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Transcript of Love Sewing Issue 12, 2015.pdf
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Fast, fun& stylish
Kidswear:
Totes, clutches& top sewing tips
Be t t e r b a g s
FREE easy-sew dresses
HOME STYLE
Pretty pillowcasesClever cushions
V E
2 0 %
At W h i t
e T r e e
F a b r
i c s
F r e e pa t t e r ni n s i d e
NEWLOOKS!
TYLISH SEWING MADE SIMPLE
SPRING CLEAN:
TIDY IDEASFOR CLUTTER
BOOK IT NOW!
BEST BREAKSFOR STITCHERS
WIN A SEWINGBEE SEWING
MACHINE!
y o u ’ l l l o v e
Si ze s
8-20
ISSUE 12 UK £5.99
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
I n s p i r eI m a g i n eC r e a t e
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Helen McLaughlin, Editor
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.facebook.com/lovesewingmag
www.twitter.com/lovesewingmag
www.pinterest.com/lovesewingmag
Welcome to the new issue of Love Sewing...With anything I make, I like my sewing projects to be beautiful and useful. ere
aren't enough hours in my day as it is, so when I do get some precious machine
time I want to be making things I really need, rather than fiddly bits of frippery I
have neither room nor use for.
It was this mindset that inspired many of the projects in this month’s issue. at
and a desire to de-clutter and reorganise my home, ready for spring. To create, as
the saying goes, a place for everything.
With a little imagination, know-how and
interfacing, it’s really easy (and rewarding) to sew an
arsenal of solutions for a tidier, neater home, from a
thread catcher for your sewing table, to a big, sturdy
basket for toys, towels or laundry. (We have projects
for both this month). And while you’re in a domestic
mood, we’ve also got a project by Katy Orme of
Apartment Apothecary to give your ironing board
a makeover to brighten and lighten the load of your
laundry chores.
Of course, when all your tidying and sorting is done,
you’ll be able to sit down in a calm, ordered space
and make this month’s brilliant dresses: a gorgeous,easywear wrap dress with kimono-style sleeves and a
super flattering drapey wool dress from the team at the
Great British Sewing Bee. Okay, who are we fooling?
It’s going to be dressmaking first,
tidying and sorting second…
Happy sewing!
S k a t e r s k i r t , pa g e 36
B i g b a s k e t , p a g e 5 4
D r a p e y w o o l d r e s s , p a g e 3 0
I r o n i n g b o a r d c o v e r , p a g e 4 8
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 3
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REGULARS AND FEATURES6 LOVE SEWING LOVES...
e patterns, people, fabric and findsgetting us sewing this month
12 LOVE SEWING LIBRARY
is month's best new books
14 THE THRIFTY STITCHER
Sewing with knits plus essential tools
15 LOVE SEWING LETTERS
Wendy Ward answers your sewing queries
16 MY PATTERN PICKS e Queen of Darts
18 READERS' MAKES
Your sewing projects shared
19 THIS MONTH I'M MAKING…
e Burda 7051
22 SEWING HOLIDAYS
A guide to residential courses
82 HOW TO READ A SEWING PATTERN
84 COUTURE SEWING WITH ALISON SMITH Making facings and linings
86 SEWING MACHINE MAP
90 CLASSES, COURSES & WORKSHOPS
Tuition and meet-ups
89 SHOP OF THE MONTH
Dragonfly Fabrics
94 READER OFFERS
Exclusive giveaways and discounts
Katy OrmeKaty is the founder of the award-winning blog
Apartment Apothecary, a space where she
shares ideas about how to make your home
look and feel better, with interior decoration
projects, design and craft ideas and tips for
getting your space just the way you want it.
www.apartmentapothecary.com
Fiona HesfordBased in Sussex, designer and sewing
tutor Fiona has worked in fashion and textiles
design for more than 20 years. She now runs the
Sewgirl craft company and the Make Your Mother
Proud classes and workshops.
www.sewgirl.co.uk
Ali BurdonBased in Shropshire, designer, maker and blogger
Ali shares her tutorials, projects and tips on her
website, Very Berry Handmade. You can also
purchase a wide range of Liberty fabrics from her
online shop Very Berry Fabrics. For details see
www.veryberryhandmade.co.uk
What's inside this issue of
This month's guest contributors
Cover photography: Cat Powell @ CT Images
Hair & Make-up: Alison McMath
Model: Rebecca @ Boss Models
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42
46
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Emily Levey Describing sewing as her "first and true love", Emily
is also obsessive about any kind of crafting. "If I'm
not making then I'm either dreaming up new ideas,
thrifting or sketching and drooling over pinterest
or other blogs." Read about her craft adventures at
strawberrypatchramblings.blogspot.co.uk
Claire GarsideClaire is the founder of Manchester-based
pattern labels Simple Sew and Eliza M and
designs all Love Sewing's pattern gifts.
To see more of her designs, see
www.simplesewpatterns.co.uk and
www.elizamvintagesewing.co.uk
Susan DunlopAuthor, designer and bag maker Susan
Dunlop sells a range of bag patterns, kits
and hardware via her website,
www.susieddesigns.co.uk. Her first book,
Style and Swing: 12 Structured Handbags for
Beginners and Beyond is out next month.
PROJECTS
30 DRAPEY WOOL DRESSFree from e Great British Sewing Bee!
35 KIMONO WRAP DRESSis month's free pattern gi
36 SPRING SKATER SKIRTA fun make ideal for novices
40 SPRING SHOWERS TOPBrighten a tee with our fun templates
42 KIDS' RUFFLE SKIRTOne pattern, two great styles
44 APPLIQUÉ CUSHIONPut your scraps to beautiful use
46 LACETRIMMED PILLOWCASESBring a boho touch to your bedroom
48 IRONING BOARD COVERLighten your laundry load in style
50 HANGING STACKER BAGDebbie Shore's neat, niy storage idea
52 ARMCHAIR SEWING TIDYMake our handy hideway for lap projects
54 BIG AND TIDY BASKETA sturdy, spacious hide-all for your home
58 OMBRE ROPE BASKETSTurn a washing line into a brilliant basket
62 PINCUSHION AND THREAD CATCHEREssential kit for your sewing table
66 TABLET CLUTCH
e most stylish gadget sleeve ever!
70 2IN1 TOTEA super-simple reversible shopper
74 SEWING MATKeep your essentials to hand
76 SPRING HOBO BAGFollow Susie D's expert tips
80 BIRD CUSHIONA colourful make to celebrate spring
98 30MINUTE MAKEe shirt apron
36
66
70
58
Subscribe to and SAVE 66% todayand find lots of ideasand inspirationto create fabitems for yourhome andwardrobe.Get your next 3 issues for just £6* andSAVE 66%
Editorial Editor Helen McLaughlin
Art Editor Denise Johnson
Chief Sub-Editor Becky Higgins
Contributors Fiona Pullen,
Alison Smith MBE, Wendy Ward
Editorial Assistant Hugh Metcalf
Publishing & Advertising Group Sales Manager
Kevin Edwards
Advertising Sales Executive
Noune Sarkissiannoune.sarkissian@practical
publishing.co.uk
Advertising Consultant Jane Bates
Subscriptions ManagerDaniel Tutton
Senior Art Editor Jennifer Lamb
Managing Editor Lee Campbell
Publisher Gavin Burrell
Group Publisher Carol Jones
Managing Director Danny Bowler
Group Managing DirectorRobin Wilkinson
DistributionNewstrade COMAG Magazine
Distribution
Craft Store Distribution ExecutiveJody Byron-Smith
Tel 0844 826 0613
Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd,
Suite G2 St Christopher House,
217 Wellington Road South,
Stockport SK2 6NG
www.practicalpublishing.co.ukTel: 0844 561 1202
Fax: 0161 474 6961
Subscription EnquiriesTel: 01858 438899
Love Sewing is published byPractical Publishing International Ltd
ISSN 2054-832X
All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd.
The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under
licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material in whole
or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted
in any form whatsoever without the prior written
consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd.
The publisher welcomes contributions from readers.
All such contributions and submissions to the
magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher
on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable
worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in
writing prior to first publication. Such submissions
are also subject to being used, reproduced,
modified, published, edited, translated, distributed
and displayed in any media or medium, or any form,
format or forum now known or hereafter developed,
for any purpose, in perpetuity.
Turn topage 26
for moredetails
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e author of the beautiful, essentialsewing books, Cloth, Quilt Love andWorld of Quilts, Cassandra Ellis haslaunched a collection of patterns forclothing, accessories and homewares,available to buy from April.
Inspired by her impeccably stylish aesthetic,Cassandra describes the focus of her designs as thesimple, useful and beautiful, with contemporaryshapes and silhouettes and practical details. e
collection comprises nine downloadable patterns, plustwo free patterns (a pieced cushion and a Japanese-style heat pad). ere is also a contemporary dogtoy pattern suite that can be downloaded for just £3,for which every penny of the purchase price goes toBattersea Dogs and Cats Home.
e dressmaking patterns each come in sizes 8-16and all have clear, simple instructions with step-by-step pictures. Each pattern requires some experienceon a sewing machine, with different levels ofdiffi culty depending on which pattern you choose.
Each pattern costs £8.50. For more informationand details of where to purchase, visitwww.cassandraellis.co.uk
Cassandra Ellis
PATTERNS
e patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this monthBu y s & i n s p i r a t i o n
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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FabricsBY HAND
Did you know that in addition to printing and selling its own fabrics,
the dressmaking pattern team ByHand London can also print yours?
Via a simple click to www.byhandlondon.com, you can designyour print and upload it to the site and the team will do the rest.
e printing is done on digital textile printers using pigment inks,so there is no limit on the amount of colours used per design andno minimum orders. Prices start at £8 per fat quarter, ranging to£19 for a metre, with discounts available on bulk orders. All ordersare aimed to be processed in five working days.
For inspiration, check out the team’s own collection of prints bya range of independent designers – and the team’s latest sewingpattern, the Sophia dress, a versatile summer party frock featuring
a fitted sleeveless V-neck bodice with angled darts and armholes.
T h e ne w
S o ph i a d r e s s
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7
LOVE SEWING LOVES
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e patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this monthBu y s & i n s p i r a t i o n
RAID YOUR
STASH…
and make your own summerfascinator – a great way to use up spare scraps, ribbons,buttons, beads and feathers.
If you’re heading to a wedding in the coming months
and you were inspired by the fascinator project in lastmonth’s issue, Hobbycraft is now selling fascinatorcaps – circular mesh bases for your headpiecedesigns. Constructed from three layers of the finestsinamay straw, the caps have a gentle curve thatsits comfortably on the head and layered edges foradditional support. The cross weave allows you to holdfeathers, flowers and jewellery securely in place, so youcan fully customise your headpiece for any occasion ortheme. Once you have achieved your desired look, thefascinator can be held securely in place with hairpins,combs, headbands or clips. Available in natural orblack, the caps are priced from just £1.30 each.
www.hobbycraft.co.uk
SIGN
UP… for
the Owl and SewingCat’s Sew A Little Secretsewing course andreceive a surprise freesewing project deliveredto your door everymonth. There are twopackages, beginners andadvanced, each costing £18.95 per month (or£99 for six months). In return you will receive a reusable pattern,simple instructions and a selection of gorgeous fabrics requiredto make your project. For details, visit www.owlandsewingcat.com
GET YOUR KIDS
SEWING… at the Hope & Gloria Children’sSewing Clubs. More than 500 children are now enrolled in Hope& Gloria sewing classes, taking place in lunchtime and after-school clubs in 25 schools across Berkshire and Surrey. Foundedfour years ago by Keeley Richardson, all of the projects thatchildren work on are designed and prepared by Keeley then sentin to schools where they can be made in to something lovely.
“Children don’t have many opportunities to sample wonderfulcrafts such as sewing and knitting,” Keeley says, “so I decidedto provide the opportunity myself. Taking the time to createsomething from start to finish is hugely beneficial to children and isfabulous for their self-esteem, creativity not to mention the social
aspect of our clubs.” To find out more visit www.hopeandgloria.com
T h i s o t h ...
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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Make the lookFEATHERS
From fine, delicate wisps tobold, graphic plumes, feathersare inspiring a range of prints
this spring. What will you make?
TEAWAGON
TALESIt was during one of ourregular window browsesthrough the online storeFolksy, that we stumbledacross this delightfulposter by Manchester-based designer, TeawagonTales. Designed with thefabric loving crafter inmind, the original artwork is printedon A3 high-quality matt cardstockand is delivered in a study cardboardtube. It’s also a steal – priced at just£11. Further investigation uncoveredthat Teawagon Tales has also created a great littlecollection of fabric banners, wallhangings and cushions.
See them all at teawagontales.blogspot.co.uk
e object of our Sewing Room Swoon this monthcomes courtesy of Gemma Wilson from Doncaster, whosent us a photo of her amazing hideaway sewing stationshe made from a old unwanted wardrobe.
“is was a “saved from the skip” wardrobe a friendwas throwing away,” Gemma tells us. “I inserted ahinged foldaway MDF desk for a sewing table andgave it all a lick of paint. It all folds up nicely to looklike an ordinary furniture when I’ve got guests. eonly trouble is: I’ve acquired a LOT more fabric since
this picture was taken!”
Sewing roomSWOON
Top – Left to right: Birch Fabrics Feathers in Mineral, £15 per metre, www.fabric
godmother.co.uk Makower Chicken & Egg, £9.90, www.emmasfabricstudio.
co.uk Dashwood Studios Cuckoo Calling, £12 per metre, www.misformake.co.uk Bottom – Left to right: Duck and Duffel Dakota fabric, £25 per metre (printed toorder) Lily Keziah Feather & Snail, £17 per metre, www.backstitch.co.uk CamelotPetite Plume White Fan Feathers £12 per metre, www.plushaddict.co.uk
s l a 2 . 5
S e a t S
o f a I n F e a t h e r W h i t e &
L a g o o n , w w w . s o f a . c o m
R e a d m o r e a b o u t T e a w a g o n T a l e s o n p a g e 13
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LOVE SEWING LOVES
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Get your hands on a new machine, as seen one Great British Sewing Bee!
If you’re ever lucky enough to find yourself in e Great British Sewing Bee studio, you’d notice thatnot only is it well equipped with a fabulous fabric stash, haberdashery and dress forms, but also
Janome sewing machines. e 525S is the model of choice, as it’s perfect for sewists of every level –offering a well-balanced range of stitches that make it ideal for coping with everyday sewing tasks.
Stitch selection is by dial – just choose the letter that matches the stitch and start sewing – while theautomatic buttonhole produces perfect buttonholes in one easy step and the automatic needle threader
takes the strain out of fiddly threading. Plus there’s plenty of accessory storage and a hard cover forprotection. If you’re looking for an upgrade from a basic model, here’s your perfect opportunity.
Simply enter our competition for your chance to win a Joanome 525S worth £249!
To enter, visit www.ppjump.com/lovesewing12 By entering this competition you accept that your details may be passed on to a third party. Competition open to UK entrants only. Closing date 30th April, 2015
W or t h£ 24 9 !
10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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Our picks of this month's newsewing and dressmaking bookslibrary
TWENTY TO MAKE: FAUX FUR FUN
by Alistair McDonald
£5.99, Search Press
Faux fur may not be a fabric that often
frequents your sewing table, but thislittle book might be the thing that getsyou thinking outside of the realms offancy dress and coat linings. Home décor
and stylish little accessories are thethings that might inspire you most, butthere’s also some fun and silly projects
like animal hats and a bright green monster beanbag thatthe children are sure to see, want you to make, and end uploving for a long time. At £5.99 it’s a bargain buy, so if you’reinterested in stitching something up using fur, we recommendthis for your bookshelf.
PRETTY BIRDS
by Virginia Lindsay
£12.99, Frances Lincoln
There’s something utterly charming abouta bird-based sewing project – just takea look at our sumptuous cushion in thisissue – and Pretty Birds packs in enoughprojects to even make an ornithologisthappy. Swans, woodpeckers and peacockssit alongside the crowd-pleasing owlsand bluebirds, and while all the makes
inside are sewn, there’s flat and 3D projects, as well as someinspirational ideas to make your project practical too whichstop it becoming repetitive too quickly.
SEW DOLLED UP
by Boutique Sha
£12.99, Quarto UK
If you’re the sort with a doll’s housethat’s in better shape than youractual house, then this book ismost certainly for you. The dolls ofSew Dolled Up are full of characterand charm, and their clothes are
mini-exercises in dressmaking, perfectly detailed evendown to the doll’s undergarments! There are somebrilliant uses of craft-stash regulars in miniature withthese dolls, so you should be left feeling all kinds ofinspired and ready to start your doll adventure. If only we
could get some of these doll’s clothes in big people sizes.
12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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polka dots and I made a tube skirt to gowith it… I was pretty chuffed!
Have you got dedicated craftingroom at home?I have a 6x8ft wooden shed in the gardenwhich is my own little crafting and sewingspace. It's insulated and has lots of naturallight. Because it's only small I have to be
pretty organised, so I have lots of storagefor supplies and a table for my sewingmachine and overlocker. I label everythingbecause I can't find anything if I don't!
Which project from the new book inspired your own craft space the most?
I love the storage tubs. I made a fewprototypes in different shapes and sizesand we have them around the house.I'm thinking of making some scaled up
versions for my shed.
What kind of fabrics do you enjoy sewingmost with?Mostly cotton as it's nice and easy towork with. Quilter’s cottons have the best
designs, I have a pretty big stash mixed inwith a few nice vintage fabrics.
What’s the toughest sewing lesson you’ve
learned?Don't change the needle on your sewingmachine when your foot is hoveringover the pedal!
What’s your top tip for creating aharmonious craft space?Fabric storage... Mine's just an oldcupboard and some wooden fruit cratesbut the fabrics are stored by colour or typeso it makes it much easier to see whatyou've got to work with.
