Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression...

39
The Australian Wine Research Institute Bob Dambergs 2009 Bob Dambergs “Perfecting Pinot Noir” 15 th AWITC Workshop 1 Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices

Transcript of Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression...

Page 1: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

The Australian Wine

Research Institute

Bob Dambergs

13 March 2009

Bob Dambergs

“Perfecting Pinot Noir”

15th AWITC Workshop 1

Manipulating Pinot Noir

expression in the winery through

novel wine making practices

Page 2: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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Research Institute

Understanding grape and wine

tannins

Grape tannins

•colourless polymeric polyphenols

•precipitate proteins astringent

Red wine tannins

•grape tannins & modified tannins

•plus oak-derived hydrolysable tannins & oenotannins

•include also pigmented tannins (pigmented polymers)

Page 3: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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Research Institute

Anthocyanins

• Colour in grapes and young wine

• Unstable

• Do not last long in wine

Grape to wine colour conversion

Winemaking and Aging

Tannin and Anthocyanins

Pigmented polymers

• Colour in wine

• Tannins with anthocyanin

• Important for long-term

colour stability

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No free anthocyanins in old wines-

pigmented tannins dominate colour

anthocyanins

min0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

mAU

0

200

400

600

800

DAD1 A, Sig=520,16 Ref=off (E:\MP4322\MP432245.D)

2004

2.6

30

-

De

l-3

-G

3.3

07

3.7

85

-

Cya

-3-G

4.7

80

-

Pe

t-3

-G

5.9

19 6.5

22

-

Pe

o-3

-G

7.3

75

-

M-3

-G

8.4

39

9.3

84

-

"Viti

sin

A"

9.6

79

-

De

l-A

-G

11

.07

3 1

1.3

17

11

.80

5

12

.87

7 -

P

et-

A-G

13

.46

8

15

.03

8 -

P

eo

-A-G 1

5.7

73

-

M-A

-G

16

.44

6 1

6.7

98

18

.39

1

19

.25

0 -

P

et-

C-G

21

.47

2 -

P

eo

-C-G

or

Pin

otin

A 2

1.9

41

-

M-C

-G

24

.17

8 -

P

P

pigmented tannins

Vintage 2004 col dens 11.17

hue 0.70

M3G

M3A

G M3C

G

min0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

mAU

-10

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

DAD1 A, Sig=520,16 Ref=off (E:\MP4322\MP432206.D)

1954

21.

525

- P

eo-C

-G o

r P

inot

in A

24.

157

- P

P pigmented tannins

Vintage 1954 col dens 5.50

hue 1.32

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Research Institute

[PP] = 0.06 [ M3G ] + 0.04 [ T ] - 2.88

R2 = 0.92

PP: pigmented polymers

M3G: malvidin 3-glucoside

T: tannins

Can we compensate for low anthocyanins by boosting

tannin to promote pigmented tannin formation?

Predicting wine pigmented

tannin potential

Page 6: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

The Australian Wine

Research Institute Tannins – so what?

Seeds, skins and stalks of

red grapes contain tannins

that control

• Browning

• Colour

• Astringency

• Mouth-feel

• Bitterness

• Protection against oxidation

• Quality

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Research Institute

Tannin correlates with

commercial quality grading

2005-2007 Hardy Shiraz

- but also applied to

Fosters and Orlando

wines

A B C D E F G H I

Quality grade

0

1

2

3

4

5

Ta

nn

in

(g/L

ep

ica

t)

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Research Institute

Tannin and pigment correlate with

“quality”

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

PRICE (USD)

0.3

0.5

0.7

0.9

TA

NN

IN (

g/L

)

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

PRICE (USD)

3

5

7

9

PIG

ME

NT

(A

U)

“One of the ultimate quality

indicators is price”

- Jancis Robinson, ICCS Hobart

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Tannin, pigment and quality:

wine show performance – cluster analysis

Class 18, 2 yo Pinot,

Tasmanian Wineshow

Low pigment,

Low tannin

High pigment

Low tannin

High tannin

Low pigment

Best wines have an ideal

combination of tannin and pigment

High pigment

High tannin

The judges

got it wrong!

