OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT BERNERA, Creag Liam ... · OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT...
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OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT BERNERA, Creag Liam: Bridge Builder 20m E5 6b **. Dave MacLeod, Tim Emmett. 2 Jun 2010. The arete left of The Prow, gained from a logical approach from the right (especially in high seas). Start right of the crack of The Prow. Move leftwards across the wall on big holds and up to a bulge on the arete. Climb over this, just right of the arete (crux) to better holds above. SEANNA CHNOC: A guide by Paul Headland, Keith Archer, Tom Oaks and Paul Bradbeer: Seanna Chnoc or Old Hill (NB 116 434) is one of a small group of islands lying wonderfully at the head of Loch Roag, approx 4.5km NNW of Campus Bostadh. Access is by boat; enquiries should be made at Circebost pier. There is no naturally occurring water on the island and provisions should be included for an enforced stay. On the authors’ first visit landing was only possible at one location (the tip of the rib forming Geodha Acairsaid) with only a slight swell. If seas are high it is unlikely be possible to land at this location and the large platform at the base of the exit slabs could be used. Access to the routes is described from the camp site used on the first visit, which is at the top of the large rocky rib second from the northern tip of the island. Areas are described anti-clockwise around the island. Big Slab Area: From the campsite, scrabble down the wide rocky rib directly to the north. On the eastern side of this approximately halfway down is a small flat area which lay directly at the apex of the slabs. A 50m abseil is required to sea-washed ledges. Matty Boy 60m HVS 5a *. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 7 Jun 2010. From the bottom of the abseil, traverse left 10m to a scoop 3m above sea-level. Climb the bulges above past a long ledge on the right to a stance at 30m. Traverse left for 12m into the corner, then bridge up the steep corner to the top. More Than Even Clowns 45m Severe 4a. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 7 Jun 2010. Flake and slab climbing on great rock. From a large ledge above the sea, trend leftwards up the large-stepped flake to a comfortable stance at 25m. Continue up and slightly right on the slab with good holds, finishing near the abseil point. Two Oceans 40m E1 5b **. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 7 Jun 2010. Follow directly the line of the abseil, initially on the bold slab until the halfway ledge. From the ledge climb a small overhang to the well cracked wall above; climb this direct. The Lamps we Lit 47m E1 5b ***. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 7 Jun 2010. From the same start as Two Oceans. Gain the right-trending weakness and follow it for a few metres, but then go directly up to the halfway ledge. From here go up to a short corner below the overlap, pull directly through this and continue direct. When too Much is Just Enough 48m VS 5a ***. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 7 Jun 2010. From the bottom of the abseil, climb 2m back up the gully on to the broken right- trending ramp-line. Follow this to within 8m of its end and climb a short slab to the large halfway ledge. Climb the upper slab directly to finish. Geodha Acairsaid:
Transcript of OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT BERNERA, Creag Liam ... · OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT...
OUTER ISLES
LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, GREAT BERNERA, Creag Liam:Bridge Builder 20m E5 6b **. Dave MacLeod, Tim Emmett. 2 Jun 2010.The arete left of The Prow, gained from a logical approach from the right (especially in high seas). Start right of the crack of The Prow. Move leftwards across the wall on big holds and up to a bulge on the arete. Climb over this, just right of the arete (crux) to better holds above.
SEANNA CHNOC:A guide by Paul Headland, Keith Archer, Tom Oaks and Paul Bradbeer:Seanna Chnoc or Old Hill (NB 116 434) is one of a small group of islands lying wonderfully at the head of Loch Roag, approx 4.5km NNW of Campus Bostadh. Access is by boat; enquiries should be made at Circebost pier. There is no naturally occurring water on the island and provisions should be included for an enforced stay. On the authors’ first visit landing was only possible at one location (the tip of the rib forming Geodha Acairsaid) with only a slight swell. If seas are high it is unlikely be possible to land at this location and the large platform at the base of the exit slabs could be used.Access to the routes is described from the camp site used on the first visit, which is at the top of the large rocky rib second from the northern tip of the island. Areas are described anti-clockwise around the island.
Big Slab Area:From the campsite, scrabble down the wide rocky rib directly to the north. On the eastern side of this approximately halfway down is a small flat area which lay directly at the apex of the slabs. A 50m abseil is required to sea-washed ledges.
Matty Boy 60m HVS 5a *. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 7 Jun 2010.From the bottom of the abseil, traverse left 10m to a scoop 3m above sea-level. Climb the bulges above past a long ledge on the right to a stance at 30m. Traverse left for 12m into the corner, then bridge up the steep corner to the top.
More Than Even Clowns 45m Severe 4a. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 7 Jun 2010.Flake and slab climbing on great rock. From a large ledge above the sea, trend leftwards up the large-stepped flake to a comfortable stance at 25m. Continue up and slightly right on the slab with good holds, finishing near the abseil point.
Two Oceans 40m E1 5b **. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 7 Jun 2010.Follow directly the line of the abseil, initially on the bold slab until the halfway ledge. From the ledge climb a small overhang to the well cracked wall above; climb this direct.
The Lamps we Lit 47m E1 5b ***. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 7 Jun 2010.From the same start as Two Oceans. Gain the right-trending weakness and follow it for a few metres, but then go directly up to the halfway ledge. From here go up to a short corner below the overlap, pull directly through this and continue direct.
When too Much is Just Enough 48m VS 5a ***. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 7 Jun 2010.From the bottom of the abseil, climb 2m back up the gully on to the broken right-trending ramp-line. Follow this to within 8m of its end and climb a short slab to the large halfway ledge. Climb the upper slab directly to finish.
Geodha Acairsaid:
From the camp site, scrabble down the wide rocky rib directly to the north, almost to the tip of the rib. From near the tip traverse west on large ledges to the base of the first route. Traverse sea-washed ledges to gain the other routes.
Sing to you of Northern Lights 15m E1 5b **. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 8 Jun 2010.Takes the steep wall left of the square-cut recess which Wuthering Dykes climbs. Sustained climbing up the thin crack on the first wall which is reached. Pass under the top overhang on the left.
Wuthering Dykes 28m Very Difficult. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 6 Jun 2010.Start from the ledge in a square-cut recess. Follow the walls above the ramped chimney line.
Mr Pinkwhistle Climbs a Route 20m VS 5a. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 8 Jun 2010.The following two routes climb the outside wall of the chimney which Wuthering Dykes takes. Climb the left-hand side of the short wall 10m above the sea-level ledges, trending rightwards to a wide ledge at 12m from the ledge. Continue up the crozzly crack.
The World According to Pie 20m VS 5a. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 8 Jun 2010.Start 3m right of the previous route. Climb the crack in the wall to the wide ledge at 12m. Climb the crozzly crack to finish.
Eric’s Route 26m Severe 4a. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 6 Jun 2010.Start from the far left of the long sea-level ledge and take the obvious right-trending shallow gully. Come back in towards the left near the top. Good holds throughout.
First Time Buyer 27m VS 4c. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. Jun 2010.Start on the ledge 3m above sea-level and climb up to the scoop. Step right and continue up to a triangular ledge. Follow the left-trending crack-line to a broad shelf. Climb the easier wall to the top.
Seal Placenta Surprise 28m E1 5a *. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 6 Jun 2010.Follow the sea-level ledges to their end at a short ramped pedestal. Climb a rising traverse into the large left-facing corner which opens into a wide slab. Climb the slab to a niche; continue up the rugosity and cracks above.
Black Slab Area:From the campsite head west towards the summit of the island. Before the summit is reached take a wide grassy gully, level at first and which leads to the second wide rocky rib. Scramble down the rib to a point on the eastern side just above the large black slab. From here a short abseil can be used to access the large tidal platform at the base of Black Slab. Penny Black takes the line of the abseil. Traversing the wide sea-washed platform will access the further routes.
Gone to Find the North Star 30m HVS 5a **. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 8 Jun 2010.Start in the square-cut bay and climb the centre of the slabby scoop to a steep wall at the top. Traverse right below the wall and up a short right-facing corner to finish.
Pendulum Crack 28m VS 4c. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 8 Jun 2010.From the sea shelf, climb the straight crack for 15m. Negotiate the overlap (crux) and follow the remainder of the crack to a ledge.
The Worst Witch 28m HVS 5a. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 8 Jun 2010.
Start 2m right of the previous route up a wall with a series of overlapped slabs. Climb these direct to a steepening near the top and pass this on the right to finish.
Slow Road to Ruin 30m Very Difficult. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks, 08/06/10.Start about 3m right of The Worst Witch and follow the cracks and narrow gully. Take the wall on the left after 25m to finish.
Black Slab Arete 11m VS 4c *. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 8 Jun 2010.The obvious arete on the left of the slab is enjoyable at a friendly grade.
Ali Baba 11m VS 4b. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 8 Jun 2010.The route follows the obvious crack-line on the left of the slab. Start from the second crack from the left at the very foot of the slab. Trend slightly leftwards after about 4m, and follow the finger crack all the way to the top.
Penny Black 12m VS 4c. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 8 Jun 2010.Start left of the central crack and climb the short slab to gear. Continue direct on good holds.
Two Fingers Area:From the campsite, head past the summit of the island and descent the sloping north-western side to locate the prominent “Two Fingers” at the north-western corner of the island by scrambling down rocky ledges. Descend to the front of the fingers and pass through the cave formed by the fingers.
Hailing Genie 12m VS 5a. Paul Bradbeer, Tom Oaks. 6 Jun 2010.This takes a direct, and rather sparsely protected line up the short wall which is to the left of Shiny Side Up. Starting from the large ledge and using the obvious right-hand pocket, gain a further good handhold. Continue up directly, and with some difficulty, into a shallow niche. Trend slightly right before gaining the final column and the top ledge.
Shiny Side Up 8m HVS 4c. Paul Healdand, Keith Archer. 6 Jun 2010.Climb the centre of the slabby wall 8m left of the entrance tunnel.
One Way Donkey Ride 20m Very Difficult. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 6 Jun 2010.At the right corner of the entrance tunnel, climb the slightly right-trending steps below a wall at the top. Pass the wall on its right.
Siar Wall:From just above the Two Fingers area, traverse east and down to a large black slab. Siar Wall is above this.
Juicy Sall 18m HVS 5b **. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 6 Jun 2010.The left-hand corner by the layer cake featured grey wall. Go up this to gain a ledge below a short overhanging wall. Surmount this to gain another ledge below an open V-groove. Pull through this and step up to finish.
Weapon of Mass Consumption 16m HVS 5a. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 6 Jun 2010.Climb the short wall to the bottom of the obvious ramp. Follow the rightward crack through the overhang on good holds.
The Exit Slabs:From the campsite head west towards the summit. Before reaching this, follow a wide easy angled grassy gully to the south to a grassy ledge. Access a large tidal platform by a double abseil from a large embedded boulder adjacent to the grassy ledge. A second
abseil can be made from a large boulder at the cliff edge. From the right-hand side of the large tidal platform, traverse over barnacle covered ledges to a narrow tidal ledge. The following routes start from this ledge.
Saving the Last Dance 35m Severe 4a. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 9 Jun 2010.From the corner of the ledge, climb the short wall on the left to a slab. Follow this trending left to reach the steeper wall at half-height. Climb the weakness to just below the cliff-top boulder.
One Horse Race 36m HVS 5a. Tom Oaks, Paul Bradbeer. 9 Jun 2010.From the shelf, climb the crack in the right wall. After a short rest under the roof, step right and reach up for juggy holds. Pull through the roof and belay on the ledge. Climb the loose upper wall easily to the top.
LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, Air Mor Mangurstadh, Buaile Chuide, Screaming Geo:Exit Point 40m E7 6c ***. Tim Emmett, Dave MacLeod. 1 Jun 2010.Follow Paranoid Slippers to just beyond its crux. Step up, then make a rising traverse left at the edge of the vertical wall until it is possible to access an undercut groove in the spectacular hanging arete (just above the flake of The Shadow Dancer). Follow this to a good rest below a roof. Make a long reach through the roof and hard moves above onto the hanging upper arete. Once a few moves up the arete the climbing eases off rapidly.
Roadside Crag:Descriptions were sent from a crag on a corner of the road just north of Dail Beag (NB 234 456). They have been climbed many times before.
Port Stoth (NB 524 659):At the back of Port Stoth Bay is a small cliff on the north side.
Picnic Bay Arete 10m Severe. Gwilym Lynn. 5 Aug 2010.The bounding left-hand arete clearly visible from the approach.
Bouldering Mat Umbrella 10m VS 4c. Gwilym Lynn. 5 Aug 2010.The bounding right-hand arete, with awkward moves low down leading to a loose finish.
Sandy Sandwiches 10m Severe. Gwilym Lynn. 5 Aug 2010.The crack to the left of the right-hand arete joining the arete near the top. Some loose rock.
MANGERSTA, Rubh’ an Taroin:Neighbourhood Watch 30m E3 6a ***. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 3 Jul 2011.Start 10m right of 12 Years On at a groove. Go up the groove to a pink/yellow ledge. Continue through the bulge above and follow a superb grey ramp-line up and left.
Rubh’ an Taroin, Black Wall:Black Cat Direct E4 5c. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 3 Jul 2011.Follow the groove direct passed the dubious blocks.
LEWIS HILLS, Creag Mo:The Realm 80m E8 6c ***. Tim Emmett, Dave MacLeod. 31 May 2010.Start below the curving flake feature in the huge horizontal roof.1. 30m 6c Move easily up to the roof and carefully arrange various cams in the roof, taking care with soft flaky rock. The rock improves immediately you begin the flake. Launch out across this on big holds until they run out at halfway. A sustained bouldery
sequence leads out to and around the lip to gain a standing position on a good foothold above the roof. Step right and belay.2. 50m 6b Move up the wall a couple of metres and make a delicate traverse left on poor sloping edges to gain a very welcome runner in a thin crack. Make a hard move to get established in the crack. Continue up this with excellent climbing, moving left below the stepped overlaps to successive wall cracks leading to the top.
Creag Dubh Dibadale:Note: Big Licks E3 5c *** is very sustained, high in the grade (Ian Taylor). A better description for pitch 6:Above are three groove lines. Gain a ledge in the middle groove by coming in from the right-hand groove. Move into the left-hand groove etc
HARRIS, Sron Ulladale:Note: Stone is very easy for the grade, probably E4 (Ian Taylor)
HARRIS, Clisham:Incarnation 100m III,4. Andrew Latham, Antony Latham. 22 Dec 2010.This is a very obvious frozen waterfall. The route takes the left side of this (NB 154 079). Scramble for 10m up a left-trending ramp to the first belay stance. Make your way up interesting ground for 10m, followed by an easy snow-slope to a belay below the corner on the left (40m). Move left to a blocky corner. Climb the corner and then up mixed rock and ice up the obvious weakness (40m). Move up and left to a roof and from a large flake, step out right round the arete. Finish up the pleasant icefall, trending left at the top.
BARRA, Breaker Wall:Old Codger 25m E3 5c **. Jason Walker, Graham Tyldesley. 9 Jun 2011.Climb the flake in the centre of the wall left of Classic Corner, starting from a tidal island in the middle of a rock pool. Climb the groove above exiting right onto a ledge at the top. Make steep moves up and slightly left to a sloping rail. Traverse left along the rail before finishing slightly right (common with Rock Dance?). A more direct and independent finish could be possible before traversing left along the rail but may be a grade harder.
Missing Musketeers 35m E3 6a **. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 9 Jun 2011.Start up Classic Corner for 5m, then traverse left and go up a thin flake in the middle of the wall, to good holds. Go up, then left until able to pull rightwards through the capping bulge.
Barra Wall:Snake Charmer 35m E4 5c ***. Tess Fryer, Ian Taylor 11 Jun 2011.A fine sustained pitch that slithers up the wall right of Cobra. Start on a ledge up and right from Cobra. Go up a shallow left-slanting groove to a flake, then move up and right to a good ledge. Break through the roof above on monster undercuts and jugs to gain a very shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out and an awlward move leads to better holds. Trend left to finish.
MINGULAY, Trundle Geo (NL 550 819):Eagle Gravy 60m E1 *. Peter Graham, Franco Cookson (alt). 25 Jun 2010.An adventurous route taking the obvious line up the main wall at the top of the geo. Loose snappy rock. Start at the lowest point of the main wall on the south side of the geo. Approach by abseil. Topo provided.1. 25m 4c Climb straight up the wall (no gear) to reach a ledge and gear behind a large dubious flake. Traverse right into a short corner, which is climbed to a ledge.
2. 35m 4c Move across right and slightly downwards into the bottom of the obvious ramp/corner line, which is climbed to the top.
Geirum Walls, Platform Wall:Not-so-Butch Cassidy and the Stanley Kid 19m HVS 5a. Craig McMahon, Adam Cassidy. 30 May 2010.1. 10m 4a From the large platform start 1m left from the corner of the platform and climb directly to a spire beneath the roof on the left-hand end of the main overhang. 2. 9m 5a Traverse the overhang and finish up the crux of Seriously Twitching.Topo provided.
ST KILDA, Hirta:Boat Race 90m E6 ****. Dave MacLeod, Tim Emmett. 3 Jun 2010.Climbs the superb gabbro cliff below the Maiden’s Stone. Approach by passing under the stone and following a grassy rake to the top of the route (a big open easy angled slab). Continue walking down and left (facing out) until it is possible to abseil to small platforms just above the sea. A large horizontal break marks the way, running leftwards into the heart of the cliff, below the impressive vertical central wall.1. 20m 5c Traverse the big break leftwards past a hard section (wet on the first ascent) to gain an obvious ledge. Belay at the left end of this.2. 25m 6a Pull steeply onto the immaculate vertical wall and follow a crack-line and continuation moving left on perfect gabbro to big ledges and a belay at the basalt dyke.3. 45m 6a Work up and rightwards following the line of a thin seam in the steep slab above (poor gear). Committing moves lead to a good ledge. Move left on this and climb an easier big groove over bulges to eventually gain the easy finishing slab.
THE SHIANTS, Galta Mor:This is the highest cliff, with an arch shaped roof in the lower half.
The Puffin Diaries 50m E7 6c *. Tim Emmett, Dave MacLeod. 30 May 2010.Just left of the arch-shaped roof feature dominating the cliff is a tapering groove that runs out on the left arete of the arch.1. 20m 6c Abseil or access the base of the groove by boat. Climb the groove to good nuts as it runs out on the left arete of the arch. Swing around the arete wildly using a hanging block to crucial gear in a break. Make bouldery moves to a good crack leading through the left side of the arch. Continue directly in a faint groove on tiny holds to gain a standing position on the headwall (crux). Move up to stand on a block.2. 30m 6b Climb the well protected but sustained and technical finger crack in the slab to easier angled rock below the final roof. Traverse boldy rightwards on easier ground but increasingly suspect rock to the left-hand of two final grooves right of the roof. Climb the groove taking care with the rock and belay well back.
COLONSAY, Duntealtaig, The Corners (NR 385 982):Above a non-tidal boulder beach at Duntealtaig lies an impressive series of corners, aretes and cracks, facing north-east. Approach via the track through Uragaig and go left near the end of the track through a gate signposted to the beach (as for Arch Crag). Walk diagonally rightwards up through the field round the bottom of a mound and continue up to the cliff-side fence. Hop over this and descend a steep grass slope to the bottom of the crag.
Gardener’s Question Time 25m HVS 5a. Ellis Ash, Dave Sykes. 24 May 2011.The right-hand corner line is mostly pleasant but has some loose holds near the top. Fence belay 60m back (pull through a rope or use a spare).
Squall Wall 22m E3 5c **. Ellis Ash, Dave Sykes, Tom Bridgeland. 24 May 2011.
A classic crack climb. Takes the steep crack in the left wall of the corner left of Gardener’s Question Time. Preplace a 60m belay rope from the fence to a sloping ledge at the top and left of the crack. Follow the crack direct, with a welcome change in angle at 10m. Pull left at the top to belay on the sloping ledge. Pull out using the belay rope or abseil off this. Extra medium cams useful.
MULL, Ardtun, Dunan Mor:The following routes are left of Like a Blanket on a Man.
Dropping Runners 8m HVS 5a *. Cynthia Grindley, ColinMoody, Steve Jones. 12 Jun 2010.The steep crack at the left side of the bay.
Tower Crack 8m HVS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones.12 Jun 2010.The crack on the left side of the tower.
Left Twin 8m VS 4c.Colin Moody. 19 Sep 2009.The left-hand twin cracks round left of Like a Blanket.
First 8m E2 5c *. Colin Moody, Steve Jones. 3 Jun 2010.Climb the arete, protected with RPs.
First Again 8m VS 4c *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 12 Jun 2010.Climb the crack to the left of Right Twin.
Right Twin 8m VS 4c. Colin Moody. 19 Sep 2009.The right-hand twin cracks.
ERRAID, Karen’s Slab:(NM 296 200) Alt 50m South-West facingThis crag is located on the south side of Cnoc Mor, the main hill with a large block near the top. There is a topo at www.colinmoody.com/Site/Topos.html. The slab consists of two slabs separated by steeper ground. Routes on the right-hand slab are poorly protected.Approach: There is a path that contours round the hill from the north-east; a direct approach from the beach is rough going.
Tracey E3 5c **. Andy Hyslop, Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 11 Jul 2011.This route is just right of the left-hand slab. Climb up to the bulging crack. Move up left with difficulty to reach and climb a right-facing corner-crack.
Unnamed HVS 5a * Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Andy Hyslop. 11 Jul 2011.Climb the obvious crack up to the bulge. Move steeply up and left to the top.
Unnamed HVS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Andy Hyslop. 11 Jul 2011.Climb the arete to a large ledge. Move up on blocks then pull out left and continue to the top.
Right-Hand Slab:Susan 10m HVS 4c *. R.Birkett. 26 May 2009.Climb directly up the pink streak at the left side of the Right-Hand Slab, probably very difficult to find any protection.
Owen 10m HVS 4c *. R.Birkett. 26 May 2009.
Start just right of Susan. Climb up right to an undercut flake and continue up to the top. Bold in places but better protected than other routes on this slab.
Emma Rose 10m VS 4b *. R.Birkett. 26 May 2009.The fine unprotected open crack up the right side of the slab.
Ria 8m Very Difficult 4b *. R.Birkett. 26 May 2009.The broken buttress on the right has a difficult start; finish right.
The Corridor:(NM 295 200) Alt 40m South-West facingThere is a topo at www.colinmoody.com/Site/Topos.html.About 100m west of Karen’s Slab and slightly lower is a wall in a dip. The wall is broken into two tiers.
Lower Tier:Mistral 12m E1 5b *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 1 May 2011.Start at the left-hand side of the crag below twin cracks that run up to an easy angled corner. Climb up a short steep corner, then up to reach the twin cracks. Finish up the corner above. The leader moved left after gaining the twin cracks, then back right, but the second climbed it more direct, probably 5c.
Unnamed E2 5c ** Andy Hyslop, Cynthia Grindley, Colin Moody. 3 Jul 2011.Right of Mistral is a dark stain down the wall and right of this is a crack. Move up to the crack and climb it.
Unnamed VS 4b. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 3 Jul 2011.Start just left of Onshore Breeze on a flat rock. Climb up steeply to a ledge, step left and continue up the upper wall.
Onshore Breeze 10m Very Difficult. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 1 May 2011.Climb easy pleasant stepped rock a few metres left of The Storm. A left-hand start is easier.
The Storm 10m VS 4b * Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.At the right side is an obvious straight crack. Start right of the crack. Move over a bulge to a good flake, then go up left the gain and climb the crack.
Gust 10m Severe *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 1 May 2011.Right of The Storm is a nice rib. Step up, then left onto the rib and climb it. Go left slightly to finish.
Upper Tier:Routes can be gained from the left, the right, or from a route on the Lower Tier.
Offshore Breeze Severe. Colin Moody. 30 Apr 2011.Climb the slab at the left-hand side and which faces Iona.
White Horses 5a. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.Start at a short corner at the left side of the crag. Climb up, then up right easily to the ledge.
Gale HVS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.Left of Wind Tunnel are twin cracks. Climb the crack left of these.
Unnamed E2 5c **. Andy Hyslop, Cynthia Grindley, Colin Moody. 3 Jul 2011.The thin twin cracks. A good route to climb after the E2 below.
Wind Tunnel HVS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.The left-hand obvious jam crack, with help from the crack on the left.
Tornado VS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 1 May 2011.The right-hand obvious jam crack, using holds to the right.
Unnamed Hard Severe. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Andy Hyslop. 3 Jul 2011.Climb the crack left of the huge flake.
Unnamed E1 5b *. Andy Hyslop, Cynthia Grindley, Colin Moody. 3 Jul 2011.Climb the crack right of the huge flake.
Creag Mor:(NM 295 199) South facingThese are the walls above the flat boggy ground. There are a couple of belay stakes at the top.
Smelly Crack 20m VS 5a *. Colin Moody, Steve Jones. 10 Oct 2010.Right of the blank upper section of the main face is a straight crack. Climb the crack just right of it.
Starter 12m VS 4c*. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.Start from the left end of the shelf halfway up the right-hand side of the crag and gained by descending from the top. Move up left and climb the obvious crack.
Bijou 10m HVS 5a **. Cynthia Grindley, Colin Moody, Steve Jones. 30 Apr 2011.To the right of Starter. Climb the crack, move left and follow the crack to the top.
Twin Cracks 10m VS 4c *. Andy Hyslop, Cynthia Grindley, Colin Moody. 3 Jul 2011.The right-hand line. Climb twin cracks.
Creag Mor Wall:Slanting Cracks 8m HVS 5a *. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 26 Sep 2010.Walking right from the main crag is a small cracked face. Climb the left-slanting cracks at the right end of the face.
EILEAN DUBH:This island lies west of Erraid (at the end of the Ross of Mull), across a narrow channel that contains the well known anchorage of Tinker’s Hole. It is comprised entirely of granite. On the west side of the island is a prominent buttress (NM 285 197) that stands proud of the hillside with a south face and a west face. An impressive pile of enormous blocks lies below the south face that reaches down into the sea. Access is by boat, kayak or canoe and landings are rocky but could be made in a number of places. The approach waters are generally sheltered although the Erraid north channel can be exposed to wind and chop on a very windy day. By kayak or canoe, the best starting point is one of the beaches at Fidden, reached by minor road south from Fionnphort.On the west face of the crag is a very prominent fault-line that runs the full height of the cliff.
Eileen Doo 25m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, David Shortt. 25 August 2010.Climb a deep thrutchy crack and finish directly up the corner above.
Note: A spectacular line on the steeper south face, Sword of Damocles, is a very demanding corner line through two difficult overhangs, finishing up a bizarre 5m jammed sword of granite that is wedged lightly into the top of the fault. Unsure of the stability of this sword, the route was climbed only on top-rope, guessing grade to be E2
EILEAN NAM MUC:This island, comprised of wonderful granite, lies just 400m across a channel to the west of the SW corner of Erraid. It is the last significant island in the group of islands and skerries on the west side of Erraid and enjoys a magnificent prospect out to Iona and Tiree on the west side, as far as Rum and Skye to the north, across Mull to the east and south to Colonsay, Jura and Islay. It is a truly delightful setting with a remote feel. The island is virtually ringed by cliffs. To visit and climb here feels like a real adventure. Mobile coverage exists on the island. There is no fresh water, but it would be possible to camp on top of the island.The entire east side of the island falls into the sea, with scattered groups of boulders, mostly tidal. We called this the Erraid Wall. Further development of routes here may require stake belays as the cliff-top is steep and grassy. We accessed the one route climbed on this east side by abseil. The sharp northern point of the island cradles a small, partly sheltered bay on the west side, which provides the only sheltered landing possibility. The bay is protected from the north by the island itself and to the west by skerries that lie close offshore.Facing west above this bay is a steep cliff and further down the west coast are two similar very steep cliffs. All three stand back from the sea. We referred to these three cliffs as the Sunset Walls, north, centre and south” respectively. We did not climb on these walls.Hidden from the view of climbers on Erraid, lies a beautiful southern wall. We called this the Dream Wall. (NM 283 190) This wall has an eastern sector, which lies secure from the reaches of the sea above a huge sunny glacis, and separated from it by an obvious prow is a western sector, largely protected from the sea by a ridge of granite. The routes at the farthest west end of this sector can be affected by the tide that sloshes in along the fault between the ridge and the cliff proper. Although this cliff lies on the southern extremity and faces the full exposure to the ocean to the SW, the routes are mostly very protected from the sea itself. The whole place is a sun trap. Finally, cutting down into the glacis at its eastern end, is a fine cleft, (known as Islay Cleft) that reaches the sea. There are walls and climbs on both sides of the cleft and descending the cleft at low tide allows access to two routes that climb back up to the top, one to the east and one to the west. At high tide these last climbs are not accessible. With the exception of Cats Causeway on the Erraid Wall, all the routes climbed were on the Dream Wall and in the Islay Cleft. These latter venues provide an extraordinary concentration of lower grade routes on perfect granite. Racks should include plenty of large friends, chocks and hexes. All routes can be climbed with a single half rope doubled, but a separate abseil rope is useful to leave in place for ascending multiple routes.Access:This island is accessible only by boat, kayak or canoe. It is best to land in the sheltered cove at the NW corner of the island. The approach waters are generally sheltered although the Erraid north channel can be exposed to wind and chop on a very windy day. The final approach from Tinker’s Hole or Eilean Dubh can be more exposed in windy conditions or rough seas, either to southerly or northerly winds. The final approach to the landing bay can be affected by ocean swell or westerlies. By kayak or canoe the best starting point is one of the beaches at Fidden, reached by minor road south from Fionnphort. A canoe would be a suitable craft to visit the island only in very settled weather with slight sea conditions. In most conditions kayaks would be more practical.Once safely ashore at the NW bay of the island, climb onto the spine of the island and head south to the summit. Descend steep, and heavily vegetated, ground towards the SE corner of the island where a rocky ridge runs south. Be aware that at this point the Erraid
Wall is overhanging beneath you. Easy scrambling down to the edge and then heading right past the rocky ridge leads to the glacis beneath the eastern sector of the Dream Wall. Islay Cleft cuts down into the top of this glacis, just west of the aforementioned rocky ridge. For climbs on the western sector of the Dream Wall, simply walk down the glacis, step down and climb up onto the long rock ridge that parallels the cliff and allows a view of all the climbs.
The routes are described from right to left, starting at the access point on the SE corner of the island.
Erraid Wall:Right below the access to the Dream Wall at the SE corner of the island.
Cats Causeway 25m Very Difficult. James Kinnaird, Chris Dickinson. 26 Sep 2010.Abseil down the overhanging wall onto blocks at sea-level.Climb across the slab to gain the base of a long right-slanting corner. Follow this all the way to a short steep finish that turns the overhanging wall.
The following routes are in or start from the bottom of the Islay Cleft.
I Come from a Land Down Under 20m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, James Kinnaird. 26 Sep 2010.Descend the cleft to sea-level and move left (east) into a recess, below an impressive jutting prow. This is the start. Climb steeply out right onto a hanging rib and take the fine vertical crack on the left to easier rock.
On the east wall of the Islay Cleft.
Crescent Moon 8m Very Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Climb the unmistakable crescent shaped twin crack on immaculate granite.
