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New Directions in Natural Dyes for Cosmetics ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole 22, rue de lArsenal 17300 Rochefort/Mer France Tl : 05 46 99 17 01 Fax : 05 46 87 28 63 contact@critt-horticole.com www.critt-horticole.com Slide 2 ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Humans feel a deep joy when they contemplate colours, the eye needs them in the same way as it needs light Goethe Medlpa woman Corporal paint The Lascaux caves Geek vase Slide 3 ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole / CDP project on natural dyes CRITT Horticole: Regional Center for Innovation and Developpement in Horticulture 20 years work in CRITT Horticole, with a multidisciplinary team and point of view : history, botany, agronomy, biochemistry, industrial process Cultivation of dye plants from temperate climates ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Extraction of dyes, characterization Slide 4 Dyes and pigments production - scale - up to industrial level Developpement in several industrial fields with industrial firms - Settingup of the commercial society COULEURS DE PLANTES Setting up of the commercial society COULEURS DE PLANTES ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA ARRDHOR-CRITT Horticole / CDP project on natural dyes Slide 5 Shareof knowledge, organisation of Symposium Share of knowledge, organisation of Symposium Slide 6 Cosmetics : make up, care products, hair, soaps Regulations, standards and labels came during the 20Th century after the decrease of almost all natural dyes and didnt take into consideration those old vanished products. We dont find specific regulation or standard for natural dyes, they have to be attached to general regulations or norms : insert natural dyes intelligently within modern regulation For rough matter - Refer to CITES CITES: is the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. It is an international agreement between governments. Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival. CITES was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963. CITES now has 175 member countries. Today, CITES accords varying degrees of protection to more than 30,000 species of animals and plants, divided into three annexes ; Annexe I : species that are the most endangered among, threatened with extinction. International trade is banned. Annexe II : species that are not necessarily now threatened with extinction but that may become so unless trade is closely controlled. These species may be authorized by the granting of an export permit or re-export certificate. Annexe III : species not endangered but CITES prevents unsustainable or illegal exploitation. An appropriate permits or certificates is necessary. - ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Cosmetics: international nomenclature and regulations Slide 7 For natural dyes or pigments : INCI = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. INCI names are used for listing ingredients on cosmetic product labels. In order to be used for cosmetics, an ingredient must have a INCI name EuropeUSAChina Southeast Asia Japan INCI nameYes Colour approved for cosmetics Colour Index Positive list to be consulted EINECS : European Inventory of Existing Commercial chemical Substances CFR : Code of Federal Regulations IECIC 2012 : Inventory of Existing Cosmetics Ingredients in China ASEAN Cosmetic Directive CSCL : Chemical Susbtances Control Law If not in positive list INGREDIENT but not colour or pigment Cosmetics: international nomenclature and regulations ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA CAS = Chemical Abstract Service (an operating division of the American Chemical Society, at the origin of the Chemical Abstracts publication in 1907) The unique organization (database) in the world which find, collect and organize all publicly disclosed substance information. Slide 8 Cosmetics: data on the products ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Whatever you by or you sell, whatever you use it for. 1 - Product specification and material security data sheets = Absolutely necessary Similar to chemical product Identification of the producer, the transformer Origin of the rough matter : name and part of the plant Manufacturing process Nomenclature (CAS EINECS INCI - CI) Physical and chemical properties (Texture, water, granulometry, pH, Colour Intensity, Solubility, apparent specific density ) First aid and fire fighting measures Handling and storage Slide 9 Cosmetics: data on the products 2 - Environmental data = Necessary Allergens Cosmetic For Europe there is a cosmetic directive : 7 me amendement de la directive cosmtique CE/76/768. One must indicate the prsence of 26 allergenes in the list of ingrdients We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK - No allergens except Coumarine in Sorgho ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Slide 10 Heavy metals We dont find a unique norm for heavy metals. We have taken the European norme : NFU EN 13432 for bio-material and painting as a reference, for comparison. One can notice different other specifications Example: ppm (mg/Kg) We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Cosmetics: data on the products Slide 11 Lingnierie serres Pesticides Cosmetic, textile, painting For Europe it does exists a listing of molecules for medicinal plants - Those molecules are not allowed in the products. The analyses are requested for cosmetics For various label you may have different listings but Pharmacope is the most complete and the most pertinent for natural dyes: We did the analyses on 12 natural dyes extracts : OK ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Cosmetics: data on the products Slide 12 3 - Toxicological information = Difficult Absolutly necessary for cosmetic Historical and bibliographical data in toxicology Review of existing literature up to a specified date. References in appendix Toxicological tests Done by the firms Local toxicity Primary skin irritation Ocular irritation Allerginicity Sensitisation Systemic toxicity Mutagenesis: Ames test Acute toxicity Oral toxicity DL50 ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Cosmetics: data on the products Slide 13 Quality- tracking - standardisation Evaluation, control, characterization of rough matter, extracts, final applications Spectrocolorimetry Colorimetry CIE 1976, L*a*b Spectrophotometry Color intensity UV/Vis lnm Sun Test for light fastness ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Slide 14 Want to developp a new range of eyes shadows and lip sticks worldwild Requirements : 3 natural pigments to be mixed in their product bases : pink, orange, brown to be mixed Rough material not in danger (CITES ), cosmetic regulation OK No toxicity ; Reproducibility : E < 3 compare to the standard (Standard is a mix between the 3 first batches) - Lab colorimetry system Microbiology Tests, developpement, scale up a two years project : We choose more than 20 plants and propose them to YsL regulation service with a rough materials description. Cf cosmos They made the toxicological, regulation, environnemental evaluations from all the documentation datas : ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / LOral Slide 15 ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA We finally choose 7 plants and made first pigments in the lab with 3 differents supports then 3 plants on one support (Carbonate) have been selected after the toxical test in labs and a work on the antioxydant activity by YsL. Several batches have been made (40 Kg each). Quebracho (Schinopsis lorentzii Enproanthocyanidins Cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus Cav) aurones-chalcones Pernambouc Brasilwood (Caesalpinia echinata L) brazilin Slide 16 Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / LOral ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA T.A.P.E. : Stabilized flavonoids As T.A.P.E. represent a new category of ingredient in which the antioxidant property is really supported by colour, T.A.P.E. are particularly adapted for makeup cosmetics as eye-shadows or lipsticks .. This innovative technology helps to improve cosmetic products efficacy. Because of the technologies used and since they come from renewable sources, the T.A.P.E. development represents an innovation in accordance with environmental respect and protection. COSMTOLOGIE COSMETOLOGY - 60 - PARFUMS COS M T I Q U E S ACTUA L I T S - N 198 - DCEMBRE 2007 YsL invented the TAPE concept with a pattern T.A.P.E. (Tinctorial Active Plant Extracts) are potent antioxidants for a new generation of innovative makeup products. Thanks to the collaboration between YSL Beaut R&D and CRITT Horticole the plant pigments, these molecules which give colours and protection to plants, are overcomed to provide anti-free radical properties and fine shades to makeup products. Slide 17 Cosmetics: Succes stories - Yves St Laurent / LOral ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Focus on rough material : Cosmos came from our cultivation, Quebracho extract was bought Pernambouc : waste to wealth Pernambouc : waste to wealth - Cooperation with firms which produce bows for string music instruments - We use the wood sawdust (CITES : annexe II Logs, sawn wood, veneer sheets, including unfinished wood articles used for the fabrication of bows for stringed musical instruments, are permitted) THANKS TO Sugito Bow Company from Nagoya JAPAN. A most important factor is the selection of high-quality material. There is quite a variety of natural woods; we carefully select wood that is just the right weight and strength. Then we combine advanced technology and artistic sensitivity to create bows of the highest possible quality To keep up with the great demand for Sugito Bows, we use about 15 tons of pernambuco wood each year. . Photos : Sugito Bow website Quality materials, technology, and artistic sensitivity Slide 18 Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Target : Decrease the use of cochineal carmine in make-up formula