Nordstrom Product Group CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Design... · 1-W-Front Lining 38 1-W-Hem Finish-C 39...

Nordstrom Product Group

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL• 1901 – Calibrate – JWN – Nordstrom Signature – Nordstrom Men’s Shop

– The Rail – Treasure & Bond – 14th & Union – Broletto – Public Opinion –Nordstrom Rack – Wallin & Bros

MAY 2019

In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below:

“ 1 – W – pockets – A ” 1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3 for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General) 2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for Sweaters, G for General) 3rd portion is the descriptive file name 4th portion is the end letter for variations

“1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions.

Table of Contents Men’s

1-G-Full Zip Front Sleepwear 1 1-G-Shoulder Pad Set-A 2 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-D 3 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-E 4 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-F 5 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-G 6 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-H 7 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-I 8 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-J 9 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-K 10 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-L 11 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-M 12 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-N 13 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-O 14 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-P 15 1-K-Neck quality point 16 1-K-Neck types 17 1-K-Placket quality point 18 1-K-Placket variation 19 1-K-Pocket-Hanging Pocket Bag- Quality Point 20 1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-A 21 1-K-Shoulder Seam-B 22 1-K-Sleeve Body Construction 23 1-S-Armhoe Shaping Standards 24 1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 25 1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns 26 1-S-Matching Standards 27 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 28 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 29 1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 30 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 31 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 32 1-W-Back Lining 33 1-W-Back Vent Lining Construction-A 34 1-W-Collars on jackets 35

1-W-Collars-B 36 1-W-Cuff and Sleeve Placket-B 37 1-W-Front Lining 38 1-W-Hem Finish-C 39 1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 40 1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 41 1-W-Interlining Standards 42 1-W-Jacket Darts 43 1-W-Lapel and collar on jacket 44 1-W-Lapel basting 45 1-W-Lining Construction Standards 46 1-W-Matching Plaid Standards-B 47 1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns-C 48 1-W-Placket and Shaped Facing-D 49 1-W-Pockets Inside Leather Jacket 50 1-W-Pockets Inside of Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes 51 1-W-Pockets Inside-A 52 1-W-Pockets Inside-B 53 1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-B 54 1-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 55 1-W-Seam Binding Unlined Jackets 56 1-W-Sleeve Lining Join at Hem 57 1-W-Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing 58 1-W-Sleeve Vent Construction on Jackets 59 1-W-Smart Care Taping Standards 60 1-W-Standard Seam Shell & Lining 61 1-W-Taping for Suiting-A 62 1-W-Taping for Suiting-B 63 1-W-Tux Standard 64 1-W-Unlined Jacket Hem 65 1-W-Yoke seam 66 2-K-Seam finish 67 2-W-Alterable CB Standard-A 68 2-W-Body Join Seams 69 2-W-Crotch Piece Standard 70 2-W-Lining Standards-B 71 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-B 72 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-C 73 2-W-Pockets Coin Pocket-B 74 2-W-Pockets Front Pockets-A 75 2-W-Waist Pleat Standard 76

2-W-Waistband-N 77 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-A 78 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-B 79 4-G-Bead and Sequin 80 4-G-Beltloops-B 81 4-G-Beltloops-D 82 4-G-Button Set Quality Points 83 4-G-Button Setting Method-A 84 4-G-Button Setting Method-B 85 4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 86 4-G-Buttonholes Types and Size 87 4-G-Collar Band Button and buttonhole Placement 88 4-G-Fabric handling 89 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-A 90 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-B 91 4-G-Grainline sweater 92 4-G-Hanger loop coats 93 4-G-Hardware Attachment 94 4-G-Pressing-A 95 4-G-Pressing-B 96 4-G-Pressing-C 97 4-G-Pressing-F 98 4-G-Pressing-G 99 4-G-Spare Button Placement-A 100 4-G-Spare Button Placement-B 101 4-G-Spare Button Placement-C 102 4-G-Spare Button Placement-D 103 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-C 104 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-D 105 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-E 106 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-G 107 4-G-Stitch Terminology 108 4-K-Seam Construction Standards-A 109 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 110 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 111 4-W-Standard Seam Types 112

FULL ZIP FRONT STYLES

Quality Point

Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side.

Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck seam, neck, and bottom opening.

Set interlining CF and neck facing.

If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

001

SHOULDER PAD SET STANDARDS

Shoulder Pad Quality

Use approved quality for shoulder pads.

For unlined jackets, shoulder pads must be covered.

Shoulder Pad Setting in Sleeve

Place the pad so that pad extends past the armhole stitch line, follow specific direction from TD.

002

3 Needle bottom cover stitchat edge

Binding - inside no turn

Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:

3 Needle Bottom Cover stitch at Edge

Binding with 3 needle bottom cover stitch at edge

003

Single thread chain stitch

Binding - inside turned under

Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:

Binding With Single Thread Chain Stitch

Binding with single thread chain stitch

004

2 Needle bottom cover stitchstraddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:

2 Needle Bottom Cover stitch straddling seam

Inset with 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

005

Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam


3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

006

Inset Neck Trim

2 needle 4 threadcover stitch straddlingseam


2 Needle 4-Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam

007

Inset Neck Trim



Single Thread chain Stitch

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge

008

Inset Neck Trim


Trim covers back neck join seam


Single Thread chain and Back Trim

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge and trim covering back neck join seam

009

2 Needle Bottom cover stitchstraddling seam

Mitered V Neck

Inset Neck Trim

V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle Bottom Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

010

Inset Neck Trim

Mitered V Neck

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam

V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

011

Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle 4 Thread cover stitchinside needle on join seam

Lapped V Neck

V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle 4 Thread Cover Stitch Inside Needle on Join Seam

2 needle 4 thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam

012

Inset Neck Trim

Lapped V Neck

Lock stitch at edge

V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim

Lock stitch at edge

013

Necklines - Neck Edge FinishRequirement for Neck Extended Minimum12” on the half measure (24” total)

Inside Binding- Clean finish with designated fabric bias set to inside- Refer to VCS for binding width

Turn and under stitch to inner binding and close with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401 or if binding is on fold, turn under to inside and single needle topstich down at designated width

Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Inside Binding#2B#1 #3#2A Or

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

014

Necklines - Neck Edge FinishRequirement for Neck Extended Minimum12” on the half measure (24” total)

Neck Binding- 1/4” binding set with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401

Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Seam Type BSc

Binding

015

Neckline Quality Point

Acceptable shaped neckline Unacceptable shaped neckline

016

NECK TYPES

Rib or Self Trim

▪ Set rib trim to body with 4 thread overlock.

