Natural Aromatics for Personal Care and Household...
Transcript of Natural Aromatics for Personal Care and Household...
Agenda
• Global Market Landscape • Regulatory Glance • Myths about Naturals Revealed • Natural Aromatic Options:
• Essential Oils – Organic and Natural • Natural Aromatic Extracts/Blends • Natural Fragrances
• Olfactive Aesthetics • Product Examples
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GCI July/August 2014
“Increased consumer familiarity with certain harsh chemicals has given rise to many products with “free from” claims, which
have more tangible perceived benefits for consumers.”
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• Natural Personal Care Market growing faster than the general market
• Reflection on the socio culture evolution and consumer attitudes
• Double digit growth since 2008
• CAGR of 10% through 2016 compared to the global conventional personal care market growth of less than 4%(Kline report 2013)
Global Market Landscape
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• Part of a Green Global Mega Trend
• Stores offering more naturally positioned products
• Multi level distribution
• Manufacturers launch new products with natural positioning
• Educated consumer
• Greater transparency in labeling
• Product designed for specific demographic groups
Growth Drivers for Naturals
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• Seeking brands that are friendly: • Environmentally • Socially • Ethically
• Label Conscious
• Driving Green Chemistry
• Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standard
• Natural Products Association Personal Care
Standard
• ECOCERT – Natural and Bio standards • Concern about Synthetics
Educated Consumer
Why?
• Naturals have greater consumer appeal – A matter of perception!
• Safer – Non toxic, No carcinogens
• More Healthful and Therapeutic • Calming, Invigorating, Balancing
• Closer to Nature
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Natural Aromatics
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Natural Aromatics
What ?
• Natural aromatics are made by physically extracting the volatile fractions from plants without chemically altering them.
• International Fragrance Association (IFRA Info Letter 737 - December 2005) • As defined by ISO norm 9235 • Substances isolated by purely physical means
• More stringent definition than Natural Flavor (FDA) • NPA & Whole Foods disallow petrochemical solvents • Natural fragrances can also contain ingredients from biotech –
ferments and enzymatically produced.
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Natural and Organic Product Requirements for Aromatics:
• USDA NOP and NSF ANSI 305 Standard • 100% and 95% - Organic required • Made with (70%) – Natural OK
• ECOCERT – Natural OK
• Whole Foods Premium Body Care –
Natural OK
• Natural Products Association – Natural OK
myth #1- naturals are always non irritating
Aromatic compounds can be an irritant whether they are natural or synthetic
• IFRA guidelines apply equally to naturals and
synthetics
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Cinnamic Aldehyde Cinnamon
myth #2 - naturals are free of EU allergens
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Eugenol
Most Naturals contain EU allergens Two examples:
Clove
Linalool Lavender
EU “Allergen Free” Natural Aromatics
Apple
Apple Pear
Blueberry
Carrot
Roman Chamomile
Coffee Cocoa Cucumber Raspberry Vanilla Coconut
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When used @ 1% use level or less in a product
myth #3 - there is a natural equivalent for every synthetic fragrance
Many synthetic aroma chemicals do not exist in nature
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Fresh Ozone
Natural Aromatic Options
Certified Organic Essential Oil Blends
Natural Essential Oil Blends Natural Aromatic Extracts/
Blends Natural Fragrances
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Essential Oils
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A volatile aromatic oil that is normally produced by steam distillation of vegetable plant matter and maintains the characteristic odor or flavor of the plant. Some botanicals such as citrus peel oils, must be mechanically cold-pressed or expressed from the rinds of citrus fruits due to heat sensitivity. Essential oils have a long tradition of providing a variety of therapeutic benefits.
Certified Organic Essential Oil Blends
◦ All Natural & Organic
◦ Most authentic
◦ Aromatherapeutic
◦ “Fragrance Free”
◦ Most expensive
◦ Problematic supply
◦ Relatively simple & Unsophisticated
◦ Limited Range
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Natural Aromatic Extracts
• “Fragrance Free”
• INCI name same as botanical extract
• Available for botanicals with no essential oil form
• Versatile to compliment variety of product formulations
• Natural as per ISO 9235
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Advantages
Natural Aromatic Extracts
• All components are physically
extracted from plants
• Imparts a natural aroma
• Aromatherapeutic
• Botanical benefits and aroma in a single ingredient
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Advantages
Natural Aromatic Extract Blends
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Orange Vanilla
Honey Fig
Citrus Ginger
Lavender Mint
Grapefruit Pomegranate
Green Tea
Lemon Ginger
Cucumber Lemon
Apricot Mango
Citrus Mint
Floral Blend
Natural Aromatic Extracts for Personal Care - Body
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Burt’s Bees Ultimate Care Body Lotion : Aromatic Extracts: green tea, bergamot, coriander, jasmine, lavender, cypress, vanilla, rose, rosemary, peach
Gold Bond Ultimate Deep Moisture Body Wash Aromatic Extracts: chamomile, lavender
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Natural Aromatic Extracts for Personal Care - Hair
Everyday Coconut Shampoo Aromatic Extract: Coconut Lime Blend
Beautiful Curls Curl Enhancing Shampoo Aromatic Extract: Apricot Blend
Honest Company Shampoo & Body Wash Aromatic Extract: Orange Vanilla Blend
Natural Fragrances
No synthetics/petrochemicals ◦ INCI: Fragrance, Parfum ◦ Complex fragrance compounds made exclusively from natural
aromatics as defined by IFRA. ◦ More complex ◦ Greater flexibility ◦ More mass appeal ◦ Ingredients of a natural fragrance can come from a variety of
plants ◦ Ingredients include essential oils, oleoresins, distillates, fractions,
concretes, absolutes extracts, etc. ◦ Not “nature identical”
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Natural Fragrance Raw Materials
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Essential Oils Fractions Oleoresins Volatile Concentrate Distillates Biotech Ingredients – ◦ Ferments
Terpenes Tinctures Concretes* Resinoid Extracts Absolutes* CO2 Extracts
*NPA & Whole Foods do not allow petrochemical solvents
Natural Fragrances for Personal Care
Tom’s of Maine - Long Lasting Deodorant Stick – Fragrance:
• Apricot, • Wild Lavender, • Lemongrass
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Kirkland Signature Body Wash – Fragrance: Sparkling Grapefruit
Burt’s Bees Wipes - Fragrance: Cucumber & Sage
Synthetic Fragrance Advantages
1. Wider range of ingredients = more sophistication and
creativity
2. Generally lower cost and more stable pricing
3. More consistent quality – natural PEA from rose can smell different than from geranium. Lot to lot variations.
4. Cleaner single notes
5. Easier with which to formulate
6. Easier to manufacture
7. Easier to apply in products
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Contrasts & Comparisons of scent options
Natural Aromatic Extract Blend
Natural Fragrance Synthetic Fragrance
Fragrance free Fragrance Fragrance
Botanical Benefits & Aroma Aroma Aroma
Less Complex Olfactive Impression Complex Olfactive Impression Very Complex Olfactive Impression
INCI= Botanical Extract name INCI = Fragrance/Parfum INCI = fragrance/Parfum
All ingredients physically extracted from named plants
All ingredients physically extracted from any type of plant
Ingredients are chemically derived
Mid – High Cost Mid Cost Low Cost