Oldways EMILIA ROMAGNA CULINARIA · Oldways EMILIA ROMAGNA CULINARIA with Chef Barbara Lynch & Art...

Oldways

EMILIA ROMAGNA CULINARIAwith

Chef Barbara Lynch & Art Curator Ronni BaerMay 1–8, 2016

Parma, Modena, Reggio Emilia, Bologna & more!

Introducing Emilia Romagna

Ask an Italian where to eat only one meal in Italy and, after recommending his mother’s

house, it is more than likely he will send you to the region of Emilia Romagna. Few foreigners know the region by name, but even those peo-ple with only a passing interest in food recog-nize its products. By law, Parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano) cheese and Prosciutto di Parma can be produced only in Emilia Romagna. And its wealth of handmade pastas, including the famed tortellini, are admired far beyond its borders. Balsamic vinegar originated here over a thou-sand years ago. Even though imitations are now made…the great balsamics—the ones that are aged for decades and are luscious enough to be sipped like liqueurs—are made in the re-gion. The region’s cuisine is as complex as an intricately woven tapestry. There is a peasant kitchen, a thriving middle-class cuisine, and the highly refined traditions of the region’s nobility.

Lynne Rossetto Kasper The Splendid Table (1992)

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Emilia RomagnaCulinaria

with

Barbara Lynchof

and

Ronni Baer Senior Curator of Paintings, Art of Europe

May 1–8, 2016

Parma, Modena, Bologna, Langhirano, and more!

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The Splendid Table that is Emilia RomagnaThe first time I visited Emilia Romagna, I had the enormous pleasure and

great honor of traveling with and learning from Lynne Rossetto Kasper, food writer, cookbook author and radio host. Lynne spent a number of years trav-eling around the region, learning from home cooks, chefs, and producers in order to document the culinary treasures of Emilia Romagna. The result in 1992 was the groundbreaking book, The Splendid Table, which won the Cookbook of the Year from both the International Association of Culinary Professionals and the James Beard Foundation. The Splendid Table became the name of Lynne’s award-winning food radio show.

While people from all over Italy, as well as chefs around the world, have always known that Emilia Romagna is “Italy’s food region,” the rest of the world has, most often, only known its signature products—traditional balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and pasta.But is it only these admittedly world-class food products that make Emilia Romagna so special? I realize I love Parma and all of Emilia Romagna more each time I visit. What is it?

Food writer David Rosengarten, writing in Forbes a few years ago, tallied up his favorite meals on a trip visiting three regions in Italy, and five out of six were in Emilia Romagna. David theorizes that “there is great food being made all over Italy, but I can’t think of another place where food comes to the table as proudly as it does in Emilia Romagna. And it’s not a noisy bragadocio…it’s simply…‘this is what we do. This is what my grandmother did.’ I know, I know, that’s not uncommon in Italy…but the scale of this at-titude in Emilia Romagna, and the percentage of chefs and restaurants that really do hit the sublime, traditional spot, consistently…in my mind, these things set the whole region apart.”

In Conde Nast Traveler, Patrick Symes opined that “there are greater things in Italy than in Parma alone. But for a first-time visitor like me, this was more than enough. Parmese say you eat twice: first at the table, then by talking about it. The food traditions here are among the oldest and most continuous in Europe, giving people enough time to try and reject every adornment, leaving a plateau of quality, a rare combination of inventive-ness and simplicity.”

Award-winning travel bloggers, The Planet D, described the region as, “Home to Pavarotti, Enzo Ferarri, Ferruccio Lamborghini, the Ducati brothers and the artist Parmigianino. It’s the land of Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar, it’s also the gastronomical capital of the country. There are so many reasons to love Emilia Romagna, you may never want to leave. It’s funny because before visiting this province in the North of Italy, we didn’t even know it existed.”

We DO know it exists, and that’s why we are here to spend a week exploring the culinary and cultural treasures of this remarkable region. It makes me very happy that you are joining Oldways for our return to Emilia Romagna with this week-long Culinaria. We look forward to sharing what Oldways and our local friends love about the region. We hope you will em-brace all that is special about Emilia Romagna, and take it back to your life at home. You’ll be able to say you are in the know about the region Italians say features the best food anywhere.

Sara Baer-Sinnott, President, Oldways May 2016

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Stir with PassionI did not grow up in a household where Nonna hand rolled her pasta dough on the kitchen table and hung strands of fettuccine over the backs of chairs to dry. All of the noodles (we didn’t call it pasta then) that my Irish family ate came out of a light blue Prince box, and I half believed the old commer-cial that made it look like spaghetti grew on trees. So it makes me espe-cially proud that it’s my fresh pastas and gnocchi that have gotten me the most attention as a professional chef.

It was during my first extended trip to Italy, where I cooked every day with the wife of the farmer at whose home I stayed, that I realized the process of making fresh pasta is something soulful and not simply the product of a recipe. Making pasta and gnocchi with Mita in her rustic kitchen, I learned to trust my instincts more than any recipe, to really feel the dough, and to understand that every time I make a batch of dough, the amount of flour added will be different (and that is how it should be). Most important, Mita taught me not to be afraid. Before my visit, I handled pasta dough gingerly, as if it might somehow dissolve right before my eyes. I practically held my breath when I sent it through the rollers, and I was scared that I was going to make the pasta tough if I dared to flour it during rolling. (The fear was similar to how I felt about babies before I had one of my own).

I returned to Boston with a renewed passion for pasta. It was this pas-sion that led me to open my first restaurant, No. 9 Park, and ultimately, Sportello, my restaurant most devoted to Italian cuisine and fresh pastas.

I make pasta all the time at home as well. I make batches of fresh pasta on the weekends with my daughter, Marchesa, who loves to help roll it. And if someone has a birthday party, I’m more likely to show up with a pan of gnocchi than with a bottle of wine or flowers.

Thank you for joining me and Oldways on this culinary journey through Italy. I hope you all eat well and are inspired by what you taste. Hopefully, by the end of our time together you will also head home with a renewed passion for Italian cuisine and colorful memories of my favorite region in Italy.

Barbara Lynch, Chef/Owner

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Program

Sunday, May 1: Benvenuto

All day Arrival in Parma and check-in at Grand Hotel de la Ville Take time to unpack, rest and perhaps take a quick walk down Via della Republica into Piazza Garibaldi and the center of Parma, or stroll around the Barilla Center, a collection of shops, coffee bars and restaurants next to the hotel.

6:30 pm Welcome with a Wine Tasting and Dinner of Local Specialties We’ll gather in Ristorante Parmigianino off the hotel lobby for an introduction to the week and a wine tasting of the wines of Emilia Romagna. This will give you time to meet and talk with your fellow travelers, and as the group gathers, we’ll have an introductory session with Barbara Lynch and Sara Baer-Sinnott. Paolo Tegoni, a wine expert and professor, will follow with a tasting of five wines from the region. Our dinner will feature classic dishes as an introduction to the region.

Monday, May 2: ParMigiano reggiano

7:00 am Breakfast Buffet at Grand Hotel de la Ville

9:00 am Parmigiano Reggiano, from Start to Finish Meet in the hotel lobby for our short drive to Valserena, one of the few farmstead producers of Parmigiano Reggiano. Giovanni Serra and his family, the 5th gen-eration to raise and milk the cows, grow their feed, and make the Parmigiano Reggiano wheels all on site (nine wheels a day to be ex-act). They are also one of only four certified Brown Cow (Vaca Bruna) Parmesan producers that work solely with this ancient breed. You will see the process of producing Parmigiano Reggiano and will learn how impeccable care leads to happy cows and amazing milk.

Countryside Lunch at Valserena The Serra family has kindly invited us to stay for lunch at their home. Our lunch will include plenty of products from Valserena—Parmigiano Reggiano and ricotta, plus Prosciutto di Parma.

Afternoon Return to Grand Hotel de la Ville

You’ll have free time in the afternoon—to exercise, walk into town or just rest and relax.

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8:00 pm Dinner at Ristorante Cocchi We’ll meet in the lobby for a short bus ride to enjoy dinner at one of Parma’s best restaurants—a favorite of locals and tour-ists alike.

tueSday, May 3: ParMa and Cooking


9:00 am Walking Tour of Parma We’ll meet in the lobby for a walking guided tour of our host city, Parma. Our guide, Alice Rossi, will take us on a walk through the city, and visits to Farnese Theatre and the Reggio Theatre, and conclude with a visit to the Duomo, including spe-cial commentary from Ronni Baer about the Correggio dome.

