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Name __________________ Notes on Waves, Tides and Coastlines

Vocabulary: Please number and define each term below in a complete sentence on a separate sheet of paper.

(Those terms that are * please illustrate) Surface Tension Crest* Trough* Wavelength*

Wave Height Amplitude Period Orbit

Deep-water Wave Swell* Fetch Episodic

Shallow Water Waves Refract Diffraction Tsunamis

Node Antinodes Diurnal Tide* Semidiurnal Tide*

Centrifugal Force Centripetal Force Tidal Day Spring Tides*

Neap Tides* Tidal Range Tidal Bore Rip Currents*

Fjord* Estuary Primary Coasts Secondary Coasts

Beach* Berm Scarp Cusps

Barrier Island * Onshore Current Longshore Current* Longshore Transport

Chapter 10: Waves

10.1 How a Wave Begins

10.2 Anatomy of Wave

1.Diagram a wave with the all of its parts: (trough, wavelength, wave height (amplitude))

10.3-4 Wave Motion and Wave Speed

1.Why is this statement wrong, explain why: Waves represent a flow of water

-Represents the flow of ___________, water doesn’t move energy flows through it, water is the

‘medium’

2.How do you calculate the speed of a wave:

-______________________________

3.Calculate (wavelength= 20 meters, wave period= 10 seconds)

-20 meters/10 seconds = _______________________

10.5 Deep-Water Waves

1.Define swell

-Large uniform waves that appear as a regular pattern of ______ and ___________

2.What are three factors that control wind-wave height

1. _________________

2. Wind Duration

3. ___________ (distance over water, wind blows in a single direction)

-Only when all three factors combine do large wind waves occur

10.6 Wave Height

1.Define episodic waves, how are they different from wind-waves how are they the same?

-Large waves up to _______________ that move up to 25 meters/second (60 mph) occur near the edge

of the Continental Shelf (600 feet) can occur due to either winds or currents

2.What are the conditions in the ocean, when winds reach speeds of 8-9 meters/second?

-1.22 to 2.44 meters in height (see page 254), a maximum wave height of _______________

Wave Steepness

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10.7 Shallow-Water Waves

1.Why do waves change directions in shallow water?

-ocean floor may be irregular, when wave begins to feel bottom in shallow water it changes its

_____________, ____________and possible direction

2. Identify:____________ of waves: Wave crest bend due to different depth changes

____________ of waves: Wave crest spread energy sideways due to a meeting with a partial barrier

10.8 The Surf Zone

1.Describe the type of beaches associated with the waves below, which breaker would a surfer prefer?

-__________________- break on narrow, steep beaches, lose energy quickly

-_______________-more common found over wider, flatter beaches== better rides for surfers

10.10 Tsunamis

1.Define Tsunami- a seismic wave caused by a sudden movement of the Earth’s crust, have very long

________________ (up to 200 kilometers)

2.What is it incorrectly called by most people? A ________________- has to do with tides!

3. Tsunami speed in the open ocean: 200-250 meters/second or ____________________

4. Tsunami height in the open ocean: ________________

5. What occurs when it reaches shallower water? Wave height dramatically increases, ____________, sea

level drops out, wave can approach in a series of waves or one large wave, depending on

____________________________________________________________

6. List some famous tsunamis, where are they all located?

1. ___________________________, Sumatra EQ led to more deaths than past 100 years- at last

count 300,000 dead

2. _________________- Coastal Submarine EQ led to a tsunami that killed 170

3. ________________- Maumere, Indonesia 82 foot tsunami killed 1,000 people

-All are located near _______________________

Tides

11.1 Standing Waves

1. Define:

-_________________- waves that reflect back on themselves

-________________- the point of least vertical motion in a standing wave

-________________-the trough and crest or alternations of high and low water

The Tides

1. Define

-_________________-Area that only receives one high and one low tide

-__________________-Area that receives 2 highs and 2 low tides

-_________________-Area where high and low tides vary in height (San Diego and Seattle)

-___________________- the force that pulls the moon away from the Earth, sending it into outer space

canceled by Earth gravity

2. How long does it take for the Earth to make one ______________? 24 hours

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3. How long does one tidal day take? Why is it different then one day’s time?

-____________________, while Earth rotates, the moon is moving eastward but fall 12 degrees (12

degrees = __________________) behind

4. Copy figure 11.6 (page 284) and indicate high where high and low tides will be, what else changes

from ‘t=0’ and ‘t=24’?

5. What is the difference between spring tides and neap tides?

-_____________ tide- new moon- Sun on same side of Earth= highest high tide

-_____________ tide- 1st, 3

rd quarter phases, Sun and Moon at right angles= lowest low tide

Real Tides in Real Oceans

Predicting Tides and Tidal Currents

1. What data does a tide table give?

______________________________________ at different locations, calculated by NOAA

11.6 Tidal Bores

1. Where do tidal bores occur, why are they hazardous?

-Large amplitude tides near shallow coasts, bays and river mouths, sometimes creating large breaking

waves up to ___________________ (Qiantang River China)

Chapter 12: Coastlines

12.2 The Coast

1.What areas does the coastal zone include?

