Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish...
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Micro Fibres Processing Slide 2 Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish 3 Short Process Heat Set Scour Dye/Print Wash Finish There are a number of processing options for Microfibres, depending on the desired end result and material. 4 Yarn Wind Scour Dye Wash Oil / Finish Slide 3 Relaxation is the process of shrinkage development, at low fabric tension. Relaxation = Hot + Wet Benefits of Relaxation Reduces potential distortion or deformation of the fabric from residual uneven tension. (eg : slits, islands, uneven puckering ) Pre-shrinks the goods ready for correct setting. Required for Desizing woven goods before Heat Set. RELAXATION 1 Shrinkage occurs at lower temperatures than standard fibres. Slide 4 Relaxation Methods for Microfibres Hot wash or scour. Say ~ 90 0 C. This can be coupled with a scouring step. Hot solvent scour (continuous washer). Steaming Steam TableGives good relaxation. Steam Frame Front of Stenter ( Steaming and drying in a stenter should be a separate step before Heat Setting. ) Combined (Single Pass) Steam Relaxing and Heat Set gives a less uniform result compared with two separate steps. RELAXATION 2 Slide 5 The best wet processing machines for Microfibres are : Low or controlled tension, - short distance to lift roll/winch (a small rise ). - lots of water pumping action to support. Good liquor exchange but low turbulence. ADD TANK SOFT - STREAM SV Cool to 50 C before drop ! Thies Soft-Stream Hisaka Cut-F Brazolli Overflow Longclose Ventura Rapide MACHINES 1 Slide 6 MACHINES 2 Low liquor ratio machines will work on viscose blends, or on heavier fabrics : say above 100 gm/m. Then Airflow Thies Airstream or Rotostream These machines may not work so well on high twist and high density but lightweight fabrics. Problems => Creasing, Shrinkage, Abrasion, Air entrapment. NEARFIL FAC To eliminate air entrapment. Slide 7 NEARFIL FAC Developed for Deaerating yarn packages after loading. Excellent wetting efficiency. Rapid bubble breakage. Alkali stable. Suitable for : Yarn preparation Batch dyeing of light synthetics. DEAERATION 1 Slide 8 Some fabrics may be prepared by bad dwell methods, but it is normal to dye polyester microfibre in Jets. MACHINES 3 x Useful machines for microfibre relaxation are : Continuous Drum Scour machines. They give : Good widthwise relaxation. Controlled lengthwise relaxation. Good scouring of fibre. Splitting of conjugates. Slide 9 The best dry processing machines for Microfibres are : Electric heated, to minimise fumes. (Critical for Nylon) Steaming capacity to facilitate relaxation. Overfeed capacity to facilitate optimum body and fullness properties. Steam Frame Pad Frame MACHINES 4 Slide 10 Process Overview 2 Normal Long Process Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish or Solvent scour or jet scour to relax. Rapid relax with Steam Frame or Table, then Set. Scour after Setting. Weight Reduce for light silk styles. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set. x Slide 11 Process Overview 3.1 Textured 1 Textured fabrics : are produced by blending filaments with different shrinkage. MICROPILE MICROLOOPS Process Conditions : elimination of the Pre Heat Setting step allows full development of the micro loops of filament. Micromattique MX from Invista Yarn => 135 d / 200 f 175 filaments @ 0.5 dpf 34 filaments @ 2 dpf Maximum body and softness. Slide 12 Process Overview 3.2 Textured 2 Micropile effects may also be achieved by varying the structure of the fibre. Differential texturising and control of crystallinity can lead to differential shrinkage properties. Caution : Different fibre denier and types create shade variations. This may create desirable effects, or.. NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester. Invistas nylon 6.6 Tactel Ispira. Differential shrinkage filament, that gives texture and shading effects. Warp lines from unequally textured polyester filament can show after dyeing, and can be a difficult problem to solve. Slide 13 Process Overview 3.3 Textured 3 Different fibre denier and types can create various effects. - differential depth of shade. - differential sheen or lustre. - textured effects. The yarn can be used in fashion goods to create unusual colouration effects, with reasonable control. Invista Strata polyamide. This type of yarn is mixed in denier and shape leading to potential texture and colouration effects. Slide 14 Process Overview 3.4 Relax WR Dye/Print Wash Finish & Set Textured 4 Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax. Weight Reduce for light silk styles. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set. or x x Slide 15 Process Overview 3.5 Relax Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish & Set Textured 5 Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax. Pad, dry and emerise to loft the fabric. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set. or x Slide 16 Process Overview 4 Heat Set Scour Dye/Print Wash Finish Short Process Rapid relax with Steam Frame or Table, then Set. Scour for dyeing; Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set. or x Slide 17 Notes on Short Process Heat setting before scouring causes scorching, and the setting of oils into the fabric. As microfibres have a high loading of process aids, this can be a real problem. These aids may be difficult to remove Silicone oils, sizes, waxes, and mineral oil from knitters and looms. Process Overview 4.2 This problem is worst with : - very fine fibres due to the high oil content. - cotton blendsthe cotton yellows and absorbs oils from other fibres. Padding LUBRIFIL LAF can help. Slide 18 Preparation 1 Objectives of Preparation 1.Remove the high level of processing aids. (Spin finish, size, wax, processing oils etc..) Before or after heat setting ! 2.Control shrinkage in a gentle manner, as required. (Some fabrics require a relaxed shrinkage to develop full texture and body. ) Relaxation ! 3.Minimise fabric damage and creasing. (The shrinkage step can be prone to crease generation if not performed in a relaxed state.) Slide 19 NEARPON KR Developed for removing Silicone oils from Tactel Microfibre. Biodegradable Solvent Scouring Detergent Non flammable, safe, low odour, high activity. Softens and dissolves waxes, silicone, mineral oils, PVA, acrylic size, paint, etc... Ideal for elastomeric and microfibre. Recommended by Invista. Wets rapidly for padding and continuous operations. Low foam profile. Rinses clear for excellent absorbency. SCOURING 1 Slide 20 SCOURING 2 Invista recommendations for Tactel. NEARPON KR 2.0 - 4.0 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 - 1.0 g/l Soda Ash1.0 - 4.0 g/l. Heat to 90-95 0 C x 10 - 30 Slide 21 NEARCHEL TMC Scouring and Dyeing Sequesterant. For Scouring. Builds up the effectiveness of the detergent. Strong sequestering power to remove metals. Extraction of magnesium from Elastane. Gives high whiteness on bleaching. Stabilises bleach liquor when padding. For Dyeing. Stable to high temperatures. Minimises dye aggregation for best dispersion. SCOURING 3 Slide 22 Objectives of MICRO-FIBRE HEAT SETTING 1.Control shrinkage during wet processing. 2.Reduce creasing, abrasion and crows feet marks Contamination may be burnt into the fabric. The strength of setting may be measured by the Heat Set Efficiency (HSE). HEAT SETTING 1 HSE = Final Width After Dyeing=FW Heat Set WidthHSW Many microfibre fabrics are dyed without pre heat setting, to allow the full development of shrinkage during wet processing. Slide 23 HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS Silk styles185 o C x 30 Active sportswear180 o C x 30 or maybeNo pre setting. Textured stylesNo pre setting. Cationic Dye types165 o C x 30 HEAT SETTING 2 Follow your fibre suppliers recommendation !! Using a Steam Frame or Steam Table before setting, can give some relaxation effect without a wet process. This may be beneficial in shortening the process path. Slide 24 HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS Use of Auxiliary. HEAT SETTING 3 The Pad application of Auxiliaries can help reduce scorching and setting of oils during pre-heat setting. The use of a padding application before pre-set also allows some movement and relaxation of the fibres. Maximum Heat Set Efficiency is achieved. Slide 25 LUBRIFIL LAF A problem solver. An anionic multipurpose product. HEAT SETTING 4 Detergent Emulsifies and restrains oil from burning into fabric. Cleans during subsequent wet processing. Disperses particles including dyes, dust and fibres. Anticrease Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. ( Less return.) Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease. Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of micro-fibre fabrics. Slide 26 NAISTAT 1350 The POLYESTER friend. A fine dispersion of polymer. (Please refer to Finishing later.) HEAT SETTING 5 Detergent Scavenges and restrains oil from polyester and elastane. Cleans during scouring, after heat set. Anti-redeposition. Anticrease Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. ( Less return.) Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease. Ideal for Heat Setting polyester elastane and microfibre. Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film. Slide 27 NEARCAND LT 75 The Anti-scorch. A nylon substantive antioxidant. HEAT SETTING 6 NEARCAND LT 75 adsorbs rapidly onto nylon or amide- like substances to form an antioxidant film. This reduces the scorching of nylon and elastane polymers, and limits yellowing of softeners as high temperatures. Used for Heat Setting, Finishing or Wet Bleaching of nylon and nylon blends. Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and nylon fabric. Low dose required :1 to 3 % owf. Needs to be dispersed or dissolved hot before application. Slide 28 Some RECIPES.65% Pick up. HEAT SETTING 7 Nylon Polyester TC 25-30 g/l -- --