• Whe

re c

an y

ou c

limb

whe

n th

e N

atio

nal F

ores

ts a

re c

lose

d?

• Whe

re c

an y

ou c

limb

year

rou

nd (

mos

t of

the

tim

e)?

• Whe

re c

an y

ou t

ake

the

fam

ily t

o cl

imb?

• Whe

re c

an y

ou a

cces

s ov

er 7

0 le

ad a

nd t

op r

ope

rout

es a

s

wel

l as

boul

deri

ng w

ithin

5 m

inut

es o

f the

par

king

lot?

• Whe

re c

an y

ou g

o if

you

don’

t w

ant

to h

ike

up a

hill

to

get

to

the

clim

bs?

• Whe

re c

an y

ou c

limb

uniq

ue s

ands

tone

spo

rt r

oute

s an

d

crac

ks in

the

sou

thw

est?

• Ans

wer

on

fron

t co

ver.

Men

tmo

reC

limbi

ng G

uide

2006N

ew

M

ex

ic

oG

al

lu

p

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

3

Wel

com

e T

he lo

cal c

limbi

ng c

omm

unity

of G

allu

p, N

ew M

exic

o an

d its

su

rrou

ndin

g co

mm

uniti

es w

elco

me

you

to s

ome

of t

he m

ost

acce

ssib

le, p

lent

iful,

and

uniq

ue s

ands

tone

clim

bing

ava

ilabl

e ye

ar

roun

d. M

entm

ore

is a

spe

cial

pla

ce t

o th

e G

allu

p cl

imbi

ng c

om-

mun

ity, w

e ha

ve w

orke

d ha

rd t

o m

ake

grea

t cl

imbi

ng a

vaila

ble

here

, we

hope

you

enj

oy it

!

Tabl

e of

con

tent

sW

ELC

OM

E

3

GU

IDE T

OO

LS

5 IN

TRO

DU

CTI

ON

5W

HEN

TO C

LIM

B

5

HO

W TO

GET

TH

ERE

7

“O

ld Sid

e”EA

ST S

IDE

LEA

D R

OU

TES

10

SPO

RT H

OM

O W

ALL

11

JABB

A T

HE

HU

T

12

SLA

B W

ALL

12

-13

THE

SWA

LLO

W W

ALL

13-1

4TH

E BI

VY W

ALL

14

-15

BEN

NY

SILV

A W

ALL

14-1

5H

EALT

H W

ALL

15

-17

“New

Side

”TH

E C

ORR

IDO

R

19

-20

WA

LL O

F D

REA

MS

21

-22

THE

BALC

ON

Y A

REA

23TH

E O

PEN

FA

CE

WA

LL

23

AC

KNO

WLE

DG

EMEN

TS

25

CLI

MB

ING

IS

INH

ER

EN

TLY

DA

NG

ER

OU

S. S

EE

K

TR

AIN

ING

FR

OM

A P

RO

FESS

ION

AL

OR

GA

NIZ

AT

ION

OR

TA

KE

A C

LASS

TO

LE

AR

N

TH

E B

ASI

CS

OF

RO

PE

-CR

AFT

. T

HIS

GU

IDE

A

ND

TH

E R

OU

TE

RA

TIN

GS

CO

NT

AIN

ED

T

HE

RE

IN A

RE

FO

R R

EFE

RE

NC

E O

NLY

(T

HE

RE

M

AY

BE

MIS

TA

KE

S), R

AT

ING

S A

RE

SU

BJE

CT

IVE

, IF

YO

U D

ISA

GR

EE

TH

EN

SO

BE

IT.

Cov

er P

hoto

: Mar

vin o

n D

DM

Pho

to b

y: A

my

Bert

olac

cini

Back

Pho

to: S

cott

on a

Bou

lder

Pho

to b

y: A

my

Bert

olac

cini

4

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

Gal

lup,

NM

is lo

cate

d in

the

Nor

thw

est

corn

er o

f New

Mex

ico

righ

t on

Inte

r-st

ate

40. T

he M

entm

ore

Clim

bing

are

a is

loca

ted

just

off

of I-

40 if

exi

ting

at e

xit

16.

Gal

lup

is 2

hou

rs w

est

of A

lbuq

uerq

ue, N

M a

nd 2

-1/2

hou

rs e

ast

of F

lags

taff,

A

Z. F

or t

hose

peo

ple

mak

ing

trip

s to

the

wes

t fr

om t

he e

ast

(or

from

the

wes

t to

th

e ea

st)

it is

a g

reat

spo

t, co

nven

ient

ly lo

cate

d, t

o st

op a

nd s

pend

a d

ay o

r tw

o cl

imbi

ng/b

ould

erin

g.

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

5

Gui

de to

ols

Rou

te s

ymbo

ls:

x

bolt

xx

anch

or|

(b

lack

line

) is

the

rou

te u

p th

e ro

ck

A s

pace

is le

ft on

the

out

side

mar

gin

of e

very

pag

e to

mak

e no

tes

on t

he r

oute

s an

d fo

r an

y ot

her

uses

, pho

ne n

umbe

rs,

date

s ro

utes

clim

bed,

etc

.

Intr

oduc

tion

Hist

ory

of th

e M

entm

ore

clim

bing

are

a:

The

Men

tmor

e C

limbi

ng A

rea

was

dis

cove

red

in 1

997

by

a lo

cal c

limbe

r/bi

ker

whi

le d

rivi

ng t

o av

oid

a tr

ain

stop

ped

on

the

trac

ks. S

ince

tha

t fa

tefu

l day

, man

y lo

cal G

allu

p cl

imbe

rs

have

chi

pped

in t

o m

ake

this

loca

l cra

g a

grea

t pl

ace

to c

ome

and

pull

dow

n. A

cces

s w

as a

t fi r

st t

enuo

us b

ut t

he c

limbi

ng

com

mun

ity h

ad d

evel

oped

goo

d re

latio

ns w

ith t

he la

ndow

ner

and

acce

ss w

as g

rant

ed t

o th

e O

ld (

East

) Si

de. O

ver

the

year

s si

nce

1997

acc

ess

has

been

lega

l/ille

gal u

ntil

the

City

of G

allu

p pu

rcha

sed

the

land

to

keep

the

clim

bing

are

a op

en t

o cl

imbi

ng.

