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THREE MILLENNIA O F LIVING IT UP HAVE TAUGHT THE ITALIANS A THING OR TWO ABOUT LA D OLCE VITA

LIVING LA DOLCE VITA

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THE SCHOOL

A luxury holiday to Italy is a celebration of all that is dolce: good food, superb wine and gorgeous people. Italy’s heady mix

of art, architecture, beaches and beautiful scenery combine to create one of Europe’s most vibrant cultures. Travel writer, Jessica Hudson, takes in the big cultural hitters of Rome and Florence, samples ne Tuscan food and ends on the idyllic Amal Coast, one of the most romantic places on the planet.

ROMERome’s history is part of its charm, with ancient landmarks and incredible sights to see at every turn. Must-sees include the Pantheon (more than 2,000 years old, one of the masterpieces of Roman architecture), the ruins of the Colosseum and, of course, St Peter’s Square and Michaelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. row a coin in the Trevi Fountain and take a stroll through Rome’s biggest park, the beautiful Villa Borghese, where Romans go rollerblading, cycling and scooting. For more unusual spots, don’t miss the island on the Tiber, one of the city’s hidden gems, and during the summer they have an open-air cinema and market that runs alongside the river, brimming with bars and cafés.

Hotel de Russie is the place to stay. Located on the exclusive Via del Babuino between two of Rome’s most beautiful and famous piazzas, Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna, it’s just a short walk away from the most elegant shopping streets in the city. e bedrooms and suites have fabulous views over Piazza del Popolo, with interiors beautifully designed by architect Tommaso Zi er and Olga Polizzi, Sir Rocco Forte’s sister. A er a day of sightseeing, book into the Wellness Zone to soak in their hydropool or have a relaxing massage. Le Jardin de Russie Restaurant is a romantic spot for dinner, set open air in the hotel’s secret garden with its tropical palms, blossoming orange groves and rose bushes.

For a more a ordable alternative, try the Ripa Hotel in the trendy Trastevere across the river, buzzing with cafés and boutiques, and the beautiful Piazza Santa Maria with the oldest church in Rome. With so many delicious trattorias and restaurants to choose from, the best advice is to just pick one with as many Italians as possible and you are sure to have a mouthwatering meal. Campo di Fiori is also great for people watching, and Ai Balestrari, which means “ e Bow Makers”, in Via Balestrari, serves the best pizzas in town. Piazza Navona is a must-see for the famous Bernini fountain, one of the most beautiful in the city, and is a fun place to go for a er-dinner drinks, followed by an ice cream from Giolitti on Via Del Vicario, serving the most delicious choice of ice creams and sorbets. A magical dining spot just outside Rome is Lake Albano, and the quaint hill-top village Castelo Gandolfo, which homes the Pope’s summer residence. Stroll through the quaint cobbled streets and for the best views try Ristorante Bucci hanging over the edge of the lake.

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MAKE A WISHThe Trevi Fountain in Rome holds many-a hopeful’s wish (and coin). Right is one of the rooms at Hotel de Russie

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TUSCANY e drive from Rome to Florence is

stunning; glide through a landscape of vineyards, olive groves and rolling Tuscan hills, and there are some wonderful villages to discover along the way. e Umbrian hill town of Orvieto is a great place to stop for lunch, perched on a volcanic outcrop with breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside. Its mountain-top position and sheer cli walls were chosen for security at a time, in the Middle Ages, when the area between Rome and Florence was rife with warring clans looking to extend their territories. Inside the castle walls, the medieval city is lled with charming cafés, antiques and bookshops, and home to some of the most beautiful buildings in Italy, including the impressive Duomo with its intricate façade of gilded mosaics and carvings, which took a remarkable 300 years to build.