JUST FOR YOUby Caroline Fairbanks-Critchfield
and Sarah Markos
£17.99, Stash Books
Just for You is all about selfish sewing,and with the slowly approachingsummer promising to find us at thetrough of gift-giving season in betweenMother’s Day and Christmas, we’relooking forward to a little extra time tosew for ourselves. All the projects are
contributed by SewCanShe bloggers, so there’s a great mix ofstyles from flouncy long skirts to cool, modern tops. There aresome killer dressmaking patterns included, which are worth
the book price alone, and the accessories and quick makes are just an added cherry on top of the cake.
PRETTY, ORGANISEDby Jane Hughes
£12.99, Apple
Jane Hughes is betterknown by the nameof her crafting blog,Teawagon Tales, and
Etsy shop sellingcool sewing-inspiredprints, Little
Teawagon. She’s got a beautiful, perfectly-styled vintage home, so we don’t trustanyone more to give us advice on how to
get our lives in order (mainly relating toour craft stash) as her first book Pretty,
Organised aims to do.
What was your first ever sewing project?In high school I started making my ownclothes – at first altering and re-stitching,
then I bought a pattern and had a go atmaking a shirt. It was black and white
V isit Jane’ s blog ov er at w w w .t e a w a g o n t a l e s .b l o g s p o t .c o .uk
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e Great British Sewing Bee’s sewing producer Claire-Louise Hardieon sewing with knits and the five gadgets you need to own
The Thrifty Stitcher
Knitted fabrics have transformed
the modern wardrobe, removing
many tricky fitting problems
because it moulds around the
body. Take a look in your wardrobe and I’m
sure you’ll find a couple of your favourite
clothes are made from knit fabric. It seems
that whilst we love to wear knit fabricclothes, many home sewers are too daunted
to sew with it.
Fear not, you just need to be machine
confident to have success sewing with
stretchy fabrics. Just like woven fabrics,
some knits are easier to sew than others. If
you’ve never used stretchy fabric before, try
using a stable double knit like a Ponte Roma
or cotton interlock fabric to get started.
MY TOP KNIT TIPS
Some people find it easier to
cut out with a rotary cutter
and cutting mat, although Iprefer scissors myself.
Make sure you’re working with
a pattern designed for KNIT
fabrics, not woven. Patterns
for woven fabrics have more
ease than you need with
knits, so the fit will be off.
Always make sure to
follow the direction of
stretch when you lay
out your patternpieces. As a rule of
thumb, the greatest
amount of stretch needs to wrap around the
body, not up and down!
You don’t need an overlocker to sew knit
fabrics, although if you really get into
sewing knits and start working with sports
fabrics like Lycra, then an overlocker will
save you so much time! I oen use a regularsewing machine, and select a narrow zigzag
stitch. Experiment with scraps of the fabric
you plan to sew with.
Sew with a ballpoint jersey
needle. is type of needle has
a rounded point so it separates the
fibres rather than piercing them
as it sews, stopping the fabric from
laddering. Choose a size appropriate to
the weight of your fabric as you would
with a woven fabric.
Try using a stretch twin needle forhemming, it gives a really professional
finish and allows the fabric to stretch.
Here’s our video on using twin needles
for hemming
MY TOP 5 SEWING GADGETS
I am a total sewing-gadget fiend and I’m
oen asked what my favourite essential
tools are. It was hard to get them down
to just five, but here they are…
A bias binder maker: this is an awesome
little gadget. Use up scrap fabrics to makematching bias binding. Available readily, but
I like to use Fusible Bias Binding Tape Maker,
£7.10, www.jaycotts.co.uk
A sleeve board:
essential for alterations
and making sleeves and
trousers. Metalex 12x41cm
Jeanette Sleeve Tabletop
Ironing board, £6.60,
www.amazon.co.uk
A double-ended tracing
wheel: great for adding seam
allowance aer you’ve traced an originalgarment or altered a sewing pattern.
Clover Double Tracing Wheel, £7.14,
www.jaycotts.co.uk
A bobbin holder with a foam insert: this
is a totally cool bit of kit that stops bobbins
from falling out. Dritz Bobbin Box with
foam insert, £4.88, www.amazon.co.uk
A tailor’s pressing ham: I can’t do
without mine for pressing darts, princess
seams and all sorts of curved stuff.
Essential. Tailor’s Press Ham, £11.18,
www.jaycotts.co.uk
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letters
Got a question for Wendy Ward? Or a project to share? Get in touch by emailing us at [email protected]
QI’ve just started sewing, what’s the
best sewing machine to buy?
A Rule 1: Don’t buy a sewing machine fromsomewhere like a discount supermarket,
buy from a specialist sewing machine retailerthat has machines on display for you to try out.For dressmaking, avoid the many ‘all singing,
all dancing’ machines with a ton of fancystitches, I guarantee you won’t use them. Allyou need, especially on your first machine, is:• straight stitch
• zigzag stitch
• a selection of stretch stitches• buttonholes• ability to control the stitch length and
stitch width
• a free arm (so you can slip sleeves andtrouser legs under the needle easily).
About me I have my own
business called
MIY Workshop in
Brighton where
I teach sewing,
dressmaking
and pattern
cutting. I am a
qualified teacher,
have a degree in fashion and spent seven
years working in the fashion industry before
starting to teach in 2007. My first dressmaking
book The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking is
available now. I also design my own range of
sewing patterns called MIY Collection.
www.wendyward.co.uk
www.miyworkshop.co.uk
www.miycollection.com
QThe zigzagging on my seam
allowances is really messy, how
can I make it neater?
A You need an overcasting or ‘overlockfoot’. ey don’t oen come as standard
with new machines, but you can buy themas an extra attachment and they’re well
worth it. Once you’ve used one and seen theresults you’ll never want to be without it.ey’re a great alternative if you don’t have anoverlocker and give an almost as neat finish. Ifyou’re going to invest in one, be sure you buy
the correct one for your make and model ofmachine, an incorrect one can lead to brokenneedles, tangled threads and tears!
QWhy does my fabric feel like it’s
stuck under the machine when I try
to take it out at the end of my sewing?
A is is one of those things that is mostlikely to get new sewists instantly in a
tangle and put them off sewing and to myamazement it’s something that never seems to
be well explained in sewing machine manuals.Follow this simple foolproof method:Don’t sew off the end of your fabricUsing the handwheel on the machine, turnit towards you at the end of your sewing
so that the needle is in its highest position(when the silver hook that moves up anddown is at its highest point too). Remove
your fabric easily without the need towrestle with your machine!
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My Pattern PicksAlice Wang
Alice Wang, the blogger behind Queen of Darts, hascertainly had a unconventional sewing journey – one
of her very first makes was her own wedding dress!Here she shares her five favourite sewing patterns
MCCALLS 2401
If you have seen my blog, you will
know that this is one of my all-time
favourite patterns. Four versions
later, I am planning my next. This
dress pattern is so simple, yet so
versatile given all its neckline and
sleeve variations. Let me warn
you though, that the design and
wearing ease included in this
pattern is very generous, so I wouldrecommend making a muslin first.
But don’t be put off by this – once
you’ve perfected the fit, you won’t
get enough of this simple, yet
wonderful pattern!
www.sewdirect.com
SIMPLICITY 2311
Coats may seem difficult to sew for some
(and I was certainly one of those people
until I tried out this pattern), but they
are really not that different to dresses in
their construction, when you break down
the steps. As with most Project Runway
patterns, this one provides a wealth of
opportunities to create a coat that is true
to your own style.
www.simplicitynewlook.com
16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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SEWAHOLIC ALMA BLOUSE
Alma is a super-pretty woven blouse, with great optional extras like a notched
neckline, cap sleeves, a Peter Pan collar and a tie belt. This pattern is designed by the
lovely Tasia, one of the most talented sewing ladies out there. What I love the most is
the level of attention that Tasia has clearly given to the creation of this pattern -- it is
incredibly well-draed, and the instructions couldn’t be clearer. What’s more? You can
now buy this pattern in paper or PDF form!
www.sewaholicpatterns.com
VOGUE 1137
This is one of Vogue’s vintage reproductions, based on
an original 1950s design. For the money you get both a
dress and a fabulous coat, and also a multi-sized vintage
pattern! I adore the style of the dress – the V-shaped
neckline at the front is just right, as it is elegant yet
profound; but the real bonus is the slightly higher V-neck
at the back.
www.sewdirect.com
SIMPLICITY 1368
I selected this pattern to share because 1)
I haven’t seen too many versions of this
around yet and 2) It is one of the quickest
yet most rewarding projects that I have
ever made! Got half an hour? Give this a
go! This is truly a ‘Learn to Sew’ pattern –
if you are scared of knits, then this would
be a perfect introduction, taking it step by
step without scaring you off knits. What’s
more, you can complete the whole thing
with your regular sewing machine (so no
need for an overlocker).
www.simplicitynewlook.com
Read more about Alice’s creations,
tips and tutorials on her blog,
www.queenofdarts.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17
MY PATTERN PICKS
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LOVE SEWING READER'S MAKES
Readers ’
MAKES
If you've made something using the projects or patterns in LoveSewing, tell us about it and we'll publish it. Share it on our
Facebook page or email us at [email protected]. Eachmonth's Star Make will receive a Minerva Cras fabric bundle
worth £25, handpicked by Vicki at Minerva herself!
P Thrifty sewing for me too!£3 quilt cover from the localcharity shop... bodice from theBella pattern (minus sleeves andcollar) and a full skirt! And myfirst-ever invisible zip insertion!
Getting there. Thank you!Emma Pawley
P My makes from issue 11.Made in three hours andcosting just 50p per metre offabric from local rag market. Ican't afford expensive fabricand want to show peoplethat making sewing is not an
expensive hobby. Love Sewing patterns are so simple tofollow and I have even used
old bed sheets to make skirts.Queri Alexander
P My Ruby dress inDisney World. It hastiny little fish all overthe fabric, so withmy shell necklace Iwas going for a LittleMermaid/Finding
Nemo theme! Adele Kirby
P Made with the fat quarter that came freewith issue 10... I don’t usually show everyone
my 'frillies' but for you... taaadahhhh!Daisy Jones
P These are are mydungarees needlecord, made byfollowing the patternfor a 2 year old,modelled by my tallerthan average 16 monthold. Just fitting forsize before I add thebuttons. A lovely, easypattern to follow, formy first-ever garment!Becky Payne
P I used the Rubybodice to giveme the widthand length ofthe bodice thenmodified it to myown pattern adding
a different necklineand little cap
sleevesCorrinne Davidson
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The Burda Young pattern 7051 Each month, a Minerva Cra Network blogger shares their latest dressmaking
project. Here, Lucie from Yorkshire shows off her Burda blouse
"is is a Burda Young pattern 7051. Ilove it. I’m sure shall make it again and again.is success is helped by the amazing stretchdenim fabric. I must admit that I was quitescared when I opened what I had ordered for
this particular Minerva Cras post make. It
was a little brighter than I has realised.You can find the fabric online at www.
minervacras.com, and for only £7.99 permetre, it’s a winner!
is top is also the first I have madewith the help of my new assistant, Lola(Adjustoform Tailor’s Dummy SupafitStandard Dress Model). She and I havebecome the best of pals. She is so much more
patient than my previous assistant.It was so much easier and faster to get the
fit I wanted. I took in the front darts to makeit a little curvier at the waist and also took ½”down the back seam as I wanted a snug fit,
especially using the stretch denim.
My aim for this particular project was to
include my first invisible zip.Note the rather pleasing pattern match!ere are quite a few things I have learnt
from this particular make:
Sizes on patterns no way represent the
clothes size you wear. My measurementsmeant I needed a size 14, which is a littledifferent to the usual size 10 I take. I took mymuslin in only down the front darts and ½”down the back seam. If I used a non-stretch
fabric I would have adjusted even less.
Invisible zips are not to be avoided –they’re a zinch.
Due to the stretch of the cotton you canachieve a glove-like fit.
Cut the yoke out longer than you need; the
yoke came out a little mean, which meant itbarely reached around to the zip at the back. Icut a second more generous version.
I’m so very pleased with this make. It fitslike a glove and is so comfortable to wear.
Roll on summer!
THIS MONTH I'M MAKING...
The Minerva CraftsBlogger Network
The Minerva CraftsBlogger network
is a collection of
amazing sewing
and craft bloggers from
across the world. Every month each blogger
creates a unique kit from the thousands
of gorgeous fabrics and notions available
at Minerva Crafts. In turn they wow us with
their makes every month by blogging a
project made with their kit on the network.
There are new projects going live daily to
inspire and educate sewists of all levels
and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are
available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com
This Month I’m Making…
To find out more and the list of materialsused, visit www.minervacra s.com/blogger-
network/post/burda-7051Follow Lucie’s blog at lovelucie1.wordpress.com
Note the rather pleasing patter
atch!
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For your chance to win a Singer
sewing class with Patrick Grant– contact one of the Singer SewingMachine stockists on this page!
The Sewing Machine Shop
We supply the full rangeof Singer sewing machines &overlockers at discount prices. We offer expert advice with asuperb aftersales service.Free UK delivery.
www.thesewingmachineshop.co.uk
Freephone 0800 026 77 76
310 Wimborne Road, Winton, Bournemouth, BH9 2HN
We offer a good value comprehensive and personal service. Our
business has been built on recommendations and we are proud of the
exceptional reputation we have for quality and competitive prices. We
represent the UK with full after sales and extensive range of top-brand
sewing machines authorised sales and after care for brands such as
Singer, Janome, Brother, Pfaff, Elna and Husqvarna Viking.
www.sewingmachine-sales.co.uk 219 Whitley Road, Whitley Bay, Tyne and Wear, NE26 2SY
0845 4309824
Singer Sewing Centre Coventry • All clothing alterations including Evening and Bridal wear
• Haberdashery• Fabrics
• Sewing patterns
• Knitting wool and patterns
• Sewing machine and over locker repairs
• Fabrics
• Dry Cleaning Service
Tel 024 7655 528267 Corporation Street, Coventry, West Midlands, CV1 1GX
Your Local Sewing Machine Repair Shop serving South London and Surrey
Redgwell Sewing Machines is a family run business established in 1960’s.
Three generations of family have worked, or do work, in the shop.
The company was originally located in South london and is now one of
Surreys premier suppliers of sewing machines.
www.surreysewingmachines.co.uk 123 Central Road ,Worcester Park, Surrey, KT4 8DY
020 8337 3444
Fully Trained engineers on site work shop and we also offer free local
collection and delivery. New and used machines in stock main agent of
janome, singer, toyota and silver.
We are an independent, friendly, family owned and run
business in York Road, just off the High Street in Southend on
Sea, established for over 30 years. We carry an extensive range
of both Singer and Pfaff machine plus haberdashery, servicing
and accessories for both brands.
Come see our life size cut out of Patrick Grant from the BBC’s
Sewing Bee.
Phone:- 01702601931
Websites:- www.singersewingplus.co.uk
Click and collect website:- www.discountsewingcentre.co.uk
Singer Sewing Centre, 42 York Road, Southend-0n-Sea, Essex, SS1 2BDLogo Copyright © SVP Worldwide 2014.
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We've rounded-up a handful of stockists on the page opposite –for more head to www.singerco.co.uk
Put your sewing skills to the test with the Great BritishSewing Bee’s dapper judge, courtesy of SINGER
If you’re the sort of person that lovessewing and has a TV, we’re sure themoustachioed heart-throb from
BBC’s Great British Sewing Bee needs nointroduction, but for those of you thatdon’t tune in to our favourite programmeof the year, don’t doubt Patrick Grant’ssewing credentials.
When he’s not busy judging the SewingBee, he spends his days as a Savile Row
Patrick Grant’s
Sewing School
Win a place at
tailor, overseeing some of the best stitching you’ll find in the UK for his fashionbrands, all the while sporting a finelytailored suit of his own creation.
is year, Patrick has teamed up withSinger sewing machines once again foran exclusive competition to win a place ata fun half-day sewing session at Singer’sLondon sewing school. ere’s no judginginvolved, just some helpful advice and
guidance to customise a garment of yourchoice with support from Patrick and therest of Singer’s sewing experts.
To be in with a chance to win this specialprize, all you have to do is buy a newSinger sewing machine from an authorisedstockist before 31st May 2015 and you’ll
be entered into the draw. With a day ofwinners in July and September, it’s a greatchance to meet one of your sewing idolsand pick up some essential sewing tips.Aer that, you might just feel up to thechallenge of entering the Sewing Bee for yourself and meeting him again.
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Master home-sewing in France20TH – 27TH JUNE
Bergerac, France
Sue Hazell runs the Oxford International School of SewingTuition, which holds sewing holidays across the UK andabroad and this summer sees them journey to the Frenchcountryside with a week-long sewing course in the province ofBergerac. Included in the price for your week away, you’ll be
well-fed and looked aer, plied with fabric and you’ll get to dolots of sewing with the course tutors, who’ll help narrow downhow you spend your time by getting you to choose five areas
of interest when booking. From basic skills to overlocking,curtain and blind making to inserting zips, it’s a great way toguarantee beforehand what you’ll cover and make sure youget what you want from the trip. Trips to markets and fabricshops help break up the week, and ensure you’ll have a greattime mingling with like-minded souls.
BOOK IT NOW: Head to www.sewing-tuition.co.uk to findout more. The trip to France costs £1,500 for seven days,not including flights and transfers and there are paymentoptions to spread the costs. W e ek - l o n g s e w i n g i
n t h e
F r e n c h c o u n t y s i d e22 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Planning your next holiday? Book onto one ofthese sewing-based vacations you’ll be making
more than just memories
A weekend spent sewing up a storm in a beautiful settingsounds pretty much like the perfect way to spend acouple of days, so, thankfully, more and more tutors and
hotels are teaming up to create residential sewing courses. eidea is simple – you book in with friends or by yourself (aer all, you know you’ll share at least one big interest with everyone elseon the course) and spend the next few days wiling away the timewith a sewing machine, craing a certain project or mastering a
TO BOOK NOW!