See also: Poster 107,

Chittendon & Dambergs,

NZ Syrah

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Research Institute

Tannin and pigment analysis

correlates with sensory

PC-1 (35%) -0.5 -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1

P C

- 2 (

2 1 %

)

-0.6

-0.4

-0.2

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

Bi-plot

111 112

113

114

115

116

117 121

122

123 124

125

126 127

128

211

212

213

214

215

216

217

218

311

312

313

314

315 316

317 318

321

322 323

324 325 326 327

328

411 412

413 414

415 416

417

418

421

422

423

424

425

426

427

428

Colour density

Hue

Pigmented tannin

Total Pigment

Total phenolics

Tannin analysis

Visual Colour,

Cherry

Plum

Spice

Herbal Stalky/sappy

Tannin taste

Fruit flavour

Pinot Massif

destemmed

whole bunch

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“Bob’s modified Somers analysis”

Samples are diluted in a wine-like buffer with

― no additions

― with acetaldehyde added

― with high SO2 added

provides control of pH, ethanol to minimise their effects on colour

samples can be read in 10 mm cuvettes instead of 1 mm

can be adapted for use in a plate reader spectrophotometer

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Simplifed wine analysis

Modified Somers and tannin analysis

• Colour density

• Hue

• Anthocyanin*

• Total pigment*

• Total phenolics*

• Pigmented tannin*

• Total tannin*

*can be analysed with the

AWRI Tannin Portal

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THE METHOD

0.2 mL wine

After incubation

period, transfer

to a cuvette 10 mL 1M HCl

Read at 6 wavelengths

in a UV-Vis

spectrophotometer,

using 1M HCl blank

Calculate

Tannin

Total phenolics

Total Pigment

Additional calculations

Requires an extra sample prep

(dilution in high SO2 buffer)

Free anthocyanin

Pigmented tannin

Page 14: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

The Australian Wine

Research Institute The problem with Pinot phenolics

Low total anthocyanins

No acylated or coumarylated anthocyanins

Grapes have high tannin but it’s mostly seed tannin

Wines have relatively low tannin and colour

14 Cab S

av

Grenach

e

Merlo

t

Pinot Noir

Shiraz

Variety

0.0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

Ta

nnin

(g

/L)

Grape extracts

CAFCAS

DURGRE

MER

NEBPIN

SANSHZ

Variety

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Tannin

(g/L

)

Wine

Page 15: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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Optimising phenolic development

during red wine maceration

Need to synchronise

extraction of anthocyanin

extraction of tannin (skin, seeds and stems?)

availability of active yeast metabolites

promotion of anthocyanin/tannin reactions

to form stable pigments

Page 16: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Small-lot winemaking

The weighbridge

The crusher/destemmer

The tank farm

The Bodum

fermenter/filter/press

Fermentation

monitoring

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Experimental winemaking treatments

Control

Cold macerate 4 days at 4 °C

Extended post-ferment maceration (45 days)

20% juice runoff before fermentation

20% juice runoff , returned in 2 stages near end of ferment

Stems added back

Oak powder added

all innoculated with RC212

submerged cap ferments, 28°C

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Research Institute

Tannin can be manipulated

during fermentation

ExtMac4

5

cold_m

acer

contro

loak

run_re

turn

runoff

stem

s

TREATMENT

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

TA

NN

IN (

g/L

)

TANNIN

ExtMac4

5

cold_m

acer

contro

loak

run_re

turn

runoff

stem

s

TREATMENT

50

55

60

65

70

TO

TA

L P

HE

NO

LIC

S (

AU

)

TOTAL PHENOLICS

Not equivalent to tannin !!

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An example of rapid colour stabilisation

ExtMac4

5

cold_m

acer

contro

loak

run_re

turn

runoff

stem

s

TREATMENT

100

200

300

400

500

600

AN

TH

OC

YA

NIN

(m

g/L

)

ANTHOCYANIN

more stabilised colour !!

ExtMac4

5

cold_m

acer

contro

loak

run_re

turn

runoff

stem

s

TREATMENT

0

1

2

3

4

PIG

ME

NT

ED

TA

NN

IN (

AU

)

PIGMENTED TANNIN

Page 20: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Cluster analysis (PCA)- all samples

Tannin

Hue

Pigmented tannin

Colour density

Anthocyanin

Total pigment

Phenolics

Tannin

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RC 212 control

EC1118

Bayanus: AWRI 1176, AWRI 1375

Hybrids: AWRI Fusion, AWRI 1503

TD+ 1118

Carbonic maceration

White skins

Cold soak, then wild ferment

Cold soak, wild primary, delayed wild malo

Co-fermentation with Pinot Gris or GT

Stalks

Transfusion (run off juice and return near end of ferment)