1:00 pm Lunch at Ristorante Angiol d’Or We’ll lunch close to the Duomo at Ristorante Angiol d’Or—the golden angel. After lunch we’ll walk back to the Grand Hotel de la Ville to get ready for our cooking class.

3:30 pm Hands-on Cooking Class and Dinner! We’ll meet in the hotel lobby to walk across the piazza to Academia Barilla for our hands-on cooking class. First, we’ll visit the one-of-a-kind Gastronomic Library, and then we’ll be divided into four teams for our Hands-on Cooking Class– everyone cooks! When we finish, we’ll present our dishes to the group in the Academia Barilla auditorium, and then head to the Library for a dinner of the dishes each group prepared.

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WedneSday, May 4: ProSCiutto di ParMa


9:00 am Visit to Pio Tosini—Prosciutto House We’ll meet in the lobby to depart for Langhirano, at the foot-hills of the Apennines outside Parma. Our first stop will be Pio Tosini, where we will learn from Giovanni Bianchi, a third gen-eration producer of Prosciutto di Parma. Pio Tosini’s curing room is one of the last traditional curing houses still in existence today with hams hanging from wooden racks that have been in use since the 1950s. They are the last producer exporting to the U.S. that relies solely on the traditional method of drying the legs by opening their windows. Walking down the corridor of hams, you will experience the aromas, and see and learn about the production of Prosciutto di Parma from start to finish. After the tour, we’ll take a short bus ride to Vineyard Carra di Casatico, for a tasting of Pio Tosini Prosciutto di Parma and a glass of wine.

Winery Visit To learn more about the wines of the region, we’ll travel a short distance to the Lamoretti Vineyard, where we’ll have a tour and tasting of two wines.

Lunch Masticabrodo Trattoria We’ll enjoy a lunch of fresh pastas at Masticabrodo Trattoria, only a short distance from the winery. At the end of our lunch, the chef will give a demonstration of fresh pasta making. And, of course, we’ll have more wine!

Tour of Castle of Torrechiara Our guide, Alice Rossi, will introduce us to Torrechiara, a mas-sive castle built in the 15th century by a count. The building was thought to be not only a defensive structure, but also a mansion for the count’s lover.

Evening Free time. Please see our suggestions on page 26 for restau-rants in Parma to enjoy on your own.

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thurSday, May 5: BarBara, PaSta & the CountrySide


10:00 am Barbara Lynch’s Cooking Demonstration and Lunch We’ll walk back across the piazza to Academia Barilla for the great treat of Barbara’s cooking demonstration (see recipes on Pages 27 to 33), followed by a lunch of the dishes Barbara showed us in the demo.

Afternoon Visit to Barilla Pasta Factory After lunch we’ll leave for a Barilla factory to learn how they make the pasta in the blue box!

Evening Visit and Gala Dinner at Massimo Spigaroli’s Antica Corte Pallavicina It’s a hotel, a restaurant that received 1 Michelin star in 2011, a farm, and a 14th-century castle with cheese, wine, and salami caves. We’ll have a tour of the farm, discover old varieties of vege-tables, fruits, the Black Pig from Parma and the white ox. Then back to the Castle and tour of the old living rooms and the Culatello historical aging cave, followed by our 5-course Gala Dinner.

Friday, May 6: aCeto BalSaMiCo tradizionale


9:30 am Visit to Acetaia Malpighi Depart for Modena for a visit to Acetaia Malpighi to learn about the special secrets of making Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. We’ll also have a tasting and the opportunity to buy (at a good price) an array of different balsamic vinegars.

11:30 Depart for Modena Tour and Lunch at Il Fantino

We’ll depart for the center of Modena, and will have time to walk around with our guide, Fabio Bergonzini. Then at 1:00 pm we'll take over the restaurant, Il Fantino, for a typical Modenese lunch including Aceto Balsamico.

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3:30 pm Guided Tour of Modena and Free Time in Modena Our Modena guide, Fabio Bergonzini, a doctor of archaeology, will continue with our tour of the cultural highlights of the beau-tiful city of Modena.

6:00 pm Return to Parma and Free Evening Please see our suggestions on page 26 for restaurants in Parma to enjoy on your own. Or, if you prefer, you can stay in Modena and return to Parma on your own.

Saturday, May 7: CarS, Food & art


9:00 am Half-Day Tours! Participants must attend the tour they previously selected. Please check with Abby Sloane for your choice.

A. Half-day Walking Art/Mosaic Tour in Ravenna (this group leaves Parma at 8 am) We will meet our guide, Giada Rubinato, at 10 am in the city center of Ravenna. We will vis-it the Church of Saint John the Evangelist, the Church of Saint Apollinaire Nuovo, the so-called palace of Theodoric, Dante’s grave and the fantastic crypt of Saint Francis, People Square, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, and finally, the masterpiece of byzantine mosaic art, the Church of Saint Vitale. We’ll complete the half day tour with lunch at Ristorante Cà de Ven in Ravenna before returning to Parma.

B. Half-day Art and Food Tour in Bologna Our guide, Fabio Bergonzini, wrote us that Bologna is known as ‘the fat one,’ declared by Forbes as ‘the stomach of Europe’, hosting an incredible number of DOP foodstuffs as well as be-ing considered the cradle of Italian hand-made pasta. A foodie walking tour is a great way to discover the many delicious food treasures of Bologna. Fabio is arranging for tastings and visits

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to bakeries, shops and markets, as well as tours of some of Bologna’s cultural sites. We’ll complete the tour with lunch at Ristorante Cesarina in Bologna before returning to Parma.

C. Half-day Visit to the Ferrari Museums and (optional) Driving We’ll meet our guide, Camilla Caló, at the first of two different Ferrari museums, one located in Modena—the house where Enzo Ferrari was born, with personal affects and memorabilia, as well as a display of the most relevant Ferrari cars mod-els—and another one, located in Maranello, where the Ferrari headquarters are now located. The Maranello museum, located close to theFerrari factory, as well as to the Ferrari racing track, display the many awards won by the Ferrari racing team and many, many models of Ferrari cars. At the end of the visit, a driving simulator is at display, for everyone to enjoy. We’ll have lunch at the Driver Bar next to the museum in Maranello.

Late afternoon Return to Parma We’ll get back to Parma in time for you to rest, pack or shop before our final dinner.

8:00 pm Final Dinner at Trattoria del Ducato We’ve chosen a very local and traditional restaurant for your last dinner of the Emilia Romagna Culinaria. And, it is only a very short walk from the hotel!

Sunday, May 8: arrivederCi!7:00 am Breakfast Buffet at Grand Hotel de la Ville

Departures

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Barbara LynchFounder & CEO, Barbara Lynch Gruppo

James Beard Award-winner and Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef Barbara Lynch is regarded as one of Boston’s—and the country’s—leading chefs and restau-rateurs. While growing up in South Boston, Barbara, at the age of 13, got her first kitchen job cooking at a local rectory. It was in high school, however, that an influential home economics teacher, and a job working with Chef Mario Bonello at Boston’s esteemed St. Botolph Club, piqued her interest in one day becoming a professional chef. During her early twenties, Barbara worked under

some of Boston’s greatest culinary talents. After working with Todd English for several years at Michaela’s and Olives, Barbara traveled to Italy where she learned about the country’s cuisine firsthand from local women. She returned to Boston and became the executive chef at Galleria Italiana, bringing national acclaim to the tiny trattoria when she captured Food & Wine’s “Ten Best New Chefs in America” award.

In 1998, Barbara opened a restaurant of her own, No. 9 Park, in Boston’s Beacon Hill neighborhood. The restaurant immediately received rave reviews from publications around the country and was named one of the “Top 25 New Restaurants in America” by Bon Appétit and “Best New Restaurant” by Food & Wine.

Barbara expanded her presence in Boston by opening two restaurants in the South End in 2003: B&G Oysters, serving pristine oysters and New England classics, and The Butcher Shop, a wine bar and full-service butch-er shop. Barbara continued to grow her culinary empire by opening three unique concepts in succession: in 2005, Niche Catour, a catering compa-ny; Plum Produce in September 2006; and next door, Stir, a demonstration kitchen and cookbook store, in 2007.

In fall 2008, Barbara launched two concepts in Boston’s Fort Point neigh-borhood: Drink, a bar dedicated to the craft of the cocktail, and Sportello (Italian for counter service), her modern interpretation of a diner. Her cater-ing company, 9 at Home (formerly Niche Catour), relocated to Fort Point in 2008 as well.