Sewing Retreats
technique. You can oen bring a partner for a reduced fee too ifthey’re not taking the course, so while you’re sewing they can beout enjoying some of the other delights of the local area.
With the holiday season heading our way, we’ve sought out
some of the best, newest and most exciting sounding residential
sewing courses that you can pop online and book today. So get
those diaries out and get planning your perfect getaway.
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Take steps into dressmaking with
Alice and Ginny at West Dean4TH – 7TH JUNE
West Dean College, Near Chichester, East Sussex
If you’ve not discovered West Dean before, then we definitelyrecommend a trip to its website www.westdean.org.uk tocheck out the full range of creative residential courses – if it’sto do with making, we’re pretty sure you can do it at WestDean. However, the one that takes our fancy most is heldby craing duo Alice and Ginny this summer. The course is
perfect for beginners of dressmaking who are comfortablewith a sewing machine already, with the aim of producinga pretty summer skirt by the end of the four days. Thegirls will hold your hand through reading, using, alteringand adapting a commercial A line or pencil skirt pattern
with a zip and give you the opportunity to get creative andcustomise it to really make it your own. “We are excitedabout encouraging our students to make fabulously made tomeasure skirts which express their personality,” say Alice andGinny, who make sure you’re well taken care of so you can
get immersed in your creative pursuits. West Dean’s mansionhouse is a great setting, full of light and airy studios, anddelicious food for some serious sewing fuel.
BOOK IT NOW: The course costs £332 including meals,and accommodation can be booked at an extra price.Head to www.westdeancollege.org.uk for full course andaccommodation details. West Dean, Nr Chichester, West
Sussex, PO18 0QZ
Soak up the sun in Italy at La Serena23RD – 27TH SEPTEMBER
La Serena, Castiglione della Valle, Perugia, Italy
Sewing in the sun-kissed Italian countryside sounds likethe perfect slice of heaven and one of these holidays at LaSerena in the region of Umbria won’t set your purse back as
much as you think. Owner Steph Mather has over 40 yearsexperience in sewing techniques, and she prides herself ondesigning each course to suit those who’ve booked on, so ifyou’re struggling with your facings, need a hand to perfectdarts or have a specific project you want to tackle, she’lldo her best to make it work, whether you’re a group or anindividual. All the equipment and notions are included – sono need to check your sewing machine onto the plane, so allyou need to pack is your project. You can even extend your
stay to eight days if you’re aer more time fabric shoppingand exploring the wonders of Umbria.
BOOK IT NOW: A five-day course costs £550 and includeseverything except flights, transfers, insurance andspending money. Book in for September now at
www.laserenaumbria.com S e w i n g b y t h e p o o l ?
W e s t D e a n ’ s m a n s i o n
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23
P e r f ec t r e t r e a t f o r t h o s e n e w t o d r e s s m a k i n g
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Learn from the best in the Lake Districtwith Alison Smith10TH – 14TH MAY
Castle Inn Hotel, Bassenthwaite, Cumbria
If you’re a regular Love Sewing reader, you’ll have beenlearning couture sewing tips and tricks from Alison SmithMBE from her column in the magazine for a while, but now
her School of Sewing (www.schoolofsewing.co.uk) isembarking on its first sewing retreat in the beautiful LakeDistrict. Based at the Castle Inn Hotel in Bassenthwaite,the four and a half day trip not only includes plenty of timewith Alison and another tutor working on whatever sewingprojects you like, it also includes a trip to Linton – home oflegendary Linton tweeds whose history includes workingwith Chanel, where you’ll be able to shop fabric and yarns,as well as visiting the fabric factory outlet.
Alison told us what part of the trip she’s most excited for:“We are also going to visit a print works that print for
designers guild and Clark and Clark - these fabrics are great
for cras or summer coats and jackets!”
BOOK IT NOW: The trip takes place between Sunday 10th May – Thursday 14th May 2015 and costs £800, which can alsobe paid in installments. Visit www.schoolofsewing.co.uk to book. The price includes lunch at the hotel, coach travelto Linton, aernoon tea on the Sunday and full tuition fromAlison and another tutor. Accommodation can be bookedseparately through the Castle Inn Hotel, Bassenthwaite, NrKeswick, Cumbria CA12 4RG; call 01768 776401.
L e a r n f r o m t h e b e s t !
24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Holiday ChecklistBefore you head out on your trip, hereare some key things to consider for
your booking
Sewing MachineWill you be required to take your own, or will you be providedwith one? If you’re not comfortable with unfamiliar machines,technique workshops might be best to take on your old faithful.If you’re required to take your own machine, be sure to check
the small print of the holiday booking. If you’re plugging it into a commercial property, they may require all machines overthree years old to be PAT-tested beforehand. If in doubt, checkwith the retreat operator.
Choose the Right Difficulty Level When you’re making a booking, look out for key informationabout the level of sewing the course is aimed at. Those who arebeginners at dressmaking will have more basic skills to thosewho are beginners at sewing altogether, and you’ll find yourself
quickly frustrated if you’re on a course for a weekend that’s toohard or to easy for your own level.
Prepare Though we’re sure you’ll find yourself sewing and chatting longinto the night, you’ve only got a certain amount of time withyour tutor, who’ll also be working with others on the course. Doa little research beforehand and prepare any sewing questionsyou’re desperate to have answered so you’re not kickingyourself when the time comes to check out!
InsuranceWhen you’re paying for your teacher’s time and expertise aswell as your holiday, you’ll find yourself paying more for yourtrip. If the worst should happen, make sure you’re covered forillness and cancellation.
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Each issue of Love Sewing is full of high-quality, practical sewing projects. Be partof a close-knit community of makers whoare discovering the joy of creating more forthemselves.
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family and wardrobe – even with only basic sewing skills!Whether you’re a complete beginner or already an avidmaker, every issue will inspire and build your skills,from mastering your machine to perfecting your sewingtechniques.
Subscribe today and get yourfirst three issues of Love Sewing for just £6 – SAVE £11.97!
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We are the largest stockist of liberty printed fabricworldwide with the lowest prices and variety to offer
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In this month's issue, we have dressmaking projects for all abilities, from a SIMPLE SKATERSKIRT to a COUTURESTANDARD DRESS by the team at e Great British Sewing Bee. We also
show you how to sew yout way to a tidier home with a range of handy STORAGESOLUTIONPROJECTS, from THREAD CATCHERS to BAGS AND BASKETS for the bathroom and nursery
4 5 P A G E S
o f pr o j e c t s s t a r t he r e
O WOOL DRESS O SKATER SKIRT O PILLOWCASES O APPLIQUÉD CUSHIONS
30
36
Wooldress
46
74
L a c y pi l l o w c a s e s
Sewing room tidy
Skater skirt
35
Kimonodress
Projects
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29
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Drapey
Designed to flatter all figures, this elegant dresshas a fantastic silhouetteinspired by contemporary Japanese cutting styles. Made up of just three
main body pieces, it features kimono sleeves,hidden pockets and astylish front pleat detail
Project: CL HARDIE
dress
P A T T E R N F R E E
D o w nl o a d yo ur
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DRAPEY KNIT DRESS
section and then understitch between thedots on the pocket side of the joining line,not the centre front.
ATTACH THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONTS
TO THE CENTRE FRONT
With RST, making sure the raw edgesand pockets align, lay the le front over the
centre front. Pin along the seam and aroundthe pocket. Machine-sew, pivoting at thepreviously stitched points around the pocket.Clip into the corner of the le front at the
pocket junction so that you can press the seam
Note that all widths will require the frontpieces to be cut out on a single layer of fabricwith the right side of the fabric facing up and
the pattern pieces facing right side up. Traceoff the pattern pieces – centre front, le front,right front, back, front facing, back facingand pocket. Cut out and transfer any pattern
markings to the fabric.
Skill level: : OOO
MATERIALS:
O stable double-knit jersey fabric: 1.9 m (2 yd)
fabric 150 cm (60 in.) wide or 2.5 m 114 cm of
45”-wide fabric
O 20cm lightweight iron-on knit or bias
interfacing
O co-ordinating sewing machine thread
O ballpoint or stretch twin needle
O basic sewing kit
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS:
O Stable double-knit jersey such as Ponte
Roma. Not suitable for Lycra or any fabric
with an excessive amount of stretch.
Note: 1.5cm seam allowances included
throughout, unless otherwise stated. The dresscan be sewn either a zigzag stitch on a regular
CL says:
“is is the favourite ofmy patterns
from thenew Sewing
Book, FashionWith Fabric.
It’s designed to be made up indouble-knit jersey, oen calledPonte Roma, which is a stableknit suitable for anyone scaredof sewing stretch. is is a greatdress for transitional seasons, asit works well on its own or withchunky tights and a fitted top”
PREPARE THE FACINGS
Following the manufacturer’s instructions,apply lightweight knitted interfacing to thewrong side of the front and back facings.
ATTACH THE POCKET BAGS
TO THE CENTRE FRONT
With RST, matching the dots, pin and sewthe pockets onto the centre front section,sewing between the marked points only.
Working from the RS, press the pockets
and seam allowances away from the body
ll l I
ll l
FINISHED
MEASUREMENTS
XS(8-10)
S(10-12)
M(12-14)
L(14-16)
XL(18-20)
BUST (cm) 142 147 152 157 162
BUST (") 55 57 ½ 59 ½ 61 63 ½
WAIST (cm) 114 119 124 129 134
WAIST (") 44 46 ½ 48 50 52 ½
HIP (cm) 110 115 120 125 130
HIP (") 43 45 47 49 51
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DRAPEYKNIT DRESS
MAKE THE FACINGS AND
FINISH THE NECKLINE
Zigzag-stitch or overlock the lower hem
edge of the facings to neaten them. With RST,pin then stitch the facings together alongthe short side edges to form a loop. Pressthe seams open. With RST, pin the facingsaround the neckline, matching the centre
fronts and centre backs and matching theshoulder seams of the dress with the sideseams of the facings. Sew in place.
Grade the seam allowance around theneckline and clip into the curves.
Working from the RS, under-stitch thefacing to the seam allowance around the
neckline. Turn the facing to the inside of thedress and press from the WS, making surethat the seam sits just inside the neck. Securethe hem of the facing to the shoulders and thefront seams with a few small hand stitches.
JOIN THE SIDE SEAMS
Pin and sew the front to the back at theside seams, from the sleeve down to the hemin one continuous line of stitching.
HEM THE DRESS
Press under a 1.5cm hem around thesleeve ends. Fit a ballpoint or stretch twinneedle to your machine. Working from theRS, pin and machine the hem in place.
Hem the bottom of the dress in the same
way as the sleeves, pressing under a 2.5cm hem.
allowance open. Repeat Step 3 to attach theright front to the other side of the centre front.
CREATE THE FRONT PLEAT Fold the le front pleat along the marked
fold line, then take the fold line over thecentre-front seams you’ve just sewn towardsthe right-hand side, matching up all threecentre front circle marks. Tack around thefront neckline to secure the pleat.
STITCH THE SHOULDERS
With RST, pin and stitch the front of thedress to the back at the shoulder seams. Pressthe seams towards the back.
. .
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I ll
l l
l l
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T.01472 600874. [email protected]
www.lcfabrics.co.uk
At L & C Fabrics,
We sew, we make, we create
We haved moved to our new store at
217 -219 Grimsby Road, Cleethorpes, DN25 7HB
and we have a fabulous range of fabrics, haberdashery, sewing
machines, sewing furniture, patchwork classes, sewing classes
and a lovely tea room for you to enjoy a fresh coffee, tea and
some yummy cakes. Our fabrics are by Moda, Riley & Blake,
Michael Miller, Hantex, John Louden, Fabric Freedom,
Nutex Macower, stoff
217-219 Grimsby Road,
Cleethorpes, DN35 7HB
FREE CAR PARKING!
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Spring
Tis jersey circle skirtis easy to make andwear. With no zipto tackle, it’s a greatdressmaking project for beginners
Project: FIONA HESFORD
We used...
Purple PonyCotton Jersey,£18 per metrewww.kitschycoo.bigcartel.com
Skater
skir t
P A T T E R N
F R E EU s e yo ur
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SKATER SPRING SKATER SKIRT
Skill level: : O
MATERIALS:
O 1.2m fabric at 150cm wide or 1.4m of fabric if
your fabric is 112cm wide
FINISHED SIZE:
8-10 (SMALL)
Hip 87cm – 91.5cm
Finished length from top of waistband 48cm
12-14 (MEDIUM)
Hip 96cm – 102cm
Finished length from top of waistband 48cm
16-18 (LARGE)
Hip 107 cm – 112cm
Finished length from top of waistband 48cm
TEMPLATE GUIDE:
(1) = skirt, (2) = pocket, (3) = waistband,
CUTTING LIST:
Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so
the selvedges are lined up.
Start by cutting out out your templates as follows:
Template 1: Skirt with pattern lined up against
the fold of the fabric cut out two pieces (front
and back) cut along the required size line and
cut notches outwards.
Template 2: pockets (optional)
With the remainder fabric cut out the pockets iecut out two pattern pieces on folded fabric so you
have four pieces altogether. Make sure the pattern
is lined up to the straight grain of the fabric.
Template 3: (waistband)
With the template lined up to the fold, cut one
piece to the required size.
Fiona says:
“I added a
couple of side pockets. I love
a pocket butleave them outif you prefer”
Tips for sewing jersey: Use a jersey/stretch or ballpoint needle in your
machine, I used a size 70. For stitching seams whichwill be stretched its best to stitch a small zigzag
stitch ie 1.5 width and 2.2 length to allow for 'give'.Finish raw edges with a zigzag or overlocker.
WAISTBAND
Taking your waistband piece, fold over in half
widthways matching up the short ends with RST.Stitch a 1cm seam along this short seam. Pressseam open so you have a fabric ring. (See Pic D.)
Fold waistband strip in half along the longlength with RST matching up the raw edges.(See Pic E.) Pin to top raw edge of skirt all
around, stretching it a little as you go so thewaistband is distributed evenly all around.Tack-stitch to hold in place, then removepins. (See Pics F and G.)
Stitch a 1cm seam with a small zigzagstitch and stretch a little as you go this will
allow the seam to extend when stretched.Finish raw edges.
HEMMING THE SKIRT
Finish the raw lower edge of your skirt
and turn up to the required length, pin thenstitch all around close to edge on the WS.(Note: A 2cm hem will make the skirt 48cmlong from the top of the waistband). (See picsH and I.)
POCKETS
Starting with the side pockets and withRST lay a pocket piece on to the skirt at eachside between the notches. Stitch a 1cm seamat pocket only. Finish raw edge of pocket
seam and press pocket open away from skirt.Stitch again close to the seam (4mm) on theRS. Repeat for all four pocket pieces so eachskirt piece has a pocket piece at each side.(See pics A and B.)
SEWING THE SKIRT
Lay one skirt piece on top of the other with
RST. Pin at sides and around pockets matchingup the raw edges. Stitch a 1cm seam and finishthe raw edges together. Press. (See Pic C.)
Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014. All rights reserved www.sewgirl.co.uk
C
D
F
G
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A B
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Win
Kit out your wardrobe with this complete set of gorgeousdesigns from the Sew Cray Sewing Centre
To enter, visit www.ppjump.com/lovesewing12 By entering this competition you accept that your details may be passed on to a third party. Competition open to UK entrants only. Closing date 30th April, 2015
By Hand London is the independent pattern company on the shelves of every discerning seamstress’s sewing
room and its collection is ever growing. At the Knitting and Stitching Show in London last month, the girls
from By Hand debuted its latest design, the Sophia Dress.
is party dress is a versatile make, with Version 1 a vintage-lover’s dream – bold skirt panels and a wide sailor
collar, while Version 2 is an edgy, sculptured dress with angular darts.
If you fancy adding these beautifully packaged patterns to your collection, then you’ll be glad to hear we’ve
teamed up with the Sew Cray Sewing Centre to offer one lucky winner an amazing prize of a printed pattern
of the Sophia Dress alongside the rest of By Hand London’s back catalogue – all nine of them. And if you can’t
wait to start your By Hand London collection, head to www.sewcrayonline.com to buy your patterns now.
a By Hand London
Pattern Collection
Wo r t h
o ve r £1 2 0
Sophiaversion 2
Sophiaversion 1 The
'Kim' dress
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SPRING SHOWERS APPLIQUÉ TEE
Spring Showers
Use our rainbow-themed template pieces to bringspring cheer and colour to a plain tee
Project: VICTORIA PEAT, Little Black Duck
Appliqué tee
T E M P L A T E S
F R E EU s e yo ur
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SPRING SHOWERS APPLIQUÉ TEE
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O free template sheet O plain T-shirt
O BondawebO cotton in the following sizes & colours:
red 3x6” piece; orange 4x6” piece; yellow5”-square piece; green 2x4" piece; darkblue 2x3” piece; pink 1x3” piece; white3x4” piece & light blue 3”-square piece
O Stitch-n-TearO co-ordinating thread
Trace all pattern pieces onto the paper sideof the Bondaweb (remembering to reverse thecloud shape) and roughly cut out (about ¼ ”
from the pattern line).
Iron Bondaweb shapes onto the WS ofyour fabrics and cut out.
Arrange all of the pieces on your T-shirt.
Layer the rainbow stripes on top of eachother, starting with the red first.
Iron in place the rainbow and the sun,putting to one side the cloud and raindrops
for the time being. Attach stabiliser on theinside of the T-shirt.
