Micro Magic StudiosFire simulation circuit. Model CFC1003Instructions for use.

Thank you for buying my fire simulation circuit, I hope that you enjoy it.The circuit is provided with a clip for a standard 9 Volt battery, an alkaline battery will provide dozens of hours of operation at the low setting and a very long time at the high setting.Adjustment of the output can be achieved by inserting a small + head jeweler’s screwdriver through the hole in the case and carefully feeling for the screw adjustment. (FIG. 1)The screw adjuster is at full output when turned completely counter clockwise and is minimum output when turned fully clockwise. Do not try and over adjust the circuit, a gentle hand is required.For those not wishing to make adjustments, please note that the output of the circuit is set to a mid-point when I build them, this setting is suitable for most applications.

Turning the output down to just a flicker is perfect for a small campfire; turned up to full it creates a house on fire effect. In all cases try and diffuse the light output by using cellophane, vellum, or paper.

USAGE: The best effect is created when the LEDs are mounted for indirect viewing, in the case of our mini scene kits this involves mounting the LEDs underneath the scene. (FIG 2.) This kind of mounting is recommended for any type of small fire, for larger fires experiment for yourself. If you have any good ideas, please share them with me and I’ll let everyone who buys one know as well.If a power switch is required to be installed, this can be done easily by splicing a single pole throw switch into the red lead from the battery. Hint: Try mounting the LEDs in the bottom of a piece of 5mm ID brass tubing that is about 14mm high, this will be your oil barrel. It will scale out in HO to approx 18” diameter and 48” in height, this is similar to a large chemical barrel and what is often seen in parks and public places as a garbage can. You might have to file or sand the sides of the LEDs to produce a flat spot so they fit nicely, do not take off too much of the LED as you don’t want to damage it. Glue the tubing to the layout, with the LEDs shining up; it makes for a great building site fire or hobo barbecue.Bang and dent the brass tube with pliers and then force back into rough round shape, paint it black and add a wash of rust and you’ll have yourself a very convincing oil drum fire. Add a wisp of fibers from the end of an ear bud to simulate smoke. The LEDs will shine through the wisp of fibers and create a truly realistic effect. (FIG 3)Also try crumpling some old fashioned cellophane (candy wrapper) and poking it in the hole above the LEDs, a few wisps of Q-tip fiber and as one of my customers said, “You got it”.A new idea that I have found very effective is to mount the LEDs facing each other lens to lens by pushing into a piece of 2mm clear vinyl tubing about 7mm in length or simply using sticky tape to hold them together, it blends the light perfectly and is the best option for smaller fires.For greatest run time, use Duracell Pro series alkaline batteries or think about using a simple 5.5 to 12.0 Volt AC or DC power supply.Micro Magic Studios 905 527 5759 Hamilton Ontario L8N1W5 CANADAContact: daymyron@cogeco.ca for more usage tips.Great for: CAMP FIRES, HOUSE FIREPLACE SIMULATION IN ANY SCALE, BLACKSMITH SHOP FURNACE, WALTHERS STEEL WORKS BLAST FURNACE, MOLTEN STEEL TORPEDO CAR, FIRE PIT OF ANY G SCALE STEAMER, A FARMER’S FIELD BURN LINE, A BBQ PIT IN ANY SCALE OR ANY OTHER SITUATION WHERE A REALISTIC FIRE MUST BE MODELLED.ASK ABOUT THE MICRO MAGIC HOBO CAMP, STONE BBQ PIT OR BLACKSMITH’S FORGE ALL ARE AVAILABLE TO ENHANCE ANY HO LAYOUT AND ARE DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THE SIMULATION CIRCUIT.