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GII THIU MN HC

HNG LIU M PHM

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

1

Mn hc

Khi lng : 42 tit 14 tun

CBPT : Vng Ngc Chnh

Ni dung : 2 phn Hng liu M phm

Hnh thc nh gi :

- Kim tra gia ki : 20%

- Seminar + Thi cui k : 80%

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I. cng mn hc

1.Sinh l v yu cu ca cc i tng m phm : da, tc, mng, rng-ming.

2. Cng dng ca cc loi nguyn liu dng trong m phm.

3. Thit k sn phm m phm.4. Cc dng m phm c trng.

Ch :Phn 3 khi ging s lng cc chng 14, 16, 17, 18 v thm hai phn:

Cosmetic vehicle v delivery system

II. Seminar

1. 1-2 sinh vin/ nhm

2. Giao ti : tun 2

3. Bt u bo co : tun th 7

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3

Ti liu tham kho:

1. Vng Ngc Chnh, Gio trnh Hng liu M Phm, HBK Tp.HCM, 2005.

2. Louis H Tn Ti, Cht ty ra v cc sn phm chm sc c nhn, Unilever, 2003.

3. Mitchell L. Schlossman, The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Allured

Publishing Corporation, 20004. Meyer R.Rosen, Delivery System handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products,

William Andrew Publishing, 2005.

5. H.W. Hibbot, Handbook of Cosmetics science, Pergamon Press, 1963.

6. Andr O.Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I.Maibach, Handbook of Cosmetic science and

Technology, Marcel Decker, New York, 2001.7. J.B.Wilkinson, P.I.Moore, Harrys Cosmeticology, Longman Sciencetific Technical,

1982.

8. Cosmetic JournalTh vin Cao hc

9. Trang web ca th vin i hc quc gia: www.vnulib.edu.vn

10. Internet Search engines (Google, MSN, Yahoo) with keywords

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4

NH NGHA

M PHM ?

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Lch s s dng m phm

Egypt3000 BC

Bt u:

Ai cp c i

Trung hoa c i

Pht trin mnh:

T 1877 : L.Pasteur

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Cosmetic: Bt ngun t ting Hi Lp : Kosm tikos

Having the power to arrange, skilled in decorating giving kosmein toadorn, and kosmos order, harmony

1to enhance personal appeal through decoration of the body

2 - to camouflage flaws in the integument

3to alter or improve upon nature

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A cosmetic, by definition, is a preparation for beautifying or otherwise altering the

appearance of a part of human body including face, hair, teeth, hand and nails,depilatories and suntan lotions.

H.W.HIBBOT, Handbook of Cosmetics science, Pergamon Press, 1963

Cosmetic: 1. Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,

introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof forcleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance

2. articles intened for use as a componenet of any such articles, exceptthat such term shall not include soap

Section 201 (i), 1938 Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)

Cosmetics, general term applied to all preparations used externally to conditionand beautify the body, by cleaning, coloring, softening, or protecting the skin, hair,nails, lips, or eyesMicrosoft Encarta Reference Library 2005. 1993-2004 Microsoft Corporation.

NH NGHA

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Dc phmDrug

M phmCosmetic

M phm c tnh tr liu

Cosmeceutical

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9

Phn loi sn phm m phm

Cch thc phn loi

1. Theo th trng

- i tng s dng (cao cp, bnh dn, nam n, tr em, .)

2. Theo c tnh sn phm

- Cho da, tc, mi, tc, mng,.

3.Theo tnh cht k thut

- Sn phm dng nh, dung dch, paste, .

