MyLabel-QualifyTheTunic

7/30/2019 MyLabel-QualifyTheTunic

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QualifyingtheTunicFit

DebbiLashbrook


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Goals

Learn

how

to

recognize

a

proper

fitting

tunic Learnhowtodiagnosefittingproblems

Learnhowtocorrecttheproblemsinthefitting

tunic

Learnwhichchangescanbedoneinthe

software;which

ones

need

to

be

done

manually


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GoodFit


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GoodFit:

Close

ups


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GoodFit

Nina: Defaulttunic;IntendedFit


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GoodFit


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DiagnosingFitting

Issues

Dissecttheissues,onebyon

Neck

base

(affects

across

shoulder

+

dart

position) Shoulderslope (affectshowtunicrestsonshoulders)

Armscyedepth (affectssleevecapheight)

Acrossshoulders (affectsshoulderlength)

Frontwidth/back

width

(dependent

upon

across

shoulders/bust)

BustpointfromCBneck (affectsbustdartposition)

Bustpointtobustpoint (affectsdartlength)

Frontwaistlength& (affectssizeofdart+balance offront+

backwaistlength back)

Bust (affectscircumferenceatbust)

Hip (affectscircumferenceathips)

Sleeve


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QualifyingFit

Usesafetypintoholdtunic


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Checkingthe

Tunic

Fit


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NeckBase

Measurefromneckbasetofinishededgeoftunic


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Neckbase

Properneck

base


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Neckbase

Ifneckmeasurementistoolarge,acrossshoulderswillbetoo

wide+

bust

point

will

be

toolow

Alwayscheckneckbasefirst&correctitbeforeproceeding


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TOCORRECT:

Neck

Base

Remeasureneckbaseifneeded

Recordchangeinsoftware

Printnew

tunic


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Printing

to

conserve

ShortenthefinishedlengthfromCBneck

Placefabric

on

pieces

Increasetransparency

Overlap

and

rearrange

pieces

as

below


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Printing

to

conserve DeselectPrintaMap

Printappropriate

pages

ClickOK


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ShoulderSlope

Cantmeasurefittingproblemswithshoulderslope,buttheissueswillshowintesttunic

Fittingissues

show

in

test

through

five

symptoms:

1.Pullstowardendofshoulder

2.Lifting

at

neckline

3.Gapeatbackofneck

4.Draglinesintounderarm

5.Fullness

in

armscye


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ShoulderSlope

Properfit

through

shoulder


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ShoulderSlope:

Neck

Base

Height

Canuse

this

as

a

check

for

shoulder

slope:

SUBTRACT

[NeckBaseHeight]minus[ShoulderTipHeight] =

[ShoulderSlope

measurement]


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ShoulderSlope

Five symptoms:

1.Checkforpullsfrom

shoulderpointtobust


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ShoulderSlope

2.

Lifting

at

neck


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ShoulderSlope

3.Checkforprotrusionatbackofneckline


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ShoulderSlope

4.Checkfordraglinesintoarmscye


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ShoulderSlope

5.ExcessfabricinarmscyeStickingupatshoulderwhensleeveset

..Shoulderis

not

sloped

enough


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Shoulderslope

Tunicstands

away

fromneck


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QualifyingFit:

Shoulder

Slope

Noticeliftingatnecklineand

pulls

into

shoulder


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QualifyingFit:

Shoulder

Slope

Seelifting

at

neck


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ShoulderSlope


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ShoulderSlope


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ShoulderSlope

Notepullsintoshoulder


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TOCORRECT:

Release

shoulder

seam

Ifsleevehasbeensetin,releaseitaswell

Releaseseam

till

shoulder

seam

rests

flat

on

shoulder


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TOCORRECT:

Shoulder

Slope

Measureamount

of

release

Adjustshoulder

slope

in

modelmeasurements


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TOCORRECT:

Shoulder

Slope

Toeliminatedraglinesthataretooslopedforthe

shoulder,pin

in

new

seam

line,

taking

in

more

at

armscye


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Shoulder

Slope


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Uneven

shoulder

slope


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Uneven

shoulder

slope


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Unevenshoulder

slope,

corrected


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Neck

Base

Height

Difference


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ArmscyeDepth

Armholeisdropped

from

original

height Checkafterneckbase+

shoulderslopechecked

andadjusted


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ArmscyeDepth

Checkbeforesettinginsleevemeasure


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Armscye

Depth Shouldbe3/4 fromoriginaldepth


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Measuringarmscye

depth

Measureunderarm

height

against

thewalltapemeasure

Subtractthis

from

the

cervical

heighttogetanapproximate

armscyedepth

Add12cmforease


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Armscyedepth

Probablythemostdifficultonetomeasure

correctly Usuallymeasuredtoolong


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Armscyedepth

Cancauseproblemwithrestrictedmovementof

armif

too

short

or

if

too

long


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Armscyedepth

Pulls when arms reach forward Tightness when raise arms


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ArmscyeDepth

Tooshort


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TOCORRECT:

Armscye

Depth

Newtunicmustbemadeifarmscyedepthis

too

long

ORCanaddapieceoffabricunderthearm(extension)andusethesametunictosetin

sleeve

Mustprintanewsleeve

UsePrint

Selected

icon


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TOCORRECT:

Armscye

Depth

Stitchdeeper

seam

under

arm

if

too

short

and

trim fromstitching:


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AcrossShoulder

Checkbyobservation

Canalsomeasureagarmentthatfitsyouacrosstheshoulders

Twosymptoms:

Seamfallsoffshoulder;lengthwiseripplesinfront

andsleeve

Pullsintoshoulder;pullsinarmscye,pullsinsleeve


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AcrossShoulders

Measurementtoo

wide;

too

narrow


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AcrossShoulders

Narrowshoulders


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AcrossShoulders

AcrossShoulderscontrolsshoulderlength


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Across

shoulder

influences

width

Width

across

front

istoowideaswell


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AcrossShoulders

Falling

off

shoulder

point


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TOCORRECT:

Across

Shoulders


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CrossFront

&

Back

Width

Remembercross

front

&

back

widtharecontrolledbyacross

shoulder+bustmeasurement

Redrawcorrect

line

on

muslin

Measureamountofscoopneeded

Transfertopattern

Nochangesmadetosleeve


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Across

front


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CrossFront/Back

Width

FrontCross

Width

Back

Cross

Width

TooWide


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CrossFront

Back

Width

Crossfrontwidth Crossbackwidth

TO CORRECT M ll t


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TOCORRECT: Manuallyscoopout

armscye

Useyour

measurement

(cross

front

width

or

cross

backwidth)

Usecurvedrulertomanuallydrawnewarmsyce


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Pattern: Scoopingarmscye


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Checkfor

Level

Waist

Drawlineacrossfrontandbackpatternsfromwaist

notchto

waist

notch

before

tunic

is

sewn

together

Usetheselinestocheckwaistheightonwalltapemeasureduringfitting

Measure for Level Waist


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MeasureforLevelWaist

Makesurethelineacrossthebackhitsthe

actualback

waist

length

Checkbackfirst

according

to

waist

height

measurement

Markcorresponding

positionin

front

so

that

waistheightinfront=

waistheightinback


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Checkfor

Level

Waist


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CheckBack

Waist

Length

Position

Ifitdoesnthitatthebackwaist,markthecorrectpositionintheback

Measurethe

amount

it

is

off

ChangetheBWLinthemodel

measurements

Check Front Waist Length Position


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CheckFrontWaistLengthPosition

Markthisnew

correspondingwaist

heightinfront

RemeasureCB

neck

to

newwaistposition

Check for Level Waist


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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLOK;frontontarget

Nochanges

needed



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLOK;fronttooshort

Dartsize

increases

Check for level front


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Checkforlevelfront



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLOK;fronttoolong

Dart

size

decreases

Dart too deep


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Darttoodeep

Frontlengthtoolongcomparedtobackwaistlength



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtoolong;frontlengthlevelmarkisthesamedifferenceasintheback

Dartremainsthesame



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtoolong;frontlandsatthewaistmark

Dart

becomes

larger



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtoolong;frontlengthlowerthanlevelline

Dart

becomes

larger



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtooshort;frontlengthtooshortbythesameamount

Dartsizewillstaythesame



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtooshort;frontlengthlandsonline

Dart

size

will

decrease



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CheckforLevelWaist

BWLtooshort;frontlengthtoolong

Dart

size

decreases


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Too

short

front

length Diagonalpullstobust


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Front

length

too

short

Diagonalpulls


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Front

Length

too

short

Frontlengthtooshort

comparedto

back

length

Notice pulls across front chest

Frontlengthtoolong


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g g


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Bust Dart Position

TooLow


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DartPosition

Darttoohigh


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TOCORRECT:

Bust

Dart

Position

Measuredifference


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DartLength

Determinedbybustpointtobustpointmeasure

Dartshouldendabout1frombustpoint

Tooshort

in

this

picture


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DartLength

BustPointtoBustPointtooshort


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TOCORRECT:

Dart

Length

Shoulderseambalance


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Forwardshoulderjoint

h ld

l


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Shoulder Seam Balance

ShoulderSeamBalance


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RoundedBack


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ManualAlterations


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Sid

S

Sh


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Side Seam Shape Causedwithshortwaistedfigure,largebust,smallwaist,andlargehighhip

Sid S Sh


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SideSeam

Shape

Changestylepropertiesofwaist/hipuntilsmoothseam

Sl I


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SleeveIssues

Capheight

Circumferenceofsleeve(bicep)

Sleevelength

Caplengthvs.armscyelength(excessease)

Sl


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Sleeve Capheighttoolong

Sleeve


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Sleeve

Sleevecaptooshort

SleeveCapHeight


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Printing

Sleeve

Only


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Printing Sleeve OnlyDefault sleeve Increased depth

AdjustingCapHeight


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ORcanredrawsleevecap

togive

added

height

Bicep: Tightness in Sleeve


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Bicep:

Tightnessin

Sleeve

Horizontalpullsortightness

inbicep

TO

CORRECT:

Bicep


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TO CORRECT: Bicep Remeasurewitharmbentandbytheside

Takethe

measurement

from

the

dominant

arm

Bicep for Sleeve


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Bicepfor

Sleeve

Bicepmeasurementtoosmall

Sleevecapheighttoo

short

ShoulderJoint


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Horizontalpullslargersleeveacrosscap

Shoulder

joint:

Manual

Adjustment


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Shoulderjoint: Manual Adjustment

Slash,spread

Addonly

to

cap

area

Excessinsleevecapback


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Adjusting

Sleeve

Cap

Shape


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Adjusting Sleeve Cap Shape

Thecap

height

can

be

manuallyincreasedby

redrawingandreshaping

theback

curve

of

the

sleeve

106

Excess sleeve cap ease


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Excesssleeve

cap

ease

Toomucheaseinbackbicepforarmscye

Excesseaseinsleevecap

Compare length of cap to back + front armscye


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Comparelengthofcaptoback+frontarmscye

Excess ease in sleeve cap


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Excessease

in

sleeve

cap

Drawverticallinesfromcap

towrist

Slashfromcaptowrist

Overlapslightly

at

cap

to

eliminateexcessfabric

Redrawsleeve

cap

curve

High Shoulder


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HighShoulder

Printseparateright+

leftside

Sway

Back


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Sway Back Wrinklesbelowwaistinback

SwayBack


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Evaluating

the

Fit


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Evaluating the Fit NeckbasetoolargeRED

Shoulderslope

off

BLUE

Acrossshouldersmayneedtobechanged(checkneck

basefirst)

GREEN

Sleevecapheightistoo

short

(PURPLE)

or

across

shoulderistoolong

(GREEN)

Whenaremodelmeasurements

changed & when are style


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changed&

when

are

style

propertieschanged?

Aftertestgarmentsaremade,change

model

measurements

if

all

garments

need

tobeadjusted

Changestylepropertieswhenyouwantachange

to

affect

only

that

style

Measurements

that

dont

affect

pattern


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patternHeight Crossbackwidth

Cervicalheight Crossfrontwidth

Shouldertipheight Shoulderlength

High

hip

height Arm

length

to

elbowKneeheight Midneck

Frontwaistpitch Hipatcrotch

Totalcrotch

length

Thigh

max

+

mid

Knee,ankle,+footinstep

www.berninamylabel.com

www.berninausa.comFebruary26,2008

UsesforMyLabel

P i t d d f lt tt


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Printandsewdefaultpatterns

AdjustStyle

Properties

to

create

a

new

style

withaddedease/circumferenceofhem/

length

Usepatternmanipulationtechniquestocreatenewstylesfrombasicpatterns

UseMy

Label

fitted

patterns

as

an

overlay

to

checkthefitofcommercialpatterns


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MyLabel-QualifyTheTunic

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