Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression...
Transcript of Manipulating Pinot Noir expression in the winery through ... · Manipulating Pinot Noir expression...
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Bob Dambergs
13 March 2009
Bob Dambergs
“Perfecting Pinot Noir”
15th AWITC Workshop 1
Manipulating Pinot Noir
expression in the winery through
novel wine making practices
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Understanding grape and wine
tannins
Grape tannins
•colourless polymeric polyphenols
•precipitate proteins astringent
Red wine tannins
•grape tannins & modified tannins
•plus oak-derived hydrolysable tannins & oenotannins
•include also pigmented tannins (pigmented polymers)
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Anthocyanins
• Colour in grapes and young wine
• Unstable
• Do not last long in wine
Grape to wine colour conversion
Winemaking and Aging
Tannin and Anthocyanins
Pigmented polymers
• Colour in wine
• Tannins with anthocyanin
• Important for long-term
colour stability
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
No free anthocyanins in old wines-
pigmented tannins dominate colour
anthocyanins
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P
pigmented tannins
Vintage 2004 col dens 11.17
hue 0.70
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P pigmented tannins
Vintage 1954 col dens 5.50
hue 1.32
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
[PP] = 0.06 [ M3G ] + 0.04 [ T ] - 2.88
R2 = 0.92
PP: pigmented polymers
M3G: malvidin 3-glucoside
T: tannins
Can we compensate for low anthocyanins by boosting
tannin to promote pigmented tannin formation?
Predicting wine pigmented
tannin potential
The Australian Wine
Research Institute Tannins – so what?
Seeds, skins and stalks of
red grapes contain tannins
that control
• Browning
• Colour
• Astringency
• Mouth-feel
• Bitterness
• Protection against oxidation
• Quality
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Tannin correlates with
commercial quality grading
2005-2007 Hardy Shiraz
- but also applied to
Fosters and Orlando
wines
A B C D E F G H I
Quality grade
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Ta
nn
in
(g/L
ep
ica
t)
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Tannin and pigment correlate with
“quality”
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PRICE (USD)
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g/L
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PRICE (USD)
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PIG
ME
NT
(A
U)
“One of the ultimate quality
indicators is price”
- Jancis Robinson, ICCS Hobart
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Tannin, pigment and quality:
wine show performance – cluster analysis
Class 18, 2 yo Pinot,
Tasmanian Wineshow
Low pigment,
Low tannin
High pigment
Low tannin
High tannin
Low pigment
Best wines have an ideal
combination of tannin and pigment
High pigment
High tannin
The judges
got it wrong!
See also: Poster 107,
Chittendon & Dambergs,
NZ Syrah
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Tannin and pigment analysis
correlates with sensory
PC-1 (35%) -0.5 -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1
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Bi-plot
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Colour density
Hue
Pigmented tannin
Total Pigment
Total phenolics
Tannin analysis
Visual Colour,
Cherry
Plum
Spice
Herbal Stalky/sappy
Tannin taste
Fruit flavour
Pinot Massif
destemmed
whole bunch
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Research Institute
“Bob’s modified Somers analysis”
Samples are diluted in a wine-like buffer with
― no additions
― with acetaldehyde added
― with high SO2 added
provides control of pH, ethanol to minimise their effects on colour
samples can be read in 10 mm cuvettes instead of 1 mm
can be adapted for use in a plate reader spectrophotometer
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Simplifed wine analysis
Modified Somers and tannin analysis
• Colour density
• Hue
• Anthocyanin*
• Total pigment*
• Total phenolics*
• Pigmented tannin*
• Total tannin*
*can be analysed with the
AWRI Tannin Portal
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
THE METHOD
0.2 mL wine
After incubation
period, transfer
to a cuvette 10 mL 1M HCl
Read at 6 wavelengths
in a UV-Vis
spectrophotometer,
using 1M HCl blank
Calculate
Tannin
Total phenolics
Total Pigment
Additional calculations
Requires an extra sample prep
(dilution in high SO2 buffer)
Free anthocyanin
Pigmented tannin
The Australian Wine
Research Institute The problem with Pinot phenolics
Low total anthocyanins
No acylated or coumarylated anthocyanins
Grapes have high tannin but it’s mostly seed tannin
Wines have relatively low tannin and colour
14 Cab S
av
Grenach
e
Merlo
t
Pinot Noir
Shiraz
Variety
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Grape extracts
CAFCAS
DURGRE
MER
NEBPIN
SANSHZ
Variety
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Tannin
(g/L
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Wine
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Optimising phenolic development
during red wine maceration
Need to synchronise
extraction of anthocyanin
extraction of tannin (skin, seeds and stems?)
availability of active yeast metabolites
promotion of anthocyanin/tannin reactions
to form stable pigments
Small-lot winemaking
The weighbridge
The crusher/destemmer
The tank farm
The Bodum
fermenter/filter/press
Fermentation
monitoring
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Research Institute
Experimental winemaking treatments
Control
Cold macerate 4 days at 4 °C
Extended post-ferment maceration (45 days)
20% juice runoff before fermentation
20% juice runoff , returned in 2 stages near end of ferment
Stems added back
Oak powder added
all innoculated with RC212
submerged cap ferments, 28°C
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Tannin can be manipulated
during fermentation
ExtMac4
5
cold_m
acer
contro
loak
run_re
turn
runoff
stem
s
TREATMENT
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g/L
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TANNIN
ExtMac4
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cold_m
acer
contro
loak
run_re
turn
runoff
stem
s
TREATMENT
50
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TO
TA
L P
HE
NO
LIC
S (
AU
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TOTAL PHENOLICS
Not equivalent to tannin !!
