Oak Hall

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Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011 REFLECTING ON FALL INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY

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INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011 With best wishes always, Will, Bill and Bob Levy and your friends at Oak Hall 2 Passion for Life 15MilMil15 Suit APPAREL FOR MEN TO SEE MORE OF THE FALL COLLECTION, WWW.SCOTTBARBER.COM MUST-HAVES FOR FALL 2011 LUSCIOUS LACE Jason Wu lace panel sheath dress Kenneth Jay Lane pearl stud earrings Spanx tights PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEAN BLOEMER

Transcript of Oak Hall

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011

REFLECTING ON FALL

INSPIRATION: IRELANDSTYLE MATTERS

CLOSET THERAPY

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ere at Oak Hall and at our “vineyard vines by Oak Hall” stores in Memphis and Nashville, we’ve been preparing forthe transition from summer to fall and winter for over a year, in an effort to turn your shopping this season into an enjoyableadventure worthy of multiple visits to all three stores to see what’s new in the coming months.

Within this issue, you’ll find articles on people, fashions and lifestyle that we thought you’d find of interest, as well as ourMust-Haves feature that highlights the selections our buying team has made with your input in mind.

No business could flourish for 152 years as Oak Hall has without embracing the latest technology. We have accomplished thiswith our updated website, an active presence on Facebook and communicating via email to thousands of our customers, likeyou, to inform you of in-store special events, trunk shows and special offers throughout the year.

Your loyalty, support and friendship over the years drives us to try to exceed your expectations every time you walk throughour door. We thank you and look forward to seeing you many times in the coming months at one, two, or all three of our stores.

With best wishes always,Will, Bill and Bob Levy and your friends at Oak Hall

WELCOME TO THE FALL 2011 ISSUE OFOAK HALL FORUM MAGAZINE

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Passion for Life15MilMil15 Suit

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TO SEE MORE OF THE FALL COLLECT ION, WWW.SCOTTBARBER.COM

APPAREL FOR MEN

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LUSCIOUS LACEJason Wu lace panel sheath dressKenneth Jay Lane pearl stud earringsSpanx tights

Oak HallMUST-HAVES FOR FALL 2011

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LIFE OF THE PARTYISAIA suits, shirts and silk tiesEdward Armah pocket circles

Max Mara crimson dress

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SLEEK AND CHICA.L.C. deep-V jumpsuit DebraJill link necklace

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WELL SUITEDZ Zegna suit, Eton shirt

Zegna tie, Torino beltEdward Armah pocket circle

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EDGY ELEGANCEKarolina Zmarlak apron dressDebraJill earrings

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LUXURIOUS FURSCanali sportcoat, Eton shirt

Hiltl flannel pant, Charvet knit tieLuisa Cerano fur vest and silk

dress, Shannon Carney earringsCassin metallic belt

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THE LADY IN WINTERLida Baday silk blouse and tweed skirt Max Mara Collection fur capeletHaute Hippie snakeskin clutchDebraJill earrings

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MATCHED TO PERFECTIONCanali sportcoat, Eton shirt, Hiltl five-pocket pant

Edward Armah pocket circle

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SEQUINS AND SHINEAlice + Olivia beaded dressB. May snakeskin clutchDebraJill earrings

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WARM UP TO SPORTSWEARJack Victor pinstripe sportcoat

Peter Millar sport shirt and quarter-zip sweaterEdward Armah pocket circle

Johnstons scarf

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GREEN WITH ENVYLela Rose peplum sweater dress Haute Hippie cuff and snakeskin clutchDebraJill earrings

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MIX IT UPBilly Reid gingham shirt, striped

flannel sportcoat, wool/silk tieand Sunday jacket

Diesel jeansTorino belt

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TYING THE KNOTBorgo jacket, Henley sweater, sportshirt and scarf Citizens of Humanity jeansHaute Hippie feather knit vest, tank,silk mermaid skirt and belt

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PLAID ‘N PROUDMason’s sport shirtKroon sportcoat AG jeansJohnstons scarf

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CLASSICALLY CASUALBills Khakis sport shirt and corduroys

Barbour jacketTorino belt

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THE LEATHER SKIRTJil Sander Navy oriented silk blouseand leather pencil skirt Be & D chain clutch

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COLOR BLOCK DETAILRachel Roy leather yoke dressDebraJill earrings and bracelet

Be & D calf hair tote

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KICK BACKAgave jeans, T-shirt and snap poloMoore & Giles messenger bag

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GEOMETRIC PRINTSCut 25 blouse and print skirtKarolina Zmarlak silk jacket

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SUBTLE PATTERN PLAYRobert Talbott sport shirt and button-neck sweater

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GET UP AND GOAgave jeans and polo

Moore & Giles bag

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WEEKEND COMFORTMason’s shirtAG corduroysCosta sunglasses

