THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Mary FitzpatrickAnthony Ham,

Trent Holden, Dean Starnes

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safe Travel ....................... 638 Directory A–Z ................... 640Transport ......................... 650Health ............................... 657Language ......................... 663Index ................................. 676Map Legend ..................... 686

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

650

GETTING THERE & AWAY This chapter covers getting to East Africa from else-where in the world. For travel between and around East African countries, and for border-crossing information, see the Transport sections in the individual country chapters.

Flights and tours can be booked online at www.lonely-planet.com/travel_services.

Air Airports Nairobi (Kenya) is East Africa’s major air hub, and the best destination for nd-ing special airfares. Other major airports include Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, and Entebbe in Uganda. There are also international airports in Kigali (Rwanda), Bujumbura (Burundi) and Zanzibar (Tan-zania), and it’s worth check-ing out cheap charter ights to Mombasa (Kenya) from Europe.

Airlines The following airlines y to/from East Africa. For connec-

tions between East African countries, see the Getting There & Away information in the Transport sections of the country chapters. Air Madagascar (www.airmadagascar.com) Antan-anarivo (Madagascar) to Nairobi. Air Malawi (www.airmalawi.com) Blantyre and Lilongwe to Dar es Salaam. Air Mauritius (www.airmauritius.com) Mauritius to Nairobi. Air Uganda (www.air-uganda.com) Juba (South Sudan) to Entebbe, and then to Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Nairobi, Mombasa and Kigali. British Airways (www.britishairways.com) London to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam and Entebbe. Egypt Air (www.egyptair.com.eg) Cairo to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Entebbe and Kigali. Emirates (www.emirates.com) Dubai to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam and Entebbe. Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) Abidjan, Lagos, Douala, Cairo, Rome, New York, Washington, DC, Mumbai, Bangkok and many other cities to Addis Ababa, and then onward con-

nections to all major East African airports. Gulf Air (www.gulfairco.com) Bahrain to Nairobi and Entebbe. Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com) Abid-jan, Cairo, Douala, Harare, Johannesburg, Khartoum, Lilongwe, London, New York, Mumbai, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Guangzhou and many other cities to Nairobi, with onward connections to all East African capitals and Zanzibar. KLM (www.klm.com) Am-sterdam to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Entebbe. Linhas Aéreas de Moçam-bique (www.lam.co.mz) Maputo to Nairobi and Dar es Salaam via Pemba (Mo-zambique). Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk) London to Mombasa. Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) Doha to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Entebbe and Kigali. RwandAir (www.rwandair.com) Johannesburg, Libre-ville, Brazzaville, Dubai and Brussels to Kigali. SN Brussels Airline (www.flysn.com) Brussels to En-tebbe, Nairobi, Kigali and Bujumbura. South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) Johan-nesburg to Dar es Salaam, Nairobi, Entebbe and Kigali. Swiss International Airlines (www.swiss.com) Zurich to Dar es Salaam and Nairobi. Thomson Airways (http://flights.thomson.co.uk) London to Mombasa. Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) Istanbul to Nairobi and Dar es Salaam. Virgin Atlantic Airways (www.virgin-atlantic.com) London to Nairobi.

Tickets » Airfares from Europe and

North America to East Africa are highest in December and January, and again from June

Transport

32-transport-ea9.indd 650 12/04/2012 5:35:57 PM

PAGE

40

PAGE

637

Detour:

p493the CongoRepublic ofDemocratic

p503Rwanda

p557Burundi

p377Uganda

p215Kenya

p42Tanzania

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to East Africa ............................. 211 Top Experiences......... 6Need to Know ................. 12If You Like ........................ 14Month by Month ............. 17Itineraries ........................ 19Safaris ............................. 24Gorilla Tracking .............. 32Travel with Children ....... 36Countries at a Glance .... 38

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND EAST AFRICA

East Africa Today ........... 570History ............................. 572Life in East Africa ........... 578Tribal Cultures ................ 583Environment ................... 591Wildlife & Habitat ........... 597National Parks & Reserves ........................ 621Primates .......................... 627The Arts........................... 631A Taste of East Africa ..... 634

EUR

OP

EA

NS

c 1400–1700 In several waves, small

bands of nomadic cattle herders migrate south from the Sudan

into the Rift Valley – ancestors of the

Maasai who today live in Kenya and Tanzania.