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
An example of rapid colour stabilisation
ExtMac4
5
cold_m
acer
contro
loak
run_re
turn
runoff
stem
s
TREATMENT
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AN
TH
OC
YA
NIN
(m
g/L
)
ANTHOCYANIN
more stabilised colour !!
ExtMac4
5
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acer
contro
loak
run_re
turn
runoff
stem
s
TREATMENT
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ME
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TA
NN
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AU
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PIGMENTED TANNIN
Cluster analysis (PCA)- all samples
Tannin
Hue
Pigmented tannin
Colour density
Anthocyanin
Total pigment
Phenolics
Tannin
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
RC 212 control
EC1118
Bayanus: AWRI 1176, AWRI 1375
Hybrids: AWRI Fusion, AWRI 1503
TD+ 1118
Carbonic maceration
White skins
Cold soak, then wild ferment
Cold soak, wild primary, delayed wild malo
Co-fermentation with Pinot Gris or GT
Stalks
Transfusion (run off juice and return near end of ferment)
Moving it to the next level
ICCS Workshop 2-
“Taming the Pinot noir terroir”
with Nick Glaetzer and Jenny Bellon
15th AWITC
Poster 111, Glaetzer et al
Poster 110, Magyar et al
The Australian Wine
Research Institute Taming tannin
11181176
13751503
1_Fusion
2TD
Amaro
ne
Carbonic
Chard+GT
Cold soak
Delayed co
ld GT
Pinot Gris
Stalks
Transfu
sion
X_Control
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TA
NN
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g/L
)
White skins or stalks
added had the highest
tannin
Alternative yeasts
lower than RC212
Transfusion higher
than control
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Taming pigmented tannin
11181176
13751503
1_Fusion
2TD
Amaro
ne
Carbonic
Chard+GT
Cold soak
Delayed co
ld GT
Pinot Gris
Stalks
Transfu
sion
X_Control
1.0
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2.5P
IGM
EN
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D T
AN
NIN
(A
U)
Cold soak/delayed malo
had highest but it was an
unusual plummy colour
(Hue_SO2 !!)
Elevated with most
alternative yeasts except
for 1176
Elevated when white
skins and stalks added
Elevated with transfusion
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Research Institute
The ratio of pigmented tannin
and total tannin
11181176
13751503
1_Fusion
2TD
Amaro
ne
Carbonic
Chard+GT
Cold soak
Delayed co
ld GT
Pinot Gris
Stalks
Transfu
sion
X_Control
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
Pig
Tannin
/Tannin
Does it affect mouth-feel?
Highest were alternative yeasts
and
cold soak/delayed malo
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Research Institute
Colour density
11181176
13751503
1_Fusion
2TD
Amaro
ne
Carbonic
Chard+GT
Cold soak
Delayed co
ld GT
Pinot Gris
Stalks
Transfu
sion
X_Control
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5
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CO
LO
UR
DE
NS
ITY
(A
U)
Corrected for SO2
High colour density = high visual colour
Cold soak/delayed malo
had highest
Next were white skins and
stalks!!
Most alternative yeast
higher than control but not
1176
TIAR – research • development • extension • education • training
Anna Carew: microwave maceration and
yeast treatments
15th AWITC Posters 106, 108, 109
TIAR – research • development • extension • education • training
Yeast strain and total tannin
*Means with the same letter are not significantly different at the p ≤ 0.05 level according to Tukey’s Test.
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EC1118 RC212 AWRI1176 w-EC1118 T.d-EC1118
Tota
l tan
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Yeast treatment
a* a
b
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Microwave maceration
1. Intermittent microwave
& stirring
3. Hold time in 70C
waterbath 2. Monitor for peak
temperature (70C)
4. Cool to ~24C, inoculate with ADY for AF
TIA/AWRI have conducted 30+ replicated trials of microwave
maceration for since 2010.
Compared with control fermented on skins for 8 days, microwave
wines showed more rapid and effective extraction of phenolics.
Thus far, applied to Pinot noir and Shiraz musts, at laboratory scale
(1kg).
