat to Assam silk is not from Benarasi

silk but from duplicate silk fabrics being sold as real silk, a trend which is not confined only to

Assam. In reality there is a growing demand for all the varieties of Assam silk in the domestic,

national and international markets.

For instance, the demand for muga, a monopoly of Assam, has been growing with its increasing

popularity in India and abroad. It is now a high end fashion fabric commanding premium prices. The

market for eri, another exclusive silk of Assam, which was earlier restricted because of its poorquality and limited uses, has also grown with improved technology appreciably upgrading the

quality. Today eri is one of the most economic and durable silk fabrics with multiple uses. Its

excellent thermal properties and suitability for blending with wool has also made it a popular fabric

for the colder climes in India and abroad. Moreover eri is the only natural silk that does not involve

the killing of a living organism as it is not extracted from larvae. It is therefore preferred all over the

world by Buddhists and conservationists. Even though mulberry silk is not exclusive to Assam it is in

demand among the connoisseurs of Assam paat because of its unique texture. Unfortunately the

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indigenous silk industry has not been able to exploit this market potential because of which it is in

the doldrums.

A deficient production because of a shortage of silk yarns is the main reason for the inability to meet

the growing demand. Against a total domestic demand for silk yarns of 26,000 tons (MT) the

country produces only 18,370 MT. The shortfall is made up by imports from China and the lessexpensive synthetic silk yarns from Japan and Italy. The problem has been further aggravated by the

decline in the production of mulberry silk; the most widely used natural silk, in Karnataka.

Karnataka which is the biggest producer of mulberry silk in the country has seen a steady decline in

its area of mulberry cultivation because of rapid urbanization, industrialization and a shortage of

agricultural labour. Consequently prices of mulberry silk yarns have been skyrocketing and Assam

which is heavily dependent on Mysore silk yarns for its production has been caught in this vicious

cycle of decreasing supplies and increasing prices.

The only way to salvage the situation is to increase the States own production of silk yarns. In the

long run this will curtail the dependence on imported yarns, ensure regular supply of yarns to the

local weavers at reasonable rates and make the finished products more price competitive.

Fortunately, unlike Karnataka, the basic parameters for sericulture in the State are still favorable.

The climate is still suitable for silk rearing, the cultivable areas are still untouched by urbanization or

industrialization and a sizable section of the rural population is still involved in rearing and weaving.

At present almost 20,000 hectares of land are in use for muga, mulberry and eri cultivation involving

2.6 lakh families in more than 10,000 villages of the State. While according to the 2012/2013

Economic Survey Report of Assam the State has 13 lakh handlooms which provide direct and indirect

employment to around 25 lakh people. Utilized properly this dormant potential can transform the

rural economy of Assam.

Even though every year both the State and Central governments initiate numerous schemes and

spend huge amounts for the development of sericulture and weaving, the results have beendisappointing. In 2011/2012 Assam produced a total of 2109 MT of raw silk as follows: Eri- 1976 MT,

Muga- 115 MT and Mulberry- 18 MT. However the efforts have been grossly inadequate given the

magnitude and gravity of the problem. Compare this to the fact that Assam had recorded a muga

production of 95 MT way back in 1957; or Karnatakas production of almost 10,000 MT of mulberry

silk annually; or new entrant Andhra Pradeshs annual output of mulberry silk of 4500 MT. Perhaps

the enormity of the situation may be better understood from the fact that Sualkuchi alone has a

yearly requirement of 2000 MT and 98 MT of mulberry and muga silk yarns respectively. Therefore

all out efforts are needed to increase the output of silk yarns, particularly mulberry and muga, in the

State.

For a start the entire sericulture and weaving sector must be better organized and streamlined fromthe grass-roots to the showroom so that the scope for the exploitation of farmers and weavers by

middle men is removed. Some measures which can make a significant difference are increasing the

acreage under sericulture, establishing modern infrastructure for sericulture and weaving, supply of

quality seeds and feeds for silk worms, regular lab to field projects to educate farmers and weavers

on scientific methods and new technology to improve quality and boost outputs, frequent grass-root

level awareness programs about government schemes and funds with a single window service to avail

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these facilities, soft loans to farmers and weavers from banks to undertake schemes etc. These are

some long term initiatives which if implemented properly can yield permanent results.

