Newsletter

WJA San DiegoFall 2018

You’re Invited to Our Annual Holiday Party! Sunday, December 9th

Join us for one of our favorite events: WJA San Diego’s Annual Holiday Party hosted at the beautiful Cucina Enoteca restaurant in Del Mar’s Flower Hill Promenade. Come enjoy a delicious meal and great drinks, our popular silent auction, and celebrate another wonderful year coming to a close.

The holiday party is always a great way to catch up with your industry colleagues and friends, and meet new ones! As always, we look forward to welcoming new members and guests, and can’t wait to see you all there.

This special event is free for our members as a way of saying thank you for your support and participation in our chapter this year!

The silent auction is a tradition that is a popular part of the evening, thanks to the generosity of our chapter members who donate items and/or who participate during the party. Let’s make this year’s auction the best ever! We are seeking donations. If you have something to donate for the auction, please contact us by Friday, November 30th. We will send you the form. Contact: Orasa Weldon at owdesign1@ me.com.

These are just 2 of the silent auction items donated by the GIA Library. Images courtesy of GIA

Another successful event!Robert Weldon spoke about his recent trip visiting the corundum-and garnet-rich region of Tanzania. The audience was captivated as he updated us on the state of the Tanzanian gem business. He explained in detail GIA’s very successful beneficiation activities with

East African Miners. Inspired by Robert’s efforts and in the spirit of giving back, this night we held a successful food drive at the event to benefit a local San Diego charity. Thank you all for your donations.

Ring: The Lotus by Larisa Zolotova. Engagement Ring. 14k white and rose gold with rubies and diamonds.

In every issue of our newsletter we like to show off member’s creations to correspond with our feature article. This issue it’s “The origin of wedding rings,” by member Phoebe Shang.

Top: Sapphire samples from Robert’s recent trip to East Africa. Photo Robert Weldon/GIA

Left: Women miners in Tanzania. Photo Robert Weldon/GIA

Coming up in 2019: Networking Event, Post Tucson, Speed Mentoring, Co-Hosted Event with LA Chapter/Panel or Expert Tables, Member Appreciation Night, and much more. Some of these are ideas and subject to change. Your feedback and suggestions are always appreciated!

Fall 2018 Board

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President: Julia Popovich

President-Elect: Christine Lopez

Past President: Rebecca Boyajian-Pecnik

Secretary: Elizabeth Brehmer

Treasurer: Marreena Appleton

Website & Communications: Sara Rey

Events: Jennifer DeMoro, Wade Clar, Nellie Barnett

Membership: Christine Lopez, Peter Harts

PR: Niki Grandics

Scholarships & Grants: Lisa Slovis Mandel, Eliana Zepeda Graham

Newsletter: Orasa Weldon

Sponsorship: Jennifer DeMoro

Board

Janet F. Williams:

“Think Big: A New Vision for Lisa Slovis Mandel”

Janet is also our newsletter editor.

Phoebe Shang:

“Ancient tradition or marketing invention? The origin of wedding rings”

Contributors

Fall 2018 Hello from Julia

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San Diego Chapter President Julia Popovich

Hello WJA San Diego

As we say goodbye to 2018 and welcome 2019, I want to thank each and every one of YOU, our membership, for helping to make this a great year!

In September we held our biggest event of the year, our Jewelry Night Out Event. This event is WJA’s annual membership drive with a focus on connecting chapters and members everywhere. It is one night of the year for all WJA members and prospective members to come together and celebrate! Our event this year focused on networking and education, and we held a panel discussion around one of the industry’s hot topics, “The Art of Selling Luxury.” Our panelists included Rita Famulare of Famulare Jewelers in Carlsbad, Jamie Williams of Woven8 in Orange County, and Mikayla Harts of Merz Pharmaceuticals in San Diego. Moderated by our very own Liz Brehmer of GIA, panelists shared their experience and knowledge with the group. Although each panelist approached questions from a different point of view within the luxury market–from fine jewelry retail, branding and marketing, and medical grade skincare sales respectively–they all agreed on one thing: “The key is to offer your customers a high quality product, coupled with a wonderful experience and great customer service.”