Options for winemakers
Rapid extraction by microwave of phenolics offers
two options:
• EARLY PRESS-OFF: Press-off, cool and
ferment juice (‘mpr’)
• FERMENT ON SKINS: Cool the must and
conduct alcoholic ferment on skins (‘msk’)
Wine phenolics
Different letter denotes significant among treatments within trial (P<0.05)
CTL MSK MPR
Anthocyanins
(mg/L)
292 a 412 b 272 a
Pigmented
tannin (AU)
0.31 a 0.50 b 0.45 b
Total tannin
(g/L)
0.25 a 0.72 b 0.27 a
On skins Early press off
Their are also aroma differences
• PCA scores plot based on 18 volatile aroma compounds measured by GC-
MS
• (informal) sensory appraisal suggests mpr wines are intensely fruity and
aromatic
ctl
vs.
mwv
on
skin
0.0
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4.0
Bottling 6 months
Tannin g/L
LSD
0.0
0.4
0.8
1.2
1.6
Bottling 6 months
Non-bleachable pigment (AU)
LSD 0.05
0.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
8.0
Bottling 6 months
Colour Density (AU)
LSD
cut cap D1 cap not cut cut cap D3 cut cap D5
Angela Sparrow: Poster 101
Selective skin maceration to
enhance extraction
0
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Bottling 6 months 12 months
Non-bleachable pigment (AU)
PN Control
PN & Ferm seed
PN & GS tannin
LSD0.05
(b)
0
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1
1.5
Bottling 6 months
Day seeds removed:
Non- bleachable pigment (AU)
Nil 1 3 5
0
5
10
15
Bottling 6 months 12 months
% Non-bleachable pigment
seeded seedless
LSD0.05
(a) (c)
Angela Sparrow: Poster 102
The influence of seeds
Angela Sparrow: Poster 104
Adding fresh white pomace
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Extended maceration wines have high tannin and a high degree of colour stabilisation
Cold maceration favours colour extraction
Juice runoff (saignee) results in higher tannin and colour but favours colour more
Running off juice and returning it later during ferment (transfusion) increases tannin and
stable colour
The selection of yeast strain has dramatic effects on tannin and colour
Boosting tannin with a non-pigmented source (eg stems, white skins) can also increase
colour but is it stable long-term?
Is there a place for microwave maceration? Can this create a new winemaking paradigm?
Do we really want seed tannin? How can we enhance skin tannin extraction?
The winemaking control points
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
Bob Dambergs
13 March 2009
Pinot noir tannin, total colour and colour
stabilisation can be strongly influenced by
maceration/vinification methods, including the choice
of yeast
For a given parcel of grapes, tannin in particular, can
be doubled through manipulating vinification :
THE FINAL WORDS
“turning on the tap”
Acknowledgments
The ICIP Consortium AWRI, Croplands, Flextank, Tamar Ridge, TIA, Wine Tasmania
Industry contributors Clover Hill, Frogmore Creek, Jansz, Josef Chromy,
Meadowbank, Moorilla, Pooley, Tamar Ridge, Tolpuddle,
Winemaking Tasmania
The funding bodies
The Australian Wine
Research Institute
References
Modified Somers method Mercurio, M.D.; Dambergs, R.G.; Herderich, M.J.; Smith, P.A. (2007) High throughput analysis of red wine and grape
phenolics- adaptation and validation of methyl cellulose precipitable tannin assay and modified Somers color assay to a
rapid 96 well plate format. J. Agric. Food Chem., 55: 4651–4657
Tannin method Dambergs, R.G., Mercurio, M.D., Kassara, S., Cozzolino, D., Smith, P.A. (2012) Rapid measurement of methyl
cellulose precipitable tannins using ultraviolet spectroscopy with chemometrics – application to red wine and inter-
laboratory calibration transfer. Applied Spectroscopy, 66: 656-664
Tannin and wine quality Mercurio, M.D., Dambergs, R.G., Cozzolino, D., Herderich, M.J, Smith, P. A. (2010) Relationship between red wine
grades and phenolics 1. tannin and total phenolics concentrations. J. Agric. Food Chem., 58: 12313–12319.
Pinot Maceration Dambergs R.G., Sparrow, A.M., Carew, A.L., Scrimgeour, N., Wilkes, E., Godden, P.W., Herderich, M.J., Johnson, D.
(2012) Quality in a Cold Climate – Maceration Techniques in Pinot Noir Production. Wine and Viticulture Journal, 27 (3):
18, 20-26.
Microwave maceration Carew, A. L., A. M. Sparrow, et al. (2013). "Microwave Maceration of Pinot Noir Grape Must: Sanitation and Extraction
Effects and Wine Phenolics Outcomes." Food and Bioprocess Technology 6(5): online.
Yeast effects Carew, A., Smith, P., Dambergs, R. Yeast selection impacts phenolics in Pinot noir. (2012). Australian and New
Zealand Grapegrower and Winemaker, 581: 70-72.
Coffee plunger ferments Dambergs, R.G., Sparrow, A. (2011). The “Bodum French Press”: a simple, reliable small-lot red wine fermentation
method. Blair, R.J.; Lee, T.H.; Pretorius, I.S. (eds) Proceedings of the fourteenth Australian wine industry technical
conference, 3–8 July 2010, Adelaide, SA: Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference Inc., Adelaide, SA. Page 353.