T

hrou

gh t

his

deve

lopm

ent

the

Cla

ssic

or

Old

Men

tmor

e ar

ea w

as c

reat

ed a

nd d

ocum

ente

d in

a g

uide

book

“T

HE

MEN

TM

OR

E C

LIM

BIN

G G

UID

E”.

Sinc

e 20

02 t

he a

rea

has

unde

rgon

e qu

ite a

face

lift.

T

he C

ity o

f Gal

lup

purc

hase

d th

e cl

imbi

ng a

rea

to h

elp

with

th

e qu

ality

of l

ife in

Gal

lup

in 2

004.

(I d

on’t

know

of a

ny c

ity t

o pu

rcha

se a

clim

bing

are

a in

jeop

ardy

, thi

s m

ay b

e a fi r

st.)

Sinc

e th

e pu

rcha

se, t

he c

ity h

as in

stal

led

a fe

nce,

par

king

lot

(whi

ch

man

y cl

imbe

rs r

efus

e to

use

), a

brid

ge t

o th

e O

ld s

ide,

and

an

info

rmat

iona

l kio

sk, h

opef

ully,

an

outh

ouse

is in

the

pla

ns.

T

he o

rigi

nal G

uide

book

pub

lishe

d by

Mic

hael

Lap

lant

e ha

d m

ore

rout

es li

sted

tha

n I a

m w

illin

g to

add

to

this

gui

debo

ok

beca

use

of t

he a

cces

s to

cer

tain

are

as t

hat

are

not

offi c

ially

par

t of

the

clim

bing

are

a.

The

effo

rts

by m

any

are

a st

rong

tes

tam

ent

to w

hat

a co

m-

mun

ity c

an d

o, r

ecla

imin

g a

dum

p an

d tu

rnin

g it

into

a r

ecre

-at

iona

l are

a. T

here

is s

till a

fair

am

ount

of w

ork

to b

e do

ne;

cont

inue

d cl

ean-

ups

(bre

akin

g th

e du

mpi

ng h

abit)

, elim

inat

ing

fi rin

g of

fi re

arm

s (n

ot p

erm

itted

in t

he r

ecre

atio

nal a

rea)

, an

d of

cou

rse

trai

l bui

ldin

g an

d ro

ute

deve

lopm

ent.

ON

E M

UST

BE

CA

REF

UL

WH

EN C

LIM

BIN

G A

ND

HIK

ING

IN

TH

E M

ENT

MO

RE

CLI

MBI

NG

AR

EA. W

HEN

LEA

RN

ING

TO

CLI

MB

SEEK

INST

RUC

TIO

N A

ND

GU

IDA

NC

E FR

OM

A

CER

TIF

IED

GU

IDE

OR

TA

KE

A C

LIM

BIN

G C

OU

RSE

AN

D

CLI

MB

SAFE

LY.

THE

CLI

MBI

NG

M

entm

ore

is a

sm

all g

roup

of s

ands

tone

out

crop

ping

s w

ith

frag

ile h

olds

. The

clim

bing

her

e is

fair

ly u

niqu

e, s

ome

rout

es

have

poc

kets

, slo

pers

, edg

es, a

nd fr

ictio

n ro

utes

. The

rou

tes

chan

ge a

s ho

lds

brea

k du

e to

man

y fa

ctor

s. T

his

rock

is N

OT

gr

anite

and

mus

t no

t be

clim

bed

like

it is

. The

clim

bing

mus

t be

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

2

5

Ack

now

ledg

emen

ts

Thi

s is

an

area

in w

hich

I ca

n th

ank

all t

he p

eopl

e (w

ell

alm

ost

all)

who

hel

ped

me

mak

e th

is h

appe

n. F

irst

, on

beha

lf of

th

e cl

imbe

rs w

ho u

se M

entm

ore

I wou

ld li

ke t

o th

ank

the

City

of

Gal

lup

and

the

May

or, B

ob R

oseb

roug

h; R

epre

sent

ativ

e Pa

tri-

cia

Lund

stro

m; a

nd A

dven

ture

Gal

lup

for

acqu

irin

g th

e cl

imbi

ng

area

and

kee

ping

Gal

lup

Clim

bing

ope

n to

clim

bing

. I w

ould

als

o lik

e to

tha

nk t

he E

spar

za fa

mily

for

reco

gniz

ing

the

impo

rtan

ceof

kee

ping

a r

esou

rce

like

this

ope

n to

the

com

mun

ity b

y br

eaki

ng u

p an

d se

lling

the

land

to

the

city

.

T

hank

s to

Joe

Wic

kert

for

disc

over

ing

thea

rea.

Mic

hael

La

Plan

te fo

r al

l the

wor

k on

the

old

sid

e an

d re

ally

pus

hing

ro

ute

deve

lopm

ent. T

he o

rigi

nal c

limbe

rs o

f Men

tmor

e, D

on T

, K

arl a

nd M

ary

Lynn

H.,

Pat

E., S

ue L

, Cra

ig L

., M

arvi

n S.

, Jim

S.

and

all t

he o

ther

s th

at I

have

forg

otte

n th

at k

ept

the

area

cle

an

and

forg

ed t

he fr

iend

ship

to

keep

acc

ess

open

.