1850–1870 Zanzibar’s slave

market becomes the largest in East

Africa. According to some estimates, from

10,000 to 50,000 slaves passed through

its gates each year.

1890 Britain and Germany

create ‘spheres of in uence’. Zanzibar

becomes a British ‘protectorate.’ After

WWI, the German area of Rwanda-Urundi

(later to be Rwanda and Burundi) comes

under Belgian control.

p , ,in three ecades, the Portuguese had disrupte the o tra ing networ s an subdued the entire coast, building forts at various p aces, inc u ing Kilwa and Mombasa. Portuguese control lasted until the ear y 18th cen-tury, when they were displaced by Arabs from Oman.

As the Omani Arabs solidi ed their foothold, they began to turn their sights westwards, developing powerful trade routes that stretched in an as far as Lake Tanganyika and Central Africa. Commerce grew at such a pace that in the 1840s, the Sultan of Oman moved his capital from Mus-cat to Zanzibar Island.

The slave trade also grew rapidly during this period, driven in part by demand from European plantation holders on the Indian Ocean islands of Réunion and Mauritius. Soon slave traders, including the notorious Tippu Tip, had established stations at Tabora (Tanzania) and other in-land towns. By the mid-19th century, the Zanzibar Archipelago had be-come the largest slave entrepôt along the East African coast, with nearly 50,000 slaves, abducted from as far away as Lake Tanganyika, passing through Zanzibar’s market each year.

Colonial Control In addition to reports of the horrors of the still-ongoing regional slave trade, tales of the attractions of East Africa also made their way back to Europe, and Western interests were piqued. In 1890, Germany and Great Britain signed an agreement de ning ‘spheres of in uence’ for themselves, which formally established a British protectorate over the

(Kenya) » Kolo-Kondoa

Rock Art Sites (Tanzania) » Kilwa Kisiwani

& Songo Mnara (Tanzania) » Zanzibar’s

Stone Town (Tanzania)

CR

ED

IT

Cud-Chewing Mammals Africa is arguably most famous for its astounding variety of ungulates – hoofed mammals that include everything from buffaloes to giraffes. In this large family, the cud-chewing antelope are particularly numerous, with 40 different species in East Africa alone.

Wildebeest

1 Weight 140-290kg; length 230-340cm Few animals evoke the spirit of the Afri-

can plain like the wildebeest. Over one million gather in vast, constantly moving herds on the Serengeti.

Thomson’s Gazelle

2 Weight 15-35kg; length 95-150cm Lanky and exceptionally alert, the long-

legged Thomson’s gazelle is built for speed. The 400,000 living on the Serengeti Plains migrate with wildebeest and zebras.

African Bu alo

3 Weight 250-850kg; length 220-420cm Imagine a big cow with curling

horns, and you have the African bu alo. Fortunately, they’re usually docile – an angry

i j d b l i t l d

606

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EDIT/LO

NELY PLA

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ES ©

CR

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606

Gorilla Tracking at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Uganda)

7 Nothing can really prepare you for that rst moment as you stand just metres away

from a family of mountain gorillas. It’s an utter-ly humbling experience. Particularly that rst glimpse of the silverback, whose sheer size and presence will leave you in awe. Or the glee you’ll feel as you watch adorable fuzzy-black babies clowning about and tumbling from trees. The term ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ is bandied about a lot, but gorilla tracking in Bwindi is a genuine experience that you’ll forever cherish.

White-Water Rafting on the Nile (Uganda)

8 With rapids that go by names like A Bad Place or Dead Dutchman, the idea of being

ung head-on into surging torrents of water sounds like a nightmare. But for those who’ve experienced it, it’s one of the most exciting things they’ve done in Africa. Taking place along the source of the Nile River, things start o as a leisurely paddle. This is, of course, the calm before the storm. Next thing you know you’re looking up at a towering wave that mer-cilessly smashes upon you. It’s breathtaking stu and a ridiculous amount of fun.

CR

ED

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DIT

7

8

1010

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

569GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

East Africa is a vast region, and getting around takes time. It’s better to focus on getting to know one or two areas in depth, rather than trying to take in too much on one visit.

If it’s wildlife you’re after, head to the savannah parks of Kenya or Tanzania to see large numbers of elephants, giraffes and zebras, or to northwestern Uganda for wildlife watching by the thundering Murchison Falls.

Uganda and Rwanda are the places to go for gorillas, while western Tanzania is one of the best places anywhere for observing chimpanzees in the wild.

