8/14/2019 Observer Sunday 01 March 2009 World's 20 Best Hidden Bars

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The hippest watering holes are too cool for neon signs. Annabelle Thorpe opens the unmarked doors that lead to the best hidden bars, from a Washingtonspeakeasy to a Barcelona hot spot that you reach through the owners wardrobeLARRY LAWRENCENEW YORK AcrossthewaterfromManhattanbutstillspirituallypart oftheisland,Williamsburgcontainssomeof Brooklynshippestaddresses,andfewarehipperthanLarry Lawrence.Thebaris hiddendowna longconcretehallway,markedout simplybya signsayingBar,but insidethecavernousloft-spacehasa warm,ski-lodgefeel,withlotsof polishedwoodandevenaglassed-insmokingdeck,from whichyoucangaze overtheinteriorofthebar.Usuallydeaduntilabout 11pm,itllsup rapidlyafterwards. 295GrandStreet,Williamsburg;0017182187866;larrylawrencebar.com

BOURBON AND BRANCHSAN FRANCISCOAlmost90yearsago areal speakeasyoperatedoutof thesamebuilding intheTenderlointhatnowhousesBourbonandBranch,whichaimstore-createthat1920sfeel.Itsthe barwithinthebar thatstherealsecret;reserveatablein themainarea but,onceyoureinside,lookfora doorwithabuzzer,usethe passwordbooksandyoullbe allowedupto thelibrary,wheretherealcocktail-drinkingtakesplace.Thisisaplacewitharealpassionforalcohol,servingrarewhiskiesandtequilas.Oneofthem the TapatioXAis notavailableanywhereelseintheStates. 501JonesStreet;bourbonandbranch.com

THE R BARLOS ANGELESTheneighbourhood theR BarislocatedindeepestKoreatownisdodgy,thefaux-piratedecoris,um,quirky,andthepose-factorishigh...butifyouvegot thepassword(checktheMyspacepage,orringand talkto thebartendernicely)thisplacesoffers aninterestingglimpseintoLAssupposed

hipster scene.Get therebeforenineandyou mayhavetheplace toyourself,butitcanbeworthittosnagoneofthedimlylitnooks,whichare perfectforanillicit(orlicit,ifitsthebestyoucanmanage)liaison. 3331W8thStreet;00 12133877227

THE VIOLET HOURCHICAGOHiddenbehindagratti-coveredwallwitha doorthatis barelynotice-able,theVioletHourharksback to19th-centuryFranceand thevogueforsalons:itsa collectionofsmallroomswithelegantfurnitureandroaring res,dedicatedtocreatingan intimateatmosphereto encouragediscussionandconversation.This isglamouratitsmostold-school low-key,subtleanddenitelyupmarket.Itsnottheplacefora gangoffriendsonaboozynightout, butbettersuitedtoaninti-

matechat deux ,overclassic cocktailsthatare expertlymixed.Doesnttakereservations. 1520NorthDamenAvenue;theviolethour.com

PX LOUNGEWASHINGTONTake a stroll up genteel King Streetin the DC suburb of Alexandria andlook for a blue light in the window; if its lit, the PX Lounge is open (usuallyfrom Wednesday to Saturday, from7pm). This 1920s-style speakeasyis all about high-end glamour; seatsfor just 38 (no standing), glistening chandeliers and original polishedwood xtures and ttings. Cocktailshave been elevated to an art form mixologist Todd Thrasher s creationsare legendary, with an eccentric mix of ingredients from tobacco to vinegar-pickled peaches and home-made tonicwater. 728KingSt,Virginia;001703 2998384; restauranteve.com/eamonns/PX/px_home.html

EL ARMARIOBARCELONABarcelonasEl Ravalneighbourhoodisdottedwith tinybars,oftenopenedupby squatterswhohavetakenupresidenceintheemptyhouses.One,ElArmario(on Carrerdela Riereta),involvesactually walkingthroughtheownerswardrobetogetto thebararea.Far toocoolfor atelephonenumberorwebsite,itrarelyopensbefore3am(andsometimesnotat all)butifyoudogetintheresafairchanceyoullbethe onlytouriststhere.Ifitsclosed,tryEl Mariachi(cornerof Car-rerdelsCdolsand CarrerdEnRullintheGothicquarter)or TheFrontRoom(itsunoffi cialname itdoesntreallyhaveone),behindthemetaldoor onCarrerdEnCarabassa. CarrerdelaRiereta