A

big

tha

nks

to a

ll th

e or

gani

zatio

ns w

ho h

elpe

d w

ith t

he

clea

nups

and

don

atio

ns (

mon

etar

y, eq

uipm

ent

and

time)

. NIY

LP,

Juve

nile

Pro

batio

n, Y

CC

, Kok

opel

li A

dven

ture

s, R

ehob

oth

Chr

is-

tian

Scho

ol, S

tron

ghol

d C

hurc

h, N

ew M

exic

o M

ount

aine

erin

g C

lub,

and

the

man

y Vis

ta v

olun

teer

s.

Tha

nks

agai

n to

Mic

hael

LaP

lant

e w

ho w

rote

the

fi rs

t gu

ideb

ook,

whe

re I

got

a la

rge

amou

nt o

f inf

orm

atio

n fr

om, f

or

keep

ing

such

det

aile

d ro

ute

deve

lopm

ent

info

rmat

ion.

Que

s-tio

ns, c

omm

ents

or

issu

es a

bout

Men

tmor

e ca

n be

sen

t to

me

at h

arol

dhal

@ho

tmai

l.com

.

6

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

a st

yle

of fi

ness

e an

d bo

dy p

ositi

on r

athe

r th

an b

rute

pul

ling

—pl

ease

pre

serv

e th

e ro

utes

as

best

as

poss

ible

. So

me

rout

es

have

loos

e ho

lds

and

frag

ile fl

akes

tha

t ha

ve e

xist

ed fo

r ye

ars

and

will

con

tinue

to

surv

ive

if pu

lled

on c

orre

ctly.

All

rout

es

have

eas

ily a

cces

sibl

e to

p ro

pe a

ncho

rs a

nd p

lent

y of

rap

sta

-tio

ns fo

r ea

sy a

ncho

r se

t up

cle

anup

. Mos

t to

p ro

pes

requ

ire

shor

t (u

nder

4’)

slin

gs.

M

ost

of t

he r

oute

s he

re a

t M

entm

ore

are

mod

erat

e ro

utes

ra

ngin

g fr

om 5

.6 t

o 5.

12. T

he m

ajor

ity s

eem

to

fall

in t

he 5

.10

rang

e. NEW

RO

UTE

A

CTI

VITY

A s

pecifi c

issu

e ne

edin

g to

be

addr

esse

d is

est

ablis

hing

new

ro

utes

, and

how

to

avoi

d th

e ire

and

pai

n of

ang

erin

g lo

cals

with

hea

vy-h

ande

d bo

lting

app

roac

hes;

you’

ve b

een

war

ned!

• C

heck

with

loca

l act

ivis

ts b

efor

e dr

illin

g an

ythi

ng.

• Le

ave

the

East

Sid

e al

one,

it h

as e

noug

h bo

lts.

• If

bolti

ng, u

se o

nly

1/2

x 4

inch

sle

eve

bolts

or

bigg

er, n

o st

uds

or p

ound

-ins.

• D

on’t

silic

one

bolts

, it

HO

LDS

IN w

ater

, por

ous

rock

nee

ds

to d

ry o

ut•

If yo

u bo

lt, le

ave

the

mac

ho c

rap

at h

ome

and

adeq

uate

ly

prot

ect

the

rout

e•

If yo

u ch

ip o

r cr

owba

r to

sui

t a

rout

e to

you

r ta

ste,

tar

and

fe

athe

rs a

re in

you

r fu

ture

. (of

cou

rse

mak

e it

safe

, but

if y

ou

need

to

rem

ove

a ca

boos

e si

ze b

ould

er—

may

be t

he r

oute

do

esn’

t ne

ed t

o be

don

e).

WH

EN T

O C

LIM

B

O

ne o

f Gal

lup’

s ad

vant

ages

is t

he w

eath

er a

llow

s cl

imbe

rs

to h

it th

e st

one

just

abo

ut a

nytim

e of

the

yea

r. It

doe

s sn

ow

here

, but

a fe

w d

ays

late

r te

mpe

ratu

res

can

be in

to t

he s

ixtie

s an

d th

e sn

ow w

ill b

e go

ne-

in Ja

nuar

y. S

prin

gs a

re w

indy

, and

th

e m

onso

ons

of Ju

ly a

nd A

ugus

t ca

n le

ave

the

rock

too

wet

/da

mp

to c

limb

with

out

ruin

ing

the

rout

es-

time

bett

er s

uite

d to

hik

es a

nd b

ikes

. SIN

CE

TH

E RO

CK

IS A

PO

ROU

S SA

ND

-ST

ON

E—W

EAK

WH

EN W

ET—

PLE

ASE

LET

TH

E RO

CK

D

RY O

UT

FO

R A

DAY

OR

TW

O A

FTER

A G

OO

D R

AIN

.

The

New

Sid

e is

a g

ood

sum

mer

cra

g, in

the

sha

de, u

ntil

abou

t 2:

00pm

. The

Old

Sid

e is

a g

reat

win

ter

crag

get

ting

all

day

sun

som

ewhe

re o

n th

e w

all,

alth

ough

sha

de c

an b

e fo

und

in

earl

y m

orni

ng a

nd e

veni

ng.

AU

THO

R N

OTE

S:• T

ake

all y

our

tras

h (a

nd o

ther

’s) w

hen

you

leav

e.•

Park

onl

y in

the

par

king

lot

built

and

pro

vide

d by

the

City

of

Gal

lup.

It on

ly in

crea

ses

the

appr

oach

tim

e by

tw

o m

inut

es o

r so

.•

Stic

k to

est

ablis

hed

trai

ls• W

ait

24 h

ours

to

clim

b af

ter

it ha

s ra

ined

, the

roc

k is

frag

ile

afte

r be

ing

wet

ted.

