O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc. · continued on page 2 ... striking in a shady location, but perhaps...

1 - 3New Trees & Shrubs

4 - 5New PerennialsSpring Pond Frolics

6 - 7Perennial Plant of 20062006 Cary AwardHeuchera: The Perfect Companion Plant

8 - 9Maintaining Perennial Gardens

10 - 11 - 12Furnishings & Outdoor AccentsWhy YardScape

13Gardening on Hard Surfaces

14 - 15Orchids for Beginners

O’Donal’s Nurseriesis a member of :∗American Nursery and

Landscape Association∗Maine Nursery and

Landscape Association∗New England Nursery and

Landscape Association∗Perennial Plant

Association∗Maine Christmas Tree

Association

Inside

O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.Spring 2006 Newsletter

NEW TREES & SHRUBS FOR 2006

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Acer palmatum ‘Suminogashi’: This Japanese maple has an upright form, and deeply-divided red leaves. It can be used in the same sites as a ‘Bloodgood’ Japanese Maple. In full sun or light shade, this small tree will grow to about 15’ tall and 12’ wide.

Acer palmatum ‘Twombly’s Red Sentinel’: ‘Red Sentinel’ is a variation of ‘Bloodgood’ by Connecticut’s legendary plantsman, Ken Twombly. It is upright and columnar when young then broadens with age. The foliage is deep maroon-red in summer, and red stems also provide winter interest.

Acer palmatum ‘Yatsubusa Kashima’ and ‘Yatsubusa Kyohime’: These varieties are very rare and unique forms of Japanese Maple. Kiyohime is almost a groundcover, maturing to about 2’ tall by 6’ wide; its green foliage has a pink tinge, turning brighter pink-red in fall. Kashima is similar to Kiyohime, but will grow twice as tall. Our supplier/grower, Mike Johnson of Summer Hill Nursery, describes these Japanese maples as “very tidy small plants”.

Acer pensylvanicum x tegmentosum ‘White Tigress’: This maple was introduced by premier plantsman Tim Brotzman, who introduced the Lavender Twist Redbud. White Tigress is a hybrid striped maple; its bright green stems have prominent white stripes. In summer, the tree has immense green leaves.

Acer rubrum ‘Magnifi cent Magenta’ (Burgundy Belle™ Red Maple): This swamp maple has rich green foliage in summer; in fall leaves turn red, then rich burgundy. The tree itself has a dense, oval-to-rounded crown.

Azalea (Rhododendron) ‘Sparkler’: Here is another late summer-blooming fragrant azalea. In the words of Wayne Mezitt (Weston Nurseries), ‘Sparkler’ is “one of the very best”. Its rich, deep green foliage is enhanced in late summer by bright pink fragrant blooms.

Azalea (Rhododendron) xyodense var. poukhanense ‘Pink Discovery’: This is a new evergreen azalea from Weston’s Nursery. ‘Pink Discovery’ has a somewhat rounded form, and is covered by bright pink blooms in spring. It is considered one of the hardiest evergreen azaleas.

Buxus x ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Mound’ and ‘Green Velvet’: Our spectacular success with Green Mountain Boxwood has encouraged us to expand this series from Sheridan Nursery (Canada!). The hardiness of Green Mountain has surpassed our wildest dreams, looking better in a display bed than most Kalmia and Rhododendrons each spring. The habit of Green Mountain is an upright pyramid,

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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.

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whereas these new boxwood varieties are small rounded dwarfs. Green Gem is a slow-growing mound, maturing to a 2’x 2’ ball. Green Mound is a slightly larger version, reaching perhaps 3’ x 3’. Green Velvet has small, dark green round foliage, is very slow-growing, and will mature to about 3’ x 3’.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Kosteri Fastform’: This introduction has a texture much like dwarf Koster Falsecypress, but is much faster growing. ‘Kosteri Fastform’ matures to a broad, upright specimen with rich green foliage. Its habit is similar to ‘Gracilis Compacta’, but not quite as broad.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Split Rock’: A falsecypress introduced by Split Rock Nursery in New Jersey, this slow-growing specimen mixes striking blue juvenile foliage with a main body of blue-gray mature foliage. ‘Split Rock’ matures into an upright broad pyramid.

Clethra alnifolia ‘Fern Valley Pink’: Think Hummingbird Clethra combined with Ruby Spice Clethra! ‘Fern Valley Pink’ is a broad, yet compact plant with fragrant pink blooms that fade to a light pink-cream. This new clethra also blooms earlier than other clethra.

Cornus kousa ‘Gamzam’ (Galilean Korean™ Dogwood): ‘Gamzam’ has been introduced by Lake County Nursery, Ohio, as one of the most vigorous, best foliaged, and hardiest Kousas. This dogwood has cream fl owers in mid-summer and red raspberry-like fruit in fall.

Cornus kousa ‘Wolf Eyes’: ‘Wolf Eyes’ is one of the best known variegated kousa dogwoods. It is a slow-growing form, and the foliage has prominent white edges. ‘Wolf Eyes’ is very striking in a shady location, but perhaps too bright to look at in full sun.

Cornus stolonifera ‘Farrow’ (Arctic Fire™ Red Twigged Dogwood): Arctic Fire is a selected sport of Bailey Red Twigged Dogwood, but is more compact, rarely maturing over 5’. Unlike most red twigged dogwoods, Arctic Fire is non-suckering, forming a rounded outline of bright red stems in winter. It is also a 2006 Proven Winner ColorChoice exclusive.

Cotinus coggygria ‘Young Lady’: This smokebush variety, a Proven Winner ColorChoice introduction, is destined to turn people into smokebush fans whether or not they want to. ‘Young Lady’ is a compact (under 8’) rounded plant with green foliage, and in summer, it seems every tip is covered with extremely large smokey pink fl ower heads. Even very young plants fl ower profusely.

Deutzia gracilis ‘Duncan’ (Chardonnay Pearls™ Deutzia): This deutzia cultivar has a compact, mounding habit, lime-yellow foliage, and upright panicles of rounded pearl-like white blooms. Chardonnay Pearls is a colorful addition to any sunny garden, and a Proven Winners ColorChoice exclusive.

Ginkgo biloba ‘Chi Chi’: This dwarf specimen Ginkgo is highly prized for bonsai. ‘Chi-Chi’ is a slow-growing upright “shrub” with numerous protruding bumps on its trunk. Very rare.

Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Penny Mac’: This hydrangea is 98.5% genetically similar to the Endless Summer Hydrangea, but is slightly hardier. ‘Penny Mac’ has blue or pink fl owers, depending on soil pH, and it fl owers continuously from June through November. Typically, if the soil is correct, the fl owers open blue, then age to pink, resulting in a mix of old pink and new blue fl owers throughout the summer. It is named in honor of a founding member and past president of the American Hydrangea Society.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’ (Quickfi re Panicled Hydrangea): Quickfi re is a new German hybrid being introduced through the Proven Winners ColorChoice program. It has the earliest fl owers of any panicled hydrangea, opening creamy white and turning a deep rose pink before other hydrangeas begin to fl ower. ‘Bulk’ is a dramatic addition to the hydrangea family.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Daub’s Frosted’: An eye catching accent, ‘Daub’s Frosted’ is a spreading/arching juniper with blue-gray foliage and contrasting ivory colored tips.