In the spirit of welcoming and celebrating our new and existing members after our Jewelry Night Out event, we held a New Member Welcome Brunch in October. It was a fun event held in San Diego’s Old Town, full of networking and sharing…the true essence of WJA! I felt the energy of networking all around me as members exchanged business cards, and shared suggestions on manufacturers, market research techniques, and the best local casting companies, to name a few. Members in attendance ranged from jewelry designers, GIA students, and wholesalers, to fine jewelry retailers.

Recently, we had the pleasure to host Robert Weldon again as he spoke about his recent trip visiting the corundum- and garnet-rich region of Tanzania. The audience was captivated as he updated us all on the state of the Tanzanian gem business. He explained in detail GIA’s very successful beneficiation activities with East African Miners. Inspired by Robert’s efforts and in the spirit of giving back, we held a successful food drive at the event to benefit a local San Diego charity.

Our last and most popular event of the year is our annual Holiday Party. This year the holiday party is on December 9th at Cucina Enoteca in Del Mar, and we will have a fun photo booth and a silent auction table. If you are interested in donating an item or service for our silent auction, please reach out to a board member or myself. I hope to see you there!

We are already busy planning many great events for the year ahead. Please stay tuned for some great networking and mentorship focused events in 2019!

To stay up to date on events, please follow us on Instagram and Facebook. To view a list of San Diego Chapter events online and nationally, please visit www.womensjewelryassociation.com.

Cheers to a healthy and happy 2019!

Julia

WJA San Diego Fall 2018

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Think Big: A new vision for Lisa Slovis Mandel

By Janet F. Williams

For much of her career, WJA member Lisa Slovis Mandel, metalsmith and teacher, has focused on wearable and smaller household adornments, using metal as the main component. She has worked in gold, silver, pewter, steel, copper, brass, wood, and other materials including enamel and gemstones. Lately, her work has grown—literally—to include larger pieces, so large they’ve expanded beyond the interior confines of her studio and moved into the great outdoors. At one time, her large pieces would have been about the size of a bread box. Now they reach 15 feet tall!

Her interest in outdoor sculptural pieces partly explains why she has begun to shy away from smaller trade shows. As a mother of two school-aged boys, it is hard for her to prepare and travel out-of-town, finding it more practical to limit herself to certain high-end shows. Most of Lisa’s work is available on a retail basis, though she does offer some wholesale.

Many artists do not confine themselves to one style for their entire career. Interests change. Materials change. Costs change. And perhaps most importantly, an artist’s vision can change. After almost twenty years in the business, I was not surprised to learn that Lisa’s interests continue to evolve. I asked her what she found appealing about working in both small and large formats.

“When I create a small piece,” she said, “people pick it up. They hold it in their hand, turn it around and look at it up close. When I make a large piece, they look at it from a distance and it’s as if they see it from the periphery.”

Ohr Trees of Life: Installation at Ohr Shalom Synagogue. Photo by Mark Tanner

The excitement in her voice told me more than the details she laid out about how others perceive her work. When fashioning smaller items, she has greater control with the details and the personal elements inclusive in working on a size that is meant to be seen up close. Small work, such as jewelry or a menorah, provides intimacy with the item, both for her and the person who buys it.

It is apparent Lisa loves her work. She loves the tactical qualities of the metal as she handles the material, the process of creation, and the textures she utilizes. These elements vary depending on size. Small pieces may showcase fine textures, whereas large work has texture appropriate for its scale, which provides her with different challenges.

A large sculptural piece becomes part of the environment in which it resides and people respond differently to it. They may experience the piece from a distance to take in its grandness or to appreciate how the shapes silhouette against the sky. Or they may choose to examine it more closely to pick out textures and detail that one cannot see from afar. Lisa and her husband David work on larger works together. They call these pieces “Jewelry for the Neighborhood,” celebrating how their artwork relates to the environment for which it was created.

