MACHINERY Muck, muck, glorious muck! · 2015-07-21 · Muck, muck, glorious muck! Kevin Mellor says...

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Muck, muck, glorious muck! Kevin Mellor says we should make more of this natural resource To some of us manure is an unpleasant substance that gets in the way, and needs to be disposed of without a second thought! In reality, though, manure is a very valuable by- product of keeping domesticated livestock, and as such should be appreciated as one of the few good things in life we get for free! It does, however, need to be managed responsibly so as to avoid pollution to our watercourses, which is why in certain cases it is classified as a “controlled waste” product – although the term “waste” seems unfair, given that Mother Nature has developed her life- death-life cycle over the millennia, long before we arrived on the scene. Muck is beneficial in two principle ways. Firstly manures are a major source of nutrients to plants. Although nutrient contents will vary dependant upon the animal, all manures contain those essential ingredients for plant growth – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and typically minerals such as sulphur, magnesium and calcium, amongst others. Manures also release their nutrients slowly over time, preventing pastures becoming over-enriched, which can be a problem with improper use of artificial (chemical) fertilisers. Organic matter Secondly, manures enhance the physical properties of the soil. Manure is an excellent source of organic matter, and the humus content improves both air and water holding capacity. Roots function better and therefore nutrient uptake is enhanced, while the improved water retention helps minimise soil erosion. This physical enhancement, particularly beneficial in clay and sandy soils, is something that artificial fertilisers simply cannot offer. Both the chemical and physical benefits of manures can last for many years following application. There are various published charts quoting average NPK compositions of different animal manures, but it must be remembered that all livestock can produce widely varying constituents depending upon their environments and diet. Generally speaking however it is widely accepted that manures from most domesticated livestock (including horses) are well balanced and very useful, just ask any gardener, while Poultry manure is regarded as quite potent (especially in Nitrogen) and accordingly needs careful handling. Where possible manure should always be allowed to rot down first, preferably fully composted prior to spreading. Fresh manure can decompose on its own out in the field, but some form of managed composting beforehand accelerates the process by providing an ideal environment for bacteria, insects and worms to break down the organic components, whilst producing carbon dioxide and heat in the process. There are various benefits to spreading composted muck as opposed to spreading fresh. Firstly, the composted manure and bedding materials break up easier, and will disappear quicker from the surface permitting earlier re-grazing, as well as not emitting such unpleasant odours. Your muck pile will have reduced considerably in overall bulk, typically it will halve in size after about three months. Furthermore the considerable heat generated during a proper composting process ensures that parasite larvae as well as unwanted weed seeds are destroyed. Finally, composted muck is a much more usable resource around the garden and greenhouse, and can be a great mulch to limit weed growth on flowerbeds. For some folks, however, the desire to eliminate the muck pile altogether, or avoid “double handling” of manure means they prefer to spread their muck fresh, even on a daily basis (environmental conditions permitting). In principle this is no different to an animal dropping its waste in the field to let nature take its course. However, in this situation manures should be spread thinly to avoid over application, while the risk of pollution through run-off is also increased. Of course an extended rest period will also be required prior to re-grazing. How do I compost? Although there is no minimum definition of what constitutes composting, by just making a random muck pile and allowing it to rot down, you are in principle composting, although not in a controlled manner. However, following some simple guidelines will ensure you get the best from this valuable process of organic decomposition. For the typical smallholder or owner of a few horses, first of all you need a suitably sized impermeable base, usually a concrete hard standing. Ideally this will have walls to two or Spreading well rotted FYM MACHINERY www.smallholder.co.uk July 2007 64 Smallholder

Transcript of MACHINERY Muck, muck, glorious muck! · 2015-07-21 · Muck, muck, glorious muck! Kevin Mellor says...

