Medieval Fashions

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    MEDIEVAL

    FASHIONS

    VE PBLAS, .MEOLA, EW YORK

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    NTRODUCTON

    The medieval era, or Middle Ages, is dened byhistorians as the period in western European historybetween the fall of Rome in the h century and the riseof the Renaissance in the mid-eenth century. The hthrough the eighth centuries have been called the Dark

    Ages Fashions during this time, overall, continued toreect the inuences of the Greek, Roman andByzantine cultures

    The illustrations in this book begin with the FrancoNorman era of the Middle Ages when feudal societybecame well established With the rise of the feudal

    system in the late 80 0s, style and extravagance of dressbecame a reection of ones position in society By thelate 1400s, the cost of clothing and the lengths of itemssuch as hoods, trains and shoes became regulated bysumptuary laws which remained in effect until the earlysixteenth century

    Among the earliest articles of clothing from this timewas a tunic with long sleeves called a bliaud It was wornknee length by men and oor length by women By theeleventh century, men wore the bliaud lengthened to theankle But at the end of the thirteenth century, thebliaud, then called a tunic, was worn by young men amere few inches below the waist, which some peopl

    considered outrageously short

    The bliaud covered a chainse, or under-tunic, usuallycolored saffron yellow Originally made of heavy wool,linen or hemp, the chainse eventually evolved into apiece of lingerie made of sheer, washable fabric. Anothergarment worn by men and women was the mantle, a

    luxuriant cloak fastened in front by a large brooch,buckle, or pin

    Increased trade with the Orient and Far East broughtnew dyes to Europe which were used to produce fabricsin brilliant shades of scarlet, green, blue and purpleWhile materials tended to be rich and heavy,embroidered or r trimmed, at this point, delicatelinens, embroideries, velvets, and sheer gauzes becameavailable.

    In the thirteenth century, the French weaver BatisteChambray invented a closely woven, sheer fabric calledbatiste which inspired the creation of the surcoat Basedon the sleeveless, cloth covering worn over armor byknights to fend off the glare of the sun, the surcoat wasadopted by both men and women as a replacement forthe bliaud.

    The womans surcoat was now open at the sides toreveal a tted dress with long buttoned sleeves called acote-hardie This style was vehemently frowned upon bythe church as being too revealing. Men wore the cote-

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    hardie too, cut shorter Both men and women worejeweled hip girdles, or belts

    In the ourteenth century, parti-colored clothesbecame the rage, rst with men and then with womenGarments were divided into halves or quarters; eachsection was sewn rom a contrasting coor Shoes andstockngs were derent colors as well.

    By the eenth century, the surcoat began to disappear. Women wore a belted dress called la robe whichhad a long sleeved, tted bodice joined to a ll skirtMen wore jackets that covered a quilted garment with orwithout sleeves called a pourpoint Originally wornunder armor, the pourpoint evolved into a vest.

    For outerwear, women wore owing capes whichwere lined with r in winter. A popular men's cloak wasthe houppelande A trailng robe with long bishop's

    sleeves, the houppelande was astened in olds at thewaist by a jeweled belt

    Sleeves became important, particularly on the surcoatand the houppelande While some sleeves hung over thehand, others were dramatically longer, with openings at

    the elbows or arms to extend through Another style olong sleeves was called the dogaline. The sleeve

    openings, the size o large circles, were olded back andastened to the shoulders, revealing a rich abric or rlining.

    Dagged edges, a petal-like scalloping, were populardecoration or all parts o clothing rom hats tohouppelandes; only stockings escaped this kind o

    embellishment. Small silver bells, avored ornaments ormen and women, appeared on belts, girdles, baldrics (abelt or sash slung across the body om the shoulder tothe opposite hip), hats and the toes o shoes

    Head coverings or men included skullcaps, helmets,peaked bonnets, and hats with rolled brims. Crusaderssometimes wore straw hats over their metal helmets todeect the sun By the eleventh century, so abrc capswith peaked tops were in general use. Men also woretoques or bag caps Full and round, they were gatheredonto head-bands. Sugarloa shaped hats made o eltwere worn with and without brims Feathers as hatornaments rst appeared in the medeval era; thepeacock plume was most popular.