-the ____________________________________

2. What make a primary coast different from a secondary?

-_________________- appearance is due to land processes

-___________________- appearance is due to marine processes

Types of Coasts

1. List the way two primary coasts form and examples of each:

-________________________- sea level has risen, ex. Chesapeake and Delaware Bays

-_______________________- river deposition in coastal area, ex. Mississippi and Nile river

mouths

2. List the way two secondary coasts form and examples of each:

-____________________- made by wave erosion, ex. Hawaii and California

-_________________- Shallow coasts full of sediments boardered by barrier islands, ex NJ coast

and Gulf of Mexico

12.3 Anatomy of a Beach

1. What affects the slope of a beach?

-______________________________that make up beach and ______________________

12.4 Beach Types

1. How are beaches categorized?

-_____________________________

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-Composition of beach material

-________________________

-Color of Beach

2.Describe what materials make up beaches, how do they get there?

-__________________________________________ and whatever materials are in the local

environment or from upstream, rivers bring sediments, waves and currents break apart minerals

3. Determine the origin of a:

-White Sand Beach- _____________________________

-Black Sand Beach- ______________________________

-Green Sand Beach-Specific mineral ___________________________

-Pink Sand Beach-_______________________________________

4. What color is the sand along NJ, Delaware, MD…? Where do you think these sediments originated?

-Answers should vary but mainly a ‘khaki’ color, due to mainly __________________________

- __________________ brings material from all the way in upstate New York and Poconos

-Hudson- where does it orginate?

12.4 Beach Processes

1. What causes a longshore current?

-Waves approach a beach at an __________________ creating a current in the surf zone

2. Why are longshore currents important?

-Produces longshore transport which move sediments in a __________________ direction in

North America

Coastal Circulation Cells

1. Diagram a riptide:

2. What must a swimmer know to escape a rip current?

-Always _________________________________ until you are out of the rip

3. How would you see a rip current from the beach?

-Look like _______________________ due to sediments suspended in water and being pulled

out

Rising Sea Levels

1. What would be some reasons for not buying real estate on a barrier island?

-__________________ take brunt of winter storms

-Almost impossible for government to give you aide for storm or flooding damage

-Most island are only a few feet above sea level, _______________________________

12.7 Estuaries

1. Give two reasons why estuaries are valuable ecosystems?

-___________________________________ into the larger ocean (great solvent)

-Development of __________________________, nutrient rich water accumulates hear

2. How are wetlands related to estuaries?

-_________________ and provide nutrients, food, shelter and spawning areas for marine species

Name _______________________________

“Tsunami: The Wave that Shook the World”

1. How many people died from the December 26, 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami?

2. Where the earthquake epicenter located?

3. How many magnitude 8 earthquakes would it take to equal the amount of energy from the

earthquake in this video?

4. Describe the depth of the earthquake in relation to creating a tsunami.

5. Most footage of the tsunami shows smaller waves, were is the footage from the larger waves?

6. What type of topography made the tsunami worse, what topography weakened the intensity of

the tsunami?

7. What country had enough time to evacuate their coastline, what were the results?

8. What occurred to the Earth due to this powerful earthquake?

9. What are the four causes of tsunami?

10. Could a tsunami occur in the Atlantic Ocean, how?

11. Where along the west coast of the U.S. is there a risk of tsunami, why?

Name _____________________________

NOAA Learning Objects

Please listen to the interactive presentations and answer the questions below, the questions are

in the order of the presentation

Waves

1. What is a wave a combination of?___________________________________

2. The highest and lowest part of a wave are called?_______________________________

3. What interferes with wind and water and makes for large waves?_________________

4. Where are the biggest waves on Earth found, how large can they be?_________________

__________________

5. What waves are responsible for many shipwrecks? _____________________________

6. What are the largest waves on Earth? ______________________________

7. What are the four causes of tsunami? _________________________________________

________________________________

Global Impact

1. How much electricity could wave power generate?______________________________

2. What was the death count in the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami? ______________________

Tides

1. Who wrote “time and tide wait for no man”?____________________________________

2. Where else do tides occur other than the oceans? ________________________________

______________________________

3. What is the term used to measure the difference between high and low

tide?____________________________

4. What exerts twice as much tidal force on the oceans than the Sun? __________________

5. When the Sun and the moon are at right angles to each other, what type of tide occurs on

Earth? ____________________________

6. What is the highest point in a tidal zone called? ________________________

7. How do sea stars adapt to the pounding surf? __________________________________

Global Impact

1. How much energy do tides contribute to the global conveyor belt?___________________

2. If a major storm hits land at high tide what occurs?

_______________________________________________________________________

3. What are considered transient windows into the ocean? _______________________

Name ___________________

Are Earthquakes Encouraged by High Tides?

