PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Yellowstone & Grand Teton ................ 220 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18If You Like... ..................... 20Month by Month ............. 23Itineraries ........................ 25Activities ......................... 29Travel with Children ....... 41 Travel with Pets .............. 45Regions at a Glance ....... 48

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND YELLOWSTONE & GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARKS

The Parks Today ............. 228History ............................. 230Geology ........................... 239Wildlife ............................ 244Conservation .................. 253

Created by the Yellowstone National Park Act (1872) as a ‘public park tor pleasuring-ground for the bene t and enjoyment of the people,’ thismother of all national parks straddles a tense line between preservation and recreation, access and excess, encapsulating along the way the very best and worst of the national parks system.

Loved to Death Yellowstone and Grand Teton are more popular than ever, each attractingup to 30,000 visitors daily and more than three million visitors annually –a volume that writer Edward Abbey termed ‘industrial tourism.’ Whenbison or elk graze by the Grand Loop Rd, the result is close to a mob scene, with tra c backing up for hundreds of yards. Debate rages over how estto manage this in ux. While the democratic approach to pu ic access remains the parks’ greatest strength, their great appeal ironically threatensto estro the very features that attract such num ers

he number of k in Yellowstone s dropped 70% since wolves ere introduced

in 1995

TIN

G

WyomingMontana USA

population per sq mile

≈ 1 person

IAL E

XP

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ATIO

NS

1872 President Ulysses S Grant signs the

Yellowstone National Park Act on March 1;

1877 Philetus W Norris

becomes park superintendent and

builds the rst roads;

1883 Railroad spur line

nished to Cinnabar, near north entrance of

Yellowstone National

1890 First tourist guidebook

to Yellowstone published; Wyoming

becomes the 44th

, y glorers. After the decline in the beaver trade, many mountain mename army scouts or tourist guides.

cial ExplorationsUS efeat of Mexico in the 1846 48 Mexican War yielded a bounty

new Western territory to explore. The US Corps of Topographicalgineers, guided by ex-trapper Jim Bridger, attempted to explore theowstone Plateau from the south in 1860, but snow-covered mountainses ut the kibosh on their journey.n the fall of 1869, the private three-member Folsom-Cook-Petersone ition headed south from Bozeman, Montana, for a month to ex-re the divide between the Gallatin and Yellowstone Rivers. They madeast the Grand Canyon and Yellowstone Lake as far south as Shoshonee and returned in ne fettle to write a popular magazine article that

ueled interest in exploration among the Eastern establishment. Uponnessing a 150ft eruption of Great Fountain Geyser in the Fireholee region, the team wrote: ‘We could not contain our enthusiasm; withaccord we all took o our hats and yelled with all our might!’

With considerable foresight, Cook wrote ‘We knew that as soon as thenderful character of the country was generally known outside thereuld be plenty of people hurrying in to get possession, unless some-ng was done.’Folsom, Cook and Peterson gained enough notoriety to be invitedng for the landmark 1870 Washburn-Langford-Doane expedition,

rolled primarily by the Northern Paci c Railroad, which was seek-a route across the Montana Territory and publicity to attract inves- an tourists. The 19-man party, led by former Montana tax collectorhanie Langford and Montana Surveyor-General Henry Washburn,

Mountain Men by George Laycock,

which provides in-dividual portraits

of John Colter, Jim Bridger,

Jedediah Smith and others, and gives an insight into the craft of

trapping.

MO

UN

TAIN

M

EN

Yellowstone Yellowstone National Park is the crown jewel of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and the destination of nearly every visitor to the region. The real showstoppers are the geysers and hot springs – nature’s crowd pleasers – but at every turn this land of re and brimstone breathes, belches and

bubbles like a giant kettle on the boil. The park’s highways traverse these geysers, through meadows and forests, past road-side herds of bison and campsites aromatic with pine needles and family camp res. In between lies the country’s largest collection of elk, the continent’s oldest, largest wild bi-son herds and a pristine wilderness roamed by wolves, grizzlies, moose and antelope.