Burundi offers fascinating cultures and tranquil inland beaches, and both Kenya and Tanzania have miles of Indian Ocean coastline.

Tanzania Wildlife Beaches Culture

Wildlife Whether you’re watching wildebeest on the Serengeti Plains or oating past hippos and crocs in Selous Game Reserve, the variety of wildlife in Tanzania is unsurpassed.

Beaches & Islands Let yourself be seduced by miles of Indian Ocean coastline, magical archipelagos, sway-ing palms, and ne diving and snorkel-ling. Once you get hooked, it’s likely you’ll never want to leave.

Culture Tanzania has a rich array of tribal traditions and long Swahili roots. To get to know the cultural melange, travel o the beaten track. Cultural tourism programs o er an accessible introduction.

p 42

Kenya Wildlife Beaches Culture

Wildlife From the plains of Masai Mara Na-tional Reserve to the landscapes of Amboseli National Park, Kenya o ers superb and a ord-able wildlife watch-ing against stunning natural backdrops.

Beaches & Islands Kenya’s coast is en-chanting, whether you’re relaxing on the beaches around Mombasa or wan-dering sleepy lanes on Lamu island. Come for a week, but wind up staying much longer.

Culture The beaded Tur-kana and the red-robed Maasai are just a sampling of Kenya’s vibrant tribal mix. Getting to know the dif-ferent peoples and rich traditions is a highlight, no matter which part of the country you visit.

p 215

countriesat aglance

38

10-countries-at-glance-ea9.indd 38 16/04/2012 2:37:40 PM

Need to Know

Buses » Buses, often

overcrowded and far from luxurious, are the most widely used form of transport. Prices are inexpensive for the distance travelled.

Trains » Main routes

(Nairobi–Mombasa, Dar es Salaam–Mbeya and Dar es Salaam–Kigoma) are ageing and slow, but offer a glimpse into daily life.

High Season (Jun–Aug)

» Much of the region is cooler and dry.

» Hotels in popular areas are full, many with high-season prices.

» Animal-spotting is easiest, as foliage is sparse and animals congregate around water sources.

Shoulder Season (Sep–Feb)

» An ideal travel time, with greener landscapes and fewer crowds.

» Peak-season prices from mid-December to mid-January.

Low Season (Mar–May)

» Heavy rains in much of the region make secondary roads muddy, some areas inaccessible and landscapes green.

» Some hotels close; others offer low-season discounts.

When to Go

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

NairobiGO Jun-Feb

KampalaGO Jun-Mar

KigaliGO Jun-Mar

BujumburaGO May-Feb

ArushaGO Jun-Feb

MombasaGO Jun-Mar

Dar es SalaamGO Jun-Feb

Your Daily Budget Budget Less Than US$50

» Room in basic budget guesthouse US$10 to US$20

» Ask about low-season room and safari discounts

» Local-style meals are tasty and cheap

Midrange US$50 to US$200

» Double room in a midrange hotel US$50 to US$150

» Budget extra for safaris, gorilla tracking and vehicle rental

» Meals in Western-style restaurants

Top End US$200 plus

» Upmarket hotel room from US$150

» All-inclusive safari packages from US$250 per person per day

12

SOMALIA

BURUNDI

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Tanzania is the soul of East Africa and this route through the country ranges acrossthe country’s enduring highlights. As with the Kenya itinerary, we’ve saved the coasfor its own itinerary.

Starting from Dar es Salaam, one of Africa’s more agreeable larger cities, head upthe coast to Saadani National Park, a manageable prelude to the grander national parksof the Tan anian interior F rther north Pangani is an old S ahili trading post s rro nd

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Look out for these icons:

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TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . .42DAR ES SALAAM . . . . . . . 46AROUND DAR ES SALAAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Pugu Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Northern Beaches . . . . . . 57ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . . . . . 58Zanzibar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58AROUND ZANZIBAR . . . . 75Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75PEMBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Chake Chake . . . . . . . . . . . 87Northern Pemba . . . . . . . . 90NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Bagamoyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Saadani National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Pangani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Tanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96USAMBARA MOUNTAINS 98Amani Nature Reserve . . 99Lushoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100NORTHERN TANZANIA . . 103Moshi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Marangu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Mt Kilimanjaro National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Arusha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Arusha National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Tarangire National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Lake Manyara National Park . . . . . . . . . . 133Lake Natron. . . . . . . . . . . . 135