Larix x ‘Varied Directions’: This new variety is similar in appearance to Weeping Larch, but with a very different attitude! ‘Varied Directions’ is a groundcover if not staked; its branches arch up, over, around or down, almost on a whim. It has fresh green needles that turn golden yellow in fall. ‘Varied Directions’ was developed by legendary plantsman, Sidney Waxman, of the University of Connecticut.

Larix laricina ‘Deborah Waxman’: This larch, another selection by Dr. Waxman, ‘Deborah Waxman’ (the larch, not the person) is a slow-growing, upright dwarf. This new larch has a tight conical habit with ascending branches, blue-green needles, and golden fall color. Spring cones are a dramatic rose color.

Malus ‘Purple Prince’: A new introduction by the J.Frank Schmidt Nursery, ‘Purple Prince’ may be the best disease-resistant, red-leaved, red-fl owering crabapple. It eventually forms a rounded crown, 20’ tall and wide.

Malus ‘JFS-KW5’ (Royal Raindrops Crabapple): This new variety is a signifi cant improvement over Golden Raindrops Crabapple. Royal Raindrops has cutleaf red-purple foliage, deep rose-red fl owers, and persistent red fruit.

Philadelphus lewisii ‘Blizzard’: This mockorange was selected in Alberta, Canada for improved hardiness and compact form. ‘Blizzard’ has single white fragrant blooms on a 6’ plant.

odonalsnurseries.com


continued from page 2Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Mindia’ (Coppertina Ninebark): WOW! Talk about dramatics; Coppertina takes the highest award for it! A cross between 2 ninebarks (red-leaved Diablo and gold-leaved Dart’s Golden), Coppertina is a fast-growing tall arching shrub of 10’ or more. New growth is bi-colored maroon and orange, and the mature foliage is a rich maroon. Add pink fl ower clusters and red-ripening fruit capsules, and you have a knockout shrub.

Picea glauca ‘Humpty Dumpty’: Think, squat fat Dwarf Alberta Spruce! ‘Humpty Dumpty’ is an extremely slow-growing broad pointed mound, as wide at the base as it is tall. Originally found as a witch’s broom, ‘Humpty Dumpty’ has been introduced by Iseli Nursery.

Picea orientalis ‘Gowdy’: ‘Gowdy’ Oriental Spruce is a spectacular specimen with short deep green glossy needles and a broad, pyramidal growth habit. Not a true dwarf, but slower growing than the species, ‘Gowdy’ has graceful draping to weeping branchlets.

Rhododendron x ‘Midnight Ruby’: This rhododendron is a hybrid cross of the popular and practically indestructible PJM, and the groundcover Purple Gem Rhododendron. ‘Midnight Ruby’ matures to a midpoint between its parents, about 3-4’ tall and wide. It produces copious amounts of bright lavender fl owers in early spring. The foliage is a deep green with a purple haze, turning deep purple when cold nights and shorter days return in late August.

Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’ (Black Lace Elderberry): If we believe the press, this is the plant of the year. This next generation Black Beauty Elderberry has fi nely cut foliage that resembles red-leaved Japanese Maples. As a much hardier plant (than the Japanese maples), and the ability to thrive in more diffi cult conditions, Black Lace appears to be a spectacular gift to gardeners. However, don’t jump on the band wagon yet! At O’Donal’s, we are acutely aware that our Maine climate extends a ‘very special invitation’ to untested plants. Black Beauty, the forerunner of Black Lace, did not fare well in Maine’s climate, so we will wait and see. O’Donal’s will have a small number of plants available for those who can’t resist

giving it a try.Spiraea x ‘Darnsnorm’ (Snowstorm Spirea): This new spring-blooming spirea, a Proven Winners ColorChoice, forms a mounding habit. Its green summer foliage which turns a blaze of orange-reds in fall, making it a great non-invasive alternative to burning bush in Maine landscapes.

Symphoricarpos x doorenbosii ‘Kordes’ (Amethyst™ Coralberry): This shrub is yet another new selection through the Proven Winners ColorChoice program. Amethyst grows about 30” tall, and is an excellent fast-growing, erosion-controlling groundcover in full sun to part shade. The plant is really spectacular in fall, as its stems are covered with deep rose-pink berries.

Syringa x ‘Red Pixie’: Think Dwarf Korean Lilac but with glossier foliage and bright red buds that open to brilliant rose-pink blooms. ‘Red Pixie’ is a spectacular new, compact, late-blooming lilac.

Viburnum dilatatum ‘Henneke’ (Cardinal Candy Viburnum): This viburnum is another exclusive through the Proven Winner ColorChoice program. Cardinal Candy grows up to 8’ high and 6’ wide. It has deep green, crinkly looking foliage, clusters of white (non-fragrant) fl owers, followed by deep red berry clusters that look too good to eat. In addition, the fruit persists well into winter. Cardinal Candy is reportedly hardier than species Viburnum dilatatum, which, during severe winters, has died back in some parts of Maine. A real knockout that is also resistant to the Viburnum leaf beetle.

While this list represents many of our new offerings this year, O’Donal’s Nurseries, in keeping with our goal of creating gardeners for life, continues to test many other newly available plants for hardiness, insect resistance and overall positive results. Our hope is to add these plants within the next few years.

Jeffrey O’Donal

extended hours in MayMon. - Fri. 8:00 - 7:00

Saturday 8:00 - 6:00Sunday 9:00 - 5:00

June onMon. - Sat. 8:00- 6:00

odonalsnurseries.comour catalog is on-line as spring daylight

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NEW PERENNIALS FOR 2006

Achillea ‘Summer Wine’: Like all Yarrows, ‘Summer Wine’ thrives in full sun and tolerates dry conditions and rewards you with burgundy-wine colored fl owers in summer, fading to rose-pink as they age. This perennial grows 2’ tall and is a great cut fl ower. A White Flower Farm selection. Z3

Aquilegia ‘Dorothy Rose’: Light rose-pink fl owers adorn this variety of Columbine in early summer. ‘Dorothy Rose’ performs well in full sun to partial shade and grows to 2’ tall. It has attractive light blue-green foliage. ‘Dorothy Rose’ is very similar to a columbine that created a lot of “buzz” in the 2004 Portland Flower Show.

Aquilegia ‘Songbird Cardinal’: Showy and attractive 3” skyward facing, red and white fl owers with long spurs bob atop this perennial in early spring. Like most Columbines ‘Songbird Cardinal’ fl owers best in full sun to partial shade. This variety has a compact habit and grows to 2’ tall.

Astilbe: (False Spirea) What shady garden would be complete without a healthy, colorful swath of Astilbes? This year we are adding 4 must have varieties to our selection.