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LAYERS OF FUNSouthern Tide T-shirt, wovenshirt and quarter-zip pullover

Diesel jeans

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TAKE YOUR PICKJohnstons scarvesKroon sportcoats

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THE MUST-HAVE JACKETBarbour jacket

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KEEPING WARMBarbour women’s International jacket

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PLAIDS, PLAIDS, PLAIDSMason’s sport shirts

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THE PERFECT BLANKETJohnstons lambswool blanket

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MAD FOR PLAIDSScott Barber sport shirts

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WHERE THE WILD THINGS AREGryson foldover satchel Ampersand as Apostrophe small pony Aztec bagGryson leather satchelAmpersand as Apostrophe large pony Aztec bagGryson leather hobo

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LIQUID METALRebecca Minkoff bronze

clutch and pumps

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SOCK IT TO MEV. K. Nagrani dress socks

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PICK YOUR PATTERNStefano Ricci silk ties

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BELT IT OUTSmathers & Branson collegiate belts

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GAME DAY READYSouthern Tide striped polos

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Q:My girlfriend has been buying mescarves but I have no idea how to

wear them. Are they in style?Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky handknits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpinedesigns, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to yourlook. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrapyour favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try theEuropean way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around yourneck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache.And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a greatfashion accent, whatever the weather.

Q:Magazines show bright color pants,yet on the streets, most guys wear

jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color? Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely anew direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contempo-rary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, givethem a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard towear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England fordecades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket modelsin neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill andcorduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers,there’s no need to be boring—or bored.

Q:Why buy clothing in a specialty storewhen so much is available online?

While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats.First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods forall accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discountsite or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the“same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independ-ent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners andtrained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputationdepends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closetmakeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closetand update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it alltogether. In addition, store owners stand behind their product,so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.

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ASKFORUMOAK Ask Forum for Him.qxp:AskForum_Him 7/18/11 2:36 PM Page 44

go tofacebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite

thing about Oak Hall and be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500

eton shopping spree.

fine shirt maker since 1928

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Q:I wear jeans almost everywhere, but wish Ihad alternatives. Can you recommend some

other stylish options? Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not your typi-cal jeans, the new colored denim adds personality to allkinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean (preferablyskinny ankle length with heels or boots) worn with a con-trasting bright top, or else with neutrals. As for your regularblue denim jeans, slim is still in but so are wide legs andflares. You really need both styles this season.

Q:I own a few scarves but am not sure how towear them. Any ideas?

Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, incashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonallyand drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in your hand-bag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong, fold it inhalf and put the ends through the loop (very European) orelse wrap it a few times around your neck or waist, or evenyour handbag. Stop by and we’d be happy to demonstrate.And while you’re here, check out our newly arrived scarvesin fabulous colors and textures. With a simple top andtrousers, the scarf makes the outfit (and makes a perfect giftif you’re unsure of sizes)!

Q:Are leggings still in style? (I see so manywomen wear them who shouldn’t...)

Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add ayouthful flair to almost any outfit. They make maturewomen look young and chic, they cover winter-white legswhen there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re generally veryslimming.

Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sure towear a long enough top so that your derrière is completelycovered. If you don’t own the right long tops (and there areplenty of gorgeous ones in our store for fall), you can wearyour leggings with a flowy dress or even a pencil skirt andhigh-heeled wedges. In fact, good-quality leggings makeeverything you own look just a little more hip.

Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you how.

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y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired

from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back asdesigner of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused onUSA-made quality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-

ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers

know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me

to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. Ifound my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get

her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, ourson Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t

compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.

We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.

What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.

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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections

A DECADE OF AGAVE

AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR

ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST

DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN

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www.gitman.com

(made in usa)

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dward Armah isnot your typicalfashion designer.Born in Ghana(his dad was a civil servant, his mom had a clothing business),he studied economics and political science but dropped it all forsewing school. (Needless to say, his family was not thrilled…) Hespent some time in London working on Jermyn Street where he

mastered the art of English sartorial dressing (“it’s all about propor-tion”), then came to the States and studied tailoring. Working at anexclusive department store, Armah would get more compliments on theclothes he was wearing, particularly his colorful bowties and pocketsquares, than on the clothes he was selling. So with a little help from hisfriends, he quit his day job and launched his own business, patenting aningeniously engineered silk bowtie that can be worn four different ways(and is uniquely shaped for a fuller bow).

His bowties and pocket squares (that he first made in the basement ofhis house in New Jersey) were an instant hit, but Armah longed to createsomething different. On a whim, he once wore a lace doily in his pocketand got barraged with compliments. So he made up a few pocket “circles”and a new business was born. Today, he produces about 500 pocket cir-cles a week, all made by artisans in NYC. Linen was hot this summer; forfall 2011, he’s using Italian silk and cashmere/wool, and fringed edges.