▪tape.

Flat KnitCollar

▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread overlock

▪tape.

Self Fabric Collar w/o band

▪

Self or contrast fabric collar w/ band

▪

HoodieX

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

x

▪

Rib and Self fabric Mock

U

U

UU

▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread overlock with or without top stitch.

▪assigned neck tape quality.

017

FRONT PLACKET

Quality Point▪ Set interlining to top layer of front placket facings.▪ Set interlining to top layer of under placket facings.▪ Set all buttonholes should be set vertically.

018

Placket Variation

Standard Polo Placket

tklP nO ddA w/ Edge Stitch

tklP nO ddAw/ Box Stitch

Hidden Zip Front

E x p o s e dzip Front

019

HANGING POCKET BAG

Quality Point

▪ Made with double layer dye to match self fabric, light weight interlock or tricot material. ▪ Attached to garment with 3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch.

020

3-Thread overlock Seam Allowance

Self fabric binding w/single needle lock stitch

Binding - inside turned under -clean finished at join seam

Bound Neck Edge With Over Lock Seams Binding with single needle lock stitch at edge and over locked seam

021

SHOULDER SEAM

Set clear stabilizing tape to back of shoulder seam.

lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

All Knit tops should have clear elastic, DTM twill tape, or DTM elastic yarn set to the back shoulder seam asstabilizing tape. Unless it is reglan sleeve, in this case, the tape is not required. When the stabilizing tapeis used, it should be inserted with over edge stitch application, so it is hidden.

Clear elastic, DTM Twill tape,or Self fabric tape

022

SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION

1. Join shoulder seam2. Join sleeve cap to armhole3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation4. Turn back sleeve and body hem

Stitch as requests in spec pack construction

Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.

2.

1.

3. 4.

Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge

023

ARMHOLE SHAPING STANDARDS

▪Add cast off at underarm of sleeve and armhole for all sweaters whenever it is posible. ▪Set in sleeve - 1/2” cast off. ▪Raglan sleeve - 1” cast off. ▪

Set in sleeve without cast off @ under arm

1/2” cast off @ underarm. Set in sleeve

1” cast off @ underarm - Raglan sleeve

Note:

This eliminates excess pulling or bunching up at the underarm when wearing.

024

HANGING POCKET BAG STANDARDS

Quality Point

▪ Pocket opening can be made with various stitches and will be specified in VCS

▪ Make with jersey stitch continuous piece.▪ Close the both sides of pocket bag by linking.

025

MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNSRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes and patterns unless otherwise statedin the specification package.

Matching Standards

Collar Paired and balancedCollar band Paired and balancedCuffs Paired and balancedBack Yoke Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered vertically or

horizontallyFronts Left and right fronts to be paired and horizontally matched

Left and right fronts to be vertically paired from centerPockets Matched horizontally and vertically to the frontBack Prominent stripe/plaid to be centeredSleeves Paired and balanced

sleeve notchFront Plackets Prominent stripe/plaid must be centeredSide seams Matched horizontally

For uneven fabric plaid, stripe or pattern repeats, need to follow special instructions on the VCS.

When selecting matching lines, avoid bright or narrow contrast lines at dart points.

Note:

026

MATCHING STANDARDS

CablesPlace cables balanced between left and right side of garment, unless otherwise specifiedin style specification package. Note: Follow specification package for style specific directions.

Plaids, Stripes, and PatternsRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes, and patterns unless otherwise stated in the specification package.

TerminologyFully Balanced = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body(Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and /or vertically in each garment.One way match = horizontalTwo way match = horizontal and vertical

Matching Tolerances

0” for presentation areas: center front

027

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

V Neck

▪▪

Double layer neck trim ▪ Also, it needs to be knotted at beginning

and the end of each linking. These knots will later be secured by linking the neck trim to body.▪

Single layer neck trim▪

Crew Neck

▪ See VCS for construction details

028

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Half Zip Mock

▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side panels must be balanced at neck seam and neck opening.▪ Set 5/8” wide full needle rib tape inside of garment. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Full Zip Front

▪ Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side. ▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck and bottom opening.▪ Set 1” wide 5/8” wide full needle rib tape facing. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Button Front

▪ CF Placket can be made with continuous tape with full needle, rib single layer, or jersey double layer.

▪ Set buttons at wearer’s right hand side and buttonholes at wearer’s left hand side. ▪ Utilize thread shank for the buttons to prevent curves at edge of CF placket after button. ▪ If buttons are used, buttons will mainly be set in the vertical direction. Exceptions will

be defined in VCS.▪ Set neckband button and buttonhole so that when buttoned all buttons align

029

SLEEVE AND BOTTOM OPENING STANDARDS

Variations

▪ 1x1, 2x2, 2x3, or 3x3 Single start rib or double layer layer rib.▪ Jersey tubular or Full needle.▪ Links and links.

Quality Point

▪ Linked seams must be secured to prevent unravel.

030

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

All Sweaters should have clear elastic set to the back shoulder seam, unless the shoulder seam is fully fashioned and set to the back.

Fully Fashioned shoulder seam to back

Clear elastic

031

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

Tubular Neck Trims - Fine Gauge

Cast off shoulder seam and link together, stabilize with DTM Nylon Taping. Tubular Neck Trims: catch endof DTM Nylon Taping insidetubular when linking neck trim(�ne and chunky gauges)

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular Neck Trims - Fine and Chunky Gauge

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular neck trims:fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at endand tack down along necktrim seam. (�ne andchunky gauges)

032

Back Lining for 3/8 lined jackets

033

BACK VENT LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

The lining is seamed along the vent edge on the outside extension. The seam allowance is understitched along the edge of the vent, but not across the top of the vent.