Knob Face 8m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Climb the triangular face direct. An extraordinary door handle granite knob provides the only hold and foothold until the top edges of the face can be reached.
On the west wall of the Islay Cleft.
Islay Wall 15m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey. 27 Aug 2010.From near the bottom of the cleft climb the steep wall on amazing holds.
Starting from the bottom of the Islay Cleft at sea-level, the next climb is on the seaward wall to the west.
Starboard Tack, Port Tack 20m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey. 27 Aug 2010.Climb the committing hand-traverse leftwards (crux) and then step up through the overlap onto the slab above, trending right to finish directly above the start.
On the eastern sector of the Dream Wall, from right to left. As the cliff gets taller there is a short blank wall, useful as an abseil descent. Just left of this, two distinctive cracks cross each other.
Cross of St. Andrew Right 12m Hard Severe 4b. Chris Dickinson, David Shortt. 26 Aug 2010.
Follow the fine crack leftwards, past the crossover and out to the left arete. Finish up the upper part of the arete (All or Nubbin).
Cross of St. Andrew Left 12m Hard Severe 4b. David Shortt, Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Take the left-hand crack and follow it rightwards to the top of the crag, crossing the previous route.
All or Nubbin 12m Severe 4a. Chris Dickinson, David Shortt. 26 Aug 2010.Follow the beautiful arete with the help of granite nubbins. Stay out of the groove to the left.
Gwoovy Gwanite 12m Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.The deep groove just left of the arete.
Flake Tan 13m Severe 4b. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Brown streaks on the right side of the superb flaky wall. Climb direct to the top.
Flakey Friends 14m Severe 4a. David Shortt, Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Start 3m left of Flake Tan and follow the striking flakes slightly right and finish left by a short crack. A wee classic.
Slab And Tickle 16m HVS 5a. Chris Dickinson, David Shortt. 26 Aug 2010.Start at foot of a ramp, 1m left of Flakey Friends. Climb straight up the delicate slabby wall to gain (crux) a leftward facing flake. Climb onto the flake and continue up a flake to a short steep wall. A beautiful route.
Jammy Piece 15m Severe 4a. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Follow the right-hand jam-crack.
Stuck in a Rut 14m Severe 4a. David Shortt. 26 Aug 2010.Follow the left-hand jam-crack.
Jammy Dodger 18m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, David Shortt. 26 Aug 2010.The longer curving crack left of the previous two, with the crux near the finish.
Blockbuster 15m Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.A pleasant ramble up the blocky wall, finishing at the right end of the overhang.
David’s Delight 10m Severe 4c. David Shortt, Chris Dickinson. 26 Aug 2010.Climb the underside of the overhang from inside the cave. The pedestal behind at half-height eases the grade to Severe because you can rest and place protection for the final pull over the overhang on big holds. Strenuous for the grade.
The following routes are on the western sector of the Dream Wall and climb the obvious prow that divides the eastern and western sectors. Routes described from right to left facing the crag.
Fast Lane 15m Very Difficult. Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Climb to the right side of the unusual jutting ledge on the prow and the right-hand crack above.
Slow Lane 15m Hard Severe 4b. Chris Ravey, Anthony Walker, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.
Climb to the left side of the jutting ledge on the prow and the left-hand crack above with more difficulty.
Hot Otter 16m Severe 4a. Chris Dickinson, Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey. 27 Aug 2010.The left-facing corner gives a steep and pleasant bridging problem.
Take a Flakey 16m VS 4c. Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.This route follows the cracks to the left and occasionally uses holds in the corner of Hot Otter before heading up left by twin cracks, pinching the vertical flake (crux).
Sunshine Stroll 16m Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Nice climbing up cracks and blocks to achieve the top of a huge block and a finishing blocky arete.
Welly Good Route 18m Moderate. Chris Ravey, Anthony Walker, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Climbed in wellington boots! Make for the obvious corner-crack, step right onto the pedestal and finish on the blocky arete of the previous route.
Tootie Flootie 18m Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Climb the long and featured slab to the right of two prominent parallel cracks directly to the top of the crag on wonderful rock.
Xenophobe 22m Severe 4a. Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Climb up to the start of the right-hand crack-line and follow it to the top.
Xenolith 22m Hard Severe 4b. Chris Ravey, Anthony Walker, Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Climb up to and over the overhang on good holds. Then take the fine left-hand crack, parallel to Xenophobe.
Andy Pandy 20m Difficult. Chris Dickinson. 27 Aug 2010.Start opposite the gap in the seaward ridge. Climb easy cracks and blocks, passing between two small overhangs, to large ledges.
Lobster 22m Severe. Colin Moody, Steve Jones. 9 Oct 2010.Start 4m west of the gap below a wide crack high up. Climb corner-cracks, then the wide crack.
Brown Crab 22m Severe. Colin Moody, Steve Jones. 9 Oct 2010.Start 6m west of the gap. Climb the corner-crack and go over a slight bulge to a large ledge below a prominent corner-crack. Climb the corner.
It is possible to use these ledges as a convenient abseil point to save a long descent to the east.
Roofus 18m VS 5a. Chris Dickinson, James Kinnaird. 26 Sep 2010.Climb up to the crack cleaving the right-hand end of the prominent red roof. Use a crack on the right to move up and then step left above the overhang. Follow the corner-crack above.
Robster Lobster 15m HVS 5a. James Kinnaird, Chris Dickinson. 26 Sep 2010.
From the midway ledge, pull over the left end of the prominent red roof. Climb the steep wall above on good holds, trending right, to achieve a hanging slab. Make a delicate move up the steeper slab behind it to finish.
Soa Arete 15m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, Anthony Walker, Chris Ravey. 27 Aug 2010.From the midway ledge, move up and left onto the arete and then step right onto its continuation, finishing in a fine position.
Soa Corner 15m Hard Severe 4b. Chris Dickinson, James Kinnaird. 26 Sep 2010.The left wall of Soa Arete has two fierce cracks. Climb the fine stepped corner to their left, sometimes wet. The middle vertical step is the crux.
The Pooch 15m Severe 4a. James Kinnaird, Chris Dickinson. 26 Sep 2010.The very fine stepped diedre 2m left of Soa Corner. Nubbins make the final crack easier than it looks.
The following two climbs are affected by the tide.
Clifton Crack 16m Severe 4a. James Kinnaird, Chris Dickinson. 26 Sep 2010.Start immediately right of a steep arete at sea-level. Follow a fine corner to the midway ledge and then the left-hand continuation crack.
Banana Arete 16m VS 4c. Chris Dickinson, James Kinnaird. 26 Sep 2010.Just left of the previous route is a steep arete at sea-level. Start 1 metre left of the arete and climb up to the midway ledge. Pull up onto the banana shaped hanging slab on the left-hand side of the arete. Exit awkwardly onto the easier slab above. Magnificent rock.
IONA:(NM 257 220) Alt 10m South-East facingThese crags are just east of Raven’s Crag. Routes by Colin Moody & Cynthia Grindley in 2010.
Jericho 18m Severe *.Climb the rib at the left end to juniper ledges. Finish up twin cracks in the corner above.
Trinity 18m Severe *.Climb the wall to the right and finish up the shallow corner.
St Palladius 18m Severe *.Follow the crack left of the broad pillar up left.
St. Margaret’s 18m HVS 4c **.Climb the right side of the broad rib to a break, then go boldly to the top.
St. John’s 18m VS 4b *.Start as for St. Mary’s and climb the crack to the left.
St. Mary’s 18m Severe *.The obvious crack-line gives a nice climb.
St. Vitus 18m VS 4b *.Right of St. Mary’s is a nice pink pillar. Start right of the pillar.Climb up the dark rock and over a steepening. Step left onto the fine pillar and climb it.
Top Slab 14m VS 4b.To the right of St Vitus the crag gets vegetated then finishes with a clean ( but green) slab. This route climbs central crack on the green slab. Start up a crack on the left side then step right and continue to the top.
Top Rib 10m Severe.Climb the crack just left of the right side of the green slab.
SKYE
The following routes were too late to make the new Skye guidebooks.
NEIST, The Green Lady:Gruagach 25m HVS 5a **. Danny Laing, Matt Munro. 1 May 2011.Climbs the south wall of the Green Lady by a wandering line that may take in some ground already covered by other routes. Start at the south arete, climb to a flake with a sprig of heather on top, step up on this and climb a thin crack thinly up and right to two blocks at a point where the subsidiary ridge abuts the Green Lady. Surmount blocks and climb directly to the top.
Shimmering Area:This area lies north of Tower Gully.
Wobble 35m HVS 5b. N.Bassnett R.Brown M.Hudson. 9 Aug 2010.One hundred metres south of Two Faced is a long clean narrow buttress, best identified as starting lower than its often wetter neighbours. Start up a left-facing corner on the left side of the buttress before moving onto the front face. Climb up the left-hand side, easily avoiding a small wobbly hold, to a slight cracked recess on the left, with the crux immediately above. Alternatively here, a series of moves on the right reduces the overall route to VS 4b. Belays can be found at the top of the buttress. A grassy slope gains the top.
Rogue Reporter 35m VS 4c. Willie Jeffrey, Noel Williams. 30 Jul 2011.Weaves a way up the buttress to the right of Wobble. Start in the centre of the buttress and slant up rightwards to a good flake. Climb back leftwards until it is possible to traverse right and then gain a ledge by a semi-mantelshelf move. Continue to a shallow right-facing corner. Make some moves up the arete of the corner before stepping right onto the face. Slant rightwards and gain an earthy ledge. Step left and climb up before moving right to an awkward exit onto a ledge. Continue up a short wall to the top.There are two stakes in the grass slope above the buttress.
Financial Sector:The Big Money 30m E3 6a **. Gary Latter. 30 May 2010.Good well protected climbing up the hanging finger-crack just right of the sharp arete left of A Fistful of Dollarite. Climb the easier lower wall past ledges to gain thin crack. Go up this with difficult moves to gain good finger-crack leading to a ledge. Finish up a tricky thin curving crack, struggling to avoid stepping into the gully. Parts of this route are already climbed by All the Small Things.
Gritstone Reminiscence Bay:The wall south of Nothing Special has diagonal striations running downwards from the left. Two vertical cracks cleave the face.
Hook Man 18m VS 4b. N.Bassnett. Clare Aspinall, R.Brown. 22 Apr 2011
Gain the base of the right-hand crack. The crack features worthwhile climbing and a friendly pocket.
Mimic Bay:Unnamed 15m HVS 5b ***. Mick Tighe & party. Oct 2010.South of Mimic Corner is this excellent crack in the upper wall above the crevasse.
Unnamed 15m E4. Mick Tighe & party. Oct 2010.Another crack 5m south again, possibly E4 but climbed with some aid.
Esoteric Sector:The pathway south of the Mimic section goes through a cairned boulder field. Twenty five metres south of the emergence of the path, the cliffs establish a more continuous nature. The next three routes have belays just below the top.
Closing the Book 33m E1 5b*. N.Bassnett, R.Brown. 15 Apr 2011.Seventy five metres north of Neist Police is a buttress with a mid-height pinnacle opposite a lonesome boulder featuring a jagged cliff-facing crack, some 50m downslope. Immediately right, the cleaner buttress with a left-facing irregular corner to mid-height offers this varied outing. Climb a short wall and the open book corner with its closing chapter to mid-height. Committing moves to the arete permit an awkward access rightwards to the mirrored J crack.
Sea Boots 33m VS 4c. R.Brown N.Bassnett. 17 Apr 2011.Two buttresses to the right and level with the reversed J section of CtB is a right-facing layaway corner which starts with a tilt. Start up rock left of a grassy ramp. Above a perched block move up and right to a pocket in the sidewall. Step back left and up to skirt the juniper ledge to the base of the arete from which height can be gained, before a traverse left to the corner and the meat of the route.
Splot 33m VS 4c N.Bassnett, R.Brown. 19 Apr 2011.Right of the grassy ramp of SS is a massive semi-attached block creating an overhang at mid-height with a similar blocky overhang further right. Right again is floor to ceiling continuous rock with a rhomboidal roof at two-thirds height and an mosaic of cracks left of the overhang. Start in a short corner with a heather ledge top and then climb fairly directly to the cracks moving left to avoid the odd hollow sounding one.
Destitution Point:Dunhallin 16m Severe. Ian Sykes, R. Brown. 1 Jul 2011.Immediately right of L’Americano and in line with the slab of Man of Straw is a black cracked and stepped pleasant slab, which is climbed first on the left before moving to its right arete. Care should be taken at the central exit.
Portrait Area:Twenteen 25m Hard Severe 4b*. Mark Hudson, N.Bassnett. 24 Apr 2011.Start 2m right of Portrait Pillar at a straight crack. Climb this, and good black flakes above (sometimes damp – stepping leftwards across the wall raises the grade to VS 4c) to the platform above the Portrait Pillar wall. Finish up a rib on the right.
Golden Leaf 25m Severe *. N.Bassnett, R.Brown. 5 Jun 2011.Adjacent to two green baize topped blocks, and 5m right of Portrait Pillar, is narrow irregular square rib which supports a crack. Above the crack, move right to follow the groove direct. Stepping left at the very top reduces the overall grade to Very Difficult *.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS NORTH
BEINN DEARG, Glensquaib Cliffs:Note: Finlay's Buttress (2007) and Sidewinder (1999) share a first pitch but are largely separate afterwards, Sidewinder being nearer Fenian Gully.
Pearl Buttress 260m IV,5. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 23 Feb 2011.A line based on an icefall on the right side of the lower tier of the buttress with Wall of Retribution. The lower section was too thin so was started at the right corner of the lower tier. Climb a groove until possible to traverse left across the top of the icefall and up to reach a wall left of thicker ice in a chimney (55m). Climb the chimney (20m) and continue easily up to below a turfy line just right of the steepest area of the upper tier (50m). Climb the turfy line (55m). Pass a rock outcrop on the left and climb steep ground (the right edge of the steepest section) to easier ground (30m). Going further right here would have reduced the grade to III,4. Finish easily (50m).
West Buttress:Peace Process 350m IV,3. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 23 Feb 2011.An ice line on the face between Gastronomes’ Gully and Silken Ladder. There are two large areas of ice and linked by lower angled ice or snow. Climb to the first ice patch, about 100m up and right of the start of Silken Ladder, then head leftwards to the second. This was climbed initially on the right, then diagonally left across it. Finish trending left.
BEINN DEARG, Waterslide Slabs:(NH 253 797) Alt 630mA long slide of narrow slabs lies west of the waterslide of the Allt Beinn Dearg, about 700m north-west of the Silver Slabs (SMCJ 2009). Park at the west end of Loch Droma and follow the track north from Lochdrum house over the col between Meallan Mhurchaidh and Meall Feith Dhiongaig and down to Gleann Mucarnaich, crossing the Allt Mhucarnaich (easy save in spate), 1.5 to 2hrs.The slabs are composed of calcareous schist which gives limestone-like features of pockets on very clean sound rock but devoid of protection save at the overlaps which take Friends but not nuts which need not be carried apart from one Rock 9. The rock dries in a day after rain.
Textured Slab 160m Very Difficult **. John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 23 Jul 2011.A delightful outing best climbed with sacks to combine an ascent of Beinn Dearg. Descents are to the east or right towards the waterslide. The climb starts halfway up the slabs where the rock becomes continuous. Start by a long thin block on the east bank of the slabs. The climb takes a central line up the slabs and finishes by a pointed block seen from below.1. 50m Walk and pad easily to an overlap by a heather clump. Step over this and go up to a short horizontal crack.2. 25m Continue in the same line to a terrace.3. 30m Go up easy but more interesting slabs to the large main overlap, belaying near the centre below a left-slanting ramp.4. 30m Move up the left-slanting ramp and step right onto the upper slab. Continue over a short overlap, crux, to below the top overlap by a shallow corner near a curious orange stone; a good pitch.5. 25m Climb the shallow corner and final slab to broken ground but continue to the pointed block.
Silver Slabs:Boom Time Direct Finish 25m Hard Severe 4b *. John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 2 Aug 2011.
From the juniper ledge and big block above the start of the third pitch, continue straight up the front face of the flake buttress with an overhang near the top. Very quick drying and an alternative finish easily traversed into from the grassy ledge from either Meridian or Lost in Translation if those are wet.
Meridian 125m HVS 5a **. John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 2 Aug 2011.A direct line up the middle of the slabs, bold in places but with good climbing. Small to medium Friends essential.1. 25m 5a Start midway between the jutting block of Boom Time on the left and a wet corner to the right at the bottom overlap. Climb up to a thin left-slanting crack and surmount the well protected overlap to an initially steep slab. Climb this direct to an overlap just right of a clean cut corner.2. 55m 4c Climb the overlap to a steep slab. Go up this in the centre via hidden holds and continue with minimal protection up the clean slabs and small overlaps to the terrace that cuts across the slabs below the final overlapping headwall slabs. Belay on the right at a big cracked block.3. and 4. 4b or 4c. Finish either on the left as for Lost in Translation and Boom Time or to the right as for Slideshow.
LOCH BROOM, Creag Mhor:Note: John Mackenzie & Eve Austin climbed an 80m Grade III icefall on the lower tier of crags on about 150m above the main road (NH 180 873) on 3 Jan 2010. This lower tier was a mass of ice, mostly too thin but some was good and wove a line in two pitches up the best of it. Above is the bigger Upper Tier with two good potential lines, but too thin on the day.
Beinn Eilideach, The Eilideach Boulder:(NH 16943 92322) Alt approx. 520mThis is the craglet which has a longer south face and a shorter west face. Though limited to four mini routes, they have a delightfully insecure feel.Approach via a track from Leckmelm (‘viewpoint 1 mile’). Follow the track to the viewpoint and strike up the hillside. There are two climbing areas; a sunny south facing craglet offering excellent bouldering on clean rippled schist and an equally clean north facing crag overlooking a lochan down from the summit. A delightful hill and viewpoint with the option of bouldering or crag or both. Routes by John Mackenzie; picture included.
1. West Face – Diff; climb anywhere left of the SW arete.2. South-West Arete; 4c. A pleasant climb up the arete to a rather more awkward finish.3. Ripples and Jugs; 5b * - start up the ramp then the right-facing corner to a thinner finish.4. Momentum and Inertia; 6a * – the overhanging wall just right of the last route finishing with a wicked mantel. A splendid problem!
AN SOCACH, Lochan Pollaig Crag:Radius Gully, Index Finish – Broken Finger Variation 35m IV,4. Steven Andrews, Dave Allen. 7 Jan 2011.Follow Radius Gully, Index Finish until the upper icy, rightward-slanting ramp is reached. Continue to the furthest prominent icefall. Climb this directly until a steep turfy break is reached. Traverse rightward to continuation ice. Follow it to the top.
SEANA BHRAIGH, Luchd Coire:Note: Penny Clay & Colin Wells made a direct start to Query Cleft up a big ice pitch (avoided on the left by the normal route) at Grade IV,4.
ARDMAIR, Big Roof Buttress:Zealous Zygote 10m VS 4c. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 18 May 2010.Start just left of A Bit on the Side and gain a big flake, then step right and go up a left-slanting ramp to a ledge. Take a wide slanting crack on the right and a slab to finish.
Jammy Dodger 10m VS 4c. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 18 May 2010.The jam crack to the left and the groove above.
Last Laugh 10m VS 4c. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 18 May 2010.The next crack to the left, past a small holly to an off-width crack in a corner.
CUL MOR, Coire Gorm:By Appointment 215m VII,7. Iain Small, Ross Hewitt. 3 Feb 2010.Climbs the left side of the steep buttress on the far right of the corrie and finishes up the open face above .Start at a big right-facing corner directly under the left end of the band of roofs.1. 45m Climb the big turfy corner, then transfer left into a smaller hanging corner that leads to a ledge. From its left end take a steep fault, pulling onto slabs and a belay.2. 60m Step down and right into a big groove and follow it to an easier snowslope. At a cul-de-sac, head directly up take a right-facing corner in a steep wall. Exit from the top onto an easier snowslope.3. 50m Go directly up the snowslope and a short ice smear to belay by a chimney on the left.4. 60m Follow the short chimney and turfy ground above to an obvious fault in a steeper rock band. Climb this and easier open ground above.A further 80m of easy ground leads to the top.
STAC POLLAIDH, West Buttress:Enigma Variations 80m V,8. James Edwards, Roger Webb. 28 Nov 2010.On this ascent the final crack of Enigma Grooves was dry and not justifiable as a winter route. The grade assumes possession of large gear which allows overhead protection at the crux (pitch 2).1. and 2. As for Enigma Grooves.3. As for Enigma Grooves until below the final crack, then move left to join Party on the Patio at the through route.
Jack the Ripper - Killer Finish 25m E2 5b. Graham Tyldesley, Adrian Crofton. 12 Jun 2011.Halfway up the final pitch of Jack the Ripper, step around the arete to the right to gain the base of a crack. Climb the crack to the top. Gets a bit close to Felo de Se but is an exposed, sustained and worthwhile finish.
North-West Corner Left-Hand IV,7. James Edwards, Roger Webb. 22 Dec 2010.Climb the first two pitches of North-West Corner. From the second belay the original route is an obvious turfy line slanting slightly right. On the left there are three corners in a row starting from a ledge about 15m above. Climb the centre one which gives a sharp lesson in bridging.
REIFF, Pinnacle Cliff:Note: Pool Wall (SMCJ 2009) is left of (rather than right of) Chimney Corner.
Rockers Cliff:An Easy Day for Damocles 15m E4 5c **. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 30 Aug 2010.On the west-facing wall, under the left end of the Damoclean block, is a line of stepped corners. After an awkward undercut start, climb a thin crack and gain the upper corners
with a difficult mantelshelf move leftwards onto a ledge. Continue to the top of the corners and finish ungracefully round the left end of the block.
Stinking Geo:Blindside 10m E4 6a/b **. Tess Fryer, Ian Taylor. 30 Aug 2010.Right of Pooh, Pong, McPlop is a steep wall with a permanent water streak. Climb the left edge of this wall, starting by swinging in from the left along a good break. From a good ledge move left and continue up the edge via a hard move to the top.
Leaning Block:Note: Ian Taylor thought Crossfire (SMCJ 2009) to be E3 6a * rather than E2 5c **.
Amphitheatre Bay:Relatively Free 25m E4 6a **. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 23 Jul 2011.Start a little to the right of Lost at Sea and climb a snaking flake and crack to reach a big break. Go right along the break and pull into a corner, which is followed to the big roof. Move left and go steeply through the roof at a weakness, then finish up a tricky thin crack. Well protected.
Jigsaw Wall:There is a vertical but undercut wall to the right of the Jigsaw Wall.
Dirty Little Gritstone Pleasures 10m E5 6a **. Dave Brown, Andy Reeve. 29 Jun 2011.From the right end of the starting slab of Jigsaw Wall, gain and climb a fragile flake until the break. Small cams. Move right to a blind vertical crack and climb this to further horizontals and the top. Microcams essential.
The Ultimate Sandstone Experience 10m E4 6a **. Andy Reeve, Dave Brown. 29 Jun 2011.Start on a flat boulder below the right-hand rib of the wall (6m left of Dirty Little Gritstone Pleasures). Hang slopers and campus to gain a standing position above the lip. Teeter upwards to a challenging finish on sloping holds. Microcams essential.
Rubha Ploytach:Clay Pigeon 12m E3 6a *. Tess Fryer, Sheila van Lieshout, Ian Taylor. 25 Jun 2011.Follow Claymore to the first break, traverse right along the break, then go steeply up to finish at the top right corner of the wall.
Plaid on the Rox 15m E3 5c. Ian Taylor, Sheila van Lieshout, Tess Fryer. 25 Jun 2011.The arete right of Maid in a Box, gained by starting up that route, then hand traversing along the first break.
ACHMELVICH, Clean Cut Crag:Faithless 15m E3 6a **. Tess Fryer, Ian Taylor. 30 Apr 2011.The groove line right of Flightless. Needs low tide.
Note: Calypso was thought E4. Flightless - the grade and quality confirmed.
OLD MAN OF STOER:Tall Stoeries 60m E4 ****. Dave Brown, Andy Reeve. 27 Jun 2011.The seaward face has a large overhang breached by a crack, and a flake-line above. Start on a slab below this.
1. 30m 5c Gain the left-facing corner in the centre of the seaward face, from the left. Climb this to exit rightwards onto a green coloured slab. Move up and belay on the left.2. 30m 6a Traverse a hanging slab rightwards to make bold moves to the overhanging crack. Crank up this to a well positioned flake and easy slabs (possible fulmar) which lead to the top.
QUINAG, Western Cliffs:Rickets 200m V,6 **. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 22 Dec 2010.A deep gully curving right behind Ricketty Ridge. Start up a steep ice pitch (or mixed) to an easing (25m). Continue up a shallow groove, including another short steep section of ice, leading towards the gully and belay at its base (50m). Climb the gully past a steep section of back and foot (50m). Continue up the gully to a ridge on the right (50m). Climb more easily to a snow gully on the right (25m). Another 50m leads to the top (not included in length).
Ramshackle Gully 200m IV,4. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 23 Dec 2010.A gully right of Ricketty Ridge. Start as for Ricketty Ridge up the broad scoop, actually the logical start to the gully (80m). The initial section of the gully looks difficult, so climb turfy ground on the left before moving right into the gully (40m). Climb the gully up and right, then move left into its shallow upper section (40m). Continue up this leading onto snow (40m) and joining Rickets to finish.
TARBET SEA-CLIFFS, Balmy Slabs, Western Sector:Gravity Grave 20m E1 5a *. Michael Barnard. 1 Jul 2011.The imposing right arete of Black Tidings has little protection until the last few moves.
Note: Barmy Slab (SMCJ 2009) seems to share sections with Violator. The following description has been suggested.Barmy Slab 15m VS 5a **. James Duthie, Michael Barnard. 25 Jul 2009.Belay on ledges 4m right of the huge cleft. Start up a crack in the initial steep wall (as for Violator); where this gets difficult a move right gains the slab above. Step back left on the edge of the slab to finish up the crack immediately left of the large open corner of Cornucopia.
FAR NORTH-WEST CRAGS, Ridgeway View Crag:Another Perspective 20m HVS 4c *. Ross & Clare Jones. 10 Apr 2011.Climb the slab right of Oars Aft to cracks and a right-facing corner under the headwall. Pull up right and up the overhanging right-slanting niche to the top.
Creag an Fhithich, Back Stage:The following routes are located on the on the small isolated slab to the right of the main crag containing the immaculate hanging finger crack referred to on page 258 of the existing guidebook. The crack is named Trident (Severe 4a ***).
Rain Dance 9m Very Difficult *. Steve Kennedy. 19 Sep 2010.The left-slanting crack-line left of Trident.
Solitary Existence 9m E1 5b/c **. Steve Kennedy. 19 Sep 2010.Climb the thin slab between Rain Dance and the crack of Trident without straying into either crack-line. Bold.
Screamer 9m Very Difficult *. Steve Kennedy. 19 Sep 2010.The groove/crack right of Trident.
Creag Garbh Mhor, Red Slab:
Precambrian Rose 30m VS 4c *. John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 5 Jun 2011.Between Beauties Edge and The Crack is a steep wall. Climb this direct starting just right of Beauties Edge's alcove, climbing up a red wall en route and exiting onto the red slab close to where Beauties Edge joins it. Good clean steep rock easier than it looks.
Sandwood Bay, Crag 2:Note: Andrew Moles found that some of the routes had become fairly inaccessible since the previous year, because shifting sands had left deep pools at their base.
BEINN CEANABEINNE:See the Arctic Bear – Variation 35m 4c. Ben Sparham, Steve Perry, Katie Long. 25 Jul 2011.This opens up the fantastic 4c top pitch to anyone who doesn’t fancy the 5b pitch beneath it. Overall grade HVS 4c. Start 8m left of the curving arch, where red gneiss meets grey. Follow pockets up and then left to a prominent ledge. Move out rightwards along the ledge to the base of the left-slanting crack of pitch 2. Topo provided.
SKERRAY SEA-CLIFFS, Clashaidy Buttress:(NC 667 636) Partially Tidal North-East facingFrom the parking place at Achtoty, instead of walking north-east as for the other cliffs, walk downhill directly to a small rocky inlet. The climbs are on a small buttress to the left. On the right is a prominent spur that looks like a crocodile’s head (Crocodile Rock), which gives an entertaining deep-water traverse from the tip of the nose inwards near high tide.
Swashbuckling Superheroes 9m VS 4c. EUMC party. May 2007.The crack-line on the left side of the buttress, passing an obvious square slot.
Pervy Seal 9m Hard Severe 4b. EUMC party. May 2007.The tapering groove feature near the right-hand side of the buttress, using good holds on the right.
CAITHNESS SEA-CLIFFS, AUCKENGILL:Slippery Bug 6m Hard Severe 4b. Leonard Mckinney, Karen Clarke. 2009.Walk towards the sea from the back of the quarry, then turn right around the base of the first stack and continue up onto a small flat slab about 1m higher. Here is the route, a 6m right-facing corner.
SARCLET, Silver Surfer Buttress:There is lichen on the upper part of the routes on the wall around and right of Silver Surfer (SMCJ 2005), but it makes little or no difference to the quality of the routes. Mick Tighe thought Silver Surfer was HVS but excellent.
Bhouy Zone 35m E2 5b *. Mick Tighe, John McClenaghan. 24 Apr 2010.A few metres right/north of Silver Surfer on the main wall is an 8m crack come groove line. Climb this and the continuation wall above with a deviation right at half-height to avoid a loose block. Excellent, exposed climbing overlooking Silver Surfer.
Cubby Roo 35m HVS 5a ***. Mick Tighe, John McClenaghan. 24 Apr 2010.A few metres right again a shallow depression runs up to the headwall which is defined by a horizontal crack at two-thirds height. Climb the depression on immaculate rock and continue up the hidden crack in the headwall.
Pension Day 35m VS 4c **. Mick Tighe, Doug Lee. 6 May 2010.
Right again there are some small overhangs at around 6m. Climb the excellent little wall to pass the overhangs on the right. Step back left into a shallow depression and follow this and the wall above on pockets, fractures and cracks.
Big Buttress NE Face:Edge Over the Sea 35m E1 5b **. Dan Moore, Ian Jones. 8 Jun 2011.Climb the initial crack of Walking on Water to the easing below the roof, then break out left from the good ledge across the wall towards the left arete to the base of a shallow corner. Climb this and the continuation groove and cracks above just right of the arete to the top.
Heithe Buttress:Kenneth 35m HVS 5a *. Dan Moore, Ian Jones. 10 Jun 2011.From a sea-level ledge just below and right of Lithium Fry-Up, traverse across the slabby wall and climb easily up its right side via the obvious cracked fault on good jugs to a good ledge and optional belay below a leaning right-facing corner adjacent to Lithium Fry-Up. Climb the well protected corner to a small spike at the top and pull steeply left around the arete at the top.
Wee Buttress (ND 343 421)This is the smaller buttress directly north from Big Buttress across the geo and although titled Wee Buttress, it is 25m high. A deep chimney bisects it and the following routes lie on the left-hand section which has a large non-tidal ledge running along the front, and a pillar formation in the middle. The top is a bit scrambly.
