Oregon City High School TEXTILESmsvetterochs.weebly.com/uploads/4/0/3/8/40384243/textile... ·...

Oregon City High School

TEXTILES Sample Notebook: Level 1

Instructed by Jayne Vet ter

r

Nat ional FACS STANDARDS for : Text i le s , Fashion & Appare l 16.4.1 Demonstrate professional skills in using a variety of equipment, tools, and supplies for fashion, apparel, and

textile construction, alteration, and repair. 16.4.3 Use appropriate industry products and materials for cleaning, pressing, and finishing textile, apparel, and

fashion products. 16.4.5 Demonstrate basic skills for producing and altering textile products and apparel.

TEXTILE 1: Sample Technique Self-Assessment

All samples will be demonstrated by the teacher or advanced student. Examples of each sample are available for viewing.

Repeat demonstrations and additional assistance are available during after school open lab.

Name _____________________________ Period ___

After reading each target and constructing the sample, circle the number where you feel your current level of proficiency fits onto the scale.

A Jayne Vetter Creation - 2014

SAMPLE TECHNIQUE

NAME

Date Due: 0 = not proficient, 1 = does not meet, 2 = nearly meets, 3 = meets,

4 = exceeds Cut 0 1 2 3 4

Interface 0 1 2 3 4

Mark 0 1 2 3 4

Seam 0 1 2 3 4

Trim 0 1 2 3 4

Finish 0 1 2 3 4

Waistline Casing

0 1 2 3 4

Machine Hem 0 1 2 3 4

Staystitch 0 1 2 3 4

Grade 0 1 2 3 4

Clip 0 1 2 3 4

Notch 0 1 2 3 4

Baste 0 1 2 3 4

Gather 0 1 2 3 4

Dart 0 1 2 3 4

Pleat 0 1 2 3 4

Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Cut/Interface/Mark Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample 4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper.

CUTTING: Use bent-handle shears. Cut with long, even strokes through center of single cutting line. Cut all notches outward. Cut double and triple notches together with a continuous edge across top as indicated by printed line.

Cut/Interface/Mark RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic

Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE TECHNIQUE 1 2 3 4

Cutting Fabric &

Interfacing

Applied concepts inaccurately. Notch/es missing and/or cut into seam allowance.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Slight inaccuracies in cutting; crooked, jagged, etc. Forgot to mark notches.

Applied concept correctly. Cutting layout follows grain or fold, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across form point to point, away from seam allowance.

Nailed it! Applied the concept with exemplary precision.

Apply Fusible

Interfacing

Applied concept incorrectly. Iron fusible interfacing to right side of fabric

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Partially ironed fusible interfacing to wrong side of fabric.

Applied concept correctly. Layer fabric wrong side up, interfacing glue side down and finish with a press cloth over the interfacing. Press with and up down motion to prevent interfacing from sliding off


Mark Pattern

Symbols

Applied concept incorrectly. Markings show on right side of fabric.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Markings inaccurate and/or difficult to see on the wrong side of the fabric.

Applied concept correctly. All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines

indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use cross hatches (X’s) to indicate pattern dots.


A Jayne Vetter Creation – 2014

Construction markings need to be transferred to the WRONG side of fabric so markings will be visible for placement and sewing. Choose an appropriate marking tool for the color and type of fabric you will be using.

Interfacing is a common term for a variety of materials used on the unseen back side or "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing. Interfacings can be used to stiffen or add body tofabric, such as the interfacing used in shirt collars; to strengthen a certain area of the fabric, for instance where buttonholes will be sewn; or to keep fabrics, particularly knit fabrics, from stretching out of shape. Interfacings come in a variety of weights and stiffness to suit different purposes. Most modern interfacings are fusible, made to be ironed.

Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Overedge Finished Seam Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample 4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper.