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

7

Exiti

ng 1

-40

at e

xit

16 h

ead

wes

t on

Rou

te 6

6 pa

st T

&A

Tra

vel P

laza

. The

fi rs

t ro

ad o

n th

e ri

ght

is M

entm

ore

Roa

d (fo

llow

sig

ns)

head

dow

n th

is r

oad

acro

ss

the

railr

oad

trac

ks.

Kee

p he

adin

g N

orth

acr

oss

the

brid

ge a

nd t

hen

take

a le

ft

on t

he p

aved

roa

d. G

o up

a h

ill a

nd d

own

a hi

ll, at

the

bas

e of

the

hill

is a

sha

rp r

ight

tu

rn, g

o st

raig

ht t

hrou

ght

the

fenc

e on

to a

di

rt r

oad

head

ing

to t

he p

arki

ng lo

t. P

leas

e pa

rk in

the

pro

vide

d pa

rkin

g lo

t.

• If

you

vand

aliz

e th

e ro

ck w

e w

ill k

ick

your

ass

!•

Plea

se d

o no

t ad

d to

the

exi

stin

g ro

ck a

rt.

Thi

s gu

ide

is a

n at

tem

pt t

o be

tter

allo

w v

ertic

al a

dven

ture

rs

acce

ss t

o th

e lo

cal c

liffs

and

sup

erb

spor

t/tr

ad r

oute

s. “O

wne

r-sh

ip”

of t

hese

cra

gs is

and

sho

uld

be w

ith lo

cal c

limbe

rs, w

ho

have

inve

sted

the

ir t

ime

and

effo

rt t

o m

ake

it a

fun

, “sa

fe”

clim

bing

exp

erie

nce.

Any

body

who

wan

ts t

o co

ntri

bute

to

the

crag

’s de

velo

pmen

t is

wel

com

e, b

ut c

heck

with

a lo

cal F

IRST

!D

ISC

LAIM

ER: C

LIM

BIN

G C

AN

BE

DA

NG

ERO

US,

IF Y

OU

C

HO

OSE

TO

CLI

MB,

TA

KE

PER

SON

AL

RES

PON

SIBI

LIT

Y

FOR

YO

UR

AC

TIO

NS.

GET

TR

AIN

ING

IN R

OPE

CR

AFT

FR

OM

A T

RA

INED

PRO

FESS

ION

AL

SUC

H A

S KO

KOPE

LLI

AD

VEN

TU

RES

- 5

05-8

70-0

727.

How

to g

et th

ere

exit

16

Old

(eas

t) Si

de

arro

yo

New

Sid

e

park

ing

lot

Prog

ram

Wall

The

Prog

ram

Wall

co

ntain

s rou

tes

espe

cially

goo

d fo

r be

ginne

rs to

the

spor

t. It

is us

ed b

y lo

cal g

uide

s to

hel

p st

uden

ts le

arn

the

clim

bing

art

s.

I-40

Hw

y 66

County Road 1/Mentmore Road

new

si

de

Npark

ing

lot

old

side

2

4

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

Aut

hors

:T

he b

ulk

of t

he in

form

atio

n fo

r th

is b

ook

was

gra

tefu

lly a

quire

d fr

om M

ich

ael

LaP

lan

te’s

fi rs

t an

d se

cond

edi

tions

of

Men

tmor

e Cl

imbi

ng M

ecca

whi

ch w

as t

he fi

rst

guid

eboo

k fo

r th

e ar

ea.

Sco

tt H

all

ida

y, t

he s

elf a

ppoi

nted

car

etak

er o

f men

tmor

e,

cont

ribu

ted

rout

e in

form

atio

n fo

r m

uch

of t

he ‘n

ew s

ide’

ro

utes

and

ove

rsaw

the

cre

atio

n of

thi

s ne

w e

ditio

n.C

raig

Ro

bin

son

sho

t a

lot

of p

hoto

s fo

r th

is n

ew e

ditio

n an

d de

sign

ed it

s lo

ok.

Jim S

mith

, ow

ner

of

Kok

opel

li A

dven

-tu

res,

clim

bing

‘Loo

k-in

g fo

r D

anie

l’ O

ld S

ide.

Ph

oto:

Sc

ott

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

2

3

The

Balco

ny19

. EG

O T

ER

RO

RIS

TS

– 5

.9.

Face

clim

b up

the

left

side

of

the

arê

te in

the

Bal

cony

are

a. 7

bol

ts –

spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

20. 1

0 ‘T

IL 8

– 5

.9.

Face

clim

b up

the

rig

ht s

ide

of t

he a

rête

of

the

pre

viou

s ro

ute.

Ste

ep b

egin

ning

mov

es o

n bi

g ho

lds

lead

s to

5.8

cru

isin

g.

7 bo

lts –

Spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

21. P

UR

CH

AS

E A

GR

EE

ME

NT

– 5

.8.

Easy

face

clim

bing

ju

st r

ight

of t

he “

10 ‘t

il 8”

. Acc

ess

rout

e fr

om t

he b

alco

ny.

Nic

e fa

ce c

limbi

ng o

n bi

g ho

lds

until

…

5 b

olts

– s

port

. FA

S.H

.22

. BE

TT

Y’S

FR

IEN

D –

5.9

. T

hin

face

clim

bing

just

left

of

the

blac

k w

ater

str

eak.

– 3

bol

ts –

spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

23. B

ET

TY

’S R

ED

EM

PT

ION

– 5

.8.

Bett

y go

t of

f the

be

lay

seat

and

est

ablis

hed

this

rou

te.

Exce

llent

face

clim

bing

ju

st t

o th

e ri

ght

of t

he b

lack

str

eak.