    By the twelh century, the chaperon, a hooded cape,became the most common headgear or men. Wile thehood remained in ashion through the sixteenth century

    with only nobles allowed to wear long hoods, during theourteenth century, the peak o the hood lengtenedinto a lrpipe A streamer o gauze or rbbon whichsometimes reached the oor, liripipes were also restrictedto use by obly Over the years lrppes grew to suchoutrageous lengths that some men wrapped themaround their wrists. Stued turbans, called roundlets

    were trimmed with liripipes too.During the Middle Ages, the Christian church

    required that women cover their heads. Thepredominant head covering or women was a square,

    oblong, or round piece o abrc called a couvreche,also called a wimple or a headrail In earlier centures, thebasic headrai was wrapped around a woman's neck andshoulders, held in place by a crclet or crown Begnningin the welh century, the wimpl bcame a longerlength o abric, usually whit inen, which was drawn upunder a woman's chin and astnd on top o her head.Ovr the wimple, women wore a sparate couvrchewhich was held in place by a crown or crclet. Variatonso these headdresses survived n many rligious ordersuntil the twentieth century In the welh cntury,blonde hair was ashionable. Some women sat or hours

    on enclosed terraces waiting or th sun to bleach thertresses; others used alse hair and cosmtcs urng thethirteenth century women began to wear smal, crownlike toques, a headband and chinband, all n whitlinen In the ourtenth cntury th caul cam intoashion Ths syle conceald a woman's hair in a silencase covered with a heavy nt o jwled sver or goldcord. Hair coverings varied widely, rom a simp snoodlike net to cylindrcal cauls worn on er side o the

    ace, to a padded horn or heart-shaped headdrssastened over the caul Women oen wore sher veils ontop o the entire combination They plucked the visiblhair at the napes o thir ncks, at their temples andthinned their eyebrows

    In the ourteenth cntury, the hennin, or stplheaddress, was introduced by Isabela o Bavara. A talcone, t had a black vlvet band across the tp o thorehead Always draped with a oating or wired vel, theheight o the hennin became so extravagant that theauthorities mposed regulations here too. The hghr thhennin, the more exalted a prson's place n society

    The chinband cam into sty during th nthcentury. A olded whte linen wrapped under a woman'schi, astening to a band around hr orehead In another style o head covering, a stined head-band wasshaped into a low toque or crownlk headdress.

    Men and women wore similar so leather or abricshoes with elongated toes. Thes low cut shoes butnedor tied at the ankle So and pabl, they were mad ovelvet or gold coth and decorated with embroidry,strips o god, and gems. ne men's syle, t poulaine,had pointed toes whch becam so ong that they had tobe stued to hold ther shapes. Eventually th

    exaggerated toes wer held up by ne chans attached tote knees. Also caled a pouaine was a cog or pattnmade o wood, which was wo to protect t so solso shoes

    Men wore tted and sewn stockings or tights Madeo bias cut materia, they wer decorated wth ewledgarters. Stockings, held up at th waist with a blt or te,were crossgartered on the lower lg wth bands o abrcor so leather

    Heavy chains and ewld bts wre popuar accssorsamong weathy people who usd hem t carry pouchs,purses, and daggers set wit prcous stons.

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    Ninth-centuy NobilityLf: The Frankish noblewoman wears a mantle over a Norman noblewoman s wearng a mantle blaud, and

    mal girdle wth mal sleeves over a blaud. Right: The chanse.

    4

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    Ninthcentury Minstre and Frankish ady: Th man is waring a bliaud ovr crossgartrd mantl ovr hr bliaud. Hr plaitd braids ar dcoratdtights. Right Th lady wars an mbroidry-dgd with mtal tips and a couvr-chf.

    5

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    Ninth-century Soldier and Pilgrim: The ode wea meal chain mail armor over a hi head i a boled leaher ha. Right The pilgrm long leeved nic. The boiled laher cuira, anoher wearing an early verion of he coe-hardie over a bliaudype of defenve amr, i wo over he chain mail. On acceorized wih a fel ha.