Sew around the centre of the sun witha zigzag stitch. Stitch around the sun’s rays
with a straight stitch close to the outeredges. (See Pic A.)
A
B
C
Sew around the edges of the Rainbowstripes with a zigzag stitch, changing thread
colour for each stripe. (See Pic B.)
Position the cloud over the bottom of therainbow and the raindrops under the cloud.Iron in place. Sew cloud in place with a zigzagstitch. Sew the raindrops in place with a straight
stitch close to the outer edges. (See Pic C.)
Pull all threads through to the inside ofthe T-shirt, tie off and cut away any excess
thread. Remove excess stabiliser from theinside of the T-shirt.
Victoria says:
“You can usethis design onany plain top
or T-shirt.e appliqué
design (or partof the design) could also be applied
to other items such as a jumper,
trousers, a tote bag or a cushion"
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Ruffle
Using a lush Liberty printand tulle ruffl es, this sweetdesign is perfect for a 1stbirthday party
Project: CRYSTAL MOTES
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O 61cm of 115cm- or 150cm-wide
lightweight patterned fabric
O 45.5cm coloured tulle in same
width as fabric
O scissors
O pin
O hand-sewing needle &
thread/sewing machine
O iron & ironing boar
O tailor’s pencil or water-soluble marker
O 43cm of 2.5cm-wide elastic
O Safety pin
FINISHED SIZE:
The finished skirt measures 23 cm long,
which will fit an average one-year-old –
to adjust to any size, see notes at the
end of this pattern.
Party skirt
Handmade forBaby - 25 Keepsakesto Create with loveby Charlotte Rivers
& Emily Gregory.Published by ApplePress, £12.99
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RUFFLE PARTY SKIRT
Create a casing for the elastic by sewingaround the skirt 3.2cm from the top edge.Start sewing towards the back of the skirt andstop sewing when you are about 5cm fromyour starting point. Use running stitch or
straight stitch.
Attach a safety pin to the end of the elasticto help feed it through the casing. Li thetop tier of the skirt and insert the elastic in
the opening at the back of the skirt. Push theelastic all the way through the casing until itcomes out the other side. (See Pic H.)
Overlap the ends of the elastic about 2.5cmand sew them together using running stitchesif sewing by hand, or a wide zigzag stitch ona machine. Stretch the waistband to pull all
the elastic into the casing. Sew the hole closedusing running stitch or straight stitch.
ADAPTING THE RUFFLE SKIRT
You can also modify this skirt to makeany size. Determine the length of the skirt bymeasuring from the waist to the knee of thewearer. For the width, measure around the
waist. Cut the bottom tier pieces 3.2cm longerthan the length measurement and 2.5cmwider than the waist measurement. emiddle and top tiers will be the same width asthe bottom tier but will be 6.5cm and 12.5cm
shorter respectively. For an older child, youmay choose to cut the middle and top tierseven shorter so they are more proportionateto the size of the child. Cut the elastic to thesame length as the waist measurement.
Wash and dry the fabrics before startingwork. Measure out and cut them as follows:
two 12.5x45.5cm for top tier; two 19x45.5cmpieces for middle tier and two 25.5x45.5cmpieces for bottom tier. Cut the tulle into fourstrips, each measuring 11.5x114.5cm.
Put the two bottom-tier pieces RST, pinthem along the short sides and sew with a1cm seam allowance. Use running stitches ifsewing by hand, and straight stitches if using amachine. To prevent fraying, finish the seams
with blanket or whip stitch if sewing by hand,zigzag-stitch on a machine, or an overlocker.Press the seams with an iron. (See Pic A.)
Hem the bottom of this tier by ironingthe bottom edge under 1cm, then underanother 1cm and sewing along the folded
edge. Use running stitches or straightstitches. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with themiddle and top tiers. (See Pic B.)
Fold one of the tulle strips in half, liningup the long edges. Gather the strip along the
folded edge by sewing a basting stitch 1cmfrom the folded edge, then pulling on thebottom thread to gather the fabric until it isabout 45.5cm long. (See Pic C.) Repeat withall of the tulle strips.
With a tailor’s pencil or water-soluble
marker, draw a line around the bottom andmiddle tiers 7.5 cm above the hem.
Pin one of the tulle ruffl es along the line youdrew across the front of the bottom tier. (SeePic D.) Pin a second tulle ruffl e along the lineyou drew across the back of the tier. e ruffl es
should overlap slightly at the side seams.
Use running stitches if sewing by handand straight-stitch if using a machine. Sewover the basting stitch, 1cm from the foldededge. Repeat steps 6 and 7 to attach the
remaining two ruffl es on the middle tier.
With all three tiers RS out, tuck thebottom tier inside the middle tier and line upthe raw edges. en tuck the top tier insidethe other tiers, and line up the raw edges ofall three tiers. (See Pic E.)
You should have the bottom tiersandwiched between the top and middle
tiers. You will flip this the right way out later.
Pin the top raw edges of all three tierstogether and then sew all the way aroundthe top edge with a 1cm seam allowance.
Use running stitches or straight stitches. (Seepics F and G.) You can now flip the top tieroutside the skirt and iron the seam at the top.
A
B
D
E
CG
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Create a unique cushioncover motif with scraps
of your favourite fabrics
Project: KATY ORME, Apartment Apothecary
cushion coverAppliquéFlower
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APPLIQUÉ FLOWER CUSHION COVER
Get creative and sketch out your appliquédesign. Bold shapes work best when it comes
to stitching the design in place. (See Pic A.)
Follow the manufacturer’s instructionsto adhere the webbing to the fabric you planto use for the appliqué design. Draw aroundyour template onto the paper side of the
webbing and cut out your design. (See Pic B.)
Remove the paper and adhere the appliquépieces using an iron to what will be the frontpiece of your cushion cover. (See Pic C.)
Choose a blanket or zigzag stitch on yoursewing machine. Follow the outline of yourappliqué design and stitch all the way around,which will prevent the fabric from fraying.
(See pics D and E.)
Press your appliqué design once youhave completed the sewing stage.
To make an envelope cushion cover,
double-hem the two back pieces. (See Pic F.)
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O appliqué template design O lightweight cotton
O iron-on fusible webbing O fabric scissor, pins and iron O cushion inner pad
Top tip Practise Step 4 on scrap fabric,
if you have not tried it before. It canbe quite tricky and the best idea is touse co-ordinating thread, rather thana contrasting colour as this will hide
minor mistakes. You can do thisstep by hand if you are not
confident to usethe machine
We used...
Liberty Edenham TanaLawn, £14 per metre,www.shaukat.co.uk
Kona cotton in Curry,£8 per metre, www.
misformake.co.uk
Place the front piece of your cushion
cover down RS facing up (so you can see yourappliqué design). Place the two back piecesdown, WS facing up, with the hemmed edgesoverlapping each other in the middle (theyshould overlap by about 5cm). (See Pic G.)
Pin the pieces in place and stitch all the wayaround the cover with a 1cm seam allowance.
Cut away the corners, press out the seamsand turn the cover inside out. Press the whole
cover and insert the cushion pad. (See Pic H.)
C
F
A
D
G
B
E
H
You will need...
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Sof, silky lawn is perect or a place to lay yourhead. For a pretty, boholook, embellish withcoloured lace trim
Project:
AMANDA RUSSELL &JULIET BOWDEN, R&B DesignsPhotography: ANTONIA ATTWOOD
Lace-Trim
pillowcases
We used...
Danjo, BetsyPink and MargaretAnnie Liberty lawn,www.sewbox.co.uk
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LACE-TRIM PILLOWCASES
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O 1m Liberty lawn fabric
O pillowcase (from which to
copy the measurements)
O lace
O sewing thread
O tape measureO dressmaking pins
Measure the pillowcase add 1cm seamallowance to each side. (See Pic A.)
Measure the depth of the flap and addseam allowance to each side. (See Pic B.)
Cut a front and a back in one fabric andcut a flap in a contrast fabric.
Neaten one long side of the flap by turning
under 0.5cm and the same again, sew with arunning stitch. (See Pic C.)
Sew one piece of trim along the neatenededge of the flap. With RST, sew the flap ontoone narrow side of the back piece of fabric.
Press the seam flat. (See Pic D.)
Turn under, and under again, one narrowside of the, pillowcase, front fabric. Press, pinand sew on a piece of lace. (See pics E and F.)
With RS facing, pin the pillowcase front tothe pillowcase back so that the front openingreaches up to where the flap is. Sew with arunning stitch.
Fold the flap over, where you have justsewn so that the front of the flap faces the WSof the pillow front. Pin the sides of the flap tothe sides of the pillow and sew with a runningstitch. Turn through so that the fabric is the
correct way round.
R&B Designs say: “We bought white and light-coloured cotton lace from theCray Sewer ( www.craysewer.com ) and dyed it the lacewith some Dylon hand dyes
to complement our fabric. Alernatively, use some Etiennea French cotton deep colouredcotton lace fromwww.crayribbons.com
A
C
E
B
D
F
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Bored with your ironingboard? Give it a new lookwith a fresh floral-printcover that takes just a few minutes to make
Project and photography: KATY ORME,
Apartment Apothecary
cover
Ironing Board
Top tip Find more of Katy’s
projects and tutorials
at www.apartmentapothecary.co.uk
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IRONING BOARD COVER
Lay your fabric on the floor and place yourboard on top. Draw an outline of the board10cm from the edge. (See Pic A.)
Cut out around the line. (See Pic B.)
Iron a 1cm hem all around the piece offabric. (See Pic C.)
Fold the hem over again but this time thefold should be 2cm wide. You will need tomake pleats at certain points to get round thecurves of the board shape. Make sure all of the
pleats face the same direction. (See Pic D.)
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O medium-weight cotton
O fabric scissors
O the cord from your old cover
O pins
O pencil
Top tip You will need to make pleats
at certain points to getaround the curves of the
board shape. Make sure allof the pleats face the
same direction
We used...
Laura Ashley ClarissaMulti/Ivory fabric,£27 per metre,www.lauraashley.com
Remove the cord from your old board
cover and place it around the board withinthe channel you have created. Pin it into placeso it does not escape the channel. (See Pic E.)
Make sure the two ends of the cord meet
in the centre at the bottom end of the board(not the pointed head). Place two pins in
the channel, either side of the ends of thecord, so you know not to sew past thesepoints. (See Pic F.)
Sew the channel ensuring that the cordremains on the right side of the foot and doesnot get sewn over. Start sewing next to yourmarker pin. (See Pic G.)
Keep the foam from your old cover (youcan adhere this to your new cover with sprayglue but it’s not necessary) and place yournew cover over this. Pull the cords as tightlyas possible and tie in a bow. Give your new
cover an iron! (See Pic H.)
C
F
A
D
G
B
E
H
You will need...
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HANGING STACKER BAG
is handy storage bag is a great piece of kit for the nursery or bathroom.Simply hang it up and stack it up with nappies or other essentials
Project & photography: DEBBIE SHORE
HangingStacker bag
St o r a g e
So l ut i o n s
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HANGING STACKER BAG
Cover the foam board with fabric, tuckingthe fabric to the underside, and glue in place.
Fold in the ends of the strap fabric and press,then fold the sides into the centre, then fold inhalf again and press. Place one side of the hookand loop fastening on the end, then stitch all the
way around. Repeat to make two. (See Pic A.)
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O 15.3x28cm piece of foam board or
stiff card measuring
O 23x35.5cm piece of fabric to cover it
O 50.8x91cm piece of fabric for the bag
O two 10x20.4cm strips of fabric
for the straps
O two 5cm strips of hook and loop fastening O 28cm-long piece of 6mm dowelling
O spray fabric adhesive
O 3 buttons
Fold over the shorter sides of the bag fabric
twice and top stitch to hem. Fold the fabricin half, hemmed sides together, and fingercrease to make the centre point, then pin thetwo hemmed edges to this mark. Sew straightacross the edges, which will make the top and
bottom of the nursery bag. (See Pic B.)
At the bottom, measure 5cm in from
each side, and 5cm up, then cut out thesquare shape on each corner. Open up thecut sections and sew across them to form
the base of the bag. (See pics C and D.)
At the top, fold in either side by 6.3cmand pin. (See Pic E.)
At this point, insert the straps facinginwards, hook and loop ends first, at anequal distance from the edge, and re-stitchacross the seam. (See Pic F.)
Turn the right way round, fold over the
straps to see where to position the other half of
A
D
G
B
E
H
C
F
the hook and loop fastening, and sew in place.
Add buttons to decorate. (See Pic G.)
Insert the base into the bottom of the bag.Hand-stitch the opening with a ladder stitch,to around 10cm up the front of the opening.I popped a button on at this point to help
strengthen the seam. (See Pic H.)
Run a little glue across the dowelling andfit it across the inside of the top of the bag.Hang the nursery bag over the side of the
cot/crib, or on a coat hanger.
Sew Useful by DebbieShore is published bySearch Press, £6.99.To order a copy, visit
www.searchpress.com
Top tip Secure the seam on
the base of the stackerbag with a button
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ARMCHAIR SEWING TIDY
is handy foldover sewing tidy keeps your project and notionsclose to hand. It’s also a great place to keep the remote control!
Project & photography: BECKY CLARKE
Armchair
sewing tidy
St o r a g e
So l ut i o n s
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ARMCHAIR SEWING TIDY
Iron the binding pieces for the pockets in
half lengthways, then fold and iron the cutedges inwards to meet the fold. (See Pic A.)
Slip the long edge of one pocket pieceinside the binding so the top edge is at the
fold. Pin and stitch close to the folded edge.Repeat with the second pocket. (See Pic B.)
Iron a 1cm hem along the bottom edge of
the striped pocket. Place the pocket with ironed
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O 1m floral fabric
O 0.5m plain co-ordinating fabric
O 2 lengths of 5x28cm bias pieces (for pockets)
O 28x15cm of striped fabric (for backing)
CUTTING LIST:
O 28x75cm for outer piece and 28x15cm for
pocket from floral fabric
O 33x80cm for pocket piece from plain fabric
edge 8.5cm above the bottom edge of thefloral top fabric. Pin and stitch close to the fold.(See Pic C.)
Place the floral pocket overlapping thestriped, with cut edges level with those on thetop fabric. Pin in place. (See Pic D.)
Lay the plain backing piece face down on
the floor. Place the pocketed piece centrally(2.5cm of plain visible all round) and smooth
flat. Pin the two pieces together all the wayround the edge. (See Pic E.)
Fold the backing fabric over the frontcreasing along the edge of the top fabrics.Iron flat all the way round. (See Pic F.)
Along the two long edges, fold the cut edgeunder, iron flat, pin, and stitch. (See Pic G.)
Repeat on the two short edges, keeping thecorners neatly tucked in. (See Pic H.)
Use a few hand stitches to close the gap
in the four corners. (See Pic I.)
Try it with...
John Lewis Rose andSpot, £12 per metre,www.johnlewis.co.uk
A
D
G
B
E
H
C
F
I
Top tip An old floral-print
pillowcase is perfect
for this project
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St o r a g e
So l ut i o n s
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THE BIG & TIDY BASKET
Sandwich the stiffener between the outer
and lining fabric and iron to adhere. Makesure the fabrics are smooth and flat as youiron. Repeat for the other side of the basket.(See Pic A.)
Using the plate as your template, draw a
curve at the two top corners and then cut thecurve. Do this for both sides of the basket.
(See Pic B.)
For the handle, draw around the cup twice
on a piece of paper and join the two circleswith straight lines to create an oval template.Place this in the top centre of the basket,draw round it and cut out the shape. Curvedscissors will help here. Repeat for the other
side of the basket.
Take the strip of bias binding and press inhalf lengthways. Put a little glue round oneside of the handle hole and apply the biasbinding. Allow this to dry, then glue to the
other side. Do this for both handles.
basket
The Big& Tidy is durable, roomy storagesolution is perfect for toys,towels, laundry or an ever-
growing fabric stash!
Project: DEBBIE SHORE
Debbie says:
“You cantidy away
toys, fabricor towels inthis basket,
or use it forlaundry. Using stiffener makesthe fabric quite heavy, so you’ll
need a denim needle in yoursewing machine, and I glued on
the bias binding as it becametoo thick to fit under the presser
foot. I used a heavier weight fabric for the outside, as thishelps to keep the shape, and a
cotton lining fabric inside”
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O two 43x61cm pieces of outer fabric
O two 43x61cm pieces of lining fabric
O two 43x61cm pieces of medium-weight,
double-sided fusible stiffener
O 26.7cm-diameter circle of outer fabric
O 24cm-diameter circle of stiff cardboard
O 29cm-diameter circle of lining fabric
O 4.27m of 2.5cm bias binding O strong fabric glue
O large plate & cup to use as templates
O two buttons
O curved scissors
Sew Useful byDebbie Shore ispublished by SearchPress, £6.99.To order a copy, visitwww.searchpress.com
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THE BIG & TIDY BASKET
A
B
C D
E
Using the same technique, glue the biasbinding across the top of each side of thebasket and around 10cm (4") down each side.
(See Pic C.)
Machine-sew with a long stitch downeach side of the basket. Your walking foot
will be helpful here. Pin the circular base ofthe basket in place. is is easier if you putsome stuffi ng or something similar insidethe basket to keep the shape. (See Pic D.)
Sew using your sewing machine. e
basket is now quite large, so take your timeto manoeuvre it under the needle!
Glue bias binding down the sides, andwhen this is dry, round the base as well. Gluethe circle of lining fabric to the circular card
base, fold over the excess fabric and glue itround the underside. Press the base into the
bottom of the bag. (See Pic E.)
