MolasAuthentic Cuna Indian

Designs from Panama

San Blas Islands

La Historia

• The Kuna or Cuna (Dule) have a population of around 47,000 members.

• Migrated from the Darien region of Panamá to the San Blas Islands on the Atlantic coast in the mid nineteenth century.

• In 1513, the Cuna fought the Spaniards for control of the mainland to no avail.

• 1938, after a long struggle, the Comarca of San Blas was recognized by the Panamanian government

The Mola

• Related to body painting practiced in past

and present.

• 18th Century- French arrived and the

Kunas began decorating the hemline of

skirts with designs and symbols.

• Now the clothing has returned the

symbolic designs to their way of life.

The Cuna People• Occupy fifty or more of the 350 odd islands of the 4

San Blas islands.

• Off the Atlantic coast of the Isthmus of Panama

• Physical appearance: small in stature, light to medium brown coloration, very dark hair and eyes. Worlds highest percent of albinos.

The Women

• Center of Cuna life

• “When a young man marries, he must live with

his wife in the house of his mother-in-law.

• Property is passed to children by their mothers.”

• Dress in colorful clothing (look like tropical birds)

Mola Cuna life Stories and Art Maricel E. Presilla

Continued..

• Famous for their colorful blouses called

molas.

• Free time = sewing a mola

• Always find time to work on a mola

-Delfino Daives

<<For us, the Cuna, the earth is the mother.

The mountain is the mother, our mother.

Nature, the forest- as well as the earth- is

a woman, not a man. The mother loves

us, she helps us cultivate sugarcane,

cacoa, and all kinds of fruits. And then

comes the mother who takes care of us in

the home. She also gives us good

advice.>>

Making a Mola

• Layer rectangles of brightly colored cotton cloth

of good quality

• Basted together and then the design is

prepared. baste 1 (b st) tr.v. bast·ed, bast·ing, bastes

To sew loosely with large running stitches so as to hold together temporarily

• Top layer

– Usually bright red, hot orange or for contrast, black

fabric.

– Once design on top layer, the design is cut out

through the layers.

Making a Mola

• The design emerges as the

process of cutting continues

• Experienced mola-makers do

this without penciled outlines

of design.

• Cut edges are folded under

and finished with hidden

stitches.

• The procedure of cutting away

is called reverse appliqué,

and is unique to mola craft.

The making of a mola…

• If they want a color other than that in the

layers, the design is cut out and the fabric

is slipped through the opening and then

the design is sewn down.

• Using only hand needlework, generally it

takes two months to complete a single

panel

While making the first panel..

• The women also keep up with their daily schedules, chores while making the molas.

• In addition, they are also making the mate to the first panel and several others that will become part of other blouses.

Usos

• Outside of San Blas Islands framed

and displayed on walls.

• Cuna women, they are important part

of their dress.

When do they start learning…

• Every Cuna girl begins to learn the art of needlework at the age of six or seven

• By the time a girl reaches marriageable age they will have assembled a score or more that are her finest

Young Cuna girls

• Considered special by their families

• Lavished with gifts and attention

• They are the ones to bring money and

respect to the families by making molas.

Mola Designs

• Fall loosely within defined categories• Traditional subjects:

– Religion– Mythology– Superstitions– Cuna home life– Extensive use of natural and abstract birds and animal

designs– Snakes, lizards, insects, fish, and other marine life– Geometric shapes, flowers, and mazes– Some display political slogans, advertising layouts and

trademarks

• Current molas posses the general appearance and colors of traditional ones – but there is the influence of modern world

A good mola has…

• Smooth, even, narrow lines

• A central design or primary motif that

stands out from the background

• Symmetry: visual balance within the panel

• Number of fabric layers

• Intricate cutouts, such as curves, zigzags

or tiny squares

• http://www.crossroadstrade.com/mols.php

Color Guide

• Most frequently used:

– First group are used almost exclusively for

topmost layer

• Scarlet (Cadmium Red light)

• Carmine (or Alizarine Crimson)

• Orange

• Black

Color Guide– Colors for second,

third, and other layers as well as other parts.

• Lemon Yellow

• Cadmium Yellow Medium

• Yellow Ochre

• Orange

• Cadmium Red Light

• Alizarine Crimson

• Cerise

• Purple

• Violet

• Green

• Emerald Green

• Olive Green

• Prussian Blue

• Black

• White

http://www.galenfrysinger.com/mola_panama.htm