Parallel Layers Male

8/13/2019 Parallel Layers Male

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Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Introduction

You need to take extra care when cutting short hair and sharp, definedhaircuts. The client's hairline and hair-growth patterns are more obvious and

mistakes are easier to see.

There are specific factors you should look out for during the client analysisstage that can have a strong influence on the way you cut men's hair and thesort of finished look you can achieve.

Facial hair Side burns

Ears

Partings


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Step 1 of 30 - Before you cut

To achieve the right haircut for yourclient, it is very important to lookcarefully at their features - theshape of their face; hair-growthpatterns; quantity and quality ofhair.

You should check all these as part of

your client consultation.


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Step 2 of 30 - Hairlines

As part of your client consultation, andbefore you start your haircut, it is also

important to check your client's hairlines.You should do this when the hair is dry andagain when the hair is wet aftershampooing.

Not everyone has a perfect hairline somake sure you check for uneven growth

and awkward, moving shapes.

There are four areas to look at:

Front

Sides

Nape

Crown

This slide shows the front hairline.


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Step 3 of 30 - Hairline, side

This is the side hairline.


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Step 4 of 30 - Hairline, nape

This is the nape hairline


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Step 5 of 30 The crown

Check the crown area.



Step 6 of 30 - Profile line

Take a profile line from the front hairlineto the back of the crown. This should be

taken from either side of the centralparting and should be about the width ofyour finger.

Make sure that this section is central. Thiswill be the guideline you use for the rest of

your haircut.

Your profile linedetermines thelength of yourcut. More

importantly, italso determinesthe balance.



Step 7 of 30 - Layering, parallel

Take your guideline from the fringe length.Hold the hair up at a 90-degree angle to

the head at all times.

Our stylist is using parallel layering.

Tip: The length of your client's previoushaircut will determine the finished look youare able to achieve.



Step 8 of 30 - Layering

Cutting against your profile line andholding the hair at a 90-degree angle to

the head, work backwards towards thecrown.

When you are layering hair it is best tostand on the opposite side to the side youare cutting. This gives you more control

and allows you to see your guideline moreclearly.

Tip: The client's head should be in an

upright position at all times. Andremember to keep the hair wet throughout

your cut.



Step 9 of 30 - Top box section

Split the top area into three box sections.

Your first box is the top box section. Take ahorizontal guideline from the centre of thetop box section.

Blend in your guideline, starting at the backof the crown. Hold the hair up at a 90-

degree angle from the head and work inhorizontal lines across the head.



Step 10 of 30 - Top box section

Work from the crown area towards thefront hairline.

As you progress towards the front hairline,pull back the final front section to meetyour previous section. This will maintainlength at the front.

It is very important to work cleanly. If yourguidelines are clear, you can follow themmore easily and you will create cleanercutting lines.



Step 11 of 30 - Box sections 2 and 3

To create your second and third boxes youdivide the hair into two further sections.

First, split the top box area in half. This willgive you your guideline for box 2.

When you have cut box 2, divide thatsection in half down towards the ear. This

will give you your guideline for the sidehairlines.

To create parallellayers, alwayshold the hair at a90-degree angleaway from thehead.

Tip: Creating three box sectionsat the front area gives you morecontrol and allows you to see

your guideline at all stages ofyour haircut.



Step 12 of 30 - Box 2

Using the guideline you created in the topbox, blend the hair into your second box.

Keep the hair at 90 degrees from the headand make sure you are following yourguideline.



Step 13 of 30 - Box 3

Using your guideline from box 2, blend thehair into box 3. Pull the hair parallel and

work downwards towards the ear section.Remember:

keep the hair wet at all times;

follow your guideline;

make clean, even sections; and

ensure the client's head is in an uprightposition.


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Step 14 of 30 - Box section

As you start to blend boxes 2 and 3together, work forwards towards your

hairline.

Remember to pull back the hair at the fronthairline to maintain length.


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Step 15 of 30 - Box section, other side

Repeat the same procedure on the otherside of the head. Remember to:

split the top box area in half to create box 2;

split box 2 in half to create box 3;

work forward from the crown to the fronthairline;

pull back the hair at the front to maintainlength;

keep an even tension within your haircut;

keep the hair wet as you are cutting; and

hold the hair parallel to the head.