5 b

olts

– s

port

. FA

S.H

.24

. CR

OW

’S F

EE

T –

5.1

0B. L

ocat

ed b

etw

een

the

Balc

ony

area

and

the

Ope

n Fa

ce W

all i

s a

larg

e ro

of. T

his

clim

b is

just

to

the

rig

ht o

f thi

s la

rge

roof

. N

ice

face

clim

bing

lead

ing

to t

he

top.

5 b

olts

– s

port

. FA

S.H

.25

. OP

IE A

TE

FO

R T

HE

MA

SS

ES

– L

ocat

ed ju

st t

o th

e le

ft of

a s

mal

l pin

on t

ree,

nic

e ea

sy fa

ce c

limbi

ng o

n ni

ce h

olds

. 5.

7 –

4 bo

lts –

spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

26. N

OT

HIN

G B

UT

MA

YO

– L

ocat

ed o

n th

e ot

her

side

of

the

tre

e ju

st le

ft of

a n

ice

5.6

crac

k. T

his

clim

b is

a b

eaut

iful

crui

se.

5.7

– 3

bolts

– s

port

. FA

J.S.

27. C

RA

CK

– G

reat

eas

y cr

ack

with

exc

elle

nt g

ear

plac

e-m

ents

. 5.

6 –

Gea

r –

rap

anch

ors.

28.

TU

NA

ME

LT –

Loc

ated

just

rig

ht o

f the

5.6

cra

ck.

Nic

e cl

imb

up b

ig h

olds

– d

on’t

mel

t in

bet

wee

n th

e bo

lts.

5.7

– 3

bolts

- s

port

. FA

S.H

.

Op

en F

ace

Wal

l24

2526

2728

8

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

Benny Silva Wall

Sport Homo Wall

big blobs of loveaccess to the top

Rob’s an A Health Wall

Joe’s CrackJabba the Hut

Muey Infermo

Slab Wall

parking lot

Benny Silva Wall Health WallSlab Wall

big blobs of love Muey Infermoapproach to the top

East Side ofMentmore as seen from the parking lotThere are many toprope anchors easily accesible and thier routes are not included in this guidebook. Mod-erate/easy bouldering is also plentiful in this area.

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

9

New

Mex

ico

Clim

bing

Clu

b on

the

Hea

lth W

all.

Am

y cr

anki

ng o

ne a

rm p

ull u

ps o

n Ja

bba

the

Hut

2

2

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

Wall of Dreams

1014 111213The Balcony 17

19

2021

2223

24

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

2

1

Mon

olith

910

Wall

of D

ream

s9.

RE

AC

H A

RO

UN

D -

5.1

0C.

Just

wes

t of

the

mon

olith

is

an

aret

e up

on

the

hill.

Thi

n fe

et &

rea

chym

oves

5 b

olts

on

this

spo

rt r

oute

just

sro

und

the

mon

olith

. F

A S

.H.

10. F

LA

KE

S D

ON

’T F

AIL

ME

NO

W –

5.10

B.

50’ w

est

of t

he m

onol

ith is

the

Wal

l of D

ream

s, th

is r

oute

sta

rts

on t

he

obvi

ous fl a

ke a

nd m

oves

to

the

left

to t

he fl

ake

syst

em.

7 b

olts

–

2 bo

lt an

chor

. FA

S.H

.11

. SIN

K O

R S

WIM

– 5

.11C

. Jus

t to

the

wes

t of

the

larg

e of

fwid

th fl

ake.

Nic

e co

ntin

uous

face

clim

bing

. 7

bolts

– r

ap

anch

ors.

FA

S.H

.12

. CR

AC

K –

5.9

. Fi

ne li

ebac

k of

fwid

th c

rack

clim

b.

Gea

r –

Trad

.13

. ON

TH

E E

DG

E –

5.9

. F

ine

face

clim

bing

tha

t m

oves

up

the

arê

te.

5.11

b –

5 bo

lts –

spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

14. S

TO

LE

N D

RE

AM

S –

5.1

1A.

Loca

ted

in t

he m

iddl

e of

the

wal

l jus

t le

ft of

a fi

nger

/han

d cr

ack.

Fac

e cl

imb

that

was

st

olen

from

ano

ther

clim

ber

and

bolte

d. G

reat

clim

bing

with

so

me

long

rea

ches

. 5

bol

ts –

spo

rt.

FA S

.H.

15. F

ING

ER

CR

AC

K –

5.1

1B.

Gre

at c

rack

- ha

s to

p-ro

pe

anch

or.

Gea

r –

Trad

. FA

S.H

.16

. C

HA

I T

EA

-5.1

0B. G

ood

mor

ning

clim

bing

in t

he

sum

mer

tim

e on

the

left

side

of a

det

ache

d fl a

ke. 5

Bol

ts +

Rap

an

chor

s F

A S

.H.

17.

TIM

E B

AN

DIT

S-5

.10C

. Fac

e cl

imb

on t

he r

ight

han

d si

de o

f the

det

ache

d fl a

ke. 5

Bol

ts +

Rap

Anc

hors

. FA

S.H

.18

. C

RE

SC

EN

T M

OO

N-5

.10D

. Use

the

loos

e fl a

kes

and

the

grea

t ar

ch t

o ge

t to

the

cru

x. W

atch

out

and

sta

y aw

ay

from

the

eno

rmou

s lo

ose

rock

on

the

top-

left.

5 B

olts

+2 B

olt

anch

or.

FA S

.H.

1

0

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

East

Sid

e Le

ad R

oute

sLi

sted

wes

t to

east

by

area

1. M

R. M

OT

O –

5.8

. Ja

gged

cra

ck r

oute

nex

t to

the

roa

d,

near

the

bar

bed

wire

. G

ear

FA P

at E

. 2.

I’M

JU

ST

A L

ITT

LE

HO

PP

Y B

UN

NY

– 1

0B.