Villa Fontelunga is the perfect base for exploring all that Southern Tuscany has to o er, 20 minutes from the hillside village of Cortona and Arezzo, and just an hour to Siena and Florence. is is a charming Tuscan villa with contemporary, chic interiors and endless views across the rolling Tuscan countryside. Set in an Olive Grove and with beautiful gardens lled with lavender and jasmine, and with just eight double bedrooms and an additional cottage in the garden, it really feels like a home away from home.

e owner Paolo’s mother is a fantastic cook using the freshest ingredients grown locally, and guests can book cooking classes where she passes on her recipes and tips for those longing for the perfect pasta at home. Her homemade pesto gnocchi is a personal favourite. For those feeling active a er all the delicious Tuscan dishes, there are mountain bikes to use to cycle into nearby villages Pozzo or Val de Chiana, endless country walks, and a tennis court in the gardens.

e area is also home to world-renowned wineries including Avignonsei Winery at the beautiful Fattoria Le Capezzine in the Montepulciano region just a 25-minute drive from the villa, and Poggio Antico Winery, producer of the famous Brunello wines. Santa Vittoria Winery is just ve minutes down the road, where the estate borders the Chianti region to the north and Montepulciano to the south, producing an excellent Vin Santo and award-winning red wines. Nearby Cortona is also worth a visit, it holds exhibitions, concerts and festivals including the international Tuscan Sun Festival each August. Visitors are treated to concerts, lectures in art, food and wine – with plenty of opportunity to taste!

Next stop is Florence, one of Italy’s most enchanting cities with some of the most famous art in the world on display, superb food and fantastic shopping. Stroll across the Ponte Vecchio, explore e U zi housing the largest collection of art in

Florence, and of course visit the Duomo. If you have the stomach for heights and con ned spaces, tackle the climb to the top of its dome, the architectural masterpiece of its day. Shop ’til you drop on the Via de Tournabuoni, where you will nd all of the designer stores, or try the open-air market of San Lorenzo along the street of Via del Giglio. If you want

to escape the madding crowd, you can wander through the garden of Pitti Palace with its water features and sculptures.

For art lovers and wine enthusiasts, check in to Villa Mangiacane, a majestic villa set on a cypress-shaded hill and working wine estate just seven miles south of Florence. e villa is steeped in history dating back to the 15th century

and was built for the Machiavelli family; it is believed that Michelangelo himself participated in the design. ere are just 26 individually designed rooms and sumptuous suites all set within 600 acres of vineyards, olive groves and sculptured gardens, with views all the way to Brunelleshci’s cathedral dome and the roo ops of Florence. Enjoy ne

wines from the estate along with home-produced olive oil that is used in the popular cooking classes. e hotel o ers a daily complimentary shuttle service to and from Florence so you can easily pop into town for an a ernoon of exploring and then return for a refreshing swim in the in nity pool overlooking the city below.

GLIDE THROUGH A LANDSCAPE OF VINEYARDS, OLIVE GROVES AND ROLLING TUSCAN HILLS, AND THERE ARE SOME WONDERFUL VILLAGES TO DISCOVER ALONG THE WAY

INFINITYVilla Scannagallo’s infinity pool, which

forms part of the main hotel, Villa Fontelunga

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mountain scenery. During the walk there are roughly 775 steps, so it is not for the faint hearted and best to attempt in the morning before the heat of the day. e views are well worth it to see the Natural Arch elevated high above sea level with the rocky arch providing the perfect picture frame and photo moment for the spectacular sea scenery below. If you are feeling inspired, the Capri Photography Festival begins on July 9 and runs all summer until the end of September, with exhibitions held at the beautiful Villa San Michele overlooking Capri.

A scenic boat ride along the dramatic coastline brings you to Positano clinging to the mountain-side, with its impressive

duomo and jumble of white and honey-coloured houses covered in bouganvillea. Le Sireneuse Hotel is the grand dame overlooking Positano and a drink on the veranda is a must. La Cambusa is a wonderful sh restaurant near the beach and a great people-watching spot, followed by drinks and dancing at Music on the Rocks, a nightclub built into a cave, open until the early hours.