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Baby productsBaby shampoos

Lotions, oils, powders and creams

Other baby productsBath preparations

Bath capsulesBath oils, tablets and salts

Bubble baths

Other bath preparations

Personal CleanlinessBath soaps and detergents Feminine hygiene deodorants

Deodorants (underarm) Other Personal cleanliness products

Douches

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Fragrance preparationsColognes and toilet waters Sachets

Perfumes Other fragrance preparations

Powders (dusting and talcum, excluding aftershave tale)

Hair preparations (Non coloring)

Hair conditioners Shampoos (non coloring)Hair sprays (aerosol fixatives) Tonics, dressing and other hair grooming aids

Hairs straighter Wave sets

Permanent waves Rinses (non coloring)

Other hair preparationsHair Coloring PreparationsHair bleaches Other hair preparationsHair dye and colors Hair lighteners with color

Hair tints Hair rinses (coloring)

Hair shampoos (coloring) Hair color sprays (aerosol)

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Makeup Preparation ( Not Eye)Blushers (all types) Makeup base

Pace powders Makeup fixatives

Foundations Rouges

Lipstick Leg and body paints

Other makeup preparationsManicuring preparationsBasecoats and undercoats Nail polish and enamel

Cuticle softeners Nail polish and enamel removers

Nail creams and lotions Nail extenders

Other manicuring preparations

Eye makeup preparationsEyebrow pencil Eye shadow

Eyeliner Mascara

Eye lotion Other eye make-up preparations

Eye makeup remover

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Shaving preparationsAftershave lotions Shaving cream (aerosol, brushless and lather) products

Beard softeners Shaving soaps (cakes, sticks)

Pre shave lotions (all types)

Mens talcum Other shaving preparations

Skincare Preparations ( Creams, Lotions, Powders and Prays)Body and hand (excluding shaving preparations)

Cleansing (cold creams, cleansing lotions, liquids and pads)

Depilatories Foot powders and sprays

Night Paste mask (mud packs)

Skin fresheners Face and neck (excluding shaving preparations)

Other skincare preparationsSuntan preparations

Indoor tanning preparations

Suntan gels, creams and liquids

Other suntan preparations


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Th trng m phm trn th gii

Cc cng ty hng uProcter & Gamble - USA Hugo Boss, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Noxell

Unilever - GB&NL Minnetonka Calvin Klein, Nino Cerruti,

Valentino

Colgate-Palmolive - USA Colgate, Palmolive

LOreal - F-CH LOreal, Lancme, La Roche, Cadonett

Kao - J Kao

Johnson & Johnson -USA Baby products, Piz Buin

Bourjois Chanel - F Chanel

Wella - D Gucci

Shiseido - J Shiseido, Carita

Vit Nam ????

C

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Quy m : 125.7 t dollar (1998)

Ti M : 1400 cng ty sn xut

Trn th trng c hn: 10,500 sn phm

Tnh c nc hoa : 25,000 sn phm

C hi vic lm rt ln !!!!

C G HBK T HCM 2007

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1. SkinDa

2. HairTc

3. LipsMi4. TeethRng

5. Nails - Mng

Tm hiu:

- c im cu to sinh hc

-Nhu cu v sn phm m phm

GII THIU

CHNG 1 HBK T HCM 2007

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DA CHC NNG SINH L

LN DA P !!

- Bo v

Pigmentation : Melanin pigments bo v chng li tia cc tm

Bo v vt l : Che ph- Mng n hi Che ph cc c quan bn di.

Mng min dch : Bo v khi s xm nhp ca cc tc nhn gy bnh -

- iu ho nhit : Thng qua mng li tuyn m hi v mao qun di da.

- Bi tit: nc, cht c hi, mui thng qua cc tuyn tit ca da.

- Tng hp Vitamin : vitamin D.

- C quan cm gic: Cha cc u dy thn kinh cm gic, b mt, nhit , au n

VAI TR X HI


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Skin - Da

c im cu to

Cc lp cu to ca da

1. Epidermis

2. Dermis (0.3cm)

3. Subcutaneous fat


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Skin - Da


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Cu trc lp epidermis, chn lng, tuyn tit

Epidemis :

-Lp t bo cht keratine ho

-Lp pigment

Chc nng bo v- Chng mt nc

- t hp thu nc

Nhng cht c th thm qua

da:

Cc cht tan trong du :Vitamine A, D, steroid

hormone (oestrogen,

androgen), phenol,

hydroquinon, alkaloids

CHNG 1 HBK Tp HCM 2007

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1. Tuyn m hi :

Eccrine : iu ho nhit

Apocrine : ?