A good example of a large scale item would be the installation commissioned by Ohr Shalom Synagogue in San Diego for Lisa and David to create two metal trees that reach 21 feet across and 15 feet in height. There is a bench in between the trees where people can sit. The art also acts as a centerpiece for donations with plaques that ring the base and are scattered about the trees. Here, mood plays an important part. An artful area within a temple gives its patrons a focal point in which to reflect upon memory, philanthropy, spirituality, and beauty, among other thoughts and feelings.

I spoke to Lisa during the La Jolla Art and Wine Festival where she showed off her latest designs, “pods,” as she called them. Each pod-like shape is made of welded silver wire, sometimes with argentium, a purer 935 silver with different alloys than 925 silver. Through skillful use

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Unfinished Business

of positive and negative space, Lisa curls, shapes, and solders the wire into fanciful airy forms, yet there is enough material to define the shape. The smaller, 3 inch high pods became pendants on a chain—a unique idea, for sure! Also on display were a few bracelets, and equally fanciful rings, including one that looked like a lily pad.

Lisa has long used whimsical elements in her work and each pod held its own intrigue. Keeping to her vision of creating larger items, she also has giant pods up to 30 inches in height made from welded steel. The clean, crisp lines are reminiscent of Scandinavian design. They are meant to hang indoors where they will not rust.

Pods and pod-like shapes are found in nature, and it is their elemental structure that Lisa finds intriguing. “They are intricate, sometimes delicate, but always strong,” she states. “Pod skeletal armor can be organic, transparent, and very tactile. On a jewelry scale, they are intimate elegant cages to hold something special, even as a temporal vessel. Some have pearls, some marbles, and some need nothing within except for personal thoughts or ideas. On a larger scale, pods are floating worlds with galactic references within.”

The larger pods are a collaborative effort with David, who for his part used enamel paint to finish the look. Lisa and her husband often combine their talents, a smart move when the end result is this impressive. Lisa’s goal was to make these orbs marble-like in their appearance and to insinuate movement.

The La Jolla show allowed passers-by to view her larger work and even take one home. This event has been an important venue for her to find commission work for private residences and having the pods on display was a sure way to catch the eye of discriminating art patrons who value individuality and innovation.

Fortunately, the public can view Lisa’s outdoor sculptures locally at Thibodo Park in Vista and in front of the Belching Beaver Brewery Tavern and Grill on East Broadway in downtown Vista. To learn more about Lisa and her work, please visit: http://www.lisaslovis.com.

Top left: Large pod of welded steel with blue orb. Left: Pendant-sized pod with pearl. Photo by Lisa Slovis Mandel

Top: Zane Barrier Fence and Zane Barrier Interior: This steel fence created for a private residence is 72 feet long and includes 3 gates and a mailbox. Photos by Mark Tanner

Fall 2018

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Janet F. Williams, GIA AJP

Writing and Editing Speaking and Presentations

Consulting and Coaching

Website content - Jewelry Descriptions Sales training - Articles - Workshops

760-917-6125

gooddayjanet@gmail.com

JanetFWilliams.com

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Fall 2018 WJA San Diego

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“I joined WJA because I believe in their mission to advance women in the jewelry industry and help them develop professionally through networking, education, and leadership. I believe that if people are willing to share information openly, we all would benefit and excel together.”

Name: Natasha Miu

Hometown: Hong Kong

Skills: Jewelry Design, Marketing, Gemology, Retail

Favorite Gemstone: “Tourmaline! Because it comes in a rainbow of colors and I’m all about color.”

Meet Natasha Miu! Natasha is new to San Diego and WJA but she is no stranger to the jewelry industry. She is currently studying Jewelry Design and Technology at GIA in Carlsbad while working as an independent private jeweler.

Natasha has a deep passion and love for all facets of the jewelry industry. Exposed to the jewelry industry at a young age, Natasha worked part time at her family’s business while double majoring at the University of Southern California (USC). After graduating from USC with her bachelors in Business Marketing and Psychology, she was fortunate to start her fine jewelry career with Tiffany and Co. in Pasadena, CA. It was at Tiffany and Co. where she first learned about the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the specialized programs they offer. Natasha wanted to be more knowledgeable, credible, and confident in the industry so she enrolled in GIA’s Graduate Gemologist distance education program while working full time.

