Nidhi Chauhan - Fragrance and Flavour Development Centre ... · Flower- Rose & Jasmine ... Steam...

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Nidhi Chauhan ITC Life Sciences & Technology Center Bangalore

Transcript of Nidhi Chauhan - Fragrance and Flavour Development Centre ... · Flower- Rose & Jasmine ... Steam...

Nidhi Chauhan ITC Life Sciences & Technology Center

Bangalore

Aromatic Plants

Essential oils

Relaxation & Wellness

Parts of Aromatic Plants

Root- Vetiver, Sandal

Grass- Palmarosa, Lemongrass

Whole Plant- Mentha, Basil

Heart wood- Sandal ,Cedar

Flower- Rose & Jasmine

Leaves- Eucalyptus

Fruits (Peel)- Lemon Oil

How to pull out…

• Steam Distillation:

• Steam + Water distillation

• Solvent Extraction

• Maceration

• Cold Pressed

Essential Oils

The odourous oils contained in flowers, buds, leaves, stems, wood, fruit, seeds and roots of a plant and some times in more than one of these parts

Olfactory System bypass blood – brain barrier

Effect on body, mind and spirit

Aromatherapy

Method of therapeutic treatment in which essential oils of aromatic plants are applied to the body by massage, bath or inhalation

Back to the nature trend

AMA – Aromatherapy as Psychosomatic

(87-90% illness are psychosomatic)

Perf

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Bergamot Oil

Lemon Oil

Citrus Notes

Floral Notes

Jasmine

Rose

. Muguet

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Spicy Notes

Clove Bud Oil

Cinnamon Perf

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Sweet Notes

Abs. Vanilla

Fruity Notes

Peach, Berry, Apple

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Mossy Notes

Oak Moss

Woody Notes

Sandalwood Oil

Cedarwood Oil

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Green Notes

Galbanum Oil

Herbaceous Note

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Lavender Oil

OilsK/Odour ProfileC Floral Woody Sweet Citrus Camphoraceous Fresh Spicy Green Minty Herbaceous Earthy

Sandalwood oil

Eucalyptus oil

Rose oil

Geranium oil

Lavender Oil

Rosemary oil

Lemongrass oil

Peppermint oil

Vetiver oil

Patcholi Oil

Perfumery Value

Perfumery values- words of

impressions(Odour characteristics)

Light/Heavy

Sweet/Dry

Warm/ Cool

Rich/Thin

Lavender oil/Tuberose absolute

Basil/ Carrot seed oil

Clove oil/ menthol

Geranium oil/ terpenes

Fragrance Visualization

Top note : “First Impression” in Perfume.

High Volatile.

Citrus, Fresh, Green notes…..

Middle note : “ Heart of fragrance”.

Intermediate Volatile

Floral, fruityAldehydic notes

Base note : “ Basic of fragrance”

(Bottom) Low Volatile

Woody, Powdery, Musky …..

Perfumery Value

OilsK Area of cultivation Annual Oil Production Plant Part

Production Method Perfumery Note

Sandalwood oil Karnataka, Tamil Nadu Around20 M. Ton Heart wood

Steam Distillation Base

Eucalyptus oil

Tamil Nadu (Nilgiris), Karnataka, Kerala, Punjab, Uttrakhand, Chhattisgarh

More than 500 M. Ton Leaves

Steam Distillation Top

Rose oil U.P; Rajasthan; H.P., Uttrakhand, J&K

150Kgs.(approx.) Flowers

Water Distillation Middle

Geranium oil Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh & Uttarakhand < 5 M. Ton Leaves

Steam+Water Distillation Middle to top

Lavender Oil

Foothills of Himalaya, Jammu & Kashmir, Himanchal Pradesh

Around 1.0 M. Ton Flowers

Water Distillation Middle

Rosemary oil Leaves Steam+Water Distillation Top

Lemongrass oil

Kerala, Karnataka, Assam, West Bengal, UP & Uttarakhand <600 M. Ton Leaves

Steam+Water Distillation Top

Peppermint oil Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand

< 3000 M. Ton. Whole Plant

Steam+Water Distillation Top

Vetiver oil Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Karnataka About 20 Tons Roots

Steam Distillation Base

Patcholi Oil Tamilnadu, Karnataka, Assam, West Bengal About 20 Tons Leaves

Steam+Water Distillation Base

Functional groups

Chemical Functional groups of aromatic oils

&

Their Therapeutic Actions

OilsK/Functional groupsC Acids Alcohol Acetates Phenols Ketones aldehydes sesquiterpenes