In spring 2010, Barbara and her team opened an eagerly anticipated third concept in Boston’s Fort Point neighborhood, Menton, a fine din-ing restaurant. Menton has received numerous accolades since opening, including being named one of Bon Appétit and Esquire magazine's best new restaurants in 2010, being nominated as a James Beard Foundation Awards 2011 finalist for “Best New Restaurant,” and a four-star review from The Boston Globe. In 2012, Menton became the first and only Relais & Châteaux property in Boston, and its reputation as a culinary destination was further confirmed with the receipt of AAA’s “Five Diamond Award” and

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Forbes Travel Guide’s Five-Star Award. Barbara is currently the only female in the United States to hold the distinguished title of “Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux.”

Barbara’s talents have continued to garner praise over the years, both locally and nationally. In 2003, the James Beard Foundation named her “Best Chef Northeast” and Travel & Leisure proclaimed No. 9 Park one of the “Top 50 Restaurants in America.” For two consecutive years, No. 9 Park was named “Best Restaurant, General Excellence” by Boston Magazine, and Gourmet included it as one of “America’s Top 50 Restaurants” in 2006. In 2007, Boston Magazine named Barbara “Best Chef.”

Barbara and her recipes have been featured in many publications including Saveur, Boston Common, Bon Appétit, The New York Times, and Inc. mag-azine. She was one of a handful of Bostonians to be profiled in the ABC-TV documentary series “Boston 24/7” and is the subject of a documentary film entitled “Amuse Bouche—A Chef’s Tale.” Her television appearances include Top Chef, Today, and as a judge on The Food Network.

Barbara’s first cookbook, Stir: Mixing It Up in the Italian Tradition, was published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt in fall 2009. Stir was received en-thusiastically by both the media and home cooks and received a prestigious Gourmand award for “Best Chef Cookbook” for the United States.

In 2009, Barbara was honored to join Doris Kearns Goodwin and Julia Child as a recipient of the Crittenton Women’s Union’s “Amelia Earhart Award.” In 2011, she was named Distinguished Chef by Johnson and Wales University. She is also a member of notable industry organizations including Women Chefs & Restaurateurs and Les Maîtres Cuisiniers, the international association of Master Chefs. In 2011, Women Chefs & Restaurateurs presented her with the “Barbara Tropp President’s Award.” As a member of the Bocuse d’Or USA Culinary Council, Barbara judged the Bocuse d’Or Commis and Finalist Competition in 2012. Because of her unique story and entrepre-neurial insight, Barbara has had the privilege of participating as a panel-ist and speaker at events including The Ad Club’s Women in Leadership Forum, the Massachusetts Conference for Women, and Women Chefs & Restaurateurs’ National Conference. In 2013, Barbara was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America,” a prestigious group of the most accomplished food and bever-age professionals in the country.

As CEO of Barbara Lynch Gruppo, Barbara oversees the operations of eight concepts and employs over 200 people. In addition to running her company, Barbara has always recognized the importance of giving back to the community and has been involved in a number of philanthropic pro-grams over the years. In 2012, in an effort to make a more direct impact, she established the Barbara Lynch Foundation.

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Ronni BaerSenior Curator of Paintings, Art of Europe

Ronni Baer was awarded a B.A. in French litera-ture from Emory University and received her PhD in art history from the Institute of Fine Arts, NYU. She came to the Museum of Fine Arts in 2000 after having worked in curatorial departments at the Frick Collection, the National Gallery of Art, the Cooper-Hewitt Museum, the High Museum of Art, and the Michael C. Carlos Museum at Emory University. She also taught art history to undergraduate and grad-uate students at NYU, Emory, and the University of Georgia.

Ronni has organized many exhibitions, among them: Gerrit Dou: Master Painter in the Age of Rembrandt for the National Gallery of Art (2000) and, for the MFA, The Poetry of Everyday Life: Dutch Painting in Boston Collections (2002); Rembrandt’s Journey: Painter, Draftsman, Etcher (in collaboration with Cliff Ackley, Tom Rassieur, and Bill Robinson, 2003); and El Greco to Velázquez: Art during the Reign of Philip III (2008).

For her work on the latter, Ronni was awarded the Encomienda de la Orden de Isabel la Católica by King Juan Carlos of Spain. She was the lead cura-tor for the installation of paintings in the recently renovated Koch, Dutch and Flemish, and early Netherlandish galleries at the MFA. She is published widely, most notably on the 17th-century Dutch artist Gerrit Dou, on whose paintings she is an acknowledged authority.

Ronni worked on a major loan exhibition at the MFA in the fall of 2015, devoted to examining how the social classes are depicted in 17th- century Dutch portraits, genre scenes, and landscapes. Ronni was invited to be a Getty Research Institute Guest Museum Scholar in 2013.

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Since 1990, Oldways has been inspiring good health through cultural food traditions.

We began challenging conventional wisdom from the start, introducing the Traditional Mediterranean Diet Pyramid in 1993 (in partnership with the Harvard School of Public Health) as a healthier, tradition–based alternative to the USDA’s first food pyramid.

Throughout the ’90s we educated the public, health professionals, and the media about “healthy fats” at a time when low fat diets were the standard prescription; our work culminated in Scientific Consensus Statements on Moderate Fat Diets in 1998 and 2000. The Oldways Whole Grains Council has helped to increase whole grain consumption through creative edu-cational programs and the Whole Grain Stamp, now found on more than 10,500 products in 55 countries.

At Oldways, nutrition, culture, and sustainability are built into our main mission of preserving and promoting traditional foods in ways that are good for people and good for the planet. To this end, we’ve organized a range of conferences—from scientific ones focusing on the commonsense truth around traditional diets to overseas symposia to introduce chefs, journalists and everyday food lovers to the classic dishes of Morocco, Spain, Tunisia, Italy, Greece, France and Turkey. We develop resources to help consum-ers and health professionals embrace traditional diets and use healthy ingredients. We also founded the Chefs’ Collaborative to support local and sustainable foods in America’s restaurants.

In 2016, as we’ve just celebrated our 25th anniversary, our work continues, much of it carried out through our eight principal programs:

• Oldways Whole Grains Council• Oldways African Health & Heritage / A Taste of African Heritage• A Taste of Latin American Heritage• Oldways Mediterranean Foods Alliance• Oldways Vegetarian Network• Oldways Nutrition Exchange (ONE)• Oldways Supermarket Dietitian Symposium• Oldways Cheese Coalition• Oldways Culinary Travels (Culinarias)

And, in November 2015, we organized the groundbreaking Finding Common Ground conference, asking some of the world’s leading nutrition experts—from Paleo to vegan—to reach consensus on what constitutes a healthy diet. Their 11-point Common Ground Consensus statement inspired our newest tool: the Oldways Cart, included in your program mate-rial for the Culinaria.

Learn more at www.oldwayspt.org.

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The Great Food of Emilia Romagna

IntroductionThere is great food being made all over Italy, but I can’t think of another place where food comes to the table as proudly as it does in Emilia Romagna. And it’s not a noisy bragadocio…it’s simply… “this is what we do. This is what my grandmother did.” I know, I know, that’s not uncom-mon in Italy…but the scale of this attitude in Emilia Romagna, and the percentage of chefs and restaurants that really do hit the sublime, tradition-al spot, consistently…in my mind, these things set the whole region apart.

Sure, there’s lots of creative food in Emilia Romagna, as everywhere. They have a top-ten-list molecular palace for chrissake, Osteria Francescana, three Michelin stars and all. But even there, there’s tagliatelle Bolognese on the menu. When you look behind most of the creative frou-frou in Emilia Romagna, you find it’s the soul of the region that anchors many dishes. The supremely powerful connection of chefs to their homeland can never be abandoned or improved upon here.

David Rosengarten Forbes, November 28, 2013

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Prosciutto di ParmaThe World’s Most Sought-After HamFragrant and sweet, Prosciutto di Parma is one of the world’s most sought-after hams. It can be produced only in the hills of Parma province in an area des-ignated by law. Cured solely with salt and aged 10 months to 2 years, each step of the process is dictated by law and overseen by the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma. To qualify as a true Parma ham, the meat must have the brand of Parma’s five-pointed ducal crown seared into its side.