When he’s not traveling around the country to the finest stores inAmerica, Armah loves spending time with his wife and 18-month-old son,Manasse. He’s also very involved with organizations like Big BrothersBig Sisters, where he teaches school-age kids to follow their dreams.

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POCKET CIRCLES (AND BOWTIES)ARE THE NEW FOOLPROOF WAYTO DRESS FASHIONABLY. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

DON’T BESQUARE

A pocket circleadds instant cooland charisma toyour sportcoat.(And you can’tpossibly fold itwrong!)

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“THE ACCESSORIESMAKE THE SUIT,”SAYS DESIGNER

EDWARD ARMAH.

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FALL AND WINTER ARE JUSTHEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSELTRENDS

FORMEN

style

The runways of Milan, New Yorkand Paris showcase fashion at itsmost extravagant. Limited editionwool suits and belts made from the mostexotic skins were paraded out to cause astir—and it worked.

Thankfully there’s more to menswearthan one-off pieces singularly designedwith connoisseurs in mind. This fall,men’s clothing and accessory makershave created some of their most variedand versatile collections to meet theeveryday needs of the stylish modernman. Sharp suits and sportcoats in arich array of autumnal colors andtweedy textures, sporty jackets made ofweatherproof materials, big bold knits insolids and multi-hued variations, andeven a resurgence of cashmere, cor-duroy and camel hair are wearable andon-trend. So whether you’re loungingaround the house, dashing to the office,going for a weekend road trip, or prepar-

A patternedsportcoat can bedressed up ordown, and adouble-breastedcamel peacoatsatisfies threetrends in one.

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ing for that big formal affair, thisfall’s offerings have you covered.

DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the officein classic pinstripes or subtle win-dowpane patterns, these samejackets come alive at night whenpaired with casual slacks andjeans, coincidentally the way mostreal men now define weekendwear. If you want to try somethingnew, check out this year’s crop ofdouble-breasted jackets, or DBs, asthey’re known. Nearly everydesigner from Armani to Zegna isbanking on double-breasted suitsplaying a starring role in men’swardrobes, this fall and beyond. Tothat end, double-breasted jackets

come in many variations, from lowfour-button models with softshoulders and very straight lapelsto serious, military-inspired highsix- and even eight-button, peaklapel jackets with strong shouldersand streamlined waists. Many ofthese shapes also carry over intoouterwear and sportcoats.

SWEET PEAS The pea coat originat-ed in the 18th century, when thedurable jackets were used to clothesailors and other military person-nel who found the “pij” material(from the Dutch word pijjekkermeaning twilled cloth) used tomake them incredibly warm.Modern menswear makers couldnot have foreseen record cold tem-peratures across the globe whenthey developed their own versionsof these hearty coats, but rest

assured that the double-breastedtoppers are ready to work doubleduty when necessary.

STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes inmany sizes—from pinwale to extrawide wale—and this season topbrands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna,Loro Piana and Canali have

employed the time-honored ribbedcloth in everything from jeans,jackets and sport shirts to outer-wear, blazers, and even tailoredclothing. Pinwale corduroy in acotton/cashmere blend is HugoBoss’s top dog this season, whilecashmere kingpin BrunelloCucinelli prefers brushed corduroyfor his collection of quilted coats.

OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in aman’s wardrobe have ever beenmore luxurious than a camel topcoat. Now that familiar topper—astaple of 1930s and 1940sHollywood royalty—has been rein-terpreted in everything from carcoats and high-waisted trousers tosportcoats and even full camel hair(or colored) suits. Designers asdiverse as Hermès, GiorgioArmani, Tom Ford andErmenegildo Zegna offered just apreview of the full camel stampedeto come this winter.

TECHNO? TECH YES! RememberZegna’s imaginative I Jacket withits built-in touch control panel atthe cuff, allowing one to interfacewith his iPod without touching it?Or how about Loro Piana’s innova-tive Storm System technology,which renders even the most opu-lent fabrics like superfine wool andcashmere water repellent? Thosebrilliant ideas have come full circleand spawned a whole generation ofhigh tech, high style garments.Whether it’s a polyester and nylonjacket that actually breathes as thetemperature rises, or a top coatdesigned with touch technologythat lets you hide your electronicsand control them remotely, thisseason, it’s high style to wearsomething high tech.

Technicallyspeaking... Thiswool and down

jacket offersThermore

insulation andtaped seams for

waterproofperformance.

THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEARSOMETHING HIGH TECH.>>

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robe 1941

Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese FalconDetective Sam Spade: cunningsleuth, dapper dresser

1962Sean Connery in Dr. NoA rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedomore often than not. Whatever the occasion, hisfirearm (in this case, a Smith & Wesson CentennialAirweight) is never far from sight.