Page 1: MACHINERY Muck, muck, glorious muck! · 2015-07-21 · Muck, muck, glorious muck! Kevin Mellor says we should make more of this natural resource To some of us manure is an unpleasant

Muck, muck, glorious muck!Kevin Mellor says we should make more of this natural resource

To some of us manure is an unpleasantsubstance that gets in the way, and needs tobe disposed of without a second thought! Inreality, though, manure is a very valuable by-product of keeping domesticated livestock,and as such should be appreciated as one ofthe few good things in life we get for free! Itdoes, however, need to be managedresponsibly so as to avoid pollution to ourwatercourses, which is why in certain cases itis classified as a “controlled waste” product –although the term “waste” seems unfair, giventhat Mother Nature has developed her life-death-life cycle over the millennia, long beforewe arrived on the scene.

Muck is beneficial in two principle ways.Firstly manures are a major source ofnutrients to plants. Although nutrient contentswill vary dependant upon the animal, allmanures contain those essential ingredientsfor plant growth – nitrogen, phosphorus andpotassium, and typically minerals such assulphur, magnesium and calcium, amongstothers. Manures also release their nutrientsslowly over time, preventing pasturesbecoming over-enriched, which can be aproblem with improper use of artificial(chemical) fertilisers.

Organic matterSecondly, manures enhance the physicalproperties of the soil. Manure is an excellentsource of organic matter, and the humuscontent improves both air and water holdingcapacity. Roots function better and thereforenutrient uptake is enhanced, while theimproved water retention helps minimise soilerosion. This physical enhancement,particularly beneficial in clay and sandy soils,is something that artificial fertilisers simplycannot offer. Both the chemical and physicalbenefits of manures can last for many yearsfollowing application.

There are various published charts quotingaverage NPK compositions of different animalmanures, but it must be remembered that alllivestock can produce widely varyingconstituents depending upon theirenvironments and diet. Generally speakinghowever it is widely accepted that manuresfrom most domesticated livestock (includinghorses) are well balanced and very useful,just ask any gardener, while Poultry manure isregarded as quite potent (especially inNitrogen) and accordingly needs carefulhandling.

Where possible manure should always beallowed to rot down first, preferably fullycomposted prior to spreading. Fresh manurecan decompose on its own out in the field, butsome form of managed compostingbeforehand accelerates the process byproviding an ideal environment for bacteria,insects and worms to break down the organiccomponents, whilst producing carbon dioxideand heat in the process.

There are various benefits to spreadingcomposted muck as opposed to spreadingfresh. Firstly, the composted manure andbedding materials break up easier, and willdisappear quicker from the surface permittingearlier re-grazing, as well as not emitting suchunpleasant odours. Your muck pile will havereduced considerably in overall bulk, typically itwill halve in size after about three months.Furthermore the considerable heat generatedduring a proper composting process ensures

that parasite larvae as well as unwanted weedseeds are destroyed. Finally, compostedmuck is a much more usable resource aroundthe garden and greenhouse, and can be agreat mulch to limit weed growth onflowerbeds.

For some folks, however, the desire toeliminate the muck pile altogether, or avoid“double handling” of manure means theyprefer to spread their muck fresh, even on adaily basis (environmental conditionspermitting). In principle this is no different to ananimal dropping its waste in the field to letnature take its course. However, in thissituation manures should be spread thinly toavoid over application, while the risk ofpollution through run-off is also increased. Ofcourse an extended rest period will also berequired prior to re-grazing.

How do I compost?Although there is no minimum definition ofwhat constitutes composting, by just making arandom muck pile and allowing it to rot down,you are in principle composting, although notin a controlled manner. However, followingsome simple guidelines will ensure you get thebest from this valuable process of organicdecomposition.

For the typical smallholder or owner of a fewhorses, first of all you need a suitably sizedimpermeable base, usually a concrete hardstanding. Ideally this will have walls to two or

■■ Spreading well rotted FYM

MACHINERY

www.smallholder.co.uk July 200764 Smallholder

Page 2: MACHINERY Muck, muck, glorious muck! · 2015-07-21 · Muck, muck, glorious muck! Kevin Mellor says we should make more of this natural resource To some of us manure is an unpleasant