Agitations by beleaguered weavers for supply of subsidized yarns and free electricity, procurement of

finished products at remunerative prices by government agencies, banning of silk fabrics from

outside etc. are short terms measures that may provide temporary relief but will permanently cripplethe indigenous silk industry as a whole. In the era of globalization and an open market economy the

leitmotif should be more production and not more protection. To save Assam silk, perhaps Assam

needs a sericulture revolution involving small silk growers just like the small growers revolution in

tea.

Assam is the home of several types of silks, the most prominent and prestigious being Muga (Mooga or

Moonga as some pronounce), the golden silk found exclusively in this state. The texture is delicate, with

dainty designs and natural colors.

Muga silk is the product of the silkworm "Antherea assamensis" endemic to Assam. The pupa of these

silkworms feed on "som" ("Machilus bombycina") and "sualu" ("Litsaea polyantha") leaves. The silk

produced is known for its glossy fine texture and durability. Due to its low porosity the Muga yarn cannot

be bleached nor dyed and its natural golden color is retained. This silk can be hand-washed with its luster

increasing after every wash. Very often the silk outlives its owner.

Apart from Muga silk, there is Pat (Assam Silk) and Eri or Endi, the latter being used to manufacture

warm clothes for winter. The silk commonly found in Assam is non-mulberry silk. Pat which is mulberry

silk is found in small quantities. Endi is yellowish in color and is found in rough and smooth varieties.

Pat silk is produced by silkworms which feed on mulberry (Morus spp.) leaves. It is usually brilliant white

or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow.

The Muga unique silk is mostly found in Assam only. The reason is - Muga Silk Worms cannot survive in

any climate other than that of Assam or North East. Muga, the golden silk, produced by silkworms are

native only to Assam and nowhere in the world.

Assam is the home of several types of silks, the most prominent and prestigious being muga, the golden silk foundexclusively in this state. The main centre in Assam for silk-weaving is Sualkuchi. The texture is delicate, with dainty

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designs and natural colours. Sualkuchi is a medieval town and was perhaps the first urban settlement in Assam.Sualu is the tree from which the leaves are fed to the Muga Silkworm Antherea assama; and Kuchi means cluster.Every household in Sualkuchi is involved in the silk trade. Before the advent of cheap calico textiles, silk (either rawor wrought) was an important article of production.Women of all strata of Assamese society (even today) from theQueen downwards used to weave at their loom.

The weaving tradition in this village can be traced to the 11thcentury when king Dharma Pal, of the Pal Dynasty,

sponsored the craft and brought 26thweaving families from Tantikuchi to sualkuchi. The village took shape as aweaving village when the SHAMS occupied Sualkuchi defeating the Mughals in the 17

thcentury. Assam silk denotes

the three major types of indigenous silks produced in Assam; golden Muga, white Pat and warm Eri silk. The Assamsilk industry, now centered in Sualkuchi, is a labor intensive industry.

Muga silk is the product of the silkworm "Antherea assamensis" endemic to Assam. The pupa of these silkwormsfeed on "som" ("Machilus bombycina") and "sualu" ("Litsaea polyantha") leaves. The silk produced is known for itsglossy fine texture and durability

Due to its low porosity the Muga yarn cannot be bleached nor dyed and its natural golden color is retained. This silkcan be hand-washed with its luster increasing after every wash. Very often the silk outlives its owner. Assam hasreceived a geographical indication for the production of Muga. Pat silk is produced by silkworms which feed onmulberry leaves. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow. Eri silk is made by"Philosamia ricini" which feed on castor leaves. It is also known as Endi or Errandi silk. Due to the fact that

manufacturing process of Eri allows the pupae to develop into adults and only the open ended cocoons are used forturning into silk, it is also popularly known as non-violent silk. This silk is soft and warm and is popular as shawls andquilts.

Sualkuchi is still special place to visit as even today every household in this town has a loom working. Extraction ofthe silk yarn from Muga cocoons using traditional methods can be seen in Sualkuchi. The cocoons are brought fromUpper Assam and the Garo hills.

The state of Assam is one of the striking regions of India. There is hardly any other state which has greater varietyand colour in its natural scenario and in the cultural treasures of the people that inhabit it. Sualkuchi combines theethnic setting of weaving skills in white and golden Assam silk, indigenously called Pat and Muga, together withagriculture and fishing in the neighbouring villages.

