M A H A K U M B H M E L A 2 0 1 3photographs & text by Kristjan - Jaak Tammsaar

India is a vast ancient land of thousands of deities, now coming of age, with its first Mars mission expected to launch as early as next year. While the nation is staking its claim in space, much of India still lives according to the customs and traditions that ruled the land thousands of years ago.

While the concept of ‘a pilgrimage’ has become almost extinct in Westernvocabulary, every year tens of millions of Hindus undertake painstaking journeys around the country, seeking spiritual insight. Of the many ‘yatras’, none isconsidered as sacred as the Maha Kumbh Mela that takes place every 12 years.

The ‘Mela’ (‘gathering’ in Sanskrit) alternates between four holy cities but it is the one in Allahabad that is considered most auspicious because of its location at the confluence of the three holy rivers - the mother Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati. It is believed that during the Mela the rivers turn intopurifying nectar and dipping oneself in the water will wash away lifetimes of karmic debt, thus literally providing a shortcut to ‘nirvana’, the eventualliberation from the cycle of birth and death.

The last Kumbh Mela in Allahabad, in 2001, saw 30 million people bathe in the rivers on the opening day of the Mela, reported to be the record number of people gathering in a single day in the history of the world. As the number of pilgrims has been increasing manifold, 2013 may well see this record broken.

For one and half months the barren riverbanks will transform into a sprawling tent city filled with religious debates, spiritual teachings and devotional singing. The auspicious occasion will see gurus, sadhus and saints from all over India gather together to share their wisdom and knowledge. From the masters of wealthy ashrams who arrive with an army of disciples, to solitary yogis whodescend from their ice-bound Himalayan caves, Kumbh Mela brings together the most incredible variety of spiritual teachers anywhere in the world.

Religious myths aside, what drives millions to suspend the rat-race and take on this arduous journey, seeking the guidance of men who have set out to discover the deepest secrets of one’s own mind? While we may have conquered the secret of space-flight and developed enough elaborate weaponry to destroy the planet many times over, our actions are frequently still guided by the turmoil of our restless minds with its crude primeval urges. By often focusing on nothing but external, we seem to have dangerously neglected our innermost world,and despite the tremendous technological leaps, we increasingly find ourselves left wanting and unfulfilled, wondering about our purpose.

It’s my good fortune to have been acquainted with meditation. The fifty days of my life that I’ve spent in retreat from the society, slowly taming my mind for10 hours a day, have been a mere scratch on the surface, yet a permanent one.I fear that until we give these ancient techniques, often misunderstood in the West, a fair chance, our progress may continue to be one-sided as no culture or civilization possesses the monopoly on truth.

So it is that I want to return to the source of many of these teachings andtechniques, to portray and question the men who have often chosen to live a life so different to ours that they might as well be members of a different species.If the West is to grow and mature holistically, it may be time to acknowledge that rather than seeing the Orient as a juvenile savage in desperate need of our guidance and help, it might be more beneficial to see this interaction as thebarter of equals, with strengths and weaknesses evident on both sides.

“It is wonderful, the power of a faith like that, that can make multitudes upon multitudes of the old and weak and the young and frail enter without hesitation orcomplaint upon such incredible journeys and endure the resultant miseries without repining. It is done in love, or it is done in fear; I do not know which it is. No matter what the impulse is, the act born of it is beyond imagination, marvelous to our kindof people, the cold whites.” - Mark Twain, 1895

A young girl, dressed to resemble the monkey god Hanuman, takes a break from asking for alms. Udaipur, Rajasthan. January 2008While westerners have been heading to India in growing numbers since the creation of the ‘Hippie Trail’ in 1960s, often in search of spiritual wisdom, the counter-influence has mostly manifested itself in anesthetized Western pop culture and Big Brand commodities. Whereas back in the West there is increasing talk of marking junk food and soft drinks with warning labels similar to cigarettes, many Indians remain innocently oblivious to the harmful nature of these substances.

Galtaji temple is an ancient pilgrimage site, widely known by its large tribe of monkeys. Khaniya-Balaji, Rajasthan. January 2008As monkeys are widely recognized to be the descendants of Lord Hanuman, an ape-like humanoid and one of the most popular of Hindudeities, no harm comes to them and rhesus macaques have become an inseparable sight of many Indian temples. At the same time, the monkey symbolizes several deficient characteristics of the mind, such as the tendency to attachment and restlessness.