Moving it to the next level

ICCS Workshop 2-

“Taming the Pinot noir terroir”

with Nick Glaetzer and Jenny Bellon

15th AWITC

Poster 111, Glaetzer et al

Poster 110, Magyar et al

Page 22: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

The Australian Wine

Research Institute Taming tannin

11181176

13751503

1_Fusion

2TD

Amaro

ne

Carbonic

Chard+GT

Cold soak

Delayed co

ld GT

Pinot Gris

Stalks

Transfu

sion

X_Control

0.7

0.8

0.9

1.0

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

1.6

1.7

TA

NN

IN (

g/L

)

White skins or stalks

added had the highest

tannin

Alternative yeasts

lower than RC212

Transfusion higher

than control

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Taming pigmented tannin

11181176

13751503

1_Fusion

2TD

Amaro

ne

Carbonic

Chard+GT

Cold soak

Delayed co

ld GT

Pinot Gris

Stalks

Transfu

sion

X_Control

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5P

IGM

EN

TE

D T

AN

NIN

(A

U)

Cold soak/delayed malo

had highest but it was an

unusual plummy colour

(Hue_SO2 !!)

Elevated with most

alternative yeasts except

for 1176

Elevated when white

skins and stalks added

Elevated with transfusion

Page 24: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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The ratio of pigmented tannin

and total tannin

11181176

13751503

1_Fusion

2TD

Amaro

ne

Carbonic

Chard+GT

Cold soak

Delayed co

ld GT

Pinot Gris

Stalks

Transfu

sion

X_Control

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

Pig

Tannin

/Tannin

Does it affect mouth-feel?

Highest were alternative yeasts

and

cold soak/delayed malo

Page 25: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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Colour density

11181176

13751503

1_Fusion

2TD

Amaro

ne

Carbonic

Chard+GT

Cold soak

Delayed co

ld GT

Pinot Gris

Stalks

Transfu

sion

X_Control

4

5

6

7

8

CO

LO

UR

DE

NS

ITY

(A

U)

Corrected for SO2

High colour density = high visual colour

Cold soak/delayed malo

had highest

Next were white skins and

stalks!!

Most alternative yeast

higher than control but not

1176

Page 26: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

TIAR – research • development • extension • education • training

Anna Carew: microwave maceration and

yeast treatments

15th AWITC Posters 106, 108, 109

Page 27: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

TIAR – research • development • extension • education • training

Yeast strain and total tannin

*Means with the same letter are not significantly different at the p ≤ 0.05 level according to Tukey’s Test.

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

EC1118 RC212 AWRI1176 w-EC1118 T.d-EC1118

Tota

l tan

nin

(gm

/L)

Yeast treatment

a* a

b

c c

Page 28: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Microwave maceration

1. Intermittent microwave

& stirring

3. Hold time in 70C

waterbath 2. Monitor for peak

temperature (70C)

4. Cool to ~24C, inoculate with ADY for AF

TIA/AWRI have conducted 30+ replicated trials of microwave

maceration for since 2010.

Compared with control fermented on skins for 8 days, microwave

wines showed more rapid and effective extraction of phenolics.

Thus far, applied to Pinot noir and Shiraz musts, at laboratory scale

(1kg).

Page 29: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Options for winemakers

Rapid extraction by microwave of phenolics offers

two options:

• EARLY PRESS-OFF: Press-off, cool and

ferment juice (‘mpr’)

• FERMENT ON SKINS: Cool the must and

conduct alcoholic ferment on skins (‘msk’)

Page 30: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Wine phenolics

Different letter denotes significant among treatments within trial (P<0.05)

CTL MSK MPR

Anthocyanins

(mg/L)

292 a 412 b 272 a

Pigmented

tannin (AU)

0.31 a 0.50 b 0.45 b

Total tannin

(g/L)

0.25 a 0.72 b 0.27 a

On skins Early press off

Page 31: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Their are also aroma differences

• PCA scores plot based on 18 volatile aroma compounds measured by GC-

MS

• (informal) sensory appraisal suggests mpr wines are intensely fruity and

aromatic

ctl

vs.

mwv

on

skin

Page 32: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

0.0

1.0

2.0

3.0

4.0

Bottling 6 months

Tannin g/L

LSD

0.0

0.4

0.8

1.2

1.6

Bottling 6 months

Non-bleachable pigment (AU)