We do not accept mitered corners on vents.

Vent facings should be 1 1/2” + 1/2” seam allowance.

SN/L, 5/16” margin

8 1/2

2”

1 1/2”

24L button

034

SETTING COLLAR

Collar Setting

Under Stitch

Under Pressing

1” 1”

We expect that the collar be “barrel” set to the body. The top collar is set to the front facing and back lining and the under collar is set to the body. The neckline seams are “busted” (pressed open) and the seam allowances are basted together. Stop the collar basting 1” from the collar notch.

After forming the collar and lapel, we expect that the seams along the edges will be under stitched to keep the under collar and lapel from rolling out. The under stitch can be replaced by an under press operation depending on fabric. When edges are top stitched, no under stitch is required.

We expect that collars and lapels be under pressed before continuing to next operation. Please avoid over pressing. Do not create seam impressions and “shine” on the collar and lapel edges.

035

COLLAR STANDARDS

Quality Points

▪▪▪

Collar and collar band operations must be single needle lockstitch, ISO# 301.Collar band must be squared to front edge to avoid gapping between neck seam and the 1st body button. Collar and collar band must be clean finished.

The collar points need to be turned carefully. No visible holes on the corner points.Corner points are well turned and shaped to form a sharp corner or smooth curve.Collar and collar bands must be even and symmetrical.

Construction

Collar Band Collar Stay Pocket

1/16” SN/L Edgestitch

1/16” SN/L Edgestitch3/16” SN/L Stay Stitch

x

Stay Pocke

tAngle pocket according tocollar stay length.

Fold

▪▪

▪

▪

Collar Stay Pocket Requirements

▪▪

Collar stay pocket needs to be angled according to collar stay length.Edge of collar stay pocket is folded for clean finish. Collar stay pocket is formed with single needle lockstitch type, ISO #301.

▪

036

CUFF AND SLEEVE PLACKET STANDARDS

Quality Points

▪ Cuff edge to sleeve placket edge must be even. ▪ On square cuff, the corners need to be turned carefully, so there are no holes in the

corners, and the points are well turned. ▪ Cuffs must be even and symmetrical.

Terminology

BC = Barrel CuffFC = French CuffMC = Mitered CuffAdj = Adjustable Cuff

037

Front Lining

Lining patterns should have extra ease build in over the bust. Ease should be minimal and not create pleats in lining.

038

BOTTOM HEM STANDARDS

▪▪ Stitch through hem must have back tack of 3 Stitches, tolerance +/-1.

Quality points

▪ No tuck, pleats or roping.

Hem must be clean finished with double turn folder or guide & Single Needle Lockstitch Type #301.

039

INTERLINING ON COLLAR AND BAND

COLLAR

Apply interlining to outer collar in direction of grain.Apply bias interlining to under collar.Once the band and collar have been joined, apply stabilizer to the collar band at the neck seam.

Block fusing is also acceptable.

Outer Collar and Band

Under Collar and Band

InterliningAngle of LineRepresentsGrainlineof Interlining

Shell

040

Body Pieces: Layer 1

Interlining: Fully Lined Jackets: Fusing

The front panel should be fully interlined.The Princess, side panels and back are interlined for 2” at the armhole and hem. Upper Back can be stabilized in either of the 2 options:A. Fused PanelB. Lapped Percaline

Exceptions to be confirmed by TD▪Loosely woven fabrics▪Fabric with long floats▪Light weight▪Light color

Front Back

2”

SidePan

2”

Front

2”

2”

OVERLAP PERCALINEAT CENTER BACKTO ADD “GIVE”

OPTION 2 METHODPERCALINE AT BACK

1. Full front2. Under arm3. Bottom hem4. Upper back (2 options) A. Fused panel B. Non fused lapped Percaline

FUSIBLEINTERLINING

041

INTERLINING STANDARDSPlease follow Bill of Materials needed for interlining Quality.

Woven Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Bond strength▪Show through▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.▪Verify heat setting on fusing machine at least twice a day.

Woven Non - Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.

042

Dart Construction

The dart stitch should follow the edge of the dart fold for 1” from the end. See Diagram 1a. Diagram 1b is NOT acceptable.

On thicker fabrics, stitch a piece of self fabric into the dart seam to help balance the thickness. See Diagram 2.

Knot off the ends by hand or leave 3/4” of thread chained off from machine. See Diagram 4.

Do not clip the dart open to the very tip. This weakens the seam and can create a hole. See Diagram 3.

DIAGRAMS:1a. 1b.

DIAGRAM:2

DIAGRAM:3

1” 1”

1”1”

KNOTTED END CHAINED END

DIAGRAM: 4ACCEPTABLE METHODS FOR

SEWING OFF DART ENDS

043

Under collar to beshorter and narrower than the top collar

Front

Facing to be longer and wider than body

at top of lapel

Facing to be shorter and narrower than body at bottom edge

LAPEL - Forming Lapel and Collar Lapel

In order for the front facing to roll and lay correctly, make the following adjustments to the pattern

1. Make the lapel point longer and wider by 1/8” - 1/4” 2. Shorten facing by 1/8” - 3/16” at hemline 3. Make 1/16” - 1/8” narrower beginning at hemline. Blending to 0” at breakpoint

Collar

The collar points should roll toward the body. Under collar is smaller then upper collar to have small roll. Ease may need to be adjusted depending on fabric thickness and jacket style. *Steam set the lapel and use slight pressure with hand iron to set the lapel breakpoint.

044

BASTING PEAK LAPEL STANDARDS

3/8”

On a peak lapel, the lapel and collar must be basted so that they do not separate when wearing.Make an invisible basting stitch from the join of lapel and collar to 3/8” from edge to collar.

Fold over collar edge

The front collar edge to fold over onto the undercollar to give a clean appearance.

045

LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS1. All lining construction seams should be the same width as the shell. Lining seams do not have to be

pressed open.2. Form a pleat in the center back of the jacket lining 1” deep.