Pork, Salt, Air and Time: The Long Road to Prosciutto di ParmaThe curing cellar at Pio Tosini unfolds in more directions than the eye can see. Salted hams hang on floor-to-ceiling racks in long corridors, each a mirror image of the next. It’s vast and eerily still, but undeniably alive; I feel as though I’ve been swept into a current of silent, invisible activity. A molecular ecosystem is hard at work here, a partnership of mountain breezes, enzymatic reactions, and microorganisms that will, with time, transform each leg of pork into coveted Prosciutto di Parma. The smell is

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overpowering, a riot of yeast and funk, and the air is saline-sweet, slightly piney, and crisp. Light washes in from open windows, breaking into jagged shadows on the floor. Pio Tosini is a cathedral, and its god is Ham.

Niki Achitoff-Gray Seriouseats.com

How Prosciutto di Parma is ProducedNearly a third of all Italian pigs’ legs are made into Prosciutto di Parma. By law the pigs used must be a minimum of nine months old and weigh in at between 340 and 420 pounds. More mature pigs, those that are about a year old, are preferable and more costly—their meat is denser and less likely to absorb too much salt. The diet of the animals is dictated by Consorzio standards; they must spend their final four months in north-cen-tral Italy, where they eat corn, barley and whey left behind from the produc-tion of Parmigiano Reggiano. No drugs can be used at all in the weeks be-fore slaughtering. All incoming fresh hams are tattooed with the province, farm, and date of slaughter. The Consorzio inspects the hams for quality; each leg that passes is riveted with a metal insignia proving official Parma certification, then stamped with the date on which production began.

Ari Weinzweig Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating (2003)

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Parmigiano ReggianoParmigiano Reggiano: A Symbol of Culture and CivilizationThe respect and desire to protect a natural environment—one which in many ways still conserves intact a centuries-old equilibrium—deserves encouragement. We must foster the development of a natural cycle that will result in a product with nutritional values that will be increasingly appreciated not only in tradition-al cuisine, but in alimentation in general. We must proceed with care so that the patrimony of this antique civilization—safeguarded in the day-to-day acts and gestures of Parmigiano Reggiano producers—may endure as testi-mony to the civilized values of the world of agriculture and to delight and satisfy future generations.

Franco Bonilauri Parmigiano Reggiano: A Symbol of Culture and Civilization (1993)

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Buying Primo Parmigiano ReggianoAlthough the Parmigiano Reggiano pin dots tell you that the cheese was made according to Consorzio specifications, they don’t tell you whether what you’re buying is great or just good. Here are a few other tips for the taste-conscious consumer.

Buy Pieces Cut from Whole WheelsGenerally, shops that sell a relatively small volume are caught in a bind. They want to keep their cheese fresh, so they buy in quarter wheels. In my experience, however, the cheese that comes from these precut and vac-uum-packed pieces is generally not the best. Even less desirable are the precut one-pound wedges that are packed in Italy and shipped overseas in plastic casings.

Soup Bones for Vegetarians: Reggiano RindsRinds from Parmigiano Reggiano are the absolute best thing you’ll ever add to soup stock, sauce, or broth. The rind on a wheel of Parmigiano is merely dried cheese: no wax, no coloring, no additives. So when you throw it into your stock, it’s essentially like adding a bit of cheese. The rind adds enor-mous flavor and richness to whatever you’re cooking. When the stock is done, simply fish it out, and then with a sharp knife (carefully) cut off any cheese that’s softened up enough to take off. Chop the cheese and add it to whatever you’re cooking. If you like, you can even cool off the rest of the rind, wrap in foil, and save it to use in a second batch of soup.

Look for the Special SealEach dairy has the option of asking (and paying for) the Consorzio inspec-tors to return and recheck what it feels are its best cheeses for certification as “Extra Quality” (or, alternatively, “Export Quality”). The seal shows that the cheese is completely free of physical defects that might damage aroma or flavor. These cheeses do cost more, but they have no internal or exter-nal faults and are likely to contain more flavorful cheese. This seal won’t guarantee incredible cheese every time because there are still significant differences in flavor from one wheel to the next, but it will get you close more often than not.

Check the Month and Year of MakingThis date is stamped into the side of all wheels of Parmigiano so any shop that buys whole wheels should be able to tell you. It’s in Italian: for instance, GEN is Gennaio, or January; MAG is Maggio, or May; GIU is Giugno, or June; LUG is Luglio, or July. Remember, you want cheese that’s been aged through two summers. If it’s a spring or winter cheese, it should be aged at least eighteen months. If it’s an autumn cheese, it should be more than two years old.

Cheeses that have been aged for three or even four years are more intense than younger cheeses, which are soft and gentle. By local standards, the best Parmigiano Reggiano is sweet, mellow, and mild. As locals see it, Parmigiano should always complement, never overwhelm. Most turn up

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their noses at stronger cheeses, shipping them to the south of Italy, where the preference is for Parmigiano with more piquancy.

Get a TasteTaste is the key. Almost every piece of Parmigiano starts out tasting good. But the best don’t stop there. They seem to have a fourth dimension, build-ing until they fill every inch of your mouth with rich, complex, buttery, nut-ty, pleasantly sweet Parmigiano flavor. There’s a liveliness in these cheeses that’s lacking in lesser versions. They’re crackly, crunchy, and creamy all at the same time.


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PastaTraditionPasta in Emilia Romagna speaks of many things—traditions of birth, mar-riage, and even death; centuries of Christmases, Easters and saints’ days, each celebrated with its special dish. Pasta speaks of geographic origin and even of a family’s social status. Pasta wittily expresses anticlerical sentiments without a word being spoken. It is steeped in legend, sometimes quite sensuous legend at that. And pasta often is so entrenched in tradition that one misstep in its preparation or presentation can outrage the most accommodating diners.

Those traditions have passed from hands to hands, through centuries of daughters watching mothers make pasta. Pasta is the food of women. Until very recently, while a woman in Emilia Romagna could command acco-lades for many achievements, making superb pasta headed the list.

Tortellini, Tortelli & AnoliniAlthough tortellini are eaten in other parts of Italy, Bologna claims them as her own. An old Bolognese legend tells of the days when the gods walked the earth, and Venus and Zeus paused for the night at a small inn near Bologna. The innkeeper was so enchanted by the goddess that just before dawn, he peeked into her bedroom. There she lay on the bed, with sheets tossed aside, sprawled in exquisite disarray. The humble man wondered how he, an illiterate, a mere cook and innkeeper, could pay compliment to such beauty. He went into his kitchen, and shortly after sunrise he emerged with a tribute to the goddess. He had modeled the little tortellino after Venus’s navel. Even now in Bologna, the pasta’s nickname is “sacred navels” (umbilichi sacri).

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No matter what the local variations are, however, making tortellini or cappelletti on Christmas Eve is a rite that has united women from Modena to Rimini for at least 150 years. The ritual begins when the entire fami-ly gathers for an afternoon of stretching, filling, and shaping pasta. The finished pastas are then spread on a cloth-covered table where they will rest—as though on an altar, as one chronicler of regional folkways put it. On Christmas afternoon they “die nobly” in capon broth. When the big tureen of tortellini/cappelletti is brought forth from the kitchen, the feast of Christmas officially begins.

Tortellini are not found north of Modena. In Parma rectangular tortelli have some of the significance of Bologna’s tortellini. They can be filled with sweet squash, cabbage, potato, spiced fruit or chestnuts, but Tortelli d’Er-bette, rectangles of pasta stuffed with ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, and mild greens, are the most popular.

Anolini are Parma’s other specialty. These small discs or half moons are filled with the braising juices of a beef pot roast cooked up to three days, butter-toasted bread crumbs, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Anolini are always served in broth.


Parma DishThe Parma dish is Melanzane alla Parmigiana (Eggplant Parmesan), but in the four renditions I have found from Parma, only one calls for the area’s famous cheese. Obviously the name means eggplant as cooked in Parma, not eggplant with Parmesan cheese. Parma food historian Guglielmo Capacchi dashes a local theory that eggplant made its debut in Parma during the 1600s, when ducal cook Carlo Nascia brought it from south-ern Italy. According to Capacchi, old records tell of eggplant being eaten in Emilia during the 13th century. But the proof gets even better, claims Capacchi. It was recorded in the 14th century that a medical teacher in Bologna, Master Taddeo, stated emphatically to his students the accepted medical fact of the day: Eat eggplant for nine days straight and you will go mad. (Some etymologists believe melanzane derives from “apple [mela] of

madness [insano].”) True to the spirit of inquiry, one stu-dent performed the experiment. At the end of the ninth day, convinced Taddeo would be amazed, he announced to his teacher and fellow students that he was not mad. Taddeo remained unperturbed, simply commanding his class to write down a new margin note: “The eggplant theory has been tested and is not true.”