‘Color Flash’: pink early summer plumes on a 20” tall plant. In spring, foliage emerges rich green and then changes to shades of oranges, burgundies and reds throughout the season, creating intense landscape interest. Z4

‘Heart and Soul’: Summer blooms are light pink and show a lavender-blue sheen in early morning light. A robust plant, ‘Heart and Soul’ grows to 32” tall. Z4 ‘Burgundy’: Long-lasting deep red fl owers appear in

summer. Glossy deep green foliage on a 2’ plant. Z4 ‘Key West’: Abundant carmine-red summer fl owers

combined with dark burgundy foliage make a stunning plant. ‘Key West’ has a compact habit and grows 16-20” tall. Z3

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Looking Glass’: (Perennial Forget-Me-Not) ‘Looking Glass’ is a sport of ‘Jack Frost’ with striking, shiny leaves that are all silvery-green; a beautiful contrast in a partially shaded garden. Blue fl owers appear in early summer. At 15” tall, this plant makes a nice groundcover or border. Z3

Centaurea montana ‘Amethyst in Snow’: This Mountain Bluet grows in full sun to partial shade. Summer blooms of white petals look like feathered trumpets around a purple fl ower center. ‘Amethyst in Snow’ forms a thick spreading mound of deep green foliage; a compact plant of about 1 foot tall. A Blooms of Bressingham introduction. Z3

Echinacea ‘Vintage Wine’: Here’s an outstanding Conefl ower to add to your collection! Richly colored purple-

red blooms do not have the typical drooping petals. ‘Vintage Wine’ fl owers best in full sun and grows to 3’ tall. Z3

Carex hachioensis ‘Evergold’: (Sedge) This cool season grass has bold yellow variegation on narrow, arching leaves. ‘Evergold’ grows to 12’ tall and prefers partial shade. Z5

Hemerocallis ‘Black Stockings’: ‘Black Stockings’ will add drama to your garden with the purple-black blooms and dark green foliage. This heavy bloomer performs well in full sun to partial shade and reaches 2 feet in height. Z2

Heucherella ‘Stoplight’: (Foamy Bells) White, early summer fl owers on a plant that enjoys morning sun and afternoon shade. ‘Stoplight’ has bright yellow leaves with a large dark red center spot which feathers out through the veins. Its 6” height and fl ashy foliage make this perennial a boost for any border. Z4

Hosta: Got shade?

‘Captain Kirk’: Sport of ‘Gold Standard’; foliage has a wide golden center with a very wide dark green edge. The 1 ½’ tall by 3’ wide clump is topped with lavender fl owers in midsummer. Z3 ‘Eskimo Pie’: New sport of ‘Northern Exposure’ with

round, corrugated blue-green leaves highlighted by large creamy centers which lighten as the season progresses. White fl owers in midsummer above hardy 2’ tall clumps. Z3 ‘Dress Blues’: A cross with ‘Halcyon’ sporting heavy,

blue-green leaves, creamy margins. Lavender summer fl owers above 2’ tall and 3’ wide clump. Z3 ‘T-Rex’: Huge Hosta deserving of its name - it might be

toothless, but it is still intimidating! Large, puckered blue leaves are 18” long and 14” wide on a 30” tall plant. White fl owers in summer. Z3

Primula ‘North Hill Strain’: This candelabra type primula blooms spring into summer. Profuse blossoms are melon, peach, pale yellow and pink shades, and will attract hummingbirds and butterfl ies. This 2’ tall plant does best in part to full shade. A White Flower Farm selection. Z4

Salvia pratensis ‘Eveline’: Loaded with soft purple with pink fl owers from June through August. A sun-loving 2’ tall plant. Z3

Veronica prostrata ‘Aztec Gold’: A masterful combination of brilliant gold foliage and Bavarian-blue fl owers in late spring. Makes an excellent 6” groundcover. Z3

Judy Malloy



• Check for winter damage along the edges of your aquatic enclosure. If the lining has slipped, make the necessary tugs to get it back in place..

• Gently scoop out the yummy debris that may have accumulated over winter. Doesn’t it smell great? It makes good compost, so add it to your pile.

• Start your biological fi lter, if you have one (not your clock) once the water temperature is above 50°. Keep in mind it will take several weeks to cook up the friendly bacteria. I sometimes add some friendly starter bacteria to help things along. We have some available in our store, of course.

• If your pond plants spent the winter in deeper water (2 – 3 feet), now is the time to raise them up. Place them in their summer positions. When the lilies start to grow (water temperature 65° +), you can divide them along with other plants such as mini cat tails, rush, etc. You will end up with twice as many plants. Isn’t it wonderful how Nature works?

• I like to replace some of my pond water to freshen things up. Generally speaking, add about one-third the pond volume over a two to three day period. The slow addition helps to keep things in balance. Don’t add water if your pond is into its natural spring algal bloom. The algal bloom usually happens when the water temperature reaches 65°, but before the plants can shade about two-thirds of the surface. This early bloom should subside. If not, come in and we can talk about some water treatments.

• Your pump should be up and running by now. Make sure your waterfall or fountain is bubbling well, thus adding life-giving oxygen to the water. I run my pump 24/7 to keep a healthy oxygen level and to let the gurgling sound aid my naptime.

• If you have minnows in your pond (not gold fi sh, they are illegal) you can feed them just to stay on their good side. They need just a little food when the water

is cold (50° or colder). Give them a small amount of food that is high in carbohydrates, because there is no plant life yet to munch on. Feed only as much as they can eat in fi ve minutes, then scoop out the remaining food so it doesn’t add to the general decay. When the water warms to 65° plus, the fi sh need protein. Bits of worms make a good food source. Maybe a friendly robin will help out.

There are more frolics to share, but I’ve used up my allotted space. Why don’t you come in and we can talk while we enjoy the embrace of the spring sun.

Ron Hager

SPRING POND FROLICS

Possibly like you, I am already out playing in my awakening pond, even though I have learned that ponds do not need any more care than the rest of the garden. Still, it is fun to tinker; that is, fi nd an excuse

to play in the water, tickle the fi sh, sing to the frogs and manicure the awakening water plants. In the spirit of pond frolics, here are a few suggestions to enhance your pond play.

For the Gardener: Everything comes up roses when you‛re

deep in the dirt in your Crocs. Ventilated so dirt and air pass through but made of space-age material so they are odorless and virtually weightless. Ergonomic and orthotic, Crocs mold to your feet. When your Crocs get dirty,

just wipe clean or hose off. just wipe clean or hose off. just wipe clean or hose off. just wipe clean or hose off.

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PERENNIAL PLANT OF THE YEAR 2006DIANTHUS GRATIANOPOLITANUS ‘FEUERHEXE’ (FIREWITCH)DIANTHUS GRATIANOPOLITANUS ‘FEUERHEXE’ (FIREWITCH)DIANTHUS GRATIANOPOLITANUS ‘FEUERHEXE’

The Perennial Plant Association is pleased to announce that the Perennial Plant of the Year 2006 is Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Feuerhexe’ (Firewitch).