Nex

t to

the

bar

bed

wire

by

the

crag

ent

ranc

e, c

limb

the

seam

up

past

the

wid

e cr

ack

and

bit

of a

roo

f with

big

jugs

hig

her.

FA

M

iche

al L

. 12/

99.

23

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

1

1

Spor

t H

omo

Wall

Find

this

wall

on

the

left

side

of th

e ea

st c

ompl

ex

3. R

ED

EM

PT

ION

– 1

0D/1

1A.

Chi

cken

win

g yo

ur w

ay u

p to

the

ledg

e, p

lace

sev

eral

psy

chol

ogic

al p

iece

s of

pro

, and

pul

l th

roug

h th

e ro

of.

Don

’t fa

ll. F

A M

icha

el L

. 3/0

0.4.

TH

E D

EM

ON

WIT

HIN

– 1

2A.

Shor

t bu

t ha

rd b

oul-

dery

pro

blem

on

the

left

side

of a

thi

n cr

ack.

If y

ou c

an g

et t

o th

e se

cond

bol

t, ju

st g

rove

l to

the

anch

ors

on t

he le

dge.

FA

M

icha

el 3

/99.

5. D

UU

UU

UU

UU

DE

!! –

10D

. Si

x cl

ips

up t

o th

e st

eep

crac

k ju

st r

ight

of ‘

Dem

on”;

wat

ch t

he t

hird

clip

, dec

king

out

is

poss

ible

. FA

11/

98 M

icha

el L

.6.

LE

AN

ING

SL

AB

– 5

.3.

Big

slab

bou

lder

lean

ing

just

w

est

of ‘J

abba

the

Hut

’ for

mat

ion.

Bol

ted.

FA

Mik

e L.

45

6

2

0

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

the

mon

olith

. G

ear.

Cor

ridor

Rout

es b

ehin

d an

d on

the

mon

olitt

h5.

BU

TT

ER

TO

ES

- 5

.10C

. Jus

t in

side

the

Cor

rido

r on

th

e m

ain

wal

l. E

asy

clim

bing

lead

s to

the

cru

x. 4

bol

ts –

rap

an

chor

s. F

A S

.H.

6. F

IVE

O’C

LOC

K S

HA

DO

W –

5.1

0A. F

ace

clim

bing

le

ads

to a

Fla

ke.

5 bo

lts –

rap

anc

hors

. FA

S.H

.

On

Mon

olith

7. C

AM

ER

ON

’S C

OM

ING

– 5

.10C

. R

ight

sid

e ro

ute.

G

reat

ste

ep fa

ce c

limbi

ng o

n th

e m

onol

ith r

oute

ten

ds t

o th

e le

ft. –

8 b

olts

– 2

bol

t an

chor

(us

e D

umpi

ng B

eaut

y an

chor

s to

ra

p ro

ute.

) F

A M

.S.

8. D

UM

PIN

G B

EA

UT

Y –

5.1

0C.

Left

rout

e fo

llow

s a

righ

t te

ndin

g fl a

ke s

yste

m.

Fine

aw

kwar

d cl

imbi

ng.

7 bo

lts –

2

bolt

rap

anch

ors.

5

6

87

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

1

9

ROU

TES

ON

TH

EN

EW S

IDE

ARE

A

LIST

ED E

AST

TO W

EST

East

C

orrid

or

Wall

1.

ST

RA

ND

ED

– 5

.9.

The

Fi

rst

bolte

d cl

imb

as y

ou e

nter

th

e C

orri

dor

area

. Nic

e cl

imb

with

rap

cha

ins

at t

he t

op.

4 bo

lts-

rap

anch

ors.

FA

S.H

.

2. U

NC

ON

ST

RA

INE

D

– 5.

10A

. Ju

st a

fter

the

gulle

y is

ano

ther

bol

ted

spor

t ro

ute.

N

ice

rout

e –

long

anc

hors

ne

eded

. 4

bol

ts-2

bol

t an

chor

. FA

S.H

.

3. H

IGH

ST

EP

PIN

G

– 5.

10B

. 3

-bol

t ro

ute

just

left

of a

n ob

viou

s cr

ack.

Mov

e up

pa

st s

ome

impr

obab

le m

oves

in-

volv

ing

high

ste

ps.

Long

anc

hors

ne

eded

. 3

bol

ts –

2 bo

lt an

chor

. FA

S.H

.4.

BLO

OD

DO

NA

TIO

N

ST

AT

ION

- 5

.9. O

bviu

os o

f-w

idth

cra

ck o

n m

ain

wal

l beh

ind

1 23

East

Cor

ridor

Wall

45

1

2

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide 710 9 8 Slab Wall

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

1

3

Jabb

a th

e H

utBi

g do

uble

bul

ge e

ast o

f the

‘May

an R

ock.’

Scot

t ha

s do

ne s

ome

high

-bal

l bou

lder

pro

blem

s he

re, n

o le

ad-

able

rou

tes

to d

ate.

Slab

Wall

Just

eas

t of ‘J

abba

the

Hut

’, par

tially

beh

ind

the

mon

olith

. Ton

s of

mod

erat

e po

tent

ial.

7. S

KIN

OF

MY

SH

IN –

10D

. Ju

st b

ehin

d th

e fr

eest

and-

ing

boul

der

near

Jabb

a, st

art

up a

rig

ht fa

cing

are

te b

elow

a

roof

; mak

e a

hein

ous

clip

, and

pul

l the

roo

f to

glor

y. F

A S

cott

H.

10/0

0.8.

PIL

LOW

RO

OF

– 1

1A/B

. Ju

st e

ast

of ‘S

hin’

, sta

rt o

n a

shal

low

are

te b

enea

th t

he h

uge

roof

, and

ten

ds r

ight

to

the

base

of t

he r

oof.

