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Transcript of Master Magazine
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The History of CostumeReference Book
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FOREWORD
.
History is the study of the past, with special attention to the writtenrecord of the activities of human beings over time. It is a field of research which uses a narrative to examine and analysethe sequence of events, and it often attemps to investigate objectively the patterns of cause and effect that determine events.
The term costume can refer to a wardrobe and dress in general, or tothe distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period.Costume may also refer to the artistic arrangement of accesories in apicture, statue, poem, or play, appropriate to the time, place or othercircumstances represented or described, or to a particular style ofclothing worn to portray the wearer as a character or type of characterother than their regular persona at a social event.
Reference is the intensional use of one thing to indicate something else.Whilst, a book is a set of written, printed, illustrated, or blank sheets,made of paper, parchment, or other material, usually fastened togetherto hinge at one side.
This is a History of Costume Reference Book.
Kelvin Halim
Laura Ireen Liew
Natalie Zainal
Simone Chelsea Cubinar
004F1409
012F1109 002F1109
007F1109
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Introduction
Fashion refers to the styles and customs prevalent at a given time.In its most common usage, “fashion” exemplifies the appearancesof clothing, but the term encompasses more. Many fashions are popularin many cultures at any given time. Important is the idea that the courseof design and fashion will change more rapidly than the culture asa whole. Fashion designers create and produce clothing articles.
The term innovation means a new way of doing something. It mayrefer to incremental, radical, and revolutionary changes in thinking,products, processes, or organizations. A distinction is typically madebetween invention, an idea made manifest, and innovation,ideas applied successfully.
This reference book basically preview fashion innovation; current fashion styles that incorporated detailing from the past.
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The Contents
THE CHAPTER
Foreword Introduction
PRE-HISTORIC &MESOPOTAMIA
EGYPT, CRETE, MYCANAE,GREECE, ROME
THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE
WESTERN EUROPETHROUGH 11TH CENTURY
15TH CENTURY
16TH CENTURY
17TH CENTURY
THE APPENDIXES
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Daria Werbowy by Michael Thompson Draped furs, long-sleeved fur coat
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PREHIS
TORICA
NDMESOPOT
AMIA
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Daria Werbowy by Michael Thompson Caps of fur worn to keep the head warm
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Missoni's Campaign Spring/Summer 2009 Belts
thin stripes of hide to tie around the waist Photographer Steven Meisel
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Leather usedphoto by Reuters
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UK Vogue March 2009 Editorial Black and White Animal hide short boots
Photographer Nick Knight Model Anja Rubik
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Babylonian slanted skirtStylish by Craig McDean
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Flair January 2009 Rachel Clark Assyrian
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Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean for Another Magazine Fringe, dominant features of the Sumerian costume
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H & M Collection by Commes des Garcons for Amica Persian trouser
Photographer Anja Frers Styling Marion Darimont
Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher
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Greenpeace TattooStop Killing Whales
Advertising Agency Leo Burnett Hong kongCreative Directors Connie Lo, Chong Kin, Yiu Man To
Art Directors Kenny Ip, Jacky TongIllustrator Thomas HoPhotographer Lewis Ho
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Cameron Krone for Contributing EditorThe toga, most renowned Roman
EditorialOur Swords Photographer Cameron Krone
Fashion Editor - Michael Bargo
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EGYPTCRETEMYCENAE
GREECEROME
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Edita Vilkeviciute and Anna Maria Jagodzinska by Craig McDean
Egypt Middle Kingdom- still transparent fabrics
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Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother Magazine
Pleated tunics and skirtsfell into the fine lineswhich not only emphasized
the cut of the garmentbut also cling to the
body in fluid, pleated lin
Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother MagazineNecklaces/collars
were made ofgeometrically arranged
natural material
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Anna Maria,Viktoriya, Sessilee
by Steven MeiselHat headdress-
inverted plant potresembles a beret
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Lakshmi Menon for Dazed and Confused magazine Royalties wear gold, civilian wears linen
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MaxMara Spring 2009 Stola, outer tunic
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Nicole Kidman by Steven Meisel Greek chiton; better draping, clung to the body and himation; small cloak-like garment www.trendnista.com
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Madonna by Steven Klein Strophium, a bust bodice made of unstiffened fabric
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Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Minoan flounce skirt
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Claudia Rogge Design The Byzantines
tended to be very modest about any display of flesh
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BYZANTINE EMPIRE
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Numero French Issue 99Magie Noire Photography Miguel Reveriego
Styling Capucine SafyurtluModel Jessica Stam
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Gizia MagazineThe purple dye
The manufacturing of purple dye was a secret guarded by its imperial manufacturers
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KuroiThe Byzantines
tended to be very modest about any display of flesh Photographer Carlos Alsina Stylist Benat Yanci
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Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother Magazine Empress Theodora
for ceremonial purposeswore ropes of pearls
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Valentino Haute Couture Collection 2009Jewel-encrusted robe nguyentopoftheworld.blogspot.com
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Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Paludamentum, or long cloak
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Numero Editorial SirenePhotographer Steven Klein Dalmatica
The Byzantines added two changes to this basic formThey enlarged the sleeves, making them large
draping bell shapes, and they broadenedthe hem dramatically
also into a bell shape, allowing the garmentto hang in folds about the legs
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Numero Editorial Sirene StolaPhotographer Steven Klein
The stola was part of a layered outfit It was worn over the top of a
long underdress and a shorter tuniceither of which might have had long sleeves
early stolas were sleeveless
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Craig McDean for Another MagazineThey layered their clothing