    6

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    Tenceny Pras Obili

    f Th F'h noblwoman W n mbid"d i w,g man OV" n mbid"d tUnic -

    n ov" bliud and hain ." , noblman ga"d okings and 'ofkt" ho.

    7

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    Eevenhceny Ango-Sonsef Th noblman is waring an mbroidrd unic or mbroidrd biaud ovr a chmis wih mbroidrdshr (h word shir coms from i a chmis yp cuffs Sh wars a manl and a hadrail. Hr d waisgarmn wih slvs a manl, and cross-garrd a fashion innovaion was accomplishd wih aingsbrchs. gh Th noblwoman wars an down h back.

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    Eleventh century Midde Class Travelers on a Pilgrimage: ver her chainse the woman wears a tted biaud twisted and bound into a turban. Right The gentlemanwith angel sleeves. Both garments are decorated with wears a long bliaud with angel sleeves and embroidery atembroidery. Her headail wo over a wimple has been the skirt hem. His hood extends into a shoulder cape

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    Eeventhcentury Sodier and Knight: The foot soldier wears a short tunic cross-gartered metal battle helmet or spangenhelm over a chain mailights and leather shoes A chain mail hood covers his hood. He wears a so undertunic or pourpoint coverediron skull-cap Over his chest he wears a leather baldric, by his tunic of hardened leather tiles. His arms and legsa diagona sash for carrying a shield and knife; he holds are protected by tted chain mai sleeves and leggings;a battle ax Right The crusader knight is wearing a his shoes are leather.

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    Eevenh-ceny Peasans Under her cloak the woman wears a bliaud drawers whch are crossgartered His cloak s tied at thecovered with an apron which is laced for t She wears shoulder On his head he wears a peaked cloth orcrossgartered, so leather stockngs On her head s a phrygian helmet-shaped cap His shoes are leatherheadrail gh The man wears a short tunic over loose

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    we-ceny Frsh oyalty: The Fraksh prnce wears a long elaborately the bottom : The prncess wears an outt wthembrodered blaud wh exremely long sleeves perhaps nely embrodered trm Crclng her long blaud S ato keep hs hands warm Hs chanse s oor length Ted double grdle of jeweled eather wth slk tesat the shoulder hs mantle has an embrodered band at

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    Twef-century German Middle Class CoupleThe man and woman each wear a bliaud with a long edged with embroideryleather belt and sof leather shoes. The man's bliaud is

    13

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    '/jJ

    Twehcentury Merchant and Nobewoman The commoner merchan wear a beled urcoa over a l-leeved cheme and a long manle over all.over a bliaud. Hi manle faen a he houlder; a pouch The manle and bliaud are edged wih jeweledhang from hi bel or grdle. On hi head i a conica fel embroidery. Her head gear nclude a conical hennin orha. ght The woman wear a horleeved bliaud high headdre over her headrail, or veil.

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    welcenry Norman NoblewomanThis noblwoman wars a ttd gown which s lacd in th angl slvs Hr crown is layrd btwn ath back Hr ll skirt is gathrd undr an itricatly shortnd hadrail and a long vil

    mbroidrd girdl or blt with mbroidry matching

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    Tweh-cenry French Commoners The hunter wears a short tunic with batwing or he holds a ong bow. ght Carrying a shouder scar ordolman sleeves Bloused abric at his waist covers a belt. stole, the townswoman wears a belted bliaud withHe wears nitted stocings low cut eather shoes and a dolman sleeves. Her headrai is wrapped lie a turban.elt hat A wicer arrow quiver hangs rom his waist and

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    Twe cenry Headdressesa. ng plaits bound with ribbons with meta cylinders Chin-band and toque of pleated linen. k Toque worncoverng the ends b. hrygian or close tting cloth cap over a chin strap cap with net caul covering hair. Chn-c. A peaked hat made of felt with casteated brim d. band and headband of ribbon Turban with moirLinen gorget, or coar Folded wimple worn over chin leaves. n White linen cap and chn-band under a gold

    strap cap. f. Wimple g Hood and cape h White linen crown. o Mens version of the wimple with bandedtque with pie crust edging worn over chin-band i. wool capJeweled velvet toque worn over gorget and chin-band 17

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    Thireenh-cenury igh and ady: Th crusadr knight wars a chain mail hood undr waring a whit linn wimpl and gorgt with a wlda stl hlmt with a chain mail tunic, lggings, stl circlt Hr diaprd pattrn bliaud covrs a whitkn guards and shos Ovr th tunic h wars a surcoat chmis Covring all is a ll mantl witl contrastingwith daggd dging. Righ Th English noblwoman is lining

    18

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    Thirteenth-century German Upper Cass Couple Th maid wars a frnt lacd diaprd surcat Right Th man wars a hd with a liripip undr hisvr a havily mbridrd shr-slvd bliaud and cap and tunic H wars wl tights and s lathr rsimpl chmis On hr had is a jwld circlt Th lack trimmd btsf a hadrail r wimpl indicats that sh is a maidn

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    Thirteenthcentury French Upper Cass Coupe: Th man wars a surcoat or gardcorps with wars an ungrdld gown undr hr mantl. Both warhanging slvs ovr his bliaud. Right Th woman chin strap caps undr thir hats

    20

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    Thirteenth-century Italian adyThe lady wear an embroidered and jeweled mantle over glove are embrodered and jeweled.her head and houlder. Her robe i brocaded ilk. Her

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    -_-7p-/ -N t Thirteenth-century Nobility

    eft Th wai o th noblwoman gown ha movd g to advantag Faturing paddd and pudo jut undr th boom th kirt ha an xtrmly long houldr and lahd hanging lv hi cot ha a rain. Sh war a tp hnnn with a loo vil ght trimmd collar Around hi nck h war a circl o Th gnlman cot or jack i cu hort howing hi

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    Thirteenthcentury Itaian BrideThis young woman wears a robe o brocaded silk, shot metalic spanges and she carries a bouquet o owerswith god or silver threads. The pane down the ront has

    23

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    ' -.

    hirteenthcentury Peasants This fam woman weas a woo bliaud belted and his baes o beeches which ae gatheed and tied at thebloused at the waist Unde he staw hat she weas a waist The legs ae caught up and tied to pointes at thekechief tied to fom a goget She weas so leathe waistband He weas a cap with chinband His feet aeshoes Right The man has emoved his tunic and we see bae because he is saving his shoes fo special occasions

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    Thirteenthcentury Headgear and Coifsa Embroidered linen oque wih hinbnd b soldiers hin mil hood i Brod brimmed el hEmbroidered hennin wih blk velve od worn over worn over wimple nd veil Modied sued nd

    whie p nd ron oop c Two horned Engish hennin roed hennin wih pdded irle k Mn's oque wihd Peed linen oque wih hinbnd e Whie linen ieon hinbnd Roled under hirdo nd berd ohedri drwn hrough rownless oque f Jeweled he period f Fe h wo over p wih hinbnd nire over roheed wool ne g Chinbnd wimple Wimple wih hinbnd nd irend selled linen oque h Srw h worn over 2

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    Fourteenth-century English Princess and ady-in-Waiting: e ladyinwaiting wears a belted bliaud over an Her mantle is brocaded lined wit emine. On sides ofembroidered cainse. e sleeves are te same fabric as er ead se wears cylinder cauls topped by a crown overte bliaud. Right e princess wears a tted cote a peaked cap.trimmed in ermne ove an embroideryedged bliaud

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    Fourteenth-century Engish King d Pagehe Kg wears a brocaded tuic, a shirt with melo his matle ad he wears hs jeweled girdle at his hip hesleeves ad kitted tights with feet Petal scallops edge page wears a girdle at his waist; his sleeves are age style

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    Fourteenthcentury Dancing Court Couple: She wears a tted robe with a long train Right: poulaine styled toes His hat a roundlet has a chaperonHe wears a parti-colored jacket and tights One leg o his cut into deep ngerstights has an embroidered garter; his shoes have long