Karatu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Ngorongoro Conservation Area . . . . . . 137Serengeti NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . 142CENTRAL TANZANIA . . . . 146Dodoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Kondoa Rock-Art Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149LAKE VICTORIA. . . . . . . . . 151Musoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Mwanza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Rubondo Island National Park . . . . . . . . . . 157Bukoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158WESTERN TANZANIA . . . . 160Tabora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Kigoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Gombe National Park . . . 165Mahale Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 165Mpanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Katavi National Park . . . . 167Sumbawanga . . . . . . . . . . 168SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 169Morogoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Mikumi National Park . . . 171Iringa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Ruaha National Park . . . . 176Mbeya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Lake Nyasa . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Songea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Selous Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

Kilwa Masoko . . . . . . . . . . 192Mtwara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Mikindani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196UNDERSTAND TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 201

KENYA . . . . . . . . . . . . 215NAIROBI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217SOUTHERN KENYA . . . . . 240Amboseli National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Tsavo West National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Tsavo East National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Park247Voi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 THE RIFT VALLEY . . . . . . . 249Lake Naivasha. . . . . . . . . . 250Hell’s Gate National Park . . . . . . . . . . 253Nakuru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Lake Nakuru National Park . . . . . . . . . . 256Lake Bogoria National Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Lake BaringoKenya/The Rift Valley/Lake Baringo . . . . . . . . . . . 259WESTERN KENYAKenya/Western Kenya . . . . . . . 260Masai Mara National Reserve . . . . . . . Park261Lake Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . 266Kericho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Kakamega Forest . . . . . . . 274Eldoret . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Kitale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Mt Elgon National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the RoadCENTRAL HIGHLANDSKenya/Central Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . 283Nyeri & AroundKenya/Central Highlands/Nyeri & Around . . . . . . . . . 283Aberdare National ParkKenya/Central Highlands/Aberdare National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Nyahururu (Thomson’s Falls)Kenya/Central Highlands/Nyahururu (thomson’s Falls) . . . . . . . 289Mt Kenya National ParkKenya/Central Highlands/Mt Kenya National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Naro MoruKenya/Central Highlands/Naro Moru . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297NanyukiKenya/Central Highlands/Nanyuki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297MeruKenya/Central Highlands/Meru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Meru National ParkKenya/Central Highlands/Meru National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302NORTHERN KENYAKenya/Northern Kenya . . . . . 305Isiolo to EthiopiaKenya/Northern Kenya/Isiolo To Ethiopia . . . . . . . 305Maralal to Turkana’s Eastern ShoreKenya/Northern Kenya/Maralal To Turkana’s Eastern Shore Kenya/Central Highlands/Chogoria . . . . . . . . . . 313Marich to Turkana’s Western ShoreKenya/Northern Kenya/Marich To Turkana’s Western Shore . . . . . . . . . 317THE COASTKenya/The Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 320MombasaKenya/The Coast/Mombasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320Tiwi BeachKenya/The Coast/Tiwi Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331Diani BeachKenya/The Coast/Diani Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Shimoni & Wasini IslandKenya/The Coast/Shimoni & Wasini Island3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336MalindiKenya/The Coast/Malindi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342LamuKenya/The Coast/Lamu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346UNDERSTAND KENYAKenya/Understand Kenya . . . 355SURVIVAL GUIDEKenya/Survival Guide . . . . . . . 362

UGANDA . . . . . . . . . . . 377KAMPALA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379AROUND KAMPALA . . . . . 398Entebbe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary . . 401EASTERN UGANDA . . . . . 403

Jinja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403Mt Elgon National Park . . 412Sipi Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414SOUTHWESTERN UGANDA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416Fort Portal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Rwenzori Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 428Queen Elizabeth National Park . . . . . . . . . . 432Bwindi Impenetrable National Park . . . . . . . . . . 437Kabale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443Lake Bunyonyi . . . . . . . . . 445Kisoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448Mgahinga Gorilla National Park . . . . . . . . . . 450Ssese Islands . . . . . . . . . . 455NORTHWESTERN UGANDA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary . . . 457Masindi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Murchison Falls National Park . . . . . . . . . . 460NORTHEASTERN UGANDA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467Kidepo Valley National Park . . . . . . . . . . 469UNDERSTAND UGANDA . 471SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 484