Mini Mii 25m VS 4c *. Raymond Wallace, Rob Christie. 25 Sep 2010.From the left side of the ledge, step left around the pillar into the base of an open groove. Climb the groove to a small roof that is turned to the right then follow the crack above.
Crib Robber 25m E1 5a *. Raymond Wallace, Rob Christie. 25 Sep 2010.Climbs the thin, left-trending crack in the middle of the slab with a couple of difficult moves to reach a ledge. Step off the ledge to mount and climb the blunt arete on the right.
Wii Play 25m HVS 5a *. Raymond Wallace, Rob Christie. 25 Sep 2010.Climb the left-facing corner until forced to make some awkward moves through the corner of the roof then follow the crack through the prow above.
There may be Dolphins 25m VS 4c *. Rob Christie, Raymond Wallace. 25 Sep 2010.To the right of the big ledge, climb the slabby pillar to an open groove passing a block.
OCCUMSTER, Main Area:So It Goes 20m HVS 4c **. Ross Jones, Matt Dent, Clare Jones. 22 Aug 2010.Climb the wall right of Tralfamadorian and left of the arete on excellent rock and spaced protection. The best route in the main area.
Cave AreaTen metres south of an arch in the north-east tip of the headland to the north of the Cave Area is a large hanging corner.
Mada-chuain 20m VS 4c. Ross Jones, Matt Dent, Clare Jones. 22 Aug 2010.Climb easy ledges to the corner at 10m and climb this to the top. Mada-chuain is gaelic for Killer Whale.
LATHERONWHEEL – Notes from Ross Jones:
The largest stack was climbed by John Sanders in 1998 prior to Simon Richardson and Mark Robson. John also found abseil tat on his ascent.Don’t Think Twice (1998). Rab Anderson suggests 2 stars (SMCJ 2006) as the final easy bit is not good and invariably will have a fulmar. However as a route it remains an absolute classic with fine pumpy climbing through a daunting overhang.Big Flat Wall Area - Personalized Dwarf (2005): The line of the original ascent isn’t logical and the line has been climbed direct which is better and does not change the grade of the route. We thought the grade was Hard Severe 4b. A better description would be: 12m Climb the wall left of Looking for the Line and right of the arete. A picture and a topo provided.The line for Looking for the Line (2002) is also incorrectly shown in the 2004 guide topo on p383. The topo shows the route going into the right-facing corner at one-third height. The route goes straight up the middle of the wall left of the corner.
ORKNEY, Yesnaby:Many new routes have climbed by Neil Morrison & Tim Rankin, while others have been deep water soloed by Julian Lines and friends. The exact details have yet to be sorted.
Roseness:Neil Morrison & Tim Rankin climbed four new routes in July 2011.1. E6 arete right of Paul’s Stall starting just right of that route and forging straight over the prow.2. E1/2 on the right side of the arete right of the above and Paul’s Stall.3. E1/2 right again up a cracked wall.4. E1 squeezed in right of the cracked wall.
HOY:Longhope Direct 455m E10/11 ***. Dave MacLeod, Andy Turner. 21 Jun 2011.A free ascent of the original aided crack in the headwall of Drummond and Hill’s Longhope Route. This straightens out the A2 crack pitch with a more direct entry to the crack and finish through the final roofs. A sparing approach to protection with long slings is required to make the long weaving pitches possible. But this is important to save energy for the crux pitch and to make it feasible as a one-day ascent. The grade is for a one-day ascent without falls. The route follows that taken by the Arran/Turnbull free version as far as the Guillotine. Start at a boulder platform near the right end of a clean red wall.1. 55m 5c Climb up trending left, then back up right to a big detached block. Climb boldly over the bulge to an easier section working up right on good rock, then back left and up a corner to a belay beneath the centre of a large roof.2. 50m 6a Hard moves just right of a thin crack in the roof lead to good gear. Climb the right-slanting corner to a good ledge. Move right and continue in the same line, then traverse left along an enormous concave break to belay at the edge of the grass.3. 110m 5b Move up and left on steep grass. At the left edge of a barrier, follow a rock slab and continue up, and then leftwards on bulging grass and slabs to the foot of the left-facing corner system in the upper wall (belay possible here at 70m). Move together up the slab, corner and pleasant walls above to a belay below steep left-facing chimneys.4. 50m 6a Climb the chimneys, then swing left for 5m and climb the ‘vile crack’ via two chockstones (Camalot 5 useful). Swing 3m left at its top to a nut belay on a large flake.5. 60m 5c Go up the flake and right around a roof, then up to a second roof and traverse left to sandy red bulges. Move up a series of steps and climb a green crack to the huge break. Walk left along the break over big boulders to belay below the left facing corner.6. 65m 5c Climb the corner, step right and continue direct over steps, then move 10m left to a niche. Move right up the ‘giant steps’ then stomach traverse left to a short corner. Climb the corner, and flakes above to the Guillotine. Bold.
7. 65m 6c Traverse left along the break, then climb the overhanging wall boldly to the base of the headwall crack. Climb this past several cruxes to a small ledge below the capping roofs. Move up to these, step right and then climb leftwards through two roofs. Move right to fulmar ledges and climb grassy ledges to the summit. F8b+ climbing.
Rora Head, Gully 3:Slick John 40m E4 6a **. Dave MacLeod, Andy Turner. 20 Jun 2011.An attractive finger crack in the centre of the wall, left of Rosamund’s Birthday. Abseil to a footledge on Rosamund’s Birthday about 8m above the grassy start of that route. Climb Rosamund’s Birthday for a few metres to its normal belay. Traverse left along a ledge to a prominent right-slanting wide crack. Climb this for a few metres, then break out left to gain the striking thin finger crack. Climb this on great rock and protection to the top.
Rubblehouse Wall 40m E2 5b. Andy Turner, Dave MacLeod. 20 Jun 2011.The right-hand of two cracks in the wall directly opposite Rosamund’s Birthday. Abseil to a footledge at the foot of the cracks. Climb rightwards on dubious rock to gain the line of the right-hand crack. Follow this with slightly less difficulty but sustained climbing with some loose holds remaining.
SOUTH RONALDSAY:Note: Mick Tighe and friends have climbed many routes at Halcro Head which is about 1km north of Tomb of the Eagles – no details yet.
SHETLAND, RONAS CLIFFS, Cleras Wall:(HU 307 900) Non-tidal South-South-East facingThe crag provides a fine and remote venue. The rock is grey diorite with red micro-granite intrusions. The wall and geo can be easily located by the wall that meets the eastern edge of the geo. The wall can be easily seen from a scramble down the cliff opposite. The routes are located on the west end of the south wall. There is also a hidden unclimbed west facing wall which is capped by an impressive high hanging wall. It is possible to drive along the gravel track from North Roe to park near a gate at HU 329 905 or by 4x4 to HU 312 897. The crag is a 40 or 10mins walk respectively. Access is by abseil.The first four routes are on a slab left of the west facing corner. The routes start from shallow ledges.
Flintstone’s Arete 35m Hard Severe 4a. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 17 Jun 2011.Climb the wall and arete.
Monkey Does Not Beg 35m Very Difficult. Paul Whitworth, Pete Kayll, Andrew Hunter. 22 Apr 2011.The large crack-line left of centre up the slab.
Cleras Slab 35m E2 5b *. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 17 Jun 2011.The slab and hanging capping wall between the crack-line and corner. Climb the slab 3m left of the corner (bold at mid-height) direct to an inverted V-groove in the hanging headwall. Climb the groove and pull up right onto the hanging wall above and climb this to finish.
Nobody Moves My Monkey 40m Severe. Pete Kayll, Andrew Hunter. 22 Apr 2011.Start 5m below the hanging left-facing corner. Climb the corner and below the hanging wall to exit.
Simmer Blink Crack 25m Very Difficult *. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 17 Jun 2011.Belay at the point where the wall becomes vertical and climb the crack. The lower 5m section above the overhang was climbed from a hanging belay at HVS 4c.
Hamara Crack 35m E2 5c *. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 17 Jun 2011.Belay on the ledge beneath Simmer Blink Crack on the hanging wall. Climb the small broken rib on the right on to a small sloping platform below a hanging crack. Climb up and pull left into the crack. Climb this and then directly up the easier wall to finish up the steepening wall on the right to finish. Fine climbing through the lower section.
ESHANESS:The following are new descriptions and routes sent by Ross Jones.
Achilles Last Stand 45m E1 5a * (SMCJ 2005)The huge chimney in the corner right of the south wall. Belay on a ledge on the left at the bottom of the chimney at the base of an obvious crack. Climb this and the chimney, stepping left 10m from the top to finish up an easier groove.Alternative Start: E1 5b *. Jon MacRobert, Ross Jones. 13 Jun 2010.From the belay for Angrist, pull through the roof and a hanging flake and move up and right to the chimney.
Ceremony Pending 40m HVS 5a **. Ross Jones, Jon MacRobert. 13 Jun 2010.From the ledge below Mary, move up and right and climb the left crack-line to pull through a small roof and then the wall above right of Mary.
Scooty Alan 40m HVS 5a *** (SMCJ 2005)From the belay for Mary, traverse up and right to the base of the right crack to where it starts just above a roof. Climb the crack and the wall directly to a ledge just short of the top. Pull over the bulge to a further ledge and go easily up a final short corner.
Third Stone from the Sun (SMCJ 2005) has still not had a second ascent despite its 4 stars. It is often wet from seepage although the line remains clean. The current description for access is confusing. It is best located by abseiling down the line directly 3m north of the slimy recess in the large platform beneath the lighthouse.
Thranduil 35m E2 5b **. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner, Andrew Hunter. 10 Jun 2011.Fine climbing up the wall and arete to the left of Sunday Morning with a bold crux before pulling up the final hanging headwall to finish.
Pinkerton 25m E1 5b **. Paul & Al Whitworth. Summer 2006.The short corner and awkward roof between Cruel Sea and White Noise.
The first two routes below climb the west facing wall between Glamdring and wall of Black Watch.
Lost Squacco 20m Hard Severe 4a. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 7 Jun 2011.Abseil to a ledge in the centre of the wall 5m above the overhang. Traverse out left and climb the wall right of the arete, taking the small overhang on the left. The rock is brittle and gear is poor.
Durin’s Bain 40m E1 *. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 7 Jun 2011.An outstanding first pitch that pulls through the overhang onto the west facing wall above. The second pitch suffers from some poor rock. Best approached by abseil to the
belay for Black Watch. Start from tidal platforms left and below the belay for Black Watch.1. 20m 5b Climb the wall and make a rising leftwards traverse to beneath the large overhangs. Continue left onto a hanging section beneath the roof. Make an exposed pullout (0.5 Friend for protection) around and up onto the west wall.2. 20m 4a Climb the wall direct to the top.
Hanging Crack E1 5a * (2004) (Reworded)From the belay of Black Watch, climb left and up under the roof to pull through into a large hanging corner-crack. Follow this to a ‘rigos’ style finish.
Rocking Horse Ridge (previous called Aero Arete - SMCJ 2006) HVS 4c * (Reworded).From the sloping ledge below the arete, climb the slabby right wall of the arete to a roof. Make steep moves left through this with good holds leading to a jug romp up the upper arete and V-groove.
Gothmog 30m E1 5a. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner, Andrew Hunter. 10 Jun 2011.Climb directly up the poorly protected wall from the belay ledge for Black Watch to half-height before making a rising airy traverse to the arete of Rocking Horse Ridge. Finish up the V-groove come corner.
Immediately right of Tirricks is a cleft. The next two routes are immediately right of this.
Charlie’s Sheen 25m VS 4c. Al & Paul Whitworth, Peter Sawford. Sep 2006.The left-slanting crack and right-facing corner.
Charlie 32 35m HVS 5a. Peter Sawford, Paul Whitworth. Sep 2006.The corner groove and flake right of Charlie’s Sheen.
The next route climbs the hanging west facing wall between Team Specsavers and Swells Up.
Racing Eddies 15m HVS 4c. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 15 Jun 2011.From a hanging belay in a niche in the overhang and roof, climb the centre of the wall trending leftwards up the line of least resistance before finishing in the centre of the wall.
Barney Crumble 15m HVS 4b. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 13 Jun 2011.The wide crumbly wall above a large ledge to the right of Mustn’t Crumble. Start on the right side for 3m before moving left and climbing up the centre to the top.
STUVVA HEAD:(HU 202 782) Tidal and Non-tidal North and South facingOn the north facing walls on Stuvva Head opposite Swell’s Up are steep and generally poor rock. To the west end of the Head are a series of ramps which hold the following routes.
Croft House Stairs 25m Very Difficult *. Alan Ratter, Paul Whitworth. Summer 2005.Climb the first (most easterly) large stepped ramp.
The next two ramps are broken and appear to consist of poor rock. The final small ramp has two routes that start from a belay platform just short of the arete where the cliff turns west.
The Waves of Woohoo 20m Hard Severe 4a. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 14 Jun 2011.
Climb the ramp easily to mid-height, then the vertical corner-crack and ramp above to finish.
The Waves of Woohoo Two 20m HVS 5a David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 14 Jun 2011.Climb the thin crack to the right of the ledge and wall directly above to join the arete at 8m before finishing up the arete.
On the south side of Stuvva Head, 150m west of the cave, the wall is split into two sections with a lower wall of pocketed conglomerate and an upper wall of hard sharp rock. This area can be easily accessed by an easily protected step from ledges at the furthest point west on to ledges above the lower wall. The three triangular ledges provide easy access for the upper walls.
Total Loss 20m Hard Severe. Paul Whitworth, Alan Ratter. Summer 2005.The large corner below the first and second triangular ledge.
A Single Cask 15m HVS 5a *. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 14 Jun 2011.Climb the small wall directly above the corner to an overhang. Step left and pull up rightwards on the wall above. Climb this direct up the steepest section.
Leith Merchant 15m VS 5a. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 14 Jun 2011.Pull up into the niche below small roofs and left of the hanging prow to the right of the second triangular ledge. Climb through the small overhang left of a hanging boulder and up the wall above to finish.
Valparaiso Bound 15m VS 5a. Ross ones, David (Sid) Rayner. 14 Jun 2011.Start as for Leith Merchant. From the niche, pull out rightwards on to the hanging prow and climb the wall above.
Stuvva Cave South:Recent storm damage has ripped out the capping overhang at the top of The Charles Jones (SMCJ 2007). Loose rock has now been cleared. The top can be avoided by traversing out right onto the rib to finish. The route has been top roped and is thought E2 5c not 5b.
NIBON:Shetland Silvercraft E2 5c (1994) was repeated by Ross Jones & Andrew Hunter and is excellent climbing on perfect micro-granite and deserves 3 stars.
Unnamed 10m Severe 4a. Al Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 4 Jun 2011.Climbs a series of shallow stepped corner-grooves right of Borderline and left of the chimney.
The next feature south of The Tango o’ the Islesis the large geo mentioned in the guide. The next two routes start from a black ledge at below a left-facing corner on the left side of the north (south facing) wall.
Boo Boo 35m HVS 5a (1994) (Reworded)Climb the corner, then the continuation twin cracks over a bulge (crux) and the crack system to the top.
The Ecstasy of Gold 35m E1 5b. Andrew Hunter, Ross Jones, Paul Whitworth. 15 Jun 2010.
Climb the corner of Boo Boo to pull out on to a ledge below the bulge with twin cracks. Traverse 4m right to a left-facing corner come niche. Pull through this and climb the slightly right-trending crack-line above to the top.
Yogi Braer 30m VS 4c (1994) (Reworded)From the ledge below Stridey Legs Crack, move left and up to gain a groove. Climb this and the continuation crack to gain the fine twin cracks up the slab and go direct to the top.
Stridey Legs Crack 30m E3 6a **. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones, Andrew Hunter. 18 Jun 2011.From a good ledge 15m above the sea, climb the steep left-facing corner and crack pulling out right at the top of the corner before pulling left onto a ledge/niche and the sloping wall above. Climb the left-facing corner-crack trending left towards the top to finish up right through the final capping ramp.
The next three routes start from the large ledge on the west seaward facing wall which is capped by a large overhang. The left side of the wall is bounded by stepped ledges in the lower half.
Da Njugle 40m E2 5b **. Ross Jones, Andrew Hunter. 15 Jun 2010.Climb the left crack that breaks up through the ledges on perfect rock to where the wall steepens to overhanging flakes at half-height. Step left to join Stridey Legs Crack onto the ledge/niche and climb the crack on the north facing wall for 3m before pulling out right onto the west facing wall. Climb small breaks with limited protection to gain a large hanging flake at 8m and a small right-facing corner. Finish up the hanging crack above.
On the wall to the right of the overhang are two large slanting parallel cracks up immaculate rock. Belay on the large ledge to the left.
Fulmarfication 45m E1 5b **. David (Sid) Rayner, Ross Jones. 9 Jun 2011.Climb the left crack, climbing the inside of the chimney before pulling out on to the right wall and ascend to easier ground at mid-height. Climb the corner shared with Puissance to the top.
Tystie Crack 45m E2 5c ***. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 9 Jun 2011.Climb the right crack. Pull through the overhang with difficulty and continue up to easier ground at mid-height. Take the next section on the right to a ledge. Climb the broken crack-line 3m right of the corner in the wall above to the top.
Right of the slab of JLS, Spelemeninhir etc. the crag turns back into a small geo, the opposite side of which forms the prominent buttress visible from the road-end at Nibon. The next climb takes the obvious crack and corner line up the nose of this.
Circling Sharks 40m VS 4c *. Peter Sawford, Andy Long. 21 Jul 2009.Start from a jagged block at the bottom (abseil). Move left into the crack and climb this, awkwardly at first, then more easily, finishing up the short left-facing corner.
MUCKLE ROE, Picts Ness:(HU 297 638) The map ref in SMCJ 2006 was wrong.
Sea Walls:Tidal North-West facing
The rock here is hard wave washed granite and provides the best climbing. From the northerly end of the igneous band that runs south to north across Picts Ness and where it meets the Walls of Troll, scramble up onto a platform directly west of Troll Catcher and head north jumping over a deep slot to the west of the Walls of Troll. Rain-gös is on the north-west facing wall of the deep slot. Scramble down 20m further north on ledges to sea-washed ledges. The first two routes are a few metres south on the north-west facing wall.
Brongie 30m Hard Severe 4b. Ross Jones, Clare Bradley. 29 Oct 2009.Climb the large groove and chimney to the left.
Alamootie 25m VS 4c **. Ross Jones, Clare Bradley. 29 Oct 2009.Start at the bottom of the chimney-groove. Climb up and rightwards on flakes to a break at 6m. Climb the flake above to a ledge and leftwards to a V-groove. Pull through this and finish leftwards. Direct Finish: E1 5b. The right-facing corner and wall directly above the wall above the V-groove.
Corbie 25m E2 5b **. Jon MacRobert, Ross Jones. 14 Jun 2010.At the far right end of the wall, climb the flake and then easy ground up the right edge of the wall to flake shared with Alamootie. Climb this to a ledge and then up the slightly overhanging wall on small crimps. Bold and fine climbing.
The next route is accessed by traversing round the side of the north-west facing wall to a wave washed platform in front of another north-west facing wall with two parallel vertical cracks. To the left is a deep slot.
Rain-gös 25m E1 5b **. Ross Jones, Jon MacRobert. 14 Jun 2010.From the platform, step across a narrow slot and climb the right crack to a break at half-height. Climb the crack above with difficulty onto a ledge on the right and then the crack above pulling rightwards at the top to finish.
The chimney at the back of the slot was climbed by Mick Tighe & party on 18 Jun 2006 and good rock was reported after the “seaweed and slime infested” lower section.
The next route is at the most southerly tip of Picts Ness. Follow the igneous plug of rock to the end. The corner is just beyond this. It provides a classic corner marred only by seaweed at its base.
South Corner:Tidal South-East facing
Traditional Values 20m Severe *. Ross Jones, Jon MacRobert. 14 Jun 2010.Climb the corner-crack and wall above.
SKELDA NESS, Spoot-hellier, Hellier Wall:The left side of the wall has a steep lower wall with a rising ramp on the right to an upper headwall.
Up 25m E1 5b. Ross Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 11 Jun 2011.Start in the centre of the left-hand section up steep horizontal breaks, pulling on to the right-facing V-corner ledge of Scarface, before stepping back onto the wall and climbing direct across the traverse of Scarface and through the hanging wall above to finish.
THE COALL:
This area covers a number of walls and geos and is a 15mins walk from the main road. The rock is mélange, a rare example of lithified scree. Coall Head is south of a bay with two sea-stacks. Access is by abseil or a scramble down ledges at the south end of the wall. The areas are described from north to south.
North Walls:(HU 441341) Non-tidal South-East facing These are the walls just to the north of North Stack (HU 441 340).
Sticky Sickie 25m Severe. Ruairidh Mackenzie, Jared Deeney. 1 Aug 2006.Climb the gully at the bottom of the main wall for 3m, then into an off-width bottom section of a crack. Take the left crack at a fork at half-height. Some loose rock at the top.
Escapism 15m Hard Severe 4c. Al Whitworth, Paul Whitworth. 2 Mar 2008.After a tricky start off the ledge, climb broken cracks up the middle of the wall. Good climbing despite appearances.
North Stack 20m Mild VS. Andy Long, Jim Grunberg. Jul 1986.Climb an overhang on the south side and then traverse around to the seaward side and climb this to the top. A block has now come off the bottom and the route has not been repeated.
On the headland that splits the two bays is the following small north facing wall.
Douri Crag (HU 441 340) Non-tidal North facing A small black crag over looking North Stack. Access by a scramble down a grassy chute half way down the slope. Stake belays (not in-situ).
Vertical Vomit 20m HVS 5b. Ruairidh Mackenzie, Andrew Hunter. Apr 2008.Start up a slab to an overhanging corner. Go out and over the overhang for the crux move and an easy finish following the corner to the top.
Skorey Suicide 15m VS 4c. Andrew Hunter, Ruairidh Mackenzie. 8 May 2008.Climb the corner to the left of the big half-height ledge. A bit loose near the top.
Erne Wall:(HU 441 338) Non-tidal South-East facingThis is the slabby wall on the left on the scramble down to Erne Stack and South Stack.
A Peerie Bit Toodery 50m Difficult. Tommy & Kelly Robertson. 2 Nov 2008.1. 25m Climb the deep broken chimney in the centre of the wall to a large ledge at half-height.2. 25m Follow a crack on either side of large perched boulder. Poor gear and loose rock.
Erne Stack (HU 441 338):North Arete 40m HVS 4c. John Morrison, Graham Anderson. 1996.Climb the stepped and poorly protected arete to a large ledge (belay). Join the original route to finish.
Original Route 30m Very Difficult. Andy Long, John Morrison. 1996.The obvious crack-line in the landward side of the stack
South Stack:South Stack 15m Difficult. Andy Long, John Morrison. 1996.
Climb the landward face and before pulling up on the ridge and the top
Coall Head:(HU 441 337) Mainly non-tidal Mainly east facingCan't Quit, Won't Quit 30m Hard Severe 4b *. Al Whitworth, Paul Whitworth. 12 Jan 2008.To the right of the lichen covered wall, start up the awkward cracks and continue direct through the systems of breaks above.
Storm Trooper 40m Hard Severe 4a **. Al Whitworth, Tommy Robertson 20 Jan 2008 The obvious traverse starting on the narrow ridge and then into a series of corners on the far right of the wall.
Short for a Storm Trooper 35m Severe **. Tommy & Kelly Robertson. 10 Feb 2008.Starting as for Storm Trooper, then onto the crack-line of Can't Quit, Won't Quit. Avoids the main difficulties of both routes.
Speeding Whales Traverse 60m Hard Severe *** Paul Whitworth, Al Whitworth. 12 Jan 2008.1. 40m 4b From below the large roof system, traverse right-slanting cracks to join a large vertical crack. 2. 20m 4a Climb up and left to move into the final right-trending corner and slab.
Boomercam 60m VS 4c * Paul Whitworth, Al Whitworth. 2 Mar 2008.A brilliantly exposed thrutchy extravaganza with bomber pro all the way. 1. 40m 4c The obvious off-width break.2. 20m 4a Continue to the top.
The Gloves Come Off 40m Very Difficult **. Al Whitworth, Paul Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 16 Feb 2008.1. 25m Climb the obvious corner ramp on superb rock to the niche at the middle of the 'X'. 2. 15m Continue up right on the slab as for Speeding Whales.Direct Finish: 2a. 10m 4b A direct more interesting finish. Continue up the left crack and pull through the breaks in an exposed position with good gear.
Gloved Up 40m HVS 5a *. Jon MacRobert, Paul Whitworth. 12 Jun 2010.1. 20m Start as for The Gloves Come Off climbing the easy ramp to belay at the base of a right-slanting crack.2. 20m Make difficult moves to gain the slanting crack and climb this to the top.
NESS OF HAMAR:The coast around Riva Geo, Riva Head and along to Silvi Geo provide a range of climbs up 20m.Approach: The area is best approached by parking just before the gate to the croft at The Berg (HU 3119 7606) and then contouring around the hills (45mins). Lamp Geo is described in SMCJ 2007.
Pinnacle Crag:(HU 297 742) Partly Tidal South and West facingA short steep wall above a mainly non-tidal shelf bordered by a pinnacle shaped rock.
Query 12m Hard Severe 4b. Peter Sawford. 12 Apr 2008.
Climb the blocky lower left side of the wall left of the main face and move around on to the wall on the other side of the arete to climb this.
Thin Middle 12m HVS 5a *. Paul Whitworth, Al Whitworth. 12 Apr 2008.Pull onto the wall left of the rift line across the left-hand wall and climb to the top.
Hamar n' Nails 10m Very Difficult. Paul Whitworth. 2006.The corner left of the main face.
The Long Short Route 12m Hard Severe *. Andy Long. 2006.Traverse up and rightwards onto a ledge at mid-height and climb the crack above.
The Long Short Route Direct 10m HVS 5a **. Al Whitworth, Paul Whitworth. 12 Apr 2008.Climb the wall to a ledge below the crack. Climb the crack to the top.
Ten metres right of the main face is a short corner below a ledge at half-height.
Pulling Your Leg 12m HVS 5b. Andrew Hunter, Al Whitworth. 17 May 2008.Climb the corner and pull out leftwards into a small niche. Climb this and the wall and shallow groove above.
Lined Up 10m VS 4b *. Al Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 17 May 2008.Four metres right of the corner is a right-slanting groove on the left of a blocky ramp. Climb the groove and the crack-line on the wall above.
Peter Piper 12m Hard Severe. Peter Sawford. 12 Apr 2008.Climbs the groove of Lined Up and continues up and rightwards to the top.
A Little Flaky 8m Hard Severe 4b. Ross Jones, Paul Whitworth. 17 May 2008.The rib to the right.
The deep V-grooved chimney to the right is Difficult. Right of this is a line that climbs a broken crack-line at HVS 5a (Paul Whitworth, Jon Posnett 2004).
Dragon Geo:(HU 297 743) Partly Tidal (high tide only) South-West facingOn the sea wall to the left of the geo are the following routes from right to left:
Black Comedy 10m VS 4c. Andy Long, Andrew Hunter. May 2006.Climb the chimney narrowing to an off-width awkward crack.
Shuffle & Throw 10m Hard Severe 4b *. Paul Whitworth, Al Whitworth. May 2006.Shuffle on to a lower slab and then up a steeper wall.
Skinny Slab Crack 10m Hard Severe 4a. Paul Whitworth, Tommy Robertson. May 2006.Climb a thin crack on the slab to gain a good shelf and the wall above.
On the west facing walls leading to Medusa Wall, a number of 7-10m routes have been climbed from Very Difficult to E2 by Al and Paul Whitworth, Peter Sawford and Andrew Hunter. Most provide good, but short entertainment.
Riva Head (HU 295 743):
An arch of concertinaed rock lies on the east side. The jamming crack on the right of this has been climbed at 10m VS 4c * (Peter Sawford). The 6-8m black walls on the headland have been climbed up to E1 5b (Jon Posnett & Paul Whitworth).
Ness of Sound:Hake That 40m E3 5b **. Dave Brown, Andy Reeve. 19 Jun 2011.Start up The Canch to the large bay. Climb cracks just left of the right side of the bay to an overhang. Pull right around this and go up cracks to finish at the top of the grassy ramp.
Mud, Choss and Blisters 40m HVS 4c. Paul Whitworth, David (Sid) Rayner, Andrew Hunter. Sep 2009.A great looking left-hand line that turns horrible once you've committed. Not recommended. Start as for Feeler Gauge.
Unnamed 45m HVS 5a*. David (Sid) Rayner, Andrew Hunter, Paul Whitworth. Sep 2009.Start as for Feeler Gauge but climb the wall directly above rather than traversing rightwards.
Rusna Stacks:Rusna Stack 60m VS. Dave Brown, Andy Reeve. 20 Jun 2011.Probably the first ascent of the most prominent, closest and largest of this group of stacks (HU 210 470), by the seaward ridge. Gained by a 20m swim. Two pitches (35m 4b, 25m -), reversed then abseiled.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS CENTRAL
SLIOCH:Katabasis 300m VI,6. Simon Richardson, Roger Webb. 15 Feb 2011.A sustained mountaineering line up the left edge of Main Buttress. Start just left of the lower tier and climb easy turfy ground (to the right of Slioch Slim Plan) to the first terrace. Move right along the terrace for 40m and climb a series of corners until they merge with the broad left crest. Continue up this, then traverse right below the final headwall to join the final cracks of Xenophen and gain the Neck. Another 150m of scrambling up the connecting ridge leads to the summit.
STONE VALLEY CRAGS, The Valley Walls:Windy Cracks 15m Severe. Stuart Macfarlane, Jeannie Northover. 2 Jun 2011.In the bay beyond Three Stepped Slab is a short steep crack. Climb this and move slightly left to another hidden crack that continues to the top. The bottom crack is Severe and the upper crack Difficult.
Flowerdale Beag:(NG 868 719) Alt 270m South-West facingApproach: As for Flowerdale Wall. This crag is just below and slightly to the left of Flowerdale Wall. It provides short routes suitable for novices.Descent: Walk off to the right.
Too Windy for Blood Suckers 10m Severe. Jeannie Northover, Stuart Macfarlane. 2 Jun 2011.An eliminate up the wall between Cracking On and Central Crack. Use of either crack is not permitted for holds. Central Crack may be required for gear by the less bold.
Rowan Wall 10m Severe. Stuart Macfarlane, Jeannie Northover. 2 Jun 2011.An eliminate up the wall to the right of Central Crack. The use of Central Crack and the crack-line to the right is not permitted for holds or gear.
Cracking On 10m Very Difficult. Jeannie Northover, Stuart Macfarlane. 2 Jun 2011.The first crack-line left of Central Crack.
Central Crack 10m Very Difficult. Stuart Macfarlane, Jeannie Northover. 2 Jun 2011.The most obvious and central crack-line.
Caterpillar Crag:Chrysalis 12m VS 4c. Rod Mackenzie, Elke Braun. 1 May 2011.Start about 2m right of the bottom of the third crack. Climb up to a slabby bulge, pull up rightwards through middle of the bulge, then trend right over a sloping ledge to finish.