(A) SEAM: A seam is created when two or more pieces of fabric are sewn, usually, right sides together. The seam allowance is the space between the stitched seam and the raw edge of the fabric. Many commercial pattern companies have agreed upon a standard 5/8" seam allowance, however it does vary with printed patterns - make sure you check first before beginning a project!

(B) TRIM: Cut away both layers of half the width of the seam allowance. Do this to reduce the width of the seam allowance and prepare the raw edge to be finished.

(C) OVEREGE FINISH: Used to strengthen the seam and keep it from fraying. To create a mock serged seam choose a zigzag stitch and sew over the raw edge by placing the trimmed edge in front of the needle.

PRESS: Iron finished seam allowance to one side. Make sure iron setting is appropriate for fiber content.

Using an iron in a press/pick up/move/press/... pattern. Pressing is not moving back and forth on fabric with the iron. Pressing is done "as you go" while creating a garment.

A B C


Overedge Seam RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE

TECHNIQUE 1 2 3 4

Seam

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine tension & threading incorrect. Not right sides together. Seam allowance not 5/8”. Didn’t Backstitch. Threads not clipped.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Seam allowance uneven by more than 1/8” in many locations. Backstitched only one end of seam. Some threads not clipped

Applied concept correctly. Formed with care. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8”, stitching is close to 5/8” from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped.


Trim

Applied concept incorrectly. Not between ¼” – 3/8”

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Unevenly cut.

Applied concept correctly. Cut both sides of entire seam allowance at once to about half (1/4” – 3/8”) its width.


Overedge

Finish (mock serge)

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine tension & threading incorrect. Zigzag stitch crosses over seamline and/or misses trimmed edge.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Zigzag stitch not centered over trimmed edge. Didn’t clip threads.

Applied concept correctly. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Use the combination straight and zigzag stitch, #05. Line up the trimmed edge under the middle of the presser foot. The zigzag stitch goes over the trimmed edge. Clip threads.


Press

Applied concept incorrectly.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies.

Press seam to one side Nailed it! Applied the concept with exemplary precision.

Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Waistline Casing Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample

4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. A casing is a fabric “tunnel” made to enclose a drawstring or elastic, typically used around the waistline. When the elastic or drawstring is drawn in, the effect is similar to that of a conventional waistline joining or waistband, but far easier to construct. Waistline casings are practical because they can be adjusted easily to changes in waist measurement. Replacement of drawstring or elastic is equally simple. All casings should be ¼” wider than the elastic or drawstring they are to enclose, to allow for its free movement through the fabric tunnel.

A fold-down casing is formed by turning a portion of the fabric at the garment edge to the inside and stitching in place. This type of casing is ideal for pull-on pants and skirts, especially those made of knit fabrics.

(A) To make the casing, turn raw edge to wrong side ¼”, pin & press. Turn again to

wrong side ¼” wider than the width of elastic and/or drawstring, pin & press. (B) Machine stitch lower edge of casing in place. Leave a 1” opening at center back seam for threading elastic or drawstring, backstitch to secure size of opening. (C) Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic, secure other end to garment so it will

not be pulled through the casing as the pin is worked around the waistline. Take care not to twist the elastic.

(D) To join ends of elastic, first overlap them ½” and pin. Stitch several rows on the over- lapped area, for strength. Pull joined ends inside casing. Close the opening by edgestitching. Keep area flat by stretching the elastic slightly as you sew. Take care not to catch the elastic in the stitching.


Waistline Casing RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE

TECHNIQUE 1 2 3 4

Casing

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine incorrectly threaded. Turned to right side. Raw edge not turned under. Measurements off more than ¼” too wide or too small. Stitching broken or more than ¼” away from folded edge.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Measurements and/or stitching uneven. Holes and/or tucks.

Applied concept correctly. Turn & pin garment edge to the wrong side ¼” and press. Turn & pin casing to the wrong side 1” (1/4” wider than width of elastic or drawstring) and press. Stitch lower edge of casing, close to fold, leaving a small (1”) opening at seam, backstitch. Clip threads.