Sacred cows rest on the shore of the Pushkar Lake in one of the oldest existing cities in India. Pushkar, Rajasthan. January 2008Cows are the most revered animals in Hinduism and recognized to be the living symbol of Mother Earth for it has long provided milk, butter, manure and fuel in the form of cow-dung, thus being an indispensable member of many families. Over time Hindus stopped eating beef and killing a cow became a taboo. Nowadays it is not rare to witness the sight of a cow ruminating in the middle of a busy junction in the major city, while the flow of traffic adjusts itself, leaving the animal undisturbed.

A hindu man performs an early-morning Puja by the Pushkar Lake. Pushkar, Rajasthan. January 2008Puja stands for reverence, honour and adoration in Sanskrit and is a religious ritual performed as an offering to various deities or distinguished guests. Puja can vary in its shape and size, from a small daily ritual to an elaborate ceremonial setup, but the concept of the ritual is always to receive a blessing through the act of giving a gift or an offering to a deity or important person.

Tridents of Lord Shiva, one of the major Hindu deities, reach to the sky in Himalayan foothills. Naddi, Himachal Pradesh. January 2008Shiva is the Destroyer or Transformer in the Hindu Trinity of the primary aspects of the divine, next to Brahma the Creator and Vishnu thePreserver. Together they form the Trimurti, personifying the cosmic functions of creation, maintenance and destruction. ‘The Trident’ is heavy with symbolism but in the hands of Shiva it aims to destroy the three worlds: the physical world, the world of forefathers (culture) and the world of the mind (sensing and acting) to take us back to the singular plane of existence - the pure bliss that is free of dualities.

Pilgrims change from flip flops on top of the 4342m pass to prepare for descent into snow. Indrahar Pass, Himachal Pradesh. August 2010The young Hindu pilgrims embarked from Dharamsala in Kangra Valley to cross to the adjacent Chamba Valley on their way to the Manimahesh ‘Yatra’ (pilgrimage). The last night was spent camping in the Lahesh cave at 3475m, a popular overnight spot that easily sleeps a dozen people. As a sign of respect for Lord Shiva, who is a vegetarian, the boys abstain from taking meat for the duration of their pilgrimage.

People travel on the roof of the bus towards the starting point of the Manimahesh Yatra. Bharmour, Himachal Pradesh. September 2010The high altitude Manimahesh Lake at the foot of the Manimahesh Kailash Peak has a religious significance equivalent to that of the LakeManasarovar in Tibet. The Manimahesh Yatra has been declared a state-level pilgrimage by the Government of Himachal Pradesh. For most of the year the place remains utterly desolate as noone dares to stay there. Neither is there almost any fauna - no ants, snakes or any kind of wild life, even birds are said to be sighted rarely.

A man carries his son on the Manimahesh Yatra, having set out from the village of Hadsar. Bharmour, Himachal Pradesh. September 2010For most people, it will take two days to reach the Manimahesh Lake at 4080m from the village of Hadsar at an altitude of around 2280m. While the bulk of pilgrims take the journey on foot, the older and lazier pay to be taken up on horseback. The wealthiest opt for a shortcut to theenlightenment, reminded by the constant whir of helicopters overhead, commuting non-stop from the adjacent cities.

A sadhu has set up his shelter by the path to the Manimahesh Lake. Bharmour, Himachal Pradesh. September 2010Sadhus are wandering monks, ascetics who have renounced the material life to focus on their own spiritual practice. There are around 4-5 million sadhus in India today and it is widely believed that their austere practices help to burn off not only their own karma, but also that ofthe community at large. As Indian culture tends to emphasize an infinite number of paths to God, sadhus also come in all sorts of differentgarments and denominations.

Children line the path, dressed as Hindu deities to solicit donations from the passersby. Bharmour, Himachal Pradesh. September 2010In 2009, the Manimahesh Trust was created with the goal of helping the least privileged children across the country. Recognizing that education is the key to breaking the cycle of poverty, Manimahesh Trust aims to help the underprivileged attain a reasonable level in English, hoping to elevate them to a position where they would not be discriminated against.

Many pilgrims wear orange, the colour of inner transformation and burning of one’s ego. Bharmour, Himachal Pradesh. September 2010On many of the Indian yatras, free canteens line the roads. Subsidised by the wealthy Hindus, these ‘langars’ often collectively feed hundreds of thousands of pilgrims for free, regardless of one’s caste or background.