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Majestically Modena and Basically Balsamico

Fancy cars, fabulous opera singers, rich Lambrusco, sensational food, and adorable people. What more can one say about Modena? Aceto balsam-ico, that’s what. Balsamic vinegar has been all the rage since it was first introduced to the world. But like many great food products, it is little un-derstood and badly misused. Calling aceto balsamico vinegar is like calling Pavarotti a street singer. Aceto balsamico is an ambrosial liquid that is used as a condiment to exalt almost anything it touches: Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, potatoes, meat, poultry, even strawberries.

Fred Plotkin Italy for the Gourmet Traveler (1996)

Aceto Balsamico TradizionaleThe Truth About Balsamic VinegarThere’s a pretty good chance that you’ve never had balsamic vinegar (or, as the Italians call it, aceto balsamico). What?!? you exclaim. Of course you have! You’ve had it on your pan-zanella, on your salade Niçoise, on your chef’s salad. You’ve dribbled it on fish, on meat, on chicken, on tofu. You use it every day. It’s the Blue Nun of condiments. It goes with every-thing. You can’t imagine how you ever got along without it…

But yet you did. What you’ve been using is most probably a product called Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which is usually just commercially produced wine vinegar with a bit more character than usual.

The real balsamic vinegar is, in its purest form, one of the great culinary wonders of the world—rich, sweet, spicy, honeyed, nectarous (but with a faint bite). As produced in the rural precincts of the province of Modena in north-central Italy, it begins not with wine (like most vinegars) but with the juice of local Trebbiano grapes, boiled down to a sweet syrup. Yeast con-verts the syrup first into alcohol, then into acetic acid (vinegar)—but much of its sweetness is preserved along the way. Then the vinegar is aged, for decades and even longer, in a succession of small barrels made from a variety of woods.

Balsamic vinegar is a family treasure in Modena, and a national treasure as well. The Italian government grants it the same sort of Denominazione di Origine Controllata that it gives to wine, guaranteeing its authenticity. All

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balsamic vinegar of this sort, which is called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (tradizionale is the important word), is bottled at a single con-sortium in the region, in flasks holding not quite three-and-a-half ounces. Some of them cost as much as $100 each—more when they’re older.

Saveur magazine January 23, 2007

The Real Thing: Aceto Balsamico TradizionaleLike the real thing, the subject of balsamic vinegar is complex, intricate, and shrouded in intentional and unintentional mystery. Even for someone as stubborn as I am, it’s not easy to penetrate the mysteries that emanate from Modena.

Unlike most vinegars on the market that are made from wine, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale never lives any part of its life as a wine. Rather, it starts with the must—the fresh juice—of the local grapes, and hence it is not a “wine vinegar.” Each maker uses his own blend of grapes, but Trebbiano is the most widely used variety, with Sperfola, Trebiano di Spagna, Occhio di Gatto, red Lambrusco, and/or Berzemino sometimes added into the mix.

Once the grapes are gathered, they’re cleaned and carefully crushed. The freshly-pressed juice is poured into open copper kettles (some produc-ers now use stainless steel), then cooked down over wood fires until it is noticeably thicker than wine but still thinner than maple syrup. The cooking should be conducted the same day that the grapes are crushed in order to sterilize the liquid and avoid any unplanned fermentation. The vinegar maker takes care to cook the must slowly so that there is no caramelization or burning of the natural sugars in the grape juice; burned must will lead to bitter balsamic.

Depending on the flavor they’re looking for, the makers will vary the cooking times. “We cook for twelve to twenty hours if we want a more acid product, and thirty-six to forty hours if we want a sweeter one,” one pro-ducer told me. In the process the cooked must—known as mosto cotto—is reduced to between a half and a third of its original volume. Different pro-ducers shoot for different levels of reduction, all a part of their master plan. Although longer cooking would produce a denser vinegar, it is not desirable to thicken the must in this way. If the must is too thick, it won’t successfully seal the barrels, the vinegar will leak, and the flavor will be overly sweet.

The reduced must is then shifted into large wooden barrels or steel tanks, where the next stage of production, the fermentation and acetification,

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begins. Some producers hold the must here to acidify and mature for two, three, or even four years. Others use it within a matter of months. At whatever point the vinegar maker is ready, the must is allowed to enter the batteria, the well-worn wooden barrels in which it will continue its transfor-mation. A bit of old vinegar is blended with the new must, and the mixture is put into the largest barrel in a series to continue development.

Aging of Aceto Balsamico TradizionaleOne key to the aging of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is that the maturing rooms must never be artificially heated or cooled. Like the region’s ex-ceptional Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and its exquisite Parma ham, part of the vinegar’s character building comes from natural climatic swings. In the cool winter months, bacteriological activity in the balsamic is almost nonexistent. The vinegar rests, while moisture evaporates slowly. As the weather warms in spring, the acetobacters in the vinegar gradually pick up the pace. The activity approaches its height in July and August, the hottest months of the year in Modena. The process gradually slows down again through the autumn until the acetobacters reach near hibernation levels in mid-winter. Attic spaces are optimal for this aging because they exaggerate these natural temperature swings.

It’s important to understand that in the world of balsamic there is absolutely no such thing as a vintage. While commercial balsamics almost always claim some specific number of years of aging on their label, you’ll never see one on a bottle of Tradizionale. At best the makers will tell you about when the vinegar in question was started. In truth, no traditional balsamic vinegar ever really gets a fresh start; any time newly-reduced grape must is added to a barrel, there’s still a significant amount of the old vinegar inside. So even the youngest Tradizionale has a bit of ancient, aristocratic blood in its veins.


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Great Places of Emilia Romagna

Castle of TorrechiaraSet on a high perch overlooking the Parma valley, Torrechiara is one of the best preserved fortifications in the whole region. It was built between 1448 and 1460 by Pier Maria Rossi, who had it girded with a triple wall and four corner towers linked by battlemented parapets. Two loggias on the east side were added later. Inside, a fine square bailey abut on arcades and windows trimmed with elaborate Lombard-style terracotta moldings.

The most striking among the decorated rooms is the Camera d’Oro (Golden Room), named after the pure gold that once trimmed the terracotta medallions set into the wall, whose fresco cycle dating to 1462 and attributed to Benedetto Bembo depicts a tale of courtly love and chivalry, recounting the story of Pier Maria Rossi’s passion for Bianca Pellegrini. It also carries two entwined hearts and the initials of Bianca and Pier Maria joined by a ribbon bearing the motto "Nunc et semper." The Camera d’Oro looks onto the deep loggia built in late sixteenth century, when the castle lost its defensive purpose and was transformed into a lordly manor.

Parma TourismTeatro Farnese

The Teatro Farnese (Farnese Theatre) is one of the most breath-taking sites in all of Parma if not of Italy. Built in 1618 by order of Ranuccio I, Duke of Parma and Piacenza, and designed by the Ferrarese architect, Giovan Battista Aleotti; the theatre was built to cel-ebrate the passing of Cosimo II de’ Medici through Parma on his way to Milan to visit the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo and to confirm

the relationship between the two ducal families which had been sealed by marriage in 1615.

However due to health problems, Cosimo II de’ Medici cancelled the pro-posed trip to Milan and therefore the theatre could only be inaugurated 10 years later in 1628 for the marriage between Margherita de’ Medici and

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Duke Odoardo. For the occasion the theatre hosted the “Mercurio e Marte” (Mercury and Mars) by Claudio Achillini and music by Claudio Monteverdi. The climax of the spectacle came with a extraordinary “naumachia” (naval battle) for which they flooded the platea of the theatre via a number of pumps located underneath the stage. The theatre also featured a balcony for the dukes, perhaps the the invention of what would become common place in the greatest theatres around the world: the Royal Booth.

The Farnese Theatre was built entirely out of wood and plaster and then painted so it seemed to be made of expensive marbles. Unfortunately the Theatre was subject to bombing in May 1944 and was almost complete-ly destroyed. However by 1956, the theatre was completely restructured using the original design. The sections that were restructured were left bare so as to highlight the extent of the damage.

Due to the complicated nature and the extremely high expenses needed to put on a show in the theatre it was only used nine times from its inaugu-ration, mostly for ducal marriages or important state visits. The last show dates back to 1732, after which it is left to ruin until the bombardment of 1944. In between this time, many greats came to visit the theatre and express their complete surprise at its beauty, among them Montesquieu, de Brosses, and Dickens. All of them, however, also expressed displeasure at the state of the wonderful theatre, Dickens actually writing about it in his “Picture from Italy.”