Grand Teton & Beyond South of Yellowstone is Grand Teton Na-tional Park, probably the most famous natural skyline in the United States and the nation’s most iconic mountain range. These vertical peaks, re ected in a string of gorgeous glacial lakes, come the closest to most people’s picture-postcard image of alpine splendor and will send a shiver of excitement down the spine of even the least vertically inclined. Opportunities to venture into the back-country abound in both parks, whether it’s on foot, horseback, boat, ski or snowshoe. Buckle up and climb the Tetons, canoe around sublime Shoshone Lake, mountain bike to the summit views of Mt Washburn

There’s nowhere in the world quite like Greater Yellowstone. From its raging geysers to howling wolf packs, the land stands alone as one last pocket of a wild, primeval America.

welcome to Yellowstone & Grand Teton

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

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227GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

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RIES

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•Yellowstone

NationalPark

Mt Washburn

ascade LakePicnic Area

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NorrisGeyserBasin

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Yellowstone in a Day–the Northern LoopYellowstone in a Day–the Southern Loop

#•Grand Canyon ofthe Yellowstone

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#•Porcelain

Basin

#•Firehole

SwimmingArea

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HaydenValley

ShoshoneLake

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One DayYellowstone Loop, North

This route through the north of the park takes in some premier wildlife-watching, views of the Grand Canyon and a sampler of geysers and hot

springs. You can join this loop anywhere but you’ll need to start early and stay out late to t it all in.

Head straight to the Lamar Valley around dawn to look for wolves, coyotes or bison. Grab a Hiker’s Breakfast at Roo-sevelt Lodge then drive up to Dunraven Pass to make the three- to four-hour return hike up Mt Washburn for the park’s best views. Picnic amid the pines at shady Cas-cade Lake picnic area or grab lunch on the go at Canyon.

Gawp at the thundering falls and rusted colors of the Grand Canyon of the Yel-lowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point on the southern rim road, before driv-ing across the Solfatara Plateau to the gey-sers and hot springs of superheated Norris Geyser Basin. Then swing north towards Mammoth, stopping en route to watch for afternoon moose at Willow Park. Stroll the boardwalks at dusk to admire surreal Palette Springs and Canary Springs at Mammoth Hot Springs, before collapsing in the bar for a well-deserved Old Faithful Ale.

One DayYellowstone Loop, South

The southern loop takes in epic Yel-lowstone Lake, the park’s greatest geysers and a dip in the Firehole River. You can also start this loop at

West Yellowstone, adding on 28 miles. For a two-day trip combine the northern and southern loop options to take in most of the park’s roadside highlights.

Wake up by Yellowstone Lake and join the birds on a lakeshore stroll. Drive west from West Thumb up over the Continen-tal Divide before descending into Geyser Country. Check predicted eruption times at the visitor center to catch Old Faithful and another of the Upper Geyser Basin spouters. Head north to Midway Geyser Basin and ad-mire Grand Prismatic Spring, blowing o steam with the kids in the thermally heated Firehole Swimming Area further north.

Continue north to the Porcelain Basin hot springs at Norris, grabbing a picnic lunch at peaceful Norris Meadows picnic area, before swinging east to savor views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point. Swing south through the Hayden Valley for some prime sunset wildlife-watching be-fore returning to enjoy the park’s best food at Lake Yellowstone Hotel Dining Room.

26

888

Paddling the Teton’s Alpine Lakes 3 Whether soloing in a kayak or bundling

the family into a canoe, paddling is a great way to glide into nature at your own pace. When your arms tire, shore up on empty beaches for a picnic or a swim. With a permit you can also backcountry camp. Jackson Lake is the Teton’s biggest lake; families might pre-fer to manage the smaller scale of Leigh and String Lakes. For an adventurous multi-day alternative in Yellowstone, try gorgeous Shos-hone Lake, the region’s largest backcountry lake. String Lake, below

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 4 The sublime canyon colors and dramatic

308ft drop of the Lower Falls are the big draws of Yellowstone’s very own grand canyon (p 65 ). There are several di erent ways to view the canyon: get close to the drop-o at the Brink of the Lower Falls, take in the big picture at Artist Point or descend on steps to feel the spray on your face at Uncle Tom’s. Best of all, take the rim’s hiking trails to appreciate the views away from the car and the crowds.