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Step 16 of 30 - Cross-check front area

When you have created a style within yourhaircut, you need to check across both

sides to make sure your cut is balancedand even.

If you cut the hair horizontally, you mustcross-check vertically.

If you cut the hair vertically, you mustcross-check horizontally.

Our stylist is checking the hair horizontallybecause this section has been cut vertically.

You want to take off the barest minimum ofhair when you are cross-checking.

If you find you are taking off a lot of hair,you did not cut the hair at the correctangle.


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Step 17 of 30 - Blend in crown area

Take a semi-circular section from the frontof the crown to the bottom of the crown.

This section will allow you to blend in thetop section with the back area.

Dividing your haircut into sections will helpyou follow your guidelines and keep a

check on the shape of your haircut.


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Step 18 of 30 - Crown area

Take your guideline from the profile lineyou created at the top of the crown.

Blend into the crown, working out from thecentre of your section to the back of thecrown.

Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the head

and make parallel cuts.

Tip: Check the crownarea at theconsultation stage.Some clients will have

double crowns. If youcut double crownsshort, the hair willstick up. (You cancompensate for this byleaving more length atthe crown.)


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Angle your section out from the centre ofthe crown towards the back of your section.

Keep the hair wet at all time and work withclean lines.


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Repeat the same procedure on the otherside of the head, paying particular

attention to:

your guidelines;

your sectioning pattern;

the balance of the cut;

your standing position; and

keeping the hair wet.


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Step 21 of 30 - Cross-check crown area

As you create a haircut, you should bechecking all the time to make sure your cut

is balanced and even.

If you cut the hair horizontally, you mustcross-check vertically.

If you cut the hair vertically, you must

cross-check horizontally

You want to take off the barest minimum ofhair when you are cross-checking.

If you find you are taking off a lot of hair,

you did not cut the hair at the correct anglein the first place.


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Step 22 of 30 - Blend down into the nape

Take a profile line down the centre of thehead from the bottom of the crown to the

nape hairline.

Your profile can be taken either side ofyour centre point. It should be one fingerwide.

Tip: Your profile line must becentral. It is there to help youachieve a balance between bothsides of your haircut.


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Step 23 of 30 - Back area

Work outwards from the profile line at thebottom of the crown towards the back of

the ear.

Hold the hair parallel to the head andblend in the hair from the back area,cutting it to the same length as your profileline.


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Step 24 of 30 - Back area

Our stylist is working down towards thenape area, holding the hair parallel to the

head shape.

Pivot your sections down towards the napearea.

As you work down, the client's head should

be in a slightly downward position. This willmake it much easier for you to create yourangle.

Tip: When you are layering,

always stand on the oppositeside to the one you are cutting.

You will have more control andbe able to see your guidelinemore clearly.


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Step 25 of 30 - Back of the ear

Our stylist started at the centre point and isworking outwards towards the back of the

ear.

As you do this, the fan-like sections you arecreating will become more apparent.

Repeat the same procedure on the other

side.


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Step 26 of 30 - Cross-check, back area

As you cut the second side, check to makesure your cut is balanced and even.

You should be checking the balance of yourhaircut regularly as you work.

And remember:

if you cut the hairhorizontally, youmust cross-checkvertically; but

if you cut the hair

vertically, youmust cross-checkhorizontally.


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Step 27 of 30 - Finishing, nape area

Now that you have completed theperimeter, you can personalise your

haircut.

With this style, you could blunt cut or pointcut into the hair at the nape, side and frontareas. Point cutting will eliminate excesslength and give you a soft-looking result.

Tip: No one can teach you how topersonalise your haircuts. This is

when you will use your own

creativity and ideas.


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Step 28 of 30 - Finishing, side area


haircut.



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Step 29 of 30 - Finishing, front area


haircut.



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Step 30 of 30 - Finished result

As you can see from our finished result, wehave created an even weight distribution,

therefore enabling the hair to move acrossthe head, creating different finishedresults.

Parallel Layers Male

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