The theatre is part of the incredible “Palazzo Pilotta” in Parma and is part of the attractions in the “Galleria Nazionale”.

Bologna Magazine

Piazza Duomo ParmaThe Cathedral of Parma is from 900 years a place of art, history, and sacredness. Here are preserved the bas-reliefs by Benedetto Antelami, the Romanesque art heritage and the grand frescoes by Antonio Allegri, known as Correggio. Entering into this place means living the faith, opening up to art and discovering one of the most precious treasures of the city.

ConstructionBuilding of the Cathedral began in 1074 under Bishop-Count Guibodo, fol-lowing the terrible fire that destroyed the previous early Christian basilica.

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Since then it has always been a symbol of the lively religious tradition of the city, but also a monumental work of art, which through the centuries has been enriched with priceless treasures. Here the essential nature of Romanesque sculpture coexists with the sumptuousness of Renaissance painting, creating one of the most fascinating places of worship in the Emilia region.

Cupola of CorreggioThe Assumption of the Virgin by Correggio is a grandiose work of prospective, where light, com-position and movement blend in a masterpiece of visual illusion-ism. Somewhere between the Renaissance pictorial language and the audacity of Baroque art, this cupola was soon pronounced to be “scandalous” by some contem-porary critics. What particularly strikes the observer is the Assumption of Mary to heaven: a whirling tangle of figures that accompany the Virgin towards the circle of the blessed. At the centre of the cupola is Christ, who descends from the light in a pose whose plasticity was incredibly innovative at the time.

Piazzaduomo.com

RavennaFor mosaic lovers, Ravenna is an earthly paradise. Spread out over several churches and baptisteries around town is one of the world’s most dazzling collections of early Christian mosaic artwork, enshrined since 1996 on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Wandering through the unassuming town centre today, you’d never imagine that for a three-century span beginning in 402, Ravenna served as capital of the Western Roman Empire, chief city of the Ostrogoth Kingdom of Italy and nexus of a powerful Byzantine

exarchate. During this prolonged golden age, while the rest of the Italian peninsula flailed in the wake of Barbarian invasions, Ravenna became a fertile art studio for skilled crafts-men, who covered the city’s terracotta brick churches in heart rendingly beautiful mosaics.

Lonely Planet

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ModenaThis ancient town on the south side of the Po Valley is home to the mighty Ferrari, yet it boasts more bikes than cars. A vibrant, walkable town centre, with no end of cultural highlights, makes it an ideal place for a day trip. Modena is a little town that punches well above its weight. Located on the via Emilia, the famous Roman road that stretches from Piacenza to Rimini, it became one of the most important principalities in Italy when the d’Este family moved their powerful dukedom here from Ferrara in 1598. The streets, some of which are named after the medieval canal system that once helped strengthen Modena’s trade system, offer wonderfully circular routes around the town’s treasures and, because there are more bikes than cars, the pace of life is slow and relaxed.

The elegant porticoed arcades of the via Emilia house great window-shop-ping opportunities as you make your way to the town centre and the cobbled piazza Grande, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A market was held here from medieval times right up until 1931 in full view of the town’s jewel, the 11th-century Duomo, dedicated to Modena’s patron saint, Saint Geminianus, and one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe. Although work started in 1099, the Duomo wasn’t consecrated until 1184 by Pope Lucius III.

Jan Fuscoe Bologna Magazine

BolognaScrappy, scruffy Bologna could easily coast on its history, if not just on its culinary history. Home to one of the world’s oldest universities, this north-ern Italian city has contributed dozens of classic recipes and foods to the repertory of Italian cooking, including tortellini, tagliatelle and mortadel-la—the cold cut whose imitation is known as “Bologna”—as well as ragù Bolognese. As the capital of the region of, Bologna is one of the best places to sample the cheeses, cured hams and vinegars that originate in the area, many of which have been famous for centuries. But modern Bologna is not just about the past. Dozens of cool new attractions have changed the face of the city, from new ways of eating to new museums and new bars.

New York Times September 30, 2015

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Emilia Romagna Culinaria

Hotel and Restaurants

Grand Hotel de la Ville and Ristorante ParmigiainoLargo Piero Calamandrei, 11, Parma39 0521 0304

Ristorante CocchiVia Gramsci, 16/A, 43126 Parma39 0521 98199

Angiol d’OrVia Scutellari, 1, Parma39 0521 282632

Academia Barilla, 3/ALargo Piero Calamandrei,43121 Parma39 0521 26 40 60

Masticabrodo TrattoriaStrada Provinciale Torrechiara, Pilastro di Langhirano39 0521 639110

Antica Corte PallavicinaStrada Palazzo due Torri, 3, Polesine Parmense PR39 0524 936539

Il FantinoVia Donzi, 7, Modena39 059 223646

Trattoria del DucatoVia N. Paganini, 5, Parma39 0521 486730

Parma Restaurant ListTrattoria Ai Due PlataniVia Budellungo 104a | loc. 39 0521 645626A little bit out of town out in the country, a warm and cozy favorite of locals and travelers. Features traditional dishes of Emilia Romagna prepared with local, seasonal ingredients (reservation required a day in advance). La ForchettaBorgo San Biagio, 6/D+39 0521 208 812Known for seafood and traditional cuisine of Parma. Very nice and warm restaurant in the heart of Parma (reservation required a day in advance). La FilomaBorgo XX Marzo, 15+39 0521 206 181Formal traditional restaurant fea-turing the cuisine of Parma in the historical narrow medieval roads. Trattoria del TribunaleVicolo Politi, 5+39 0521 285 527Local, cozy, traditional, lots of fun. Here you can find locals and tourists together to enjoy a typical Emilian meal!

Osteria dello ZingaroBorgo del Correggio, 5B39 0521 207483Traditional trattoria for a casual dinner well prepared and definitely typical! Locals say the best here is the raw horse meat, very special!

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Barbara Lynch’s Recipes

Torta Fritta

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1¼ teaspoon salt3 tablespoons lard1 1⁄3 oz fresh yeast1¼ cups warm milkOil or lard for deep frying

Sift the flour and salt into a warm bowl and rub in the softened lard. Dissolve the yeast in a little of the milk and work it into the flour, together with enough of the remaining milk to make a firm, pliable dough, and vig-orously unit the dough is smooth and leaves the sides of the bowl cleanly. Roll it into a ball, cover the bowl and leave in a warm place to rise.

When the dough has doubled in bulk, punch it down and knead it again lightly. Roll it into a sheet about 1⁄8 inch thick and cut into diamond shapes with a floured pastry cutter or a sharp knife. Arrange the shapes on a clean cloth sprinkled with flour and leave it to rise again.

Heat the lard or oil—enough for fairly deep frying—and fry the fritters until they are puffed and golden brown on both sides. Drain on absorbent paper.

Serve with thinly sliced lardo, fresh figs, and toasted pistachios.

Serves 4-6

Shrimp Scampi4½ pounds shrimp5 tablespoon breadcrumbs2 cloves garlic, finely minced3–4 sprigs parsley, finely chopped8 tablespoon olive oilSalt FlourOil for deep frying

Clean and devein the shrimp, make the incision a little deeper than neces-sary as this will serve as our stuffing location. Mix the breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley and olive oil into a paste; season with salt. Put a little of this mix-ture into the incisions in the shrimp. Dust them with flour and fry quickly in deep oil (375°F). Drain on absorbent paper and serve hot.

Serves 6

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Lasagna BolognesiFresh Pasta Dough rolled into sheets on the thinnest setting

(recipe below doubled)Bolognese Sauce (recipe below doubled)1 recipe Béchamel Sauce (recipe below)1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Butter a 13x9" baking dish. Cover the bottom with a layer of pasta, spread it thinly with béchamel sauce and Bolognese sauce, and sprinkle it with a tablespoon of grated Parmesan. Continue building layers until all the in-gredients are used up. The top layer should be one of pasta sprinkled with grated cheese.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake covered for 1 hour. Uncover and bake another 20-30 minutes until a light golden crust has formed on top. Allow the lasa-gna to rest 30 to 40 minutes.

Serves 6-8

Fresh Pasta DoughYields about 1 pound pasta; serves 4 to 6.

I’m always playing with my fresh pasta dough, so it’s tough to pin me down on an actual recipe. I’d love to use all egg yolks, which makes the pasta incredibly tender. But at the restaurant, that can get expensive. Plus, for people who don’t make fresh pasta all of the time (which probably includes most home cooks), an all-yolk dough can be trickier to work with. This recipe, made with two whole eggs and four yolks, is a nice balance between tenderness and ease of handling.