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Genevieve for Cheek Magazine 2009 Richer people in the 11th Century use softer furs such as mink
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WESTERNEUROPE
THROUGH11TH12TH13TH
CENTURY
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Rue Du Mail Fall 2009 Hoods
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Christian Dior Haute CoutureBarbarian ArmourFall Winter 2006
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Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel Goldberg Fur usage
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Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel Goldberg Featured jagged-edge- slitting
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Givenchy Haute CoutureSpring/Summer 2009
Veil
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Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean Another Magazine
Hennin conical headdress from which trails as veil
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Elene Sudakova by Solve SundsboEleanor of Acquitane
bought the flowing gown into fashion
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Missoni Spring/Summer 2009 Ad CampaignHigh-waisted gown with decorative belt
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Dazed and Confused February 2009Editorial Brazil
Preferance for a range of sartorial elements
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Givenchy Spring/Summer 2009Ad Campaign The fashion for puffed sleeves
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51 THCENTURY
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Numero Korea Magazine Wide, shallow, scooped neckline replaced by a V-neck
Photographer Mariano Vivanco
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Sun Goddess UK Harpers' Bazaar July 2009 Houppelande sleeves daggered/cut into scallops
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Polina Kouklina by Peter Lindbergh Houppeland, an outer garment
long and full body
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Cos Spring/Summer 2009 Chemise/smock, worn next to the skin Editorial Colour Me Carefully,Colours of Summer Photographer Will VanderperreStylist Joe Mckenna
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Linda Evangelista by Steven MeiselVerdugada/Verdugado
gown with a bell-shaped hoop skirtwith visible casings,
stiffened with reeds in casingwhich would become the farthingale
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The Evangelist for Prive AsiaWinter 2008 Farthingale
Photographer Baldovino Barani Stylist Holly Suan Gray
Make-Up Angie PasleyModel Elyse Sewell
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Dior Homme Ad Campaign Spring/Summer 2009 Slashing, to reveal a lining of undergarment beneath
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Numero Editorial SireneThe decorative technique known as slashing
involved making small cuts in the outer fabric of a garmentso as to reveal the inner lining
Photographer Steven Klein
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Cate Blanchett by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair, February 2009 Farthingale
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Emma Watson by Karl Lagerfeld A common use of wire
was to create a kind of dome above the forehead and to attach
a linen cloth that flowed over the back of the head, revealing the hair beneath
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6THCENTURY1
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Jessica Stam by Solve SundsboSleevesan essential part of the wardrobeso they were made in the samerich fabrics as other garmentsincluding silk and velvetThey often had fancy lace or linen cuffsattached to the ends of the sleeves
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Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2009 Mens, Milan Pumpkin breeches(for the lower body),
padded to give them a particular shape
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Emma Watson by Karl LagerfeldFancy aprons were trimmed out in decorative lace and might be embroidered with intricate patterns. Aprons attached at the waist with a tie
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A Medici collar provided a large, decorative frame around the sides and back of a woman’s head. The collar was typically worn with a gown with a decollete neckline, a low neckline that
revealed a woman’s cleavage
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Yasmin Warsame by Steven Meisel Bombast,absolutely essential for both men's and women's clothing.
Form of stuffing-cotton, wool, horsehair, sawdust
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Cate Blanchett by Annie LeibovitzVanity Fair, February 2009
The Ruff,wide-pleated collar aroundthe neck. Stiffened with starch/wired
stood out like a wheel around the neck
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Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2009 Mens MilanCodpiece
a flad porch sewn at the top of man's hose
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Nick Rae by Dimitri Theocharis Periwig, essential item for men's fashion in the 16th Century
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Javier Artiñano La Conjura Del Escorial jasonThe Ruff
A wide pleated collar, often stiffemed
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Stella Tennant by Nathaniel Goldberg Middle century head wear [dutch women]
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17CENTU
RY
TH
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Miss Shaped by Steven MeiselLight muffs might be made of
double layers of satin or velvetstuffed to provide insulation
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Interview March 2009 Mary-Kate Olsen by Craig McDean Stomacher also provided an important decorative element to women's gowns
They were often covered in a fabric that contrasted with the rest of the bodice
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Heidi KlumVogue Germany EditorialStomacher, most basic form. A long V- or U- shaped panel that decorated the front of the bodice extending from neckline down to the waistPhotographer Claudia Knoepfel & Stefan Indlekofer
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VogueDevon Aoki
falling band collar it fastenedat the neck and draped
over the shoulder and might be plain
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Hair Storm by Solve SundsboFontange
Curled or frizzed, women’s hair was worn swept up into high pilesat the beginning of the century
fluffed at the sides during mid-century, and again at the end of the century, worn quite tall, in towering fontange hairstyles
Photographer Anja FrersStyling Marion Darimont
Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher
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H & M Collection by Comme des Garcons For Amicahose, a precursor to knit stockings.
Hose were made from a loosely woven fabricand they were cut on the bias, or diagonally,
which allowed them to fit the legs snugly
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state of graceBustles
consisted of various objects, including cushions, pads, and frames made of wire and wood,
that were tied around the waistor directly attached to a woman’s skirts
Photo by Mario Testino
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West East MagazineThe New PuritansCravat Steinkerk
Twist the ends of the cloth and stuckit through a buttonhole in
their waistcoat or justacourpsPhotographer Baldovino Barani
Styling Holly Suan Gray
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Nicole Kidman by Steven Meiselfalling band/collar
Made of unstiffened silk or cambrica fine linen
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The Appendixes
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