Making a 7/16 -10 Acme Left Hand Tap
Transcript of Making a 7/16 -10 Acme Left Hand Tap
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By Gerry Goldberg as told to R. G. Sparber
Pictures by Neil Butterfield
Copyleft protects this article1.
On 8/13/2011 the Valley Metal Club of Phoenix convened at the shop of Gerry
Goldberg. Gerry is a master machinist with skills in many areas. On this particular
day, he taught us how to make a tap.
1You are feel to copy and distribute this article but not change it.
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Before we arrived, Gerry had turned a tap blank from O-1 tool steel. When we
arrived, he had the blank between centers and had ground a HSS cutter to theprofile of an Acme thread. Dimensions can be found in the MachinerysHandbook.
This O-1 tool steel is rather tough so Gerry started by taking 0.003 per pass until
the cutter started to load up. Then he went to 0.002 per pass. After a few passes hetook only 0.001 per pass. It was slow going but you can see that he is getting
excellent results. He is using Tap Magicas his cutting fluid.
Gerry pointed out that this same cutter can be used to make worm gears.
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He is making the tap because one of his lathes cross feed nut is worn out. He haspulled the lead screw and is using the 3 wire method to measure its thread size. The
tap will be cut to match it.
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Here he is applying the same 3 wires to the tap and will mic it.
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When the thread is finally done, it is time to cut the two flutes. Ideally he wouldsupport the end of the tap with a jack but did not have one handy. So instead he
will be taking 0.01 deep cuts for a total depth of 0.1.
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The 3/16 ball end mill has been carefully centered on the longitudinal axis of thetap and is ready to cut the first flute.
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Here is the first flute. The top edges are very sharp.
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The second flute is now being cut.
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Here is the tap fully machined. Gerry next ground a bright spot on the square sharkto make it easier to see color changes during heat treating.
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A can full of old oil is ready toquench the tap. Gerry is using
an Oxy-Acetylene torch toevenly heat the tap. Care must
be taken not to heat the part somuch that those sharp edges
burn off. If sparks are seen, tinybits of metal are being lost.
The edge can be restored by
grinding if necessary.
The tap is heated to cherry redbut only around the threads. Theshank is left un-hardened.
Towards the end of the heating,Gerry put the tap on some fire
bricks.
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When the proper temperature was reached, the tap was plunged into the oil. If fully
submerged, there will be minimal flame. You can buy special quenching oil thatdoes not flame much.
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The tap is too hot to handle but has now been fully quenched and is ready forgrinding.
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First Gerry runs it under the tap for final cooling.
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Using a diamond coated wheel, back relief is ground into the end of the tap. This
could be done with a surface grinder but free hand is fine.
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The cutting edge is right at the flute and the perimeter behind it has been groundaway a little to provide the necessary back relief.
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The tap is now very hard and can snap if stressed. So to give the tap back a little
flexibility, Gerry will use a MAPP gas torch to bring the tap up to straw color
which is around 400 F. We all watched as Gerry got it to the right color. I for onecould not tell when it was straw color. All I know is that if it turns blue, you went
too far and must start over with hardening.
Once the proper temperature is reached, Gerry quenched the tap in oil to stop the
annealing process. Then the tap was again cooled in water.
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The final step was to use a diamond coated wheel to cut some relief inside each of
the flutes.
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The second flutes relief has
cutting point. Remember, th
r Page 18 of 21 A
not been cut yet. This is an end view lo
is is a left hand tap.
gust 22, 2011
king into the
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Here is the first trial of the tap going through brass. It is a left hand tap so it is easyto forget and turn it the wrong way.
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As a final test, the leadscrew is threaded through the hole.
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Well, the next time I need some crazy size tap, I will certainly try to make itmyself.
Rick Sparber (ghost writing for Gerry).