Mov

e ou

t th

e ri

ght

edge

of t

he r

oof,

and

thro

w fo

r th

e ho

rn; h

arde

r va

riat

ion

out

the

lip n

ot y

et c

om-

plet

e. F

A o

n 10

/00

Mic

hael

L.

9. N

O I

DE

NT

ITY

BU

T A

TIT

LE

– 1

0C/D

. Fo

llow

the

sh

allo

w a

rete

up

to t

he s

teep

bul

ge a

bove

, use

the

poc

kets

. FA

M

icha

el L

. 11/

99.

10. L

OO

KIN

G F

OR

DA

NIE

L –

5.8

. Bo

lted

line

on s

labb

y fa

ce.

FA 9

8 D

anie

l.11

. PS

EU

DO

-SU

PE

RC

RA

CK

– 5

.9+

. T

here

is a

wid

e ch

ocol

ate

colo

red

patin

a fa

ce in

the

mid

dle

of t

his

form

atio

n,

just

beh

ind

the

mon

olith

. St

art

insi

de t

he c

ave,

cra

nk o

ver

on

good

han

d ja

ms,

and

pull

hard

to

the

easi

er s

tuff

abov

e. B

ring

ex

tra

num

ber

one

Cam

alot

s. F

A1/

00 M

iche

al L

.12

. ST

ICK

YO

UR

FIS

T H

ER

E –

5.8

. Tw

enty

-fi ve

feet

w

est

of t

he s

wal

low

com

mun

ity is

an

off w

idth

cra

ck o

n th

e le

ft ed

ge o

f a h

uge

deta

ched

fl ak

e. I

t is

big

, so

load

ext

ra 4

-5

Cam

alot

s. O

ccas

iona

l slo

ts a

llow

for

smal

l cam

pla

cem

ents

. FA

M

icha

le 1

/00.

13. H

OO

KY

MA

ST

ER

GE

NE

RA

L –

10B

. W

orm

you

r w

ay u

p th

e bi

g ho

rizo

ntal

s, fu

nk y

our

way

thr

ough

the

hea

d w

all,

and

get

read

y to

pul

l har

d fo

r th

e st

eep

over

hang

ing fi n

ish.

FA

2/0

0 M

icha

el.

The

Swall

ow W

all

Tall s

teep

wall

beh

ind

the

slabb

y m

onol

ith in

the

mid

dle

of th

e cr

ag: it

ha

s sw

allow

nes

ts u

p hi

gh.

14. U

NN

AM

ED

- 1

0B.

Prom

inen

t cr

ack

the

exits

left

of

the

roof

. D

one

grou

nd u

p. G

ear.

FA

Kar

l H.

15. M

UY

EN

FE

RM

O –

10C

. Se

ven

clip

s in

the

mid

dle

of t

he s

wal

low

wal

l. If

you

don

’t sp

eak

Span

ish

it m

eans

‘lar

ge

chee

sy b

urri

to.’

Bol

ts a

re t

all f

rien

dly.

FA

Mic

hale

L. 9

816

. ST

UC

K I

N P

UB

ER

TY

_ 1

1B.

Clim

b th

e st

eep

wes

t si

de o

f the

are

te a

t th

e ri

ght

end

of t

he w

all,

tryi

ng n

ot t

o ex

-pl

ode

your

nog

gin’

on

the

boul

der

behi

nd y

ou.

Don

’t gr

ab r

ight

of

the

are

te. A

bove

the

four

th b

olt,

turn

the

are

te a

nd fi

nish

on

the

D.D

. M.

FA 6

/99

Mic

hael

.

1

8

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

BlockheadEast Corridor Wall

Corridor

Detail of area between Wallof dreams and the Balcony

The balcony

Open Face Wall

▲

▲

▲ ▲▲

▲

▲

▲▲ ▲ ▲▲ ▲

▲▲

▲

▲ ▲

▲

▲

▲

▲

▲▲

▲▲▲ ▲28

8

1011

12

14 131520

2119

2223

24252627

23

7

6 5

1

▲

19

2021 17

13

trail to top

▲16

▲18

▲

4

▲ 9

Menmore NewSide Routes

High Stepping

The CorridorThe Monolith

Flakes Don’t fail me now

Wall of Dreams

Betty’s Redemption

Open Face Wall

The Balcony

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

1

7

xx

38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29Health Wall

1

4

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

15161718

20

2223

19xx

21

Swallow, Bivy, and Benny Silva Walls Swallow Wall Bivy Wall Benny Silva Wall

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

1

5

The

Bivy

Wall

Just

eas

t of ‘T

he S

wall

ow W

all,’ it

s got

ledg

es y

our c

ould

slee

p on

.

17.D

.D.M

. (D

AN

KA

DA

NIE

LL

A, A

ND

MIC

HA

EL

A)

– 10

B.

Clim

b th

e ju

ggy

sout

h si

de o

f the

are

te fo

r 6

fun

clip

s. FA

12/

98.

18. M

G3

(MY

TH

RE

E G

IRLS

) –

11C

. C

rank

and

try

to

clip

you

r w

ay u

p th

is t

rem

endo

us e

dge

rout

e, k

eep

your

min

d he

alth

y fo

r th

e to

p! F

A 1

0/99

.

Benn

y Si

lva W

allIt

has

his

nam

e an

d po

rtra

it em

blaz

oned

in t

he m

iddl

e.

19. F

ET

IS E

NV

Y –

5.8

. O

ff-w

idth

in t

he w

est

corn

er o

f th

e w

all.

Gea

r. F

A 3

/98.

20. R

AZ

OR

S F

OR

M H

EA

VE

N –

10D

. Si

x fe

et e

ast

of

‘Fet

is.’

