7/21/2019 Necrotic Flesh Tablet

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 HOW TO PAINT NECROTIC FLESH Welcome to the rst tablet optimized painting instructional from

the Paintshop of Horrors. If you see this icon, then the image

has an interactive quality such as a magnied image in a pop up

window. Just scroll over the image and it will activate automatically.

Today, we are going to learn how to paint simple necrotic esh

for use with any sort of undead miniatures such as zombies, esh

golems, or in this case Necromutants from Prince August.

 Now before we begin, make sure that you remove all the ash and

mold lines from your model.

As far as undercoat goes, for this particular instructional I went with

a black undercoat. I think for this one I used Citadel Black Primer, but

I’ve also had really good results with Testor’s Flat Black Spray paint.

Paint colors needed:

• Ceramcoat Sandstone (P3 Jack Bone works ne as well)

• Ceramcoat Charcoal Gray (any dark gray will do)

• Cermcoat Seminole Green (Gretchin Green works nicely as well)

The model was then coated with a mixture of 40% Ceramcoat

Sandstone, 20% Ceramcoat Charcoal Grey, and 20% Ceram-

coat Seminole Green. If you are using Reaper Master Paints, the

Unblooded Flesh Triad is perfect for this. You can also use Citadel

Rotting Flesh mixed with a touch of Scorched Brown.

At this point, I have washed over the esh areas with Reaper

Brown Ink mixed with Ceramcoat Burnt Umber. I always suggest

adding a drop of ow improver in order to insure that your wash

stays put. If you are feeling really adventurous, a very small amount

of Future Floor Sealer can also really help your wash stay in place...

 just make sure you don’t use too much.

At this step, I have gone and picked out the raised areas with the mix-

ture I used earlier to basecoat. To make this technique work, you want

to avoid getting paint into the deepest recesses (contours of the muscles,

the deeper furrows on the face). What this will do is set up the shading

to give you softer more life-like shading on your musclature.

Once that dried, I added more Ceramcoat Sand Stone to the mix-

ture, this time hitting the high points and making sure to not get

 paint into the shallow recesses. Those would be areas such as the

muscle contour on the forearm, the shallow furrows along his check

line and areas like that.

Step Four sees us doing a light glaze to the eshy areas using a

very watery mixture of Ceramcoat Burnt Umber mixed with a touch

of Ceramcoat Seminole Green. Yes, Green. Nothing says rot and

decay like a slight tint of green on the eshtone.

The nal stage mainly sees a highlighting of raised areas with

 pure Sandstone. From here you can also drybrush with a lighter

color as well.