To strengthen the opening, sew a couple of
buttons at the top of the side seam.O
Top tip You'll need a walking
foot for part ofthis project
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www.newforestfabrics.co.uk t: 02381 783386 e: [email protected]
NEWFOREST
FABRICS
Lime Twist - The Henley Studio
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OMBRE–EFFECTROPE BASKETS
St o r a g e
So l ut i o n s
ese ingenious storage baskets are made with lengths of washing linecord and a few different thread colours. Just spiral, sew and build!
Project: EMILY LEVEY
Ombre-effect
Rope baskets
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OMBRE–EFFECT ROPE BASKETS
Fit the larger machine needle into yoursewing machine, reference your manual for
instructions if needed. read the machinewith your first colour, I like my basketsstarting with a darker colour at the base of thebasket and fading through to lighter coloursnear the top. Remember the bobbin thread
will be the one that is visible on the outsideof the completed basket. (See Pic A.)
Set the machine to a 5mm-wide zigzagstitch with a length of 4mm. We will start by
forming the base of the basket fromthe centre outwards. Uncoil a little of yourcord but leave the majority still wound up, itwill make it easier to manage. With the freeend make a little spiral that goes around two
or three times and secure with a pin. isstage always reminds me of a cumberlandsausage! (See Pic B.)
Ensuring that the coil is going clockwisewith the bulk of the coil on the le/outer
edge of your sewing machine, carefully stitch
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O traditional cotton washing line cord ”
thickness (30m for large basket, 20m for
medium basket & 15m for small basket)
O sewing threads
O ruler/tape measure
O pins
O 90/14 machine needle
Top tip A walking foot can be
really useful for sewing throughthe thick layers and keep
them feeding through yourmachine evenly
over the centre a few times, leaving the pin inuntil the last moment before removing it. Besure you have secured all the joins between
the cord. Do not be too concerned aboutneatness at this stage, it is more importantto secure the centre throughly. Leave yourwork in the machine for Step 4, ours hasbeen removed so you can see the detail of
the stitching. (See Pic C.)
Line the machine up so that you are readyto start introducing new cord to the outsideof the coil and stitch it down. Start stitching,
to begin with you will have to stop veryregularly and reposition the work, use yourfingers to carefully control the coil and newcord coming in. (See Pic D.)
Continue to stitch around, adding in newcord as you go. Control the work so thatone side of the zigzag stitch enters the innercoil of cord and the other half of the zigzagstitch enters the new piece of cord being
introduced on the outer side. Don’t worry
if your tension is a little off balance, the use
A
D
G
B
E
H
C
F
I
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OMBRE–EFFECT ROPE BASKETS
of varying threads and the thickness of thecord can affect it, but the basket will stillbe stable and strong, just ensure that whenyou introduce new cord it is wound tightly
around the coil. (See Pic E.)
Continue to stitch around adding in newcord until the base measures 7½ ” across forthe large basket, 6” for the medium basketand 4½ ” for the small basket. (See Pic F.)
Now tilt the base you have sewn asmuch as you can whilst still stitching aroundto begin to form the sides. (See Pic G.)
Continue to stitch around holding thebase up at the highest angle it will go, it willtake a few turns around before you see theside walls of the basket take shape. Once thesides are established start introducing new
colours of thread periodically. (See Pic H.)
Once the side walls are well establishedwe need to mark how much cord to leave
to form the handles before sewing too far.Take the free end of your length of cord andcarefully wrap it around the circumference ofthe top of your basket without taking it out of
the machine. e handles are made from threestrips around the top, so leave four times theamount you just measured out so you haveplenty. I find it handy to mark with a pin, oryou could wrap some tape around the cord.
Sew the side walls until you reach your
marked point for the handle cord (if you donot want handles simply continue sewinguntil all the cord is used up). Reverse stitchover the last inch to secure the point wherethe handle will attach to the basket. Now pull
the unattached cord away from the basket,and sew around the top of the basket without
adding in any new cord. e gap you leave
is entirely unto you but we used a 5” gap forthe large basket, a 4” gap for the mediumbasket and a 3” gap for the small basket.Now reintroduce the unattached cord, again
backstitching to secure where it rejoins thebasket. (See Pic I.)
Repeat Step 10 to make a second handleopposite the first. (See Pic J.)
Continue to sew around the top of thebasket until all the cord is used up or yourhandles are as wide as you wish them tobe. Finish the end of the cord with a knotor simply reverse-stitch over the end to
secure it to the basket. Be sure to removethe larger needle from your machinebefore moving onto the next project. Thisneedle will be work best for a few baskets,but should then be discarded as the heavy
sewing will blunt it quickly. (See Pic K.)
J
K
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Better choice, Better pricesBetter service & Free P&P(on UK mainland orders over £20)
Need advice?phone Jerry on 01373 454448
www.craftlamps.co.uk
On-line stockists of Liberty print fabrics, haberdashery and‘indie’ dressmaking & craing patterns.
Huge range of Liberty Tana Lawns, needlecord, jersey & Liberty Lifestyle.
For amazing offers call us on 01787 269366 or visit
www.sewbox.co.uk
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Keep mess to aminimum while yousew with this brilliant,simple bit of kit – a pincushion with
detachable thread catcher Project: EMILY LEVEY
& thread catcher
Pi cushio
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PINCUSHION & THREAD CATCHER
Skill level : OO
MATERIALS:
O approximately a fat quarter of cotton fabric
O 20” 12mm-wide Nylon Boning
O 2 buttons
O Polyfill stuffing O rice or similar to add weight
to your pincushion
Cut four 3” squares for the top of yourpincushion. Using a ¼ ” seam allowance sewthese together first into pairs, then join thetwo pairs. It can help if you nest your seam
allowances by pressing them in oppositedirections, press your final central seam open.Don't worry too much if you are not able tomatch the seams in the centre as we will be
covering this with a button later on. (See Pic A.)
Cut a piece 5½ ” square for the bottomof your pincushion. Place this RS facingtogether with the completed front section
and sew around all four sides, leaving a 2”turning gap in one edge. (See Pic B.)
Turn the right way out and using a pointturner, poke the corners out gently. Press well,
tucking the raw edges of the turning gap in asyou do. Now, stuff! I like to use some polyfillin the corners and then fill the centre of thecavity with rice so the pincushion has someweight to it. Sew the opening closed by hand
then sew your buttons through the centre ofthe pincushion, one on top and one below.Pull your threads tight to create some shapein the pincushion. Set aside, now onto thethread catcher basket. (See Pic C.)
Cut a 6” square for the hanging tab, fold
in half with WS together and press, open out
and fold the outer edges into the centreand press again. Turn the top edge in by¼ ” and press. Finally fold in half againand press and you should have three sideswith the raw edges nicely pressed in.
Top-stitch these three raw edges and then
sew a buttonhole near the top edge largeenough to accommodate the button on thebottom of your pincushion. (See Pic D.)
Cut two rectangles from main print
8½ x5½ ” for the basket. Place right sidestogether and using a ¼ ” seam allowance sewaround the two short sides and long bottomedge. Repeat with lining fabric. (See Pic E.)
From the bottom corners cut 1½ ” squaresthen open out and place the side seam in linewith the bottom seam, and sew across thenewly cut edge using a ¼ ” seam allowance.
Repeat for the lining. (See Pic F.)
A
B
C
Top tip Use a short stitch
length when sewing thepincushion together to keepthe filling securely inside &be sure to reverse stitch at
the beginning and endof each seam.
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PINCUSHION & THREAD CATCHER
Turn the lining the right way out and placeinside the outer with the right sides facing.
Align the top raw edge and pin. Sew aroundtop edge using a ¼ ” seam allowance, leavinga 3” gap in the centre back edge of the basket.Turn the basket the right way out and press,
folding in the un-sewn edges of the openingas you do so. (See Pic G.)
Top-stitch around the basket ¾ ” fromthe top edge, all the way around, to createa channel for the boning. Mark the centre
of the back top edge, where the opening is,insert the boning into the opening and feedall the way around the channel. e boningshould overlap slightly. (See Pic H.)
Insert the hanging tab into the openingwith the raw edge inside the opening,positioning it over the centre mark in the
back of the basket. Carefully top-stitcharound ⅛ ” from the top edge to close theopening and secure the hanging tab, take
your time and make sure the boning ispushed to the bottom of the channel andkept out of the way. Because the boning givesshape to the basket, keeping it open, it canmake this top-stitching a little tricky. You
will find the top-stitching a lot easier if youput the basket around the free arm on yoursewing machine. (See Pic I.)
Attach the thread catcher basket to
your pincushion by buttoning the hangingtab onto the button on the base of thepincushion. (See Pic J.)
We used...A selection ofprints from theMoonshine collectionby Tula Pink fromStitch Cra Create,www.stitchcra
create.co.uk
D
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E F
H
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We think this gorgeous gadget sleeve is so stylish it
could be a great little clutch bag inits own right. Use a bold, graphic
print for maximum effect
Project: ALI BURDON, Very Berry Handmade
Tablet clutch
V i e w o r e o f A l i ’ s a k e s a t w w w .v er y ber r y hand mad e.c o.uk
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TABLET CLUTCH
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O 21x40cm of main fabric
O 21cm square of co-ordinating fabric
for side panels
O 21cm by 34cm coordinating solid for trim
and lining
O 0.25m of medium weight fusible fleece
O 0.25me of medium-weight iron-on
interfacing
O 5cm of 2cm-wide Velcro
Note: The seam allowance is 1cm, unless
otherwise indicated
CUTTING LIST:
From main fabric cut:
one 12x21cm piece for centre panel
one 21x28cm piece for back of purse
one piece measuring 16x22cm for the front flapFrom the co-ordinate cut:
two 10x21cm pieces for the front side panels
From the trim and lining fabric cut:
two pieces measuring 3x21cm for the trim
two pieces measuring 21x28cm for the lining
one 16x22cm for the flap lining
From fusible fleece cut:
two 21x28cm pieces
one 21x28cm piece
From the iron-on interfacing:
two 21x28cm pieces
one 21x28cm piece
From 2cm hook and loop:
one 5cm piece
MAKE THE FRONT OF THE CLUTCH
Take one of the 3x21cm pieces oftrim fabric and fold in half lengthways.
(See Pic A.)
Pin the folded trim to the 12x21cmcentral-panel piece, raw edges aligned withthe le-hand edge. (See Pic B.)
Place one of the side panel pieces RSTwith the central panel, sandwiching the trimbetween the two pieces. (See Pic C.)
Pin then stitch in place, then press the
seam allowance towards the side panel.(See pics D and E.)
Repeat this process with the other trimand side panel, on the other side of the
central section. (See Pic F.)
Ali says:
“I made thisiPad sleeve
using beautiful
Folk Modern fabrics by Ellen
Luckett Baker for Kokka. Tabletscome in a huge variety of sizesand any cover or case needs to
be a snug fit, so it is impossible towrite a one-size-fits-all pattern.
e measurements used here willcreate a clutch which is suitable
for the latest iPad (the iPad Air),but not for the iPad mini or olderversions of the iPad. At the end of
the pattern I will describe how youcan adjust the measurements for
other size tablets”
Fuse one of the 21x28cm pieces of fusiblefleece to the completed clutch front.
Top-stitch both sides of the centre panel,
close to the two seam lines. (See Pic G.)
Measure 10cm down from the middle ofthe top, long edge of the completed clutchfront. Mark this point and position theupper-long edge of the hook and loop tape
on this mark. Use a dab of washable glue orpin the tape, whilst you stitch it into position.(See Pic H.)
COMPLETE THE CLUTCH OUTER
Apply the other piece of fusible fleece
to the back section of the clutch outer.
Put the two outer sections RST and stitcharound three sides, with a generous seam
allowance (ie more like 11mm than 10mm),
A
C
B
D
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TABLET CLUTCH
leaving the top edge open, of course! Trimthe seam to about 5mm, cut across the
corners and trim out some of the bulk ofthe fusible fleece from the seam allowance.(See Pic I.)
Turn RS out and press thoroughly, then setaside whilst you move on to the next section.
MAKE THE FLAP SECTION
Fuse the smaller piece of fusible fleece tothe outer flap fabric, and apply the iron-oninterfacing to the lining section of the flap.
Trim the curved corners of the pouch flapouter and lining piece, using the curved edgeof a mug or glass (or something similar!) with8-10cm diameter. (See Pic J.)
Take the lining section of the pouch
flap and measure 2cm up from the middleof the bottom curved edge. (See Pic K.)
Mark this point and position the lower,long edge of one section of the hook and
loop tape on this mark. Use washable glueor pin to secure, whilst you stitch the tapeinto position. (See Pic L.)
Put the flap front and lining sections RST,
and stitch around, leaving the long straightedge open. (See Pic M.)
Trim the completed seam to about 5mm,trim out some of the bulk of fusible fleece in theseam allowance, and cut notches in the curved
corners to help them lie flat. (See Pic N.)
Turn the flap RS out and press the seam tocreate a nice sharp edge. Top-stitch aroundthe seam line. (See Pic O.)
MAKE THE LINING SECTION
Apply the iron-on interfacing to thetwo lining pieces.
Put the two lining sections RST and stitch
around three sides, this time with a scantseam allowance of 9mm rather than 10mm.Leave a turning gap of 10cm in one of theshort sides – making sure that you reverse
stitch at either end of this gap. (See Pic P.)
21 Trim the seam to about 5mm, and cutacross the corners to reduce bulk. (See Pic Q.)
PUTTING THE CLUTCH TOGETHER
22 Take the clutch outer and mark the centre
of the back section with a fabric marker.Make another mark at the centre of the
unstitched edge of the flap section. Pin theflap to back of the pouch, matching thesetwo marks. (See Pic R.)
23 Baste in place and remove the pins.
Place the outer section, with attached flapinside the lining section with RST. Alignthe side seams, making sure that the flapstays nicely in place, and pin all around thetop edge. Stitch.
24 Turn RS out using the turning hole thatyou le in the lining. Check everything is ok,the flap is nicely aligned and then turn back
through and trim the upper seam to 5mm,
trimming the fusible fleece out of the seamallowance, as before. Turn RS out again
and press very thoroughly.
25 Top-stitch around the top edge of thepouch. (See Pic S.) Stitch the turning holeclosed (use a slip stitch/ladder stitch) andpress again to finish.
We used...Ellen Luckett BakerFolk Modern CitrusTrees in Charcoal andRings in Charcoalwww.thelongthread.com
E
I
F
J
G
K
H
L
Top tip Mark the curved seam
line on the flap to makestitching really easy
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TABLETCLUTCH
Adjusting the measurements:
For other tablets, measure the height, width
and depth of the gadget, and make a note of thedimensions – for the height and width, aroundup to the nearest half centimetre. If the tablet is8mm or less in depth add 4cm to the height andwidth to get the measurements for completed
front and back outer pieces and lining pieces. If
the tablet is more than 8mm in depth, add 5cm.
To find the width of the flap section, subtract6cm from longest measurement calculated
above. To find the height of the flap section,subtract 5cm from the shorter measurement.
To calculate the position of the hook and looptape stitched in Step 1 of the pattern, take theheight of envelope flap measurement and
subtract 6cm. Measure this distance from thetop of the outer section and position the topedge of the tape at this point. e placement
of the hook and loop tape on the flap sectionis no different from the pattern.
EXAMPLE MEASUREMENTS FOR A
TABLET MEASURING 14CM WIDE,
20CM HIGH AND 8MM DEEP:
Outer and lining pieces: 18x24cm (adding 4cmto each measurement)
Flap pieces: 13cm (18cm-5cm) by 18cm(24cm-6cm)
Position of hook and loop on the front of
the outer: 7cm from the top edge of the front
section (13cm-6cm)
M
Q
N
R
O
S
P
T
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2-IN-1 REVERSIBLE TOTE
is is an easy-to-make bag has just three different pattern pieces.Used one way it’s a plain, simple tote, turned inside out you have a
whole new bright bag with a completely different feel
Project & photography: Handmade in Hammersmith
2-in-1
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2-IN-1 REVERSIBLE TOTE
Skill level: OO
MATERIALS:
O one piece of neutral, plain fabric
O one piece of contrasting bright, patterned
fabric (flowers or stripes, bold patterns and
colours, strong vibrant prints)
O co-ordinating threads
CUTTING LIST:
Wash the fabrics in the machine on a cotton
setting so any shrinkage or colour run happensnow, and you get rid of any furnishing fabric
finishes (if that’s what you are using). It also
means you can machine-wash your new
bag with confidence in future!
For the shells cut:
O one 44x76cm piece of both the plain
and patterned fabrics
For the handles cut:
O two 8x52cm pieces of both the plain
and patterned fabrics
For the pockets cut:
O two 15cm-square pieces of both the
plain and patterned fabrics
SHELL
Fold each shell fabric short edge to short
edge, RS inside, and stitch up the long sides leand right. If you’re using a fabric that you thinkmay fray, zigzag stitch each seam too. Use yourforward/reverse sewing machine button to addan extra layer of stitching in the bottom corners
for strength. (See pics A and B.)
Trim corners and turn, then fold and pressthe top edges 2cm inwards so you have a neattop opening. (See pics C – E.)
HANDLES
Fold plain and patterned handles lengthwise inwards to centre, press. Stitchone plain on to one patterned (folds inwards)close to each long edge. (See pics F – I.)
POCKETS
Fold and stitch pockets (one plain and onepatterned side for each pocket) all the way round,RST, leaving a 2cm gap to pull through. Trim
corners, turn and press. Stitch each pocket to the
A
D
G
B C
E F
H I
About Handmade in Hammersmith Beautiful, practical
bags and pouches
(and other things)
handmade from
recycled vintage
wool, cotton, and linens. Everything is
a one-off and used to be something else – a
kilt or tweed jacket or similar. Each comes
with its individual story; photographs of whatit used to be and where it came from. The
bags are made with bright linings, handy
inside pockets, and are machine washable.