Cheddar pink is thc common name of this excellent sun-loving perennial. It is an evergreen variety with bluish-gray, silvery foliage and purplish-pink, fragrant fl owers in mid-spring. The Cheddar pink is excellent as a border edger, a rock garden plant, planted in wall crevices, or as a ground cover on a sunny slope. In mid to late spring, the plant is covered with fl owers, and the air is fi lled with their clove-like, spicy fragrance. ‘Firewitch’ can also re-bloom in summer and fall, especially if spent fl owers are removed. It is up to you!

Cold hardiness: USDA Zones 3-9Light: full sunHeight: 3-4” Width: 6-12”

2006 CARY AWARD WINNERS

Each year, the Worcester County Horticultural Society announces the current Cary Award recipients. Visit the

Japanese Umbrella-Pine ‘Wintergreen’Sciadopitys verticillata ‘Wintergreen’

The thick, waxy needles of this most unusual tree are reminiscent of the spokes of an umbrella, hence the common name. It is an evergreen conifer, native to Japan, where it is considered a sacred tree. It has survived for many thousands of years; in fact, coal miners in Japan sometimes fi nd “grass coal” which is the result of the compression of Umbrella-pine needles. It is slow-growing and elegant, ultimately reaching a height of 30’- 60’ in cultivation. It forms a dense, sometimes multi-stemmed pyramid, and prefers a rich, acidic soil, protected from winter winds.

The ‘Wintergreen’ cultivar, named by the late Dr. Sydney Waxman of the University of Connecticut, was chosen because it retains its lustrous green color through the winter months. Hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.

Weeping Katsuratree Cercidiphyllum japonicum ‘Morioka Weeping’

This deciduous tree is beautiful year-round. The 2-4” bluish-green leaves are reminiscent of Redbud (Cercis), hence the botanical name Cercidiphyllum meaning “leaves like Cercis.” The leaves fl utter in the slightest breeze, thus giving the effect of a shimmering waterfall. Native to China and Japan, this cultivar will reach an ultimate height and width of about 25-30’. The leaves turn a beautiful, earthy shade of orange and yellow in the fall, and exude a sweet scent when they fall; some describe the fragrance as reminiscent of caramel.

Best used as a specimen, the Weeping Katsuratree prefers rich soil and plenty of water when getting established. It is not commonly bothered by pests or diseases and hardy to USDA Zone 4.



The popularity of foliage plants for the garden and containers has been increasing by leaps and bounds over the past few years. There have always been foliage plant collectors, especially in the realm of shade gardening. But take note Hosta lovers - Heucheras are fast becoming a rising star, and for good reason. Breeders such as Dan Heims and Alan Bloom have been revolutionizing the plants’ characteristics. With over forty species to work with, it’s no wonder the choices are dizzying.

The best cultivars are derived from four species: H. sanguinea, H. micrantha, H. americana, and H. villosa. These are North American natives which help them to be vigorous in our environment. For the most part, Heucheras are long-lived and remain evergreen even in severe climates. Thus, they retain a beauty and interest year round. Plant ‘Chocolate Ruffl es’ Heuchera and you will see what I mean - picture a lovely lacy frost on its ruffl ed leaves on a chilly late fall or winter morning.

The handsome foliage of Heucheras is generally rounded, has 5-9 lobes, and leaves are toothed and often hairy. Color choices due to breeding are virtually unlimited. The old standby ‘Palace Purple’ (H. micrantha) with its bronzed red leaves, has now been surpassed by a frenzy of hybridizing between the micrantha and sanguinea species. Color variation now includes silver, garnet, purple, black, chartreuse, greens and autumnal hues of amber. There is a choice for every color hunger and garden scheme.

Tracking Heuchera parentage and all its cultivars can be overwhelming, and is further complicated by the fact that the Heucheras are is the largest herbaceous genus grown only in North America (I have counted well over forty). Basically though, there are two general types- woodlanders and crevice dwellers. Lucky for us, the showiest types tend to be the Northeast woodlanders. This explains why they generally prefer part shade conditions, and also why they fi t into our landscapes so well. Add the crevice dwellers types, and also you have heucheras for dry conditions as well. Heucheras are one of those rare easy plants to care for. Their needs are simple- well drained soil, winter mulching to prevent heaving, and occasional de-leafi ng, particularly in the spring. Hardiness ranges from zones 3-5, especially for those offered here in the Northeast. Generally, Heucheras are also disease and pest free. Good drainage is the key to their health, so they may not thrive in dense clay soils.

Because there are so many garden worthy Heucheras to choose from it is a good idea to consider other attributes

such as fl ower color and vigor. Some have only minor or insignifi cant fl owers, but most have lovely sprays of panicle fl owers on long scapes in tones of pink, red and white. Heuchera sanguinea, the one we commonly refer to as Coral Bells, is the only red fl owering species. Crossing it with other species leads to cultivars that fl ower in an array of reds and pinks. For splashy cream and green marbled foliage and true red fl owers, try ‘Monet.’ For pewter red foliage, darker red veins, and bright red fl owers we recommend ‘Swirling Fantasy.’ Both are generally available at O’Donal’s sometime after May1st.

The selection of Heucheras are far too numerous to cover in one article. Just when I think I have a favorite, another beautifl ul one comes along. This past year brought us ‘Obsidian’ with seriously black, shiny large rounded leaves. It sets off any fl ower or leaf in your garden. ‘Green Spice’ is a bright green selection with silver edges and purple venation. It has also proven to be quite vigorous. ‘Crème Brule’, a vast improvement over ‘Amber Waves’, has autumn tones of gold and rich browns while the reverse side of the leaf is green. Finally, ‘Autumn Bride’ (a cultivar of H. villosa) is a clean green with huge hairy leaves and dense white fl owers; it blooms much later in the summer than other Heucheras.

There are many reasons to try Heucheras if you haven’t already. They make fantastic companion plants for both the garden and containers because they contrast so well with many different perennials, trees, and shrubs. Drought tolerant, adaptable to various light conditions and easy care make them a sure winner. Look for them on both the annual and perennial benches here at O’Donal’s this spring and summer.

Suzanne Wakefi eld

HEUCHERA: THE PERFECT COMPANION PLANT

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WATERING/DRAINAGE Proper drainage is essential for most perennials. If you amend the soil with recommended amendments (see Spring 2005 Newsletter), drainage should not be a problem. If, on the other hand, your soil has too much clay, you may not only have a problem with drainage, but it is likely that you will have a soil pH problem as well (pH is easily tested).