Sadhus line the Manimahesh Lake at the foot of the sacred Manimahesh Kailash peak at 5653 metres. Himachal Pradesh. September 2010Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of Manimahesh Yatra, is believed to reside in Mount Kailash and the phallic rock formation in the shape of a Shiva ‘lingam’ on the mountain is considered to be his manifestation. The pilgrims take a dip in the lake that sprang out from the matted hair of Lord Shiva, according to the legend that saw him perform a penance for several hundred years on this spot.

The modern Indian pilgrim is as likely to carry a smartphone as he is to carry a Shiva’s trident. Himachal Pradesh. September 2010It is believed that the devotees can have a view of the Kailash peak only if the Lord is pleased, whereas bad weather is a sign of Shiva’s displeasure. The mountain is considered invincible, and allegedly no man has been able to scale this peak despite its relatively low altitude. According to one story a shepherd once tried to climb the mountain along with his herd of sheep and they were all turned into stone. The series of minor peaks visible below the principal peak are believed to be the remains of the ill-fated shepherd and his flock.

A covered walkway winds towards Vaishno Devi Mandir, one of the most revered shrines in India. Jammu and Kashmir. September 2010Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Ji is known as the Mother Goddess who fulfills whatever Her children wish for to be. Up to one crore (10 million)pilgrims visit the Goddess’s abode annually, hidden away in the holy Trikuta Hills, ancient enough to have been referenced in the Vedas. There are no statues or idols inside the cave, it is believed that the Goddess shed off her human form and assumed the face of a rock, immersing herself in meditation forever. Thus three natural rock formations, Pindies, represent the Mother Goddess in her creative, preservative and destructive aspects.

A woman sits in a prayer by the river Ganges - the living Goddess embracing the oldest city in India. Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. December 2010Varanasi, also commonly known as Benares, is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is regarded as a sacred city by Hindus, Buddhists and Jains alike, and thus deservedly stands equal with the likes of Jerusalem and Mecca. According to the legend, the city was founded by Lord Shiva thousands of years ago and it is believed to be standing on Shiva’s Trident. The flow of flower garlands and floating candles on the river never stops - humble offerings to the manifestation of the living Goddess, affectionately referred to as Maa Ganga.

A highly choreographed Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place daily throughout the year. Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. December 2010Be it rain, hail, or shine, every evening when the dusk descends over the Ganges, an elaborate ritual is being performed. Ganga Aarti is adevotional ritual that uses fire as an offering. Whether in the form of a lit lamp or a shivering candle, the fire is believed to acquire the power of the deity. When the ritual is complete, and before the offerings are released to their source, devotees cup their hands over the flame and raise their palms to their forehead in order to receive the Goddess’s purification and blessing.

An old Hindu man stands in audience to the daily Ganga Aarti ceremony by the river Ganges. Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. December 2010“Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” - Mark Twain

Birds sweep across the river while a solitary figure sits in meditation with the living Goddess. Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. December 2010Thousands throng to Varanasi in pursuit of spiritual enlightenment and religious learning, while just as many set out towards the city on thetwilight of their lives, hoping to reach the Ganges before their last breath. Manikarnika burning ghat is where every Hindu aspires to becremated so that his ashes could be returned to the embrace of the living Goddess, providing the soul with Moksha (liberation). Unlike in West, where death is often stigmatized and a taboo, it is seen in India as an integral part of living itself and thus not hidden from the public eye.

Rishikesh, “the world capital of Yoga” has become a spiritual school to many foreigners. Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. January 2011Rishikesh is also known as The Gateway to the Himalayas and it is here that the sacred Ganges leaves behind the mountains and flows out into the plains of northern India, supplying water to hundreds of millions of people. Rishikesh has been a magnet for spiritual seekers since the end of 1960s, when Beatles spent time here in an ashram, during one of the band’s most productive periods. Today, yoga centers and ashrams standalternately with Internet cafes and multi-cuisine kitchens, and in a city of mere 75,000 one can hear dozens of languages at any given moment.

A graceful statue of Lord Shiva in meditation on a small pier stretching above the river Ganges. Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. January 2011Rishikesh is very New Age, and while that may be an issue for more orthodox seekers, the small city is a successful example of the confluence of occidental and oriental cultures. While non-vegetarian food is banned in the city, dishes from all corners of the world are available, having been adapted to the rule. Popcorn is being sold side-by-side with fresh fruit and vegetables, while Hindu devotional songs mix easily with the latest Western ambient tunes.