The new collection for spring and summer
2015 includes travel pouches, retro
washbags, embroidered iPad sleeves,
reversible beach bags, and so patchwork
picnic blankets.
www.folksy.com/shops/madeinw6
www.etsy.com/shop/madeinw6
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2-IN-1 REVERSIBLE TOTE
J
M
P
K L
N O
Q
S
R
Top tip You can put the plain handlesand pockets on the patterned
side and vice versa, or keepit all matching up. Place and
see which works bestbefore stitching
outside of your plain and patterned fabric shells,
centred and 5-6 cm from the top. (See pics J – O.)
STICHING TOGETHER
Drop the patterned shell into the plainshell, line up the side seams and pin one to
the other, making sure they line up on the topedge. You may have to take in a seam a littleat the top, to get an exact fit. (See Pic P.)
Pin in the handles sandwiched betweenthe shells with the outer handle edges
approximately 9cm from the shell sides.(See Pic Q.)
Stitch twice around the top, 1cm and then
0.5cm from the top. (See pics R and S.)
Fabrics you could try: O Lightweight canvas and cotton drill
O Furnishing fabric remnants in cottons and linens; wash before you start, as many
of these have glazes and finishes
O Charity shops are a good source of flowery cotton duvet covers, vintage linen
tablecloths, plain curtains, and linen skirts
O Denim and corduroy
O Try a plain fabric with a strong retro contrasting one; those sixties and seventies
curtains with big floral designs are great for this.
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SEWING MACHINE TIDY MAT
is stash-all sewing mat means you can keep your tools andnotions at your fingertips while you work
Project and photography: BARBARA RUIS, RockingStitch
tidy mat Sewing Machine
F i n d RockingStitch
on F acebook, Instag r am, Pinter est
and T witter .
St o r a g e
So l ut i o n s
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SEWING MACHINE TIDY MAT
Skill level: : O
MATERIALS:
O 2 fat quarters in contrasting colours
O 42cm length of ribbon
O co-ordinating thread
O iron & ironing board
Note: Seam allowances are 1cm unless
otherwise stated
Cut out two pieces of contrasting fabricmeasuring 42x32cm and cut all the cornersinto curves. (See Pic A.)
Cut one strip of fabric for the pockets,measuring 42x9cm. Cut only the twobottom corners into curves. Hem the top ofthis piece by folding it in by 1cm to the WS,press and machine stitch. Add a pretty trim
or ribbon for decoration. (See Pic A.)
Place your pocket piece along thebottom edge of your front fabric, with both
pieces RS up and pin in place. Stitch all
C
F
A
D
B
E
round on 0.8cm, leaving the top of the pocketpiece unstitched. (See Pic B.)
Choose the positon of the pockets anddraw vertical lines on your pocket pieceusing chalk. Pin the two layers together andmachine stitch along the lines to create thepockets. Make sure not to stitch past your
pocket piece.
With the RST, place your back piece ontop of your front piece – your pockets arenow in between the two layers. Pin in place
and stitch almost all the way around, leavinga gap of 6cm unstitched. Cut notches into thecurved corners (See Pic C.) and carefully turneverything inside out.
Close the gap using a slip stitch. Give
everything a good press so that all theseams are flat and the corners nicely shaped.Top-stitch all the way round to give it aprofessional finish.
Cut three pieces of contrasting fabricmeasuring 7cm square and one piece of17x7cm for the back of your pincushion. Jointhe three squares together by pinning rightsides together and stitch. You have created the
front of the pincushion that now measures17x7cm. (See Pic D.)
Press the seam allowances open. Place
the two pieces RST and pin in place. Stitchall the way round, leaving a 5cm gap. Cut thecorners and turn your pincushion inside out.(See Pic E.)
Carefully fill your pincushion with toystuffi ng or wadding til l it’s got a firm shape.
Slip-stitch the gap closed. (See Pic F.)
Gather your favourite bits and bobs andfill the pockets. Place the mat on the tablewith the pockets in front of you and place
your sewing machine on top. You’re ready
for another sewing project!
About the RockingStitchSewing Studio: The RockingStitch Sewing Studio in Aberdeen
is a place where you can learn how to sew, get
inspired, meet like-minded people, stitch along
or have a sewing party!
With private sewing lessons and over 20 different
sewing classes to choose from, the Sewing
Studio is the place to be if you want to learn
a new sewing skill. From absolute beginnersto those of you who want to learn the more
advanced techniques there is something for
everyone. Check out www.rockingstitch.com
to see what’s coming up!
RockingStitch is the brainchild of Dutch fabric
obsessed designer-maker Barbara Ruis.
Barbara’s aim is to spread the love for sewing
and inspire other people to start stitching!
Having worked in the theatre business in the
Netherlands for almost ten years creating
fabulous costumes for West End musicals,
Barbara is now spending most of her time
passing on the skill of sewing to others.
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Use a fat quarter bundle to make this modern hobo-style handbag. euse of pieced panels allows you to show off co-ordinating prints at their
best. A twist/turn lock closure is used to add a professional finishProject: SUSAN DUNLOP, SusieDDesigns
Top tip This bag is made from pieced
fabrics but you can also make itfrom just one outer fabric and one
lining fabric if you prefer. Simplyuse the pattern pieces to cut main
body outer and lining piecesdirectly from your chosen
fabric and interfacing
Hobo
ha dbag
T E M P L A T E S
F R E EU s e yo ur
We used...SEPTEMBER BLUE
fabric by Dashwood Studios
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HOBO HANDBAG
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O free template sheet
O 5 co-ordinating fat quarters
O 1m medium-weight woven fusible
interfacing
O medium-weight sew-in interfacing scraps
O 31mm round twist/turn lock
O scraps of fusible fleece for lock
reinforcement
CUTTING LIST:
From fabric 1, cut:
two 21cm squares for the lower main body
one piece using the tab template
From fabric 2, cut:
two 21cm squares for the lower main body
From fabric 3, cut:
two 14x40cm pieces for the upper main body
two 10x50cm for the shoulder strap
From fabric 4, cut:
two 21x33cm pieces for the main body lining
From fabric 5, cut:
two 21x33cm pieces for the main body lining
one piece using the tab template
Adhere the fusible interfacing pieces tothe WS of the corresponding fabric pieces,positioning the shoulder strap piecescentrally widthways.
Place two lower main body pieces RST (oneeach from fabric 1 and 2). Stitch one side to
join. Repeat to sew the remaining lower main
body pieces together. Press the seams open.
D
G
BA
E
H
C
F
I
From the fusible interfacing, cut:
four 21cm squares for the lower main body
two 14x40cm pieces for the upper main body
four 21x33cm pieces for the main body lining
two pieces using tab template
two 5x50cm pieces for the shoulder strap
From the sew-in interfacing, cut:
one piece using tab template
Note: Seam allowance is 1cm throughout,
unless stated otherwise
Approximate finished size: 26x34cm
With RST, pin and sew the bottom edgeof the upper main body to the top edge of a
pieced lower main body. Repeat to join theremaining upper and lower pieces. Press theseams toward the uppers and top-stitch 5mmfrom the seams. (See Pic A.)
Fold one pieced outer in half, with the
vertical seam at the fold and the horizontalseam aligned, pin. Use the main body pattern
piece to cut the pieced main body outer,matching the dashed line of the pattern piecewith the horizontal main body seam. Repeat
to cut the other main body outer. (See Pic B.)
Place two main body lining pieces RST(one each from fabric 4 and 5). Stitch one longside to join. Repeat to sew the remaining lining
pieces together. Press the seams open. Fold onepieced lining in half, with the seam at the fold.Use the main body pattern piece to cut. Repeatto cut the other lining piece. (See Pic C.)
Cut two 4cm squares/circles, from the scraps
of fusible fleece. Adhere them to the WS of one
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HOBOHANDBAG
M
P
KJ
N
L
O
main body outer and one flap piece, referringto the positions marked on the pattern pieces.is will reinforce the lock placements.
Install the turning part of the lock: usingthe lock prongs as a guide, mark and cuttwo small slits through all the layers of thereinforced main body, so that the slits sitcentrally within the reinforced circle. Push the
lock prongs through from RS to WS, fit thewasher over the prongs and hold down firmly
whilst folding back the prongs. (See Pic D.)
Transfer the dart markings to main body
outer and lining pieces, from the pattern.Stitch all the darts. Press the dart seamsaway from each other on one outer piece andtoward each other on the other outer piece.Press the lining darts in the same manner.
(See Pic E.)
Place the outer main body piecesRST, matching up the dart seams and thehorizontal seams. Stitch down one side,around the curved bottom edge and up the
other side. Snip notches into the curves,
avoiding the stitching. Press the seam openand turn RS out. Repeat to sew the liningpieces together but this time leave a turninggap at the centre of the bottom seam andleave WS out. (See pics F and G.)
Make the tab: place the tab pieces RST,with the sew-in interfacing layered on thebottom, pin. Stitch around the sides andbottom edge, leaving the top straight edge
open. Notch the curves and trim the seamallowance back to 5mm. Turn through to RS,easing all the edges out neatly, and press.Top-stitch with a 5mm seam and baste theopen edge with a 5mm seam. (See Pic H.)
Install the lock plates: using the front plateas a guide (and referring to the pattern forposition) draw through the lock to mark therectangular shape onto the RS of the tab. Cutout the rectangle, going through all the layers.
It’s helpful to make the first cut with a seamripper and then continue with a sharp set of
scissors. Place the front and back lock plateseither side of the tab and check if you cansee any fabric still within the cut-out shape.
Carefully trim back a bit more if required, aswell as snipping little notches where the screwsare positioned. Once you’re happy with the fit,screw the plates together. (See Pic I.)
With RST, match the raw edge of thetab to the top back edge of the outer bag,positioning centrally widthways. Pin andbaste 5mm from the raw edges. (See Pic J.)
Make the shoulder strap: place the two
pieces RST and stitch at one short edge to
join the lengths. Press seam open. Fold thestrap in half lengthways, WST, press. Openout so WS facing up and fold over the longedges to WS, to meet at centre crease, press.Fold in half lengthways again, to bring
the folded edges together. Press and pin.Topstitch both long edges with a 3mmseam. (See pics K and L.)
With RST, place one of the handle ends at
the top side edge of the outer bag, matchingthe raw edges and positioning it centrallyacross the side seam, pin. Baste 5mm fromthe edge. Baste the other end of the handle atthe other side seam of the bag. (See Pic M.)
Insert the outer bag into the lining,with RST, matching up the top edges andside seams, pin. Ensure the tab and handleremain tucked down inside the layers. Stitchall around the top edges. Snip into the curves
and trim across the top corners at eachside of the bag, avoiding the stitching.
(See Pic N.)
Pull the outer bag through the gap in thelining, to bring both RS out. Pull on the handle
ends to release. Lightly press both sectionsif required. Fold in the lining gap edges, tomatch the rest of the seam, press and pin.Slip-stitch by hand or machine stitch, staying
very close to the edges. (See Pic O.)
Push the lining down inside the outer bagand press the top edges so that the seam sitsneatly at the top edges. Top-stitch all aroundthe top edges of the bag with a 5mm seam.
(See Pic P.)
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Better bag making tipsI
f you’ve never made a bag before, you
might be wandering what all the fuss
is about. But once you’ve made that
first bag, I promise you’ll be addicted!
e great thing about bags is, once you’ve
mastered a few basic techniques, they’re
not too diffi cult to make. e design
possibilities are endless; you can make
them whatever size you need, customise
them and embellish them to your own
taste. You can make a truly unique endproduct to be proud of. Here are some
tips, which I hope will make your
bag-making experiences fun
and enjoyable.
GET THE RIGHT TOOLS
Apart from basic sewing tools and
notions, you don’t need many tools
specifically for making bags. Good-quality
dressmaking shears are essential and, if
you can, tr y to buy a rotary cutter, mat and
acrylic ruler set. I find them indispensable
for cutting accurate straight-cut pieces.
A point turner is useful for easing outcorners and defining seams. Good-quality
cotton or polyester sewing threads will
give you strong seams and nice top
stitching.
PRESSING ISSUES
Never skimp on the ironing when it comes
to bag making! Always give your fabrics a
good steam press before you cut out any
pieces. During construction, make sure
you press as you go to get neat folds, darts,
pleats and seams.
STABILISERS
I can’t stress enough the importance of
using good quality interfacing, interlining
and fleeces to make your bags strong and
structured. I offer a great range of Vilene®
products through my online shop which
are easy to use and perfect for creating
fabulous handmade bags.
FABRICS
Use good-quality fabrics for your
creations. I use quilt-weight/medium-
weight cottons for most of my projects.
I like to choose vibrant, modern designs
by the likes of Moda, Michael Miller,Dashwood Studio, Riley Blake Designs,
Art Gallery Fabrics and Robert Kaufman.
Look out for fat-quarter bundles which
are a great way of buying designer fabrics
cost effectively. You get a good range of
matching prints/solids, taking the guess
work out of deciding what goes with what.
SEAMS AND LINING
Take your time to make sure you sew
accurate seam allowances. Finish off any
raw seams, which will be seen, with zigzag
or overlocking stitches. I prefer to line allmy bags, meaning you won’t see the seams,
the bag is stronger and the finish is more
professional.
S u s i e ’ s
By SUSAN DUNLOP, SusieDDesigns
Susan Dunlop is the author
of Style and Swing, 12
Structured Handbags for
Beginners and Beyond .
Pre-order now for delivery in
May 2015 with free P&P at
www.susieddesigns.co.uk
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Celebrate the start ofspring with a colourfulbird cushion embellishedwith Liberty floral scraps
Project: DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER
cushion
Betsy Bird
T E M P L A
T E S F R E E
U s e yo ur
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BETSY BIRD CUSHION
Cut two bodies from the white-on-white fabric and two wings and two beak
pieces from the Liberty Lawn fabric. Laythe wadding down and place the two beakpieces onto it. Don’t cut the beak shape outof the wadding at this point. Machine-sewaround the beak, leaving the base (the flatedge) open. Trim the wadding back around
the beak and clip the curve of the point of thebeak. Turn the right way out and spend sometime getting the edges perfect.
Use red Perle cotton, make a runningstitch around the beak, 0.5cm in from
the edge. is creates a neat edge. Do notworry about the raw flat edge, as this will be
hidden in the seam. You should now have acompleted beak. (See Pic A.)
Turn the edge of the wing over by 0.25cmand finger-press. You can use a little fabricglue if you like, or simply dampen the fabricwith a water mister and it will stay put as youwork. Pin the turned wing in place onto the
white panel. Using very fine stitches, attachthe wing to the body. Repeat for the otherside of the cushion. (See Pic B.)
For the embroidery, use a chain stitch and
red cotton about 1cm in from the edge of theappliquéd wing. Come back and, going overthe edge of the wing, half on and half off, stitchwith a herringbone stitch all the way around.Repeat for the other wing.
e eye position is marked on thetemplate. Transfer this to the fabric and makea running stitch using red cotton around theoutside. Add the button in the middle.
Lightly iron the bird body and attachthe beak to the position as marked on thetemplate. Attach the label. (See Pic C.)
With the RST, sew all the way around the
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O free template sheet
O 50cm-strip white-on-white fabric
O fat eighth Liberty Lawn in Betsy
O red Perle 8 cotton
O small piece thin wadding
O 2 green flower buttons
O polyester cushion filling
O water-soluble marker
bird body, leaving a gap for turning out
and stuffi ng. Clip and notch the curves asappropriate and then turn out. (See Pic D.)
Stuff the bird with polyester filling andslip-stitch the opening closed. Do not over
stuff this piece.
Attach the eyes into the middle of thered running stitch circles, drawing them in
slightly to give the face a contour.
A B
C D
We used...
Liberty Lawn in Betsy,£3.50 per fat eighth,www.duckeggthreads.co.uk
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A guide to basic markings and symbols
How to...
Read a dressmakingpattern
GRAINLINEe pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it canhang, move and stretch correctly. egrainline must always be parallel to the
selvage of the fabric.
CUTTING LINEese lines follow the size of the garment.ere can be up to 10 sizes on a patternsheet, so aer you have selected yours,follow that specific line all the way around
the pattern piece. Cut just outside the line.
PLACE ON FOLD LINEis edge of the pattern piece is tobe placed on the fold of your fabric,making it easy to cut out a mirrorimage at the same time.
DARTSParts of the fabric to be folded for shaping,usually located at the bust, waist and neck.
NOTCHESese triangles are to be cut either outsideof the pattern piece or into the seamallowance. If your seam allowance is thestandard 1.5cm, you have enough room to
cut into the pattern. If it is smaller, carefullycut outside the shape.
LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINEis indicates exactly where to shorten orlengthen the pattern piece or garment.
CIRCLE DOTSese marks indicate construction details,such as pleating or the end-of-stitching lineas set out in the instructions. Some pattern
companies will use triangles or squares inplace of circle dots.
STITCHING/SEAM LINEe line on which you sew. is is foundmore commonly on vintage patterns.
ZIP PLACEMENTIndicates where the zipper shouldbe inserted into the garment.
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PATTERNMARKINGS
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE
PLACEMENT
e placement for a button is markedwith an ‘X’. e placement for abuttonhole is marked with an edged line.
TUCKS
Transfer any tuck lines marked on thepattern pieces to the RS of the garmentto indicate where the tucks should besewn into place.
HEM
is line shows where to sew the hemon the pattern’s hem allowance.
SEAM ALLOWANCE
Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. is is the
distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric– essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. Youmust sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to lineup correctly. Seam allowances are most commonly 1.5cm, buteven if a project is to be sewn at a set seam allowance, some
seams might be changed to have smaller allowances. Sewingmachines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side ofthe presser foot. Many have the number marked only in metricunits while other machines have metric and imperial markings.
LAYOUT DIAGRAMS
ese explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure
that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested onthe envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct viewand size. If you are working with a directional fabric, thereshould be instructions on how to arrange the fabric accordingly.