HO

LGE

R LEU

E / LON

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LAN

ET IM

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ES ©

3

Wildlife To spot a grizzly, wolf or bighorn sheep you need to know the terrain, the season and the workings of an animal’s brain. Then again, you’ll probably see bison, elk or even a bear without even undoing your seatbelt. Lamar and Hayden Valleys Big herds of bison, wolf packs and the occasional grizzly make these Yellowstone’s prime animal hangouts. Join a ranger for wildlife-watching in Hayden (p 62 )

Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center, West Yellowstone Didn’t see a grizzly or wolf in the park? Don’t despair you’re guaranteed an up-close sighting

Thermal Features For many, Yellowstone’s big-gest draw is its otherworldly collection of spouters, gush-ers, bubblers and burpers, which together constitute over three quarters of the world’s weirdest thermal features. Old Faithful The iconic old gey-ser isn’t the biggest or the most beautiful in Yellowstone, but it is impressive and dependable. Try to view it from various angles, including Observation Hill (p 81 )

Grand Prismatic Spring Simply put, the park’s most beautiful thermal feature, a swimming-pool-sized spring ringed by an incredible array of rainbow

Scenic Drives There’s hardly a mile in Yellowstone country that isn’t pull-o -the-road, drop-dead gorgeous. If we had to choose our favorite drives, these are the ones that make us almost happy to pay park prices for our gas. Beartooth Hwy An astounding drive above the tree line from Red Lodge to Cooke City, known as the most scenic road in America (p 139 )

Gallatin Valley Blending scenes from Robert Redford’s A River Runs Through It with twin mountain ranges and some lovely ranchlands (p 162 )

Paradise Valley Rolling ranchlands and snowy peaks

if you like…

20

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

This ediTion wriTTen and researched by

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YellowstoneNational Park

p52

AroundYellowstone

p133

Grand TetonNationalParkp173Around

Grand Tetonp209

Your complete destination guide

in-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

Survival Guide

directory a–Z ................. 256transportation ............... 266Health & safety .............. 271clothing & equipment ... 278index ................................ 286map legend .................... 295

Vital practical information to

Help You HaVe a smootH trip

On the rOad

CLOTH

ING & EQ

UIPMEN

T STO

VES

& FU

EL

279

Stoves & Fuel When buying a stove, think lightweight and easy to oper-ate. Most outdoors stores sell and rent stoves. Butane stoves are the easiest to operate. Multifuel stoves are versatile but need pumping, priming and lots of cleaning.

In general, liquid fuels are effi cient and cheap; look for high-performance, cleaner-burning fuel. Gas is more expensive, cleaner and a reasonable performer. When using canisters be sure to pack yours out. Fuel can be found at outdoor gear shops, hardware stores (white gas) and some super-markets.

Airlines prohibit am-mable materials and may well reject empty liquid-fuel bottles or even the stoves themselves.

Water Puri ers & Tablets Mountain streams may look crystal clear, but with the prevalence of bacteriologi-cal contamination, sipping from the source has become a thing of the past. Boiling water rapidly for 10 minutes is eff ective, but uses precious fuel.

When buying a lter, note that giardia requires a lter with a rating of 1.0 to 4.0 microns and E Coli requires a micro lter rating 0.2 to 1.0 microns. When ltering, go for clear water in the cur-rent of a stream instead of stagnant water and avoid silty water. A Steripen (laser-based puri er) is a useful alternative.

The two-step iodine tab-lets come with a neutralizing tablet that improves the taste. If you don’t plan to be in the backcountry often, these tablets are the most convenient solution.

For more on water puri- cation, see the boxed text p ### .

Buying & Renting Locally A hotbed for outdoor-gear innovation and consumption, the Rocky Mountain area off ers high-quality products, though in-park selection is usually poor.

All winter resorts have good rental shops with ski, snowboard and Nordic

equipment, as well as moun-tain bikes in summer. Most have a program to ‘demo’ new equipment models.

More listings can be found in town sections.

Grand Teton National Park & Around Outside the park, Jackson Hole has a number of out-door shops selling and rent-ing gear.

CHECKLIST The following is a general guideline. Know yourself and what special items you may need on the trail.