Natasha joined the Roxbury Jewelry and Ronelli Corporation team, a family business that has been serv-ing retail stores and direct consumers for 40 years in downtown Los Angeles, and got hands on experience

learning about vertical integration in the jewelry industry. She says, “Creating a custom piece from scratch is definitely an art. There are so many exchanges of hands that go into the process of creating a quality custom jewelry piece. It’s a rewarding experience to see the finished piece, and the joy and smile on your client’s face is priceless.” Natasha adds that, “Ninety percent of our business was custom bridal and wedding jewelry. I had the opportunity to work intimately with my clients, helping and educating them so that we could pick out a diamond of their liking and custom create their jewelry together. I worked closely with my vendors, jewelers, designers, and manufacturers to bring the jewelry ideas to life.”

After being exposed to the different segments in the jewelry industry, Natasha found her deepest passion in jewelry design. She now wants to set out to establish herself as a jewelry designer and build her own quality brand after graduating from GIA. Natasha first learned about WJA through social media and instantly knew this was for her. She says, “I joined WJA because I believe in their mission to advance women in the jewelry industry and help them develop professionally through networking, education, and leadership. I believe that if people are willing to share information openly, we all would benefit and excel together.” She advises other new members to utilize all the resources offered by WJA—after all, those are the perks of being a member!

We are so happy to have Natasha Miu and we wish her the best of luck on her jewelry journey!

Welcome Natasha Miu

Our new member: Natasha Miu

By Christine LopezPresident-ElectMembership Chair

WJA San Diego Fall 2018

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How long have you been in the jewelry industry?

I have been in the gem and jewelry industry for over three decades. First I started as an assistant manager at a Zale’s Jewelers store in Phoenix, Arizona in the early 80s. My love of gems propelled me to leave that behind eventually, and to go earn my Graduate Gemologist diploma, which I did back in 1986. I decided to do this in residence, regardless the cost, at the Santa Monica, CA campus. I did so because of the instant life-long connections.

If you could offer one piece of advice to WJA members, what would it be?

Above all, the advice would be to follow your dreams. The jewelry industry has a way of shaking off wannabes who lack conviction. For those who hang in there, for those tested by endurance and hard work, the rewards will follow. Secondly, take a few risks. Venture into areas of the industry that are not overwhelmed by competition. Fall on your face a couple of times – painful for the snoot, I know, but you’ll learn a lot.

Who has most influenced you in your journey and why?

Because I work in the GIA Library with women, they have surrounded me all my life, and my life is better for it. I had a great single mother with a wry sense of humor, and incredible kindness and humanity. I had a great aunt Agatha, whose desire to get me

30 years in the gem and jewelry industry makes Robert a

wonderful resource.

started in life culminated in my student career, getting my business degree, and helping with my gemology program. When I graduated as a GG, a wonderful team of ladies, led by Dona Dirlam, welcomed me into the GIA library. I owe so much to her. She’s family. As a reporter for Professional Jeweler magazine, I worked for Peggy Jo Donahue who taught me so much about the power of the written word, nuance, and balance.

What do you know now you wish your younger self had known?

I have no regrets. While I could not have accurately predicted the course of my life, I realize now that one guiding light has always been to be interested in the direction of my career, and to lean into it with vigor. My friends were gemologists and jewelers. I went to symposiums, and lectures, and meetings, and shows. I traveled, sometimes to distant places. Lots of unaccounted over-time accumulated. This didn’t matter. I was always doing what I loved to do.

Tell us one or more reasons of the value behind joining WJA.

I witnessed the very formation of the Women’s Jewelry Association, and I have seen it mature! What I have always admired about this formidable group is its clear mandate to be inclusive and nurturing to new members. Sorry ladies, but I have two reasons: WJA mentorship and connections have no equal in the industry.

Member profile: Robert Weldon

“Venture into areas of the industry that are not overwhelmed by competition. Fall on your face a couple of times – painful for the snoot, I know, but you’ll learn a lot.”