Carmine red from Cochineal : Beautiful Red and the only red pigment allowed by International regulations in cosmetic products applied in the eye area Objective : Develop Chanels offer with a red colored extract which combine biological activity and high color intensity Achievements : Sanitary safety for a dermis or ocular application (toxicology) High coloring intensity and ease of industrial use RESULT : New range of lipstick with Sappan wood new pigment with antioxydative activity Cf ISEND2011 Chanel lecture Slide 19 Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Search of Red Vegetables Sources Proposal of vegetables species Selection made by Chanel, based on key performance factors seen before (tox, color intensity) SAPPAN WOOD (Caesalpinia sappan) After checking that this product was not on the Cites 3 list of banned exploitation, Sappan wood has been imported from Asia in the form of sticks with a diameter of 1 cm and length of 20 cm. N CASN EINECS / ECNom INCI 89958-14-5289-637-5Caesalpinia sappan bark extract Caesalpinia sappan stem powder Slide 20 Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Protocol that permits the extraction of the wood coloring without using organic solvent Getting a soluble plant extract, with intense color and yeld of 9 to 10% This liquid extract has been precipitated onto a support in order to obtain a pigmented powder which can be introduced in make-up formulae. Insolubilization of the Plant Extract Several supports have been tested in order to fix the coloring extract : The proportions extract/mordant/support have been optimized Kaolin GhassoulSilice Mica Slide 21 ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Kaolin support has been selected for its safety, stability and especially for its red color that persists in a mix with titanium dioxide, that is to say the closest to cochineal carmine in colorimetric formulation even if more transparent. Biological properties have been validated on this support (anti-aging and antioxidant activities) Cosmetics: Succes stories - Chanel Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Intense Lip Colour has been launched on Wednesday, September 5th, 2012. .. New ROUGE ALLURE Luminous Intense Lip Colour represents the next generation of this classic lipstick. Its stunning colour is the result of a concentration of ultra-thin pigments, specially designed to magnify shade intensity. Lighter hues have a unique presence, revealing nuances and depth. Darker tones heighten the drama, with audacity and pure elegance for an ultra-feminine effect. Colour brilliance is only part of the story of new ROUGE ALLURE Luminous Intense Lip Colour. Special hydrating agents and antioxidants, rich in green tea and sappan wood, leave lips supple and protected for lasting comfort, while tea butter ensures colour endures for the ultimate wear. Slide 22 Natural dyes and hair colouring Natural hair colouring is generally based on Henna powders: INCI : Lawsonia inermis leaf powder Natural henna Mixed with Available in few nuances : Colours on hair are often gilded with more or less russet-red blazings INCI : Indigofera tinctoria leaf powder Black henna Slide 23 Dyeing plants (Lawsonia inermis, Indigofera tinctoria) Natural dyes purchased by the french society Couleurs de Plantes (Rubia tinctorum, Haematoxylum campechianum, Reseda luteola, Sorghum bicolor..) Active ingredients with well known benefits (Green tea, Lawsonia inermis.) Composition 100% plant based: Henn Color Premium vgtal www.njd-cosmetics.com Natural dyes and hair colouring ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Henne Color Premium Example of a industrial partnership in hair colouring Slide 24 Henn Color Premium vgtal www.njd-cosmetics.com New generation of colouring powders combining tradition and modernity 100% natural products combining colouring and hair cares (vegetable active ingredients) Hair colouring based on henna powders AND natural dyes Available in a range of 7 colours : -Flamboyant copper -Sensual mahogany -Audacious auburn -Radiant blond -Luminous chestnut -Voluptuous brown -Enchanting black Natural dyes and hair colouring ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Natural dyes and hair colouring Slide 25 ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA Proceedings DVD content List of the 560 participants from 57 countries PowerPoint presentations, comments, papers and abstracts of the 87 lectures 65 Posters Interviews of the 33 dyeing demonstrators Feed-back on the 4 technical outings Artists catalogue (Art and Fashion exhibition) List of the 45 International Market exhibitors 17 min film Couleur Bourdaine List of the 20 broadcasted documentaries Guidebooks of the Exhibitions Colour Purple: from the Atlantic to faraway shores Natural dyes in the collections of the Museum Feed-back on the Art and Fashion schools Selected photos to keep the best souvenirs More information and order form available on www.isend2011.com Slide 26 Thank you for your attention ISEND WEFT 2012 27 SEPT 1 OCT KUCHING MALAYSIA