Medieval What Not to Wear: Medieval What Not to Wear:

The right hat for the right The right hat for the right outfitoutfit

THL Berengaria of Outremer, OW, Cygnus

Knowne World Costume Symposium

The Barony of Jaravellir

November 24-26 2006

Today’s AgendaToday’s Agenda

Overview of hats/headdresses over timeOverview of hats/headdresses over time Northern Europe (Britain, Netherlands)Northern Europe (Britain, Netherlands) Southern Europe (mainly Italy) Southern Europe (mainly Italy) Men and women Men and women Peasant, middle class & noblePeasant, middle class & noble Choosing the right hatChoosing the right hat Creating/Reproducing your hatCreating/Reproducing your hat

Some backgroundSome background

Hats/headdresses became more Hats/headdresses became more elaborate over timeelaborate over time

Heads were generally (but not always)Heads were generally (but not always)covered or hair was dressedcovered or hair was dressed

Northern Europeans used headgearNorthern Europeans used headgear

more than Southern Europeansmore than Southern Europeans

German, 1502 Florentine, 1505

It was more common for women’sIt was more common for women’sheads to be covered than men’s (but notheads to be covered than men’s (but notalways)always)

Different styles of hats were worn at theDifferent styles of hats were worn at the

same timesame time

Hats signalled class/rank, age, ethnicity

Hats for nobility or royalty oftenHats for nobility or royalty often

combined millinery and jewellerycombined millinery and jewellery

Children dressed the same as adults

A note about straw hats and A note about straw hats and snoods:snoods:

Yes, they’re period…but use with caution!

How do you choose the right hat?How do you choose the right hat?

Research, research, research

Research SourcesResearch Sources Primary Sources:Primary Sources:

Artwork of the timeArtwork of the time Writings of the time – literature, ballads, diaries, Writings of the time – literature, ballads, diaries,

wills, etc.wills, etc. Archaeological evidenceArchaeological evidence

Secondary sources:Secondary sources: Costume historiesCostume histories Art booksArt books SCA sources– recommend Cynthia Virtue/Cynthia Du Pre SCA sources– recommend Cynthia Virtue/Cynthia Du Pre

ArgentArgent

Tertiary Sources:Tertiary Sources: EncyclopediasEncyclopedias Pattern booksPattern books Theatrical/film costumesTheatrical/film costumes

Primary sourcePrimary source = = created at the time, by created at the time, by the people who lived itthe people who lived it

Helps you to develop an “eye” for Helps you to develop an “eye” for periods, styles, shapes, fabrics, periods, styles, shapes, fabrics, colours,etc. colours,etc.

Helps you to judge relevance of Helps you to judge relevance of secondary sourcessecondary sources like books, articles like books, articles & websites& websites

What’s the difference?What’s the difference?

Primary sources for North AmericansPrimary sources for North Americans

Not easy to find – mostly located in museums, Not easy to find – mostly located in museums, galleries, university libraries & archivesgalleries, university libraries & archives

For us the Internet is crucial, but….use extreme For us the Internet is crucial, but….use extreme caution!!!caution!!!

Information can range from the sublime to the Information can range from the sublime to the ridiculous…….ridiculous…….

Fantasy

Reality!Reality!

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/effigy.htm

““If you want accurateIf you want accuratecostumescostumes……don't believe web articles,don't believe web articles,collegium seminars, or offhand collegium seminars, or offhand rremarks by others who won't show emarks by others who won't show yyou (or refer you to) the medieval or ou (or refer you to) the medieval or rrenaissance original images they baseenaissance original images they basetheir theories on.their theories on.””

Cynthia de Pre ArgentCynthia de Pre Argenthttp://www.virtue.to/bookmarks.htmlhttp://www.virtue.to/bookmarks.html

Developing an artistic eyeDeveloping an artistic eye

Early detailed visual evidence Early detailed visual evidence of costume not easy to findof costume not easy to find

Portraiture not commonPortraiture not common Human figures not realistically Human figures not realistically

representedrepresented

Be aware that from 1000-1500 Be aware that from 1000-1500 many/most themes were religious or many/most themes were religious or allegoricalallegorical

Even portraits had a lots of religious Even portraits had a lots of religious symbolismsymbolism

Costuming may be in the “Nativity Costuming may be in the “Nativity scene” style – an idealized viewscene” style – an idealized view

Now, a quick romp through hat historyNow, a quick romp through hat history

Viking and Anglo Saxon Periods – to Viking and Anglo Saxon Periods – to 12001200

Characteristics: Characteristics: Simple, flowingSimple, flowing

Accessorizes:Accessorizes: Apron dress, tunic, kirtle & gownApron dress, tunic, kirtle & gown

Women’s hair loose or braided & pinnedWomen’s hair loose or braided & pinned Men’s hair longish, could wear caps or Men’s hair longish, could wear caps or

hoods except for noble Normans who hoods except for noble Normans who shaved the back of their headsshaved the back of their heads

Women also wore veils (silk, linen) with Women also wore veils (silk, linen) with fillets, allows hair to showfillets, allows hair to show

A note on women’s Viking A note on women’s Viking headgearheadgear

“…“…The kerchief as understood and worn in the The kerchief as understood and worn in the SCA is conspicuous by its absence from the SCA is conspicuous by its absence from the archaeological debate about Viking women's archaeological debate about Viking women's headwear. headwear.

"But That's How They Look in the Book!": Viking Women's Garb in Art and"But That's How They Look in the Book!": Viking Women's Garb in Art andArchaeologyArchaeology© 1991, 1999 Carolyn Priest-Dorman© 1991, 1999 Carolyn Priest-Dormanhttp://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/roach.htmlhttp://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/roach.html

Jorvik Hood reconstruction

Dublin Hood reconstruction

http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/hairstyl.shtml#WomensHairstyles

http://www.sagamuseum.is/enska/figures.html

Princess Leia Strikes Back: 1200-1400Princess Leia Strikes Back: 1200-1400

Marie France 1327

Characteristics: Characteristics: Fillets, crowns/veilsFillets, crowns/veils

Accessorizes:Accessorizes: Kirtle & gown, open surcoat, tunicKirtle & gown, open surcoat, tunic

Hair begins to be hiddenHair begins to be hidden Wimples, barbettes developWimples, barbettes develop Secured with fillet or crownSecured with fillet or crown Hair sometimes worn loose underneath but Hair sometimes worn loose underneath but

more typically nettedmore typically netted Men’s hair same as previously Men’s hair same as previously Men’s hats incl. liripipes, capuchonsMen’s hats incl. liripipes, capuchons

Netting begins to take Netting begins to take on a life of its own – on a life of its own – development of the development of the crespinecrespine – occurs – occurs mid-late in the 1300smid-late in the 1300s

Philippa of Hainault 1365

Styles in north and south begin to Styles in north and south begin to divergediverge

Cinderella’s Ugly Sisters: 1400-Cinderella’s Ugly Sisters: 1400-14501450

Characteristics:Characteristics:Extreme shapes – men & womenExtreme shapes – men & womenHidden hair – womenHidden hair – women

Accessorizes:Accessorizes: Houppelande, both men & womenHouppelande, both men & women

Hats become headdresses in this century, Hats become headdresses in this century, except for Italyexcept for Italy Exaggerations of previous trends, esp. women’sExaggerations of previous trends, esp. women’s Shapes are : reticulated, horned, heart-shaped, Shapes are : reticulated, horned, heart-shaped,

turbans,rolls – the escoffionturbans,rolls – the escoffion Veils are optional; have moved away from functionality of Veils are optional; have moved away from functionality of

hiding the hair and are purely decorativehiding the hair and are purely decorative Materials go from simple linens and silks to brocades; metal Materials go from simple linens and silks to brocades; metal

is common in the netting; jewels are part of the designis common in the netting; jewels are part of the design Middle class copy noble fashionsMiddle class copy noble fashions

Italian 1436

French 1430s

Flemish 1439

1430 Flemish 1430 Flemish 1440 Italian 1440 Italian

More similarities for men???