NON stretch lining should be 1 size larger than shell in girth.

Chainstitch is acceptable for lining construction only.

4”PLEAT OPENS4” BELOWNECK LINESEAM OR 2”BELOW FACINGSEAM

WAISTLINE

Lining

Shell

1/2” Seam Allowance1/2” Seam Allowance

1/2”

1 1/2“ Total Hem depth 1/2” Shell showing

2”

FACING

HEM FINISH STANDARDS

Lined Jackets without Topstitching

Form a 1/2“ pleat at the bottom of the jacket lining. The lining should join to the front facing to form a continuous pleat that grows from nothing to 1/2“ at the facing join.

Lined Jackets with Topstitching: As diagramed below.

Unlined Jackets

Unlined jackets need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine, depending on fabric) under binding. Hand tack at facing edge at allowance.

046

Matching StandardsPlacement Sketch JWN Signature Dress & Sport Shirts Young Mens

Top Collar CBv

Paired (vertically & horizontally)



Under Collar CBv

Match to top collar (vertically & horizontally)

Paired (horizontally)

Fronts & CF Placket

Balanced & Match (vertically & horizontally)

Balanced & Match (vertically & horizontally)

Match (vertically & horizontally)

Fronts - Bias Paired (Chevron) Paired (Chevron)

Pockets Match (vertically & horizontally)



Back

CBv

Balanced (vertically) Balanced (vertically)

Back Yoke CBv Match at CB to top

collar, under collar, outer & inner collar band (vertically)

Match to CB collar (vertically)

Split Back Yoke (Center Back Seam)

CBv Paired - Chevron

(Inverted V Chevron)

Paired - Chevron

(Inverted V Chevron)

Paired - Chevron

Sleeves BackBack Front Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)

Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)


Sleeve Top Placket

Match to Sleeve (vertically & horizontally)


Cuffs - Outer Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)



Cuffs - Inside INNER CUFF

OUTER CUFF

Match to outer cuff (vertically & horizontally)

Paired (horizontally)

047

MATCHING STANDARDS FOR PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNS

Terminology

Fully Balanced Plaid = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.

Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.

Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.

Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)

Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body (Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).

Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.

Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.

Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and/or vertically in each garment.

One way match = horizontal

Two way match = horizontal and vertical

Continuous Front or Back = Prominent stripe of the plaid is the top center front or center back.▪ Use same top center line for center front placket and for center back (except Rack and Young Men’s)▪ Use same top center line for center of collar (horizontal stripe for Transcript and Young Men’s).

Matching Tolerances

Woven Shirts0” for presentation areas: center front, pocket and split yoke

1/16” for non-presentation areas: yoke to top collar and collar band

Smart Care Woven Shirts1/16” for presentation areas: CF, pocket and split yoke

1/8” for non-presentation areas: Back yoke to top collar and collar band

048

PLACKET STANDARDS

Front edge must be clean finished with SN/L Type #301.Placket and/or facing edge must be clean finished.

Top placket:double turn to face with topstitching

Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L


Top Placket:Set w/ 2N/Chain double sided folder

Top Placket:Double Turn,No Topstitching


French Placket Reversed French Placket Set-on Placket

049

INSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET

5 1/2”

INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKET

5 1/2”

2”

Inside Pockets - Leather Jacket

050

1/4” 1/4”

1/4”

1/8”

STEPPED TRIMMING IS IDEAL

INSIDE OF POCKET FLAPS AND EPAULETTES

Insides of pockets should be sewn with 1/4” seams trimmed to 1/8” at corners.

On straight seams, stepped trimming is ideal.

Pocket flaps are self lined, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

051

INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKETINSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET

RIGHTARMHOLE

BEASOM(BREAST POCKET)AND TICKET POCKETARE OF LINING FABRICAND SHOULD BE ON THE SAMELEVEL.

POCKETIS OF LINING FABRIC

LEFTARMHOLE

LABEL

LABEL

= Self fabric / Facing = Lining Fabric

Inside Pockets

052

INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKETINSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET

ARMHOLEARMHOLE

LINING LINING

LINING

14”

Self fabric

8”

10”

Self fabric

Self fabric

Inside Pockets

053

PATCH POCKETS

Invisible stitch patch pockets should be reinforced at the top corners only if requested.

054

INVISIBLE STITCH STANDARD

(STITCH IN THE DITCH)

1/2”

1/2”

LEAVE 1/2” FREE ATBOTH ENDS

BASTING STITCH

TOP STITCH ONLYWHEN SPECIFIED

Angle Welt Pockets

NIARG

WELT POCKETS

Welt pockets should be loosely basted closed with a basting stitch, leave 1/2” open at each end.

Single Welt pockets are to be tacked on both ends with an “invisible stitch” unless otherwise specified.

055

SEAM BINDING IN UNLINED JACKET STANDARDS

For unlined jackets, all body construction seams and hems must be bound with a double-fold binding.

Bust open all seams except for ones that will be topstitched.

Armholes to be bound with both seam allowance sewn together.

In front lined jackets, the side seam needs to be pressed open. Front seam allowance pressed towards front. Back and sleeve seams to be bound as shown below.

Binding fabric for seam binding will be called out in the BOM.

Double—fold binding

Single Fold Binding: Do Not Use

056

SLEEVE LINING JOIN AT HEM

Sleeve Linings

Form a 1/2” pleat at the bottom of the sleeve lining.

Unlined Jackets

Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on fabric) under the binding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.

SEAM JOIN,SHELL TOLINING

PLEAT DEPTH

FROM FOLDOF LINING TO HEM LINEOF SHELL

TotalHem1 1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

INSIDE SLEEVE HEM DETAIL

INSIDEVIEW

SHELL

INSIDEVIEW

SHELL

LINING LINING

BACK SLEEVE

057

Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and FusingIf an Automated sleeve setting machine is not available, cap must be preshirred with 1-2 rows of single needle basting or chain stitching. Do not use automated shirring. Shirring must be evenly distributed around the sleeve cap, but should not extend below the arm hole notches.

Sleeve must be set using a lock stitch.

Armhole seam allowance must be clipped at 2” from shoulder point front and back after sewing. Press open the seam allowance at the top of the sleeve cap.

Sleeves need to look the same from left to right.

The sleeve head should be a single piece, long enough to fit between the sleeve cap notches. The sleeve head should sit slightly to the back of the sleeve. Based on fabrication it is acceptable to recommend playful headers or self fabric folded bias as the sleeve head.

FOLD LINE

INTERLINING

SLEEVE HEADER

058

Sleeve Vent ConstructionConstruction should be alterable and not mitered.

For light weight fabrics, roll the seam allowance towards the vent, starting 3” above the vent.

For heavy weight fabrics, clip the seam allowance and press the seam open all theway to the top of the vent.

INSIDE VIEW - VENT DOWN

HEAVY WEIGHT FABRICSLIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS

INSIDE VIEW - VENTFOLDED UP TO SHOWCONSTRUCTION

059

SMART CARE TAPING STANDARDS

Taped seams are indicated with grey shading in the below images. Tape must be applied in sewing and be invisible to the customer.

Full Taping

CF UNDERPLACKET

UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAMBACKFRONT

Partial Taping

UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAMBACKFRONT

060

STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL AND LINING

Body Construction Seams

All body construction seams, small parts and darts and lining should be sewn on single needle lock stitch machines. Chain stitch is not acceptable. Body construction seams are normally pressed open except when top stitched. We do not accept clipping of seam allowance.

Seams that are covered by the lining can remain raw unless the fabric is a loose weave and need to be over locked to keep from fraying. If the bottom of the lining is left open for any reason, the seam allowances of the body have to be over locked.

STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL ONLY

Body Construction Seams Imperial Measure

Min Max

Body Construction* 3/8” 1/2”

Princess Seam 3/8 3/8”

Collar Set 1/4” 3/8”

Armhole 1/4” 3/8”

Small Parts** 1/4” 1/4”

Shoulder 3/8” 1/2”

Neckline 1/4” 3/8”

Foldback on Hems 1 5/8” 1 3/4”

Note: *Shell and lining. In cases where a style has a wider topstitching, the seam allowance is 1/8” wider than the topstitching.

Note: **Clip corners, but trim curve to 1/8”, step trim straight seams.

061

BODY PIECES: LAYER 2

Lapel and Shoulder Taping

We have found that fusible tapes are more stable and easier to apply than traditional sew in tapes. We prefer non-woven as they add less bulk at the seams when pressed and are more stable. We will accept other methods of taping if the result is neither stretched nor bunched.

Front

The lapel and center front edge should be taped, ending at breakpoint. If the CF hem edge is curved, add taping to stabilize.

Bridle Tape

Bridle tape is not necessary for all jackets. If it is used, fusible tape is recommended. Set bridle tape with tension to hold break line to body.

Shoulder

The tape should be applied to the back shoulder before closing the shoulder seam. The ease should be pressed away after seaming.

FUSIBLE INTERLINING

CHEST PIECE

FUSIBLE TAPING

Front Back

2”

SidePan

062

Front2”

2”

Chest Piece And Taping1. Chest piece: non fusible,

set over fused panel2. Roll Line: fusible tape3. Lapel edge: fusible tape4. Front edge hem when curved: Fusible taping5. Armhole: fusible tape

BODY PIECES: LAYER 2

Armhole Taping

Apply armhole taping in single continous piece with the body seams joined and shoulder seams open (see note below).

FRONT

BACK

Note: The only exception is for Hong Kong and China OPA product. Taping

063

TUX STANDARDSTux - Bib Tux - 4 Button String

Bib Variation includes plain and pin tuck. 4 BUTTON STRING

3-1/2”

3-1/2”

Tux - PleatedPleat Depth = 1/2”

Note: 4 button string used for Bib, All-Over and Pleated Tuxes.

064

Unlined Jackets

Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on fabric) with thebinding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.

065

Woven Yokes

▪

▪ Close with SN/Lock and topstitch with SN/Lock if required.▪ Prestitch pleat before setting yoke.

Inner and outer yoke clean finish body panel.

066

KNIT BOTTOM

Front Rise

Inside View

▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along

seam

Back Rise

Inside View

▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along

seam

067

ALTERABLE CENTER BACK STANDARDS▪ The seam allowance for alterable waistbands are:

1” at CB seam for Tailored Clothing 3/4” for Sportswear Smartcare1 1/2” for non-Smartcare

▪ Stitch CB seam after waistband is set. This must be a continuous seam from top of waistband seam.

▪ Press center back seam open before stitching down waistband.

3/4“

CB WAISTBAND INSIDE SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAM ALLOWANCE BLEND TO 1/2“ AT RISE CURVE

CE

NTE

R B

AC

K S

EA

M

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

OVERLOCK

BIAS BINDING

CROTCH SEAM IS STITCHED AFTER WAISTBAND SET.CONTINUOUSTHRU CROTCH POINT.

OPERATION FROM TOP OF WAISTBAND

PRESS CB SEAM OPENBEFORE STITCHING DOWNWAISTBAND

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

Z

ZZ

ZZ

ZZ

Z WAIST SEAM

WAISTBAND

CENTER BACKSEAM

FOLD DOWN CORNERS

OUTER SHELL WBROLLOVER 1/16”TOWARD INSIDE

TAPED W/ LINING

OVERLOCK 1/8”

1/2” INSIDE WAISTBANDSEAM ALLOWANCE

PRESS OPEN

INSIDE

SPLIT CENTER BACK WAISTBANDAND BACK RISE SEAM ALLOWANCE

068

Body Join Seams

Location John W. Nordstrom , Nordstrom & 1901 Transcript

Front Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted

edge and a bartack at crotch / inseam join.

5 Thread Safety Join seam

Back Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted

edge.


Inseam Clean set, Single Needle Lock Stitch Busted

edge.


Outseam Clean set, Single Needle Chain Stitch Busted

edge. Reinforce seam at pocket opening with backtack.


Hemblind hem.

Bottom.

Needle top stitch

069

CROTCH PIECE STANDARDSTailored Clothing Form a single layer pocketing patch finished with self binding.Placed over the crotch point. Tack on each side to inseam or rise seam allowance.

6” Length x 4 3/4” width Curved Center Seam to follow the shape of the crotch

Front

Back Front

Back

Flat ShapeCurved Center Seam to follow the shape of the crotch

SportswearSet a strip of bias cut pocketing over the seam allowance from bottom of fly facing to 1 1/2” from crotch point.The strip should be a separate piece from fly facing and be clean finished.

070

LINING STANDARDS

Tailored Clothing ▪ Front panel only lined to 2” below the knee notch on pattern for all fabrications except light colored fabrics, ▪ See Production Spec Pack for details on light colored fabric.▪ Set lining with body fabric at side seams and inseam.▪ Cut lining so that bottom edge is on selvage edge.

Sportswear▪ Only Wool, Wool blend, Linen, and Linen blend

dress Pant need to be lined to knee.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XXXXXXXX X

XXX

XXXX

X

XXX

XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XX

X X XXXXX

XXX X

071

Back Pockets

Terminology

Single Welt Pocket Double Welt PocketSingle welt pocket with opening at top. Double welt pocket with even welt widths.

On occasion, double layers of single welt is callout with pocket opening at bottom.

On occasion, a welt with 1/3 and 2/3 width is called out.

072

Back Pocket Setting into Waistband

Tailored Clothing Sportswear▪

▪

▪

▪

UPPER WAIST CURTAIN

LOWER WAIST CURTAIN

INSIDE LINING

POCKETING

A light weight interlining should be used around welt pocket inside of garment for

Pocket bag bottom should be a folded edge to minimize bulge.

Sometimes pocket bag require binding. Follow spec packs for style specific directions.

Pocket facing needs to be fold in with single top stitch clean finish.

073

Inside of left front pocket bag Inside waistbandINSIDE OF RIGHT FRONT(WEARING)

POCKET BAG

FOLD

3“

2 1/2“

3 1/4“

1/2” HEM1 1/4“

INSIDE COINPOCKET

Set coin pocket on side of panel closer to body.

INSIDEWEARER’S RIGHT

BODY

Clean Finish hem3/8” margin

Tack bottom of coin pocket to regular pocket bag.

3 1/4”

3 1/

2”

Coin Pockets

Note: This does not apply to tailored clothing.

074

Outside View

Inside ViewOnseam

Pocket

Angle

Pocket

3”

CF

CF

INSIDEWEARER’S LEFT

INSIDEWEARER’S RIGHT

BUSTEDSIDE SEAMS

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XXXX

XXXXXXXXX

XXX

XXXX

X

XX X

XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XX

XXXXXXX

XXXX

▪

▪

▪

POCKET STANDARDS

Front Pockets

Quality PointsA reverse stitch or back tack needs to be applied to inside of garment at side seam for re-inforcement at top and botton of pocket opening. The stitch needs to be 1” long. Bartacks are required to be placed at top and bottom of pocket opening for re-inforcement.Body fabric facing is required at both side of pocket opening to prevent the pocket bag from exposed at face side of garment.

075

Box Pleat Double Pleat

PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN FROM THE W/B ON INSIDEOF GARMENT.

1-1/2“ PLEATDEPTH

5/8“ PLEATDEPTH

Single Pleat

PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN FROM THE W/B ON INSIDEOF GARMENT.

1“ PLEATDEPTH

FRONT PLEAT STANDARDSTerminologyMen’s tailored clothing have either one, two or no pleats at front (flat front). Both pleats open toward the side seam.In addition to two pleats opening toward the side seam, Men’s Sportswear also has a varia-tion in which the pleats are box pleats.

076

WAISTBAND STANDARDS- All waistbands for Men’s brands product should be set with single needle lock stitch machinery. - For dresswear, we do not accept waistbands set in one operation on folder equipment. - Denim jeans with straight waistband may be set with a folder machine. - Waistbands can be cut and fused in blocks, then trimmed and notched. - Young Men’s waistbands are style specific. See production spec packs for details.

Waistband Finish Terminology

Dressmake Waistband Two-piece Waistband

▪ Waistbands in Men’s Tailored Pants are made with

polyester lining piping, and heavy interlining.▪ Tack waistband lower curtain down at

approximately 12 points in inconspicuous areas, such as pocketing or seams.

▪ A two-piece waistband is used for most sportswear.

Lower Curtain

UpperCurtain

Waistband

Piping

Interlining Waistband

InsideWaistbandSelf fabricBind

ing

One-piece Waistband

▪ A one-piece waistband is used in some sportswear.

Waistband

Binding

077

Front Closure TerminologyTailored Clothing

The tab closures can be pointed or squared depending on the styling of the garment.

Sportswear

The tab closures can be pointed or rounded depending on the styling of the garment for Type One.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XXXX

XXXXXXX X X

X XX

X X X X

X X X X

XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

X X

XXX

X X X X

X

X X X

XXXXXXXXX

XXXXXXXXX

XXXXXXXXXX

XXXXXXXXX

XXXXXXXX

XXXX

XXXXXXX

X X X XXX X X X X X X X

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX X XXXX X X X XX X X

U

Bullnose Fly Closure

3-1/4”

2 1/4”

1/2”2 1/2”

Bullnose Fly Closure Tab Closure Type Two

Insd

ie V

iew

Out

side

Vie

w

078

Straight Closure with One Buttons Straight Closure with Two ButtonsIn

sdie

Vie

wO

utsi

de V

iew

Tab Closure Type One Tab Closure Type Two

Insd

ie V

iew

Out

side

Vie

w

Cut on bias

Cut on bias Cut on bias

Cut on bias

Cut on bias

Cut on bias

Cut on bias

3”

3”

2”

2”

079

Bead and Sequin Sewing Specifications- Tie off on every sixth bead or sequin.

080

BELTLOOP STANDARDS

Beltloop Placement6 Beltloops 8 Beltloops▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 30-33 ▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 28-36

▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 34-46▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 38-48

# 1 # 2 # 3

CE

NTE

R F

RO

NT 2” from

centerback

# 1 # 2 # 3 # 4

CE

NTE

R F

RO

NT

2” from centerback

081

BELTLOOP STANDARDS

Beltloop FormationTailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim▪ Fold raw edges to inside of loop ▪ Finish with blind stitch

▪ Form with beltloop folder▪ 2N cover bottom

Beltloop SettingTailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim▪ Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from

waistband seam▪Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from waistband seam

082

▪▪▪

2 Hole - Parallel Stitch 3 Hole - Triangle 4 Hole - Parallel 4 Hole - X-Stitch

Quality Points

Buttons set on wearers right sideButtons set center line unless otherwise specified on spec pack Mark button position after making button holes

Button Setting

Terminology

▪

▪

▪

Machine Set Button

Hand Set Button

NPG requires Lockstitch button sew Type #304.Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.

Must be set with double strand thread.▪ Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.

083

▪

▪▪

▪▪

▪

▪

▪

▪

▪▪

BUTTON SET

Button

Machine Set Button

NPG requires Lock Stitch button sew Type #304

Button Sew Thread (POV)Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specified on VCS4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per hole)

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Hand Set Button

Must be set with double strand thread Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Button Sew ThreadUse Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specificed 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Knotting must be secured and hidden

2 Hole

4 Hole

084

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE STANDARDS

Button Setting Method

We prefer buttons to be set with lock stitch machines and finely finished on underside. If only chain stitch machines are available, please be sure the cycle is correct so that the last stroke locks the chain on the inside of the garment.We do not set buttons with an “X” stitch. We make two horizontal stitches on a lock-stitch machine.

Shanks (Wrapping)

The length of the thread shank should be determined by the thickness of the fabric. The button should hold the garment closed without distort-ing the buttonhole.Buttons with shanks should not be wrapped.

Thread

Match the thread color to the button unless otherwise stated in the spec pack. Use Perma Cored or equivalent Tex 40 button sewing thread for buttons. Do not use thread designed for single needle or over lock machines.Note: For inside buttons and hook & bar, fuse fabric to add strength ifneeded.

085

▪

▪▪

▪

▪

▪

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Straight

Keyhole

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION

Buttonhole Type

Must be Lock Stitch Type #304

Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons

Buttonhole Thread

Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified

086

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

VV

VVV

V

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

VV

VVV

V VV

VVV

V1/16” apart

BUTTONHOLES

The buttonhole should be clean. Loose or fraying threads are not acceptable. Buttonhole should not stretch out the fabric or cause damage to the weave.

Loosely woven fabrics, refer to Number 3.

Leather and suede garments must have bound buttonhole, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

1. Keyhole Buttonholes

2. Bound Buttonhole

3. For Loosely Woven Fabric - edge stitch is added to prevent fraying

Note: Buttonholes on sleeve should be non-functional, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

087

CFCF

Collar Band Button and Buttonhole Placement

Button is placed 1/8” off center to maintain collar band

length and to keep placket aligned top to bottom. Button hole is placed 1/8”

off center front line.

088

FABRIC HANDLING

Fabric InspectionNPG requires The 4-Point System and Fabric Sampling Plan.Refer to the Fabric Inspection Guidelines link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Flaws/DefectsProduction Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.▪ Please contact NPG Production Developer ▪ Production Planner may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision

Minimum of 1 yard full widthSpreading and CuttingNPG does not accept Drill Holes.Refer to the Process Inspection link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Shading

Fabric must be shade sorted.All cut parts must be identified with an appropriate numbering system.▪ If adhesive stickers, paper tags or chalk is used for numbering cut parts, they must be

removed before pressing If there are Shading issues:▪ Please contact NPG Product Developer ▪ Product developer may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision

Minimum of 1/4 yard full width

Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.Note: Follow Visual Construction Sheet (VCS) for style specific directions

Cut DirectionNapped fabrics: 1 way, nap upNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

Cut Direction - KidsNapped fabrics: Nap down unless otherwise speci�ed in teck packNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

089

GRAIN LINE STANDARDS

Dress Shirt Grainlines

Used for patterns or solid fabrications.

Sport Shirt Grainlines

Used for shirts without split back yoke or with Twill fabrications with split back yoke.

These standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.

090

GRAIN LINE STANDARDSThese standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.

Piece StandardCollar/Under Collar Cross grainCollar band Cross grainCuffs Cross grainBack Yoke Cross grainSplit Back Yoke Shoulder seam is grainline forming ChevronBody Straight grainPockets Straight grainSleeves Straight grainFront Plackets Straight grainSleeve Placket Straight grain or bias

091

KNIT DIRECTION

For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and inside panels are cut on straight of grain.These standards should be followed for all knit tops, unless otherwise stated on the VCS for style specific directions.

092

HANGER LOOP SETTING STANDARDS

Coats

2”

Closed 1.5-2”from neckseam line

Center Back pleat in lined products only 1” deep

CB

Hanger loops are required in all coats. The loop should be made from lining. It can be 3/16 -1/4” wide. Set hanger loop over CB seam so that when the loop is laying flat, it is 2” in length.

093

HARDWARE ATTACHMENT

For Snaps( 4-Part and Prong), Rivets, and Jeans Buttons

▪▪▪▪▪

▪

▪

▪▪

C

094

PRESSING

▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation andpresses

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:

▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable


095

PRESSING - MEN’S WOVEN TOPS

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting.▪ Finish product pressing completed to meet following quality points.

▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling.▫ Heat settings on presses must be checked twice a day.▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable.▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable.▫ Over pressing not acceptable.▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable.

Pressing variations will be called out in specification packages as needed.

Back Pleats

The back yoke pleats should be pressed to the armhole drop.

Wrinkle-Free Shirts

Ensure that the center crease on the sleeve, the sleeve pleats and the back yoke pleats are well pressed.

PRESSING - ALL MEN’S EXCEPT WOVEN TOPS

▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation and presses

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:

▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable


096

PRESSING - DARTS

We expect that all body seams, darts and small parts be under pressed. Avoid over pressing.A straight seam can be pressed on a flat board. If it has a curve, it should be pressed on a curved board so that the silhouette is maintained. Darts should be pressed with the end over the curve of a board to prevent a bubble. Press a dart from the widest part (usually the waist) towards the end

097

Leg Crease

▪▪ Crease runs from the inner fold of 1st pleat to the bottom of the pant for double pleat pants.

098

PRESSING STANDARDS

▪▪▪▪▪

▪

099

InsideWearer’s right

EXTRA BUTTON PLACEMENT

Extra Button:Placed at pocket bag seam.

1/2”

1/4” BUTTONSPACINGEXTRA TROUSER

BUTTON

SPARE BUTTON PLACEMENT STANDARDS

Sportswear / Rail

Clothing

▪▪

Place spare button inside a 5cm (W) X 7cm (H) poly bag. Insert bag inside wearer’s left interior chest pocket.

John W. Nordstrom Signature, John W. Nordstrom & Calibrate

100

Spare Button Placement

▪▪▪

▪▪▪▪

OUTSIDERIGHT FRONT PLACKET

HEM

18L14L

CA

RE

LAB

EL

1/2”

1/4”

18L

14L

16L1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

CA

RE

LAB

EL


HEM

JWN Signature Dress JWN Dress Shirts1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for medium button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.

1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.

101


▪▪▪

▪▪▪

1/2”

3/4

16L

14L

CA

RE

LAB

EL


HEM

OUTSIDE RIGHT FRONT PLACKET

HEM

3/4”

1”

Calibrate, 1901, Rack and 14th & Union Dress Shirts

Nordstrom Dress Shirts



102

▪▪▪▪

▪▪▪

18L

14L

16L1/2”

1/2”

1/2”


HEMINSIDE LEFT SIDE SEAM

4” ABOVE HEM

CARE LABEL

ID LABEL

BLANK LABEL


Broletto Dress Shirts Sport Shirts, Rail, and Rack1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for larger button ligne.

1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to blank white label.

1 extra button for medium button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.

103

KNIT PRODUCT

THREADS AND STITCHES PER INCH REQUIREMENTS

▪ Preferred suppliers are A & E and Coats▪ For seam join use Texturized Polyester▪ For top stitching use Spun Polyester

Stitch Per Inch Guideline Location SPIInternalStitching

12 +/- 1

Topstitch 12 +/- 1Button Sew 18 (“X” B/Tk) lockstitchButton hole 24 +/- 1 (B/Tk)

Note:

decorative stitching.

Young Men’s stitch per inch is style specific. See production spec packs for details.

104

STITCHING STANDARDS

Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard

Dress Shirts

John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Broletto

Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate, 1901, Rack & 14th & Union

Regular Non-Iron RegularSmartcare & Non-

IronSPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1

Sport ShirtsRegular Smartcare

Heavy Gauge Thread

SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1

Young Mens

Shirts RegularHeavy Gauge

Thread

SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1

105

STITCHING STANDARDS


Button sew includes the lock of the button sew as the last cycle (9th stitch).

Woven SleepwearStitch Requirement PJ Sets and Sleep Pants

Regular FlannelStitching 16±1 14±1Topstitch 16±1 14±1Bartack 42 ± 1 42 ± 1Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles

Knit SleepwearStitch Requirement Top and Bottom

Stitching 12±1Topstitch 12±1Bartack 40±1Button Sew 9 cycles

Robes

Stitch Requirement

Shawl-Collar Robe

Kimono Robe

Maxi Hooded RobeRegular Terry

Stitching 16±1 12±1Topstitch 16±1 12±1Bartack 42±1 40±1

UnderwearStitch Requirement Knit Top and Bottom Woven Boxer

Stitching 12 ±1 12-14Topstitch 12 ±1 12-14Bartack 40 ± 1 42±1Button Sew N/A 9 cycles

Note:

stitching.

106

STITCHING STANDARDS


Woven BottomLabel

JWNJohn W. Nordstrom & Nordstrom

Transcript Young Men’s

InternalStitching

20 ±1 12±1 8 ±1 16 ±1

Topstitch 20 ±1 12 ±1 8 ±1 16 ±1Decorative N/A N/A 9 ±1 N/ABartack 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cyclesButton hole 18±1 24±1 24±1 18±1

107

We follow the Stitch Terminology as recongized by International Organization for Standardization.

Please reference below:

https://www.iso.org/standard/10932.html

http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/glossary/stitch-terminology-glossary/

108

SEAM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Location Stitch

Collar Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch

ShoulderSeam

2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge

Placket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch with 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge

Pocket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch

Armhole 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge

SleeveSeam

2 Needle 4Thread Overedge

Side Seam Underarm

2 Needle 4Thread Overedge

Cuff 2 Needle 4Thread Overedge

Hem As per spec pack

109

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Straight

Keyhole

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION

Buttonhole Type

Must be Lock Stitch Type #304

Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons

Buttonhole Thread

Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density


ChunkyGauge

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density


For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density


ChunkyGauge

Button Hole Standard

Fine Gauge Chunky Gauge

110

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)

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Quality Points (Women’s only)

Buttons set on wearers left Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCSMark button position after making button holes

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FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified

111

STITCHING STANDARDS


Dress Shirts

John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Broletto

Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate, 1901, Rack & 14th & Union

Regular Non-Iron RegularSmartcare & Non-

IronSPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1

Sport ShirtsRegular Smartcare

Heavy Gauge Thread

SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1

Young Mens

Shirts RegularHeavy Gauge

Thread

SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1

Standard Seam TypesDescription Construction Top ViewShoulder Set with Yoking Seam or

Seam, Fold & Cord

Armhole Set with Sleeve Set Seam

Side Seam & Underarm

Set with Faux French Seam

Set with Felled Seam

Set with 5 Thread Safety stitch

112

Nordstrom Product Group CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Design... · 1-W-Front Lining 38 1-W-Hem Finish-C 39...

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