Robert Weldon, Director of the RTL Gemological Library & Information Center, GIA, Gemological Institute of America. Robert and 2 Masai gentlemen in Tanzania. 1993

Robert has engaged in extensive international travel and reporting, writing, photography, seminars, and teaching. He has traveled to some of the major gem producing countries, such as Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia, Russia, China, Burma (Myanmar) to report about gems, people who mine gems, and the business of gemstones. He has illustrated his articles with his own brand of gemological photojournalism. Here we asked Robert five questions.

Fall 2018 WJA San Diego

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Become a member!We are a diverse group of jewelers, artisans, retailers, and educators. Our chapter members are from all

over San Diego County. The members of our chapter are engaging, supportive, and committed to helping each other grow in our careers and family businesses. The San Diego chapter hosts both social and

educational events throughout the year, encouraging networking, business development, and camaraderie.

Member Benefits

TOOLS YOU CAN USE TO ADVANCE PROFESSIONALLY

The WJA offers members many ways to learn, connect, and grow professionally both online and in person.

All members receive:

Access to the WJA website and member directory, which offers an incredible network of professionals in the jewelry and watch industries

Networking events at all major shows internationally

Mentorship via local chapters as well as the international mentorship and leadership development program

Members-only prices for WJA events

Leadership and skill development through local and national board service and committee work

Career services and candidate search support through YourMembership

Exclusive member discount on GIA distance education courses and lab classes

Membership Matters e-newsletters

Access to member grants and scholarships

Access to recognition platforms like the DIVA design contest, Shining Star awards, and more

Member-only discounts to Ganoksin - Jewelry Making Forum and Information Resource

Educational webinars and workshops at industry trade shows

Free Pearl As One Course through The Cultured Pearl Association of America

WJA San Diego Fall 2018

PhotomicrographsAs a gemologist, it is natural to notice and become fascinated by inclusions in gemstones.

This page shows the secret beauty found in gems. And if you aren’t a gemologist, you might find these photos interesting enough to become one!

These examples were captured by the world famous photographer John I. Koivula. All 3 images are courtesy of GIA.

Let us know if you would like to see more in our next issue.

3. Inclusions in quartz

2. Aquamarine inclusions

1. Fine fluid-filled fingerprints and healed fracture in natural yellow (golden) Sri Lankan sapphire at 35x magnification

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Fall 2018

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It was the Egyptian pharaohs who first used rings to represent eternity. That’s because a circle has no beginning and no end, and reflects the shape of the sun and the moon, which the Egyptians worshipped. The Egyptians also thought that the open space in the middle of a ring represented a gateway to the unknown. The Egyptian ouroboros rings portrayed a serpent swallowing its tail, representing the eternal cycle of things.

When Alexander the Great conquered the Egyptians, the Greeks adopted the tradition of wearing rings as symbols of love. Their wedding rings were made of hemp, leather, bone, and ivory.

Romans picked up on this trend, except Roman men gave their wives two rings, one made of iron to represent the strength of the marriage bond, the other in gold to show off in public. Only high-ranking citizens were allowed to wear gold, but commoners gold-plated their rings anyway. The iron rings sometimes had key motifs to symbolize that the wife now had control of the household goods, or the iron rings had magnets attached to them to symbolize the magnetism of love.

Gold wedding rings often showed two hands clasping to represent love and partnership. This is probably the origin of the Claddagh ring where two hands are shown holding a heart with a crown. Wealthy people inlaid their gold rings with onyx, carnelian or amethyst. Some anthropologists say that rings represented a husband’s possession of his wife.

As lore has it, the Romans wore their rings on the fourth finger of their left hand because

The origin of wedding ringsBy Phoebe Shang

Some say exchanging rings is a tradition as old as marriage itself; some say it’s a symbol of patriarchy; some say it’s a myth invented by De Beers.

Where does this tradition come from and why do roughly 83% of married people in America wear a wedding or engagement ring?

they believed that this finger contained a “vena amoris” or “vein of love” that led directly to the heart. Well, the Romans weren’t wrong, because technically every vein leads to the heart.