CLOTHING » boots » camp shoes/sandals » gaiters hat (warm),

scarf and gloves » jacket (waterproof) » rain pants (waterproof) » shorts and trousers » socks and underwear » sun hat » sweater or fleece jacket » thermal underwear » wicking T-shirt

EQUIPMENT » backpack and trash-bag

liner » bear spray » clip-seal plastic bags » first-aid kit (see p ### ) » flashlight or headlamp,

spare batteries and bulb » food, snacks (high

energy) and one day’s emergency supplies » insect repellent » map and compass » pocketknife » sunglasses » sunscreen and lip balm » survival bag or blanket » toilet paper and trowel

» water container » whistle

OVERNIGHT HIKES » bear canister » cooking, eating and

drinking utensils » dishwashing items » matches and lighter » sewing/repair kit » sleeping bag and liner » sleeping mat (and if

inflatable, patch kit) » spare cord » stove and fuel » tent, pegs, poles and

ropes » toiletries » towel » water filter, purification

tablets or drops

OPTIONAL ITEMS » altimeter » bathing suit » binoculars » camera, film/charger

and batteries » candle » emergency distress

beacon » GPS receiver » groundsheet » hiking poles » mosquito net » notebook and pen » watch

page

50

page

255

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK . . . . 52SIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Mammoth Country . . . . . . . 57Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . .62Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . .65Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . .70Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . . 78Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . . .88DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Mammoth Country . . . . . . .89Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . .92Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . .95Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . .98Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100Geyser Country . . . . . . . . .100Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . .104OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 105Canyon Country . . . . . . . . .106Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . .108Geyser Country . . . . . . . . .109Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . . 112CYCLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114Mammoth Country . . . . . . 114Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 115Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . 115Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 116OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . .116SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Mammoth Country . . . . . . 122Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . 123Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 123

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . 125Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 126Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . . 127EATING & DRINKING . . . . 128Mammoth Country . . . . . . 128Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . 128Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 128Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 129Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . .130SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 130GETTING AROUND . . . . . . .131

AROUND YELLOWSTONE . . . . . 133BEARTOOTH ROUTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Billings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Red Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Beartooth Highway . . . . . . 139Chief Joseph Scenic Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Cooke City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143WAPITI ROUTE . . . . . . . . . . 144Cody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Wapiti Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 149PARADISE VALLEY ROUTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Livingston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Paradise Valley . . . . . . . . . . 151Gardiner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154GALLATIN ROUTE . . . . . . . 158Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Gallatin Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 162

Hebgen & Quake Lakes . . . 165West Yellowstone . . . . . . . . 167

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK . . . 173SIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . . 178Colter Bay Region . . . . . . . 179The Eastern Slopes . . . . . . 182Central Tetons. . . . . . . . . . . 182Moose–Wilson Road . . . . . 184DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Colter Bay Region . . . . . . . 188Central Tetons. . . . . . . . . . . 189Moose–Wilson Road . . . . . 193John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . . 194OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 194Central Tetons. . . . . . . . . . . 195CYCLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197SUMMER ACTIVITIES . . . . 198WINTER ACTIVITIES . . . . . 200SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . 202Colter Bay Region . . . . . . 202Eastern Slopes . . . . . . . . . 204Central Tetons. . . . . . . . . . 205Moose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206EATING & DRINKING . . . . 206John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . 206Colter Bay Region . . . . . . 206

Central Tetons. . . . . . . . . . .207Moose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 208GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 208

AROUND GRAND TETON . . . . . . . . . . . 209Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Jackson Hole . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Upper Wind River Valley . .223Idaho’s Teton Valley . . . . . .223

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure; in 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Bradley Mayhew Coordinating Author, Yellowstone National Park, Around Yellowstone An expat Brit, Bradley currently calls Yellowstone County, Montana home and he hikes nearby Yellowstone Park and the Beartooth Mountains every chance he gets. Half a lifetime of travels through Central Asia, Tibet and Mongolia has made him feel quite at home in Big Sky country. He is the coordinating author of a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Central Asia and Trekking

in the Nepal Himalaya. See what he’s up to at www.bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Carolyn McCarthy Grand Teton National Park, Around Grand Teton When not strolling the wildfl ower meadows of Grand Teton scanning for grizzly scat, author Carolyn McCarthy makes her home in Chile. In the last seven years she has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles. She has also written for National Geographic, Outside, and Lonely Planet Magazine, among other publications. You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Read more about Bradley at:lonelyplanet.com/members/nepalibrad

Read more about Carolyn at:lonelyplanet.com/members/carolynmcc

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 407 6 © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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