Fairytale Princesses:1450-1485Fairytale Princesses:1450-1485

Characteristics:Characteristics:Pointed or tubular shapes – womenPointed or tubular shapes – womenClose-fitting caps/bonnets,”top hats”Close-fitting caps/bonnets,”top hats”

Accessorizes:Accessorizes:Houppelande, v-necked gown&kirtle –womenHouppelande, v-necked gown&kirtle –womenHouppelande,short tunics – menHouppelande,short tunics – menPointy shoes for bothPointy shoes for both

Hats more streamlined – emphasis on heightHats more streamlined – emphasis on height Veiling is very lightweight, complicated for Veiling is very lightweight, complicated for hennins;hennins; wired wired

and starched to shapeand starched to shape Middle class uses heavier veiling, pins, less exaggerated Middle class uses heavier veiling, pins, less exaggerated

shapesshapes Hair hidden, heads partially shaved/pluckedHair hidden, heads partially shaved/plucked

Completely different in ItalyCompletely different in Italy: jewelled hair, ribbon coifs, : jewelled hair, ribbon coifs, pageboy haircuts (men)pageboy haircuts (men)

Northern 1460s-80s

Southern 1460s-80s

Gables & the Hood: 1485-1550Gables & the Hood: 1485-1550

Characteristics:Characteristics:Rounded shapes, close-fitting – men & womenRounded shapes, close-fitting – men & womenHair allowed to showHair allowed to show

Accessorizes:Accessorizes:Square-necked gown & kirtleSquare-necked gown & kirtleDoubletDoublet

Hennins shrink and become gables ca. 1485 in Northern Hennins shrink and become gables ca. 1485 in Northern Europe & EnglandEurope & England

Turban shapes retained in GermanyTurban shapes retained in Germany Hair still the focus in Italy – both men & womenHair still the focus in Italy – both men & women English hood evolves from gable/kennel in early 1500sEnglish hood evolves from gable/kennel in early 1500s French hood introduced by Anne BoleynFrench hood introduced by Anne Boleyn Men wear flat caps & berets –both north & southMen wear flat caps & berets –both north & south

1496 German vs Venetian

1505 English

1515 Italian

Shakespeare in Love: 1550-1600Shakespeare in Love: 1550-1600

Characteristics:Characteristics:Smaller, flatter, unisexSmaller, flatter, unisex

Accessorizes:Accessorizes: Farthingale, doublet, ruffsFarthingale, doublet, ruffs

Hats become smaller and set off hair, which is poofyHats become smaller and set off hair, which is poofy Usually worn with undercap/coifUsually worn with undercap/coif Some “top hat” styles: “Spanish toque”Some “top hat” styles: “Spanish toque” Court hats can be bigger Court hats can be bigger Little to no veiling – feathers the big accessoryLittle to no veiling – feathers the big accessory Unisex style –both men & women wore, although Unisex style –both men & women wore, although

women’s more delicate and closer-fittingwomen’s more delicate and closer-fitting Italian, French – favour styled hairItalian, French – favour styled hair

SummarySummary

Hats became more elaborate over timeHats became more elaborate over time Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was

dresseddressed Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern

EuropeansEuropeans It was more common for women’s heads to be covered It was more common for women’s heads to be covered

than men’sthan men’s Different styles of hats were worn at the same time Different styles of hats were worn at the same time Children were dressed the same as adultsChildren were dressed the same as adults Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and

jewelleryjewellery Straw hats & snoods are period – but not all-purposeStraw hats & snoods are period – but not all-purpose

Up to 13Up to 13thth century: simple, flowing century: simple, flowing Veil (women), Cap (men)Veil (women), Cap (men)

1300-1400: structure, braids, netting 1300-1400: structure, braids, netting Wimple, Crespine (women), Chaperon (men)Wimple, Crespine (women), Chaperon (men)

1400-1485: big hats, horns, turbans1400-1485: big hats, horns, turbans Escoffion(women),Turban(men)Escoffion(women),Turban(men)

1485-1550: smaller,rounded,flatter1485-1550: smaller,rounded,flatter Gable,French hood(women), Bonnet, Flat cap(men)Gable,French hood(women), Bonnet, Flat cap(men)

1550-1600: small,fitted,plumed1550-1600: small,fitted,plumed Caps, Spanish toque – men & womenCaps, Spanish toque – men & women

Thank you!