PIPA SOCIAL CLUBBARCELONAHiddenawayabovetheGlaciarRestau-rant,thistempletopipesmokingisaratherelegantcollectionofsixrooms,whichdatefromaroundthe19thcen-tury.Ringthedoorbell(itsanunmarkeddoor)andalight willcomeontwooorsup,lettingthestaff knowtocomedownandletyouin. Askfora Cosmopolitanandyoullbedisappointed;themixedcrowdofstudents,musiciansandlocalscometodrinklocalbeersandspirits,playpoolandpeerdownin delightatthetouristsmadlybustlingacrossthePlaaReialbelow. PlaaReial3;00 349330111 65;bpipaclub.com LA TRASTIENDAGRANADAIntheshadow oftheAlhambraand astonesthrowfromtheAlbaicnsmazeofcobbledstreetsis LaTrastienda.Fromtheoutside,a touristwouldonlyseearowofdanglinghamsandanold-fashionedtill.Buttras tiendatrans-latesas behindtheshop,solocalsdisappearbehindthecounterto ndacosy barservinggoodhousewines,localbeerand,of course,Andalucianmeats.GranadaisknownthroughoutSpainforitsfreetapas,andthisbarisnoexception. PlazadeCuchilleros11;0034958226965

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Let us takeou to a secret

bar we know

Theelegant19th-centuryPipaSocialClubinBarcelonaisatempletopipesmoking.

ThisismusicfordangerousightpatternsacrossvastoceansIndiesnewvoice,DMStith

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VOYAGES JULES VERNE

Permanentlyclosedwindowblindskeepthehoi polloiout(andunaware)whileinside,Berlinsarty crowd(andafewcelebs)knockbackoutrcocktails. Gipsstrasse5,Mitte

BLIND EYEPRAGUEThisusedto bea speakeasyuntilaboutayear ago,butalthoughits nowlegityoustillhave toringthe buzzertogetin.DontexpectlanguidsophisticatessippingCosmoplitans;this isCzechgrungeatits most,um,grungiest.Houserulesarenonexistent(apartfromrespectingotherpunters)andthehousecocktailmixesvodka,gin,tequilaandwhiterum. Tattoosandeyemake-uparede rigueur(particularlyforblokes),andif aneveningthereisntenough,bydayyou canattendlan-guageclasses,andthereis promiseofa12-personscreeningroom. Vlkova26;blindeye.cz

BUZA I AND BUZA IIDUBROVNIK Lookfora smallopeninginDubrovnikssouthwallbearingthesigncolddrinks.Hiddenfromtherestofthe cityyoullndtwo bars,BuzaI andBuza II,teeteringprecari-ouslyonseverallevelsof jaggedrocks60ftabovetheAdriatic.They arelittlemorethanapatio,seatsandastrawroof(andthe toiletsarea whiffy,y-

infestedshed),but itshandsdownoneofthemost romanticbarsinthe world.OrderanOzujskobeerand lapupthateye-wateringlybeautifulsunset.Theresno phonenumberandnoweb-site,butwordof mouthmeansyoullalwaysnda crowdhere. SouthofMainSt,OldTown

CAFE BARRITAHAVANATheart-decofrontageofthevastformerheadquartersof BacardiisoneofHavanasmosteye-catchingbuild-ingsalthoughits nowhometomoremundaneoffi ces.Buthidden awayontherstooris thefabulouslyornateCafeBarrita,whichdoesa spectacularlineinmojitos.Askat thefrontdesk,andyoullbetaken upin thelift. 261Monserrate,BacardiBuilding

OCHO7OCHOBUENOS AIRESThebarmay behiddenbehindanonde-scriptdoor,butitsrelativelyeasytondbecausethe nameofthebar(eight7eight)isactuallyits streetnumber.Onceyoureinside,thespaceopensoutthebarishousedinaformertextilesfactory torevealachic,slightlyaustereinteriorwithexposedbrickworkandhighbarstoolsthataredangerouslyeasytofalloff afteronemojitotoomany. 878Thames,PalermoSoho;005411 47731098

FEATHER BOAHONG KONGWalkthroughanunmarkeddoorneartheintersectionwithPeelStreet,pushbackthe heavyvelvetcurtainandyouresuddenlytransportedfromthe21st-centuryneonofHongKong to19th-centuryParis.Thisformerantiquesshop(whichexplainssomeof thefurnishings),completewitha goldfabric-coveredceiling,doesanice lineinpotentdaiquiris,althoughitdoes getverybusy.Getthereearlyand bagoneofthecomfy sofasbythe door. 38StauntonSt,HongKong;00 85228572586

YONGFOO ELITESHANGHAI Originallya privatemembersclub,it isnowpossibletogetintoYongFooElite,althoughyoualwaysneedtoreservewhetheritsforlunch,drinksorsupper.Theformerhomeof theBritish

consulate,thebeautiful1930svillagiveslittlesignofits exoticinteriorsfromthetree-linedstreet,butinsideit offersaglimpseintoShanghaisglamorouspast;takecocktailsintheCrystalbar,sonamedbecauseofthetwoRomancol-umnscarvedfromnaturalcrystal,andkeepaneyeout forA-listcelebsTomCruisehasbeenspotted. 200Yongfu;00862154662727;yong-fooelite.com