Unless you’re whiz a with a rolling pin, you’ll want to thin the dough in a pasta machine (the kind that rolls dough, not the pasta extruder you see on infomercials). A hand cranked one works fine (if tediously), while a motor-ized one gets the job done faster and more efficiently; if you already have a Kitchen Aid, you might consider buying the pasta roller attachment.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, more as needed1 teaspoon kosher salt2 whole eggs4 egg yolks

Combine the flour and the salt on a clean work surface. If it’s not already in a small mound, gather it into one. Use your fist and a circular motion to transform the mound into a wide well. Crack the whole eggs into the center of the well and add the yolks. Beat the eggs with a fork just as you would to make scrambled eggs. Very gradually, incorporate some of the flour into the eggs by bringing in a little at a time from the perimeter of the well. Be

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careful not to break through the wall of the well or the egg will race out all over the counter, a total bummer. When the dough becomes too stiff to mix with a fork, use your fingers to work the eggs and flour together, only adding enough of the flour to make a cohesive ball of dough. You may not need to use all of the flour, and the actual amount you use will vary every time you make fresh pasta depending on your eggs, flour, and even the weather. To see if you have added enough flour, press a clean, dry finger deep into the dough. If nothing sticks to your finger, your dough is in good shape. If not, work in a little more flour now or, if it feels close, as you knead the dough.

Move the dough over to one side and scrape your work area clean of any excess flour, especially any hardened bits, and then clean your hands as well. Lightly re-flour the surface and knead the dough by pushing it away from you with the heel of your hand, folding it over, giving it a quarter turn, and pushing it away again. Continue kneading, adding a sprinkling of flour if the dough feels sticky, until it feels as soft and supple as your ear lobe; this can take 5 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle the dough with a little flour, wrap it in plastic or a cloth, and let it rest for a half hour before rolling it.

To thin the dough, set your pasta machine to its widest setting. Cut the dough in half and keep the rest wrapped while you work. Roll the dough lightly in flour and then flatten it into a rectangle that is roughly the width of your pasta machine. Run the dough through the machine at this setting twice to give the dough a final kneading.

Set the machine to its next thinnest setting and run the dough through. Continue running the dough through the machine’s settings so that the dough gets progressively thinner each time; you don’t have to hit every setting on the dial as is so often insisted, but do thin the dough gradually. If you run the dough through the machine and it shreds or tears or is too thin, simply fold it over and run it through a wider setting to smooth it out. If your dough sticks, you can flour it well without worry; the dough will not incorporate too much flour at this point.

As the length of the dough increases, you may find it a little unwieldy. With an electric (as opposed to hand cranked) pasta machine, you can stand pretty far away and gather the dough as it comes out of the machine, gently folding it over onto itself, so it looks like ribbon candy. Or you can cut long shorter lengths with a sharp knife and run each piece through the setting. Whatever works best for you.

For most pastas, you want to roll the dough until it’s very thin like a silk scarf; if you hold it up to the light you can see your hand through it. On some pasta machines this will mean the thinnest setting; on others it may be the second thinnest.

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Bolognese Sauce1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil1 medium onion, finely chopped1 large celery stalk, finely chopped1 large carrot, finely chopped5 ounces chicken livers, trimmed and finely chopped¼ cup chopped fresh sageKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper1½ pounds ground meat, preferably ½ pound each of veal, pork, and lamb1½ cups dry red wine1½ cups chicken broth or beef broth1 14½-ounce can (1½ cups) chopped canned tomatoes½ cup chopped fresh basil½ cup heavy cream, or more to taste (optional)

Heat the oil in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the chicken livers and sage, season with a little salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the livers lose their red color, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the ground meat in batches, letting it brown a little before adding more. Season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring, until no red or pink color remains. Pour off most of the fat. Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and boil, stirring occasionally to break up any clumps of meat, until the wine is almost gone, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the broth, tomatoes, and basil. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat to a gentle simmer; you should see an occasional bubble but not a boil. Cook, uncovered, until the sauce is thick, dark, and rich, for at least 1 hour. (You can keep cooking it longer over low heat, and it will only get better.) Stir in the cream, if using, and simmer for at least another 10 minutes to heat it through; longer is fine.

Béchamel Sauce6 tablespoons unsalted butter6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour flour1 teaspoons salt5 cups hot milk

Melt the butter over low heat in a pan. Whisk in the flour and salt to make a roux. Cook gently for a few minutes without allowing it to color. Gradually whisk in hot milk, stirring constantly. Continue cooking and whisking until the sauce is thick and smooth, and the raw taste of the flour has completely disappeared. Season to taste.

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Braised Beef RibsThough this recipe is a pretty traditional take on classic braised short ribs, I cook them longer and at a lower temperature than most recipes call for, which makes them so tender the meat practically melts in your mouth. The deeply flavored sauce is easy to make by simply simmering the brais-ing liquid until it is very much reduced, which intensifies its flavor and thickens it. A pat of butter and a little thyme swirled in just before serving are all it needs. This is a great dish for company because you can make it a day or two ahead and it only tasted the better for it. The trick to making short ribs is not to take them out of the oven until you can easily pull the meat away from the bone.

6–8 pounds meaty, bone in short ribsKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons grapeseed or canola oil, plus more if needed1 large spanish onion, chopped3 celery stalks, peeled and chopped1 large carrot, peeled and chopped1 head garlic, separated into individual cloves and peeled1 750-ml bottle dry red wine6 fresh thyme sprigs 4 bay leaves1 tablespoon black peppercorns1 tablespoon coriander seeds1 tomato, chopped6 cups low-sodium beef broth or chicken broth1 tablespoon unsalted butter1½ tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves

Heat the oven to 250°F. Sprinkle a good amount of salt and some pep-per all over the ribs. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the rib in batches if necessary, on all sides. Be sure there is room around the ribs so that they sear instead of steam, and be patient, turning them only after they have browned on one side; the browning step should take 10 to 12 minutes total.

As the ribs are browned, transfer them to a deep baking dish or Dutch oven large enough to accommodate the meat and braising liquid. Leave about 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat in the skillet and pour off any excess. Return the pan to medium high heat and add the onion, celery, carrot, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are tender and nicely browned, about 8 minutes. Add the red wine, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, coriander, and tomato and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a boil, and pour the liquid over the ribs in the baking dish. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and cook in the oven until fork tender, 4 to 5 hours; some of the meat may fall off the bones, which is okay, though the ribs look more dramatic on the plate if still on the bone.

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Let the meat cool in the braising liquid until it is almost room temperature. Transfer the ribs, meat side down to another baking dish. Strain the brais-ing liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a large saucepan. Ladle some of the braising liquid over the ribs to keep moist; you want about ½ inch of liquid in the dish. If serving the ribs immediately, spoon of any fat you can see on the surface of the braising liquid. If not serving right away, refriger-ate the ribs and the braising liquid separately, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve. You can then remove the fat that has solidified on top of the cooled liquid.

To serve, heat the oven to 300°F. Bring the defatted braising liquid to a simmer over medium heat and cook, skimming occasionally, until reduced to about 1 ½ cups, about 30 minutes. You don’t want the liquid to come to a rolling boil, but you do want to see tiny bubbles coming to the surface. Meanwhile, gently reheat the ribs in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes. Just be-fore serving, whisk the butter and chopped thyme leaves into the reduced liquid. Divide the ribs among six plates and top with the sauce.

Serves 6

Pepper en Sour3 red bell peppers3 yellow bell peppers3 hot peppers, such as jalapeño2 cups balsamic vinegarOlive oilKosher salt

Remove the seeds and ribs (white part inside) from the peppers. Julienne the bell peppers, and cut the jalapeño into small dice. Saute peppers in olive oil until tender. If your vinegar is on the thin side, the consistency of water, reduce it by half. If it is a high quality aged vinegar and is already concentrated, the consistency of maple syrup, use it as is. Add vinegar to peppers and cook another 5 to 8 minutes until the peppers have taken up the vinegar.

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Creamy Semolina4 cups milk1 cup semolina6 tablespoon unsalted butter½ cup mascarponeKosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

In a large saucepan, bring the milk to a gentle simmer. Rain in the semolina slowly, whisking all the while to prevent clumping. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add 3 teaspoons of the butter, season with 2 teaspoons salt and a few grinds of pepper, and let the semolina cook gently, stirring occasionally, until it's thick and the semolina is cooked through, about 45 minutes. Stir in the remaining butter and then the mascarpone and cook an additional 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with more salt and pepper if needed, and serve.