21

. JO

E’S

CR

AC

K –

5.8

. Pr

omin

ent

hand

cra

ck in

the

ce

nter

of t

he w

all.

Thi

s cr

ack

has

the

repu

tatio

n fo

r be

ing

dirt

y.

Gea

r. F

A C

raig

.22

. FR

OM

CZ

WIT

H L

OV

E –

11B

/C.

Twen

ty fe

et e

ast

of ‘J

oe’s

crac

k’ is

a p

impy

set

of s

hallo

w h

oriz

onta

ls h

eadi

ng u

p to

a s

mal

l roo

f. S

lice

and

dice

you

r tip

s do

wn

low

, pul

l the

roo

f, an

d cr

uise

to

the

top!

Joi

ns 2

8 ne

ar t

he t

op.

23. R

AP

TU

RE

– 5

.10A

. Ju

st e

ast

of ‘J

oe’s

crac

k’ is

thi

s re

achy

bol

ted

line

over

a b

ulge

. FA

12/

99.

24. B

IG B

LOB

S O

F L

OV

E –

5.8

. Ju

st a

s th

e w

all t

urns

the

ea

st c

orne

r, lo

ok fo

r a

line

of 5

bol

ts.

FA D

an T

.25

. TR

ES

AM

IGO

S –

10B

TO

11A

. Fr

om t

he fa

ce r

ight

of

the

sha

rp a

rête

beg

in a

ny o

f the

se t

hree

rou

tes

dow

n lo

w

on t

he b

ould

ery

star

t. O

nce

on t

he le

dge,

mov

e le

ft, r

ight

or

cent

er o

f the

bol

t lin

e. Y

ou c

an a

ctua

lly g

et t

hree

dis

tinct

clim

bs

with

outs

hari

ng m

any

hand

hold

s. A

ll th

ree

are

punp

y.

2228

2726

2524

23 Benn

y Si

lva W

all

Hea

lth W

all

1

6

MEN

TM

OR

E cl

imbi

ng g

uide

Hea

lth W

allRa

ther

long

, str

aight

wall

at t

he e

aste

rn e

nd o

f the

cra

g.

26. M

AY

CA

US

E H

EA

LTH

PR

OB

LE

MS

– 5

.9+

. Fi

n-ge

r cr

ack

in t

he c

orne

r, on

the

wes

t en

d. G

ear.

FA

97.

27. N

OT

SU

ITA

BL

E F

OR

TH

E P

RE

GN

AN

T W

OM

-E

N –

11A

. Bo

lt lin

e 10

ft. e

ast

of ‘H

ealth

pro

blem

s.’ I

f you

ta

ke a

big

fall

on t

his

one,

you

r do

ing

som

ethi

ng w

rong

. FA

pat

E. 28

. MA

GN

UM

CU

M M

AS

OC

HIS

T –

10A

. Fi

rst

bolt

line

east

of ‘

Not

Sui

tabl

e.”

Cra

nk y

our

way

ont

o th

e le

dge,

fi nd

-in

g a

hidd

en b

olt,

and

cont

inue

up

to t

he m

ildly

per

plex

ing

crux

th

at c

an b

e a

bit

slop

ey.

Hit

the

jugs

to

the

sum

mit!

FA

1/0

0.29

. TH

E I

NN

ER

SA

NC

TU

M –

10A

. Si

x-bo

lt lin

e w

est

of t

he o

bvio

us ‘W

hy C

rack

.’ Yo

u to

, may

fi nd

tha

t in

ner

peac

e.

Thi

s is

the

fi rs

t lin

e bo

lted

at M

entm

ore!

30. R

EG

GA

E’S

RO

UT

E –

10C

/D.

Just

left

of t

he o

bvio

us

hand

cra

ck, b

egin

thi

s lin

e di

rect

ly b

elow

one

of t

he fe

w li

nes

of

huec

os a

t M

entm

ore,

sav

e so

me

juic

e fo

r th

e ‘e

ngag

ed’ fi

nis

h!

FA M

arvi

n on

4/0

0.31

. TH

E W

HY

CR

AC

K –

5.7

B/C

. Ju

mbl

y ha

nd c

rack

at

the

east

ern

end

of t

he w

all.

The

fi rs

t ro

ute

done

at

this

cra

g; in

su

b fr

eezi

ng w

eath

er.

Gea

r. F

A w

inte

r 97

.32

. PH

AL

AN

X –

10A

. Sp

litte

r fi n

ger

crac

k at

the

eas

t en

d of

the

wal

l. F

A s

tole

n by

Cra

ig.

33. S

ME

GM

A D

ELU

XE

– 1

1D.

Tast

es k

iller

with

gre

en

chile

and

ext

ra c

hees

e. W

ell b

olte

d lin

e ea

st o

f the

obv

ious

ph

alan

x fi n

ger

crac

k. F

A 5

/98.

34. P

ILE

D H

IGH

– 5

.9+

R/X

. R

unou

t ro

of/c

rack

just

eas

t of

21.

Hea

d st

art

scar

y fi n

ish.

FA

5/9

8.35

. PE

AN

UT

S –

10A

X.

Clim

b ou

t bi

g ro

of 3

met

ers

east

of

‘Pile

d H

igh.

’ Br

ing

smal

l nut

s an

d bi

g ca

hone

s. F

A S

cott

5/9

8.36

. RO

B’S

AN

A –

11B

. Sa

me

star

t as

“Pe

anut

s” b

ut h

ead

righ

t to

the

bol

ts in

stea

d of

str

aigh

t up

as

in “

Pean

uts.”

Gre

at

rout

e, 4

bol

ts.

FA R

ob?

37

. RO

B’S

A B

– 1

2IS

H.

38. R

OB

’S A

C –

11

ISH

.