    2

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    \ \Fourteenth-century English Nobility

    : The ldys srcot is drker thn the cote-hrie it hoppelnde whih is held t his wist with longcovers. She wers jeweled girdle t her hip nd lether belt. On his hed he wers chperon with jeweled c on her hed : Over his lightweight liripipewhite tnc, the lord wers brightly colored

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    Fouteenthcentury French Nobiity: This lady wears a pale colored cotehardie girdled cap with a padded rolled brim and a jeweled ornamentat the hip Her brightly colored surcoat has hanging His acet is brocaded sil with velvet sleeves his tightssleeves and miniver trim Right The lord wears a bag and shoes are particolored

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    Fourteenthcentury Femish Nobility: he gentleman ears a sholder cape hood th a shoes ight he genteoman eas a daperlrppe over a coteharde th a matchng hem he patterned coteharde coverng a hte tnc Her skcoteharde s accessorzed th ermne cs and a hennn has a braded netjeeled belt. He ears dark stockngs and embrodered

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    Fourteenth century Musicians his womn wes cotehdie with hnging nd high lethe boots A hon hngs fom his silvesleeves nd n emine coll On he hed is wimple belled bldic Since commones cold not ffod mostchinstp cp nd toqe Cente his msicin wes bightly dyed fbics, the colos hee wold pobbly becothdie with bg cp Right he mn wes so ntl tonesdeeply blosed tnic with bg sleeves ove wool tights

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    Fourteenthcentury taian Upper Cass Coupe Sh wars a gown with a jwld bodic and a r hoppland has mbroidrd cs and a trimmddgd front slit skirt ovr a brocad ndrskirt Th bottom dg Topping his linn cap is a lt hat with anormos, dogain slvs ar lind with so r On pakd brim and athrhr had is a std, satin trban Right His

    33

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    Foureenh-cenury Ialian Nobiliy: The lady wears a brocaded robe eatring long Righ The gentleman wears a short tnic with a god,owing seeves and a train Her wimple and padded sil enameled and jeweled girdle His mantle is dobled andhennn are bond wh gimp and trimmed with r ped arond hs shoders.

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    Fourteenth-century German Midde Class Couple: The man's bliaud which buttons down the front the knee the ladys bliaud buttons down the front ass covered by a mantle which fastens at the shouder well Underneath she wears a long sleeved chainseRight: Featuring short sleeves with tippets hanging to

    3

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    Fouteenth-centuy Fench NoblemanThis genteman weas a lined houppelande o sleeves The sit is slit at the sides with dagged ibbonsbocaded sil with castellated edges on the Dalmatian taiing down the bac His hat is chapeon style

    36

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    Fourteenthcentuy Fench NobewomanThe slk bade huppelande ths lady has a shee that math te pumed hat

    veape He skt and us ae edged wth bands

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    Fureenhcenury eigius Cupe f he Upper Cass Th woma wa a ubltd bliaud with a wa a k-lgth tuic which i platd ad bltdplatd gogt ad a plai hadail taditioal gamt With ll bag lv it ha tim at th colla lv

    which dat back to th twl ctuy igh Th ma ad hm.

    3

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    o

    Foureenh cenury Headdressesa. Gget wimpe with a shee vei wn as a headai pinned p in the stye f a chapen i Man's hd withwith a pea cicet Hai is ped ve the eas b iipipe and shde cape Mans fet cap wn ve aGget and gatheed headai which is tcked nt a cif cap with chin stap. k. Man's fet hat page byheadband c Cyindica cas wn with a chinband d. haict Man's sgaaf hat wn ve a hd Jeweed cicet with shee headai. e. Stffed ed and Man's cnica fet hat. n Man's hd with ca o.jeweed hennin wn with eticated cas and vei. f Man's fet hat with peaked bim. W ve a cap it sWidws mning peated bab wn ve te chin tpped with a feathewith mning vei g Simpe headai h Headai 39