Serves 4-6

Ravioli di San Giuseppe1 cup plus 2 tablespoons potato flour1 cup all-purpose flour3 tablespoons unsalted butter6 tablespoons granulated sugarPinch of salt2 whole eggs, beaten separatelyZest of one lemonPinch cream of tartar¼ teaspoon baking soda2½ tablespoons whole milk½ cup powdered sugarStrawberry jamLemon custardButter for baking sheet

Sift the flours into to a bowl and cut in the butter. Add the sugar, salt, 1 beaten egg, lemon zest, cream of tartar and baking soda dissolved in milk. Mix to a firm dough and knead well. Cover the bowl and leave in the refrig-erator for 1 hour.

Roll the dough out very thinly and cut into circle about 2 inches in diame-ter. Put a teaspoon of jam (or custard) on each circle and fold in half. Seal the edges well. Arrange the ravioli on a buttered baking sheet, brush with the remaining egg, and bake in 350°F oven for about 30 minutes. Cool and serve, dusted with powdered sugar

Serves 4–6

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Participants

Timothy Barberich (Boston, MA)Robert Barnes (West Newton, MA)Priscilla Beadle (Hull, MA)Judith Berg (Visalia, CA)Lisa Blizard (Dover, MA)Diane Bodman (North Palm Beach,

FL)Marlys Boehm (Santa Barbara, CA)John Bondur (University Park, FL)Kathy Bondur (University Park, FL)Thomas Bondur (Fremont, CA)Eugene Briskman (Brookline, MA)Susan Briskman (Brookline, MA)M. Laurie Cammisa (Bethesda, MD)Joyce Easter (Kittery Point, ME)Jennifer Egener (Dover, MA)Steven Elmets (Brookline, MA)Margot Flouton (West Newton, MA)Eileen Gebrian (Boston, MA)Audrey Giannattasio (Chelsea, MA)Sandra King (Sudbury, MA)Marilyn Koblan (Brookline, MA)Tali Kwatcher (Dover, MA)Alex Laffy (Salem, MA)

Cynthia Luckoski (Fremont, CA)David Macaulay (Hull, MA)Virginia Macaulay (Hull, MA)Barbara Marotto (Clarence Center,

NY)Helen Mehrkens (Auke Bay, AK)Max Morrow (Somerville, MA)Sandra Morrow (Somerville, MA)Maryanne Muller (Needham, MA)Rodney Ono (Hilo, HI)Ardis Ono (Hilo, HI)Patricia Parham (Camarillo, CA)Mary Piltch (Needham, MA)Elizabeth Reilinger (Boston, MA)Ariella Rosengard (Chestnut Hill,

MA)Robert Ruppel (Jackson, NH)Alshamsha Samji (Jackson, NH)Charles Schoendorf (Rowayton, CT)Laura Schroeder (Sherborn, MA)Robert Tunis (Sudbury, MA)George Webber (Kittery Point, ME)Nancy Wheatley (Boston, MA)

Hosts, Culinary Experts, Art Expert & GuidesOldwaysSara Baer-Sinnott, President, Oldways (Boston, MA) Abby Sloane, Program and Financial Manager, Oldways (Boston, MA)Sara Fetbroth, General Manager, Oleana (Cambridge, MA)

Barbara Lynch GruppoBarbara Lynch, Chef/Owner, Barbara Lynch Gruppo (Boston, MA)Michele Carter, Executive Chef, Barbara Lynch Gruppo (Boston, MA)Abby Gregory, Director of Business Analysis, Barbara Lynch Gruppo (Boston, MA)

Art ExpertRonni Baer, Senior Curator of Paintings, European Art, Museum of Fine Arts (Boston, MA)

In ItalyAlice Rossi, Tour Guide (Parma, Italy)Fabio Bergonzini, Tour Guide (Modena and Bologna, Italy)Giada Rubinato, Tour Guide (Bologna, Italy)Camilla Calò, Tour Guide (Bologna, Italy)

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AcknowledgementsOur work has many mothers and fathers, brothers and sisters, and we are thankful to more than a few people for their help in organizing Oldways’ Emilia Romagna Culinaria.

Oldways is very grateful to Barbara Lynch for sharing her passion for Italian food, and especially the foods of Emilia Romagna, her skills and knowledge, and for letting all of us travel and learn with her. Many thanks also to the Barbara Lynch Gruppo team: Michele Carter and Abby Gregory.

We feel very fortunate that we have the great pleasure of traveling and learning from Ronni Baer, Senior Curator of Paintings, European Art at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. She will be giving two lectures, and we know she will have a lot to say as we make our way through Emilia.

Thank you so very much to our friends in Emilia Romagna—both old and new.

Many thanks to Alice Rossi, our guide in Parma, has been such a consis-tent and wonderful help as we’ve put our program together. In addition, Fabio Bergonzini, a guide from Modena and Bologna, has been of great assistance, for which we thank him. Similarly, Martina Sibioli at Academia Barilla has been a steady and creative help, particularly with our two cooking classes, assisted by Chef Luca Zanga, and for arranging the tour at Barilla. Two other guides—Giada Rubinato and Camilla Calò—have been equally helpful.

Many thanks to Karl Berthold of Casa Italiana in Reggio Emilia and Carrie Davenport of The Rogers Collection in Portland, Maine for introducing us to two important producers in Emilia Romagna. Both Karl and Carrie were full of information and ideas, for which we are grateful.

These two producers—Giovanni Serra and the Serra family of Valserena, producers of Parmigiano Reggiano and Giovanni Bianchi, of Pio Tosini Prosciutto di Parma—welcomed us so very warmly. We thank them for their hospitality and for the great care that they make for these products so essential to Emilia Romagna, Italy and all over the world.

We’ve had similar experience at Acetaia Malpighi in Modena, and we thank Monica Righi and everyone at Acetaia Malpighi for introducing us to Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale.

Many thanks also to Franca Ferrari, Daniela Scita, Francesca Sarti, and everyone at the Grand Hotel de la Ville, our home away from home. They’ve been very helpful as we’ve worked on the program over the last year. We are also grateful to Paolo Tegoni of the University of Parma for introducing us to the wines of Emilia Romagna on our first night in the region.

continued

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Thank you also to all the chefs and others at the restaurants and wineries we have the pleasure of enjoying:

In Polesine Parmense : Massimo Spigaroli of Antica Corte Pallavicina

In Parma: Ristorante Parmigianino at the Grand Hotel de la Ville; Ristorante Cocchi in Parma; Ristorante Angiol d’Or; and Trattoria del Ducato

In Langhirano: Vineyard Carra di Casatico; Lamoretti Vineyard; and Masticabrodo Trattoria

In Modena: Il Fantino and Driver Bar

In Ravenna: Ristorante Cà de Ven

In Bologna: Ristorante Cesarina

Finally, thank you very much to everyone at Oldways for making this Culinaria possible, especially Joan Kelley, who has made everything look beautiful, and to Sara Fetbroth of Oleana Restaurant, who always provides a steadying hand, and most of all, without question, to Abby Sloane, who keeps everything running smoothly and efficiently—and always with a smile and boatloads of enthusiasm.

Sara Baer-SinnottPresident, OldwaysMay 2016

CREDITS: As a nonprofit educational organization, Oldways expresses sincere appreciation to the sources of selections that appear in this Program Book. These works make valuable contributions to this educational program, and to our under-standing of Emilia Romagna, and the foods and wines that make it so special.

Parma & Bologna

UNESCO officially declared Parma a “creative city for gastronomy.” Parma thus becomes

the first Italian city to obtain the prestigious title, that UNESCO awards cities with unique capabil-ities in the field of food and agriculture.

UNESCO New York December 11, 2015

!$}

Bologna has three titles in Italy. She is called Bologna the Wise for her fame as a seat of

learning. Bologna the Red for her red tiled roofs, russet-colored buildings and, some say, her years of Communist government. Finally, the title every Italian knows is Bologna the Fat, for the wealth of her land and table since the days of the Romans. Lynne Rossetto Kasper The Splendid Table (1992)

!$}

The people of Emilia-Romagna eat more, care more and talk more about food than

anyone else in Italy. Claudia Roden The Food of Italy (1989 and 1999)

266 Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02116, USATel: 617-421-5500 • Fax: 617-421-5511

[email protected]

© 2016 Oldways Preservation Trust

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