Thnh phn chnh m hi (eccrine)-Nc : 909 99.5%

-Cht v c : NaCl

-Cht hu c: Urea

pH : 4.55.5

Cc tuyn tit trn da

Thnh phn chnh ca cht tit t apocrine(Do phn hu cc t bo)

- Proteins

- ng

- Ammonia

- Lipids

MI C TH !!!


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Tuyn nhn

Chng mt nc

Chng nhim khun

Thnh phn cht nhn:

-Acid bo 14.3%

-Triglycerides 32.5

-Sp 14.0-Cholesterol 2.0

-Ester Cholesterol 2.1

-Cc sterols khc 0.4

-Squalene (C30H50) 5.5

-Parafins (nhnh) 8.1

-C18C24 alkandiol 2.0

-Cc cht khc 5.1

Cc tuyn tit trn da

MN ????


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Cu trc lp dermis v cc tuyn chc nng ca da


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Cc giai on pht trin ca t bo da

LP EPIDERMIS :Thay mi lin tc

Tc chm dn : Tr em > trng thnh > ngi ln tui

Chc nng sinh l : Tr em < trng thnh > ngi ln tui

CHNG 1 HBK Tp HCM - 2007

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Mu da

Da en

Da vng

Da trng

Da nu

Tu thuc vo:

-Chng tc

-Kh hu

-Cch thc sinh hot n ung

Thnh phn melanin trong t bo da

T bo melanocystes : dermis, lp pigment : epidermis

V P ???


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Mu da

Cc mu chnh

1. Melanin :Sc t mu nu (quyt nh chnh)

2. Melanoid :Sc t nu tng t melanin

3. Carotene :Sc t vng (Lp Subcutaneous fat)

4. Haemoglobin v Oxyhaemoglobin: Sc t - hng (da

mt, da tr em)

Lp epidermis - dermis

Mao qun nm gn b mt da

Melanocyst

Enzyme tyrosine

DOPA

(dihydroxyphenylalanine)

Melanin

MelanoidTyrosine


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Cu to vai tr ca melanin

Bo v:

- Hp thu tia cc tm (3000 3900Ao)

Mu da bin i theo vng kh hu

Tng hp Viatmine D:Xc tc bi nh

sng (qu trnh quang ho)

Nhiu melaninthiu ht vitamin D

Nhiu melaninBo v tt hn

Lm trng da ??? Lm sng da ???


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Cc vn lin quan n da

1. Lo ho

Qu trnh thay th chm li, gim n hi, th, t nc.

2. Mn

3. D ng

CHNG 1 HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

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Ln da p

Ln da p :

- Mu da ?????

- Sc thi ln da ?????

LN DA KHO

Cch thc c ln da kho

- Ch dinh dng

- Chm sc da hp l


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Cc yu cu v chm sc da

Ln da kho:

- Mu ng u, mn

- Cha lng nc, mt

- Khng b cc ri lon lin quan n da

Sn phm :

- Lm sch da

- Gi m cho da

- Bo v da

- Trang im


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Cc sn phm m phm cho da

Bath soaps and detergents

Feminine hygiene deodorants

Deodorants (underarm)

Douches

Personal Cleanliness

Bath preparations

Bath capsules

Bath oils, tablets and salts

Bubble baths

Other bath preparations


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p

32

Cc sn phm m phm cho da

Other skincare preparationsSuntan preparations

Indoor tanning preparationsSuntan gels, creams and liquids

Other suntan preparations

Skincare Preparations (Creams, Lotions, Powders and Prays)Body and hand (excluding shaving preparations)

Cleansing (cold creams, cleaning lotions, liquids and pads)

Depilatories

Foot powders and sprays

NightPaste mask (mud packs)

Skin fresheners

Face and neck (excluding shaving preparations)


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p

33

Eye makeup preparationsEyebrow pencil

Eye shadow

Eyeliner

Mascara

Eye lotion

Eye makeup remover

Other eye makeup preparations

Makeup Preparation (Not Eye)Blushers (all types)

Makeup base

Pace powdersMakeup fixers

Foundations

Rouges

Lipstick

Leg and body paints


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p

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Linh tinh v da

-Da tr em : khong 2500cm2

-Da ngi ln : 18,000 cm2

- Chim khong 6% trng lng c th (3.6 kg ngi nng 60 kg) (+ cht bo:16%)

- Trn 1 cm2da c

- 10 nang tc v tuyn tit cht nhn

- 100 tuyn m hi

- 0.5 m mch mu

- 2 m dy thn kinh vi 3000 im tip xc (200: au, 25 p sut, 2: lnh, 12nng).