Handloom Weaving is a way of life and intensely linked with Assamese Culture and Heritage. Handloom Industry ofAssam is known for its rich tradition of making handloom and handicraft products. It also plays a very important role inthe socio-economic development of the State. Assam is a proud owner of more than 13.00 lakh looms out of the total28.00 lakh looms in the country. In spite of being intensely connected with the culture of the State, the HandloomIndustry has not flourished in commercial sphere to the required extent. At present about 2.80 lakh looms are beingutilised for commercial weaving in the true sense. About 5.70 lakh looms run semi-commercially and earningsubsidiary income. Rest are domestic looms and are run to meet the domestic requirements.

The cooperative coverage is about 33 percent of the States weaver population which is far below the Nationalcoverage. In the Eleventh Five Year Plan period the cooperative coverage has been targeted to increase to 45percent.

Sualkuchi, a village in the Kamrup district has been developed over the years as a major centre for commercialproduction of these indigenous fabrics especially the Pat and Muga silk. Sualkuchi is famous as the Manchester of

Assam and was established by Momai Tamuli Barbarua, a great administrator of the Ahom kingdom during the reignof Swargadeo Pratap Singha (1603-1641). Shri Barbarua set up this weavers village by shifting a large number ofmaster-weavers from all over the region to that village. This patronage led to the advancement and development ofsericulture in Assam.

This picturesque village on the banks of the river Brahmaputra is about 32 kms from Guwahati. Sualkuchi has apopulation of nearly 50,000 people, most of who are engaged in weaving magic on their looms. This village has anestimated 25,000 handlooms and produces nearly six million metres of white and golden Assam silk annually.

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Sualkuchi an ancient craft village-having silk-rearing and weaving communities, potters, goldsmiths and oil pressures.While silk-rearing vanished long time ago, the gani industry perished during the early the part of the last century asthe Mudois of Sualkuchi used to sell mustered seeds to the mill of Guwahati. Pottery and gold-smithy have alsovanished and the Kumars and goldsmiths have undertaken more income yielding weaving besides otherprofessions. The history of Sualkuchi was traced elsewhere by this writer to the 4th century BC on the basis ofKautilyas reference to Suvarnakudya of ancient Kamrupa where the best quality of Patrorna (pat) was produced.This Suvarnakudya of Arthasastra was probably known later on as Swarnakuchi- a village naow in the bed of the

Brahmaputra after the angle like bent of the river at Agiathuri was straightened towards Hatimura by Chilarai in 1562(and the river by side of Hajo gradually dried up) and the name Sualkuchi /Soalkuchi is guessed to be derived fromSwarnakuchi which in turn might have been derived from Suvarnakudya mentioned by Kautilya. The antiquity ofSualkuchi is also proved by the Asam Buranji by Gunabhiram Barua according to which the Basarioya (BasattarGharia) Brahmins of Sualkuchi were granted land by one king Dharmapal probably of the 10th century AD. Threechronicles also testify that three was a Tanti community who were weaving silk cloth and Momai Tamuli Bezbaruaand some other Ahom officials were punished by the Ahom King Pratap Singha for removing some Tanti families in1636 to other places during the second phase of the Ahom-Mughal war.

Eri Coocon to Cloth

Also known as Endi or Errandi, Eri is a multivoltine silk spun from open-ended cocoons, unlike other varieties of silk.Eri silk is the product of the domesticated silkworm, Philosamia ricini that feeds mainly on castor leaves. Ericulture isa household activity practiced mainly for protein rich pupae, a delicacy for the tribal. Resultantly, the eri cocoons are

open-mouthed and are spun. The silk is used indigenously for preparation of chaddars (wraps) for own use by thesetribals. In India, this culture is practiced mainly in the north-eastern states and Assam.

Muga Coocon to Cloth

This golden yellow colour silk is prerogative of India and the pride of Assam state. It is obtained from semi-domesticated multivoltine silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. These silkworms feed on the aromatic leaves of Somand Soalu plants and are reared on trees similar to that of tasar. Muga culture is specific to the state of Assam and anintegral part of the tradition and culture of that state. The muga silk, an high value product is used in products likesarees, mekhalas, chaddars, etc.

Mulberry Coocon to cloth

The bulk of the commercial silk produced in the world comes from this variety and often silk generally refers tomulberry silk. Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm, Bombyx mori L. which solely feeds on the leaves of mulberryplant. These silkworms are completely domesticated and reared indoors.