Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building Blocks

Chapter 6

Textile Fibers and Yarns

Objectives

• List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fibers

• Explain how fibers are marketed• Summarize the role of leather and

fur as primary materials in fashion• Describe new fiber innovations• Explain how fibers are made into

yarns

Fiber Categories• Natural

– Originate from natural sources– Plant (cellulosic) or animal

(protein)

• Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable)– Originate from chemical

sources– May also be from regenerated

or recycled sources

Natural Fibers

• Cellulosic (from plants)– Cotton

• From cotton plants

– Flax (linen) • From flax stems

• Protein (from animals)– Silk

• From cocoons of silkworms

– Wool • From fleece (hair) of

sheep or lambs

Textile Terms• Fibers

– Staple: short fibers• Usually characterizes

a natural fiber

– Filament: long continuous fibers• Usually characterizes

a synthetic fiber (except silk)

• Denier– Fiber thickness or

diameter

• Yarns– Fibers twisted

together– Ply refers to how

many yarns may be twisted together before weaving

• Fabrics– Yarns woven,

knitted, or fused together to create fabric

Cotton • Cellulosic fiber• From “bolls” (seed

pods) growing on bushes

• Comfortable• Soft and durable• Absorbent, cool to

wear• “Environmentally

friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors

Wool

• Protein fiber• From sheep• Worsted wool is

higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches)

• Natural insulator• Will shrink and

mat if washed

Flax (Linen)

• World’s oldest textile fiber

• Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant

• Stiff, wrinkles easily• Absorbent, cool to

wear in heat• Other uses

– Dish towels– Tablecloths

Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.

Other Natural Fibers

• Ramie• Jute• Sisal• Hemp• Raffia• Down

feathers• Hair fibers

from– Goats– Rabbits– Camels

Cellulosic Fibers

Protein Fibers

Marketing Natural Fibers

• Natural fiber trade associations:– Cotton Incorporated– National Cotton

Council– Wool Bureau, Inc.– Mohair Council of

America– International Silk

Association

• Provide fabric libraries

Natural Fibers r cool

Leather and Fur

• From hides or pelts (skins) of animals

• Expensive• Artificial substitutes

available (faux leather and fur)

• Leather used mainly for footwear

• Fur used for “prestige” apparel and accessories

Manufactured Fibers

• Process– Raw materials

melted or dissolved to form thick syrup

– Liquid extruded through spinneret

– Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers

Categories of Manufactured Fibers (generic groups)

• Generic group: a family of manufactured fibers with similar chemical composition

• Common generic fibers from chemical or petroleum products:– Polyester– Nylon– Olefin– Acrylic

• Variants: trade or brand names given to slightly modified generic fibers

• Example: ANTRON nylon used for hosiery

Manufactured Fibers

• Qualities that are unique or superior to natural fibers– Elasticity– Nonallergenic– Strength– Resistant to

abrasion

• Qualities that may be less than desirable– Feel clammy

because they are nonabsorbent

– Build up static electricity

– Susceptible to oil stains

Other Types of Other Types of Manufactured FibersManufactured Fibers

• Fibers that come from a plant (cellulosic) source; chemically altered to create new fibers (regenerated)– Rayon– Acetate and

Triacetate– Lyocell

Fiber Innovation and Trends

• Fibers are designed for specific end-uses

• Polymers (chemical compounds) are engineered to meet needs

• “Microfibers” are ultra-fine deniers that make softer, more luxurious fabrics

• Spandex added in fiber blends to make stretchable fabrics

Fiber Innovation and Trends (Cont.)

• Electro-conductive fibers protect wearers from harmful radiation

• Plastic soft drink bottles can be recycled into apparel

• Bio-based fibers developed from natural resources have better feel and moisture-control qualities

Marketing Manufactured Fibers

• Trademarked variants assure consumers of quality

• American Fiber Manufacturers Association helps inform the consumer, maintain government relations, and monitor foreign trade policy

Spinning Fibers into Yarns• Spinning draws,

twists, and winds staple, filament, or blends of both fibers into long, cohesive strands or yarns

• Yarns wound onto bobbins or spools

• Twist may vary, creating different yarn properties

Early 18th century spinning wheel

Yarn Terminology• Yarn blends

– Combining two or more fibers into a spun yarn

• Combination yarns – Contain two or more

plys of different fibers

• Textured yarns– Changing the surface

of a yarn using chemicals, heat, or machinery

Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns.

Do You Know . . .

• The American Yarn Spinners Association deals with the government on yarn-industry issues such as trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards.