No Evil 00 Book

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PROJECT W077-13

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Transcript of No Evil 00 Book

Page 1: No Evil 00  Book

PROJECT W077-13

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PROJECT W077-13

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PROJECT NO EVIL: the ultimate pair of jeans

‘No Evil’ is a limited edition jean concept from British brand Natural Selection Denim.

Each jean is comes in a special presentation box containing in a with a letter signed personally by John Park.

July 2013

Founded in 2009, Natural Selection Denim has been a pioneer of quality �t and construction through uncompromising fabrications, �nishing techniques and understated detailing.

‘No Evil’ sees Natural Selection take this denim to create a limited run of 360 pairs of jeans to be released over the course of the year through 12 carefully selected stores worldwide and Natural Selection’s own e-commerce site. Designed with the utmost attention to detail, craftsmanship and construction special attention has been given to the �t and cut to create the pinnacle of the moderndenim jean and a true collectors item.

In 2007 GOTS’s founder John Park bought 1000m of organic 14oz selvedge from denim mecca White Oak plant, part of Cone Mills in North Carolina. Shortly after purchasing the fabric the mill terminated organic cotton production leaving John with some of the most precious and iconic denim available which until now has remained uncut.

Made from unique selvedge denim, ‘No Evil’ is a must have piece for denim lovers and collectors.

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THE JEAN

FRONT

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THE JEAN

BACK

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THE JEAN

DETAILS

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THE FABRIC

STYLE # W077 Revision Date: 10/09/2007

STYLE NAMECOLOR Indigo- sulfur topDYE PROCESS Rope Yarn DyeSIZING MATERIAL Blended Starch, WaxCOUNTRY of ORIGIN USA

TEST METHOD AVERAGE MINIMUMFIBER CONTENT 100% Cotton AATCC20AFABRIC CONSTRUCTION 3x1 RHT NACUTTABLE WIDTH 30.5" D3774OVERALL WIDTH D3774

WEIGHT (OZ./SQ.YD.) RIGID 14.25 oz D37763HW D3776

CONSTRUCTION RIGID 72 x 55 D3775(W x F) 3HW D3775

YARN SPINNING WARP ARS NAFILL ARS NA

TENSILE STRENGTH LBS RIGID D5034(W x F) 3HW D5034 165 x 121

TEAR STRENGTH LBS RIGID D1424(W x F) 3HW D1424 10.3 x 9.0

SEAM SLIPPAGE D434

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY WARP AATCC135 -2.0 0.0 to -5.0%

FILL AATCC135 -3.0 0.0 to -5.0%

STIFFNESS D4032 6.5 to 13.5

WARP ELONGATION D3107 4.0 to 10.0

SKEW % D3882 5.0 to 11.0

Filling Stretch D3107 NA

30 min Growth D3107 NA

COLORFASTNESS LIGHT @ 20 AFU AATCC16 opt3 4.0

OZONE AT 2 CYCLES AATCC109 3.5

COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDRY AATCC61Shade 3.0

Stain NA

CROCKING WET AATCC8 1.0

DRY AATCC8 3.0

FLEX ABRASION D3885 1000x1000

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 DNI

SPECIFICATION SHEET

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By Way of Natural Selection

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PROJECT W077-13

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As a trained mathematician, I have always found appealing the use of numbers and other symbols of academia.

IN THE BEGINNING - GOTSNatural Selection Denim was launched in 2009 by a UK design collective called Guardians of the Standard (GOTS). Set up in 2007, GOTS’s mission was to uphold a certain standard of integrity and quality in menswear that it felt was being diluted. We wanted to create to a high level of construction and ethics, whilst also communicating its values with subtle motifs and hidden branding identifiers.

SECRET SOCIETIES AND NUMBERS

Numbers have always been imbued with special powers. Secret societies such as the Freemasons, Illuminati and Templars used key numbers in their symbolism and identity. �e idea was that as well as the obvious beauty and structure, the great monuments, cathedrals and even paintings would use these symbolic numbers; mathematical and deeply embedded, they could only be appreciated by other ‘enlightened’ people.

We wanted to mirror this in our philosophy for design and construction. Not immediately obvious, but those who appreciate quality would know what to look for. �e secret societies valued ancient Greek as the scholarly language and gave great significance to the numbers 7, 13 and 77, which we adapted for our own.

NATURAL SELECTION DENIMNatural Selection Denim was GOTS’s first brand launched to express our passion for understated craftmanship, built on the concept of evolution; a homage to the fabric itself.�e mark of our collective has always been carried on our jeans through the Iridium coloured fly buttons stamped with the Greek letters G.O.T and S. A symbol of enlightenment and academia, Iridium is a clean white metal used to make the best pens and most authentic writing instruments.

CONE MILLS W077Since my year in Japan during the mid 90’s I have collected jeans, particularly the brands replicating the craftmanship of the American jeans from the 1940’s. �e mill at the centre of all denim lore is Cone Mills. �eir White Oak plant in North Carolina is the original mill that has made Levi’s selvedge for 120 years. Searching for the most historically significant and ethical denim to craft our jeans, I called Cone Mills in 2007 and asked for a 14oz selvedge in organic cotton. �ey had only one article called W077, which had the shade colour 13. Due to the order minimums I bought 1,000m and we marvelled at the co-incidence of the article number.

IT WAS NOT TO BEOur noble idea of an ethical, sustainable and organic Natural Selection Denim had to be put on hold. Laundry technology, which is so central to our philosophy of evolution, was not where we felt it should be without compromising what we do. It was a matter of time for technology to advance, which would allow us to reveal the beauty of denim and meet our original ethical ideals.

NO EVILNamed ‘No Evil’, the project was symbolised by the green circle representing the circle of life as well as sustainability. It is meant to be the pinnacle of craftsmanship, fabric and details in the best fit and cut, for the best denim stores in the world.

‘No Evil’ backwards also reads ‘Live On’.

THE LETTER

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THE LETTER

John Park - Natural Selection Denim

THE FABRICShortly after I purchased the fabric, the organic cotton industry in the USA collapsed for political reasons. �e fabric is locked in the history of denim lore, being the only 14oz organic selvedge out of White Oak. Carrying a green selvedge, with a green caste of natural indigo it has a luxurious soft handle that belies its 14oz weight. �e oak floors and the old looms combined to create character that shows the fabric’s class.

THE CUTA modern straight leg jean with a hem opening of 15 inches, this has been tried and tested by our clients all over the world, who recognise and appreciate our pattern as one of the best in the denim industry today.

THE LAUNCH�e wait is over. We will work with our clients and customers that have supported us to launch this unique limited edition project. Natural Selection Denim now has the global recognition and distribution to successfully bring these jeans to those who would truly appreciate the work and thought that has gone into them wherever they are.

‘No Evil’ is from our past and also looks to our future. �is is the first and also the spearhead of our ethical program. We launch on the cusp of a tipping point as ethically made jeans become more mainstream and the technology allows them to be competitive. Now as we become a full contemporary collection the project maintains our roots in the craftsmanship and lore of vintage denim.

‘No Evil’ is our goodbye and hello.

Branded with 13 stitches that sits on the right hand seam, it has 7 points facing forward representing our future, and 7 points facing back representing our past. It also mathematically and graphically symbolises the project 77-13.�e centre front button is a green circle symbolising the project and matching the colour of the selvedge.First introduced 3 years ago, we have constructed a continuous fly that carries the fabric’s unique green selvedge.Consisting of 4 hidden rivets, 4 front rivets, 4 fly buttons and the centre front button there are 13 metal pieces in the jean.All stitches are in tobacco and tonal indigo threads to give a clean and uncluttered aesthetic. Quality should not be disturbed by distractions.

�e Details:•

THE CRAFTSMANSHIPOur ‘No Evil’ project is made the same way jeans were produced at the pinnacle of the craft in the 1940’s. It features all the construction methods and craftsmanship as all our selvedge jeans, outlined in our ‘Origin of Species’ letter.

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THE LETTER

‘No Evil’ backwards also reads ‘Live On’

�e green circle button symbolises the circle of life

Limited to 360 jeans to symbolise each degree in a circle

�e fabric was bought in 2007

By co-incidence the Cone Mills designated this fabric W077-13

To be launched with 13 carefully selected retailers around the world

�e launch of ‘Project No Evil’ will be July 2013 - 07.13

‘Project No Evil’ has 13 letters

�e jeans have 13 metal rivets and buttons

�e fly buttons carry the Greek letters GOTS and their colour is Iridium

Iridium is the 77th element in the periodic table

�e branding on the jean of 13 stitches, with 7 points forward and 7 points backward,

preflects 77-13

In numerological terms, where A is 1, B is 2, C is 3 etc, as illustrated in the presentation

gbox, the letters NO EVIL add up to 77

We simply feel that it is time. In the light of the ideals of GOTS, our passion for numbers and hidden meaning, we ask you to consider the following 13 points.

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360 JEANS - 13 STORES - JULY 2013

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European Sales:Russell Pickett/ [email protected]

US Sales:Dana Dramov/ [email protected]

Global Sales: John Park/ [email protected]

PR Enquiries:Dana Dramov/ [email protected]