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COUTURE SEWING WITH ALISON SMITH
M
any patterns today come
without linings. If you are
making a skirt, a lining canmake wearing the skirt more
comfortable as it will not cling and it will helpto stop creases. You could just cut the skirt
again in lining, and attach the skirt and liningtogether at the waist, RS to RS and then turn,and under-stitch. However, a skirt with alining and a facing, will sit better on the body,and will not stretch at the waist aer many
wears. I will now show you how to cut thepattern pieces for a facing and a lining.
Make copies of the front and back patternpieces onto tracing paper. Copy off all the
pattern markings and the darts. (See Pic A.)
Measure down 7cm from the waist edge anddraw a line – this line will follow the shape of
the waist edge so it may be curved. (See Pic B.)
Draw a notch (a balance mark) on this line,a single notch on the front pattern piecesand a double notch on the back patternpieces. Place these notches between thedart and the side seam. A single line or a
double line is used to mark the notch inpattern drafting, if you prefer you coulddraw a triangle as used on a commercialpattern. (See Pic C.)
Cut along the line you have drawn 7cm belowthe waist, label the smaller section facing and
the other section lining. (See Pic D.)
How to make a facing
and lining pattern
Alison Smith MBE
Couture sewing with
Facings and linings are essential if you want your garmentto fit and sit well, and be comfortable to wear
A
B
C
D
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E F
G H Alison Smith:Sew Wardrobe
Launching this month, Alison Smithis releasing the first of her independentdressmaking patterns.
SEW WARDROBE – sew simple,
sew stylish, so you. ese patterns aredesigned by Alison and are aimed atdressmakers who are looking to createa wardrobe of simple, stylish garments.
In addition to the patterns Alison isalso offering fabric kits to make thedesigns. Each kit includes everythingyou need to make the outfit, down tothe last hook and eye! Patterns and kits
available online at www.sewwardrobe.
co.uk, email [email protected] don’t worry about someone elsehaving the same pattern and fabric –each kit is limited to a maximum of five.
We now have to get rid of the darts! On thefacing section, fold the paper along one of thelines of the dart and place it on the other lineof the dart. Secure with tape. (See Pic E.)
e facing is now curved and dart free, but
the curve may be more angled than curved,so now it needs tracing off again onto paper,smoothing off the points, and most importanta seam allowance needs adding at the lower
edge. (See Pic F.) e facing is now ready tobe cut from fabric and interfaced.
THE SKIRT LINING
this may or may not have the ends of thedarts in it. If no dart points are in the liningthen all that is required is a seam allowance at
the upper edge before it can be cut in fabric.If you have the pointed ends of the darts stillon the pattern these need removing, but they
will not fold out, so they need moving into
the side seam. To do this measure with widthof each dart, on my sample this came to0.5mm plus 0.3mm a total of 0.8mm. Starting
at the side seam measure in by 0.8mm. Jointhis point quite quickly into the side seam,with a curved line photo 7. Trim off the
excess paper and retrace the lining patternonto paper adding a seam allowance at the
upper edge. (See Pic G.)
You now have a professional-looking skirtlining with an attached facing! is techniquewill give any skirt a lining to be proud of.
You can use the principal I have justexplained to cut facings and linings for otherunlined garments too.
Until next time, Happy Sewing...
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Each machine model offers a range of features and functions,but all have these fundamental elements in common. Use this handy
guide and you'll know your way around yours in no time
THREAD GUIDES
Two threads make up each stitch. e top thread from the spool ofcotton and passes through these guides to regulate the tension of thethread before feeding it through the needle. e second thread comesfrom the bobbin.
SPEED CONTROLLER
A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when thepedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.
REVERSE FUNCTION
Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to movebackwards across a stitched line. is function is used when securingthe threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.
NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP
e needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety oftypes and sizes to suit your project. e needle is held in place by theclamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening theclamp to access the needle.
PRESSER FOOT
Holds the fabric in place as you work. Can be removedand replaced with the type required for a specific sewingtask, ie zips.
BOBBIN CASE
Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, whichhouses the bobbin. e bobbin is wound with thread andprovides the second thread for each stitch.
FEED DOGS
ese moving parts lie underneath the needle plate.With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, thesehelp to move the fabric through the machine.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7 8
17
16
17
Top tip Lost your sewing machine
manual? Do an online search
with your make/model
and you'll probably find adownloadable version
Top tip If you're struggling
with the threading on a new
machine, practise with red
thread until you get the
hang of it
NEEDLE PLATE
e metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. e small opening allows thethread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the
plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measuring seam allowances.
Master
your machine
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
TENSION CONTROL
is dial regulates the tension of the stitches
by determining the speed at which the threadpasses through the machine. Messy stitches, orloops of thread or knots on the right or wrongside of the fabric are a common sign that thetension needs to be reset.
BOBBIN WINDER
Winds thread from the cotton spoolonto the bobbin, ensuring that the threadis fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains
the correct tension.
SPOOL HOLDER
is pin runs through the centre of a spoolof thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through
the machine.
SCREEN
Displays the relevant informationregarding the stitch style, width and length
that has been selected.
HAND WHEEL
Manually operates the mechanics of themachine, moving the needle up and down
and engaging the feed dogs.
STITCH SELECTOR
Allows you to select from the differentstitches on the machine and includes a menu
from which you make your selection. e stitchis selected by moving the wheel to the correctsymbol.
STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH
WIDTH SELECTORS
Use to increase or decrease the length orwidth of your stitch. e shorter the stitch,the more stitches are worked across the line
of sewing, making it stronger. e width onlyapplies to stitches where the needle moves to the
le and right, ie zigzag. For decorative stitches,the bigger the width the better.
FREE ARM
Can be removed to recreate a narrower
working space, which is used when sewingsmaller items or inserting sleeves.
ACCESSORY DRAWER
Use to store alternative presser feet, spare
bobbins and maintenance tools.
10
15
11
12
13
14
Top tip Use the little brush in your
machine's care kit to give it
a quick clean every time you
refill the bobbin. It helps
keep dust and fuzz fromgathering
TROUBLE WITH YOUR TENSION?
O Check that both the machine and bobbin arecorrectly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, thiscan cause incorrect tension. Also check that the threadon the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or tooloose, it won't feed through the machine and makeeven stitches. Another good tip is to use the samethread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightlydifferent threads can unbalance the tension
Top tip Don't use polish to clean
your machine – thechemicals and moisture
may damage it. Remove
any dust with a
lint-free cloth
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Oh Sew Sweet Shop
6- 7 Fountain Parade
Mapplewell, Barnsley
S75 6FW, 01226 386863
www.ohsewsweetshop.co.uk
Reasons to be cheerful?
* Wide range of fabrics from major manufacturers.
* Excellent range of accessories, waddings & haberdashery.
* Spacious workshop space for our very popular classes.
* Large FREE car park & close to other shops & Tea rooms.
*10 minutes from Jct 38 M1, Call in or see us online!
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R un by husband and wife team,
Simon and Dorte, this online
retailer specialises in quality,
modern dressmaking fabrics.
Can you tell us a bit about how Dragonfly
Fabrics was set up?
e business was set up by myself (Dorte)and my husband Simon, my husband, tosupply quality modern dress fabrics. WhenI started teaching sewing classes in my
workshop five years ago, I thought it would
be a good idea to have fabrics at hand forpeople to start sewing straight away in theirfirst lesson so we started stocking somefabrics from Germany, which everyone
loved. We expanded our range and set up asan online shop specialising in dressmakingfabrics. We’ve now been trading for fouryears.
What were you doing before you set
up the business?
I studied fashion design and pattern makingin Germany and then went to London to workfor Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan,
Markus Lupfer and Clements Ribeiro.
What key brands do you stock?
Robert Kaufmann cotton chambrays and linenblends, Amy Butler and Anna Maria Horner
rayons, Westfalenstoffe printed cottons andlinen, as well as a large range of Italian boiledwool knit, great selection of dress cotton lawnfabric as well as pretty poplins, viscose jerseys,bamboo and also rayons.
What’s selling well right now?
Our most popular fabric at the moment isprobably our boiled wool, Stuart Hillard usedit during the first Great British Sewing Beefor his grey jacket, which was fun, and sincethen we have really expanded our boiled
wool range. Striped jersey, bamboo jersey aswell as printed cotton voiles are increasingly
popular and with spring approaching our
Dragonfly Fabrics
bio/eco linens are starting to sell well. estretch cotton jacquards and stretch crêpefabrics are also very popular as they canbe used all year round.
Do you have any new or upcoming
collections/products you’re particularly
excited about?
We will be getting more rayons in soon from
Joel Dewberry and will be extending ourpopular striped cotton jerseys in different
weights. As well as this we are looking tostock faux leather/leathertex which is veryfashionable with the designers at the momentand perhaps related to Fiy Shades of Grey …!We will also be getting in a lovely range of
stretchy cotton fabric which are great forcomfortable summer dresses, tops and blouses.
Do you have special promotions we
can look out for?
At the moment we have 15% off for LoveSewing readers with the code ‘LOVE16’
(expires April 30th) as well as a good range ofspecial offers, which the code can be used foras well to get some really special deals.
What kind of service do you offer for
online shoppers?
We set up our website in order to offer asite easy to navigate and also we place great
importance of having good photography anda swatch service with large size swatches.We aim to send all orders out within 1-2 daysand offer free returns. Postage is between£1.50-£3 depending on the value of order.
I am also really happy to answer anydressmaking questions people may have oradvice on projects/patterns or suitable fabric.
Do you sew or cra yourself? If so, what’s on
your sewing table at the minute?
e Colette Dahlia dress is one of projects Iwould like to finish before the weather warmsup as I have used our lovely navy VenetianWool Twill for the dress. I also have a numberof projects on the go including a wool jacket
and for spring a faux-leather mini skirt!
Visit www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk for
more information
U se t he c o d e
L OV E 16 f o r
15 % o f f a l l
o r d e r s
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e workshops pages are having a spring clean, we hope you like the new look! We will be
featuring four sewing course providers per issue in more detail, telling you about several theclasses they have coming up. If there’s anyone you’d like to recommend that we feature do pop
over to our Facebook page and let us know who. Don’t forget to leave a link so we can take a look
Rutland Sewingwww.rutlandsewing.co.uk Beginners and improvers can enjoy
dressmaking, patchwork and quilting, soft
furnishing, re-upholstery and computerised
machine embroidery and software in the
fully equipped sewing school in Rutland.
27th March & 19t h April Stripy QuiltA beautiful quilt is made from simple strips
of contrasting fabrics to make the blocks.
Although it is a good introduction to quilt
making, some experience of using a ruler
and rotary cutter and sewing a ¼” seam is
required. The full-day session will give you
the skills and knowledge to put the blocks
together and complete the quilt.
Cost: £50 for both days
Ministry of Craft www.ministryofcra.co.uk
Ministry of Cra in Manchester have a team of
experienced tutors ready to help you experience
the fun and satisfaction of being creative.
28th March Overlocking for BeginnersYou’ll learn how to get a ‘shop-bought’
professional finish on your future sewingprojects and give you the skills to enhance
(and strengthen!) everything from bags to
baby blanket to blouses, along with a whole
host of useful hints and tips. Demystify how
to thread up an overlocker correctly, along
with some all-important trouble shooting and
learn how to sew a number of stitches.
Cost: £37.50
28th March Master Zips & ButtonholesYou’ll learn about the different types of zips
and which ones you need for which project.
Then learn the practical sewing skills needed
28th March Pompom Bunnies & ChicksAn ideal Easter class for the children. Children
between the ages of 8-11 are welcome to the
morning session and the aernoon session
is for children aged 12 and over. ey will
be shown how to make adorable pompom
bunnies and chicks.Cost: £20 including materials
29th MarchDesign Your Own SkirtsA chance to take the first steps in pattern
cutting and designing your own skirts. You
will learn to dra a skirt block and adapt it
to any style you like.
Cost: £25
10th AprilLillies & Fuscias Wall Hanging Learn how to make a unique appliqué wall
hanging with tutor Amanda Boundy using
small remnants of fabric and notions.
Cost: £35
18th AprilButterfly Sling Bag A fantastic opportunity to make the fabulous
bag pictured above from US designer Emmaline
Bags for the summer months. e tutor is Sara
from Yay! Bags.Cost: £35
to sew a regular zip and invisible zip – a ll
used in making up clothes, cushions and
bags. You will also learn how to make
perfect buttonholes too.
Cost: £37.50
4th April Sew A Tunic Dress Or Top
This fashion-focused tunic dress, with aflattering boat neck, is the perfect everyday
wear. It’s the perfect project if you’re a
wannabe dressmaker as you’ll learn how
to use a pattern block and cut your fabric
correctly. You will also be guided through
heaps of dressmaking skills including hems,
seams and bust darts.
Cost: £69
11th April Sew A Girl’s DressMake a little girl's day with a gorgeous A-line
dress. Bring along your own choice of fabric,
then get to grips with understanding and
using pattern blocks. The tutor will guide
you through seams, hems and facings and
you’ll learn how to sew perfect buttonholes,
which sit prettily on the shoulders.
Cost: £45
25th April Beginner’s Sewing – Zip &Buttonhole CushionsIf you want to give your sofa a new lease of
life learn how to make two simple matching
(or contrasting!) cushions to brighten up
your home. Suitable for absolute beginners.
Cost: £65
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Make Do & Mendwww.makedomend.comBased in Chelmsford, Essex, Make Do and Mend
are a modern cra studio who want to help
keep traditional skills alive. ey have a packed
timetable of cra classes throughout the year.
4th April Square Patchwork & Quilting Join this beginner’s course to learn the square
patchwork technique and use a sewing machine to
create a mini quilt or cushion cover. You will learn
turning out techniques, measuring hints and tips,
how to attach wadding and ways to create that
classic quilted effect.
Cost: £40 – All materials included
9th April 4-week Sewing courseMake a new project each week in this evening
class. A Fantastic sewing course for completebeginners and upward. Each week learn a different
skill and process whilst making a different project
aer each session. You’ll learn how to make a
reversible tote bag, a cushion with a twist, an
apron with a frill & pleated pocket and an item
of your choosing for the last session.
Cost: £125
14th April Folk ArtLearn from Sharon Blackman, an experienced and
talented textile artist renowned for her fantastic
work. is course will include tips on applique and
simple hand embroidery stitches while you learn to
make a vintage-style picture using recycled fabrics.
Cost: £39 – All materials included
17th April Pyjama BottomsMake your own pattern and learn to sew comfy
pyjamas at this beginner’s sewing course. Bring
with you an old pair and you will be shown how
to take a pattern, an excellent skill to learn and
an easy way to learn it. You will add a band of
contrasting fabric around the bottom and gather
them with elastic with a ribbon to finish. You
will want to wear them home!
Cost: £40
18th April Freehand Pattern Cuttingwith Chinelo Bally Learn how to make a garment using the freehand
cutting method with Chinelo Bally (contestant
on e Great British Sewing Bee). is course
focuses on a stylish peplum top or, made longer,
a beautiful dress to impress! You will learn how
to transfer your measurements directly onto the
fabric and dart your garment pieces to take thebody’s contours.
Cost: £90
Exeter Sewing Machine Centrewww.exetersewing.co.uk is Devon-based, family-run business run a
wide variety of sewing courses throughout the
year in their 2 class rooms.
28th March Free-motion Embroidery
for BeginnersLearn this fun and popular technique with
Liz Kegan, author of e Sewing Machine
Embroiderer’s Bible. e class covers all the
basics and then follows with learning how to
control your machine for free motion sewing.
Use pieces of fabric, organza and netting with
lots of free motion stitching to create a textile
panel. You will learn to control stitch length,
size and direction.
Cost: £40
10th April Machine Appliqué for Beginnersis class teaches the fusible (raw edge) method of
appliqué, which is perfect for beginners. It is also
ideal for those who just want to know the basics
in order to incorporate appliqué into their own
quilting, cra and dressmaking projects.
Cost: £45
15th April Advanced Overlocking Techniqueis course covers decorative stitches, such as
rolled hem, blanket stitch, lace insertion, cor-ners and obtaining various effects with different
threads. A good follow on to the overlocking
for beginner’s course (8th April).
Cost: £55
17th – 18th April Patchwork & Quilting for BeginnersTwo-day class in which you will learn the basic
techniques for the entire process of making
a patchwork quilt. e aim of the class is to
keep it simple, whilst introducing you to the
wonderful world of quilting.
Cost: £75 for both days
22nd April Know Your Sewing Machineis class is designed to give you confidence
with your machine. You will be taken step by
step through what each part does. You will
learn about threading, tension, presser feet and
the most important utility stitches – including
buttonholes and invisible zip insertion. You
will leave feeling confident that you understandyour sewing machine.
Cost: £48
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Online fabric shop for unique European fabrics from Hilco, Stenzo,Swafing, Lillestoff and Polytex. Farbenmix and Mamu design patterns and
the popular OTTOBRE design sewing magazine for women and kids.
If you want something a little bit different then visit us at
www.dotsnstripes.co.uk
10 % o f f y o ur o r d e r w i t h co d e :Lo v e Se w i ng
Fabrics PlusPatchwork & Quilting Fabrics inc Jelly Rolls, Fat Quarters, Charm Packs etc.
Daywear and Bridal Fabric Large Range of Haberdashery
Knitting Wool & Patterns Sewing Patterns
19 Badminton Road, Downend, Bristol, BS16 6BB
Tel: 0117 3293857
www.fabricsplus.co.uk
MATERIAL NEEDSWhenever you sew or knit, you need the right materials,whether it is dress or quilting fabrics, wools/yarns,needles/pins, threads, buttons or ribbons.
We have a wonderful selection of all these, together with
a great range of haberdashery products, and there is more!