With Positano full of day-tripper tourists, brave the narrow, winding coastal road and discover the quaint village of Praiano for a quieter, more authentic experience. Praiano is home to Casa Angelina, the Amal Coast’s design ‘lifestyle’ hotel – a contemporary

boutique hotel with sleek white décor and a fantastic collection of colourful art and quirky Murano glass masterpieces. e minimalist white rooms are spacious

and comfortable, but it is the sensational views and sunsets that really make it, overlooking Positano all the way to the isle of Capri. Breakfast and dinner are held on the roo op restaurant Un Piano nel Cielo, and lazy lunches by the pool where charming waiters serve refreshing sorbets and snacks. Try open-air yoga and pilates, complimentary every morning, or the 200 steps work out down to the private beach club below, with colourful shing boats and local restaurant La Gavitella, where you can enjoy the catch of the day. Casa Angelina also o ers a complimentary shuttle bus to Positano, or the Casa Angelina speed boat is available to explore the coves along the coast.

You cannot visit the Amal Coast without a visit to the Medieval hilltop town of Ravello, especially during the famous Ravello Festival with classical concerts and open-air operas in July and August. Five-star Palazzo Sasso is the place to stay, for its breathtaking views across the valley to Monte Avvocata and the Bay of Salerno beyond. Converted from a 12th-century palazzo, there are beautiful manicured terrace gardens leading down to the pool and the two-Michelin starred restaurant, Rossellini’s, is one of the best on the Amal coast. Head barman Stefano serves delicious martinis with an impressive 65 varieties to choose from. Sip a Bikini Martini overlooking the spectacular sunsets for a true slice of the high life. Bellissima!

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AMALFI COASTHaving soaked up the culture, food and wine of Rome and Tuscany, head south to the famous Amal Coast, home to some of Italy’s nest hotels and restaurants all perched along a beautiful coast of rugged cli s and sandy coves. Italy’s Eurostar trains are the best way to travel, fast (300km an hour), e cient, and you can sit back and enjoy the scenery from Florence to Naples.

First stop is Capri, synonomous with lm stars and a jet-set lifestyle. e island is surrounded by turquoise waters with dramatic mountains rising from the sea, just a 30-minute speedboat ride from Naples, yet it feels a million miles away from city life. e port is lined with brightly coloured shing boats and quay-side cafés and Capri Town sits majestically some 500m above sea level. e island is just six kilometres long, and is an amazing and unusual mix of quaint village life and chic designer shops.

Capri Tiberio Palace is a stylish boutique hotel set in the heart of

glamorous Capri Town just a few steps from Piazetta di Capri and Via Camarelle, the Rodeo Drive of Capri, but far enough away from the tourist trails to remain a peaceful luxe hideaway. General manager Eduardo O cioso greets guests as long-lost friends and the hotel has a relaxed and boutique feel with library-lined walls and interiors to die for in striking hues of powder blue, yellow and coral red. e new 1,200sq m Blu Mediterraneo Spa by Acqua di Parma is a haven of relaxation with indoor and outdoor pools, and the sun deck has spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. Jacky’s Bar is a great spot for taking in Capri’s unforgettable sunsets whilst sipping their local drink Aperol Spritzer with Prosecco. Plus Capri-born and acclaimed chef Marco Laccarino works wonders in the kitchen of the Terrazza Tiberio Restaurant.

Head to Il Riccio for a lazy lunch, a rustic beach club located on the far side of the island outside Anacapri set on a cli above the famous Grotta Azura. e views are to die for and so is the seafood.

Salvtatore the head chef greets you at your table, his recommendations of the linguine frutti di mare and the polpo e patate, a delicacy on the island, are delicious, and the selection of mouthwatering desserts are irresistable. A er lunch, take a siesta on their sunbeds on the rocks below and dive into the sea for a refreshing dip, or check out Il Riccio Bazaar for some retail therapy. Capri’s Blue Grotto just below is an experience not to be missed, where you are taken into the narrow mouth of the cave by small rowing boat and emerge into a vast cavern 60ms long with an incredible bright blue colour, created by the daylight that enters via the underwater opening. Legend has it that in the Roman times, the grotta was used as a marine nymphaeum, an underground pool, with a secret tunnel connecting the houses on the cli s above.

For hiking and nature lovers, the Pizzolungo walk along the coastline up to the Natural Arch is one of the most beautiful walks on the island, through unspoilt forests and dramatic

POOL-SIDE LIVINGCapri Tiberio Palace has stunning hillside views. Far right, Casa Angelina’s impressive pool