JapaneseSalonBeauty lives here

September 2013

Ombre itWhy its here to stay

Master ClassTips and Tricks with

Ted Gibbson & Tabatha Coffey

Learning Hair Design

With Raymond Fung

FEATURES:

104 Shining StarsThe Paul Mitchell Creative Team gets glossy and glamorous.

108 Frame WorkAveda Concept Salon Gary Manuel Pres-ents Yeilding Structure.

112 Power DressingBrit Hair guru Sean Tetlow offers up strong ailhouettes.

DEPARTMENTS:

46 StargazingThe 50’s- inspired ‘dos of populaire.

52 Better BusinessSalons give back; Dermalogica’s revamped website; PBA insight.

60 Ombre itwhy ombre is here and here to stay.

66 In StudioTokyo runway hair and regal do’s

68 HeadmastersA focus on organic salon systems with Sho Yamomoto

70 Fashion Platestwists ruled the Tokyo runways with Anna Kanji

86 Stylie FileThis seasons fall collections by Kai Hiroki Head Brain Salon

100 Consultation PerfectionPerfect the art of a percise 15 minute consultation with Ishida Toma

IN EVERY ISSUE:36 Japanese Online40 Publisher’s Note42 Editor’s Note44 Cover Look118 Show Biz124 The Wire136 Last Word

CELEBRATEOn page 78, We commemorate the 25th anniversary of Shades EQ

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Contents September 2013

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Hello Kitty

Learning Hair DesignThe new hair design learning system that is sweeping the nation of Japan and the man behind the chair Raymond Fung.

The hair design process: This design process begins before any haircut-ting procedures. My books outlines the process of designing haircuts, including all of the haircuts demonstrated in these books. I hope by the end of each book, you will recognize the existence and importance of hair design. These books were solely created to illustrate haircutting procedures, and to demonstrate how different haircutting systems are created by combining different haircutting ap-proaches, concepts, techniques and tools to con-struct, execute and deliver haircuts. My books are not meant to teach you how to cut hair, introduce you to cool new haircuts, or ask you to follow pictures to duplicate the haircuts in this book. Rather, they were created to help you learn to create your own approaches, concepts, techniques and tools to deliver any haircut; this is what I have been practicing since I first discovered hair design, and this practice continuously evolves and improves my haircuts and the way I cut hair.

What is Hair Design and why Draw: Hair design is about understanding hair design elements and principles, as well as knowing how to draw hair diagrams. It is more than deciding which one of your signature haircuts will best suit your client. Hair-diagram drawing is the only tool that can help you learn and master hair design. If you can draw it, you can cut it. It is the sign language and shorthand of hair design, and can help you un-derstand why and what you do, in addition to how you do it. Hair design is also about improving the way you learn and teach haircuts and haircutting; for this reason, it can strengthen salons’ in-house training program and hairdressers’ skills. Creating a custom designed haircut involves both the hair design process and haircutting procedures, which work together to create a cut to fit each individual client, according to the client’s wants and needs. Hair design can help you to evolve and improve the way you cut hair as well as discover new hair-cuts on a daily basis. Once you start learning hair design, you can stop learning one haircut at a time, and begin creating any haircut you want. Master-ing hair design means you no longer have to copy

haircuts or cut them by following steps— this is what allows you to start being a hair designer. Once you begin drawing hair diagrams, you will start sharpening your creative and competitive edges by improving your creativity, consistency, accuracy and efficiency in haircutting. If you want to master your craft, your financial future and be one of the great hairdressers in your town and beyond, learn-ing hair design may be your answer.

Above: A pixie haircut designed by Raymond Fung from his new book Learning Hair Design.

Need a Haircut?Raymond Fung can be found instructing, mentoring future industry professionals and creating beautifly design cuts for clients in his New Canaan Salon Image Design Group Location on 111 Elm Street.

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111 Japanese Salon September 2013

Who is Raymond? His name is ray fung, and he has been a hair-dresser since 1987. In 1993, opened his own pri-vate hair studio in New Canaan, Connecticut. He has invested in advanced haircutting classes since 1996 and attended numerous major academies and trade shows to become more knowledgeable and improve my skills. During that time, he found himself always drawing hair diagrams, and before he knew it, he had boxes of them. Years of drawing made me understand more and more about how to create, construct and design haircuts; it allowed me to take time to think about what I did in cutting hair on daily basis. Every time I got off from work, I would sit down and draw most, if not all, of the haircuts I did that day. I started to understand more and more about how to create new haircuts, as well as how to document, remember, improve and evolve the haircuts I was doing. In addition to that, I started to understand all of the haircuts I saw in the advanced training classes. In order to learn hair design, hairdressers have to recognize and understand all of the hair design elements. It is these elements that make up the different components to construct haircuts. Different selections of elements create different components.