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    Fieenth-centry French NobiityLeft he nobleman wears a short pleated brocaded bodice o the surcoat has an embroidered and jeweledtunic and a jeweled necklace On his head is a padded collar and cosure Under the surcoat is a long sleevedrondlet with a chaperon Right: The noblewoman hip girdled cotehardie On her head she wears a jeweledwears a srcoat over a parti-coored skirt with an toque chin strap and reticulated net cals.appq representing the amilys coat o arms he r

    40

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    Finh-cntury Frnch Nobility

    c,

    Q

    nobleman wear a ouppelande wit petal ilk trimmed wit a body oored elt at bandalloping Hi at i a padded roundlet wit aperon oar uff em and ewel-tuddd belt er er Rght:e lady wear a gown and ennin of metal ot i wired to old it buttery ape

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    i j ! i f : i

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    Fieenhceny Engish Nobewomanhe ady wears a r lied houppelade over a gow of eklae Her rolled heartshaped silk hei isgod broaded silk. Aroud her ek she wears a jeweled embellished with a jeweled et retiulated aul

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    Feenth-century Germn Nblty he nobewoman weas a si obe with an he gentleman weas a nee lngth cotehadie heemboideed patten he tted bodice and the sit shit abic is plled thogh the spaces between thehem ae timmed in emine On he head she weas a bttons on the sleeves to ceate ps He weas a peta

    steeple hennin with a blac lappet band coveing the dagged chapeon with a petal edged iipipe hangingowe edge Showing at he oehead is a fontlet ing down the ont

    which is pat o the wie cap nde he hennin Rght 43

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    Fieencenry German Nobiliy: This lad wears a gown wth ll ag sleeves uner houppelande with padded shoulders and longa mantle with a cord closure On her head is a padded exaggerated sleeves He wears dark shoes tights and aturan with a jewel pin. The veil tas have castellated felt sugarloaf hat

    edges gh The gentleman wears a rocaded

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    -

    ,\[1/\1\1/.:_I I

    :

    Feenth-centry French Peasants

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    : The woman weas a obe wih a ed wais he wih a olled head band ght: Ove his shi (shee)es o lacing in he back He ski hem is cked ino and baes he man weas a laced coe which is open ahe band aond he hips o poec i om geing dy he sides His leahe sockngs ae held p wih eahe

    exposing he chainse On he head she weas a cloh cap ope He weas a wide bimmed saw ha

    4

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    Fifteenthcentury Women's Hedger Stpl hnnin paticld with fntlt wn v linn tban with jwls pals and gld baid A liipipa hadail f viling A s vil hangs fm th pint f hangs fm th tban t th in back g. Jwldth hnnin h Haddss f ticlatd gld baid and cap with wid vil h Wimpl with castllatd dg vpals with dm cals Jwld linn tban with vil ticlatd cals i Jwld cwn v ticlatd caland hn plms d Flt mbidd tq with wid Diap pattnd stpl hnnin with wid vil andvil e Escfn tw hnd hnnin mad f ggt attachd t band Vil dgd with bcadd bandbcadd sik dgd with pals S vil f Paddd

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    MEDIEVAL FASHIONSTOM TIERNEY

    From the humble garb of peasants to the elaborate styles of the nobility this meticu

    lously researched coorng book oers expertly rendered ilustratons of medieval costumes.Both colorists and fashion devotees will adore these lOvingly detailed images of ords andladies decked in regal attire pilgrims dressed for weeks of rough riding crusader knightsin chain mail armor and much more.

    European fashions from the ninth through the fteenth century appear in this comprehensive fashion retrospective Fory-ve ready-to-color illustrations porray people fromevery class of soiety from farmers in plain tunics, aprons and rles to courtiers inembroidered mantes and brocaded silk robes wth fur-trimmed sleeves.

    Compete fact-lled captions in addition to an informative introduction help make thisvolume an excellent resource for fashion historians and costume desiners as well as adistinctive and entertaining colOring book

    riginal Dover (998) publication 4 back-and-white illustrations. IntroductionCaptions 48pp 8Y x 1 Paperbound

    Free Dover Full-Coor Children's Book Cataog (9071-2)available upon request