Elastic

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine incorrectly threaded. Turned to right side. Raw edge not turned under. Stitching broken or more than ¼” away from folded edge.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Stitching uneven. Holes and/or tucks.

Applied concept correctly. Insert elastic with a safety pin. Overlap ends ½”, make sure elastic is not twisted. Stitch elastic securely. Pull joined ends inside casing. Close the opening by edgestitching, secure with backstitching. Clip threads.


Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Staystitching Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample

4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. What is stay-stitching? Stay-stitching is a line of straight stitching that prevents curved or bias edges, such as necklines, shoulders and waistlines, from stretching out of shape as they are handled during sewing and pressing. Where should I do it? Stay-stitch 1/8” inside of the seam allowance, between the seam line and the cut edge. On a standard 5/8” seam allowance, this distance is ½” from the cut edge. Do I have to remove the stay-stitching after I sew the seam? No. Stay-stitching remains in the garment as a permanent aid to prevent stretching and buckling. Because it is in the seam allowance between the seam line and the cut edge, it will be invisible on the finished garment.


Staystitch RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE

TECHNIQUE 1 2 3 4

Cutting Applied concepts inaccurately. Notch/es missing and/or cut into seam allowance.




Staystitch Applied concept incorrectly. Machine incorrectly threaded. Used a double layer of fabric. Stitched outward curve. Seam allowance greater than ½”. Cut pattern out correctly.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Used an uneven 1/8” -5/8” seam allowance on the raw edge of the inward curve of a single layer of fabric.

Applied concept correctly. Completed construction on the inward curved raw edge of a single layer of fabric. Using a regular stitch length at ½” (1/8” inside the seam allowance), stitch with the grain whenever possible, clip threads.


Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Narrow Curved Machine Hem

Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample 4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper.

Sewing a hem by machine – The major assets of machine hems are speed and extra sturdiness. They can also provide a decorative touch, and are especially appropriate if topstitching is part of the design. Machine stitches are more casual on a hem than hand stitches, so careful consideration should be given to their suitability for the garment.

5/8”

3/8”

1/4”


Narrow Curved Machine Hem RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic

Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds 1 2 3 4

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine incorrectly threaded. Raw edge shows. Not turned under twice. Stitching not at inner fold. Stitching crooked. Many tucks.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Folded edge wider than 3/8”. Tucks. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Stitching not close to inner fold.

Applied concept correctly. Mark ¼” from raw edge of hem on wrong side of fabric. Fold under along markings to the wrong side, fold under again 3/8” (5/8” total). Pin & Press. With and average stitch length and correct tension stitch close to the inner folded edge. Press


Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Grading/Clipping/Notching Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample

4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper.

Clipping and Notching is used on curved seams to allow them to lie smooth. Clips are slits cut into the seam allowance of concave, or inward, curves that permit the edges to spread. (With either technique, hold scissor points just short of seamline to avoid cutting past stitching.) Notches are wedges cut from seam allowance of convex, or outward, curves; space opened by removal of fabric lets edge draw in. Grading is used to reduce bulk, when the seam allowance is going to be sandwiched between two layer of fabric. The seam allowance that lies closest to the body is trimmed shorter.

Grade/Clip/Notch RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic


Cutting





Seam

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine tension & threading incorrect. Not right sides together. Seam allowance not 5/8”. Didn’t Backstitch. Threads not clipped

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Seam allowance uneven by more than 1/8” in many locations. Backstitched only one end of seam. Some threads not clipped

Applied concept correctly. Formed with care. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8”, stitching is close to 5/8” from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped.


Grade

Applied concept incorrectly (trimmed) or didn’t apply.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Unevenly cut, cut part of other layer and/or cut too close to seam allowance.

Applied concept correctly. Accurately cut & stitched. GRADE (also called Layer) seams (1/4”).