1. What percentage of earthquakes tend to occur during high tidal stress?

2. Why did the University of CA team focus only on shallow thrust-faults?

3. What are the two stresses on thrust faults?

4. What correlation has been found in this article?

Tsunami-Like River Tides are Surfing’s New Frontier

1. How fast and large can a tidal bore attain?

2. How far inland have tidal bores reached, where?

3. What are the two principle factors that affect size and strength of bores?

4. How far can surfers ride a tidal bore on the Severn River, where is it?

5. How is the candiru a risk when surfing tidal bores, how can it be removed?

6. What is the longest record ride that a surfer has attained?

Name _____________________________

Condition Black- Nature

1. When did the National Weather Service announce there was a major storm off the coast

of Japan that could affect Hawaii? __________________________________

2. What is the code name for 20-50 foot waves according to the NWS?

3. Why do most surfers from Hawaii choose to surf? _____________________

4. What is considered the center of the surfing universe? __________________________

5. Who was Eddy Aikau? ___________________________________________________

__________________________________________

6. Why can’t surfers ride waves over 25 feet tall? ________________________________

7. What replaced traditional surfing for giant waves? _____________________________

8. How do surfers/lifeguards train for terrible wipeouts? ____________________________

___________________________________________________

9. What makes Hawaii a location that has such large waves? ________________________

___________________________________________

10. What are the three factors that affect wave size? _______________________________

11. What is the bet type of waves to surf according to Richard G. of U. Hawaii?

______________________________________________________

12. How are waves monitored in the open ocean? _____________________________

13. What information did the buoys radio in about wavelength, wave height in the open

ocean? ____________________________________________________

14. How large would the waves be on the coast? ___________________, how large would

the wave faces be? _______________________

15. What was being filmed when the storm hit? __________________________________

16. What is a wave called when it breaks all at once, making it

unsurfable?________________

17. What would happen if a surfer got into trouble in the ocean during a Condition Black?

_______________________________________________________________

18. What is Log Cabins? ______________________________________________________

__________________________________

19. Why did most surfers not go out to Log Cabins?

___________________________________

20. What was the name of the surfer who rode the biggest wave in history according to the

documentary? ______________________________________

Name ____________________________

Go to http://www.classzone.com/books/earth_science/terc/navigation/investigation.cfm

Scroll down to chapter 16 and click on:

Where Did This Sand Come From?

1. Describe how far the sediments below traveled and their general appearance:

-Volcanic Glass-

-Magnetite Grain

-Feldspar Grain

-Olivine Grain

-Shell Fragment

-Quartz and Coral

-Red Volcanic Fragments

-Black Volcanic Fragments

2. What are forams and where in the world can you find them making up the beach?

3. In “a view of the source” what is the origin of the highlighted sediments?

4. On „sand composition and source area,‟ what is the probable origin of sample #3?

How do Storms Affect the Coastlines?

1. What are two ways that human modify beaches that causes long term damage?

2. Though not very powerful, why did hurricane Denis cause so much damage?

3. In section „Coastal Change Due to Hurricane Dennis‟, what do you think happened to the sediments that

are missing from these locations?

4. In section „Effects of El Niño Storms,‟ click on each photo. Where do you think the sediments that

increased the beach areas came from?

Scroll down to chapter 24 and click on:

How do Tides Work?

1. What can the difference be between water levels at high tide and low tide?

2. What is the phase of the moon on October 17, 2001? On October 24?

3. Predict the effect the moon's phase had on the level of the high tide and the low tide on October 17.

Explain your reasoning.

4. Predict the effect the moon's phase had on the level of the high tide and the low tide on October 24.

Explain your reasoning

5. Describe the changes in tidal levels that occurred on October 17. At what times did the highest and

lowest tides occur?

6. There are roughly two high tides and two low tides every 24 hours. At what time do you think the next

high tide occurred?

7. Did the high tides occur at the same time on Oct. 17 and Oct. 24? Why or why not?

8. Predict the changes in tide levels you would have seen at Cape Porpoise Harbor October 31, 2001.

Go back to the link at the top of the worksheet and click the icon at the very top called “Visualizations”

Scroll down to Chapter 16 and click on the titles below.

Examine an example of wave erosion

1. Why do waves appear bright white when they break?

Observe an animation of wave motion

1. Based on the animation what is moving in the wave, why?

Name ____________________________

Coastal Biomes: Where the Land Meets the Sea 1. What are the major types of coastal biomes?

2. Where does the sand on sandy beaches come from?

3. How does erosion affect a sandy beach from season to season?

4. What is global warming?

5. How might global warming affect coastlines worldwide?

6. What are some of the different zones of a sandy beach?

7. Why don't rooted plants grow in the swash zone? They cannot withstand the battering of waves.

8. How do beach grasses stabilize dunes?

9. Why do conditions vary in different zones of a rocky shore?

10. What is detritus in a salt marsh?

11. How have salt marshes been destroyed or threatened by human activity?

12. How can seawalls on a sandy beach cause long term problems?