1974Robert Redford in The Great GatsbyRalph Lauren outfitted the entirecast for the movie adaptation ofF. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel.

1959Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that youcan still look put togetherand polished while runningfrom the bad guys.

70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

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1980John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in TheBlues Brothers

1994Jim Carrey and JeffDaniels in Dumb and Dumber

2007Rowan Atkinsonin Mr. Bean’sHoliday

SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOWTHESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLSPROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUTYOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT.

1987Michael Douglas in Wall StreetFat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the1980s. The pleated pants popular thenare just starting to reappear on runways,but haven’t yet made it mainstream.

2001George Clooney and Brad Pitt inOcean’s ElevenUnbuttoned elegance as the bigscreen’s most charismatic criminals

1992The cast of Reservoir DogsThese guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties.

2011The cast of The Adjustment BureauWhile overcoats and fedoras are classics,the style in multiples is downrightintimidating. These men mean business!

1980Richard Gere in American GigoloArmani became a household nameafter outfitting gigolo Julian in hissignature suits.

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EXCLUSIVELY AT OAK HALL

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Fall 2011 has us dreamingabout texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft waysto stay warm this fall...

life is but a

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Kurhajek | STYLING: Wendy McNett | HAIR & MAKEUP: Claire Bailey

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DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AAAAAAAAAAAAA LLLLLLLLLLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEE DDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OOOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF.........

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WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!

Studies show that well-dressed men

get higher paying jobs, enjoy better

social status and are more attractive to

the opposite sex.

Here are some simple tips on how

to spruce up your look, because

yes, style matters!

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BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.

WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL

FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)

CAN BE BUILT.

1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual

simple updates forall your modes...

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Plaid ClassicA great neutral

plaid adds instant

style to jeans and

moves gracefully

from offi ce to

dinner.

Color StatementA bolder plaid

in rich fall colors

adds excitement

to solid basics

and layers well

with sweaters.

THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL

Dressy Casual

No single item is more effective in transforming

a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes

a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and

concealing all the right body parts...

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UnconstructedA soft, unlined

jacket is an

indispensible

basic this season.

It looks casually

elegant and fi ts like

a second skin!

CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm and

versatile, corduroy

has come back

with a vengeance.

Soft CashmereUnconstructed

and elegant, it

works with dress

pants, jeans and

everything in

between.

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The IntellectualAdd a sweater

to a windowpane

wool suit for a

super smart look.

The Young TurkA well-cut dark

suit can take you

everywhere... and

a great wool tie is

an easy way

to add some

personality.

The PlayerA fun shirt (without

a tie) with an open

suit jacket is a

refreshing

upgrade

to jeans.

Sartorial

FITThe New

Slimmer

Silhouette

is here

to stay

From a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,

one properly fi tting neutral suit in a transitional

fabric is an essential basic for the well-

dressed man.

(NEW)

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The StatesmanHerringbone in

warm fall tones

plus a buttoned

vest spells

confi dence.

The MogulNavy pinstripe

suit, blue shirt,

red tie, slim cut...

need we say

more?

whichSUITSyou?

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Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,

double breasted-

jacket is as warm

as it is fl attering.

Weekend OutingCold, blustery

days can be faced

in style with an

elegant update to

the classic parka.

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Soccer SidelinesThrow a great

scarf over a

versatile pullover

and be the

best looking

dad on the fi eld.

Country DriveGo antiquing and

lunching in style in

a chocolate suede

driving jacket,

also perfect for

everyday.

Sporty Casual

RELAXEDSTYLE

Whether it’s

the weekend,

or you just

want it to

feel that way.

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COLD COMFORTA

s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,

cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L

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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

GREEK REVIVALA

few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi

monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.

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DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON

LAFAYETTE148.COM

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COUNTRY CHICI

n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s

the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.

GILT TRIPA

long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing,guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot ofthe Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for

the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauf-feured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted choco-lates and a bottle of Champagne are provided),which brings you to the Money Museum. Here,caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, whereover $20 million dollars worth of paper money andrare coins, including the most comprehensive col-lection of American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of the muse-um joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminatesat the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef RémyFünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.

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A STRETCH OF BEACHA

mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish eventthat’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, resi-

dents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and firsttimers alike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate SouthBeach insider happening, which attracts vacationingBroadway stars and fashion editors, among others, hasbeen meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for thepast 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons. D

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arlier this year, an exhibit called Guitar Heroes: LegendaryCraftsmen from Italy to New York opened at theMetropolitan Museum of Art. Featured were the handcraftedguitars of three 20th-century Italian-American master crafts-men: John D’Angelico, James D’Aquisto and JohnMonteleone, who from workshops in NYC sought to carry onthe traditions of centuries-old European masters.