In most cases, established perennial gardens do not require much additional water to that which Mother Nature provides. Of course, there are exceptions. During very hot, dry periods, additional watering is a must. Established perennial roots systems will require a watering regimen that penetrates at least 6-8 inches. Another exception is with new plants. Very often, small container perennials do not have very well developed root systems. These plants dry out very quickly; thus, you will need to take special care of them for the fi rst two years after planting. Lastly, on the issue of watering, some perennials require above average quantities of water and some prefer less than the average quantity. This later category of plants, loosely called drought tolerant, are adaptable to very dry conditions; however, even these plants will require some moisture, particularly when they are new in the ground. If you are have questions about what perennials are best for you, please ask any of the staff for assistance.

FERTILIZING A properly amended soil base in your perennial garden will not require much in the way of additional fertilizer. Top dressing with compost every other year or so will help to replenish soil trace elements, which are lost over time. If you feel that you must fertilize, natural amendments such as rock phosphate, kelp meal and greensand are all very good. Low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous granular products (5-10-0 or 5-10-5) can be used as well. Liquid fertilizers such as Miracle-Gro are best reserved for your annuals. Be sure to ask any of us at O’Donal’s if you are unsure which product is best for you.

MULCHING A good quality mulch is a must for your

garden, it suppress weeds, retains moisture and moderate the temperature of the soil. For perennials, a quality bark mulch (without red dyes) and buckwheat hulls are excellent choices. Big chunks of bark nuggets, while appropriate for some applications, may overpower some of your smaller plants. Replenish mulch every three to four years.

SOIL PH Generally speaking, most perennials will thrive in soils with a pH of 5.5 to 6.7. Fortunately, for most of us here in Maine, those pH requirements are satisfi ed by our existing soil. However, there are a few perennials (like peonies) that prefer a slightly more alkaline soil (i.e., a higher pH). If you have some of those high pH plants, simply add some lime around the plant every year. If you have any questions about pH requirements for you plants, please don’t hesitate to ask. If your garden is not thriving and you’re nurturing them as you should, it may be time for a soil test. We can help you with that as well.

WEEDING If there are any guarantees in life, this is one of them. If mulched properly, however, weeding should not be a burdensome task. My best advice is to attack them early and often. If you don’t get them early, by mid-summer you may be overrun. Once that happens, you just may decide to let your garden return to its natural condition. We don’t want that to happen! One word of caution…. don’t use herbicides such as Weed-B-Gone in your garden, no matter how careful you think you are. Also avoid using those kinds of products anywhere on windy days.

PEST/DISEASE CONTROL This is another one of those life guarantees. You will get pests and more than likely, some disease problems as well. The general advice is to treat pests and diseases as naturally (biological and organic controls) as possible; if that doesn’t work, then use the most benign and specifi c chemical available. Handpicking insects like Japanese Beetles and Lily Leaf Beetles can often be just as effective as other options…..and a whole lot less expensive. Bring samples (enclosed

MAINTAINING PERENNIAL GARDENS

People choose to plant perennial gardens for many reasons, but one of those reasons should not be that they are maintenance free. It’s not that they are “high maintenance”, but, if you want your perennial garden to retain its

aesthetic appeal year after year, you must put some time and effort into its care. Listed below are the key areas that should be considered:

continued on page 9



in a plastic bag) of the problem into the nursery, and we will advise you on the best approach to eliminate the problem. Remember, when spraying for insects with an insecticide, the poison that kills the insect will also kill butterfl ies and bees. In these situations, we recommend you spray only after sundown when bees and butterfl ies are no longer active. Also, spraying in the evenings when there is less wind helps to avoid pesticide drift. Always read the directions on the insecticide bottles (get out your magnifying glass!) to ensure the bug you’re trying to get rid of is specifi ed on the label, and that the product is safe for the plant varieties in question. Fungal problems are usually treatable with a general purpose fungicide. The key is to recognize the problem early and follow the treatment plan specifi ed on the product label. DEADHEADING Deadheading is the art of removing spent blooms. Other than aesthetics, there are at least two good reasons for doing this. Many varieties of perennials will actually rebloom if old fl owers are removed. In addition, deadheading will prevent the plant from putting energy into the production of seeds. Hint: when deadheading plants like Dianthus with hundreds of small blooms, use a pair of sharp hedge clippers. Not very elegant, but very effective! Plants like Nepeta (Catmint) that are very vigorous sometimes benefi t from a mid-summer shearing as opposed to deadheading.

DIVIDING There are three good reasons to divide perennials: to help rejuvenate them, to control the size of the plant, and to increase the number of plants. When should you divide your perennials? Generally speaking, if the plant is an early spring bloomer, divide it in the fall (allow at least a month prior to the ground freezing); if the plant is a summer or fall bloomer, you can divide it in the spring. Whatever you do, don’t try to divide it when it’s fl owering, and also avoid doing it on hot, sunny days. Tall plants should be cut back by about a 1/3 prior to dividing. This enables the plant to put more energy into new root growth rather than foliage growth. Most (but not all) perennials are good candidates for dividing after 4-5 years. One symptom that your plant needs dividing is a circle in the middle of your clump seems to be dying back. Using a good garden spade, remove the entire plant from your garden and place the root ball on a tarp. Then use a pitchfork or whatever tool you can come up with to divide the plant into several clumps. Plants are tough and you need not approach this as you would heart surgery. Place one or two of the smaller clumps back in the hole. Plant the other clumps in different

sections of your garden, or, better yet, give them to your friends. For particularly vigorous spreaders that you don’t want to deal with anymore, give them to folks that you’re not particularly fond of and then break off all communications. After living with their new plant for a few years, they won’t want to talk with you anyway.

SEASONAL CLEANUP AND WINTER PREP Come fall, the question is, should you cleanup and cutback all the dead foliage now, or wait until spring. Actually, you can do either, and most times both approaches work out just fi ne. However, there is some logic to the theory that if you leave this task until spring, the dead foliage actually helps to protect the plant from the occasional heavy spring frost. Obviously, if you like this theory, you’ll need to wait on cutting back until the threat of a heavy frost is over. Regardless of when you do your cleanup, remember it’s very important to remove diseased foliage from the garden as soon as you can. You do not want those leaves sitting in the garden all winter. Fall is also a good time to freshen up the mulch in your garden. This will help to protect the plants over the winter, and will be one less chore to do in the spring.

Happy Gardening!

Charles McNutt


Saturday & SundayApril 29 & 30O’Donal’s Open HouseGet ready for the growing season with lots of practical demonstrations and garden information. See garden displays by local landscapers. Meet landscape designers and see portfolios of their work. Preview what’s new for 2006 at our Nursery and Garden Shoppe.

Thursday June 1Ladies Night at O’Donal’sAn evening of pampering for hard-working women. Mark you calendar, call for details.

Stay tuned for more O’Donal’s events.

Spring Events at O’Donal’s

207-839-4262 page 10


Outdoor Living - New Choices at O’Donal’s

Inspired by the beautiful tones of the earth and vibrant colors of nature, O’Donal’s brings you new ways to experience your garden rooms. Dining alfresco has never been more enjoyable with our new collection of fresh air furnishings.