Different components put together can create a different set of patterns of haircuts. Within each pattern, there is a certain number of options you can choose to use to create different shape, form and balance of haircuts. Do not expect to learn hair design over-night or simply by attending classes. It requires you to read, study and think about all of the hair design diagrams intensively, so that you can start drawing hair diagrams. If you take your time to dissect and analyze each page of hair design diagrams included in this book, you will begin to understand more and more about how to use the hair design elements to plan, con-struct and create haircuts within and beyond

your imagination. The more you draw hair design diagrams, the more you can explore, discover and invent new haircuts and new ways of haircutting.Once you have mastered hair design, you will know how to custom design haircuts to suit each individ-ual client, and customize each haircut to perfection.

How to custom-design haircuts? Designing haircuts to fit each individual client is based on the information hairdressers collect from clients, by getting the answers to the following questions:1. How much shorter do they want their hair?

2. How many inches do they want the length to be cut?

3. Are they happy with their previous haircut? When was the last time they had their last haircut? What do they like or dislike about it?

“I found myself always drawing hair diagrams, and before I knew it, I had boxes of them. Years of drawing made me understand more and more about how to create, construct and design haircuts”

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4. Do they want the same haircut, a trim to clean up the dead ends, or something different?

5. If they want to change, what kind of change and how much change do they want?

6. Do they want to grow their hair longer, maintain the same length or cut it (much) shorter?

7. Which part(s) of their existing haircut do they dislike the most, if any?

8. What is the main reason they want a haircut? Is it because their hair starts to become too long and too flat ?

9. Do they know how to style their own hair? Are they handy with styling tools? Do they use any hair products on their hair to style?

10. Are they fashionable, wild and stylish? Or are they simple, classy and conservative?

11. How many dead ends or how damaged is their hair?

12. Do they have a long-term goal for their hair-cuts, and if they do, what is it?

13. How much layer do they want? Long, medium, short, or anything in between?

14. Will their hair texture allow them to have a lot of layering?

15. Do they like volume or do they prefer their hair to lie flat?

16. If they want graduation, what kind of gradua-tion will make them happy?

17. If they want one length, a bunt cut or a bob, do they want the front longer, the same or shorter?

18. What do they like and dislike, fear and desire about their haircuts?

19. What kind of facial features, head shape, bone structure, neck shape, shoulder size, body height and shape do they have?

20. What kind of hair do they have? What are their hair texture (natural or chemically altered), hair distribution, growth pattern, cowlick, hairline, thickness and density?

21. What kind of job, profession or lifestyle do they have? What image do they want to project?

How can hair design change the mentality of hairdressers? Design, by definition, requires designers to work with their clients to come up with an idea for a design that will make clients happy. Usually, clients commission one particular designer out of others because they believe in that person’s knowl-edge, skill, creativity, style and experience to deliver the result they anticipate. There is a hair design process before starting any haircutting procedure, and I would like to explain to you how the process works in designing haircuts, including all of the haircuts demonstrated in this book

Image Design Group Salon, New Canaan CT

There is a hair design process before starting any haircutting procedure, and I would like to explain to you how the process works in designing hair-cuts, including all of the haircuts demonstrated in this book. I always try not to give whatever hair-cuts I want to my clients, even though they are my models, I still have to work with them to come up with haircuts we both like, as well as to make sure all of my haircuts can draw attention, so that they can bring me more new clients… the bottom line of the business! Before I cut anybody’s hair, including all of my models’, I practice observation, analysis and consultation every single time. I treat all of my established clients as though I have just met them because I try to forget any haircuts I may have giv-en them previously, so I can look at them and their hair from a whole new perspective. Besides, I like to use my brain to create and I love changes. I also try to give clients a different haircut every time I see them, and to deliver each haircut in a different way. Clients’ hair, desires and personal preferences may be different each time they return for haircuts, so we cannot do the same thing again and again without looking to make changes! Fur-thermore, the fact that we are in a fashion business demands us to be creative, spontaneous and unpre-dictable by breaking rules, changing formulas and equations, as well as ignoring steps, procedures and systems from time to time! On top of that, hairdressers have to make sure their haircuts are different or eye-catching enough to bring them new clients through word-of-mouth. Therefore, hairdressers have to make sure clients look great anytime and anywhere by themselves in order to succeed, and that means hairdressers have to educate and train clients, so that clients can take care of and style their own hair no matter where they are. Clients will not be their best advertisement if clients look good only by paying for it, because their hairstyles can be ruined if they are caught in the rain, humidity and sweat. Hairdressers should train their clients to be hairdressers of their own hair, so they can style and refresh their hair beau-tifully everyday, so people will stop them and ask “Who does your hair?”

If hairdressers believe they are artists sculpting hair, the chance they can create a piece of art, if not a masterpiece, is higher. Also, if they think that other hairdressers will come across their clients’ hair to check or even criticize, they would become very careful to make sure they give their best shot in every haircut and pay more attention to detail. In order not to be embarrassed or humiliated, they will push themselves harder to give better haircuts. Therefore, the mentality of hairdressers can change their attitude in cutting hair; and their new attitude can change the altitude of their profession. <

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Get your hands on this book:Look for this and many of Raymonds other books on his learn hair design website: www.learnhairdesign.com or visit his New Canaan Salon Image Design Group Location on 111 Elm Street.