Slide 1

Marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization

Lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting

Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labour and table space Marker Making:

Marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.

Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

Marker Modes

Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric. Nap either way (N/E/W)

Nap one way (N/O/W)

Nap up and down (N/U/D)

The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional. N/E/W with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line

N/O/W all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction N/U/D all patterns pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy Dimensions of marker Two types

Blocked markers/Sectioned markers

Continuous markers

Sectioned markersContain all pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.

Easier to visualize plot or handle

Stepped spread: consist of plies of varied length, spread at different height.

Usage of stepped spread: Adjust the quantity of piece goods to no. of garment to be cut from each ply.

Continuous markerContain all pattern pieces of all sizes in single cutting.

Lengthy

More marker efficiency

Use splice marksTypes of Markers

Open marker Marker made with full pattern pieces

Closed Marker marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along thefolds of the tube (tubular knit)

Splice marksAre points in the marker where fabric can be cut and next piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread

Two types Straight - Line Interlock

Usage: Removal of flaws Roll change Short length of fabric used

Straight line splicingRefers to vertical line across the width of the marker ; on which the ends of the pattern sections abut on both sides of the pattern line.

It is marked by single line on the table

Overlap is 2 on each side of line

Inter lock spliceRefers to section where opposing ends of successive patterns in the spreading marker interlock instead of meeting at common vertical line along width

Contain two lines

To avoid confusion two lines are connected by two diagonal lines

Diagonal line indicate common area that must be overlapped

2 safety extension Making of splice marksChalk

Paint

Base paper

Marks shall be quickly and easily removable.

Quality of markerAccuracy

Complete data size, style no., piece name.

Precise lines accurate, consistent, fine, smooth.

Pieces not omitted

Correct grain

Plan knife path for cutting.

Marker makingManual

Computerized

Manually produced markersCreated by arranging full size pattern pieces on marker paper or directly on top ply of fabric in spread.

Traced by tailors chalk or pencil.Pros and cons of manual methodTime consuming

Require great deal of space

Subject to error of grain variation

Poor line definition

Omission of pieces

Accuracy depends on skill of individual

Low cost

Computerized marker makingMarker made using CAD software

Pros and cons of computerized marker makingAccurate

Provides greatest opportunity for manipulation

Reuse of previously made marker

Ensures grain alignment

Prevent omission of pieces

Automatic marker making

Details of fabric utilization are given on screen

Marker efficiency% of fabric actually used in garment parts

Waste : area not used in garment part

Formula : area used/ total area of fabric *100

PlanimeterA mechanical device that calculates the surface area as the outline of the pattern is traced.Factors that effect marker efficiencyFabric characteristics:

Face

Fabric width

Matching fabric design required

Cond.2. Characteristics of pattern pieces:

Variety of garment sizes

Shape of pattern pieces

Modifications can be done in patterns

Splitting pattern and creating a seamRounding cornersReducing seam allowancesAdjusting grain line for hidden parts

Cond..3. Grain orientation

Pattern of same grain orientation grouped

Tilting specific pieces by 1-2%Cond4. Fabric utilization standards:

Basics 90-97%

Fashion firm 80-85%

SpreadingDefinition

Height of spread in manual and computerized cutting m/c

No of plies low , medium, high ply cutters

Spreading modes Direction of fabric face

Direction of fabric nap

Direction of fabric faceFace to face (F/F)

Face one way (F/O/W) Two types - Face up Face down

Face to faceContinuous spreading

Fastest

Least costly

Used for symmetric, non directional fabrics

Lowest qualityF/O/WTime consuming

Expensive

Fabric is cut at each end

Turn table usage can avoid dead heading

Operator can monitor face for flaws

Helpful in spreading prints, directional. Direction of fabric napNap one way (N/O/W)

Nap up and down (N/U/D)N/O/WAsymmetric

Directional fabric

Most time consuming

Gives best quality

May be F/F or F/O/W F/F is pair spreading

Fabric cut and roll turned for each ply in F/FNap up and downContinuous spreading

Fastest

Least costly

Used for symmetric, non directional fabrics

Lowest quality

Example 1Directional, symmetrical Marker mode : nap one waySpread mode : f/f or face one way ; nap one wayAAAAwarpweftExample 2Directional, Asymmetrical Marker mode : nap one waySpread mode : face one way ; nap one way

BBBBwarpweftExample 3Directional, Asymmetrical Marker mode : nap one waySpread mode : face one way ; nap one way GGGGGGwarpweftExample 4Non - Directional, Symmetrical Marker mode : nap either waySpread mode : face to face ; nap either way

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