Wrought Iron with Travertine, Natural Slate, or Terracotta Mosaic

Rich and subtle tones exude aged excellence while delivering modern convenience and versatility. Elegant inalid tiles accent the fl owing curves of the iron frames.

Shorea WoodMixing ingredients is often the recipe

for a fabulous dish. We are introducing Shorea Wood and Textile combination

chairs and side tables. Shorea wood, similar but denser than teak, is ideal for

outdoor furniture. The chairs are also quite comfortable featuring 5-postion

arm and backrest.

Scoop Bistro SetsA fun take on a classic style - these are the tables you see in European squares and piazzas. Vibrant colors make each set a focal point on the balcony, on the patio, or in the garden. Chairs are stackable and the table folds for easy storage.



Can anything be more satisfying than a fertile carpet of green grass? How about a healthy landscape that features less lawn and beautiful plantings—all grown without the excessive use of pesticides, fertilizers and

water! Whether you’ve been wringing your hands over Japanese beetles or tired of slaving away on your lawn, YARDSCAPING is for you. Join the growing number of Mainers who are commited to changing their yard

care ways. For the health of the environment, people and wildlife.

Why YardScape?

Reason #1: Water quality Carpet-like lawns and beautiful yet hard to grow plantings add value and enjoyment to any home. But these benefi ts can come at tremendous cost to our environment. Yard care practices can impact water quality. The pesticides and fertilizers you apply to your yard may wind up in our waterways. At risk are lakes, streams and eventually the ocean.

Reason #2: People, Pets and Wildlife Too often people think pesticides are “safe” because they can be bought at a store. This is absolutely not true! Pesticides are designed to be toxic - that means they kill something. If used incorrectly, a pesticide could pose risks to people, pets and benefi cial creatures and plants. YARDSCAPING will help you grow lawns and landscapes that create better habitats and demand less of any chemical.

Reason #3: MoneyA YARDSCAPE can save you money. Shrinking your lawn and growing hardy plants will reduce out-of-pocket costs: gasoline, pesticides, fertilizers, water, plants and planting materials. In addition, preserving natural resources, like lakes, from polluting chemicals can increase your property value.

Reason #4: TimeYour time is valuable. Growing a YARDSCAPE, which uses low maintenance plants and has only the amount of lawn your lifestyle needs, adds up to more play time for you.

Reason #5: Air pollutionReducing your lawn size to what you really need is YardScaping 101. Using a power mower consumes fossil fuels and causes pollution. Think of it this way: one power mower = 40 cars. In fact, a lawnmower pollutes as much in one hour as an automobile driving 350 miles. It is estimated the average American spends 40 hours every year mowing their lawn.

Choosing PlantsRight plant, right place, right purpose. The right plant will defend itself against pests, fi t the space, do well in the amount of sunlight and water that’s available, and tolerate your soil’s pH.

Planting trees? Think small. Small diameter trees require less maintenance and become established in the landscape more quickly than larger diameter trees.

Go native. Try growing some native plants. They’re well adapted to Maine’s climate, so that means less work and more reward for you. Purchase only nursery grown natives, not ones dug from the wild. Choose a few that are food for birds, bees and other benefi cial insects.

WHY YARDSCAPE

Reason #6: Make a statement A landscape rich in diverse vegetation is unique. It expresses a property’s own character. Better yet, a lush YARDSCAPER property conveys an important message about aesthetics: environmental responsibility is always in good taste.

LandscapesSometimes homeowners buy or nuture plants they shouldn’t and wipe out bugs and plants they shouldn’t.

Consider this: Maybe the pretty plant with the lovely bloom is really an invasive outlaw that will spread out of control. Maybe the bug spray squirted an hour ago will stay in the soil for a long time and wind up in the lake after a heavy rainfall. Plus, the bug was a good guy, helping keep other pests at bay.Maybe the shrub we planted is doomed to die in the tight, wet spot we picked for it.

A green frame of mind:YardScaping will help you make good gardening choices, which will lead to better success in the dirt and a sense of pride that only comes when you garden with our natural resources in mind.

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Avoid invaders. Stay away from invasive plants. They spread uncontrollably, choking out native vegetation, which can change forever the availability of food and shelter for wildlife. Common culprits include purple loosestrife, Japanese barberry, Oriental bittersweet, Japanese knotweed and multifl ora rose. If you’re harboring an invasive plant already, remove it, including all of the roots. Prevent the predictable. Avoid plants prone to pest problems. Shop for insect and disease-resistant plants to further reduce the need for pesticides. You can get the low down on a plant’s pest-off powers from plant books and cataloges, garden centers, nurseries, and your county Cooperative Extension offi ce. Plant buffers. Plant trees, shrubs and groundcovers to create “buffers” (natural fi lters) along shorelines and downhill of stormwater runoff. Do not rake up the “duff” (nature’s mulch of twigs, pine needles and leaves ) in the buffer zone.

Applying Design - Quick Tips

Develop a plant list.The fi rst step in designing is taking a close look at the native landscape in your area to learn what plants thrive. Non-native plants can have their place in your yard too. Look for ones that are not known to escape into the wild and require low maintenance. Finding out what not to plant is just as important.

Welcome wildlife.Landscaping for wildlife is healthy gardening at its best. Gather critters and fl itters by reducing your lawn, planting in layers (trees, shrubs and groundcovers) and aiming for a mix of species. Try plants that offer sheltering thickets or produce nectar and fruit. Add water like a pond or birdbath. Always have something in bloom especially early on to attract insects that will in turn attract birds. Add non-living materials like fallen logs, stonewalls and feeders.

Consider your needs. How do you use your yard? Playing, grilling or not at all? What do you want in your yard? Flowers, birds, a quiet place to sit and read? What are the characteristics of your yard? Good drainage, swampy, low light, sunny? What can you do to improve water quality? Reduce your lawn, plant for wildlife?

Draw a map. A Picasso you may not be, but a sketch of your property

is indespensible in fi guring out different landscape designs. Include windows, doors, driveways, walks, outbuildings, and existing trees, shrubs and plants.

Create space by building outdoor rooms. Design rooms as you would in a house. Walls are trees, shrubs, wildfl owers, or structures like a fence. The ceiling can be the sky or a tree. Think about how the rooms will be used. Draw different rooms scenarios on tracing paper to place over your map.

Plant buffers. Plant trees, shrubs and groundcovers to create buffers (natural fi lters) along shorelines and downhill of stormwater runoff. Do not rake up the duff in the buffer zone.

The Buffer zone: The strip of land and water at the water’s edge. A properly cared for buffer acts like a sponge fi ltering pollutants and keeps water clean and clear.

Buffer Tips · Stop mowing to the edge. Let the grass grow. It will

help fi lter pollutants. · Preserve. Keep what’s growing naturally in your buffer

zone. · Don’t bare all. Plant or mulch bare soil. · Do not rake up the duff. · Mix it up. Plant a mix of species of different heights

including shrubs and trees. Make sure they’re suited to your soil and sunlight conditions. Try native plants.