Clip

Applied concept incorrectly (notched) or didn’t apply.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Didn’t clip through both layers of seam allowance. Clipped stitching line or didn’t clip close enough to stitching.

Applied concept correctly. Slits cut from seam allowance of the concave or inward curve.


Notch

Applied concept incorrectly (clipped) or didn’t apply.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Didn’t notch both layers of seam allowance. Notches cut stitching line or didn’t cut notches close enough to stitching.

Applied concept correctly. Wedges cut from seam allowance of convex or outward curve.


Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Basting & Gathering Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample

4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Basting – Machine basting is a long straight stitch used to hold fabric layers together during fitting or permanent machine stitching. General gathering information – Gathering is the process of drawing a given amount of fabric into a predetermined, smaller area, along one or several stitching lines, to create soft, even folds. Fabric is usually gathered to one half or one-third the original width; the effect may be soft and drapey or crisp and billowy, depending on the fabric. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs, or yoke, or as ruffles.

Baste 1/2” from raw edge Baste 3/4” from raw edge Pull to Ruffle (gather)


Baste/Gather RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic


Baste

Applied concept incorrectly. Machine incorrectly threaded.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Incorrect or uneven seam allowances. Backstitched and/or cut threads.

Applied concept correctly. Two even rows of basting, spaced ¼” apart. The first row beginning ½” from raw edge of fabric. Don’t backstitch, leave threads for pulling. .


Gather

Applied concept incorrectly. Threads not pulled or broke while pulling.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Threads not pulled simultaneously and/or not to ½ the original width.

Applied concept correctly. Threads from each row of one side of fabric, pulled simultaneously to gather evenly to ½ the original width.


Name _____________________________ Date _________ Period ___

Darts & Pleats Directions: 1. View Demonstration & Example 2. Review rubric 3. Complete sample

4. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Darts are an essential part of garment construction because they allow flat fabric to take on a shape that will fit the body well. A dart is a folded wedge of fabric that is tapered and stitched down to give shape to a garment. There are two main components of a dart: the point, also known as the apex, and the legs, which start at the widest part of the dart. The dart legs are the two lines that are brought together to create the fold of fabric that is stitched. Darts need to be sewn in the correct direction, from the widest point of the legs to the apex, to ensure they lay flat and press well. Darts are found primarily in women’s clothing and are meant to fit the contours of the body in a flattering way. They serve a functional purpose first and foremost, but darts can also create style lines in a garment to accentuate and enhance a design. Pleats are fold in fabric that are either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the top edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness.


Dart/Pleat RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE

TECHNIQUE 1 2 3 4

Cutting





Mark Pattern

Symbols

Applied concept incorrectly. Markings show on right side of fabric.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Markings inaccurate and/or difficult to see on the wrong side of the fabric.

Applied concept correctly. All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines

indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use cross hatches (X’s) to indicate pattern dots.



Dart

Many inaccuracies. Notch missing and/or cut into seam allowance. Machine incorrectly threaded.

Slight inaccuracies in cutting; crooked, jagged, etc. Notch inaccurately cut. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Dart stitching crooked, dart length uneven, backstitched at point, didn’t press .

Applied concept correctly. Accurately cut & mark dart. Sew dart right sides together, using an average stitch length & correct tension. Taper gradually to a point. Hand knot threads, cut threads, press.


Pleat


Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Pleat size and/or type inaccurate.

Applied concept correctly. Accurately mark pleats. Crease fabric along the solid line, press lightly and remove the pin. Bring the pressed edge to meet the broken line and pin the box or inverted pleat in place.


Press Applied concept incorrectly.

Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Pleats and/or dart pressed wrong direction

Press dart toward center back or front. Press to produce a crisp pleat.


Baste


Applied concept with some inaccuracies. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Incorrect or uneven seam allowances.

Applied concept correctly. Baste an even ½” from raw edge of fabric top over dart & pleats. .


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