In preserving these age-old techniques, these craftsmen haveinspired a new generation. Among the best, Jens Ritter is a young Germanluthier from the quiet village of Deidesheim, near the RhineRiver in the heart of Germany’s wine country.

Ritter, who pro-duces 50 to 60 instru-ments a year with thehelp of a single skilledassistant, introduced his firstbass guitars in 1995. They causedan immediate sensation based on theirsheer beauty, innovative designs andremarkable sound. The exquisitelines and symmetry of his instru-

ments are simply breathtaking; his fertile imagination has yieldeddesigns from medieval to futuristic. Add in the warmth and beauty ofexotic hardwoods and other natural materials (sometimes even preciousgemstones!) or the stark high-tech sleekness of mixed synthetics, and it’sclear why Ritter’s guitars are coveted by top players (George Benson, PhilLesh, Josh Dunham) around the world.

We recently caught up with Ritter, who was in New York City to to see the GuitarHeroes exhibit at the Met and for this exclusive interview with Forum magazine.

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LIKE FINE CUSTOM CLOTHING,A GUITAR BY JENS RITTER IS ONE-OF-A-KIND, HANDCRAFTED, STEEPEDIN TRADITION. BY BILL WEISS

GUITAR HERO

Known as theGermanStradivari, JensRitter pushesthe limits ofhis craft.

icons

“I’M NOT KNOWN FOR FOLLOWING RULES; IPREFER TO EXPERIMENT WITH NEW IDEAS.”

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How did you get started?I played bass in a band as ateenager and was never happywith the instruments. I didn’t havethe money to buy an expensivebass guitar so I tried to modifyparts of my instrument to make itbetter, like changing the electron-ics and eventually cutting and saw-ing the body to change the shapeand weight and maybe improve theergonomics. Eventually I was ableto buy some high quality wood andspent lots of time designing andbuilding my own bass. It helpedthat my grandfather was a wood-worker who taught me how to han-dle wood and treat wood surfaces.

What makes your instru-ments so special?They’re super custom-made butwithin aesthetic limits, kind of likea custom suit. I’m not knownfor following traditional rulesand I love to pursue newdesigns, try new woods,experiment with new sur-faces. Sometimes I’ll try devel-oping a new instrument formyself or to demonstrate at atrade show, and the responsemight lead to new ideas.

Are your instruments art?Once considered a functional tool,the guitar is now a huge culturalsymbol, a valued entity in itself.Years back, the guitar heroes werethe musicians who played theinstruments, not the craftsmen whodesigned and built them. Think ofJimi Hendrix: He’d pour lighterfluid on his guitar and burn it onstage, like he did in 1967 at thefamous Monterey Pop Festival.Today those guitars are famous ontheir own; even burned ones havesold for hundreds of thousands of

dollars, just so someone can hangthem on their wall as a holy relic.What was once a simple tool of themusician has evolved into function-al art, achieving its own identity asa cultural symbol.

I’m very gratified that mydesigns are perceived as art at thesame time they’re played on stagesall over the world. On occasion,I’ve sold instruments to art collec-tors and museums for display only.

What are you working onthese days?I’m mostly filling orders from thetrade shows in L.A. and Frankfurt,but I’m also developing a new gui-tar model scheduled for release inJanuary 2012, and creating a newsignature six-string bass guitar forThe Grateful Dead’s Phil Lesh.

What’s the best part of yourwork?To be immersed in inter-

national culture isan incredible blessing. To possiblyinfluence it—now that’s intense!

Above: A colorful

example ofRitter’s more

outrageous side Below: Mary J.Blige is one ofmany celebrity

clients.

I’M VERY GRATIFIED THAT MY DESIGNS ARE PERCEIVED AS ART AT THESAME TIME THEY’RE PLAYED ON STAGES ALL OVER THE WORLD.”

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e live in an excit-ing time when itcomes to drinks.The so-calledCocktailRevolution, invok-ing premium spir-its, fresh ingredi-

ents and careful measures, hasevolved beyond trendy neo-

speakeasies to rooftop lounges andnightclubs. But this revolution isalso an evolution, for ‘round thecorner, another intrepid bartenderis crafting the next big drink.

Organic Ingredients: Five years ago,only a handful of organic spiritsexisted. Today there are organictequilas, vodkas, single malts, bit-

ters, even sake. “To get USDA cer-tification is very hard,” says HenrySiedel of Chikurin, the onlyJapanese sake to hold that distinc-tion. Not only does the rice need tobe grown sans pesticides, but irri-gation floodwaters from neighbor-ing farms have to be gunk-free aswell. In most cases, you’re doingmore to protect the environment

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FASTER THAN YOU CAN ORDER A MANHATTAN, ANOTHER COCKTAILTREND AWAITS YOU. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

CUTTING-EDGECOCKTAILS

This may seem like an ordinarygin and tonic, but it features of-the-moment bar trends likehand-cracked Kold Draft ice,fresh small-bottle tonic, andtrendy Copa glassware.

spiri

ts

THIS REVOLUTION ISALSO AN EVOLUTION,

FOR ‘ROUND THECORNER, ANOTHER

INTREPID BARTENDERIS CRAFTING THE NEXT

BIG DRINK.