DETOUR: DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO . . . . . . . . . . . .493Goma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .494Parc National Des Virungas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497

UNDERSTAND THE DRC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 501

RWANDA . . . . . . . . . .503KIGALI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505NORTHWESTERN RWANDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515Musanze (Ruhengeri) . . . 515Parc National des Volcans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Gisenyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525SOUTHWESTERN RWANDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Huye (Butare) . . . . . . . . . . 530Nyungwe Forest National Park . . . . . . . . . . 535Cyangugu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540Kibuye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540EASTERN RWANDA . . . . . 542Parc National de l’Akagera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542UNDERSTAND RWANDA . 545SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 550

BURUNDI . . . . . . . . . . 557BUJUMBURA . . . . . . . . . . . 558AROUND BUJUMBURA . . . 564UNDERSTAND BURUNDI 564SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . . . . 566

Contributing AuthorDavid Lukas wrote the Wildife & Habitat chapter. David is a freelance naturalist who lives next to Yosemite National Park in California. He writes extensively about the world’s wildlife, and has contributed wildlife chapters for eight African Lonely Planet guides ranging from Ethiopia to South Africa.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Mary FitzpatrickCoordinating Author, Tanzania Mary’s love affair with East Africa began almost two decades ago, when she travelled from Mozambique to Tanzania to climb Mt Kilimanjaro. Since then she has returned countless times, including to study Swahili. A travel writer for more than 15 years, Mary has authored and coauthor-ed numerous Lonely Planet titles, including Tanzania. She is currently based in Tanzania. Mary also wrote the Welcome to East Africa, 11 Top Experiences, Need

to Know, Safaris, Countries at a Glance, East Africa Today, History, Life in East Africa, Tribal Cul-tures, The Arts and A Taste of East Africa chapters.

Anthony HamKenya Anthony has spent the last decade in North and West Africa, exploring the Sahara with Tuareg nomads and tracking down endangered elephant herds from the Malian Sahel to remote corners of southern Chad. In addition to coordinating Lonely Planet’s West Africa, Africa and Libya guides, Anthony writes and photo-graphs for numerous publications. Anthony also wrote the If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Gorilla Tracking, Travel with Children, Environment, National

Parks & Reserves, Primates and Safe Travel chapters.

Trent HoldenUganda On his first sojourn into Africa as a Lonely Planet author, Trent was thrilled to be assigned to Uganda – one of his favourite destinations in the world. It’s a place he loves not only for its incredible diversity but for some of the lush-est landscapes he’s seen in his travels. Trent is a freelance writer and editor from Melbourne and this is his sixth book for Lonely Planet, having coauthored other titles including India and Nepal.

Dean StarnesRwanda, Burundi, Detour: Democratic Republic of the Congo Dean first back-packed through East Africa in 2004 – racing camels in Maralal, rafting the Nile in Jinja and falling off the map in Rwanda. Since then he has returned to Africa mul-tiple times, coauthoring the Ethiopia (4th edition) and Kenya (8th edition) guides. Dean relished the chance to finally climb DRC’s Nyiragongo Volcano for this book. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Dean lives in New Zealand with his wife.

Read more about Mary at: lonelyplanet.com/members/maryf

Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet.com/members/anthonyham

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – July 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 672-8© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

ETHIOPIA

SOMALIA

BURUNDI

KENYA

RWANDA

UGANDA

DEMOCRATICREPUBLIC

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Two WeeksClassic East Africa

This itinerary samples the best that East Africa has to offer, combining some of Af-rica’s best wildlife watching with beaches and the Swahili coast. To manage this itin-erary in two weeks, you’ll need to travel some parts of the journey by air.

After arriving at Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro International Airport and Arusha, head to Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater. Then, catch a flight to the Zanzi-bar Archipelago for diving, snorkelling and relaxing. While you’re there, take in the charm and historical attractions of Zanzibar’s old Stone Town.

Fly from Zanzibar to Nairobi, but don’t linger in the Kenyan capital any longer than you have to; instead head straight out on safari again. If you’ve already visited the Serengeti, you could probably skip the Masai Mara National Reserve and make a beeline for Am-boseli National Park for peerless Mt Kilimanjaro views and some of Africa’s best elephant-viewing, before travelling northeast (via Nairobi) to see the rhinos and flamingos of Lake Nakuru National Park.