LSD 0.05

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

Bottling 6 months

Colour Density (AU)

LSD

cut cap D1 cap not cut cut cap D3 cut cap D5

Angela Sparrow: Poster 101

Selective skin maceration to

enhance extraction

Page 33: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

0

1

2

Bottling 6 months 12 months

Non-bleachable pigment (AU)

PN Control

PN & Ferm seed

PN & GS tannin

LSD0.05

(b)

0

0.5

1

1.5

Bottling 6 months

Day seeds removed:

Non- bleachable pigment (AU)

Nil 1 3 5

0

5

10

15

Bottling 6 months 12 months

% Non-bleachable pigment

seeded seedless

LSD0.05

(a) (c)

Angela Sparrow: Poster 102

The influence of seeds

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Angela Sparrow: Poster 104

Adding fresh white pomace

Page 35: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

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Extended maceration wines have high tannin and a high degree of colour stabilisation

Cold maceration favours colour extraction

Juice runoff (saignee) results in higher tannin and colour but favours colour more

Running off juice and returning it later during ferment (transfusion) increases tannin and

stable colour

The selection of yeast strain has dramatic effects on tannin and colour

Boosting tannin with a non-pigmented source (eg stems, white skins) can also increase

colour but is it stable long-term?

Is there a place for microwave maceration? Can this create a new winemaking paradigm?

Do we really want seed tannin? How can we enhance skin tannin extraction?

The winemaking control points

Page 36: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

The Australian Wine

Research Institute

Bob Dambergs

13 March 2009

Pinot noir tannin, total colour and colour

stabilisation can be strongly influenced by

maceration/vinification methods, including the choice

of yeast

For a given parcel of grapes, tannin in particular, can

be doubled through manipulating vinification :

THE FINAL WORDS

“turning on the tap”

Page 37: Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through novel wine making practices. The Australian Wine Research

Acknowledgments

The ICIP Consortium AWRI, Croplands, Flextank, Tamar Ridge, TIA, Wine Tasmania

Industry contributors Clover Hill, Frogmore Creek, Jansz, Josef Chromy,

Meadowbank, Moorilla, Pooley, Tamar Ridge, Tolpuddle,

Winemaking Tasmania

The funding bodies

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References

Modified Somers method Mercurio, M.D.; Dambergs, R.G.; Herderich, M.J.; Smith, P.A. (2007) High throughput analysis of red wine and grape

phenolics- adaptation and validation of methyl cellulose precipitable tannin assay and modified Somers color assay to a

rapid 96 well plate format. J. Agric. Food Chem., 55: 4651–4657

Tannin method Dambergs, R.G., Mercurio, M.D., Kassara, S., Cozzolino, D., Smith, P.A. (2012) Rapid measurement of methyl

cellulose precipitable tannins using ultraviolet spectroscopy with chemometrics – application to red wine and inter-

laboratory calibration transfer. Applied Spectroscopy, 66: 656-664

Tannin and wine quality Mercurio, M.D., Dambergs, R.G., Cozzolino, D., Herderich, M.J, Smith, P. A. (2010) Relationship between red wine

grades and phenolics 1. tannin and total phenolics concentrations. J. Agric. Food Chem., 58: 12313–12319.

Pinot Maceration Dambergs R.G., Sparrow, A.M., Carew, A.L., Scrimgeour, N., Wilkes, E., Godden, P.W., Herderich, M.J., Johnson, D.

(2012) Quality in a Cold Climate – Maceration Techniques in Pinot Noir Production. Wine and Viticulture Journal, 27 (3):

18, 20-26.

Microwave maceration Carew, A. L., A. M. Sparrow, et al. (2013). "Microwave Maceration of Pinot Noir Grape Must: Sanitation and Extraction

Effects and Wine Phenolics Outcomes." Food and Bioprocess Technology 6(5): online.

Yeast effects Carew, A., Smith, P., Dambergs, R. Yeast selection impacts phenolics in Pinot noir. (2012). Australian and New

Zealand Grapegrower and Winemaker, 581: 70-72.

Coffee plunger ferments Dambergs, R.G., Sparrow, A. (2011). The “Bodum French Press”: a simple, reliable small-lot red wine fermentation

method. Blair, R.J.; Lee, T.H.; Pretorius, I.S. (eds) Proceedings of the fourteenth Australian wine industry technical

conference, 3–8 July 2010, Adelaide, SA: Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference Inc., Adelaide, SA. Page 353.