Rum Doodle Crag:Rum Doodle Arete – Variation Finish VS 4c. Jeannie Northover, Stuart Macfarlane. 1 May 2011.Rather than walk off or climb a straightforward groove on the left, a better finish is to climb the steep crack on the back wall.
Red Barn Crag:Dogfight 20m VS 4c. Jonathan Preston, John Lyall. 27 Sep 2010.Climb the cracked wall left of A Load of Old Bosche to a wide heather ledge. Cross the ledge and make a few moves up the wide corner-crack on the right, then follow the obvious crack in the wall on the left to finish at the top of Curse you Red Barn.
Stone Valley Crag:Arete Direct 25m VS 4c. Jeannie Northover, Rod Mackenzie, Stuart Macfarlane. 3 Jun 2011.To the right of the prominent corner of Updraught is an arete. Climb the arete direct and continue to the top. This route joins onto Updraught but is a more direct start.
AZTEC TOWER:The Inca Trail 15m VS 4c. Stuart Macfarlane, Jeannie Northover. 5 Jun 2011.Start at the base of Warrior God and follow the left-diagonal crack out to the arete of Conquistador and then continue up the arete.
LETH CHREAG:Lethargy 25m VS 4c. Bob Brown, John Mackenzie. 28 Apr 2011.Immediately to the left of Spider Corner is an overlapped slab (well right of the corner of the Direct Start to Spiral Staircase). Climb the overlap and slab leftwards to a ledge. Step across left and finish up Spiral Staircase. A good start but a poor finish.
GRUINARD CRAGS, Gruinard Beach:Willie Crackit 7m VS 4c **. Jonathan de Leyser, Ruaridh Forbes. 30 May 2011.A route on a rock about 40m west of Beach Crag. On the map it looks like a small island but it is joined to land even at high tide. Access is same for Beach Crag, a walk along the beach at low tide. The line on the rock is south facing and not accessible at high tide. It is an obvious 7m vertical hand-jam crack slanting slightly leftwards and overhanging slightly at the top.
Carn Goraig:Pure Deid Brilliant 15m E1 5b **. Jonathan Preston (unsec). 30 Apr 2011.
The left-slanting crack-line immediately left of The Wicked. Climb the crack passing three triangular holes to finish rightwards via a fine flake-crack.
The Not So Bad 12m VS 4c *. Jonathan Preston (unsec). 30 Apr 2011.The corner at the left end of the wall. Bridge up the corner, stepping up and left at a small roof to stand on a large block. Finish up the crack above passing a small tree.
Faerie Crags, Corner Crag:On the north-west face is a scooped area with a skull face right of the most overhanging section of wall. Three routes gain the scoop by the same line of weakness, then take different exits.
Golgotha 15m HVS 5a. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.Gain the scoop by slanting left on good holds, then continue working left in an exposed position to finish up a corner which gains the top of the left arete of the scoop.
Nose Direct 15m HVS 5a. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.Gain the scoop and climb straight up to finish up a short overhanging crack.
Eyebright 15m E2 5b. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.Gain the scoop and move right to climb a steep groove, finishing out left at a capping roof (one rest). The pro is fiddley initially but very good on the steep section so the grade is because it’s tiring placing it.
Elphin Crack 12m VS 4c. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.Right of Wild Goose Chase is a heathery corner. This route takes a left-slanting crack system just to the right. Continue in the same line to the top.
The Sidhe 15m Hard Severe 4b. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.Climb a right-slanting crack in brown rock right of Elphin Crack. Keep trending right to finish by a short left-slanting corner.
Faerie Crags, Mystic Wall:At the right end of the long wall which is the main section of Mystic Wall is a south-west facing wall of clean red rock.
Alysium 20m Hard Severe 4c. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 22 Apr 2011.At the right end of this red wall, follow a right-slanting corner, finishing up a ramp out right.
AN TEALLACH AREA, Mullach Coire Mhic Fearchair:Slaying the Ghost 120m VI,6. Simon Richardson, Roger Webb. 2 Jan 2011.The prominent corner-line in the centre of the crag.1. 20m Start 5m right of the line of the corner and climb a stepped chimney-slot to a prominent ledge cutting across the face.2. 50m Move up and left across steep mixed ground to gain the foot of the upper corner.3. 20m Traverse up and right into the bulging corner and climb it (thin ice on the first ascent) to a terrace.4. 30m Surmount a large chokestone above and continue up easier ice and snow to the top.
Junction Buttress:Injunction 130m HVS *. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall, Simon Yearsley. 3 May 2011.
Immediately left of the main change of aspect of the cliff (which forms a blunt arete leading to the biggest forest on the crag) is a pocketed wall, cleaner and steeper on its left side.1. 35m 5a Climb this wall, starting on the right and trending left to its left arete. Belay on a tree on its left side.2. 35m 4b Continue up the arete to the left end of the forest.3. 25m 4c Go up a wall behind to reach a diagonal fault. Follow this diagonally right and go up to a ledge.4. 35m 4b Climb a slabby wall above to the top.
Clapham 100m HVS **. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall, Simon Yearsley. 3 May 2011.The right end of clean slabs at the right end of the cliff.1. 15m 4a Start by climbing broken but tricky ground to an area of slightly lower angled slab.2. 45m 4c Climb this diagonally right to a break, then straight up via an obvious crack in an upper slab to a ledge. Poorly protected initially.3. 25m 4b Climb a slab above, cross Rightward Slant and climb another slab on the left to reach a smooth upper wall.4. 15m 5b Climb the wall by a thin seam slanting right (5b) or an easier line of pockets to its right (4b).
AN TEALLACH, Ghlas Tholl, Hayfork Wall:The Wailing Wall 90m IX,9 ***. Murdoch Jamieson, Martin Moran. 23 Dec 2010.Takes the left side of the upper Hayfork Wall which presents a superb fissured face 70m high, potentially one of the finest mixed climbing venues in the country. With a high altitude (900-970m) the wall gathers snow readily and is often in condition. Start up right of the chimney of Haystack at a turfy promontory directly under the centre of the wall and 6m left of the corner of Silver Fox.1. 45m Climb the turfy wall to reach a narrow terrace, traverse 8m left and make hard committing moves up a leftward diagonal break through the overhang to a small wedged block. Make thin moves leftwards to gain the base of a slim corner-crack which is followed to a ledge and belay at a huge block. A magnificent pitch.2. 45m Climb on to the block and go left up a steep flakey wall, continuing for 12m to a break under a compact section. Move left to a huge flake (optional hanging belay) and traverse sensationally left to gain a bottomless chimney which is climbed to the top (block belay 8m up and right).
Note: Martin Hind & Owen Samuels climbed a direct start to Crashed Out (SMCJ 2007) on 19 Jan 2011, named Hay Heck, graded VII,6. They climbed directly up a nose left of the start of Crashed Out, crossed it at its ledge and continued straight up to the top of its corner. After this the routes coincided.
Hay Bale 30m III,5. Roger Webb, James Edwards. 19 Jan 2011.A route on the buttress between the forks. Climb up mixed ground avoiding easier ground on left, left of an obvious corner on left side of the buttress and taking in a big slab higher up to top.
Toll an Lochain, Gobhlach Buttress:Gobhlach Ramp 350m II **. Andy Nisbet. 19 Mar 2011.A big grooved ramp-line which lies on the left side of the buttress. Initially snow with short ice steps, it leads into a recessed section with a steeper exit on ice at its very back.. Immediately above this, take a groove leading out right. This leads to a snow trough with a short step to enter, then the easy upper crest. Probably Grade III when leaner.
Loch Broom:Note: John Mackenzie and Neil Wilson climbed Bonar in Jan 2010 and thought the first pitch Grade IV,4, also the approach 15mins.
STRATHFARRAR, Sgurr na Muice:Flying Pigs 170m III,4 *. Neil Wilson, John Mackenzie. 12 Dec 2010.Takes the chimney and buttress that forms the left branch of If Pigs Could Fly.1. 30m Climb the initial ice step of If Pigs Could Fly, then move up left to a good belay crack below the wide chimney.50m. Climb ice on the left side of the chimney before moving up right, following the chimney past a narrow section to good belays on a ledge on the left. A good interesting pitch very well protected.40m. Step left and climb a wide crack to turf then continue to another wide chimney. Climb this and over an overhang higher to step left above and climb a groove which leads to a big flake belay on the right. Another good pitch, which is also well protected.50m. Straightforward turfy climbing now leads to walking ground with the summit a short distance off to the left.
Makin’ Bacon 300m III,4 *. Mike & Pippa Cocker, John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 28 Jan 2011.This interesting route lies between Pigsty Gully and Three Little Piggies but closer to the former. A small initial tier with an inset turf groove leads to an easy snowfield. Above this is the first of the bigger tiers, cut by a narrow ice and turf runnel, steep at the top, giving a long pitch of 55m. The climb continues up the next snowfield to a prominent slanting corner on the left which has a narrow turf strip up the back. Climb this excellent and quite technical pitch to a small rock spike above, 55m. Move up and left towards the buttress that lies right of Pigsty Gully’s exit and is split centrally by a runnel. Climb the fine narrow runnel to where it splits into two grooves. Both were climbed, the left having a tricky chockstone near the top.
Snatched From the Jaws of Thaw 100m III. John Mackenzie, Eve Austin. 23 Jan 2011.To the left of A Wee Cracker is the overhung groove and to the left again is a prominent corner capped by a roof and a near vertical ice pillar to its left. Brief fun up the ice, pleasant above and often in condition.1. 30m Climb the snowy corner line to the only crack on the corners right wall well below the roof.2. 30m Up to the roof, step left and climb the ice pillar to easier ice or snow to belay above on rock.3. 40m Step right and go up a shallow groove to move left and up to the cornice. This can usually be avoided on the left by a traverse.
STRATHCONON, Scatwell River Slabs:The Lance 20m E2 5c. Raymond Wilby, Claire Hayden, Andrew Wilby. 3 Jul 2010.Start 4m left of the river level start of Northern Line at a small pine tree with a bulbous base. This is 3m right of the direct start of Circle Line. Climb the rib for 8m, with a crux move at 6m (peg runner). This gains a thin crack on the slab (micro wires). Step right onto the slab and climb straight up to the bottom of the crack of Circle Line. Traverse 2m right along a small overlap and go centrally up the slab to climb the wall crossing Northern Line at the double overlap. gain the slab above and go straight up to finish.
The Shield 55m E1 5a. Raymond Wilby, Andrew Wilby. 28 Jul 2010.A traverse of the slabs from right to left.1. 35m 5a Start at the direct start of Circle Line (the bottom of the rib). At 8m follow the overlap leftwards across the slab above a holly tree on an upwards trending line of cracks
and flakes, to belay on Grand Central at a small rowan tree. The central section is run out.2. 20m 5a Follow double increasingly faint cracks to gain the flake on The Joust and follow this to the jammed block on The Tilting Yard. Follow this route to finish.
Creag Ruadh, North-East Face:(NH 273 543) Alt 670mA broken face that has tiers of rock but forms ice in the right conditions. Nothing special but worthwhile if nearby. Descend from the col (or approach from below) between the top of Creag Ruadh and the 740m top to the NW. Contour below the crag to a huge boulder. A broken face with icefalls lies up and right, several possible lines but this appeared the most interesting. All lines are escapable between the tiers.
Creag Ruadh Corner 75m II/III. John Mackenzie. 20 Feb 2011.A discontinuous ice-filled corner lies left of a shallow gully. Climb the three corners separated by easy ground. Some short steep ice sections and good turf leading to the 740m top.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS SOUTH
DRUIM SHIONNACH, West Face:Argentine Chimney 100m V,6 *. Sandy Allan, John Lyall. 3 Jan 2010.1. 50m Start as for Silver Corner up the right-hand chimney to a snow terrace; cross this leftwards to join Silver Slab for a short way. Break diagonally left, heading for a large block and ledge just right of a narrow chimney in a corner. Bold.2. 50m Climb the excellent chimney, then the rocks left of the easy trough of Silver Edge.
Lemon Groove 90m V,6 **. Mark Davidson, Rosie Goolden, Andy Nisbet. 27 Nov 2010.An improbable line past the right side of the bigger right cave, giving an exciting and very helpful pitch. Climb steep snow to reach the start, on the wall below and left of the left and lower cave.1. 20m Climb to the cave, then traverse its right wall to a short groove which leads to turf and the right cave.2. 30m Move right and climb turf steps leading back left to a groove which overlooks the cave and leads up its right edge into a shallow chimney. From its apex, step left on to a turfy slab and go diagonally left up this into a wide turf gully. Follow this to a good crack on the left.3. 40m Climb the gully and its continuation on the right to the top.Note: Continuing up the fault on pitch 2 would join Argentine Chimney and would be a better line.
Macavity 90m V,6 *. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 21 Dec 2010.The fault-line leading past the left side of the bigger right cave.1. 20m As for Lemon Groove to the big cave, although a groove was climbed up the initial awkward wall, which had less ice.2. 40m Climb turf up the left wall of the cave to gain a smaller cave above. Move up left, then pull out right to gain the chimney above the cave. Climb this to the wide turf gully where Lemon Groove joins. Go up this to its top.3. 30m Finish as for Lemon Groove, up a groove on the right, then easy ground.
Magpie Groove 80m VII,8 *. Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran. 19 Jan 2011.
Above the big ramp on the right side of the cliff is a big overhung recess with an appealing smooth corner on its left side. Start as for Bowling Alley.1. 20m Climb the easy icy groove and move right to the start of the big snow ramp; block belay below the corner.2. 35m The corner gives sustained bridging until just under the roof. Place high runners, then swing boldly up left into a shallow chimney which deepens into a cleft. Belay on the higher ramp of Cross-Bow at a flake.3. 30m Climb the turfy walls directly above to the top of the cliff.
CREAG COIRE AN T-SLUGAIN:Note: Mike Lates climbed three routes on the lower cliff in January 2009. Above and left of the lower section of Double Gully is a ramp which has been climbed when Double Gully was deep in powder but is not worth a grade. Starting at the base of this ramp and climbing straight up to a higher ramp is 40m Grade III. Climbing out left from Double Gully about one-third up to the ramp by a steep enclosed chimney is 15m IV. Similar but two-thirds up Double Gully by a steep ice boss is also Grade IV. Topo provided.
THE SADDLE, Carn Mor Coire Mhalagain, Faraway Buttress:(NG 928 124) Alt 820m South-East facingThis buttress lies on a ridge named Carn Mor Coire Mhalagain on the 1:25000 map. The approach over Bealach Coire Mhalagain and traversing the hillside under The Saddle summit is very rough and consolidated snow is recommended. The return along a fine ridge eastwards towards The Saddle summit is perhaps the highlight.
Faraway Groove 100m II. Andy Nisbet. 28 Nov 2010.The buttress has a twin central groove system and the route takes the right groove. Climbed in lean frozen conditions, there were three tricky steps. The last was harder than Grade II but could easily bank up.
FIVE SISTERS, Sgurr na Carnach:Rodent Ridge 200m II/III. Andy Moles, Malcolm Reid. 13 Dec 2010.The ridge line on the right-hand side of Dog’s Leg Gully. The lower part, which starts up grooves behind a large block and continues to a knife-edge crest, was not white enough on the day of first ascent and bypassed, but looks good. Above this the line meets the top of the right branch of Dog’s Leg Gully at a crest. Trend up left from here on mixed ground to emerge next to the left branch of Dog’s Leg Gully, and continue up the broken turfy crest on its right side to the summit. It is often easy to escape into the gully but the crest is more fun.
BEINN FHADA, Coire an Sgairne:Rumbling Ridge 120m III,4. Andy Nisbet. 18 Mar 2011.The second buttress from the left end and separated from the buttress at the left end by an easy gully. It has a sharp rocky crest when seen from the left but most of the difficulties are actually escapable to the right. Follow turfy grooves on the lower crest, which is right of the lower continuation of the sharp crest. These lead into a snow runnel. Take a left branch which leads on to the rocky crest above its difficulties.
BEINN LIATH MHOR, South Face:The followings routes are situated on the large slabby buttress well left of South-East Rib (Highland Scrambles North, p183), roughly mid-way along the South Face, which contains a prominent roof in the centre. The routes ascend either side of the roof. Follow the path from Achnashellach until just short of Loch Coire Lair then climb fairly directly up to the buttress. Descent was by a single abseil from a convenient block (60m ropes).
Doll Restoration 70m Very Difficult. Steve Kennedy, Cynthia Grindley. 22 Apr 2011.
The left-hand line. Start close to the shallow gully on the left and climb the slabby rib defining the left side of the buttress in two pitches.
The Walking Dead 50m VS 4c *. Steve Kennedy, Cynthia Grindley. 22 Apr 2011.The right-hand line. Start about 10m above the right edge, avoiding the lower broken section by traversing left a short distance along a narrow grassy ledge until below a corner with some pale coloured rock. Take a line close to the corner to reach a ledge on the left below the clean upper slabs and a left-facing corner containing some large blocks (35m). Climb the corner then move left and finish up the thin slabby wall above the right end of the roof - crux (15m).
SGORR RUADH, Central Couloir:Note: Below and left of the start to Mayfair (SMCJ 2008) is a long shallow chimney which leads up right to the same big groove finish. Start up the chimney to reach a high ledge (40m). Traverse right along this to join the normal route and climb up this to the slab-ramp. This was climbed direct to reach the upper groove (30m) and finish up this as for the normal route (50m). Poorly protected and maybe VII,6. Ben O’Connor Croft, Helen Rennard, Duncan Tunstall. 5 Dec 2010.
Crimson Buttress 130m VI,7. David Bell, Andy Nisbet. 20 Feb 2011.The crest of the buttress right of Brown Gully, on the right of the Central Couloir. Start at the top right side of the first bay on the right below where Central Couloir widens out.1. 45m Climb left up a chimney to a chockstone with a possible through route. Pass this on the left and step back right over its top.Traverse a small turf ledge right, then go up to follow a ramp leading up left to the crest of the buttress.2. 25m The steep crest is cut by a groove with bulging steps. Enter the groove from the left over the first step. Climb the second, then traverse right (crux) and go back left to pass the third. Finish up the groove to a big terrace.3. 45m On the left is a gully which is on Parallel Lines. Start up it but soon climb diagonally left to the crest of a buttress (between Brown Gully and Parallel Lines). Climb this to a terrace.4. 15m Finish over a step.
Woundwort 160m V,6. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 2 Dec 2010.A ramp system on the front face of the buttress with Crimson Buttress. Start right of Crimson Buttress at the top right side of the first bay on the right below where Central Couloir widens out. Here the ramp leads out right but is only seen from further back as the start is steep. Climb up through a bulge to the easier angled main ramp. Follow this with minor variations possible to a good ledge (40m). Head out right to the crest and go round this to reach a small bay at the end of easier ground (20m). Go up to a steep groove which leads up slightly left to the big terrace (15m). Head left to the gully which is on Parallel Lines. Follow it to a crest formed by a big pinnacle (50m). Go up to the top (35m).
MAOL CHEAN-DEARG:East Ridge 120m II. Andy Nisbet. 6 Feb 2011.As seen from Bealach na Lice, the north side of the east ridge is a steep sandstone face and at its left end is a line up the vague crest of the east ridge. Start round on the north side from the toe of the ridge and find a way up left to the crest. A left-slanting groove gains the easier upper crest which soon becomes walking and leads towards the summit.
North Face:Baldrick 100m Severe 4a. Andy Nisbet. 22 Jun 2011.A direct line up a central rib on the face, starting just right of a small but distinct bay at the cliff base. The rib has pale rock up to the halfway ledge, then darker rock initially on
the steepest section just above the ledge. It may be the rib between the two ramps but only one ramp (the right?) was obvious and this route finished up its very top. Good clean rock with positive holds but there were signs it might be slow to dry (climbed in dry conditions).
Note: A prominent waterfall on the north side of the road from Lochcarron to Kishorn was climbed in winter 1982/83 by David Whalley, Mark Sinclair & Al McLeod at Grade III. It was accidentally missed out of Northern Highlands South.
BEINN BHAN, Coire nan Fhamair:Note: Two large holes on the plateau near the top of Gully of the Gods are now a hazard in winter. The larger hole is at NG 80220 45480, 863m, 10m from the cliff edge.
Godzilla 200m IX,8 ****. Guy Robertson, Pete Benson. Jan 2011.An obvious direct version of The Godfather, with four new pitches gives a magnificent line with some serious climbing. Start beneath the obvious corner-crack more or less directly beneath the upper corner of The Godfather.1. 45m Climb into and up the corner-crack, then move right up a ledge to belay by an enormous flake.2. 25m Stand on the flake, then go right into a up shallow grooves with little protection to an uncomfortable ledge.3. 20m Go horizontally right into another bottomless groove and climb this to easier ground which leads past one short bulge to below a steep smooth corner.4. 30m Climb the corner to join The Godfather and go left to its belay.5. etc. Finish up the top two pitches of The Godfather.
APPLECROSS CRAGS, Loch na Creige Crag:Little Ellie 20m HVS 5a *. Graham Iles. Summer 2008.Start about 10m right of Little Plum. Take a line just left of the black streak in the centre of the crag climbing directly through three overlaps.
Ardheslaig, Left Half:Fire in the Glens 35m Very Difficult *. Mark Bull, Gillian Duncan. 7 May 2011.Start just left of the central fault at a small tree. Climb a slim groove, and then cracks just left of the grassy fault to a small ledge at two-thirds height. Finish up the slab above, keeping right of a prominent quartz vein.
Creag Ob Mheallaidh:(NG 837 537) West facingThis short steep gneiss outcrop is located on the rocky hillside east of the Ob Mheallaidh bay and is best seen ahead on the skyline when passing the bay on the drive east from Shieldaig. Park near the bend in the road and start up the hillside left of a small birch wood, moving up and left below smaller outcrops to the foot of the crag (10-15mins). At the far left end of the crag is a steep smooth wall; immediately right of this is a left-facing corner-groove.
Deceitful Groove 10m VS 4c *. Michael Barnard. 5 Mar 2011.The corner-groove is surprisingly sustained.
Cut It 12m VS 5a **. John MacLeod, Michael Barnard. 10 Apr 2011.Right of the corner-groove, the obvious left-right diagonal crack gives the best outing on the crag.
Dictator Ship 15m Hard Severe 4b. Michael Barnard. 5 Mar 2011.
Halfway up the wall right of the diagonal crack is a small slanting overlap. Start below and just right of this and climb directly up to a large flake. Continue up past the right end of the overlap to the top.
On the right-hand side of the crag is an obvious left-slanting slabby corner. The following route climbs the rib to its left:
Cross Winds 20m Hard Severe 4a. Michael Barnard. 5 Mar 2011.Start 6m left of the slabby corner at a miniature crack with a small pocket beside it. Climb directly up the wall to the mid-height break (cams useful). Move up through a steeper section and continue up the rib to the top.
Friendly Fire 20m Severe. Michael Barnard. 5 Mar 2011.Follow the left-slanting slabby corner to the mid-height break. Climb through an awkward step (crux) to finish up the easier top corner.
The Moorings 15m VS 4c *. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 10 Apr 2011Climb up to and follow the shallow left-trending groove overlooking the slabby corner. Step left to avoid a steeper bit before moving up and right to the top.
BEINN NA-H-EAGLAISE, East Face:Tinker’s Gully 130m II. Peter Biggar. 8 Jan 2011.A shorter gully between two sharp buttresses well to the right of Hogmanay Buttress where the summit ridge of the hill bends round into the north. Well seen from the turn off from the A896 for Fasaig and Alligin (NG 906 528). Snow and icy steps lead to a choice of finishes - both good - the turfy ramp to the right is easier.Note: This short route is actually enhanced by making a devious zigzag approach by stream beds and along attractive sandstone terraces from the Annat path. The other routes on the hill are much easier of access.Hogmanay Buttress (SMCJ 2010) was climbed by Peter Biggar & Roger Robb, not Ronnie Robb.
Forsaken Gully 120m I. Peter Biggar, Roger Robb, Pete MacDonald. 25 Mar 2011.This lies about 200m left of Tinker’s Gully; it is well defined and may be corniced. The arete on the left of the gully bed is an alternative. There is a steep line of crags below the gully with several breaks in it which would give a much harder start if iced.
Descent from any route:It is best to follow the declining summit ridge north-west, then descend west to the path up Coire Roill between Beinn Damh and Beinn na-h-Eaglaise; follow this path down to the clump of pines by the river, cross over and follow the Beinn Damh track on the left bank of the river through the woods to the road. Any other descent is either steep, rough and problematic, or much longer.
SEANA MHEALLAN:Up and 25m left from Neville the Hedgehog is a grassy area with a wall running left for some distance. Hind climbs the flake-crack opposite a large flat boulder, about 2m right of a grotty left-facing corner.
Hind 10m Very Difficult. Daniel Sutherland, Sean Watt. 12 Oct 2010.Climb direct to a break and layback the flake-crack.
Stag 26m VS 4b. Daniel Sutherland, Sean Watt. 12 Oct 2010.This lies about 15m left of Hind and takes a slab with a right-trending crack. Climb the left crack to a break, then step right onto the right-trending crack. Climb the crack until it
becomes full of grass. Strike boldly upwards left to finish on a large ledge. Step 2m left and climb twin cracks in the slab above.
DIABAIG, Upper Slabs:The Mancunian Question 40m Hard Severe 4b. Nick Dominelli-Whiteley, Jon de Leyser. 2 Jun 2011.Start on a wrinkled wall above a step in the gully approx 30m up from the top of the Main Wall. Head up a right-facing ramp to a large block before stepping left into a finger crack. Continue to the top, across a large ledge and up an easy crack to a second ledge. Climb twin finger cracks (direct is better but 4c or 5a. A pleasant and enjoyable route with some good climbing although care should be taken with the holds on the lower section. Splitting into two pitches is suggested.Note: This is thought to be different to The Gooseberry; a topo and pictures were sent.
Terrier Trauma Wall:Collie’s Corner 25m HVS 5a *. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 30 Apr 2011.The central corner gives a sustained pitch. Start directly below the corner and climb up to a steep wall. Traverse left beneath this wall before moving back up right to climb the corner.
Charlie’s Dome:Broons’ Wall 80m HVS **. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 30 Apr 2011.Right of Charlie’s Tower is a fine slab. Start at the bottom left of this slab below a thin right-trending crack which peters out after a few metres.1. 40m 4c Move up the crack before stepping right to gain a right-slanting ramp. Follow this for a few metres until able to move back up to gain the left-hand continuation crack. Climb this up to and through a short steeper section to reach easier ground leading to a good ledge.2. 40m 5b Go up to climb the small steep dome on the left (runners in the crack on the right) to gain and follow easier ground to the top.
DIABAIG, Little Pillar:Tidal South facingLooking south along the coast from Diabaig village, one can make out a couple of short steep walls just above the sea. The most visible is a small promontory with an obvious triangular red wall overlying a small stony beach. This is Red Slab and can be gained by a scramble along the shoreline from the village at low-mid tide. About halfway there one passes the foot of a narrow gully (this is down and left of Diabaig Pillar - see photodiagram p244 Northern Highlands South). The steep sidewall of this gully is a fine feature composed of good sound rock.
Proud Arete 15m Hard Severe 4a ***. Michael Barnard. 5 Mar 2011.The imposing left arete gives some brilliant positions for the grade. Start up a flake-crack to gain the blunt arete which is climbed direct to the top.
Feel Euphoria 15m E1 5b **. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 10 Apr 2011.Excellent wall climbing. Start up the second thin crack right of the arete, continuing directly to finish up the obvious short top crack.
Periwinkle 20m VS 4c **. John MacLeod, Michael Barnard. 10 Apr 2011.Juggy climbing in a great position. Start 5m right of the arete. Climb thin cracks to gain the main fault-line which splits near the top. Take the right-hand finish through a small steepening (crux).
Red Slab:Tidal North-West facing
The obvious triangular red wall on the small promontory a few minutes further along the shoreline is home to a couple of routes.
Gneiss Jugs 12m VS 4c. Michael Barnard. 9 Apr 2011.Start below the right end of a small overlap on the left side of the wall. Climb up to and follow a right-slanting crack. Where this runs out, step left and move up on small holds to mantelshelf onto a grassy ledge.
The Red Slab 12m VS 4c *. Michael Barnard. 9 Apr 2011.The central line on the wall. Reach up for and climb a shallow left-facing corner to a slanting break. Move leftwards up this to gain and follow a vertical crack to another break. Hand-traverse this to a problematic finish up around the left arete.
BEINN EIGHE, Eastern Ramparts:Feast of the East VIII,9 *** Francis Blunt, Murdoch Jamieson, Martin Moran. 19 Dec 2010.The first pitch climbs a short bold groove then moves left and back right to the Girdle Ledge (7). The cracked corner through the double roofs proves very strenuous (9). The crack-line of pitch 3 gives a superb sustained pitch (8). The winter ascent finished up a short corner on the right (5).
Pale Rider, Eastwood Variation 100m E3. Geoff Cohen, Andy Nisbet, Des Rubens. 30 Apr 2011.1. 40m 4c Follow the normal route to the Upper Girdle but belay at the point of arrival below a left-facing corner.2. 20m 5c Gain and climb the corner to the belay ledge of Paleface Wall. A fine pitch.3. 25m 5c Climb pitches 3 & 4 of Paleface Wall (run together on this occasion).4. 15m 5b Climb a right-slanting crack-line right of the finish of Paleface Wall.
Note: Simpleton was climbed free by Gordon Macnair & Andy Nisbet at E2 5c on 1 May 2011.
West Central Wall:West Central Gully Variation VII,8. Nick Bullock, Pete Benson. 2010.Climb the icy corner on the right of the normal route to reach an icicle, then follow this on thin ice to the summit snowslopes.
Far West Buttress:Mullein 40m VS 4c. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 3 Jul 2011.Right of Fuselage Gully left branch (with the wreckage) is a buttress with the VI,7 corner. This is a summer ascent of the corner, climbed to its top, then move left on to the crest to finish. Continuing up the crest would have been about Moderate.
Westlife 60m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 15 Nov 2010.Right of the buttress with the corner is a wide gully leading to overhangs. This route takes grooves on the right wall of the gully. Start on the gully face of a subsidiary buttress. Climb through a steep shallow slot to the top of the buttress. Go slightly left up cracked grooves parallel to the main gully to a ledge (35m). Continue in the same line up a roofed chimney, then go right up a blocky groove to the top (25m).
Wild West 60m V,6. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston, Garry Smith. 16 Mar 2011.Climbs more directly up the right side of the right wall of the gully. The subsidiary buttress forms a corner between it and the main wall; start up this. There is a much steeper corner just to the right. Climb the corner almost to a ledge, then step right and climb up through a bulge to a ledge. Gain a higher ledge, then move left, up and back
right to reach a terrace (35m). Climb a groove, passing under a big chockstone, then move right to gain the crest between the gully wall and the front face. Follow this, finishing on its right (25m).
Occidental 60m VS *. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 3 Jul 2011.The right end of the right wall of the gully has a big right-facing corner with a wide crack in its back and a wider crack in its right wall.1. 35m 4c Climb the corner, either past three wedged blocks or by bypassing them on the left arete. Move left to a ledge, then up and back right round on to the front face to a ledge with a huge flake forming a pinnacle at its right end. Gain the terrace from the top of the pinnacle (as for Chalice). Climbing the wall just right of the arete (as for Athame), would be more direct and better but HVS 5a.2. 25m 5a Climb the wall right of the arete above, then another wall and easier walls to the top.