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than your own body. But still, whoneeds Monsanto in their Mojito?

Says Paul Abercrombie, authorof Organic, Shaken and Stirred(Harvard Common Press, 2009):“People [should] care about what’sin their glass, the same way theycare about what’s on their plate.”

Aged Cocktails: The hottest geektrend of 2011: mixing up batches ofclassic cocktails, dropping theminto used whiskey barrels or othercontainers, and aging for severalweeks. Jeffrey Morgenthaler, barmanager at Portland’s ClydeCommon, is widely credited forkicking off the trend in the U.S.

Aging a cocktail does the samething as aging whiskey or tequila:“The edges are softened, but not ina way that makes the drink seemflabby,” says Morgenthaler.

“Anything with vermouth or forti-fied wine will be lightly oxidizedand gain earthy notes that lend a lotof depth.” A second- or third-usebarrel, like a bourbon or sherry cask,will also influence the final drink.

You’ll find aged cocktails in top-tier bars around the country,including the Boxcar Bar (Austin),

Girl & The Goat (Chicago), GrantHotel (San Diego, where guestscan purchase aged cocktails by thebottle), and Summit Bar(Manhattan). London’s Artesianbar, meanwhile, is mashing two hottrends by offering barrel-aged MaiTais featuring clarified lime juice.

Act quickly if you hear of a newbarrel being tapped at yourfavorite watering hole: Innovativebatches can be drained in a singlenight by thirsty fans.

Farm-to-Bar: As in the restaurantworld, bartenders are hot on local,farm-fresh ingredients. “Guestslove a drink with a homegrownangle,” says Evan Powell, themixologist for Fish restaurant inCharleston, SC. “I grow about adozen herbs, including chocolatemint, lemon thyme and shiso.” AtIdaho’s Shore Lodge in McCall, thestaff picks wild huckleberries formixologist John Wood’shuckleberry mojito. Meanwhile, inSan Francisco, the Fairmont israising its own honeybees andusing the fresh honey in cocktails.And Murf Reeves at New Orleans’Sylvain puts his 15 years as a cook

to good use behind the bar,emphasizing regional foodpairings with mixed drinks.

House-Made Mixers: “Bitters is one ofthe three major components ofclassic cocktails,” says James Leeof Boulder, CO’s Bitter Bar. Theonce-ubiquitous astringent infu-sions are now used mostly toenhance aromas in cocktails. “Youcan’t really substitute forAngostura or Peychaud’s wherethey’re called for, but otherwise,the sky’s the limit.” Lee and histeam make their own bitters usingingredients like Japanese five-spice, grapefruit and (in season)Rainier cherry bitters. At the newLexington Social House in L.A.,you’ll find house-made yuzu, laven-der and orange bitters, along withThai chili-infused simple syrupand even their own version of PopRocks to rim glasses.

For the new Theater Bar in NewYork City, owner/bartender AlbertTrummer takes the house-madeconcept to new heights. The barmakes all its own liqueurs, tinc-tures, bitters and more, co-createdwith a doctor versed in homeo-pathic medicine. “Cordials thathave artificial colorings and sweet-eners sit on your liver, along withthe alcohol,” says Theater bar-tender Duane Fernandez. “At theend of the day, even with cocktails,you want the most natural productyou can have in your body.”

What’s coming up next? We’realready witnessing single filteredvodkas that actually have flavor,craft distilleries in almost everystate, and 18th-century punchbowls that seduce scenesters anddrinkers alike. Drop in to yourfavorite bar to discover what yourown Mad Mixologist is concocting.

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Both complexpunch bowls andobscure Europeandigestifs takecenter stage incocktails at manyof the trendiestbars around thecountry.

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t’s a crisp fall day, perfect fora bike ride in the park orbrunch with friends at an out-door cafe. But thanks to theFrench Culinary Institute, Iam instead joining 200 otherfood enthusiasts at the thirdannual New York Culinary

Experience. The event raisesmoney for the The Future ChefsScholarship Fund, enabling aspir-ing chefs to attend culinary insti-tutes. It’s also a unique opportu-

nity to spend two days with theworld’s most renowned chefs.

For foodies, tasting a truly greatdish is pure bliss. But cooking sideby side with illustrious chefs likeTodd English, Morimoto, MarcusSamuelsson and Jacques Torres,among many others, is ecstacy.