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p

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MI


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p

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Phan loai Da MoiTuyen nhn Co Khong

Lp sng Day Rat mong

Thanh phan gi am t

nhien

Nhieu

0.76-1.27mol/mg

t

0.12mol/mg

Toc o bay hi ncCham

11-19g/mm2 hr

Nhanh

78g/mm2 hr

Lng H2O

Nhieu

30-39 s

t

16-25 s

C IM CU TO

D b kh mi, trc


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NHU CU M PHM

-Son gi m,

-Son bng,

-Son mu,

-Bt ch k mi,


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ng vt: Bao ph bn ngoi c th, c tc dng bo v v iu ho nhit

TC

Con ngi : Tc ch ng vai tr bii th c nhn

Hai im quan trng cn phi nm r:

1. Tc l cc t bo cht, khng th cu cha mt khi b hng

2. c im tc ph thuc vo gen : khng th thay th vnh vin cc c

im v tc ca bt c ai

Ch c gc ca si tc l cc t bo sng

Tc c to thnh ch yu t keratin (cystin)

Tc di khong 1cm/thng, di si tc ph thuc rt nhiu vo

gene

i tng : Tc trn da du


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CU TO NANG TC

Phn b khp c th / lng bntay, bn chn


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Cuticle

Cortex

Medulla

CU TO SI TC


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Thnh phn % w/w

Protein (keratin)Lipid

Protein bound sulfurSugars

AshMelaninZinc

864

4.51.0

0.54200ppm

CU TRC HO HC CA SI TC

Ch yu : Keratin (protein c to thnh t khong 20 amino acid khc nhau)


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-Lin kt hydro

-Lin kt mui

-Lin kt disulfua


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CO

N H . . . O C

N H

n H2O /1/

-n H2O /1'/

CO

N H . . . O H

H

. . .O

H

H . . . O C

N H

CO

N H

OH - /2/

-H+ /2'/

NH + C - O

O

CH-CH2-S-S-CH

2-CH + RSH2

/3/CH-CH

2-SH + HS-CH2-CH

+ R - S - S - R

Lin kt hydro

Lin kt mui

Lin kt disulphide


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Qu trnh un

tc, dui tc

Cystine : Rt bn,10.000 nm chaphn hu


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bn ca tc


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CUTICLE

8 -10 lp

-Quyt nh bng ca tc

-Chu tc dng ca cc sn

phm m phm


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CUTICLE

B mt bt u b tn thng


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3-7 years.

90% of hairs

3-4 weeks

1% of hairs

100 days.

9% of hairs.

CHU K PHT TRIN CA SI TC


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CHU K PHT TRIN CA SI TC

http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_1/az/follicledevelopment2.gif

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CHIU DI SI TC


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Asian(straight)

Caucasian(wavy-curly)

African

(very curly)

C IM SI TC


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Asian Caucasian AfricanThickness Coarse Fine Coarse

Curvature Straight towavy

Straight tocurly

Wavy to woolly

Cross-sectional shape Nearly round toslightly oval

Nearly roundto slightly oval

Slightly oval toelliptical

Color Dark brown tobrown black

Blonde toBlack

Brown-black toblack

Average diameter(microns - um)

95 70 90

Est. of population(micronsum)

55120 30 - 100 45120

Ellipticity 1.25 1.4 1.9

C IM SI TC

CHNG 1

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Asian Caucasian African

C IM SI TC

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C IM SI TC

Nhng dng cu trc c bit him gc ca tc

Tc c t Tc t (ri)

CHNG 1

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Pigment :Cc phn t hnh ellips: melanin granules

di khong 0.6um trong t bo cortical cells. Mu

tc ph thuc :S lng, kch thc cc melanin

granules

2 loi pigment: eumelanin v phaeomelanin.