Monoterpene

Sandalwood oil Santalol Furfural Santalene

Eucalyptus oil

1,8-cineole, trans-pinocarveol Citronellal α-pinene

Rose oil Geranic acid

Citronellol, Geraniol, Nerol, PEA of alcohols Damascone

Geranium oil

Fatty acids and derivatives

Lavender Oil Eucalyptol, lonalool

Linalyl acetate Camphor Limonene

Rosemary oil Borneol, linalol

Bornyl acetate

Cineole, camphor cuminic α-pinene

Lemongrass oil geraniol , Linalool

geranial , neral

Limonene, Myrcene

Peppermint oil Menthol Iso menthone Limonene

Vetiver oil khusimol

α-vetivone and β-vetivone

Patcholi Oil Patcholi Alcohol

Alpha-Patchoulene

Acid : Antiseptic, Diuretic, Stimulating

Alcohols: Stimulating, Energising, anti viral,

Antiseptic and antibacterial

Acetates: Relaxing, Sedative, anti-spasmodic

Phenol: Disinfectant, anti-bacterial, Stimulating,

Anti-inflammatory

Ketones: Relaxing, wound healing, Dermatiphilic

Sesquiterpenes: Anti-inflammatory, Balancing

Aldehydes: Relaxing

Effect of Essential oils

Relaxing

Balancing

Stimulating

Esters , aldehydes, ketones

Sesquiterpenes

Monoterpenes, Acids, Alcohols,

phenols, oxides

Effect of Essential oils

Jasmine

(relaxing)

Chamomile

(balancing)

Eucalyptus

(stimulating)

Esters-70%

Sesquiterpenes-47%

Terpenes,Oxides-96%

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Sandalwood – Antidepressant, Sedative, Antiseptic, Anti-bacterial

Eucalyptus - Antiseptic, Analgesic, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-microbial, Expectorant

Rose - Antidepressant, Sedative, Antiseptic, Antiviral, Aphrodisiac

Geranium - Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Antidepressant, Diuretic

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Lavender – Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Anti-bacterial, Carminative, insecticidal

Rosemary- Antiseptic, Analgesic, Diuretic, Digestive, Anti-microbial

Lemongrass - Antidepressant, Anti-microbial, Sedative, Antiseptic, Anti-bacterial, Fungicidal, insecticidal

Peppermint - Anti-inflammatory, Anti-microbial, Antiseptic, Carminative, Vermifuge

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Vetiver – Relaxing, cooling

Patcholi- Anti-inflammatory, Antidepressant, Astringent

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Cosmetic and Other Aromatherapy benefits of oils

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin Care : Useful for dry, cracked,

and chapped skin, greasy skin,

moisturizer.

Nervous system : Depression,

Insomnia, nervous tension, stress-

related complaints.

SANDALWOOD

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin Care : Burns, blisters, cuts,

insect bites, lice, skin infections,

wounds

Circulation, muscles and joints :

Muscular aches and pains,

rheumatoid arthritis, sprains

Respiratory system : Asthma,

bronchitis, sinusitis, throat infections

EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS

AROMATHERAPY USE

Immune system : Best known for

colds &Catarrh

Nervous system : headache,

neuralgia

Other uses : Insect repellent

EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin care : Widely used in Cosmetic

industry (Thread veins, dry, mature and

sensitive skin, wrinkles, eczema)

Nervous system : Depression, insomnia, frigidity, headache, nervous tension, stress-related complaints.

Rose

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin Care : Acne, bruises, broken

capillaries, cuts, eczema, hemorrhoids,

ringworm, ulcers, wounds

Circulation system : Poor blood

circulation.

Respiratory system : Sore throat, tonsillitis

GERANIUM

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin care : acne, bruises, burns, inflammation, insect bites and stings, lice, ringworm, sunburn, wounds

Circulation, muscles and joints : rheumatism, sprains

LAVENDER

AROMATHERAPY USE

Skin Care : Acne, dermatitis, aczema,

lice, scabies, hair, and scalp.

Circulation, muscles and joints : fluid

retention, gout, muscular pain,

neuralgia, palpitations, poor circulation,

varicose veins, rheumatism.

Respiratory system : Asthma,

bronchitis, whooping cough.

ROSEMARY

AROMATHERAPY USE

Digestive system : indigestion,

gastroenteritis,

Immune system : Fevers, infectious

diseases.

Nervous system : Headaches,

nervous exhaustion, stress-related

conditions.

Other uses : Insect repellent .

LEMONGRASS

AROMATHERAPY USE

Digestive system : cramp, flatulence, nausea.

Immune system : Colds, flu, fevers.

Nervous system : Fainting, headache, mental fatigue.

Other uses : insect repellent.

PEPPERMINT

USING ESSENTIAL OILS

Bathing treatment

Compress

Inhalation

Gargle

Massage

Room Fragrance

British Pharmaceutical Codex

Chamomile oil- Aromatic Carminative

Lavender Oil- Carminative, mild stimulant

Peppermint oil- Acts as a local anesthetic

Thyme oil- Antiseptic & counter irritant

INTERNATIONAL PRICES

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Analgesic - reduces pain

(Eucalyptus)

Anesthetic - causes loss of Sensation (peppermint)

Antiseptic - destroys & prevents the development of microbes ( Lavender)

Bactericidal - destroys & prevents the spread of Bacteria

( Sandalwood)

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Antidepressant -Helps alleviate depression (Basil)

Sedative - Calming (Rose)

Aphrodisiac - Stimulates sexual desire (Jasmine, Sandal)

Therapeutic Actions / Values

Anti-inflammatory - Alleviates inflammation

(Chamomile)

Expectorant - Helps promote removal of mucus from respiratory system (eucalyptus)

Diuretic - Aids production of urine, (rosemary)

Insecticidal - Repels insects

(lemongrass, peppermint)