three sides and some form of roof ormoveable lid to help maintain moisture levels. Ifyou want to save work by using machinery toturn over and subsequently load the pile,ensure there is adequate access available. Thebase must not be allowed to leak, be locatedin a low lying area, or permit run off into anyponds or waterways. The risk of run off is notonly an environmental risk, but also a waste ofvaluable nutrients. If you are adding muck on aregular basis throughout the year, then anadditional separate bay or two may be usefulin managing and rotating/aerating the muck. Itis then simply a question of filling it withmanure (and most other types of green wasteyou may have available), and periodicallyturning it to introduce oxygen into the pile.Generally speaking, the more you turn it, thequicker and better the composting processperforms. Depending upon the size of the pileand the frequency it is turned, full compostingwill usually take at least three months, and notuncommonly in excess of six months,especially during the cold winter months. Theongoing monitoring of temperature and watercontent in the pile are important factors incontrolling the speed and effectiveness of theprocess.

The art of composting is a science in itself,which this article serves only to offer asummary of. For further information contactthe Composting Association atwww.compost.org.uk who promote goodcomposting practice and have establishedindustry standards.

What about worms?Spreading manure onto resting (not currently

being grazed) pasture is a safe and completelynormal practice with all forms of livestock,including horses. As previously mentioned, theheat generated from a proper compostingprocess will kill off parasite larvae. Proper

composting, prior to spreading on restingpasture, combined with adhering to a regularworming programme, will all but eliminate anypossible worm re-infestation risk, for even forthe most cautious of horse owners.

The law can be a bit confusing in this area,but essentially the spreading of manure is notrestricted in most cases, so long as anyrestrictions (NVZs, etc), and the “code of goodagricultural practice” are always adhered to.There has been a recent court decision thatmanure is not classified as “waste” when usedas a fertiliser on agricultural premises (whichwould cover smallholdings). Ironically horsemanure is currently classed as “waste,” albeitof a “low risk” variety, however it is permittedto be spread as a fertiliser, again so long asgood practice is always followed. These rulesfor horse manure apply to both commercialpremises (livery yards, etc), and horses keptprivately at a domestic dwelling. If any manureneeds to be transported, and the persontransporting it is not the producer, then theywill need to be registered as a waste carrier.

So regardless of where and how your muckwas produced, you must always handle andspread it following the code of goodagricultural practice. This includes alwayskeeping it at least 10 metres from awatercourse and 50 metres from a well orspring, and never spreading when land isfrozen, snow covered, waterlogged or flooded.You should also be aware if you are in aNitrate Vulnerable Zone, a Site of SpecialScientific Interest or an EnvironmentallySensitive Area, which may limit how muchmanure you can spread, or even if you canspread it at all. Further information onregulations and the full code of goodagricultural practice is available from theEnvironment Agency and DEFRA.

With regards to pastures, most experts agreemanures are best spread onto the land duringthe growing season usually from February

through May, although many also like to applymanure later in the year around the Septemberto November timeframe, but before the groundbecomes too wet. Application rates varydependant upon what the crops nutrientrequirements are, but usually range fromaround five to thirty tonnes per acre. For amore precise application, particularly in acommercial environment where crop yields areimportant, it would be prudent to sample yoursoils beforehand, and even sample yourmanure. DEFRA publishes various guidelinesand recommendations on this topic,particularly with regard to the carefulmanagement of nitrogen levels.

What can I use to spread it?As large scale farming has developed overrecent years and machinery size has grownwith it, most of the older smaller manurespreaders from the nineteen sixties andseventies are becoming increasingly harder tofind on the second-hand market. Additionally,many smallholders and horse owners can nolonger find contractors willing to spread just afew acres for them, or their machinery issimply too large and too heavy.

Since the mid eighties however, Millcreekmanufacturing have been producing a uniqueline of smaller (up to two and a half tonnescapacity) traditional rear discharge muckspreaders designed specifically for thesmallholder and horse owners. With sevendifferent models to choose from includinggood old fashioned land/ground drive, as wellas PTO driven machines, there is a spreaderavailable to suit all situations. Furtherinformation is available from Millcreek who canbe contacted on (01652) 679000 or byvisiting their website at www.millcreek.co.uk.

■■ Pictures Left to right: MF135 with a Millcreek muckspreader; Spreading manure on to the land

■ Millcreek will be at the Royal Show1 - 4 July 2007

www.smallholder.co.uk Smallholder 67July 2007

MACHINERY