Athame 30m E1 5a **. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Apr 2011.Heading right from Occidental, the first feature on the front face of the buttress is a smooth wall with distinctive wine glass shaped twin cracks. This climbs the left crack after soloing up to reach it. Sustained jamming, well protected with Friends 2.5 to 4 and hexes of similar size. Climb two walls above the crack to reach the terrace. Finish up Occidental or abseil down to climb Chalice.
Chalice 70m V,6 *. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 15 Nov 2010.The right of the distinctive wine glass shaped twin cracks. Start at the cliff base left of these. Climb a ramp with a bulging start rightwards to a pinnacle below the right crack (10m). Stand on the pinnacle to gain access to the crack. Climb the crack, steep but very helpful, to a ledge with a bigger pinnacle. From the top of this, climb a wall to the terrace (25m). There are a variety of finishes but an independent one was taken. Walk left on to the gully wall, passing under the chockstone of Wild West, to a long groove (10m). Climb this groove (25m).Summer: Severe 4a. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Apr 2011.Start up the arete right of the bulging start but soon move into it. Follow the crack as for winter to the terrace. A corner left of the winter groove was climbed to the top.
Chock-a-Block 60m V,6 *. James Edwards, Andy Nisbet, Colin Wells. 14 Nov 2010.This climbs a wide crack in the right wall of a corner which is formed right of the wine glass shaped twin cracks. Start on the front face below the corner. Climb steps to the same pinnacle as on Chalice. Step right from the pinnacle to a ledge below the corner. Pull up into the wide crack, which is very steep but full of chockstones. It widens into a squeeze chimney, from which the top of a big pinnacle can be gained. Climb up left to a ledge (35m). Finish up the steep fault above, including a through route (25m).Summer: Severe 4a. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 3 Jul 2011.Start right of the winter route and climb a crack in the front face direct to the big pinnacle. Continue as for winter except a wall right of the through route was climbed.
No Fly Zone 70m V,6 *. Andy Nisbet, Chris Pasteur, Duncan Tunstall. 28 Feb 2011.Right of the corner of Chock-a-Block is another wall with a big left-facing corner forming its right end and a smaller left-facing corner facing it. The original route Far West Buttress starts up the big corner and moves left into the smaller corner. This route climbs the smaller corner throughout but then takes a wide fault right of Far West Buttress. Climb the corner, sustained but with continuous cracks and joined by Far West Buttress halfway up, to a ledge (30m). Traverse easily right along the ledge (10m). Climb a short wall into a wide fault. Exit the fault by two short awkward chimneys on its left side to reach blocks at the top (30m).
Far West Direct 70m HVS 5b *. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 3 Jul 2011.Start up a crack just left of the original Far West Buttress to join it. From where the original route traverses left, climb on up over overhanging blocks to a roof. Move left under the roof and make a difficult move up into a crack (3.5 Friend). Go up the crack to the halfway ledge. Walk 10m right to finish as for No Fly Zone (but slightly more direct).
Raptor 70m VI,7 **. Steve Ashworth, Brian Davison, Andy Nisbet. 12 Mar 2011.Just right of the right arete of the initial left-facing corner of Far West Buttress is a big groove which leads to very steep ground. Climb the groove through a difficult bulge with a prominent chockstone and continue up the groove to a roof. Pull left round the roof to a ledge below another roof. Move left from the ledge to the top of a groove and climb out the top of this to the halfway ledge (40m). The fault of No Fly Zone would be the obvious finish, but this ascent climbed up a wall into a roofed groove just left of the rib which forms the left side of the fault. Move up the groove, then make a long step right on to the rib and climb it to a ledge which leads right to join the finish of No Fly Zone (30m).Summer: VS 5a *. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Apr 2011.1. 40m 4c As for winter.2. 30m 5a A more direct line than in winter. Climb the wall right of the winter line to reach a steep wall forming the base of the rib. Climb this by a steep finger crack just right of the crest and continue directly up walls.
Crackhead 70m V,6 **. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 25 Nov 2010.Start up the same groove as Raptor. Climb the groove through the difficult bulge with the chockstone but take its right fork to the steep ground. Traverse right round a corner on to a flake-ledge which leads to a ledge below a vertical leaning corner (30m). Climb the corner, hard but very safe, and subsequent corners and flakes trending slightly right to below a roofed corner (30m). This corner is right of a steep wide crack with a distinctive jutting block. Finish up the roofed corner (10m).Summer: VS 4c *. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Apr 2011.A line independent to Raptor was climbed. Start right of the winter route and climb a wall and crack direct to the ledge below the vertical leaning corner. Climb the corner (crux) and continue as for winter.
Flake City 60m Hard Severe 4b *. Andy Nisbet. 5 Sep 2010.Short but surprisingly good rock. Start up a big left-facing corner in a steep clean area of rock near the right end of the buttress. Climb the corner to a large wedged flake. Swing out to the arete and move right round a flake. Go up and left to walk behind a huge flake, then climb short walls to a steep wide crack with a distinctive jutting block. The belay here is as for Crackhead and the route then crosses it. Climb up to a bulge at the base of the crack, then swing out left and climb a vertical wall on excellent holds to the top.Winter: V,7. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 8 Feb 2011.By the summer route except that the steep wide crack with the distinctive jutting block was gained by stepping in from the right via a small ledge on the arete to grab the block. The wide crack was then climbed to the top.
Avro 60m VS 4c. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Apr 2011.Right of the big corner of Flake City is a huge chimney-flake. Climb the slabby wall left of this to reach a right-slanting crack which leads to a steep wall. Climb this by a flake-crack to reach the terrace. Above the terrace, climb steps to finish up a groove right of the finish of Crackhead.
Pineapple Cliff:Pina Colada VS *. Dave McGimpsey, Andy Nisbet, Sue Wood. 24 Jul 2011.By the winter line in two pitches (4c 4b).
CAIRNGORMS
COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA, Mess of Pottage:Beeline 90m HVS/E1 *. Allen Fyffe, John Lyall. 3 Sep 2010.The edge right of theHoneypot chimney.1. 25m 4a Follow the right-slanting crack right of Honeypot (Wachacha winter variation).2. 25m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the right of the gully and belay to the right of the upper chimney.3. 40m 5b Take the wide crack on the right, then traverse steeply left to gain the edge and follow this to the top.
The Firefighter 80m VS *. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 12 Oct 2010.Start up a wide crack just right of the winter direct, then move left into the winter route and climb to the ledge above the tapering slot. Move up left to another ledge (35m 4c). Climb the wide crack above and continue up clean short walls to the top (45m 4a).Note: Warm summer weather. AN climbed Savage Slit in full winter nick 8 days later.
Fintastic 50m VS. Allen Fyffe, John Lyall. 3 Sep 2010.Start as for Sharks Fin Soup.1. 30m 4c Slant up left to gain the sharp edge left of the fin. Climb this and the wall on the left. Continue up a crack, then through a bulge to a belay on the left edge.2. 20m 4b Climb the slab by a right-slanting crack to easy ground.
Black Sheep III. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 19 Jan 2010.Followed the summer line on the lower tier.
Aladdin’s Buttress:Note: Andy Nisbet climbed the groove left of Tom Thumb at 50m Grade III (17 Jan 2011) but is unlikely to be the first.
Fluted Buttress:Facet Hunters 140m IV,6. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet. 30 Dec 2010.The rib right of Spiral Gully. Start where Wavelength leaves Spiral Gully.1. 50m Climb straight up on icy slabs to a block in a big snow corner.2. 25m Climb the corner until 10m below its top (and where it meets Spiral Gully). Head out right across the sidewall on ledges to a ramp above and follow this until just below the crest above Spiral Gully.3. 20m Climb the wall above rightwards to stand on a pinnacle. Make an awkward move over a bulge on the left to reach a groove which leads up right (also joining Lambda).4. 45m Gain and follow the crest to the top.
Rosslyn Chapel 50m V,7. Alex Kelly, Andy Nisbet. 25 Oct 2010.Between the grooves of the V,7 and IV,6 finishes to Spiral Gully is a shallow groove leading into a crack above a small roof. Climb this to a ledge (10m, crux). Climb a roofed corner which leads into a big finishing gully (40m).
Fiacaill Buttress:Trampled Underfoot, True Finish 30m IV,6. Rupert Rosedale, Mark Walker. Winter 2008.Above the short corner take the roof-capped chimney directly above, and finish directly.
Cap in Hand, Freedom Finish 45m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 23 Nov 2010.Belay beneath the roof-capped chimney. Move left and pull out right to ledges, climb past a flake and up a short corner, then easily to the top.
Omerta 60m VIII,9. Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran. 13 Nov 2010.Start at the bottom of Belhaven at a short wall. Go about 10m further up Fiacaill Couloir to the left end of a ledge. Climb up to this and traverse back right to the foot of a tapering pillar.1. 10m Climb a right-slanting crack with a small roofed niche at its bottom left and pull onto a ledge below a steep wall.2. 25m Step left onto a block, then pull right onto the wall and climb a right-slanting crack. Very strenuous and difficult to protect due to crack being turf filled (one rest). At the top of the wall, mantel into a small niche and pull over. Climb up a ramp to below the upper wall.3. 25m Go further up the ramp over a block to below a steep crack. Climb the crack (well protected) to the right end of a horizontal break. Move left along the break to turf. Pull over on turf and go up a groove to the top.
COIRE AN LOCHAIN:The Gathering 60m IX,9 **. Guy Robertson, Pete Macpherson. Feb 2011.A counter-diagonal to Pic n’ Mix. The first pitch is brilliant, but the second disappointing as it avoids the challenge of the final tower direct. Start up The Head-hunter but at a huge flake-crack step left into the obvious groove in the arete. Climb this, then steeply up right across a leaning wall then into the obvious capped groove. Follow this over the overhang and up to the first belay on Never Mind (30m). Go left and climb the wide crack (as for Never Mind) then pull delicately out left onto a smooth wall. Climb diagonally leftwards up across this into the final chimney of Grumbling Groove and follow this to the top (30m).
No. 4 Buttress:Sarcophagus 60m III * Michael Barnard. 23 Jan 2011.To the left of Oesophagus is a steep arete; immediately left again and overlying the lower section of Right Branch Y Gully is a snowy corner-groove with a steep wall at its base and leading up to finish between two towers. Start up another groove up and left of the initial wall and climb this to the base of another steep wall. Traverse right below this wall, crossing a snow arete, to gain the left-hand groove. Climb this to easier ground before taking the final open groove above to a steep finish.
Tracheotomy 80m VS 4b. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 4 Jul 2011.Start up a groove on the right side of the rib between Oesophagus and Tracheotomy winter. Climb this until it get mucky, then move left and climb the rib to its top. Climb the crest of a sharp rib on the right, then traverse right on to the winter route. Follow this to below the final tower (50m). Climb this and the upper crest as for winter (30m).
CREAGAN COIRE A’ CHA-NO:This attractive little granite cliff lies tucked under the east flank of the Sron a’ Cha-no spur on Cairngorm. The crag faces east and overlooks Strath Nethy. It lies less than 2km away from the Coire na Ciste car park and the approach to the descent (Recovery Gully NJ 017 063) takes just over an hour. The descent is even quicker at about 45min.The crag is up to 70m high and sports 15 routes, ranging from Grade II to VII. Most of the major features have been climbed, but there is potential for many shorter lines. With a cliff base of 950m, the routes come into condition early. Later in the season the cliff catches the sun, and some routes may bank out and have cornice difficulties.
The Cairngorm pioneers investigated the climbing potential of the crag way back in the 1950s (it is mentioned in Mac Smith’s 1960 Cairngorms guidebook) but it was felt to be too short for worthwhile winter climbing. Times change and winter routes no longer need to be longer than 150m to be acceptable! Cha-no provides a welcome alternative to the Northern Corries, with the benefit of turfy cracks, a beautiful view and a secluded feel away from the hustle and bustle of the ski area.
Cutty Sark 35m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Jan 2011.A line on the left buttress, some 60m left of the one with Anvil Corner. On its south side is a triangular feature with a steep chimney-crack forming its left side and a corner forming its right. Climb the corner to the top of the triangle and a continuation fault to the top.
Quiet Corner 40m V,7. John Lyall, Scott Frazer, Mick Twomey. 7 Feb 2011.A left leaning corner tucked in on the left side of Chimney Rib.
Chimney Rib 60m IV,4. Roger Webb, Simon Richardson. 21 Nov 2010.The prominent pinnacled rib guarding the left flank of Recovery Gully is cut by a deep chimney on its front face.1. 35m Climb the chimney over a chokestone, pass through ‘the jaws’ in the chasm above and climb to the top of the pinnacle.2. 25m Descend the pinnacle and climb easy mixed ground to the right of Recovery Gully to the plateau.
Recovery Gully 50m IThe broad gully provides the easiest ascent and descent to the crag. The cornice should normally be passable at the top of the buttress to the right.
Flaked Out 50m VI,7. Simon Richardson, Sandy Simpson. 14 Nov 2010.The attractive stepped flake on the front buttress of the buttress immediately right of Recovery Gully. Start by scrambling up 20m of easy ground to the foot of the flake.1. 30m Climb the two-stepped flake to reach a ledge beneath a bulging offwidth corner. Climb this (crux, one fall on first ascent) to a platform.2. 20m Finish up the wide crack in the centre of the bulging headwall.
Anvil Corner 60m VI,6. Sandy Simpson, Simon Richardson. 14 Nov 2010.The classic of the crag, taking the prominent clean-cut corner on the left wall of the sharp arete of Anvil Buttress (defined by a prominent anvil-shaped block at its top).1. 40m Climb a series of three steep steps to enter the corner and follow this to a deep notch in the ridge. An excellent pitch.2. 20m Continue up the crest of the buttress to the top.
Anvil Gully 45m IV,4. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Jan 2011.A wide fault left of Anvil Corner has an easier left side and a longer steeper right side. Start just left of Anvil Corner and climb to a V-groove. Go up this to the narrower upper fault. This has a steep finish; move out on to its left wall and climb this to the top.
Duke’s Rib 60m II. Roger Webb, Simon Richardson. 21 Nov 2010.The shallow angled rib between Anvil Corner and Jenga Buttress. Easy climbing up the lower rib leads to a window and a steep left facing corner on the final tower to finish. Moderate in summer.
Jenga Buttress 70m III,4. Sandy Simpson, Simon Richardson. 14 Nov 2010.The longest feature on the cliff.
1. 40m Start left of the steep lower wall and climb a gully to gain the rib. Continue up this over a steep step to a good platform.2. 30m Continue up the buttress crest, over a series of steep technical sections to gain the plateau. Excellent well protected climbing.
Daylight Robbery 60m V,6. James Edwards, Simon Richardson, Roger Webb. 8 Jan 2011.Good climbing up the initial wall and right flank of Jenga Buttress.1. 30m Start 10m right of the initial gully of Jenga Buttress and climb a steep right-facing turfy corner to reach a broad ledge.2. 30m Continue up the steep bulging right-facing corner above the left end of the ledge and make a steep exit onto Jenga Buttress. Finish up this.
Smooth as Silk 70m VII,7. Simon Richardson, Iain Small. 12 Dec 2010.The vertical wall left between Jenga Buttress and Arch Wall is cut by a hanging offwidth crack at half-height.1. 35m Start 5m right of Daylight Robbery and climb the prominent right-facing turfy groove to gain the broad ledge of Daylight Robbery. Move right along this to belay directly below the offwidth.2. 35m Climb a left-facing groove then a step crack to below a roof. Move right through this to enter the bulging offwidth. Climb this to its top where progress is barred by another roof. Step onto the steep wall on the left and move up to some welcome turf. Continue up the groove above, and where it trends right to join the upper groove of Arch Wall, step left to gain the continuation groove and follow this to the top.
Arch Wall 50m VII,7. Roger Webb, Simon Richardson. 21 Nov 2010.A serious route through the prominent arched roof to the right of Jenga Buttress.1. 20m Climb a series of turfy grooves passing by a chokestone and V-groove low down, to reach a good platform on the left.2. 30m The arched roof looms above. Climb up then left then make a series of steep moves leading up to a flake on the left side of the roof lip (bold). Pull into the groove above, and follow it to the top.
Arch Enemy 45m V,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 18 Jan 2011.A right diagonal line starting below Arch Wall. Start at a big spike. Climb to a narrow chimney and over its chokestone. Continue up the line over two steep steps to steep snow which leads in the same line to a short snow arete and a potential cornice.
Fingers and Thumbs 50m IV,5. Simon Richardson, Iain Small. 12 Dec 2010.The prominent right-slanting gully bounding the right side of Arch Wall.1. 30m Climb the easy lower gully and belay below the steep headwall by a pinnacle on the right.2. 20m Climb up the right side of the headwall, step left at its top, and finish up the continuation groove above.
Tower Chimney 50m V,5. Simon Richardson, Iain Small. 12 Dec 2010.1. 40m Start directly below the steep bulging tower to the right of Arch Wall. Climb a right-trending ramp and pull into a niche. Move up to a vertical vegetated groove, step left onto its left wall and make a steep exit onto a turf ledge. Move up to the hidden squeeze chimney on the right and follow this to the right side of the tower.2. 10m Finish easily on the right side of the tower.
COIRE AN SPREIDHE:Central Couloir 300m II. Simon Richardson, Roger Webb. 16 Jan 2011.
The slabby cliffs of Coire an Spreidhe are cut by a vegetated fault starting at NJ 017 047. Climb the fault, passing a steep step after 50m to emerge on the upper snowfields. Break through the mixed ground above to a corniced exit. A worthwhile mountaineering excursion climbed under conditions of heavy snow; the route will have more interest in leaner conditions.
CARN ETCHACHAN:The Sword Independent Finish 60m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 13 Dec 2010.The Sword climbs the ramp of Red Guard (summer), then leaves it to finish as for Red Guard (winter). Instead, continue up the ramp to its top and take the summer line of Red Guard out right. Perhaps easier than the original finish.
SHELTERSTONE CRAG:Stone Temple Pilots 250m IX,9 ****. Pete Macpherson, Guy Robertson. 28 Jan 2011. Top end of the grade; one fall taken on the crux.1. to 3. 100m As for The Steeple. Belay below the crux fault of Steeple/Haystack.4. 25m Climb the very steep and pumpy fault of Haystack (crux), passing an in-situ peg over the bulge. Belay up and left at a small ledge (cramped)5. 12m Follow the ramp as for Haystack for about 9m to a left-slanting fault/groove. Climb this to a good ledge. Belay at left end of ledge below a steep tapering corner-crack.6. 45m Climb the crack steeply until it is possible to step left onto a foot hold on the arete. Move left (bold and delicate), stepping across to below a steep wide crack. Arrange gear and pull through steeply onto turf and follow a turfy left-facing corner (common with Citadel) until it is possible to move up and right to the belay below the overhanging crack/groove of Haystack.7. A pitch of Spire. Move up and right following the steep right-trending weakness. Belay below top pitch of Steeple. A sensational, pumpy and outrageously exposed pitch.8. Climb the final pitch of The Steeple.
HELL’S LUM CRAG:Anonymouse 100m HVS 5a. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 11 October 2010.Based on the rib between Deep Cut Chimney and Nobody’s Fault. Start at the base of the Deep Cut chimney itself.1. 40m 5a Climb the chimney for about 8m before moving right on to the rib. Climb the rib but with most of the runners at either edge to a ledge just below and 5m left of the main chimney of Nobody’s Fault.2. 40m 4c Move right into and climb the chimney of Nobody’s Fault. Near its top, step back left on to the rib and climb it to a steep band. Go up left on a ramp which leads to a ledge overlooking Deep Cut Chimney.3. 20m 4b Climb a steep crack, then two more short walls to the top.
The following route is on a crag down to the left of the Lower Slab of Hell’s Lum (NH 995 015), and just left of the Feith Bhuidhe (the next tier above Waterfall Wall).
Purgatory Wall 55m Severe 4a. Harry Holmes, Alastair Clarke. 12 Sep 2010.1. 25m Start at the right of the crag. Follow a left-slanting vegetated fault up to a ledge. Exit the ledge on its right side and follow groove to a foot ledge. Belay at the left side of the ledge.2. 30m Return right along the foot ledge. Start up the centre of the slab and trend leftwards at the top. Easier ground leads to the top.Variation Start: Hard Severe 5a.Start at the right of the crag left of a pink streak (drainage line). Bridge across the drainage line until the left-slanting fault and the normal start can be gained.
STAG ROCKS:Truly Accidental 130m III,4. Martin Holland, Ali Cashman. 17 Feb 2011.Starts from the initial snow bay of The Accidental Tourist, but climbs directly up the buttress rather than up and left, with a good first pitch.1. 30m From the snow bay, two grooves head straight up separated by a thin rib. Climb the left-hand and wider groove, steeper than it looks, and finish up a shallow right-trending and narrowing chimney to reach the rib on the right (10m left and down from the chimney of Truly, Madly, Chimbley).2. 50m Move up and left to an inverted V-notch. Climb through this and go up slabs and overlaps direct to a small prow.3. 50m Easy snowslopes lead to the top.
Thumper 80m III. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Simon Yearsley. 10 Nov 2010.The ridge between The Cardinal and Diagonal Gully gives a minor but pleasant climb, less affected by sun than other routes . Start at the same place as The Cardinal. Climb up to a wall, move right and up a corner, step right again and go up a rough corner line until moves left lead to the crest above its steep lower section. Follow the crest to a large block (50m). Continue to a turfy groove which leads up the crest to a slight pinnacle. After this the going gets much easier (30m) and turns to walking.
CHALAMAIN GAP:Note: Two routes were climbed by Gwilym & Caroline Lynn on 19 Dec 2009. Routes have been climbed here in the past but not recorded, and the crag thought too minor to start now.
SGOR GAOITH, A’ Phocaid:Spymaster 150m III **. David & John Lyall. 10 Mar 2010.Starts up the next corner on the right wall of Deep Pockets, above the start of Mixed Spice. Climb the short corner and ramp to gain an ice filled gully, which is followed direct over a vertical step to the top. Ice screws were required for runners and a belay at the end of the first pitch.
Note: Tom Evans, Paul Wells, Alastair Cochran & Vincent Jack, in Feb 2011, climbed the second gully from the right on the right side of the corrie (topo provided). Grade II on the day but it banks out.
COIRE GARBHLACH, Lower Corrie:Spice Boys 150m III. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet. 16 Dec 2010.A ridge left of Garlic Gully. Start left of the rocky crest left of Garlic Gully. After a steep start, climb easier heathery shelves to a steep band. Go left up a ramp to the crest. Climb a flakey pinnacle and a sharp crest to another short wall. Above this is another crest leading to a steeper band. Climb this by a shallow groove (crux). A final buttress leads to easy ground.Note: The shallow gully left of this ridge is Grade I and has been climbed several times. There is an optional ice pitch, which can be up to 15m and Grade II/III, but can also bank out. It can be bypassed on the left.
Gael Force Ridge 100m IV,6. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 10 Jan 2011.By the summer route. Approach by the start of Garlic Gully and start left of the toe of the buttress.
Upper Corrie:Bertie’s Gully 140m I *. Martin Middleton, John Swinden. 12 Dec 2010.
The fine central gully on the buttress on the north side of the Upper Corrie (NN 8855 9445).
CAIRN TOUL, Coire of the Chokestone Gully:Foxy Woxy 130m IV,5. Simon Richardson, Helen Rennard. 27 Mar 2011.A mixed line up the right flank of The Flying Fox buttress.1. 35m Start in the mouth of Chokestone Gully about 20m up and right of the toe of the buttress. Climb a gully leading into a left-trending groove. Climb this over several bulges until underneath a smooth groove. Step left and climb a bulge to a small ledge. (This last section is common with The Flying Fox).2. 25m Traverse 3m right to a large ledge, then step right into a square-cut gully. Climb the left side of the gully to easy ground.3. and 4. 70m Climb the crest of the buttress joining The Shroud. The large cornice was surmounted via a steep break about 20m to the left
COIRE SPUTAN DEARG, Flake Buttress Area:Penguin 85m V,7. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 29 Jan 2011.A winter ascent based on the summer route. Start below the summer start. Climb out left on to the buttress on turf, then go right up a turfy corner to the ledge below the flake-crack (15m). Climb the flake-crack as for summer, with a technical start (25m). Finish up varied ground right of Flake Buttress (45m).
CREAGAN A’ CHOIRE ETCHACHAN:Gaddzooks! 140m VI,6. Helen Rennard, John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 21 Jan 2011.An ascent of the original summer line of Avalanche Gully taken by Mr. and Mrs. Gadd in 1955, as judged by two steel pitons in situ. It follows a groove system left of the main gully line. Start up the ice of Avalanche Gully until 5m below its overhang. Climb a crack leading up the left wall to a ledge on the left (30m). Climb the turfy groove above until the steel pegs are seen on the right. Move up and step right above the pegs (or climb past them) to gain a big slab-ramp. Step right, then down to move into its corner. Climb this (initially serious) to an easier section and a final bulge to easier ground (40m). Continue up the easier groove to the crest of Pioneer Buttress. Follow a groove on the right to a step (40m). Go over the step and finish on snow (30m).
Kukri 120m V,6. Andy Nisbet, Helen Rennard. 19 Jan 2011.Based on the grassy fault which bounds the arete of Delicatessen on the right.1. 40m Climb the “steep terrace” which is the common descent for summer routes until level with an inset slab which is formed right of the arete of Delicatessen.2. 30m Climb a wide crack in a lower slab, or gain it from the right, to reach the inset slab. Climb turfy blocks up left to the corner which bounds the inset slab on the left. Enigma probably continues up the corner. Instead, traverse right with a thin move to gain a crack near the right side of the slab. Climb the crack to the top of the slab3. 30m Move right into the main fault and climb this steeply to a capping rock. Pass this on the left.4. 20m Finish up steep snow (20m).
Machete 100m V,5. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 3 Mar 2011.A companion route to Kukri, climbing the lower section of the grassy fault but finishing on the right. Thawing, maybe IV,5 in better conditions. A complete ascent of the fault would be logical but the lower section is slow to ice up. Start right of the “steep terrace”.1. 30m Climb to the base of the fault on snow and turf.2. 30m Continue to an obvious steep barrier. Go up right below this until possible to step left on to it. Climb a shallow groove on turf and ice to the easing where Kukri joins the fault.
3. 30m Leave the fault and follow a cracked ramp up right, then return left to easy ground.4. 10m Finish easily.
LOCH ETCHACHAN CRAGThis area of cliff on the south side of the loch has a number of ice lines as well as one rock route. The winter routes are good if rather short-lived though an easy descent on either side of the cliff allows a few to be climbed in a day. A little ice is helpful on the mixed lines. The climbs have easier upper sections - route lengths are given to where the ground starts to level off. In the centre and forming the lowest point of the cliff is the main buttress, a large and imposing area of rock home to the summer route Bacchus. Immediately left of this is an easy gully, Central Couloir; left again is a smaller more broken buttress.
Wintertime Winds 60m II. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.A right-slanting ramp-line in the left-hand buttress. Climb a short step and move up the ramp to another step solved by a short awkward chimney (crux). Continue up the ramp and climb an icy groove to easier ground.
Etched in Blue 50m III *. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.The obvious corner of water ice immediately right of the left-hand buttress.
Central Couloir 70m I. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.The gully immediately left of the main buttress has a couple of icy bits low down but soon becomes straightforward. Move back left and up through the upper rocks.
Four Seasons in a Day 100m III. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.An icy line of weakness runs down the left-hand side of the front face of the main buttress, terminating in a steep wall. This route gains the foot of this line of weakness by a traverse in from the left. Start just below the obvious traverse ledge.1. 50m Climb up and right to reach the ledge and move along this easily to where it peters out. Step down and right to gain the line of ice which is followed up to below the upper corners.2. 50m Climb the upper corners to easier ground, finishing as for Central Couloir.
Up and right from the main buttress are a series of fine vertical icy grooves. A cornice can sometimes form above this section but this is easily out flanked.
The Choker 50m III,5. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.The chimney on the left has a large chockstone within it. Climb up to the chockstone, pass this on the outside with difficulty (inside may also be possible) and continue up the icy groove above to easier ground.
Ice Man 50m II. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.The next icy groove right.
Make like Shepherds 50m II *. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.Slightly steeper and more sustained than its neighbour.
Get the Flock Outta Here 50m IV,4. Michael Barnard. 26 Feb 2011.The right-hand line has a short steep section at half-height.
BEINN MHEADHOIN:Demerara 10m E6 6c *. Julian Lines. 24 Apr 2010.
This technical route climbs the topless crack to the right of Classic Crack on the summit tor of Beinn Mheadhoin. Climb the flake-crack for 5m to a horizontal break, then climb the bulging wall on flakes and a pocket via gritstone style moves. Low in the grade; the first ascent was pre-practiced before a solo above some snow, but graded for a lead as there is protection. At 1182m it is perhaps the highest extreme in the country?
BEINN A' BHUIRD, Coire an Dubh Lochain:Crystal 200m VI,7. Roger Webb, Simon Richardson. 28 Feb 2011.A direct line up the right side of Glaucous Buttress based on the groove system right of Tearaway. Named in memory of Chris Dale.1. and 2. 70m Climb easily up the lower slabs on banked up snow and ice to reach the foot of the groove.3. 50m Climb the right-facing corner over a couple of steep steps to reach the terrace below the headwall. Belay to the right of the depression taken by Tearaway.4. 30m Move right and climb the right side of the headwall by a series of short corners and grooves to reach an easing.5. 20m Continue in the same line up a shallow left-facing groove to the cornice.
Garbh Choire:Genghis Can 200m IV,4. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 5 March 2011.A line up the left side of Mandarin Buttress, crossing Salamander which finishes up the shallow gully between the two halves. Climbed entirely on ice and snow. Start low in The Flume, before it narrows, and where an icy ramp leads out right on to the lower buttress. Follow the ramp and a groove above, leading to the mid-height snowslope where Salamander crosses. Head leftwards towards a large inset slab area which lies high up and left of the steepest ground. Gain the slab via an icy crack-line and climb it to the cornice. This was climbed some 10m right of the finish to The Flume but if bigger, then The Flume finish could be reached.
LOCHNAGAR, Southern Sector, Perseverance Wall:Ideal 70m III,4. Craig Lamb, Stephen Gaunt. 25 Oct 2010.Start in a small groove just left of Perseverance Groove. Climb the groove up to a steep step (crux); pull through to good turf. Continue to easier ground heading to the crest of the rib on the right. Climb through the shallow groove above towards Perseverance Rib but stay left pulling through a second steep step which again leads to good turf and easier ground. Stay to the left of the rib and continue to the plateau, finishing through a low angled chimney.