NEW GOLD MOUNTAINMELBOURNEMelbourneisrenownedforits secretbars,butfew pulloff thegiddy-hot-pink-inside anonymous-nationaswellas NewGoldMountain.Theformertailorsstudio,ontheoutskirtsofChinatowndownacob-bledalleyway,has twoseparateareas.Thedownstairsroom,alllushscarletdecoranddim lighting,has adistinctlyopium-denfeel,whiletheupstairsroomiskitsch-pink,withantiquefurnitureanda neatlinein sours.Musicisunpredictable,lurchingfrom1930sswingto1970s newwave,whichappealstothe slightlyoldercrowd. 21LiverpoolStreet;006139650 8859;newgoldmountain.org

TONIC LOUNGESYDNEYThislookslikea normalhouseinaKingsCrossterracedstreet,butonceinside...itstillfeelslike amateshouse,onlyonewitha slightlykitschtasteininteriors.Lushred drapes,shabbyvel-vetcouchesandchaise longuescreateaboudoir-ishfeel,matchedby thecock-tails theraspberryandlycheemartiniisa housefavourite.The loungeiswherethebandplays andwherethestaff dispensedrinks,and therearesev-eralsmallerroomsall dimlylitandcosyalthoughthereis spaceto danceinthemain room.GuestDJsplayraregroovesand laid-backsoulclassicsthevibeis verymuchrelaxedhouse-partyratherthanillicitrave. 62-64KellettSt;00 61283541544;toniclounge.com.au

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ONTHEWEBTellusaboutyourown favouritesecretbars

ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/speakeasys

THE DOUBLE CLUBLONDONCarstenHllermaybemost famousintheUKfortheslideshesetupintheTurbineHallat TateModern,buthisnewproject apart-Congolese,part-Europeanbar andrestaurantinan unmarkedwarehousebehindAngeltubestation isno lessquirky.TherestaurantservesCongoleseandEuropeanfood,whiletheclub mixeswesternandCongolesemusic.Thecourtyardbarareaofferscocktails,Congolesebeersand westernspirits. 7TorrensStreetEC1;02078372222;thedoubleclub.co.uk

FRENCH LOVEPARISTuckedawaybehinda discreetdooronaquiet roadoff theChampsElyses,FrenchLoveisa throwbacktothedayswhentheareawas fullofhostessebars.FormerlyLeChristine,thebarhasretaineda distinctlysexyfeel,withbre-opticstarsinthe ceiling,crystalchandeliers,boudoirlampsand aredLondonphoneboxthathas beentrans-formedintoa smokingbooth.Thisisalate-nighthangout dontexpectthingstolivenup untilabout3am. 37ruede Ponthieu,8e

JENSEITSVIENNAAlthoughthereisa tinysign,itsveryeasytomissandeasiertothinkthebaris closed.Ringthedoorbell,how-ever,andyouare usheredintoascarlet-walledden,withgold drapesandwarmlightinggivingproceedingsa sultry,boudoirfeel probablybecauseitwasa brothelina formerlife.Thethir-tysomethingcrowdmay lookgrown-up,but thetinydanceoor isalwayspacked,regardlessofthesometimeseclecticplaylists(whichcanrangefromrockabillyto schlager Austriancountrymusic).Cocktailstakea whiletomix,but theyreworththewait. Nelkengasse3;00 431587 1233;tanzcafe-jenseits.com

DOOR 74AMSTERDAMOpenedinOctoberlast year,thisbarliesbehindanunobtrusiveshopfrontinthe centreofthecity.Slicklydeckedoutin mutedbrownsandgolds,this isagrown-upbar forgrown-updrinking;ifthe greenlightison (whichitshouldbefromTuesdaysto Sundays)ring thebellandyouwillbeguidedpastthecurtainsto abar wherecocktailswithnameslikeRemembertheMaine(whisky,absintheandvermouth)andChestersLast Word(MountGayrum,greenchartreuse,maraschino)aremixedwitha knowledgableair. NearRembrandtSquare;0031 634045122;do or74.nl

GREENWICH BARBERLINGreenwichBar wascreatedbyHeinzGindullisthe manbehindCookies,oneofBerlinsmostelusivenightclubs,whichoftenmoveslocationtokeepclubbersontheirtoes.The Greenwich,inthe highlyhipMittedistrict,adherestothe sameprinciplesbyhavingnei-thertelephonenumbernorwebsite;althoughitremainsin thesameplace,hiddenbehindanunmarkeddoor,withnohintof thesleekdecorwithin

ribbedlimesofasand agiant shtank.

Fromfarleft:old-schoolglamouratChicagosTheVioletHour,Viennassult ryJenseits,andthehipandcavernousLarryLawrencebarinWilliamsburg,NewYork.PhotographbyMichaelRobinson

Grown-updrinkingatAmsterdamsDoor74.