Eumelanin :en & nu , rt bn, b oxi ho bi H2O2

Phaeomelanin :Vng v nu, tan trong kim

MU TC

Keratine : KHNG MU

CHNG 1

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Tc en Tc vng Tc

MU TC

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Sc kho,ch dinh

dng

Nhum, ty, sy, unnng

UV, kh bi, nhim, khngkh kh

Nc, clo, pH

Gi, chi, ct tc

YU T NH HNG N TC

CHNG 1

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Ch ngn, tc xp, gy, mt lp v bnngoi

-Gim m

- Mt kh nng thm thu=> Tc kh

- Cng

- Mu khng bng

- Dn

HU QU

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HU QU

Hnh phng i cc b mt b h hi ca tc

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MT S BNH V DA U

- GuB gu kh :vy xm hay mu nhtGu tht s :nm men Pityrosporum: P.ovale v P.orculare

- Vim da tit b :Thng gp da u tit nhiu nhn, da b nga v c t vynhim v nm Pityrosporum.

- Vim nang lng: C 2 trng hpBnh va do d ng va do nhim trng, ni ln nhng cc sn nh, ng t vyhoc rn ra mt t nc dch rt nga.Bnh do nhim nm, thng gp l vi nm Trichophyton, trn da u c nhngmng da . Rt nga.

- sng :da u thng ng nhiu lp vy dy, dnh.

- Vy nn : trn u c mng da , ng nhiu lp vy, c bit vy thng rt ra saumt m ng.- Tc gi : nga da u km theo nga ton thn, gy n khi try da trc vy.- Ch da u :k sinh trng bm trn da u ht mu.- Thn kinh: nga gi to ,gy u v tc trong thi gian ngn.

CHNG 1

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MI TC P

Mu tc ??

Kiu dng ??

-Chc kho

-Bng

-Mu sc ng u

-Sun, mt

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CHM SC TC

Hair preparations (Non coloring)

Hair conditioners Shampoos (non coloring)

Hair sprays (aerosol fixatives) Tonics, dressing and other hair grooming aids

Hairs straighter Wave sets

Permanent waves Rinses (non coloring)

Other hair preparations

Hair Coloring Preparations

Hair bleaches Other hair preparations

Hair dye and colors Hair lighteners with color

Hair tints Hair rinses (coloring)

Hair shampoos (coloring) Hair color sprays (aerosol)

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S lng si tc trn u = 100,000

Mt tc trn u = 250400 si /cm2

Thi gian sng trung bnh = 1000ngy

Tc pht trin trung bnh = 1cm/thng S lng tc rng mi ngy = 100

Chiu di tc pht trin trong 1 nm = 13 km / nm

Khi lng tc tng ln mi nm = 62 g /nm

Tc pht trin ca t bo = mi 7 gi

bn ko ca si tc = 70 +/- 16g

LINH TINH V TC

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RNG

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LP MEN

Thnh phn:

Hp cht v c 96%

Nc 2-3%

Hp cht hu c

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Tuyn nc bt

-H tr tuyn ho thc n

-H tr cho qu trnh nut thc n bng cch thay i cu trc thc n

-Gi m v bi tri khoang ming, mi

-Lm sch b mt rng v ming khi

-Thi cc cht khng cn thit ra khi c th

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Qua trnh tao mang bam tren

rang

Be mat men rang

Mang mong 1-3mm (pellice)

Mang day hn (plaque ba)

Khoi cng: gia rang & li hoac tren ranh rang (calculus cao)

Thc an + VSV

Rang sau

VSV

Tao acid Tao oc to Tao cac hp chat

thiol

Pha huy men, nga, tuy

Sau rang

Noi hat mu chan rang,

chay mau, nu xng

Nha chu

Hoi mieng

CC BNH RNG MING

Qu trnh hnh thnh

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NHU CU M PHM

Kem nh rng

Bn chi nh rng

Nc sc ming

Lm sch b mtmen rng

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MNG

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NHU CU M PHM

Cc loi sn mng tay : Lp sn lt, sn mu, nc ty snmng tay

My Pham_phan 1.1

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