· Forgo the fertilizer frenzy. Keeping lakes clean means little to no fertilizer use. If you must: use small amounts of organic matter or slow or timed release fertilizers, and unless a soil test indicates a need, always say NO to fertilizers contining phosphorus. For phosporous free fertilizer sources go to http://www.http://www.maine.gov/dep/blwq/doclake/fert/retailer.htmmaine.gov/dep/blwq/doclake/fert/retailer.htm.

· The wider the better. Bigger is better when it comes to building a buffer, but any buffer is better than no buf-fer at all!

· What about my view? Let’s put it this way, if you don’t buffer and your neighbors don’t buffer, then you’re ruining your view anyway. Planting a buffer protects water, but it also protects your property value. Try groundcovers and low growing trees and shrubs.

· Plan your path. Paths should be winding to interrupt the fl ow of rainwater. Cover bare soil with bark mulch or crushed stone.


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· Shrink surfaces. Minimize hard surfaces like pavement, patios, decks, roofs, compacted gravel and compacted lawns. Direct runoff from these surfaces into a buffer. · Stop soil from taking a swim. Mulch exposed soil on slopes or use erosion control netting. Water new plantings carefully, use a silt fence or hay bales during construction


Do you have a dangerous old sidewalk…or maybe an ugly paved driveway that needs a face lift? Believe it or not, you can garden on hard surfaces. In your fantasy world, you may imagine lots of room to garden in rich, deep, humusy soil. The reality may be that your best location for a garden is on top of old pavement, a bad sidewalk, or less than attractive patio. Creating a garden on an unwanted hard surface may prove to be less expensive (and lots more fun) than removing the old pavement and replacing it with new. This is also a wonderful opportunity to gain ground on a small urban lot which has been paved to death.

Since you can’t “scratch the surface” in these challenging areas, here are some suggestions to garden successfully on hard surfaces:

1.Use plants that are extremely hardy in your planting zone. In fact, select plants one full hardiness zone stronger if you can (i.e. use Z4 plants in Z5 area). These plants will be less hardy than they would be if planted in the ground.

2. The best soil to use is a well-drained amended loam: 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part loam. The soil depth will depend on the plants to be used. Four inches of soil supports small grasses, succulents, ground covers, and mat-forming perennials. Six inches of soil sup-ports annuals, rock garden and alpine plants, perenni-als, and shrubs that grow under 2 inches tall. Nine to twelve inches of soil supports veggies and herbs. Six-teen inches of soil supports small trees (15’ at matu-rity) and medium-sized evergreens such as arborvitae (although growth may be reduced). Two to three feet of soil is needed for larger trees but the height may be diminished. Remember, soil settles with time so be prepared to add more soil mix after the settling occurs. Every couple years you will need to top dress with airy

soil.3. You will need materials for a retaining wall to hold the

soil. Be creative. Some suggestions for a more natural look would be stones or driftwood, especially if the soil depth is 6” or more. If the depth of the soil to be retained is 4-6”, low growing ground cover plants such as thyme, moss, succulents (sedum), orcreeping phlox could be used. For a more formal look, any retaining wall material can be used such as timbers, blocks, or pavers.

4. Choose very hardy plants. Match the ultimate size of plants with the depth of the soil. In other words, the depth of soil needs to match the root growth. Light re-quirements need to be considered. A shady site needs plants that will grow in shade. Likewise, a very hot sunny area needs drought tolerant, sun loving plants. This makes sense, I am sure!

5. After the plants are installed, water, water, water. The watering requirements are the same as a thirsty potted plant. It is possible that if the spot is sunny, almost daily watering will be required in the summer or in a dry spell. One helpful idea would be to use xerophytic plants (plants that tolerate dry conditions). Another helpful hint is to use plants that have similar water needs.

The bottom line is that this is a fun and creative solution to a potentially dangerous, unsightly, diffi cult problem. Have fun!

For more ideas on this topic read: Gardening on Pavement, Tables, and Hard Surfaces by George Schenk. Timber Press

Judy Johnson

A CREATIVE GARDENING CHALLENGE: GARDENING ON HARD SURFACES

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Orchids are found on every continent except Antarctica. They are not only found in tropical areas but in the subtropical areas, lowland rain forests and even high elevation cloud forests. There are even some orchids that grow in the Arctic circle.

A few orchids grow on rocks and are know as lithophytes. Some grow on the ground and are considered terrestrial or semi terrestrial. But almost 75% of all orchids are epiphytes, or air plants; these orchids grow in trees, clinging to branches for support. These orchids are the ones we usually see for sale.

Orchidaceae is probably the largest family of fl owering plants with about 700 genera, 20,000 species, and 40,000 hybrids. Many of these orchids require extremely specialized growing conditions that are hard to duplicate. Most of us have probably heard a story about these orchids, and consequently are fearful of trying to grow one. But not all orchids are diffi cult. Several are actually considered very good starter plants for orchid beginners. Please note that not all species within each genus are easy but many of them are. These genera are listed below:

Beginner orchids: Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum, Phalaenopsis

Cattleya “The Corsage Orchid”Species known: 48 Native area: Central & South America

Characteristics: Cattleya have large showy fl owers with spreading sepals and petals, and a trumpet shaped lip with gorgeous frilly edges. They are best known as the corsage orchid but the breeders have grown them so very large and showy that they aren’t as practical for

that purpose. They are very popular as houseplants because of their bright colorful and often fragrant fl owers. These epiphytes have well developed water storage organs called pseudobulbs. These swollen stem bases have one or two leaves each set on a stout, creeping stem. They have large fl eshy roots.

There are two major groups of Cattleya orchids:unifoliate (1 leaf) often 12-16” tall; bifoliate (2 leaves) which has smaller leaves, and long pseudobulbs.

There are many different shapes and sizes of Cattleya. The “Minicats” at 6-12”,are great for houseplants. Most Cattleyas have 1 period of active growth and bloom time per year but some hybrids bloom more than once per year.

Light: Bright light, some sun; an east, west or lightly shaded south window.

Temp: Mature plants need 15 to 20° F difference between day and night. Nights of 55-60° F, days of 70-85° F. Keep out of cold, dry air when blooming. Humidity: 50-60%

Water: Water enough to keep the pseudobulb plump, but let the mix dry almost completely between waterings. It needs more water during the active growing periods.

Fertilizer: Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season. Use it weekly, weakly – a quarter strength of the recommended dilution (20-20-20).

Potting: Repot every 2-3 years in the spring in orchid mix that has good drainage and aeration. Cattleyas do well in pots and also in baskets.

Dendrobium “The Spray Orchid”Sepcies known: 1,000+ Native area: India, Tropical Asia, Indonesia, New Guinea, Australia, New Zealand

Characteristics: Dendrobium is one of the most recognizable orchids. The colorful fl owers grow in ones to threes along the stems. The cane-like pseudobulbs range from 2 inches to 6 feet in length with alternate leaves along all or part of the stem. The 1,000+ species belong to one of 4 basic cultural groups. They grow in climates ranging from hot, humid and tropical, to cool almost alpine conditions in the mountains. Because there are so many different species and conditions, please note that very general growing conditions are listed.