Fast forward to Medieval Europe. Obviously Medieval men and women knew what they were doing, because wedding rings began to be set with colorful gems. They used rubies to symbolize passion, sapphires to symbolize the heavens, and diamonds to symbolize steadfast strength. Some anthropologists say that rings were basically security deposits; if the man left, at least the woman got to keep the ring.

The first famous diamond engagement ring was given in 1477 by Archduke Maximillian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy. The ring was made up of small flat diamonds that spelled out Mary’s initial, M. An appropriate gift for the most eligible bachelorette of the time! More ornate diamond engagement rings became popular during Victorian times due to Queen Victoria’s famed love for diamond jewelry.

Up until the past century, wedding rings were mostly worn by women, although the Christian church promoted dual wedding rings as a way of keeping men faithful. Dual rings only caught on as a tradition in Europe and the States when, during WWII, soldiers on the front wore wedding rings as a way to remember their sweethearts back home.

In the 1930s, however, the economic downturn meant that nobody could afford pricey engagement rings. That was when De Beers, the diamond giant, stepped in. By launching a massive marketing campaign that involved giving Hollywood actresses

Byzantine wedding ring: This 7th century AD gold Byzantine wedding ring depicts Christ uniting the bride and groom, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wedding_ring#/media/File:Wedding_ring_Louvre_AC924.jpg. Public Domain

Roman Key Ring: An antique Roman key ring.https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Roman_ring.jpg. Public Domain.

diamonds to wear in their movies, De Beers made diamonds the ultimate romantic gem. That’s when diamonds became “a girl’s best friend.”

In 1947, with another genius De Beers marketing campaign, diamonds became “forever.” By the 50s and 60s, diamond culture was in full swing. Giving expensive diamonds was a man’s way of showing a woman that she was “worth it.” It was also his way of demonstrating his earning power. De Beers had an ad that said, “She married you for better or for worse; show her how you’re doing.” No pressure, guys!

In recent decades, rings have become more a statement of individuality and partnership than of economic prowess. Custom-made rings are increasingly popular and many couples pick out their rings together. It’s also not always the man who pays the bill.

Despite their changing connotations, dual wedding rings are now a wedding staple, not just in Western countries, but in any country where fashionable couples want an outward token of their love–and some more sparkle in their wardrobe!

Ancient tradition or marketing invention?

Fall 2018 WJA San Diego

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Phoebe Shang

Each gem has a story to tell.

Phoebe Shang is a jewelry composer with experience crafting gemology textbooks, articles, web content and jewelry descriptions for gem and jewelry companies. Her clients include Kukka, International Gem Society, CustomMade, Seekers Luxu-ry Bracelets and Shanghai Ji-anqiao University. She holds a master’s in creative writing from Columbia University and a graduate gemologist degree from GIA.

Jewelry brings together the best of nature with the best of human ingenuity and cre-ation. The result is a work of art. It is Phoebe Shang’s pri-ority and privilege to share her appreciation for these works of art with the world.

Contributor Contributor ContributorsWe are looking for help to create a jewelry industry-related “Dear Abby” column featuring individuals withdifferent industry challenges and topics.

Would you like to share?

Contact Orasa Weldon:owdesign1@mac.com

Thank you from all of us San Diego Chapter!

Future

Cat’s eye chrysoberyl, excellent cat’s eye, outstanding greenish-yellow gem. 16.09 ct, cabochon, Ratnapura, Sabaragamuwa, Sri Lanka

Courtesy of GIA Dr. Edward Gubelin Collection.Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

Janet F. Williams, GIA AJP

Janet is a writer, editor, and trainer. She authored the award-winning book, You Don’t Ask, You Don’t Get. In her spare time, Janet likes making beaded necklaces.

Please visit: www.janetfwilliams.com and www.gooddaymedia.com.

Fall 2018 WJA San Diego

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A fun event, Summer Mix and Mingle at the Hacienda de Vega in Carlsbad. Don’t miss our next event. Make good contacts, get new ideas, ask questions and get answers. Photos by Steven Lbbotson.

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