Shadow Buttress A:Chasing Shadows 170m VI,7. Simon Richardson, Helen Rennard. 2 Mar 2011.The icy groove system between the Feathered Arete and Multiple Chimneys. Start 20m left of Polyphemus Gully.1. 50m Climb a diagonal crack/ramp rightwards to reach a bulging roof. Pass this in its right side to enter a short hanging groove. Climb this and exit past a chokestone on the right onto an icy ramp. Follow this more easily up and right to a belay about 5m below the first stance of Polyphemus Gully.2. 50m Follow the square-cut fault on the left for 20m. Where it ends, bear right and climb the left-facing corner formed by the lower section of the tower cut by Multiple Chimneys.3. 50m Continue up the groove above (between the Feathered Arete and Multiple Chimneys) and follow it up and right.4. 20m Exit the top of the groove and climb the short snowslope above to a steep cornice exit.
Eagle Buttress:
Eagle-Eye 280m VII,6. Sandy Simpson, Simon Richardson. 6 Feb 2011.The corners on the left side of the Where Eagles Dare headwall.1. to 3. 150m Climb Eagle Buttress to the central depression (as for Where Eagles Dare).4. 40m Climb the grooved rib trending left until above the prominent corner taken by Eagle Groove. Step up and right over a steep wall to belay below a steep right-facing corner.5. 30m Climb the corner (strenuous) to gain a terrace. Continue up a slabby wall until level with the base of the Where Eagles Dare headwall.6. 60m Continue up the steep wall directly above, gain a depression and then an exposed ramp leading up and right to the top.
Smear Fear 280m VII,7 or VI,6. Simon Richardson, Iain Small. 6 Mar 2011.An icy mixed line based on the hanging icy groove bounding the right side of the Where Eagles Dare headwall. The grade depends on the thickness of the ice on pitch 6.1. to 3. 150m Climb Eagle Buttress to the central depression (as for Where Eagles Dare).4. to 5. 80m Continue up and right following the upper ramp-line above Eagle Buttress, to gain the foot of the smear via a series of icy steps and steep cracks.6. 20m Climb the smear. Bold and steep, or just steep, depending in the thickness of the ice.7. 30m Continue up the gully to the right of the headwall to the top.
Tough-Brown Face:Crazy Sorrow IX,10 **. Guy Robertson, Pete Benson. Jan 2011.Superb climbing with the crux pitch on the second pitch as in summer. Strenuous and well-protected over the roof, then sustained and bold up the crack-line above. Ice may help (as on the first ascent) but will reduce the protection opportunities. A total of six pieces of in-situ gear were found above the roof, half of which were removed, the remainder having been hammered in irretrievably. None of it appears trustworthy. For pitches 1 and 2 follow the summer route, but belay on the ledge at the end of the crack system. For pitch 3 go right to the end of the ledge, then join the horizontal traverse on Rolling Thunder (very thin, but more ice will help). For pitch 4 etc. take the escape rake out right.
The Stack:Heliopolis and Ultramontane have been repeated by Pete Benson & Neil Morrison, then Daniel Laing & Wilson Moir. Heliopolis is easy for the grade and is probably E2 with some rather flaky rock so worth 1 star rather than the original 2. Ultramontane is worth its E4 6a grade and 2 stars, but the ominous sounding mantel is straightforward and not really a mantel.Both routes start at the junction of the Left Branch and Crumbling Cranny. For access, 50m ropes easily reach the bottom but it is straightforward to walk to the base by ascending or descending the Left Branch.
West Buttress:Apophis 35m E7 6b. Alastair Robertson, Will Harris. 31 Aug 2010.The Radar Wall is the smooth square east facing wall just below the plateau between Black Spout Right Branch and West Gully. The route takes a line up the slabby face near the left arete of the wall, and though not technically desperate the crux is unprotected and very insecure. It is best accessed by a 40m abseil from the plateau to belay on steep grass below the wall. Climb broken ground to below a good square ledge near the centre of the wall. Mantel the ledge and follow an obvious ramp system delicately up and leftwards (bold) to gain the arete, and a ledge just round the other side (the only gear on the route here, sling on the hollow flake out left, and a small wire just above - too low for the
crux). Step immediately back right onto the face and make a hard move up the vague scoop, continuing upwards to a rest at a pinch above. Step right and climb the thin seams above, trending rightwards (harrowing), to finally gain a good hold just to the right of the projecting roof above. Finish direct more easily, passing the roof on the right, to gain the plateau.
CREAG AN DUBH LOCH, Broad Terrace Wall:Culloden IX,9. Gordon Lennox, Tony Stone, Iain Small. 22 Dec 2010.By the summer route. Pitch 2 was the technical crux. Pitch 3 was bold and delicate.
Central Gully Wall:Vertigo Wall, Left-Hand Finish 90m VII,8. Andrew Melvin, Robbie Miller, Henning Wackerhage. 12 Mar 2011.Climb the first three pitches of Vertigo Wall and belay above the ice.4. 30m Climb thin ice up and left. Traverse left on a narrow ledge below a gently overhanging wall and move into a shallow corner. Climb up steeply on good turf to a belay.5. 30m Follow turfy ramps left and upwards and then some ice to below a left-leaning offwidth crack. 6. 30m Climb the offwidth crack until you can sit on it. Lean out left, then swing left. Pull up and climb to a spike. Step up from the spike and boldly climb the steep slab above on thinner and thinner hooks to the top.
Note: Black Diamond (SMCJ 2010) was repeated by Pete Benson, Ali Coull & Neil Morrison. The concensus was E4 4c, 6a, 5c, 5b **, with two good and surprisingly independent pitches. Pitch one is essentially an approach pitch as per King Rat or Mousetrap/Kraken, then two good pitches, then you fight to stay off King Rat. For more sustained climbing, a scoot across onto the upper section of Waterkelpie Wall would be good or two abseils reaches the ground from the top of pitch 3.
False Gully Wall:Ludwig 60m E3 *. Julian Lines, Danny Laing (snr). 22 Apr 2011.A pleasant climb that climbs the thinner curving groove to the left of Masque and the wall above.1. 20m 5b Climb the curving bow shaped groove to a ledge on the right (common with Masque).2. 20m 6a Climb Masque for 3m before making a thin traverse left onto a slab. Continue up into a corner system and belay on a sloping ledge (a purer way to climb this pitch is by stepping left from the belay to pull through an overlap into the line – 6b? but with a direct fall onto the belay).3. 20m 4a Step right and follow the obvious line to finish.
EAGLES ROCK, Mid-East Buttress:Note: John Lyall notes that Whisper (winter) takes the groove right of Gibber whereas the summer Whisper takes the next groove right.
Plateau Buttress:Fairytale 200m III,4. Andy Nisbet. 5 Jan 2011.An icefall which starts immediately right of A Likely Story Slab and continues up left of Plateau Buttress. There were four icy sections separated by snow. The third was steep and climbed direct by the steepest route.
Vanguard 60m III. Andy Nisbet. 5 Jan 2011.A line entirely on ice through the steep rock taken by Vanguard, although certainly not the same line. Start at the top right corner of the bay with The Drool. Take a line leading
out right immediately under the steep wall. Traverse right into an iced ramp followed to a ledge. Move left to ice and climb this to the top. A groove straight up is also possible but less dramatic.
Flanker’s Route 140m IV,5. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 2 Jan 2011.The line might fit with the summer route although climbed in very icy conditions and much of the route was on ice. Start at the left end of the lowest rocks. Climb a ramp right of the snow gully leading up to The Drool. At an overlap, move right and continue upwards (50m). Climb easily up into a large recess, then take a V-groove leading out right to a platform (40m). Climb a short off-width crack with a chokestone, then choose a line through extensive ice to the top (50m).
GLEN CALLATER, Coire Kander:Kandy Bar 55m V,5 *. Paul Mather, Rachel Mather, Nick Bailey. 9 Jan 2011.Climb the parallel icefall to the right of Tuircish Delight.
CANNES GLEN:The Red Carpet 150m IV,4. John Higham, Iain Young. 2 Jan 2011.A well-defined, narrow and straight gully cuts through the crags before the obvious icefall of Where Eagles Dare is reached. Climb this in three pitches to the plateau. A classic gully, though needs a very hard freeze.
GLEN CLOVA, Coire Brandy:Space Pirates 70m VIII,8 **. Gordon Lennox, Tim Rankin. 30 Jan 2010.1. 40m Smuggler pitch 1.2. 15m From the stance by the blocks, step round right and climb a turfy corner stepping right at its top onto a terrace below the final headwall.3. 15m Climb up into a right-facing corner below an overhanging shattered fault-line. Climb the strenuous fault to a slight niche (bulldog), and move up to a stopping place on the left. From here a flying ramp leads out left. Tenuous and powerful moves in a spectacular position lead across this to an icicle hanging over the lip and leading to easy ground.
The Scorrie:Deer Tracks 250m II. Martin Cooper, Jenny Cooper. Jan 2011.Climbs the shallow curving gully right of Y Gully. Climb the initial icefall 20m. The gully opens out moving easily to a final narrow section leading to the top.
Craig Maud Area:The Night Watchman 230m III. George Allan, John Thomas. 7 Jan 2011.The sprawling buttress to the right of Pinnacle Ridge and North Gully of Craig Maud contains two obvious parallel slots at half-height. Start beneath the right-hand slot and climb a depression to reach it. Enter the slot (crux) and exit up leftwards. Easy ground with short steps leads to the plateau. A good freeze is needed.
GLEN ESK, Unich Buttress:Esk-ape 200m IV,5. Brian Duthie, Henning Wackerhage. 4 Dec 2010.A climb with good situations but too much heather for stars. It crosses North Ridge (SMCJ 2010).1. 25m Start some 50m up the gully and climb broken ground to reach a diagonal heathery ramp parallel to the gully. Belay in a niche with a crack-line above.2. 25m Traverse right and regain the ramp to reach a small tree.3. 25m Follow the diagonal line and belay in a niche.4. Traverse left to a tree. Climb right and up to reach the easier ground. Aim for the steeper section below a larger tree near the crest.
5. Climb the steeper section to reach the tree and then the crest. Easy ground to the end of the ridge remains.Climb broken ground to reach a ramp with much heather.
Earn Craig:Dschubba 160m V,7. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 28 Dec 2010.The easiest line in the area of Rock and Two Veg (SMCJ 2009). Start just left of centre on the crag base, where a ramp leads up left to a forest.1. 40m Go right and back left to gain the ramp. Follow it over a step to the biggest tree in the forest.2. 30m Go rightwards up a small turf ramp in the steeper ground above, then make a rising traverse right to a groove line which leads though overhangs above.3. 25m Climb the groove and a short chimney with bushes (Rock and Two Veg avoids these on the right) to reach the “large vegetated area”, which is the biggest ledge on the crag.4. 45m From the left end of this ledge, go up turfy ground leftwards to reach another ledge. Traverse this left to its end.5. 20m Go up and right to a bush on a ledge. Step past this, then up and make thin moves left to gain a smooth slab above (distinct sting in the tail). The route unexpectedly finishes.
Golden Buttress 215m E2/3 **. Simon Richardson, Duncan Tunstall. 24 May 2009.A route in the centre of the crag, starting from a grass ledge where the crag base starts to rise significantly up right. Start at the left end of a grass rake that finishes just to the right of a short clean-cut rock arete and below a small roof.1. 45m 5a Use the central crack to pull over the overhang and climb the slab above. As it steepens, follow a leftwards curving ramp to gain a grass ledge above with interest.2. 40m 4b Starting from the left end of the grass, follow a clear line up the left edge of the slab to reach the first break. Follow this rightwards to the centre of the face.3. 25m 5c Continue up the groove line which steepens up the face. As it ends step up and right to gain the continuation line on the right. Follow this to an excellent pedestal.4. 30m 5a Traverse down and right to reach the corner 15m to the right (wet), so continue traversing where a steep move gets above the overhangs and a traverse left returns to a large grassy belay ledge 20m above and just right of the previous belay.5. 45m 5a Climb up above the belay, then follow the obvious ramp-line up and right. At its end it steepens; climb directly up past a tree to reach the ledge belay (as for Right-Hand Route).6. 30m Traverse left on the lower break before following the grassy ramp up on the left to regain the rock and follow a nice triangular slab to the top.
Right-Hand Route 180m HVS. Simon Richardson, Duncan Tunstall. 3 May 2009.Start at the right corner of the buttress below the rightmost clean wall. Follow easy angled grass ramps backwards and forwards for about 50m to the left side of the slabby wall.1. 40m 4c Climb the cracks in clean slab on the right. At the top traverse left and climb the cracks above to the large break.2. 40m 4b Follow a grassy ramp right, then up and back left below the steep wall in the centre of the cliff.3. 30m 5b Climb up and left to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to its narrowest point, then go straight up a clean crack for 20m.4. 40m 4b Follow the break up and diagonally left.5. 30m 4b Take the easiest line up and left.Topo provided.
Raging Bull 170m V,6. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 26 Dec 2010.
Start at the right side of the cliff, to the left of the foot of Earn Gully. The first objective is an icefall in the middle of the buttress. Climb easily for 20m to a short wide crack where the cliff steepens.1. 50m Climb to the right of a wide crack to a tree. Continue up a short way to a ledge on the left is reached. Follow this to its left end and then climb up steeply for 15m. Continue on easier ground to a ledge.2. 30m Continue up on the right of a rock wall. This can be reached by a short wide crack. Above follow the line up diagonally left to the first steep ice.3. 40m Climb the short ice step. Traverse left to the larger icefall which is climbed direct. Continue up until a final steep buttress is reached.4. 30m Climb a short corner directly above the belay for 5m to a ledge. Follow the ledge right to the first icefall. Climb this direct to a tree on the left.5. 20m Finish up an easy snow ramp above.
Bruntwood Craig:Gro’lryc Gully 150m V,5 **. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 8 Jan 2011.This is the steeper and better defined left branch of a Y-shaped gully in the centre of the crag. Start up the gully base until it is possible to traverse left to below trees. Climb through the trees and right to the base of the main gully (60m). Climb to an impressive chimney and climb it as fits the route name (25m). Continue up the gully, on this occasion on steep and fragile ice (VI,5 on the day) to easier ground (45m). Finish past the cornice (20m).
Avatar 160m III **. Andy Nisbet, Duncan Tunstall. 8 Jan 2011.A well defined gully on the right side of the crag. Climbed on continuous thin ice, it could be a grade easier in the best conditions but maybe always serious. An initial pitch is avoidable by heathery ground on the left. The main gully gives sustained climbing to a cornice passed on the left.
Craig Maskeldie:Logue’s Direct 230m V,6. Duncan Tunstall, Stephen Venables 15 Feb 2011.This climbs the first two thirds of Shaula Ridge (SMCJ 2010) direct, it gives an additional three pitches that match the short top section of Shaula in difficulty and quality. Start where the ridge begins just to the right of the start of Dochty Gully. Climb a short step to easier ground to belay below the distinct rock step. Climb this direct in its centre for 40m to where the angle eases. Continue for two long pitches to join Shaula Ridge below its steep step. Climb this to the summit.
WATER OF SAUGHS, Corrie na Berran:Saughs Ridge 100m II. Simon Richardson. 30 Dec 2010.The right-hand ridge bounding the corrie, which can be seen in profile when walking up the Water of Saughs. Start just right of the crest and climb a wide gully to its end. Move left on to the broad crest and follow this to its end at a prominent cairn at NO 442 729.
S Gully 100m III. Simon Richardson. 30 Dec 2010.The main cliff at the head of the coire is defined by a steep triangular wall in its centre. Start 50m to its left and climb a 30m icefall leading the shallow ‘S’-shaped gully above.
Isosceles 150m II. Simon Richardson. 30 Dec 2010.Climb the broad ramp defining the left side of the triangular wall. From near its top, break left through mixed ground to reach an open gully (the next feature right of S Gully).
Pythagoras 150m II. Simon Richardson. 30 Dec 2010.The gully that slants up and left, defining the right edge of the triangular wall.
GLEN PROSEN, Bawhelps:Divine Providence 150m III,4. Simon Richardson. 4 Jan 2011.The S-shaped gully on the left side of the crag. Climb mixed ground for 50m to a steep ice pitch. Surmount this and continue up the steep step above to gain the meandering gully above.
Zigzag 150m III. Simon Richardson. 4 Jan 2011.Start 40m right of Divine Providence and climb up to an ice step. Continue up the easiest zigzag line above to finish up the buttress between Divine Providence and Break Left.
Break Left 150m II. Simon Richardson. 4 Jan 2011.From halfway up the ramp running left to right under the right side of the cliff, a well-defined left-slanting gully cuts the left wall. Follow this to a terrace and continue in the same line to the top.
SIDLAW HILLS, Lundie Crags (NO 277 377):Provide short climbs for those living in the area who fancy something more adventurous than a walk and have a couple of hours to spare. The climbs are turfy requiring a few days hard freeze followed by snowfall. Probably in condition for a few days every winter but being SE facing, they do strip readily in the sun. Martin Cooper has climbed a few routes here, the most notable being:
New Year 15m II. Martin Cooper. 2 Jan 2010.Climb the centre of a broad tongue of rock extending from the top of the escarpment. The top of the route is located 140m west from the mast clearly visible at the top end of the escarpment. Approach from below.
NORTH-EAST OUTCROPS
LONG HAVEN QUARRIES, Hawks Nest:Overarching Imperative 15m E4 6b ***. Graham Tyldesley. 19 Mar 2011.The corner line left of Pumping Velvet. Initial hard bridging up the undercut start leads to a bridging rest at mid-height. Burly laybacks and undercuts around the roof land you on a ledge at the top.
Kaboom 25m E4 6a **. Graham Tyldesley. 5 Feb 2011.Left of The Winds of War is an overhanging wall split by a crack. This route climbs the crack. Abseil directly from the block at the end of the plateau down an obvious corner line. After clearing the corner, kick off the wall and gain a good ledge at the mouth of the tunnel passing back through the headland. Traverse right to gain the crack and climb it until moves out left on the wall gain a diagonal ledge. Follow this back into the widening crack before gaining the easy corner above.
The Winds of War - Arete Finish 15m E2 5b. Graham Tyldesley, Dave Ogden. 19 Mar 2011.After exiting the Winds of War chimney, step left and climb the arete to the top. A bit eliminate on poor rock without much gear – nice line though.
South Face of Scimitar Ridge:Jinx 15m E8 6c ****. Gordon Lennox. 25 Aug 2010.This route climbs the crack-line emanating from the ledges down right of Comfortably Numb to jugs at the first thin horizontal break. The initial crack is technical bold and committing, protected by a small offset wire, then a Friend 1 after the difficulties and a
rock 3 by the jugs. From here traverse right to gain the crack near the arete (two DMM 3 nuts). This is followed by some desperate moves to small crimps on the right (5 nut placed with difficulty near the top of the crack). Move right to gain the arete and finish up this in a fantastic position.
RED TOWER:Jacala 16m E8 6c F7c+ S3 ***. Julian Lines. 19 May 2011.This is an absolutely immaculate piece of granite wall climbing, which is very dangerous to solo (spring tides only). Start on a thin ledge beneath the diagonal crack. Follow the crack for 3m until beneath a left-hand flake, then use this to reach the break and make a hard move to reach ‘the ear’ (Wasted Years moves right here). Continue directly up the wall on layaways past some undercuts to gain a left-hand boss. Continue to the break using opposing layaways. Finish direct up the granite shield more easily.
CUMMINGSTON:Pomme de Terre 15m HVS 5a *. Martin Collins, Dave Binney. 29 Jun 2011.Start up Appletiser and traverse round right to join Le Crunch. From here step right into the right-trending crack-line on the headwall above the arch. Stunning position. Take care at the top. Quite a logical line,with that nice position above the arch, great for all those jaded HVS climbers!
PORTNOCKIE:Desperate Fish Wives 42m HVS A2. Liam Johnson, Jim Leahy. 6 Jul 2011.A route on the sea arch come through cave just east around the headland from Bow Fiddle Rock. Also it can also be reached by walking to the far west end of Cullen Beach and following the path along the cliff base for a few minutes. It climbs the obvious square-cut blocky looking flying roof crack.1. 12m Hand-traverse leftwards into the cave at low tide along big incut hand holds sometimes with feet on the barnacles until a hanging belay on friends before the line takes a definite step up and left.2. 30m Free climb up and left on a good incut edge. Fix a Friend, then start aiding up the prominent line with a move at half-height to gain a slightly higher break at a particularly blocky looking section. Belay on a pre-placed abseil rope from two stakes above.
REDHYTHE POINT, Plateau Face, North-East side:Badger Ramp 10m Very Difficult. Iain Powell, Katie Munro. 10 Jun 2011.Head over the grassy col to the north-east side of Plateau Face towards the jumble of broken rocks. At the very north end there is a rock island just a few metres out to sea. There is a stagnant pool and the descent is down the ramp via abseil on the right to a small uneven ledge 1.5m above the high-tide line. Climb the ramp using the 'floating' corner-crack.
Diajamelly 15m Severe 4b. Iain Powell, Katie Munro. 11 Jun 2011.Start as for Badger Ramp and after 3m step right onto the north face and traverse a ledge to the start of a right-rising crack. Climb the crack to the top.
Don’t Lose Your Nuts! 12m VS 4b. Iain Powell, Katie Munro. 12 Jun 2011.Climb onto the ramp 1m above Badger Ramp and follow this rightwards to the roof. Traverse left following the crack and then over the roof at its narrowest point on good holds to the top.
Don’t Lose Your Nuts Direct 12m VS 4c. Iain Powell, Katie Munro. 15 Jun 2011.Climb straight up the face from below the narrowest point of the roof, over this and to the top.
The Tea Cleft:Under Pressure 16m E1 5a. Iain Powell, Katie Munro. 20 May 2011.The slab on the left-hand side as you look into The Tea Cleft from the grassy col. Start at the corner-crack under the small roof at low tide.
CLACH NA BEINN:Note: Giardia Groove (SMCJ 2010) is actually a winter ascent of Cave Crack.
HIGHLAND OUTCROPS
BEINN BHEAG, Lochailort:This is an isolated slab under the summit of Beinn Bheag with several routes developed by Donald King and Mike Pescod in 2001. Descriptions for these are too late for this volume, but hopefully will make the SMC web-site.
Die By the Drop 12m E10 7a **. Dave MacLeod. 31 Oct 2010.The extremely smooth left-hand side of the slab. Start up the E4 crack for a move but head off rightwards and climb up a very hollow patina flake. From a standing position on this, reach right and place a dubious microwire. Step left and climb the blank slab through a desperate bouldery sequence to gain a couple of slightly better quartz knobs. Place a small cam on the right and continue with more ease to the top.
Apophenia 12m E8 7a **. Dave MacLeod. 25 Nov 2010.Very precarious climbing up the centre of the slab. Climb direct to the twin seams (one microwire in each, the left one common to Die By the Drop). Step right and move up until forced to traverse precariously leftwards with a very worrying foot change (crux). Press on through a serious of tiny crimps to reach a good nut and easy ground in the small groove.
DRUIM FIACLACH:Located on the south side of this rocky hill at the head of Loch nan Uamh is a fine arete (NM 733 848) with a steep left wall and a grassy corner-gully on its left. Park near the bend in the road (NM 726 845) and start eastwards along a grassy track near a burn. Cross the railway and strike up the hillside; the arete becomes more obvious as height is gained, 25mins.
Arisaig Arete 55m VS **. Michael Barnard. 28 Jun 2011.An exhilarating climb with two contrasting pitches. At the base of the arete is a steep wall; start below this at the foot of an obvious shallow corner-groove.1. 20m 5a Climb the corner-groove, exiting right. Step right past heather and move up to the base of the clean arete.2. 35m 4b Follow the arete with little protection all the way to the top.
LOCH MOIDART, Castle Tioram:The Craic of the Clanranalds 8m E2 5c *. Seb Rider. 23 Jun 2011.The route is situated just above a small rocky beach on the westerly side of the rock of Castle Tioram. Road access is from Cul Doirlinn. Follow the steep overhanging crack exiting to the right avoiding the ivy at the top. Rock schist, aspect westerly, well protected.
POLLDUBH, Sheep Fank Wall:Mint Sauce 30m E1 5c *. Ken Applegate, Alex Wheeldon. 29 Mar 2011.
Start as for Sheep Fank Direct and climb the same initial groove, then its corner for 5m to the first roof. Make a delicate traverse left across a hanging slab to gain the arete of Fence Edge and finish up this.
Black’s Buttress:Note: Poeme a Loup (SMCJ 2010, p 147) was repeated by Steve Kennedy, Bob Hamilton & Cynthia Grindley and thought to be E2 5b and worth the two stars given.
Upper Scimitar:Bad Life Choices 10m E7 6b. Johann Urbano. 9 Apr 2011.Go straight up the centre of the slab on smears and small edges between Where the Mood Takes Me and the obvious big crack on the left. Easier for the tall, protected by pads.
BRIN ROCK, Crag One:Austrocelt Sound System 40m E6. Guy Robertson, Phil Ebert. 5 Sep 2010.An outstanding route up the overhanging wall and hanging slab left of Treasure Island. Start down and left of that route at a small stack of flakes.1. 20m 6b Step off the flakes and climb directly on good holds to a left-rising break. Move several metres left along this to the first protection (Friend 0, crucial), then step back right and use layaways to gain the top of a triangular feature. Make a move straight up, then step left on slopers before making long moves back up and right to a good shake-out. Hand-traverse the ledge left to a thin crack and use this to stand up and gain holds over the lip which lead to a belay in a niche.2. 20m 5c Climb the crack on the right, then step left into another crack which is followed to a bulging black streak. Climb boldly up the streak to gain a standing position in the base of the obvious right-trending ramp. Ignore this (tempting) and continue up bearing slightly left across the headwall to the top.
ASHIE FORT:Peat Tong 10m Very Difficult. Davy Moy, Andy Tibbs. 31 May 2011.Start halfway between Web Astair and the left end of the crag. Climb a straight crack-line with small ledges; it has a steep start.
Brain Damage 10m E3 6a **. Andy Tibbs, Davy Moy. 11 Oct 2010.The very steep line between Firecracker and Points of Departure is well protected.
Moss Shoe Shuffle 10m HVS 5a. Davy Moy, Peter Langlands. 2 May 2011.Climb a faint crack 4m right of Kenny’s Revenge and continue up a slab to the top.
After Quark 10m HVS 5a. Davy Moy, Dave Allan. 26 Apr 2011.Climb a right-facing corner 6m right of Kenny’s Revenge, then go straight up a slab.
Doubt Corner 10m HVS 5a *. Davy Moy, Dave Allan. 26 Apr 2011.Two metres right of the last route. Cross an overlap into a shallow right-facing stepped corner and then directly over an overlap at the top.
Ruby Tuesday 10m E2 5b *. Andy Tibbs, Davy Moy. 12 Oct 2010.A wall and overlap right of Quark Strangers.
Clavicle Attack 10m HVS 5a. Davy Moy, Peter Langlands. 2 May 2011.Right of the last route is a right-facing corner capped with a wee overhang. Climb the corner and over onto a ledge. Go slightly right and up the headwall via a scoop.
CREAG DUBH, Little Rock:
Bulgarian Biceps 15m HVS 5a. Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 2 Jul 2011.Based on the left arete of the wall left of the second pitch of Hungarian Hamstring. Pleasant climbing but escapable. Start below the arete and climb a wide crack to the right end of a ledge (unfortunately you can walk off here). Move right and climb trending slightly right to an easy slabby finish.
CRAIG A’ BARNS, Polney Crag:Blast Off 30m HVS 5b. Michael Barnard, Ron Dempster. 27 Mar 2011.Climbs a line of weakness through the short steep headwall overlooking Holly Tree Groove (right of Scram '79). Start below a crack leading up to the short corner/niche of that route. Climb the crack and move through the bulge above to reach the headwall. Launch up this (crux), before moving right to finish up the chimney of Holly Tree Groove.
CREAG NAN SPEIREAG:Big Slab 55m VS 4b. Keith Alexander, Graeme Diack, Karin Helwig. 8 Apr 2011.A route on a a big slabby rock between Creagruie and Bleater’s Wall and visible from the road.1. 10m Climb the corner-crack on the left flank of the giant slabby boulder, moving up right to a big sloping ledge with an in-situ peg at the right-hand end.2. 45m 4b Round the corner, on the slabby face, traverse right along a narrow ledge with a large horizontal crack for hands, then step up to gain a thin vertical crack which leads up the right side of the slab. When the crack ends, continue more easily up the right edge of the slab to a tree belay.Note: The rock has been climbed before, as there was abseil tat at the top, but the line unknown.
BEN NEVIS, AONACHS, CREAG MEAGAIDH
BEN NEVIS, The Little Brenva Face:Right Major 320m IV,6. Ewan Lyons, Ewan Olivarius. 29 Jan 2011.Start about a third of the way along the approach ramp to NE Buttress, where an in-situ sling 5m up marks the start.1. 50m Go up to the sling, traverse left along a narrow ledge, then go up an open gully to its end. Traverse up and right to a shelf under a steep wall to below a short groove.2. 50m Go up the groove, then trend up and right across snowslopes to belay at the left end of a large terrace under a deep groove.3. 60m Follow the groove up left, then back right until underneath a large steep wall on the left; belay below a short rock barrier.4. 40m Surmount the rock step with difficulty (crux) and gain a steep ramp up and right to an improbable traverse along a ledge below the steep wall. Belay down and right of a short icy corner on the top pitch of The Lime Green Gaiter.5. 60m Climb a corner and easier snow, then over an icy bulge to a rock rib in the middle of open snowslopes.6. 60m Go up and left on easy snow to join Route Major at the intersection with Frost Bite.
Tower Ridge East Flank:Triple X 150m VIII, 8 *. Ines Papert, Charly Fritzer, Dave MacLeod. 28 Jan 2011.A thin icy mixed climb starting up the summer line of Rolling Stones but following thin icy slabs to its left and then a difficult mixed chimney to reach the Eastern Traverse.1. 40m As for Rolling Stones. Follow the left-slanting ramp easily leftwards to its termination. Arrange gear and then gain and follow the traverse line going back right
with difficulty to eventually gain ledges. Bold for leader and second, a little ice/neve very useful.2. 55m Climb the left-slanting corner for a few metres, then traverse left across the slab on very thin ice. Surmount a steepening to gain intermittent cracks leading leftwards up the slabs to a sentry box. A steep pull over this leads to large ledges.3. 55m Move leftwards along the ledges to below the steep V shaped chimney (common to Faith Healer). Climb this to the Eastern Traverse; move up this a short way to belay.
The Pretender 55m VII,9. Nick Bullock, Andy Turner, Bruce Poll. 17 Feb 2011.A direct line up the previously unclimbed buttress to the right of the Great Chimney area. The main pitch is very well protected by a good rack of cams up to number 4 and a good selection of wires. One fall taken on pitch 2.1. 30m Climb the icy buttress via steep ice steps, leading to a large shelf and the very steep wall above.2. 25m The wall is split by a wide crack/chimney somewhat reminiscent to Darth Vader low down and goes into a very steep wide crack direct with a thinner crack/recess/overhang running right into an overhang finish. The right version was taken. Knee bar rests, head jams and shoulder jams are advisable and available for the weak or not needed for the strong.