The vast Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram now lies derelict, re-claimed by the sprawling nature. Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. January 2011In 1968, The Beatles spent time in the ashram, attending an advanced Transcendental Meditation training session. Some have later said that the Beatle’s attendance with its surrounding media attention may have almost single-handedly sparked the wider interest and study of Easternspirituality in the Western society and popular culture. The Beatles soon left, following financial disagreements and rumours of inappropriate behaviour by the Maharishi, though the men reconciliated with the guru years later. Maharishi himself left India in the 1970s due to tax issues.

The barren sandbanks of Triveni Sangam transform into a tent-city during the annual Magh Mela. Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. January 2011The Mela grounds cover 3600 acres of land along the Ganges, with pontoon bridges laid across the river and temporary water and power lines installed for the duration of the festival. For example, the 1989 Kumbh Mela preparations included 6000 electrical poles, 16,000 outlets, 6000 round-the-clock sanitation employees, 13,500 latrines, 22 fire fighting stations, 300 lifeguards, 100 doctors and nurses on call round-the-clock and 20,000 policemen and Indian National Guard members.

Pilgrims gather for a dip in the Ganges on the first bathing day of the annual Magh Mela. Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. January 2011The Magh Mela is considered to be the biggest annual religious fair in India, yet it’s completely dwarfed by the magnitude of the grand Maha Kumbh Mela once every 12 years. The Magh Mela fair is organised every year during the Hindu month of Magh, though it extends beyond that with the important bathing dates spread over a period of 45 days.

A woman performs a Puja at the Triveni Sangam during the annual Magh Mela celebrations. Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. January 2011The Ganges is believed to be not only a sacred river but the source of all sacred waters. Many thus consider Triveni Sangam, the confluence of the three most sacred rivers in Hindu mythology - the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati - to be the holiest place in India. The mythical riverSaraswati is invisible and is said to flow beneath the earth, joining the other two from below, while the muddy and pale yellow water of Ganges can be clearly seen merging with the green waters of Yamuna.

The paths are lined by the destitute, looking for alms of food during the annual Magh Mela. Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. January 2011Such a grand event also inevitably attracts professional beggars who have specially travelled from the surrounding provinces for this lucrative occasion. According to the 2011 estimates, the more than a thousand beggars, working in groups and having divided the area in an organised manner, allegedly managed to earn around RS 3 crore (30,000,000) over the duration of the Mela.

A Hindu Pandit waits for customers during the Maha Shivratri festival at Pashupatinath temple complex. Kathmandu, Nepal. March 2011Maha Shivratri literally means “the night of Shiva” and is an annual festival celebrated in reverence of Lord Shiva. The Maha Shivratri worship must traditionally incorporate six items: bathing the Shiva Lingam with water, milk and honey, representing purification of the soul; applying the vermilion paste on the Shiva Lingam, representing virtue; offering of fruits, conducive to longevity and gratification of desires; burning incense to yield wealth; the lighting of the lamp for the attainment of knowledge; and an offering of betel leaves marking satisfaction with worldly pleasures.

A naked Naga Baba meditates during the Maha Shivratri celebrations at Pashupatinath temple complex. Kathmandu, Nepal. March 2011The naked Naga Babas are Sadhus preferring isolated existence, known for their unusual rites and practices. They see themselves (along with many Indians) as the ultimate protectors of the natural order of the universe, and as such, they obey no orders from any authority, whetherreligious or secular. Naga Babas often carry weapons, a memory of their militant past when they were known as ferocious warriors for they did not fear death. The nakedness and ashes on their skin mark their non-attachment to the world and the death of the physical body.

Sadhus congregate in the Pashupatinath temple complex during the annual Maha Shivratri festival. Kathmandu, Nepal. March 2011Pashupatinath is one of the most significant Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world, located on the banks of the Bagmati River. A story goes that Shiva and Parvati rested by the Bagmati while on a journey through Kathmandu. Having been captivated by the beauty of the river and the surrounding forest, they walked into the woods as deers. When people and gods eventually found Shiva, he refused to leave and announced that he would now be known as Pashupatinath, Lord of all Animals. It is said that whoever beholds the present Shiva Lingam will not be reborn as an animal.