Light: Bright light in an east, west or slightly shaded south window.

Temp: Nights 60-65° F, and days 80-90° F. Mature plants need a 15-20° F difference between night and day. They can tolerate 95-100° F only if shading, humidity and air circulation are increased. Keep out of cold dry air when blooming. Temperatures below 50° F may cause fl ower drop. Humidity: 50-60%.

Water: Water and fertilize during the summer growth period. Keep evenly moist. Mature plants should dry a bit between waterings.

Potting: They like 4-6” clay or plastic pots, and tend to like a smaller pot than you would expect for the plant size. They also do well in baskets. Dendrobiums only need dividing every 2-3 years – not every time you repot. They also like a fairly coarse and free draining mix.

Oncidium: “Dancing Lady Orchids”Species known: 620 Native area: American tropics

Characteristics: They are known for their arching stem with

ORCHIDS FOR BEGINNERS



dozens of 1.5 – 2” dancing fl owers. The small mostly yellow or yellow brown fl owers have a prominent and often lobed lip. The main bulb and two sub-bulbs behind it should be plump, and the leaves should look plump and unwrinkled. Lots of pleating in the leaves may be the result of low humidity. They grow at sea level in the tropics to the high elevation of the Andes.

Light: Bright to almost full sun depending on the species, close to an east or west window. South windows are too hot in summer, but fi ne in winter if screened with curtains.

Temp: 50-60° F at night and 80-85° F during the day. Humidity: 30-80% depending on the species. Many require less humidity than other orchids.

Water: It varies with the species. Large, fl eshier roots or leaves need less frequent waterings than thinner leaved or thinner root plants. Water thoroughly and let the pot dry about half way through the pot before watering. It could be 2-10 days depending on pot size, planting medium, and weather. Water less in non-growing season. To avoid root rot, do not allow the water to linger on leaf bases.

Potting: Repot usually in the spring. Under pot mostly in 6-8” pots. They need good drainage in rapid drying mix. Some varieties can go in baskets; smaller varieties can be mounted on bark. Common orchid bark mix works well.

Paphiopedilum: “Slipper Orchid”Species known: 60 Native area: Asian Tropics

Characteristics: These orchids are often called the Lady Slipper Orchid. All have large fl owers with a characteristically large pouched lip. The leaves are green or mottled green with purplish undersides. Each fl ower spike carries 1 spectacular long lasting bloom; some fl owers last for several months. Most are terrestrial (grown on the ground) but some grow on rocks. Some slipper orchids are epiphytic and attach themselves to trees.

Light: Moderate light of an east or south facing window. Green leaved varieties need slightly brighter light and a bit warmer than mottled varieties.

Temp: 59-82° F, without fl uctuation from day to night. Humidity: 50-60%. Paphiopedilum is not as demanding about humidity as some other orchids. They do like good air circulation.

Water: Let the surface of the plant dry between waterings. Water roughly every 7 days. The interior of the medium should be slightly damp. When leaves are wrinkled and droopy, it is too dry. They have no pseudobulbs to store water, so they can not be dry for too long.

Potting: Use fi ne bark plus a bit of peat or long fi ber moss. Repot it yearly even if you do not divide. Slipper orchids need good drainage. A 4-6” plastic or clay pot works well.

Phalaenopsis: “Moth Orchid”Species known: 48 Native area: Asian Tropics

Characteristics: The Phalaenopsis are the most popular and most recognized orchid in the world. Seventy-fi ve percent of all orchids purchased are Phalaenopsis. Noted for their 3’ arching vertical branch with a spray of rounded fl at showy fl owers one after another along the stem, they resemble a mobile of butterfl ies. They are available in an amazing variety of fl ower colors. The leaves are large, and solid or mottled green. The roots are easy to see crawling along the surface of the mix and going down into the medium.

After fl owering, do not cut back the fl ower spikes because they may branch and refl ower (for up to 2 months). Sometimes some fl ower buds do not bloom. These keikis or babies can be repotted when they are mature and have roots. They bloom for long periods of time up to 2 months.

Light: East or southeast facing window. Similar light to an African Violet. They do not like direct sun.

Temp: Best in 70-80° F range. Never below 50° or above 100°.Humidity: 40-50%.

Water: Phalaenopsis have no pseudobulbs (water storage organs) so they are not as drought tolerant as Cattleyas and Oncidiums. Water more frequently when hot and dry. When cool and overcast, water less (maybe 2 times per week). Keep potting bark mix slightly damp; limp and wrinkled leaves may be a sign of water stress – overwatering. Another indicator is root color; healthy roots should be pewter colored when dry and deep red or green when wet.

Potting: Most are potted in medium orchid bark potting mix in 4-8” clay or plastic pots. Some are grown in basket,s and some varieties can be mounted specimens.

Here at the Garden Shoppe at O’Donal’s, we have some captivating orchids for you to try growing at home, along with free care sheets and reference books to purchase. So stop into O’Donal’s, fall in love with an orchid, and gain the knowledge you need to make you a confi dent orchid grower. Orchids do not have to be intimidating. It’s all about knowing where to start. Hope to see you soon.

Cheryl Hall

O’DONAL’S NURSERIES, INC.6 County RoadGorham, ME 04038

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18. HOARSE20. COMPACT21. WITHOUT RECOMPENSE23. TAXUS 24. ROTATING MACHINE PART25. CURLY OR FLAT29. FLIGHTLESS

AUSTRALIAN30. A YOUNG SEAL31. STELLA D’___32. CITIZENS OF YEMEN35. MIDDLE EASTERN

MONETARY UNIT37. WELCOME __38. CHERRY RED39. EXPECT42. FRIGHTEN43. COS AND BUTTERHEAD45. PLANT48. POLLiNATOR49. FUNGAL DISEASE50. CONSEQUENTLY51. DRINK MADE FROM52. SUFFIX MEANING‘LITTLE’53. CULINARY HERB

DOWN1. TOUCH2. BEFORE3. FLOSS FLOWER4. LOVE APPLE5. STINGERS6. HIGH-SOUNDING7. ASSENT8. SMOOTHER9. ONCE PERSIA10. AFFECTATION

11. STEM JOINT17. CONDENSATIONS19. TERM OF ADDRESS21. NOVELIST ZANE22. ETERNAL CITY23. BARK25. SIGN OF INFECTION26. HONEYSUCKLE GENUS27. EDWARDIAN AND SWING28. YESTERYEAR30. STONE33. THROW OFF34. CREATION35. STUDY36. BLUE AND YELLOW FLAGS38. BEE’S CLASS39. WHITE40. GARDENER’S NEMESIS41. “IT SUITS ME TO _______”42. APHID OR SLUG44. PRUNE46. URGE ON47. JOHN OR JANE _

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