Douglas Boulder:Feckless 170m VI,7 **. Pete Benson, Nick Bullock. 27 Nov 2010.1. 30m Start up the massive overhanging flake in the line of the deep chimney of Gutless. Climb the corner of Gutless passing a smaller overhang to a ledge beneath the deep chimney of Gutless.2. 40m Reverse a few moves down from the belay until level with an icy groove on the right wall. Climb the groove through the bulge and continue in the same line above passing overhangs until the angle eases and a large ledge beneath a steep wall is reached.3. 50m Climb a dark icy corner to the right of where the last pitch topped out. Initial steep climbing through a bulge leads into a corner of perfect hooks and torques. Belay on a ledge/nose, to the right of the top of the corner.4. 50m Climb an overhang, corner-line and wide crack on the left of the belay until the climbing gets easier. Turf and snowy ledges are climbed direct until just beneath the top of the Douglas Boulder.
Rutless 20m VII,8 **. Nick Bullock, Matt Helliker. 30 Nov 2010.A direct finish to the deep chimney cleft of Gutless. A short test of fitness that feels a whole lot longer than it is. The climbing is brilliant, the crux is placing gear.1. 20m Directly above the deep fault-line of Gutless and beneath a seriously steep wall is a wide ledge. From the left of this ledge and directly above the finish of Gutless, climb an overhanging icy crack for approximately 5m until a small ledge is reached. Traverse the ledge, right to left to reach a good rest pedestal in a corner. From the ledge, climb the very steep corner above to exit on the left.
Nutless 145m VI,7 **. Matt Helliker, Nick Bullock. 29 Nov 2010.The first winter ascent with a direct start. Start approximately 10m left of the obvious corner chimney/fault-line of Gutless and beneath a slabby wall which leads to a short overhanging right-facing corner at approximately 15m.1. 20m Climb the slabby wall beneath the overhanging corner with a delicate move left before reaching the base of an overhanging corner. Climb the corner and pull the steep exit to belay directly above and beneath a short overhang/roof.2. 10m Pull over the roof directly above the belay and traverse the ledge left until beneath the groove/corner of Nutless.3. 50m Climb the groove, difficult for a few moves until turf in abundance speeds up proceedings. Moving slightly left following a groove until beneath a big off-width
overhanging flake system. Climb this direct until pulling onto a large ledge beneath a beautiful overhanging bow-shaped corner-crack.4. 15m Climb the bow-shaped overhanging crack with a slab on the right.5. etc. Climb direct to the top of the Douglas Boulder.
Secondary Tower Ridge:Rogue’s Rib Direct 210m VII,7. Iain Small, Simon Richardson. 19 Mar 2011.A direct ascent of the summer line. The winter version (Clough-Grandison) climbed the top section of the buttress after starting up Italian Climb.1. 35m From the foot of Italian Climb, move left along a narrow ledge for 3m then climb straight up to a steep wall cut by twin cracks. Climb the wall to easier ground leading to a steep slabby section. Turn this via a steep groove on the right to reach a ledge.2. 50m Continue up an open groove leading to an open chimney that cuts through the steep headwall above. Surmount a steep slab at its top to reach a good platform and block belay.3. 60m Climb the undercut right-facing groove at the back of the platform to reach easy ground leading to a neck. Cross this and move up to the foot of the second tier. Belay below an undercut chimney cutting through the centre of the second tier.4. 25m Climb the chimney by cracks on the right, followed by a delicate traverse to gain the gully bed. Climb the gully to where it ends below a bulging wall and step right to belay by stacked blocks. This pitch is common with the Clough-Grandison line.5. 40m Move left to below the bulging wall and climb this to the continuation gully above. Climb this to near its top then trend right to a shallow corner. Follow this to the crest of Secondary Tower Ridge.
Garadh na Ciste:Note: Broad Gully Variation 100m III. Christian Minett, Paul Cubbins, Tom Williams. 12 Mar 2011.A thin ice runnel on the right about 25m past the traverse for Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower. Finish by a traverse left for 60m at the snowfield to join Tower Ridge just on the Great Tower and the Eastern Traverse.
Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower:Goodfellas 230m VII,8. Simon Richardson, Iain Small. 21 Jan 2011.The impressive front prow of Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower between Face Dancer and Stringfellow.1. 60m Start up and left of the lower tier and climb icy grooves raking up and right (as for Fatal Error) to the terrace.2. 20m From the foot of the ramp taken by Stringfellow, climb a line of grooves parallel to Fatal Error until directly below the hanging groove.3. 30m Gain the groove by crossing a steep slab from the left and then climb it (sustained and technical) to gain a well-defined triangular niche.4. 20m Pull steeply out of the niche and follow the vague fault-line up the rounded crest of the buttress to gain the large ledge at the end of pitch 3 of Stringfellow.5. 40m Stringfellow climbs the slab and right-hand of twin grooves above. Instead, make a steep pull onto the crack system left of the Stringfellow slab and follow the ramp to the steeper left-hand groove. Continue up Stringfellow to the platform below the crux headwall of Stringfellow.6. and 7. 80m Climb the headwall as for Stringfellow (20m), then follow the easy crest to the foot of The Great Tower.
Number Three Gully Buttress:Apache 110m VIII,9. Steve Ashworth, Paddy Cave. 13 Nov 2010.
1. 40m From the foot of Thompson’s Route climb a series of short walls and sloping ledges to gain a narrow gangway at the foot of the cracked wall.2. 30m Make a committing sequence of moves up the blank gently overhanging wall to gain the steep crack follow this to a good ledge.3. 40m Follow the continuing crack-line above the ledge as the angle eases to gain a ledge under a triangular recess. Pull through the roof and climb easy ground to the summit of the buttress.
Creag Coire na Ciste:Catriona 65m VIII,8. Peter Davies, Tim Marsh. 21 Nov 2010Climbs the short but striking arete to the left of Cornucopia. A superb second pitch. Protection is excellent once the crack at one-third height is reached. Start as for Cornucopia.1. 10m Climb easy angled snow and mixed ground leading to a short groove formed by the left side of the slabs beneath Cornucopia. Belay beneath the arete.2. 30m Begin by climbing the left side of the arete past a ledge and an obvious flake. From a standing position atop the flake, swing round on to the right side of the arete. Move up a small corner, then make commiting moves to get stood on a sloping ledge. From the ledge, climb a steep crack a little to the right of the arete until level with a small corner that cuts into the upper third of the arete. A tenuous step left leads to a good rest at the base of the corner. Climb the steep corner to reach a sloping terrace. Continue to a belay beneath a corner at the right-hand side of the wall taken by pitch 2 of The Secret.3. 25m Climb the steep turfy corner and then easier angled ground leading to a short snowslope and the cornice.
To Those who Wait 55m IX,9. Greg Boswell, Will Sim. 4 Jan 2011.The steep crack-line up the overhanging wall which is round the arete to the left of The Secret.1. 30m Climb an icy right-facing corner until it steepens, then traverse a rock shield on the right to enter a hanging chimney with difficulty. Continue up the stepped turfy ground above to below the steep wall.2. 25m Climb the steep crack and wall with increasing difficulty until below the three-quarters way ledge. Gain this, take a deep breath then launch up the overhanging wall above.
Note: Iain Small & Tony Stone on 12 Feb 2011 climbed a line of corners and offwidths in line with Avenging Angel, named Angels with Dirty Faces (VIII,8). Above, the route follows steep crack and corners left of the finish of Archangel.
South Trident Buttress: Note: Pinnacle Arete Variation 35m IV,6. Andy Huntington, Robin Clothier. 23 Oct 2010.On pitch two at the big ledge instead of heading right, take the direct line up a steep crack come narrow chimney which exited beside the top of The Clanger.
Moonlight Gully Buttress:Flying Saucer Attack 75m III. Anne Le Coant, Alex Kelly. 5 Feb 2011.Start 20m up Moonlight Gully. Climb the left-hand edge of Moonlight Gully Butress overlooking Moonlight Gully for 15m. Make a rising traverse across the buttress to meet Diagonal Route, just left of large cave in centre of the face (30m). Traverse across the cave leading to Right-Hand Chimney and easy ground to the top (30m).
Number Five Gully Buttress:Lysystrata VI,8. Rich Cross, Andy Benson. 30 Nov 2010.
Two pitches of steep and technical climbing with excellent protection, by the summer line.
Free Range 145m VII,7 ***. Malcolm Bass, Jim Higgins, Simon Yearsley. 12 Feb 2011.This fine route is based around the summer route Chicken Run. It gives excellent mixed climbing, of similar character and quality to Tower Face of The Comb. Start as for Chicken Run.1. 25m Climb the steep crack to a ledge.2. 25m Move up and right for 3m, then head straight up the steep flaky wall to the traverse line of Chicken Run. Follow this to the ‘great flake belay’.3. 40m Four metres right is an obvious steep left-facing right-angle corner. Gain the base of the corner and climb it strenuously to a very hard move onto the sloping ledge on the right. Peg runner high on the right. Move back left to pull over the bulge. Above and slightly right is a line of steep chimneys and grooves, hidden from below. Climb these in a superb position to an exit right onto a good ledge.3. 30m Move right along the ledge to where it is possible to break through the short steep barrier wall. Continue up a short V-groove to easier ground. Trend rightwards to belay at the base of a wide open corner system.4. 25m Climb the fine corner system to the top where Ledge Route comes in from the right.
North Wall Carn Dearg:Brave New World 125m IX,8. Iain Small, Simon Richardson. 20 Feb 2011.A direct line up the wall between Kellett’s North Wall Route and The Past is Close Behind. Very sustained with a bold and committing final pitch.1. 25m Start 15m right of the initial chimney of Kellett’s North Wall Route and climb a short wall to crack. Climb this to a left-trending ramp to a steep exit onto Broad Terrace.2. 25m Move up and right across the terrace and climb the right-facing chimney-gully (down climbed by MacPhee’s Route) to Flake Terrace.3. 35m Reverse back down the chimney for 5m and step right onto a narrow dwindling ledge cutting across a vertical wall. Follow this to a right-facing groove, climb this over a bulge to a roof, step delicately right then continue up steep cracks to Diagonal Terrace.4. 40m The vertical headwall above is breached by a steep corner leading up to an apparent featureless wall. Climb the corner, pull over a bulge and continue to a roof. Surmount this (bold) and climb the impending headwall above on discontinuous cracks to reach the top of the wall. Either descend left to reach Waterfall Gully, or abseil the line of the route.
Raeburn’s Buttress:The Great Flake Start 130m VII,7. Nick Bullock, Rich Cross. 8 Feb 2011.A direct start to The Great Corner. 1. 60m Start below the centre of Raeburn’s Buttress and trend up and right to below the first steep corner and the obvious mini-cenotaph.2. 40m Turn the corner on the right on steep turf steps and belay beneath a steep chimney.3. 30m Climb the chimney and then descend the Girdle Traverse ledge to beneath the first pitch of The Great Corner.
MAMORES, Stob Ban, South Buttress:Tippy Toe 200m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 1 Dec 2010.A route based on the groove right of Groove Rider. Start at the base of South Gully where the base of the buttress on the right leaves the gully wall. Head up left on easy turfy ground to a short wall (35m). Climb this and traverse left along a ledge to the groove. Climb this to a steep corner (40m). Start up the corner, then traverse right along
the lip of a bulge to reach turf near its right arete. Climb to an easier section, then take a continuation line to an easing (45m). Continue to the crest and follow it to the summit (80m).
SGURR A MHAIM:Devil’s Rib 200m III. Ewan Olivarius, Ewan Lyons. 4 Dec 2010.The most prominent rib in the hanging coire, halfway along the west side of the Devil’s Ridge between Stob Choire a’ Mhail and Sgurr a’ Mhaim. Alt 820m, start point NN163 663. Approach from Glen Nevis. The route finishes on the ridge just north of Bealach a’ Chip. Start at the toe of the buttress.1. 50m Go up left and then back right underneath an overhang by a steep step. Find the line of least resistance between small outcrops until an easy snowslope leads to a belay on the crest below the next steepening.2. 50m Move up and left to gain a short rock step just left of the spiky crest of the ridge. Carry on up until the angle eases to reach steeper ground. Turf belay.3. 60m Climb the middle of the steep ground past a block on the right, then across a short neck.4. 40m Easy ground leads to the top.
AM BODACH:Central Buttress 400m II. Andy Nisbet. 4 Dec 2010.This is the best defined buttress (Solstice Gully is to its right), starting above the flat area in the corrie floor and leading directly to the south cairn of Am Bodach summit area (the north and probably higher cairn is 60m away). Start at the base and climb steep turf to an easier section. Continue up just left of a sharp rock crest to reach easier slopes leading to the cornice.
CARN DEARG MEADHONACH:Note: The route Family Affair (SMCJ 2010 p155) is the same route as Chevron described in SMCJ 2008 p172. The description from 2008 but with the name Family Affair should be used.
AONACH MOR, An Cul Choire:Inverted Ridge 120m III 4 *. Pete Harrop, Steve Kennedy. 18 Apr 2010.The next short buttress beyond (north of) Infinite Ridge. The buttress resembles an inverted V and the right leg was climbed. At the point where the ridges converge a short icefall was climbed leading to a finish up easy snowslopes.
AONACH BEAG, Central West Face:Cryogenic Corner 150m IV,4. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet. 1 Jan 2011.An iced right-facing corner about 60m right of The Navigator. Climb steep snow to the base of the corner (40m). Climb the corner to an overlap (20m). Climb the overlap on ice 5m right of the corner, then continue on iced slabs to rejoin the corner and continue to an easing (40m). Move up left to an arete and climb snow and easy-angled ice up , then right to snowslopes (50m).
Glycerol Gully 200m II. Andy Nisbet. 6 Mar 2011.An icefall which forms in the vague rib right of Cryogenic Corner. Start where snow leads up left to Cryogenic Corner. Climb ice pitches separated by snow, with the steepest section passed by easier ice on the right, to reach a left-slanting snow trough. Go up this for about 30m to where another icefall in a slight gully leads up right. Follow this up and then left into a corner (direct would be steeper ice) which leads to the big upper snowslopes.
STOB A’ CHOIRE MHEADHOIN, Coire Shomhairle (NN 326 745):
Àite Cruinnichidh 55m, II/III. John Proctor, Chris Banks. 1 Jan 2011.An icefall at the left end of a lower tier of steep ground at the top of the corrie. Clearly visible in the topo provided.
One One Eleven 70m I. John Proctor, Chris Banks. 1 Jan 2011.A straightforward snow gully in the upper tier, directly above the icefall and with small patches of ice.
CREAG MEAGAIDH:Special Delivery 220m VI,6 ***. Donnie O’Sullivan, Peter Davies, Mike Gardner. 12 Feb 2011An excellent ice climb in a stunning position. To the left of South Pipe Direct and overlooking Staghorn Gully, there is a hanging slab topped by a steep wall. A prominent line of snow drains down to the top of the steep wall and in good conditions a cascade of ice forms. A long pitch of ice leads in a direct line up to the base of the main cascade. The cascade is unlikely to completely touch down but icy mixed climbing, which may not be visible from the corrie floor allows the icefall to be gained with surprising ease.1. 55m Start from Staghorn Gully directly beneath the cascade (30m right of Postal Strike). Climb 70 degree ice for 25m to an icicle fringe. Climb the icicles (90 degrees for 3m) to reach the easier angled slab. Climb this to a belay on the right side of the cascade.2. 45m Climb an icy corner for 10m to where good rock gear protects a delicate leftwards traverse to gain the main icefall. Climb the icefall for 30m and continue to a rock belay on the right.3. 60m Regain the easier angled gully and continue in a direct line towards the upper snowfield.4. 60m Snowslopes lead to the cornice.
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS, Fort Augustus Area:Return of Nedi the Jedi 40m III. Michael Carrol. David Whalley, Ian Kelly. 8 Dec 2010.Leave Fort Augustus for 3.5km on the A82 heading to Spean Bridge. Park at a forestry track by the road (NH 356 054). Walk up the track for 10mins, climb through the forestry to a waterfall, 10mins. NH 360 055. Climb the falls direct or the left-hand side to a tree belay. Great for a short day and can be included with Culachy Falls, NH 373 059, but a longer walk in!
CREAG DUBH:Paper Trail 130m IV,5. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 11 Jan 2011.The big fault immediately left of Great Wall. Start up a diagonal crack (the start of Men Only) – this is often bare of snow – and climb the fault to a tree (25m). Continue up the fault over an icy bulge and a second bulge with a tree, to reach its top (35m). Traverse a ledge left, then climb turfy ground left then right to trees (35m). Climb a diagonal crack to a bulge, then traverse right to easier ground, followed to the top (35m).
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS, GEAL CHARN, Creag Dhubh:Wee Softie 45m II/III. Martin Holland, Pamela Millar. 2 Dec 2008.This route is on a crag high on left of the crag shown NE of the main crag. It is on the left/upper tier of this crag at approx. NN 596 799. The lower level of this crag may be the one where the routes Flight of the Navigator and Map and Compass are described in SMCJ 2004, although the map ref is wrong (it’s in the loch).1. 18m Start 5m right of the cave and climb turf and ice steps to the higher of two bent over trees.2. 25m Continue up turf and ice to two saplings at the base of an iced slab. Climb the slab leftwards to pass a triangular overhanging nose on its left.
Narwhal 50m III,4. David & John Lyall. 4 Feb 2009.The buttress between Wafer Me and Ice Cream.Steep ice to start and in the middle, followed by a line left of the final headwall to eventually break out right to finish.
Merlin 100m IV,4 *. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 7 Jan 2011.Starts about 200m right of The Hex Factor, where a shallow gully runs into an amphitheatre.Climb the easy gully and steep icefall above.
Hidden Gem 120m IV,4 *. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 7 Jan 2011.Just right of Merlin is a steep buttress with a right-slanting easy gully on the right flank. Follow the easy gully, and the minor left branch cutting behind the buttress, to belay beneath an ice chocked chimney. Follow the chimney, then the steepest ice on the left side of the next wall to the top (50m).
GEAL CHARN (Drumochter):Both the routes described in SMCJ 2004 with an incorrect map ref were repeated in 2010. John Hall, Alan Hunt & John Swift repeated Flight of the Navigator but graded it IV,5 (admittedly conservative) and reported a map ref of NN 595 799. Mark Bannan repeated Map and Compass, giving III,4 as before.
GLEN COE
BUACHAILLE ETIVE MOR:Line Up VIII,8. Andy Nelson, Kenny Grant, Andy Sharp. 21 Dec 2009.Start up the vegetated chimney of Route 1, then work up and left past an obvious small block, up the short wall to the Line Up stance. From here follow the summer route. The climbing is superb, intricate and quite bold in the first two pitches, sustained throughout, with sensational, well protected climbing on the last pitch up the corner and through the roof.
Great Gully Upper Buttress:Weasily Recognised 15m VS 4c *. Gary & Karen Latter, Alex Thomson. 9 Jul 2011.The obvious crack towards the left end of the crag, halfway along the wall left of Happy Valley, gained from the right.
Stoatily Different 15m E1 5a *. Alex Thomson, Gary & Karen Latter. 9 Jul 2011.Climb direct line up the wall starting just right of the crack. Poorly protected.
World Class 45m HVS 5a *. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 23 Jul 2011.A fine outing. To the right of the initial wall of Facade is a crack with an obvious leftward kink. Go up to climb the crack, following it out left before moving up to the ledge below the upper wall. Step left below the top groove of Facade and climb steep cracks to the top.
Barbeque Rib 50m HVS 4c. Michael Barnard, John MacLeod. 23 Jul 2011.The rib left of Bent Crack, finishing up the steep top groove of Facade.
Notes: Happy Valley itself will be more like 20m than the given 30m, and Yam 30m (not 40m).Jamay was climbed free by Ben Darvill & Gary Latter on 11 Jul 2009, at no change to the original (E3 5c **) grade.
The top groove of Facade was the physical crux (and possibly the overall crux!) of Barbeque Rib, suggesting an upgrade to VS 4c. Bent Crack and Bent Crack Rib will both be more like 50m than 40m.
STOB COIRE SGREAMHACH EAST, Sron na Lairig Summit Buttress:All three routes lie on the steepest and highest buttress just right of the “easy grade I gully” mentioned in the current Glencoe guidebook. Alt 900m, North-facing.
The Promise 110m III *. Simon Yearsley, Dan Peach. 22 Dec 2010.A nice route taking the left-hand edge of the buttress. Starts at the foot of the easy gully.1. 55m Climb the rib right of the gully in a pleasant position to just below a col with a small tree.2 . 55m Follow the obvious turfy line trending up and right. This becomes more enclosed as it twists left then right, before easier angled ground leads to the top.
The Grey Pillar 60m VI,7 **. Paul Figg, Malcolm Bass. 8 Jan 2011.Slightly left of the centre of the steep, stepped lower walls of the summit buttress is a grey pillar with a groove on its left side. This is the line.1. 30m Climb blocky turfy ground up and right to enter the groove. Climb this over a bulge (crux, thin turf) to a small ledge on the right.2. 30m Climb up and right over another bulge to a right-trending ramp. Follow this to a snow bay. Finish up a deep crack in an open corner.
The Slot 60m V,6 *. Neil Silver, Simon Yearsley. 8 Jan 2011.Start on the right-hand side of the buttress in a bay which has a short pillar on its top left.1. 25m Climb a steep grove to the right of the pillar, and continue up and slightly right to a fine belay.2. 35m Follow the gully for 15m to where a steep wall bars the way. High up left on the skyline is an obvious beckoning slot. Climb up steep turfy ground to the base of the slot, and climb it in a fine position to the top.
COIRE EILDE, Eilde Canyon:Simon Yearsley and friends have explored the canyon formed by the Allt Lairig Eilde and climbed several icefalls on its walls. The routes have been described on a topo.
AONACH DUBH, Far Eastern Buttress:Japseye Variation to Yen 35m VI,6. Adam Hughes, Colm Burke, Dave Burke. 10 Mar 2011.Follow Yen to the ledge and belay below the steep crack between Yen and the obvious chimney. Climb the steep crack, crux, to join the chimney at its top and belay (25m). A short pitch leads to a bay and easy ground.
AONACH DUBH, North Face:Note: The second peg on The Clearances is no longer there. Ian Taylor thought E4 5c, 6a.
AONACH DUBH, West Face, No.2 Gully Buttress:Rose Late 75m IV,6. Sandy Allan, John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 7 Dec 2010.A winter ascent based on what was assumed to be the summer line (but the descriptions in the current guide are poor). Start near the base of The God Daughter (SMCJ 2009). Take a ramp leading up left, then its continuation to reach the halfway terrace near its left end (35m). Climb over bulging blocks to gain and climb a wide crack to reach a good ledge (10m). Move left and climb steep turfy steps to the top (30m).
Oz 65m VII,7. Sandy Allan, John Lyall, Andy Nisbet. 8 Dec 2010.
A winter ascent close to the summer line. The first pitch is steep and sustained but the second pitch (common to Steptoe – SMCJ 2009) is serious and several peg runners were used. Climb a turfy groove immediately right of Rose Innominate, then step right into the main groove. Climb this to the wedge shaped crack, then move left to gain the terrace (30m). Climb pitches 2 and 3 of Oz (35m). These are the same as the pitches on Steptoe summer; the descriptions even fit.
The Wonderful Wizard 75m V,6 *. John Lyall, Jonathan Preston. 4 Dec 2010.Start at the right end of the ledge, below the pinnacle of The Verger.1. 45m Climb a wide crack on the right, then up a snow bay and short chimney. Follow a gully to a big left-leaning corner in the next tier, then move right to belay beneath a steep groove.2. 30m Follow the groove to the top.
Shrike Ridge 85m IV,4 **. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 27 Nov 2010.An excellent short winter route (see SMCJ 2010) which is very accommodating and well protected. Start just right of the short steep wall at the foot of the knife-edged arete. Climb the cracked slabby wall right of the edge then move left onto the arete. Continue up the broad ridge finishing up a short corner on the right. Ideal when higher conditions are doubtful. Abseil descent possible to avoid the open slopes above the West Face.
Killing Time 90m III *. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 4 Dec 2010.The groove immediately right of Shrike Ridge. Finish directly up a slim groove.
No.5 Gully:Guidelines 90m IV,4 *. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 18 Dec 2010.No.5 Gully divides into two branches in the upper third just above The Rake. The right branch forms a narrow gully. This route climbs the broad buttress lying between the two branches. It may correspond with the upper section of E4F5 Route. Start at the foot of the right branch where it narrows, move left and climb a short groove to a steep wall at 10m. Traverse horizontally left on turf ledges to the middle of the buttress then up to a block belay (50m). A short wall and arete leads to the top of the right branch (40m). Finish up No.5 Gully.
The Amphitheatre:Winifred’s Pinnacle, East Face 20m II/III *. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 27 Nov 2010.Winifred’s Pinnacle sits in the upper right corner of the Amphitheatre. This is the first recorded winter ascent, the pinnacle having first been climbed in October 1900 by Mr and Mrs Abraham on their honeymoon! The exposed summit provides a magnificent outlook over the west face and beyond. Access either via No.4 Gully or from The Rake (can conveniently be combined with an ascent of Dubh Chasm as on this occasion).Start at the neck in the deep chasm behind the pinnacle (Dubh Chasm). A stiff pull up the initial short wall leads to a ledge which is traversed left to a large block. Step left from the block then follow a groove up and right to the top. Abseil descent.
Winifred’s Seduction 40m IV,6 **. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 9 Jan 2011.An excellent route located on the north flank of the pinnacle. The difficulties are short lived and well protected. Start about 10m below the neck and climb a short chimney. Move right via ledges passing below a small projecting block aiming for a steep wall and crack near the right edge. Climb the steep crack to a small pedestal. Step right into a chimney which is followed to the top. Abseil descent.
Dubh Chasm 130m III **. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 27 Nov 2010.
An entertaining outing with impressive rock scenery. The upper face of The Amphitheatre contains a remarkable chasm which runs almost horizontally leftwards from the top right corner of the Amphitheatre to near the top of North Ridge. The only difficulties are found in the final 8m. Enter the deep confines of the chasm from The Amphitheatre (near the base of the south edge of Winifred’s Pinnacle) and climb the first easy section to a neck behind a large pinnacle (Winifred’s Pinnacle). Descend slightly from the neck and enter the final section finishing up a short mixed wall. Easily reached from the Rake. Not to be confused with The Slot which lies on the lower left side of The Amphitheatre.
BIDEAN NAM BIAN, Church Door Buttress:Temple of Dumb 45m E4 5c *. Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer. 29 Jul 2011.Follow the second pitch of Temple of Doom for 6m and where it moves left, move right until below a large corner. Gain the base of the corner by a circular move out right to avoid a loose looking flake, then continue up the sustained corner, pulling left onto a ledge at the top. Finish easily.Note: The peg on The Lost Ark is no more and the route is nearer E5 in its current state.
BIDEAN NAM BIAN, West Top:Stramash 120m IV,4. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 22 Nov 2010.This climbs the right edge of the buttress, right of The Hash. Start at the base of the buttress and climb a shallow groove to a ledge right of The Hash (60m) – various starts to The Gash may cross this. Go up right via a wide flake-crack (crux) to a ridge which forms the right edge of the buttress. Follow the ridge to a thread (40m). Finish up the ridge (20m).
Odyssey 80m II/III *. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 29 Jan 2011.An icefall forms on the right side of the steep buttress right of Minute Man, just before the buttress peters out into easier ground. Climb the icefall in two steps to reach a large snow bay. Mixed ground leads fairly directly to the top. The lower section can largely bank out in a heavy build up.
The following routes are situated on the small isolated buttress right of the main buttress containing Minute Man. Although the routes are short, they provide excellent, sustained mixed pitches.
Westie 90m II. John Lyall, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston. 22 Nov 2010.Start left of the base of the buttress. Climb a groove to a terrace below steep ground. Move left and climb a second groove, then a third which both lie just left of steep ground. Finish up a short groove on the right. The third groove has a steep finish and might make the route Grade III.
Puppet on a String 50m V,6 **. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 23 Jan 2011.The main central groove provides a sustained and absorbing long pitch. Climb the left-facing corner, then move left around the lower roof into the main corner. Follow the corner to a further small roof which splits the corner/groove. Move left and climb an awkward wall (crux) which leads into the upper left-hand groove which is followed to the top.
Tiger Feet 50m IV,5 *. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald, Bob Hamilton. 23 Jan 2011.Right of Puppet on a String is a further corner/groove. Climb the lower section until the corner steepens and becomes better defined. Leave the corner and follow an easier line out right below a projecting buttress to reach a ledge overlooking the gully on the right
(20m). Make an exposed step out left onto a slabby wall which is climbed using a groove on the right (crux). Follow the groove then step left and finish up a cracked wall on the left (30m).
Pirouette 45m VI,7 **. Lewis Harrop, Steve Kennedy, Bob Hamilton. 19 Mar 2011.A fine sustained pitch up the attractive looking slabby wall immediately left of the groove of Tiger Feet. Start at the foot of the groove and climb a system of cracks leading up the left wall. Finish by moving out left below the bulging upper wall via a groove leading to the left edge. Step left from the edge and finish up a short groove. The difficulties increase with height.
BEINN A’ CHRULAISTE:Note: In the Glen Coe guide p371, the first ascentionists of Highest Gully and Candlemass Gully should be P.W.F. Gribbon & P.J.Biggar. Both routes were climbed in winter.
GLEN ETIVE, STOB COIR’ AN ALBANNAICH, North Corrie:Tomb Raider 70m III *. Steve Kennedy, Andy MacDonald. 12 Dec 2010.The groove/gully on the right of the buttress containing Air of Detachment. Climbed in lean conditions. Probably easier later in the season.
Croft Original 50m III *. Andy MacDonald, Steve Kennedy. 12 Dec 2010.This route climbs the obvious short gully on the right side of the coire where the buttresses start to peter out. The cornice formed the crux and was outflanked by a tricky leftward traverse.
GARBH BHEINN (ARDGOUR), Pinnacle Buttress:Contortion 220m VII,7. Simon Richardson, Roger Webb. 5 Dec 2010.The well defined corner system on the right side of the front face of the Upper Pinnacle. The route may approximate to the summer line Iubhair Grooves.1. 30m Start near the right side of the buttress below an overhanging chimney. Climb the chimney (strenuous with unusual positions) and exit into a ledge below a steep bulging wall.2. 40m Step right to bypass the wall and follow a line of steep turfy steps (poorly protected) to gain the upper left-facing corner system. Climb this to where it funnels into a blank slab on the left.3. 50m Climb the slab, and then continue up the left-facing corner above. Continue in the same line, passing several steep steps, to a good ledge.4. to 5. 100m Continue up the crest of the buttress to where it become as horizontal crest. Finish along this for a further two pitches joining Pinnacle Ridge for its final ropelength.
SGURR NA H-EANCHAINNE, Lower South-East Face:(NN 005 653) Alt 120m South-East facingThe Strand 110m III *. Henry Methold, Davy Austin. 24 Dec 2010.The prominent waterfall forming the lower reaches of the Allt Tairbh (Bull Burn) very occasionally forms an icefall. The metagabbro rock band and the route are visible from Nether Lochaber and located not far above the A861. The route only comes into condition during prolonged and exceptionally cold conditions. From the west side of Corran Ferry proceed 1.5 km north along the road to Keil Farm. Cross a road bridge over the stream and follow the foot path sign through a field and up beside the farm. A short walk up a steep slope leads to the obvious gully.1. 60m A steep start. Climb up the gully and trend right to a narrow corner.2. 50m Climb a short wall on the left to a platform. Continue to another short gully and climb on the left. Walk off right.
