Morocco

Text by David Fisher Photographs by Lionel Maumary

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Morocco was a very popular spring destination for North European birdwatchers. In recent years, its

popularity has been eclipsed somewhat by that of Israel. While the two have many species in common, Morocco holds a good number that Israel does not, some of which are Northwest African endemics and others isolated populations of sub-Saharan species. Perhaps surprisingly, a comprehensive two-week trip to Morocco will produce an even larger list of species than a similar trip to Israel. The aim of this article is to re­awaken interest in Morocco, particularly in the spring.

Lying at the southwestern corner of the Western Palearctic and forming the northwest corner of Africa, Morocco's avifauna reveals origins in both faunal zones. Such species as Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates, Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax, Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus, African Marsh Owl Asio capensis, Brown-throated Sand Martin Riparia paludieola and Black-headed Bush Shrike Tchagra senegala are all of African origin, and most are widely distributed south of the Sahara. In addition, various African vagrants, such as Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis, Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna tricolor and Allen's Gallinule Porphymla alleni, have been found in Morocco, and doubtless more will be discovered in years to come.

Owing to the wide altitudinal variation and a number of fairly isolated mountain ranges, a few Northwest African endemics have evolved, most of which can be found in Morocco. Even common Western Palearctic species, such as the Blue Tit Parus caeruleus and the Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs, are represented by attractive and distinctive races that enliven each day's birdwatching. Some of the forms present are clearly still evolving into separate species, an example of which might be Levaillant's Green Woodpecker Picus vaillantii, whose taxonomic status has varied from species to subspecies and back again in recent years. Fortunately, certain birds have undoubtedly gone all the way, and these include such delightful species as Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri and

[Brit. BUsM: 371-378, September 1991] 3 7 1

372 Morocco

190. Thekla Lark Galerida tkeklae, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

Tristram's Warbler Sylvia deserticola (plates 197-199). In the breeding season, Tristram's Warbler is to be found on the scrub-covered slopes of the Atlas Mountains, mostly above 1,000 m. In the autumn, it moves down to lower altitudes, mainly to the south, and can be found in low scrub in semi-desert areas on the Saharan fringe. Superficially like a Dartford Warbler S. undata, it is also reminiscent of a Whitethroat S. communis, perhaps owing to its chestnut-edged wing feathers. Another attractive North African endemic is the Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara (plate 201). While this species' range stretches as far east as western Egypt, Morocco is perhaps the easiest place to see it.

One of the most striking features of Morocco's avifauna is the diversity of larks: no fewer than 14 species breed in Morocco. Many of these do not occur in Europe, being North African and Middle Eastern specialities. The Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti is fond of rocky hillsides and slopes, while its relative, the Bar-tailed Desert Lark A. cincturus, prefers flat sandy desert. The two are not nearly so close in appearance as most field-guide illustrations would have us believe, the former being stocky and almost thrush-like, with a heavy bill, while the latter is much more like a small, lightly built lark. The aptly named Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes (plates 200 & 203) can be found in the desert fringes in southern Morocco, where its high-pitched, ascending whistle can be heard over considerable distances. The song is given just prior to a spectacular display flight, in which the male hurls himself vertically into the air, becoming momentar­ily a twisting ball of black-and-white feathers (see plate 202). Memories of cool early morning in the desert, listening to the songs of Hoopoe Larks and Bar-tailed Desert Larks, are very much part of the legacy of a spring trip to Morocco.

Another early-morning singer is Dupont's Lark Chersophilus duponti—so early in fact, that it often gives up by dawn. Many a birder has listened to

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191. Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

192 & 193. Temminck 's Horned Lark Eremophila bilopha, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

[The inclusion of plates 191-201 in colour has been subsidised by a donation from Carl Zeiss—Germany]

374 Morocco

194-196. Thick-billed Lark Rhamphocoris clotbey, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

197-199. Male Tr i s t r am ' s Warbler Sylvia deserticola, M o r o c c o , Apr i l 1990 (Lionel

Maumary)

200. Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

201. Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara, Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumary)

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202 & 203. Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes in flight (below) and in songflight (right),

Morocco, April 1990 (Lionel Maumaty)

its song, which recalls that of the Greenfinch Carduelis chloris, just prior to day-break, then only to spend frustrating hours trying to locate one on the ground. Another unique lark is the Thick-billed Lark Rhamphocoris cbtbey, accorded a genus of its own. A bird of stony deserts, it ranges widely south . and east of the Atlas Mountains. Plates 194-196 show its massive bill, typical of a seed-cracker, though apparently it swallows most of the seeds it eats whole and does not have the strength that the bill size suggests.

Another North African speciality is the Thekla Lark Galerida theklae (plate 190). This species is so similar to its close relative, the Crested Lark G. cristata, that many birders visiting Morocco end up putting down the numerous larks in this genus that they see each day as 'Creklas'. With care, however, they can be told apart, the best features being the size and shape of the bill and the heaviness of the black markings on the breast.

The Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris is another species represented by a distinctive subspecies (plate 191). Those that breed in the High Atlas

378 Morocco

Mountains have a pinky-brown crown and nape that sets them apart from the more familiar North European Shore Larks that we see in Britain. In the desert areas to the south, the Temminck's Horned Lark E. bikpha is of even more striking appearance. Its pale sandy upperparts contrast strongly with its black facial pattern, and the length of its black 'horns' has to be seen to be believed (plates 192 & 193).

There is much more to Morocco than just the larks of course. It is a country of ever-changing scenery, with a wider range of habitats than any other Western Palearctic country. From the sand dunes of Merzouga, with their much-sought-after Desert Sparrows Passer simplex, to the alpine peaks of the High Atlas, home to Alpine Choughs Pyrrhocorax graculus and Crimson-winged Finches Rhodopechys sanguinea, the backdrop to one's birding is always spectacular. Morocco is a country well worth exploring and a very different place from anywhere else in our avifaunal region.

David Fisher, 56 Western Way, Sandy, Bedfordshire SG19 1DU Lionel Maumary, Grand'Rue 8, CH-1095 Lutry, Switzerland

This article by David Fisher was inspired by Lionel Maumary's superb photographs. A special 'BB'-SUNBIRD trip to Morocco, led by Bryan Bland and Peter Lansdown, is planned for 15th-30th April 1992 (Brit. Birds 84: 345); for further details write or phone to David Fisher/Jennifer Thomas at SUNBIRD* PO Box 76, Sandy, Bedfordshire SG19 IDF; phone Sandy (0767) 682969. For anyone planning to go birdwatching in Morocco, we recommend Bergier & Bergier (1990), A Birdwatchers' Guide to Morocco, available through British BirdShop (see pages xix & xx). EDS