All this with helpful, knowledgeable and courteousservice to support you.
Why not try us?
Tel: 01278 794751
79 High Street, Burnham-on-Sea, Somerset, TA8 1PEwww.material-needs.co.uk [email protected]
The world’s most innovative fabricsLinton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the
world’s most exclusive fashion houses
See our website for the Linton Direct collection
www.lintondirect.co.uk
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Centre Front Studio is a sewing and textile studio that
teaches industrial and couture techniques.
Learn how to : • Sew
• Pattern Cut and Drape
• Construct Garments
• Make soft furnishings for the home• Make accessories
1 Alexandra Street, Wallsend, Tyne and Wear, NE28 7SP
www.centrefrontstudio.co.uk
7 High Street Passage, Ely, Cambs CB7 4NB
01353 664000
Lovely fabrics, sewing supplies,
books & magazines, workshops,
sewing machine sales, servicing & repairs
**New online shop coming soon**
www.sewmuchtodo.co.uk
01572 756468
www.rutlandsewing.co.uk Unit 1a, Rutland Garden Centre/Retail Village,Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 7QN
Fabric, Haberdashery
Knitting, Patterns, Books
Classes and Workshops
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GET 20% OFFJERSEY FABRIC AT WHITE TREE FABRICS
Love the flattering fit of knit jersey fabrics? Well,we’ve got a treat for you. White Tree Fabrics areoffering Love Sewing readers an exclusive 20%discount on their jersey fabrics, including thePonte Roma-style material you’ll want to makethis issue’s Great British Sewing Bee Drapey Dress.
Get yours now: To claim your discount, headtowww.whitetreefabrics.com and enterLOVESEWING at checkout before 25th April 2015.
Discounts &
giveawaysR e a d e r
Of f e r s
WIN one of three
copies ofSew-licious
Little Things
This lovely newbook is full ofgreat inspirationfor turning small
bits of fabrics into beautiful projects,perfect for using up odds and ends ofyour dressmaking projects for somematching accessories! We’ve got threecopies from our friends at Cico Books
up for grabs.
Get yours now: Sew-licious Little Things ispublished by Cico Books, £14.99www.cicobooks.com
WIN a Hemline invisible zip
insertion bundleAn invisible zip is a key part of yourdressmaking arsenal, so make sureyou’ve got the right tools for the job byentering our competition to win a bundle
of sewing machine feet for insertingthem. With this collection from Hemline,you’re sure to have the perfect foot foryour machine, and for all your invisible zipneeds. We’ve got five bundles to give away.
Get yours: Hemline products are availablenationwide from cra, haberdashery andsewing stockists. For stockists’ details
Your chance to win sewing kits, patterns, helpful tools and get an exclusive discount on jersey fabric
94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
READEROFFERS
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WINa Real Leather Saddlebag kit from Fabric
Godmother, worth £40
Working with leather can be tricky, but this chic kit from online retailer Fabric
Godmother gives you all the pleasure of leather sewing and none of the pain.Pre-cut and punched, the kit includes everything you need to make this
stylish satchel, including a special needle and thread for the sewing.It’ll be hard to believe you’ve made this yourself!
Get yours: Godmother stocks a whole range of these satchel kits online atwww.fabricgodmother.co.uk
WIN two sets of Fiskars rotary cutters and
A1 cutting mats, worth £34 each
To rotary cutter or not to rotary cutter is an on-going debate in thedressmaking world. Quilters swear by them for easy cutting, butit seems not everyone who sews garments is convinced they’re
better than good, old-fashioned scissors. Lots of close-ups on theSewing Bee of contestants (particularly Matt) rotary cutting awayhas sparked interest again, so what better way to find out whetherit works for you than to enter our competition to win one with amatching A1 cutting mat, perfectly sized for dressmaking.
Get yours: Fiskars products are widely stocked, including in thehaberdashery department at John Lewis.
WIN a SewEasy fat
quarter bundle
These SewEasy Fat Quarters have gotus feeling the love with five pretty patterneddesigns in each bundle. Made with 100% cotton andperfect for craing small keepsakes, we’ve got four to
give away worth £60.
Get yours: Sew Easy products are available nationwidefrom cra, haberdashery and sewing suppliers. Forstockists’ details email [email protected]
How to enter For a chance to win one of these prizes, enter your details,
along with thename of the product you want to win, at
www.ppjump.co.uk/lovesewing12By entering this competition you accept that your details may be passed on to a third party.
Competition open to UK entrants only. Closing date 30th April, 2015
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95
READER OFFERS
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THE SEW NG SHOP North Devon
Shirmart Crafts
For all of your cardmaking,jewellery, knitting, crocheting
and sewing needs.
77 High StreetIlfracombe
DevonEX34 9NQ
Open 6 days a week.
✆ 07976 603823✆01271 268353
POPPY PATCHWORK
71 Westbury Hill, Bristol BS9 3AD
Tel: 07900 927279
• Fabric & Wadding
• Haberdashery & Notions
• Patterns & Books
• Workshops
www.poppypatchwork.co.uk
CRAFT CORNER• Huge range of 100% cotton fabrics,
polyester, felts and calico.
Phillimore Garden Centre,Cambridge Road,
Melbourn, Hertfordshire, SG8 6EYTel: 01763 268686
11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon,
EX36 3AB, 01769 574071
Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes
and workshops.
Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday
www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk
SEW SIMPLE
Lady Heyes Craft Centre,
Kingsley Road, Frodsham,
Cheshire, WA6 6SU
Email: [email protected]
• We are Quilting and Patchwork specialists
offering a large range of 100% cotton
fabrics and quilting accessories.
• Lessons are available too.
Based in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex,
we are a friendly, well-stocked craft
shop, stocking a wide range of craft
products and supplies.
tel: 01702 512 289
• We sell plain and pattern polycottons, net, dressand curtain lining, muslin, plastic table coverings,
fleece and our new gorgeous range of 100% cotton fabrics including Gutermann, all fabrics available in
fat quarters. Have a look at our products page to seeimages of some of our fantastic stock.We also stock acrylic knitting yarns and
Babycashmerino and Juliet Summer Tweed from theDebbie Bliss range. A range of beautiful pattern booksare also available and a full range of DMC embroidery
threads.
17 Moor Street, Chepstow, Gwent. NP16 5DB01291 627056 www.thesewingshopchepstow.com
FOBBLES
Gubbergill, Irton, Holmrook, Cumbria
CA19 1YQ | 01946 724764
Specialists in Patchwork, Quilting & Needlecrafts
Fabrics, threads, patterns, books, magazines
Variety of workshops available
Tailor made retreats to suit your group
Swift effi cient mail order service
www.fobbles.co.uk
Workshops
GREENS FABRICS OF
BLACKBURN
Tel: 01254 680954
www.fabricsand
materialsonline.co.uk
North DevonHaberdashery
Essex Needlecras Bristol
Cheshire Monmouthshire Cumbria
Essex
AND SEW ON FABRICS• Family-run business, set within a beautiful craftcentre, for all your fabric needs. Michael Miller,Dashwood studios, Riley Blake, Moda etc. Also
furnishing and dressmaking fabrics.
Unit 12, Blake House Craft Centre,Rayne, Essex, CM77 6SH
Tel: 01376 346532www.andsewonfabrics.com
Haberdashery
BANBURY SEWING CENTRE57 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxon, OX16 5NB
Tel: 01295 262344Email: [email protected]
• Suppliers for sewing, knitting, craft, felting andmuch more. Telephone orders welcome.
Aldershot Haberdashery
THE BUTTONHOLE• We stock a range of high quality dress
and crafting fabrics. An extensive range ofhaberdashery. Crafting kits.
53 Chapel Street, Chorley, PR7 1BUTel: 01257 260900
Suffolk
BECCLES SEWING & HANDICRAFTSDRESSMAKING & CRAFT FABRICS,
HABERDASHERY & CRAFT REQUIREMENTSSEWING MACHINES REPAIRS & SALES
Authorised dealer for:JANOME, BROTHER, BABYLOCK, SILVER,
ELNA, SINGER, JUKI, ALFA & FRISTER+ROSSMANN.
15A, Blyburgate, Beccles, Suffolk NR34 9TB
01502 714234
96 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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FREE
Matilda tunic patternand tutorial
PLUS!
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& lots more simple, stylish sewing projects
Simple Sew sew ing patterns are designedw ith sty le ande aseofc onstruction in mindfor themodern stitcher. Your pattern comesw ith full w r itten anddraw n instructions,
online tutor ialsand f ull emails upport to help yout oc reate y our own st yle...simply .
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30-MINUTEMAKE
For a shirt that has seen better days, this quick andclever restyle will have it back to work as an apron
with a dash of boyish charm
Project: HEATHER M LOVE
Using a ruler and tailor’s chalk, draw a line
on the front of the shirt beginning at the neckwhere it meets the right shoulder seam to theright underarm of the shirt. Repeat for thele side of the shirt. (See Pic A.)
Turn shirt to backside and draw anotherline across from underarm to underarm. Next,draw another perpendicular line from the backcentre point to the underarm line. (See Pic B.)
Cut away the sleeves following thelines you have drawn. Starting at the rightunderarm seam, trim up the RS to just
below the neck seam, then follow thisseam around the back to the le side of
the garment. Now trim along yourmarkings to the le underarm.
Turn work and continue to cut along theunderarm line across the back of the shirt.Take care to trim through the back layer only.
If you have done your trimming correctly thesleeves and upper portion will come away,leaving the collar attached. Lastly, cut alongthe centre line at the back of the shirt.
Hem the edges on either side of the
vertical cut that you made up the back of the
Skill level: : OO
MATERIALS:
O collared men’s shirt
O 4m double-fold bias tape
O co-ordinating thread
O ruler
O tailor’s chalk
30-mi nu t e
m ak e
Pic: A Pic: B
30-minute Sewingby Heather M Love ispublished by SearchPress, £6.99www.searchpress.com
Upcycled
shirt and press seams. All other trimmededges will be finished using your bias tape.
Fold the bias tape in half to find centrepoint. Match this point to the centre back of
the collar and pin into place along either sideof the collar, down the front of the shirt andaround to the hemmed seams at the back.Top-stitch your bias tape into place and finish
by pressing seams.
98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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For more information Download our latest
brochure now from;
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Order yours now from your nearest Horn specialist listed below or contact us on 01793 834304 for more information
BedsTudor Rose,Patchwork,Oakley, 01234 824983www.tudorrosepatchwork.co.uk
BerksSew Devine,Reading 0118 926 8664www.sewdevine.co.uk
Sewmaster Sew/Machines,Reading 0118 957 1845www.sewmaster.co.uk
BristolDirect Sew/Machines,Bristol 0117 977 8216www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk
CambsSewcreative, Cambridge01223 350691www.sewcreative.co.uk
Cheshire Jaycotts, Chester01244 394099www.jaycotts.co.uk
CornwallDirect Sew/ Machines,Redruth, 01209 216942www.thesewingstudio.co.uk
Devon Exeter Sew/Machines,Exeter 01392 275660www.exetersewing.co.uk
Dorset Hansons Fabrics,Sturminster Newton 01258 472698www.hansonsfabrics.co.uk
EssexSuperstitch, Leigh on Sea01702 478830www.superstitch.co.uk
Dowlings Sew/mach,Wickford 01268 562022www.dowling-sew.co.uk
Greater LondonSew-works,Ewell, 0208 393 8488www.sewworks.co.uk
Lewisham & Deptford Sew/Mach0208 6921077www.sewingmachinesuk.co.uk
Regent Sew/Machines,Ilford 0208 478 0669www.homeofsewing.co.uk
Wimbledon Sew/Machines,Wimbledon 0208 542 5240www.wimsewretail.co.uk
Greater ManchesterBambers Sew/Machines,Manchester 0161 707 7786www.bambersew.com
GlosWestend Sew/Centre,Cheltenham 01242 244025www.westendsewing.co.uk
HantsHampshire Sewing Machines,Fareham 01329 280499www.hampshiresewingmachines.com
HertsRona Sewing Machines,Waltham X 01992 640250www.onlinesewingmachines.co.uk
Sewfine Sew/Machines,Watford 01923 693734www.sewfine.co.uk
KentThe World of Sewing,Pratts Bottom 01689 638638www.worldofsewing.com
CCB Sew/ Machines,Rochester, 01634 841597
www.ccbsewing.co.uk
Maidstone Sewing Centre,Maidstone 01622 670254www.sewingmachinesuk.co.uk
Ashford Sew/Knit Centre, Ashford, 01223 620948www.sewingcentres.com
The World of Sewing,Tunbridge Wells 01892 533188www.worldofsewing.com
Welling Sew/Machines,Welling 0208 304 0470
LancsDalby & Jones Ltd.,Preston, 01772 254558www.sewingmachinespreston.co.uk
Etty-Lilly,Bolton le Sands, 01524 734713www.etty-lilly.co.uk
Hobkirk Sew/Mach Ltd.,Blackburn 01254 693555www.hobkirk.co.uk
Lords at Oswaldtwistle Mills,01254 389171www.lordsewing.co.uk
S A Sew/MachinesRochdale 01706 355529www.sasewingmachines.co.uk
The Sew/Knit Centre,Southport, 01704 534688
LincsCouling Sew/Machines,Lincoln 01522 521841www.coulingsewingmachines.co.uk
NorfolkSew Creative, Norwich01603 305888www.sewcreative.co.uk
Sew/Mach World, Kings Lynn01553 773362www.sewingmachineworldonline.co.uk
NorthantsSew-Northampton, Northampton01604 637200www.sewing-centres.co.uk
NottsColes Sewing Centre Ltd.,Nottingham 0115 988 1550www.colessewingcentre.co.uk
Singer Sewing Centre,Beeston, 0115 922 3904www.singershop.co.uk
OxonGTS Sew/MachBanbury 01295 701384www.gtssewingmachines.co.uk
ShropsSewing Centre, Shrewsbury01743 343902www.sewingmachinesshropshire.co.uk
SomersetBredons Sew/Machines,Taunton 01823 272450www.bredons.co.uk
Husqvarna Studio, Bath01225 482413www.husqvarnastudiobath.co.uk
SuffolkSew creative, Bury St. Edmunds01284 755459www.sewcreative.co.uk
SurreyThe World of Sewing,Croydon 0208 681 1811www.worldofsewing.com
Sewmaster Sew/Machines,Guildford 01483 567609www.sewmaster.co.uk
Tyne & WearTullys, Sunderland0191 565 7995www.tullyssewingmachines.co.uk
The Fat Quarters,Newcastle 01207 56572801207 565728
Singer Machines Ltd,Whitley Bay 0191 252 5825www.sewingmachine-sales.co.uk
West MidlandsBrewers Sew/Mach Ltd.,Wolverhampton 01902 458885
www.brewersuk.co.uk
D.C.Nutt Sew/Machines,Bloxwich 01922 497603www.dcnuttsewingmachines.co.uk
Frank Nutt Sew/Machines,Kings Heath.0121 444 3978www.franknutt.co.uk
L.M.Nutt Sew/Machines,Sutton Coldfield 0121 373 5497www.nuttsewingshop.co.uk
WiltsCloth of Gold,Wootton Bassett 01793 853908
WorcsCreative Hands 2,Worcester 01905 24940
www.creativehands2.co.uk
Yorks Whiterose Sew/Craft CentreHarrogate 01423 503767www.whiterosesewing.co.uk
Flynns Sew/centre, At Browns of York,01904 561234www.flynns-york.co.uk
Helens Houses,Doncaster 01302 708227www.helenshouses.co.uk
M.K.C. Sew/MachLeeds 0113 245 3156Www.mkcservice.co.uk
ScotlandDavid Drummond,Edinburgh 0131 539 7766
Pembertons Sew & Craft Centre,Stirling 01786 462993www.psmc.co.uk
WalesNewport Sew/Centre,Newport 01633 284646www.jbsewing.com
Sew/Mach Direct, Wrexham,0800 092 5215www.sewingmachines.co.uk
Finished in 3 attractive, durable
finishes available from stock.
Handy storage areas including 2
removable storage accessory
boxes. Extra storage can be added
by purchasing the Horn ‘Rolla
Storage’ unit
Fantastically compact—only2½” by 1½” when its closed
Fitted with a convenient lift up
back working area which is ideal
for supporting heavier, larger
projects helping to eliminate
’needle dag’.
Delivered fully assembled by our
ow n delivery vehicles.
A flatbed insert custom cut to fit
your sewing machine- i ncluded
Fitted with our easy push down
release air-lifter system. With just a simple push down it will lift your
sewing machine into either a
flatbed or to a free- arm position
making it ready to be used in a
matter of seconds.
Even with its compact dimensions
this cabinet is still capable of fitting
virtually all sewing machines
except for a few of the very largest
ones on the market today. (For
these larger machines you will
need one of our cabinets fitted with
a ’maxi’ air-lifter. If you have any
doubts, please contact us to find
out more information on fitting
your particular brand and model of
sewing machine)
7 large lockable smooth running
castors; so its easy to move around
and well supported whilst its being
used.
Set your sewing machine up in seconds….
…. No need to lift, carry or struggle to find where to use your sewing machine again!
T he small se
w in g cabin
et
w it h bi g id
eas!
The Horn
Gemini C a n ’ t g e
t t o s e e t h e o n e
y o u ’ d l i k e ?
Co m e see o u r ra n
ge a t a n
exh i bi ti o n .
Vi si t u s a t
w w w. h o r n
f u r n i t u r e. c
o. u k/ e v e n
t s/
to f i n d o u t wh e re
we a re n ext…...
Ask us about our new range of precision made German
scissors….. a perfect companion for your new cabinet.
Possibly the best scissors you’ll ever get to use!
7/25/2019 Love Sewing Issue 12, 2015.pdf
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