GLEN GOUR, Indian Slab Crag:Arrowhead 190m VS 4b *. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 12 Jun 2010.Left of the start of Indian Slab is a slightly lower tier of slabs. Climb cracks up the centre of the lower tier left of a heather ledge to a wide grass rake (30m). Walk a few metres right and climb the narrow slab left of a vertical grassy crack (left of Time Lord) to a grass ledge (30m). Continue by Time Lord or Indian Slab (130m). Mild VS.
Outlaw 70m Severe *. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 12 Jun 2010.Climbs the rib left of the prominent corner of Outrider. The route shares the same start as Outrider but closely follows the left edge of the initial slab throughout instead of moving right towards the tree and corner.
The following route is located on the upper section of the crag up and well right of the finish of Indian Slab. The upper rocks are steeper and run diagonally leftwards up the slope. From the lower slabs they look bow shaped with a vague central grassy bay. A small black cave will be seen in the main mass of rock left of the bay.
Crazy Horse 75m HVS 5a **. Steve Kennedy, Bob Hamilton. 12 Jun 2010.Climbs the slabby wall left of the cave. Start directly below the cave and follow a leftward trending line to the left edge of the cave. From the cave make an exposed traverse horizontally left for a few metres (crux) then follow cracks directly above to a heather ledge at the top of the wall (45m). Finish easily by rocks on the right of a grassy gully (30m). Descend by slopes on the left or abseil the route from the top of the initial wall.
ARDNAMURCHAN, Creag an Fhir-eoin:Fuji 20m E1 5a. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley, Andy Hyslop. 24 Jul 2011.Climb the unprotected scoop right of Stromboli. Pull over on the easy flake, then climb the rounded rib.
Unnamed 14m Severe. Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley. 24 Jul 2011.Bridge up the shallow chimney right of Fuji, then move out right above the steep lower wall to a slanting crack, runners. Step right and climb chickenheads to the top.
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
MEALL BUIDHE:Note: Martin Holland notes a descent of the obvious gully to the left of Eldritch (topo provided) at 125m Grade I with the odd steepish section and some good rock scenery and would make a great easy approach to the summit. Perhaps climbed before, but the name Search Party Gully suggested.
BEINN AN DOTHAIDH, North-East Corrie:Emstead Grooves 105m III. Martin Holland, Pamela Millar. 25th November.Start about 150m up right from the base of Emel Ridge at a turfy slab. This is up and left of a seperate 5m buttress with a square-cut chimney below the main crag.1. 55m Climb the left corner of the slab on turf ledges. Move diagonally right underneath a wall to a platform on the right edge and a belay in a small triangular niche with a roof crack. 2. 50m From the niche traverse left on flakes to gain and climb a stepped groove. Easy ground is reached after 25m and followed up and left to a large block belay on Emel Ridge.
BEINN DORAIN, Creag an Socach:
Note: The Sting received two repeats and was thought VI,6.
Second Coming, Contented Rat Start 45m V,7. Viv Scott, Sam Loveday, Andy Hein. 18 Dec 2010.Takes a system of grooves in the arete left of the ramp of Second Coming. Not a great line but fun turfy mixed climbing similar to other routes on the crag. Start 5m left of entry ramp to Second Coming under a square groove with a crack in the left wall.1. 20m Climb the well protected groove to a steep exit (crux) to a large turf ledge.2. 25m A slim groove (with a wide crack on the left) runs up the arete. Climb this moving rightwards at the top, then go straight up on turf to belay just left of chimney on Second Coming.3. Follow Second Coming to finish. A possible independent exit could trend rightwards up ledge/wall systems but these were black.
BEN UDLAIDH, West Sector:The Crooked Smile 65m VII,7 ***. Greg Boswell, Neil Carnegie. 8 Dec 2010.Start just left of The Smirk below a steep bulge. There is an obvious icy fan hanging down from the lip of the big roof (when in condition).1. 25m Climb the short bulge up and left to a turfy band/break in the steep wall. Traverse the steep wall leftwards (bold) to the thin ice fan. Gain the ice with difficulty (tenuous) and climb the hanging pillar to the cave/ledge.2. 40m Step right out of the cave and delicately climb the steep ice to a large snowy ledge. At the back of the ledge there is another steep ice wall; climb this to its top and finish up the easy ground as for The Smirk.
BEINN LAOIGH, Stob Garbh, North Face:Tarsus 340m III. Sonya McCallum, Andy Nisbet. 19 Dec 2010.The crest of the buttress right of Garbh Couloir (SMCJ 2008). A mixture of some good tricky sections and much easier ground, but better than it looks from below. Start immediately right of Garbh Couloir and follow an icy groove and its snaking shallow continuation to below the steepest section of the buttress. Climb up underneath its left side, then traverse left before pulling through a bulge and breaking back up right on a hanging ramp. Climb the final steep tier by a right-slanting line.
BEINN NARNAIN, Yawning Crag (NN 267 064):This is the crag named as such on O/S Explorer 364, whereas the crag with this name in the guidebook is further east.
Hidden Gangway 140m III,4 **. Andy Bain, Jake Thackrey. 13 Mar 2011.Start at the toe in the centre of the main crag.1. 35m Start up a right-slanting slab and go up to the start of a chimney, then trend right to a cave.2. 35m Climb right and around the corner to a hidden gangway over an obvious gully to a chockstone cave.3. 10m Climb to the top of the cave roof and out right (crux) into an open snowfield to reach a small outcrop wall.4. and 5. 60m Traverse left over the cave roof and up a blocky ridge to the top.
Slanting Slabs 110m II. Andy Bain, Jake Thackrey. 13 Mar 2011.Start 10m left of the main crag at an obvious chockstone cave.1. 55m Start by going through the large chockstone and up rightwards over a slab to a recess.2. 55m Finish up over the recess and out onto an open slope above with small outcrops to the top.
THE BRACK:Mammoth IX,9 ****. Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell. Dec 2010.Strenuous and sustained with perfect protection; a top quality winter route (much better than in summer!). Follow the summer line for two pitches, with the second probably the crux. For pitch 3, go horizontally left for a few metres from the belay and climb a turfy crack, overhanging at its top, to belay below a wide right-trending crack (20m). Follow the crack back into the summer line and follow this to the top.
Elephant Train 125m V,6. Donie O’Sullivan, Tim Marsh, Peter Davies. 9 Jan 2011.A link of the start of Elephant Gully with the finish of Hogwart’s Express gives a worthwhile expedition. Commodious ledges at every belay.1. 20m Climb Elephant Gully and belay on the right wall above the first cave.2. 20m Cross the gully and gain a horizontal ledge leading easily leftwards beneath a large roof. Belay at its end.3. 50m Climb up and left to reach the base of a hanging groove. Make one hard move to get established in the groove and then follow a rising right to left line of weakness for 40m to reach the base of a prominent tapering corner. This corner is pitch 5 of Mainline and where the route joins Hogwart’s Express.4. 25m Climb the corner (crux) and belay beneath the final short wall.5. 10m Climb a diagonal crack through the final wall.
BEINN AN LOCHAIN:Cat’s Gully 350m II. Graeme Kemp, Catherine Zancanaro. 9 Jan 2010.The gully is towards the left end of the east face of Beinn an Lochan, and is easily seen from the A83, especially when heading north. From the summit of the Rest and be Thankful, go past the South end of Loch Restil and aim for the large gully that falls from the southern shoulder of Beinn an Lochan.In its lower section the gully is essentially a steep water course; however, as height is gained, it becomes steeper and numerous short ice steps are encountered. Escape to either side is straightforward at this stage. Higher, the gully becomes steeper and more enclosed. At a narrowing, approximately 50m below the top, an awkward chimney is bypassed by a traverse right then back left on ice and frozen turf. The route then continues, without difficulty, up the gully which opens out as it reaches the broad south ridge of the mountain.
Riding the Storm 70m VII,7. Iain Small, Simon Richardson. 9 Jan 2011.The left-hand of two prominent crack systems cutting the front face of the Heart of Darkness buttress.1. 25m Climb the easy first 10m of Heart of Darkness to the niche. From its bottom left side, climb an awkward hanging chimney-slot to a sloping ledge, then continue over a chokestone and up a steep left-facing corner to exit onto a broad turfy ledge.2. 45m Continue in the same line up a left-facing corner-ramp to reach a narrow ledge. Traverse left along this above Saxifrage Gully until it is possible to break out right up a steep crack. This leads to easier turfy ground and the top of the buttress.
BEN LOMOND, A Buttress:Flake Dance 90m IV,5 *. Sonya McCallum, Andy Nisbet. 18 Dec 2010.A line up the left side of A Buttress. Start below the easiest line leading up left to a first terrace. Follow this, then move up right and back left to break through a steep wall (easier further left). Take a ramp leading up right (50m). Continue up the ramp and return left to below a steep unavoidable band. Climb this via a flake system, then continue left and right on turf to the top, joining Pole Dance at the very top (40m).Note: Although this route and two recent ones are described as being on A Buttress, by the original nomenclature they are probably on the right side of B Buttress. But from a climbing point of view, it makes sense to rename this area as A Buttress.
C Buttress:Lomond Buttress 100m III,4. Ewan Olivarius, Fraser Hughes. 27 Nov 2010.Approximately 15m left of Lomond Corner is a short narrow chimney.1. 50m Climb this to reach a small cave (possible belay). Traverse rightwards until a delicate move gains a right-facing corner. Climb this with interest, then move up and left to belay.2. 50m Follow a ramp up and left to easier ground.
Coille Ramp 80m II. Sonya McCallum, Andy Nisbet. 18 Dec 2010.A prominent left-slanting ramp, starting about 25m left of Lomond Corner, was climbed in two pitches and leads to the cliff-top.
BEINN EUNAICH:Black Shock 170m V,5. Roger Everett, Simon Richardson. 28 Nov 2010.The prominent fault-line running up left and diverging from The Black Shoot.1. 50m Start 20m left of The Black Shoot and climb steep vegetation interspersed with a couple of rock steps, to the start of the fault. Belay on small trees.2. 30m Traverse under the fault and enter it from the left. Climb up to a small cave and exit steeply left to a ledge.3. 40m Continue up the line of the fault via a couple of steep walls and continue up easier ground to a terrace.4. 50m Finish up the dwindling fault-line over a series of steep steps to reach the broad terrace at the top of the buttress.
Eas Eunaich 80m IV,4. Jim Graham, Iain MacCallum. 21 Dec 2010.At NN 140 307. A line on the left-hand side which was pretty thin but reasonably solid (tied-off ice screws) – 30m, 50m. The right-hand side of the fall was steeper and would give a good climb with less water running behind it. Named No Country for Old Men.
GLEN OGLE:Better As a Fry Up 40m III. Craig Smith, Alan Gray. 9-Jan 2011.Ascend an open icy gully approx 100m south of a boulder field on the west side of Glen Ogle above Glenogle Farm. NN 57545 25382.
Direct Finish 20m V,5. Craig Smith, Andrew Fulton. 9 Jan 2011.Halfway up Better As a Fry Up, climb the icicle formed on the left wall direct.
BEN LAWERS, Creag an Fhithich:Note: John Proctor & Chris Banks climbed an icefall set apart at the left-hand side of the crag on 5 Feb 2011 - Consolation Prize 7m IV,4.
MEALL GHAORDAIDH, Creag Laoghain:Note: The big gully left of No Pain Laoghain (SMCJ 2010) was climbed by Iain Thow on 9 Apr 1982 at Grade I.
MEALL NAN TARMACHAN, Cam Chreag:Banshee Gully 100m I/II. Martin Holland, Martin Campbell. 20 Feb 2011.Follows a left to right-trending gully/ramp line across the buttress immediately right of Carlin’s Buttress with one narrow steepening on the first pitch and a ramp-line before joining the exit slopes of the right-bounding gully. Warthogs required for belays.
ARRAN
COIRE NAM FUARAN:Lies at the head of Glen Sannox to the south-west of the saddle. Approach either from Glen Sannox, or from the ridge above via an easy gully 300m north-east of North Goatfell. Descent from either route is easiest down Coire Lan to Corrie.
Naanaarpoq 450m II/III. Robin Barnden. 5 Dec 2010.A bastion at the left end of the corrie wall is split by a deep cleft. The route starts at an icefall that emerges over rocky slabs beneath the cleft. Climb the ice to enter the cleft and follow a series of snow and ice steps. At the back of the cleft trend right over icy ramps and a further short pitch to emerge on open snowslopes above. Climb snow and turf to the ridge and emerge about 200m SW of Mullach Buidhe summit. The name is an Inuit word meaning 'taking extravagant pleasure in being alive'.
Note: About 100m to the north of this route is a pleasant gully (initially another cleft) that maintains a direct line at a steady angle right to the ridge. It is about 400m Grade II, with potentially deep snow and a few small ice steps. Robin Barnden, 2010.
LOWLAND OUTCROPS
GLASGOW AREA, Auchinstarry:Plumline Arete 7m E3 6a. Brendan Croft. 11 Jul 2011.An eliminate. Climb the clean arete between the start of Promontory Direct and Plumline Crack, avoiding the adjacent routes. Protected by side-runners in Promontory Direct. The crux is getting your left foot on to a large hold on the arete.
Neilston Quarry:(NS 474 558) South-West facingA write-up by Malcolm Nicolson.A small quartz dolerite quarry, long disused, with a sunny sheltered aspect. It provides pleasant climbing, mostly in the lower grades, on good rock for the most part, and is very popular. Dries quickly but the ground at the base of the cliff can become waterlogged. There are two buttresses, a more broken face to the left and steeper cracks and grooves to the right. Two hawthorn trees grow below the left buttress; a third stands where the two buttresses meet.
Left Buttress:The rocks to the left of, and above, the first tree give scruffy scrambling at about Moderate or Difficult depending on the line taken. Not very well protected, probably best top-roped or soloed, if climbed at all.
The line that makes the best use of the left buttress is:
Flake Route 15m Very Difficult.Start up a corner just right of the first tree and then follow an indefinite flake line right across the face to a prominent recess. Continue right with one awkward well-protected move.
Pinkerton’s Corner 10m Very Difficult.Just to the right of the second tree is a bouldery slab, with a grassy grove to its left. Climb the slab to a platform and then the open corner above.
Pinkerton’s Slab 10m Severe.Gain the platform by the groove to the right of the boulder and continue up thin parallel cracks in the slab above.
Corner Arete 10m Hard Severe.Climb the broad arete between Pinkerton’s Slab and Kirsteen’s Crack.
Kirsteen’s Crack 10m Very Difficult *.Climb cracks in the left wall of the deep V shaped recess, 7m to the right of the second tree.
Andy’s Gash 10m Very Severe 4b.Climb into the V shaped recess and take the overhang on its right wall, either direct or slightly right.
Below the overhang a thin finger crack leads to the right from the recess, above the boulder of Polish Direct. It is often damp but can give a pleasant short climb at Mild Severe.
Polish Direct 3m Font 4.A short boulder problem just left of the third tree. Start left and move up right.
The rocks to the right of the third tree can be climbed at Moderate and are sometimes used in descent.
Right Buttress:Juggy Crack 10m Very Difficult.Go up an easy ramp and make a committing move onto to the cracked slab on the right side of the obvious tower.
The overhanging arete between Juggy Crack and Strawberry Direct has been climbed at 6a/b.
Strawberry Direct 10m E2 6a.Steep and dynamic climbing up the overhanging left wall of Strawberry Crack with side runners in that route.
Strawberry Crack 10m Severe **.The fine curving crack below the tower.
Spiney Boulder 10m Very Difficult.Either start at the front of the right wall of Strawberry Crack and move up and right over a bulge, or climb the shallow grove 1m to the right and finish as for Strawberry Crack.
Easy Gully 10m Difficult.The grassy groove 1m right of Spiney Boulder from Strawberry Crack, finishing right, as for Strawberry Crack, or left as for Y-Crack.
B.N.I. 5m Severe.The small black wall left of Easy Gully give a harder alternative start to Broken Arete.
Broken Arete 10m Very Difficult.The shattered arete left of Easy Gully. The slab directly above is straightforward but unprotected. A safer line is available a couple of metres right.
Y-Crack 10m Very Difficult.The crack 1m left of Broken Arete. Finish right.
Stephen Slab 5m Hard Severe.The short reddish wall gives a contrived alternative start to Y-Crack or Crack Corner.
Crack Corner 10m Very Difficult.Climb a right-slanting groove, left of a stepped overhang. At 4m move left toward the finish of Y-Crack.
Polish Hangover 10m Hard Severe.Climb the initial stepped overhang between Crack Corner and Intrusion Line. Either finish up the broad arete to the left of the grassy upper grove of Intrusion Line (Severe) or step left and go up the sharp arete between Intrusion Line and Punk Rock (VS 4b).
Intrusion Line 10m Very Difficult *.The prominent left-curving groove and crack left of a steep wall.
Punk Rock 15m HVS 5b *.Follow Intrusion Line until it is possible to move right to a crack. Climb the wall above, past an in-situ nut.
Curving Crack 15m HVS 5a *.Climb the long left-curving crack, finishing just right of Punk Rock.
Twisted 12m E3 5c *.The steep twisted slab right of Curving Crack is climbed to poor protection at half-height. Step left to gain slopers and sidepulls on the impressive rounded and tiered overhang.
Willie’s Route 15m Severe **.Climb the broken crack to the right of the slab of Twisted, with an awkward move at 4m. Finish right or straight up.
Willie’s Route Variation E2 6a.Climb the white speckled slab between Willie’s Route and Fornication, with side runners in either.
Fornication 15m HVS 5a.Climb the cracks that form the left edge of the white speckled slab, up a broken rib.
Hyper-reality 15m VS 4b.The undercut slabby wall immediately right of Fornication. A scoop leads to an overlap, followed by the wall above and a bulge (crux) which can taken directly.
Grassy Crack 15m Severe.Right of Hyper-reality, two converging cracks lead to an overhang. Climb either or both, turn the overhang on the left and climb the broken crack.
Jig-Saw Jive 15m Very Difficult.The crack to the right of Grassy Crack, passing the overhang of that route on the right. Finish sharp left.
Whitehorse Rib 15m Hard Severe 4b.Right of Jig-Saw Jive is an undercut blunt rib. Gain the slabby rib and smear upwards. No protection throughout. Finish left as for Jig-Saw Jive.
The rocks to the right of Whitehorse Rib have been climbed but are unattractive. The obvious crack 5m left of the descent path is Peg-Leg, an old artificial route, which gives a problem, Font 5.
GALLOWAY HILLS, THE MERRICK, Black Gairy:Tae a Moose 75m III. Andrew Fraser, Ian Magill. 5 Dec 2010.About 100m down and left of the main icefall of Fat Triplet is a wider icefall. Climb this to easier ground (45m). On the tier above is a steep boss of ice, which is turned on the left, then continue up shallow gully to finish (30m).
A Fridge Too Far 60m III,4. Andrew Fraser, Ian Magill. 5 Dec 2010.This is the buttress right of the Triplets, climbed on frozen turf. Start at the left toe of the buttress, just left of some ice. Climb turf, moving up left into a shallow chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Up this, and steep ground above to easier ground then traverse 6m left into the wide snowy gully in the centre of the buttress (30m). Take the left branch of this and continue up easy ground to the top (30m).
MULLWARCHAR, Yellow Tomach:(NX 462 883) Alt 375m East facingA rarely visited and very broken crag, one for lovers of Gallwegian esoterica! However the rock is clean and quick to dry where it isn’t seeping and the outlook is delightful. It lies on the east face of Hoodens Hill.
Russet Wall:This small brown square wall lies at the bottom left corner of the cliffs. Descent is tricky.
Tomach or not Tomach? 18m Severe 4b. Stephen Reid, Andrew Fraser. 11 Oct 2010.The rather grassy left arete and slabs above.
Gala Performance 18m HVS 5a. Stephen Reid, Andrew Fraser. 11 Oct 2010.The major crack from the left to a ledge. Follow the crack above, just right of a corner, to easy slabs.
White Slab:The obvious white slab in the centre of the crag and some way above a large tree is best gained by a rising traverse from the foot of Russet Wall.
Yellow Belly 36m VS. Andrew Fraser, Stephen Reid. 11 Oct 2010.1. 26m 4c Climb cracks up the centre of the slab exiting rightwards.2. 10m 4b The wide crack just to the right is followed by blocks.
The Main Slab Area:The most obvious and largest feature lies towards the right side of the crag. Unfortunately much of the Main Slab itself is slow to dry.
The Auld Alliance 45m HVS 5a. Stephen Reid, Andrew Fraser. 3 Sep 2010.A pleasant climb with good protection, up the right side of the Main Slab. It starts up the brown streak in the middle of the slabs, then goes right of this at the overlap. Start just right of centre below a small blocky prow. This is about 15m directly blow the prominent diagonal break that the climb takes through the main overlap. Climb up to the prow and step on to it from the left. Make hard moves directly up cracks in the slab above and pull on to a narrow terrace. Follow a diagonal finger crack up leftwards and step back right through the overlap. Climb the right edge of the slab above to an impasse and step up and right to a small grass ledge. Follow the blocky rib on the right to a final small smooth slab and go straight up this.
No Country for Old Men 43m E1 *. Andrew Fraser, Stephen Reid. 3 Sep 2010.A good and well protected route aiming for the obvious crack which splits a block high up at the right side of this area. Start 20m right of the Main Slab at a grassy chimney formed by a large pyramid shaped block.1. 35m 5a Go easily up the chimney to a terrace (possible belay). Climb the groove in the wall above to an awkward finish and continue up slabs and grass to the foot of a fine crack in the headwall.2. 8m 5b Climb the crack to a ledge. Continue up the continuation crack with increasing difficulty and exit rightwards to a huge block.
The Top Tier:The long broken final tier is devoid of obvious lines and can be climbed or not climbed at all just about anywhere. So far one route has been done.
Doonward Bound 27m VS 4c. Andrew Fraser, Stephen Reid. 11 Oct 2011.Start on the right, on the left edge of some slabs and above a short slab. Climb a slab, then another harder slab lying between a rib on the left and an undercut crack on the right. On reaching easier ground, traverse left for 3m and finish leftward up the juggy headwall.
The Tauchers, Lower Foresters’:This tiny, rather pink, buttress lies low down on the far left of the climbable rock.
Weasley Recognised 12m HVS 5a. James Kinnaird, Stephen Reid. 30 Aug 2010.On the left side are three thin cracks; start under the right-hand one. Move up to under a bulge and traverse right to a good spike, which enables an awkward pull up onto a ledge. Continue more easily up the buttress above, first left then right, to the top.
Stoatally Different 12m E1 5b Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 30 Aug 2010.On the right side of the buttress is a vertical crack with a left-slanting crack to its left. Gain and climb the vertical crack.
Upper Foresters’:A similar sized buttress which lies high up on the far left of the climbable rock, some 200m above the lower buttress. Though only short, the climbs are on superb clean granite and are worth doing. It can be reached quite quickly by following goat tracks well to the left of the corrie.
Galloway Chainsaw Massacre 12m HVS 5a *. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 27 Aug 2010.Fine thought-provoking climbing up the left-hand crack-line on the main wall, with an airy step left to top out. Watch out for the superb hidden wire just when you most need it. At the lower end of the grade.
Harvester 12m HVS 5a *. James Kinnaird, Stephen Reid. 27 Aug 2010.The crack-line 2m to the right is hard to start but soon eases off.
The Woodlanders 14m VS 5a *. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 27 Aug 2010.Another crack-line lies 2m right. Make a hard start up this to gain a slim ledge. Move up and rightwards to a sloping gangway and go left up this, then follow jugs up the wall to the top.
Strip the Conifer 15m E1 5b *. James Kinnaird, Stephen Reid. 27 Aug 2010.
Yet another crack-line 2m right leads to a shallow scoop. Start just left of this and climb the wall, making desperate moves up left to gain decent footholds. Climb the cracked pillar, exiting rightwards to a sloping gangway and step right again to finish up a wall on good holds.
Shiver Me Timbers 15m HVS 5a *. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 27 Aug 2010.On the right side of the main wall is a large scoop system with twin exits. Climb a short steep wall to heather, then climb the left side of the scoop to gain a shallow groove, stepping left at its top. Move up and step right to gain easier ground.
The Tiers:The Covenanters 35m HVS 5a *. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 16 Sep 2010.An enjoyable and well protected route up the slab and cracked headwall up to the left of the white slab. Climb a rib to reach the base of the slab. Step onto the slab from the left and reach a left-slanting diagonal crack. Follow this until it is to where it bends left and climb straight up to the crack splitting the headwall which is followed to the top.
Above this route is a short wall that is easily climbed via cracks (Difficult) and a short way above this a wall with an obvious left-slanting groove in it.
Wee Beastie 20m HVS 5b. James Kinnaird, Stephen Reid. 16 Sep 2010.A short wall leads to a terrace. Struggle up the left-slanting groove in the buttress above.
Where the Eagle Soars 45m VS. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 16 Aug 2010.Start above the first short wall of Tiers before Bedtime and 6m left of the small perched boulder.1. 35m 4c Climb up the right side of a large detached block and then a short wall to a terrace. Continue up the obvious left-facing corner above, which is not without interest. The wall just left of the corner has also been climbed.2. 15m 4b On the left side of the headwall is a thin crack, just left of the steps of Tiers before Bedtime. Climb this direct.
Divine Interference 45m VS. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 16 Sep 2010.Start 20m down and right of the huge boulder at a crack with flakes at the left end of a clean rough barrel shaped wall.1. 12m 4c Gain the flakes from the left and pull up onto a slab which is climbed with interest to a huge thread on the left.2. 18m 4b Step onto the boulder and traverse right over grass to the leftmost of three cracks. Climb this, and a short wall just left of a grassy groove, to below a cracked arete.3. 15m 4c Climb the arete to a ledge and pull over a bulge to gain the final crack, which is the left side of a huge flake.
DUNGEON HILL, Dungeon of Buchan, Dungeon Buttress:Dauntless Heart 35m E1. Stephen Venables, Stephen Reid. 14 Jul 2011.An unbalanced eliminate.1. 20m 5b Climb the awkward dirty cracks between Battle Axe and Carrick Corner to a junction with the former. Move up left to a ledge and belay at a large balanced block at its left end.2. 15m 4a The delightful pink wall above the spike leads straight to the top.
CRAIGNAW, The Point of the Snibe, The Seven Pillars:Goatee 10m Very Difficult. Stephen Reid, James Kinnaird. 21 Apr 2011.Follow the rightmost crack in the sixth pillar to a ledge, then the easy angled broken groove.
Wisdom Wall:The Young Pretender 12m HVS 5b. James Kinnaird, Stephen Reid. 21 Apr 2011.5m right of Long Tall Sally are twin horizontal cracks. Finger traverse the upper one leftwards with difficulty to gain a ledge, pull up and traverse back right on heather to a finger flake that splits the upper buttress - finish up this.
CAIRNSMORE OF FLEET, Clints of the Spout:Mulled Wine 100m III,3 *. Linda Biggar, John Biggar, C.Hossack. 23 Dec 2010.A parallel line of less continuous ice smears about 20m right of Smear Test. The top ice-fall is quite well hidden and gives a very fine pitch. Scramble up and right from the start of Smear Test to start.
RHINNS OF KELLS, Milldown:Fridge Magnate 125m III. Andrew Fraser, Ian Magill. 11 Jan 2011.This climbs the buttress right of the lower section of Better Gully, then continues to climb the crag high on the right side of the gully. At the bottom of the right side of this buttress is a steep, wide wall which slopes up left. Start at the left end of this and follow a shallow gully over steps (45m). Above, take the central of three grooves to easier ground then continue slightly rightwards for 15m to climb an icefall (50m). A walk of 80m up leftwards leads to the upper tier. This is climbed by following the iciest ramp (bounded by a steep left wall and in the middle of the crag), finishing to the right (30m).
THE BORDERS, Moffat:Note: An ascent of Spoon Burn, as marked on the OS map in Moffat Dale, by Jim Lawrence, Simon Mortlock & Jonathan Mortlock on 27 Dec 2010. Start from the road just beyond Backhope and before Carrifan on the north side of the valley from approx NT 154 105. It provided an interesting gorge with the stream bed frozen well enough to walk on from the road apart from a few weak spots..A series of pitches up to 5m and then a larger 6m pitch with water flowing behind. Grade I/II.
STIRLING AREA, Cambusbarron, Fourth Quarry:Sticky Willows 20m E2 5c. Keith Alexander, Mark Atkins. 17 Jul 2011.Left of The Rock of Crack and Confessions of a Speed Freak, is a short offwidth leading to a striking left-arching crack, which finishes at a slabby ledge on the left. Cut left, then back right across easy but loose terrain to finish. Low in the grade and well protected, but on spooky rock, and with a pretty awkward crux.
North Third, Birds & Bees Buttress:Rockhopper Rib 20m E3 5c *. Keith Alexander, Mark Atkins. 22 Jul 2011.The rib immediately left of the corner of Beeline. Climb the shallow, slightly flaring crack, stepping round the right-hand corner to a thin ledge about halfway before pulling back left to continue up the rib, finishing to the left at the top.
FIFE, The Hawcraig:Short Circuit 25m VS 4c/5a **. Charlie Mackie, Sarah Kelly, Charlie Seviour, Kirsty Rowe. Oct 2010.In between Saki and Slack Alice. Start up Saki for 5m. Then head out right to the arete. The crux is safe moving from the slot on the arete to getting established up into the vertical finger crack. Continue up the crack to the top rejoining the left side of the arete higher up.
Popeye 20m E1 5a *. Sonya Drummond, Melanie Hayes. 21 Aug 2010.This is between Brutus and Torment. Climb the corner underneath the roof, then pull through the roof itself and onto a technical slab on the left. Boldly climb the headwall above to the top.
Limekilns:Scary Doodle 12m E5 6b. Charlie Mackie. 5 Jun 2011.A line between The Charleston and The Ivy League. Start about 4m right of the left arete. Make a hard move to a T-shaped slot. Move right along a hand ledge before moving straight up, just left of the pod on The Ivy League. Make crux moves through some crimps on the face till the good break at two-thirds height. Follow another hand ramp up and left to the top break, before finishing just right of the arete at the top and as for The Charleston for the last 2m.
EDINBURGH AREA, Salisbury Crags:Cat Nick Arete 30m V,4. Harry Holmes, John Proctor. 29 Nov 2010.As for the summer route.
Blackford Quarry:Good Craic 11m Severe 4c. Peter McAuley, Louise Kernaghan. 28 Apr 2011.An east facing crack on the back of the quarry pinnacle. A small path leads around the back of the pinnacle where two cracks join to form a main right-slanting hand crack. Start up the right-hand side crack (or the left-hand side crack for an easier variation). The insides of the cracks are a little too smooth for even the best of cam placements.
FASTCASTLE AREA, Midden Craig:Think Twice 10m HVS 4b. Ross Jones, John Sanders. 11 Sep 2010.Just south of the main crag is a fin of rock which forms a corner, almost a chimney. Climb the large corner on poor rock.