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Bogoria NR

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INDIANOCEAN

Three WeeksKenya Circuit

Three weeks in Kenya will take you through the full range of East African landscapes, with sightings of most of the region’s charismatic mega-fauna possible en route; go-rillas and chimps are the main missing links in Kenya’s portfolio.

Fly into Nairobi and then head west to the Masai Mara National Reserve, the scene for one of the most spectacular wildlife shows on earth. From here, head southeast across Maasai land to Amboseli National Park for wildlife drives in the shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro; elephants, lions and most of the plains’ species are present in this beautiful, compact park. From Amboseli, it’s a straightforward drive to Tsavo West National Park and Tsavo East National Park, Kenya’s largest wildlife parks and a real taste of the African wilderness. Tsavo East has all three big cats and Kenya’s largest elephant population, while Tsavo West boasts all of the Big Five – see them all in one day and you’ve hit the safari jack-pot. From here, you could head down the highway to the ancient Swahili port of Mombasa, one of the truly great port cities on earth; this is a good option if you’re en route to Tanzania or on a journey up the coast.

But we recommend returning north to explore the heart of Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Climbing Mt Longonot takes you to the rim of a lost world and affords fine Rift Valley views, while Hell’s Gate National Park promises weird rock formations and the rare chance to walk among the wildlife. Rhinos cavort with flamingos and massed pelicans in Lake Nakuru National Park, while birders will never want to leave Lake Baringo and the Lake Bogoria National Reserve; the latter hosts more flamingos. If you’re heading to Uganda, make Kakamega Forest, a Kenyan outpost of the great rainforests of Central Africa, your next stop. Otherwise, press on into the deserts of the north, focusing your ex-plorations on Lake Turkana.

Returning south, the Samburu National Reserve has a certain gravitas, and don’t miss the conservation success story that is the Laikipia Plateau. One of Kenya’s most under-rated parks is Meru National Park, while some seriously large beasts lurk in the under-growth of the Aberdare National Park. You’re almost done, but climbing Mt Kenya is a worthy end to your explorations of the country.

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Four WeeksTanzanian Trails

Tanzania is the soul of East Africa and this route through the country ranges across the country’s enduring highlights. As with the Kenya itinerary, we’ve saved the coast for its own itinerary.

Starting from Dar es Salaam, one of Africa’s more agreeable larger cities, head up the coast to Saadani National Park, a manageable prelude to the grander national parks of the Tanzanian interior. Further north, Pangani is an old Swahili trading post surround-ed by lovely beaches. Tanga has a sleepy colonial air; if you’re coming from Mombasa in Kenya, this may be your first staging post in the country. Best of all, the nearby Usambara Mountains promise green hiking trails through pretty villages.

As you shadow the Kenyan border travelling northwest, you can start to tick off some of Tanzania’s (and East Africa’s) signature sights. Moshi (another possible first stop if you’re coming from Kenya) is the perfect place to plot your attempt on the summit of Africa’s high-est peak, the iconic Mt Kilimanjaro. Not far away, Arusha (connected by bus to Nairobi) is your gateway to a triumvirate of the country’s most beautiful and significant protected areas: Serengeti National Park (for vast quantities of wildlife), Ngorongoro Conserva-tion Area (for stunning Rift Valley landscapes and lions) and Lake Manyara National Park (for tree-climbing lions, if you’re lucky).

If you can tear yourself away, Mwanza and Lake Victoria offer a welcome change of pace; birders won’t want to miss Rubondo Island National Park. Once in this part of Tanzania, it’s straightforward to continue on into Uganda, but if you’re sticking with Tanzania a while longer, Gombe National Park is all about chimpanzees. From Kigoma, board the MV Liemba and cruise down Lake Tanganyika to Mahale Mountains National Park, where chimpanzees are also the major draw; these two parks receive a fraction of the visitors compared to those of the northern safari circuit. The same can be said for Katavi National Park.

As you return east, consider breaking up the journey in Mbeya, the Kitulo Plateau or Udzungwa Mountains National Park. But whatever you do, finish your journey in the Selous Game Reserve for the rare opportunity to explore the Tanzanian wilderness on foot or by boat.

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KAMPALAJinja

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KibaleForest NP

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NP

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LakeVictoria

Three WeeksUgandan Odyssey

Uganda is East Africa’s unsung star, a country that combines many of the attractions you’ll find elsewhere in the region, but with gorillas thrown in and far fewer visitors to spoil the view.