Participants attend two classeseach day. Between morning andafternoon sessions, lunch seminarsfeature conversations with

key experts. In the evening, winereceptions and tastings provide yetanother opportunity to get up-closeand personal with culinary heroes.

Unlike other “fantasy foodcamps” I’ve attended, these classeswere truly interactive. For starters,a pastry class with Gina di Palma,who insists that baking need notbe an exact science: even if resultsvary, it will likely still be

PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR

COOKING WITHTHE STARS

food

WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.

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delicious! Next, bouillabaisse withAlain Sahlac, Dean of the FrenchCulinary Institute, a warm, gentleFrenchman who instructed us inthe fine art of putting lobsters tosleep. Then we prepared pan roast-ed duck and asparagus with Comtécheese foam with David Bouley, afan of healthful artisanal cooking.

My final class was Thanksgiving-themed, led by superstar chef ToddEnglish, whose demonstrationswere entertaining and informativewith a side order of dry humor. Tobreak with the whole-bird tradi-tion, we made a cornbread stuffedboneless roast turkey breast (andeven took home ingredients forour own Thanksgiving feasts).

After spending my entire careeraround fashion’s who’s who, thesewonderful food masters havebecome my new rockstars. Iremain their ever-devoted groupie.

Previous page,left: David Bouleywith his students

Right: Panroasted duck

This page, left:Todd English

slices stuffedturkey breast. Right: English

tops off hispumpkin lasagna.

The next NewYork Culinary

Experience willbe held on April28th and 29th,

2012. [email protected]

to request moreinformation.

PUMPKIN LASAGNARecipe by Todd EnglishServes 2

Ingredients:1 sugar pumpkin7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta(substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta)1/2 cup mascarpone cheese1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie1/4 cup ground almonds1/2 cup parmesan cheese, gratedbutternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish

For the Butternut Squash Sauce:(Yields 1 quart)1 butternut squash1 sprig rosemary, choppedsalt and pepper, to taste2 cups half and half2 cups heavy cream2 oz. butter1/4 cup maple syrup

Directions: Peel the squash and dice into large

pieces. Place the squash in saucepot and add the liquids and rose-mary. Slowly cook until the squashbecomes soft. Drain off the liquidand reserve. Place the squash intoblender. Add just enough liquid tocover, then blend and add butter.Adjust seasoning and consistency.

Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoopout seeds and any membrane.Clean seeds and toast separately.Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40minutes, or until inside meat iscooked. Turn oven down to 350°F.Toss pasta in butternut squashsauce. Lay one sheet of pasta inthe bottom of the pumpkin. Spread1-2 tablespoons of mascarponecheese on top, then sprinkle alayer of cookie, almond andparmesan. Continue layering untilpumpkin is filled. Top with parme-san cheese and bake 30 minutes.

Garnish with watercress and serve.

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Isaia.indd 1 7/12/11 4:40 PM

SIMON MULLIGAN, PIANISTWhen a lady with a piano moved in next door to the Mulligans inWest London, Simon wandered over and started picking out tunes.The Mulligans were quite surprised since, at three years old, Simonhad never taken a lesson; they had a piano prodigy on their hands.

Simon went on to study at the Royal Academy of Music and was“discovered” by legendary violinist Yehudi Menuhin. He hastoured with cellist Lynn Harrell and violinist Joshua Bell. Whetherplaying classical or jazz, Simon remarks, “It’s a thrill to work withmusicians from different backgrounds and countries. Whether atthe Cornelia Street Café in New York or on a huge concert stage, Ilove sitting down at the piano and sharing the music.”PERSONAL STYLE: “On stage, I wear a suit made for me by Sir HardyAmies, famed Savile Row tailor to the royals, or bespoke suits fromanother Savile Row house, William Hunt. Off stage, the word ‘met-rosexual’ was coined for me.”MUSICAL TASTE: “Tower of Power, Steely Dan, Joe Cocker, Tom Jonesand Amy Winehouse.”FOOD & WINE: “I love to cook, particularly hearty dishes paired withgreat wine. I also pride myself on getting my young son, Jasper, toeat foods he claims to hate.”FOR FUN: “Host dinner parties, where I cook and play the piano.”VACATION SPOTS: “Corsica, or wine country in France.”

COLIN JACOBSEN, VIOLINISTERIC JACOBSEN, CELLISTThe Jacobsen brothers were lucky from a musicalstandpoint: their father, Edmund Jacobsen, was first violinist and associate concertmaster of theMetropolitan Opera orchestra in New York. Theirmother, Ivy, was a flutist and music teacher.

As kids, they fell in love with music listeningto the musicians at their parents’ “sight reading” parties. Now, in addition to their solo careers, theJuilliard-trained Jacobsens are part of a stringquartet, Brooklyn Rider, and a 30-piece orchestra,

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music

Left: PianistSimon Mulliganloves to playanything byBeethoven.Below: EricJacobsen

CLASSICALCOOLYOUNG MUSICIANSWITH STYLE BYJACQUELIN CARNEGIE

These four talented musicians love toshare the joy of music. You may nothave heard of them yet—but you will!

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FALL 2011

Seasonal Pants,

Shirts, Outerwear,

Belts & More,

in store now!

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The Knights, conducted by Eric. They are also mem-bers of Yo-Yo Ma’s prestigious Silk Road Ensemble,which promotes cross-cultural musical exchanges.PERSONAL STYLE: Colin: “With the Silk Road Ensemble, Iwear a linen or silk shirt in ‘spice’ colors with darkslacks. With The Knights, it’s a suit and tie. The gen-tlemen of Brooklyn Rider like the vintage 1920s look.Off stage, I wear a fedora.”Eric: “On stage, I dress quite formally in custom-madeRalph Lauren suits and off-the-rack ones from Theory

that fit my 6’3” frame perfectly. A young designer,Megan Garrity, has also created outfits for me to wearin concert. Off stage, I’m in jeans.”MUSICAL TASTE: Colin: “Indie folk singers, world musiclike Iranian kamancheh player Kayhan Kalhor andBrazilian singer/guitarist Joao Gilberto, early-20thcentury classical recordings, The Beatles, Radiohead.”Eric: “Classical music and a new, young singer namedChristina Courtin.”FOOD & WINE: Eric: “I cook Italian dishes and always livenear a good butcher shop and a fresh fish market.”Colin: “I like to eat what Eric cooks.”FOR FUN: Colin: “Hiking, playing the ukulele, playingtennis, and hanging out with my wife Maile.”Eric: “Cooking and holding sight reading parties.”VACATION SPOTS: Colin: “Italy, including the AeolianIslands near Sicily, Hawaii and the fjords in Norway.”Eric: “Because of the constant touring, quiet vacationsin places during the off-season.”

NILKO ANDREAS GUARIN,CLASSICAL GUITARISTWhen Andreas was just a little boy, his father put onan old vinyl recording of the great cellist MstilavRostropovich; he was captivated by the sound.

At seven, Andreas began studying cello at theNational Conservatory of Music in Colombia, where,for fun, he’d strum the guitar. It was another record-ing, by the illustrious Andrés Segovia, that ultimatelydrew him to the classical guitar. And when theManhattan School of Music offered him a scholarshipto study it, he moved to the U.S. Andreas is now asadept at composing as playing, and has written musicfor film and theater. He’s worked with guitarists MarcRibot and Dan Zanes, Colombian singer Toto laMomposina, and will tour Europe in 2012 withAustrian violist Firmian Lermer. “I’m overjoyed whenI perform,” says Andreas. “It’s a blessing doing whatyou love most.”PERSONAL STYLE: “For a classical concert, I wear a darksuit with a bright scarf, or tails when the performancerequires it. Off stage, black is most practical in NewYork, but I always dress it up with a colorful scarf.”MUSICAL TASTE: “Classical; world music such as YoussouN’Dour from Senegal; the late flamenco singerCamarón de la Isla; traditional Colombian music.Also, Jimi Hendrix, The Beatles and lots of jazz.”FOOD & WINE: “French cuisine—artichokes with butterand steak tartare—or a good Argentine steak with aglass of Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region.”FOR FUN: “Improvising music with friends. Readingbiographies about people I admire such as the greatItalian composer Nino Rota—very inspiring! Seeingart films, walking in Central Park and playing soccer.”BEST VACATION SPOTS: “Paris, Rio de Janeiro, Colombia.”

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Right: ColinJacobsen hasenjoyed playingmusic since hewas a child.Bottom: Nilko AndreasGuarin

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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERSTO LIFE’S QUESTIONSAREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN.THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET.BY JAMES RARUS

A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm,used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is?You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. Iplay menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.

Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.

I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.

I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!

I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.

Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.

Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.

When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say,“I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that whenthey get dressed each day, they’re energized andinspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think toomuch! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”

CLOSET THERAPY

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OAK End Page_Closet Therapy.qxp:End_Page 7/18/11 2:44 PM Page 92

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FEATURES2 Welcome Letter 48 Profile: A Decade of Agave 50 Profile: Edward Armah 56 Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film 78 Icons: Guitar Hero

FASHION6 Oak Hall Must-Haves 52 Style: Trends for Men60 Life Is But a Dream 66 Why Style Matters

DEPARTMENTS 44 Ask Forum for Him46 Ask Forum for Her 74 World Scene80 Spirits: Cutting-Edge Cocktails 84 Food: Cooking With the Stars 88 Music: Classical Cool 92 End Page: Closet Therapy

28 Contents.qxp:FORUM 7/30/11 4:00 PM Page OAK2

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