First stop, Kampala which, unlike Nairobi, makes an appealing introduction to this corner of East Africa. It’s a good place to get your bearings, visit a handful of stellar cultural sites and start planning your foray out into the Ugandan wilds. From here, it’s a short hop to Entebbe, with its attractive Lake Victoria beaches, and Jinja, which makes a convincing claim for the title of Africa’s adrenaline sports capital. Throw in the source du Nil (source of the Nile) and some curious architecture and Jinja is one of East Africa’s more well-rounded towns. Away to the northeast, Mt Elgon National Park is a challeng-ing but immensely rewarding centre for high-altitude trekking; once in the area, don’t miss the vertiginous Sipi Falls. If you’re linking up with a Kenyan itinerary, Busia is a convenient launch pad for Western Kenya. If not, check the security situation and, assuming you get the all clear, travel north to Kidepo Valley National Park, a remote and beguiling park that receives very few visitors. It’s the only park in Uganda where all three big cats are present.

Depending on the prevailing security situation, you may need to return to Kampala. Oth-erwise, push on to the northwest to Murchison Falls National Park, arguably Uganda’s finest park; watch out for chimps, lions, leopards and so much more. Tracking south, pause for a few days amid the crater lakes south of Fort Portal, and on no account miss the rainforests of Kibale Forest National Park, with 13 primate species and some of the best chimpanzee tracking in East Africa. In the same area, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to uplifting landscapes, some of whose names carry the unmistakeable rhythms of African magic – the Rwenzori Mountains National Park is a mist-shrouded introduction to the rainforests of Central Africa, Queen Elizabeth National Park has extraordinarily rich bird life, tree-climbing lions and a slew of other mega-fauna, and Bwindi Impenetra-ble National Park is one of the best places in the world to see mountain gorillas. From this part of the country, it’s an easy hop across the border into Rwanda.

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Dar es Salaam

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KIGALI

Huye

Parc Nationaldes Volcans

MusanzeGisenyi

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Parc Nationaldes Virungas

BUJUMBURA

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Gorillas Out WestThe Swahili Coast

INDIANOCEAN

Two WeeksGorillas Out WestAlthough this itinerary focuses on Rwanda, Burundi and the Democrat-ic Republic of the Congo (DRC), it can link up seamlessly with the national

parks of southwestern Uganda or the chim-panzee-rich protected areas of Tanzania’s far west, allowing you to mix and match itiner-aries with ease.

Rwanda’s capital Kigali has a lush, moun-tainous setting and lively nightlife, with the sobering counterpoint of a genocide memo-rial. Next, head southwest via Huye (Bu-tare) to Nyungwe Forest National Park, with its chimpanzees and other primates, and then via Cyangugu to the scenic in-land beaches on Lake Kivu around Kibuye and Gisenyi. From here, it’s a short hop to Musanze (Ruhengeri) and the mountain gorillas of Parc National des Volcans. Re-turning to Gisenyi, cross the frontier into the DRC, where Goma serves as a gateway to the Parc National des Virungas, where you can track gorillas and chimpanzees, or stare down into the seething crater of the Nyiragongo Volcano. Returning to Rwan-da, a detour into Burundi (security situa-tion permitting) and its capital Bujumbura makes for an agreeable introduction to one of Africa’s least-known countries.

Two WeeksThe Swahili Coast

Warning: this itinerary could take far longer if you find your own slice of paradise and never want to leave.

From Dar es Salaam, travel south to the ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani, and further south still to pretty, palm-fringed Lindi, and tiny Mikindani, a charming Swahili village. Returning north, Mafia Island is like Zan-zibar without the crowds. And yet, there’s nowhere on earth quite like Zanzibar, the essence of East Africa’s Indian Ocean coast. Pemba, its northern neighbour, is an adven-turous detour. Your last Tanzanian port-of-call is Pangani, while just across the Kenyan border, Kisite Marine National Park is home to crocs along the banks of mangrove-lined rivers, dolphins crashing through the surf and humpback whales from August to October. Just before you arrive in the roil-ing Swahili port city of Mombasa, pause in Tiwi Beach, a tranquil white-sand paradise away from the resorts. Continuing north, stop in the charming town of Kilifi and at the Gede Ruins, an ancient Swahili city. But Lamu, a Swahili heritage gem, is the main event; a dhow (ancient Arabic sailing vessel) trip out into the wonderful Lamu archi-pelago is a must while here.

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