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Bullitt County Extension 384 Halls Lane Shepherdsville, KY 40165 (502) 543-2257 Fax: (502) 543-6940 www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu Lorilee Kunze

In This Issue

Upcoming Meetings

MARK YOUR CALENDARS Seasonal Plants 2-6 Winterizing Your Garden Tools 7 Kale and Cabbage 8 A Hidden Gem at UofL 9 Fall Vegetable Garden 10 Broccoli Chowder 13 Photo Contest Results 14 Deer Camp Breakfast Sausage 15

Bullitt County Master Gardeners’ Association &

Horticulture Council Meeting 1st Tuesday of Each Month

December 3rd at 6:00 PM

All classes offered by the

Horticulture Program require preregistration.

Call 543-2257 to RSVP so you are ensured handouts and notice of

reschedule or cancellation.

Register for classes

November Wednesday, Nov. 13th 7:00PM

Beekeepers Association

Friday Nov. 22nd 6:00PM Home Made Ornaments

Office Closed for Thanksgiving Holiday Thursday, Nov. 28th &

Friday Nov. 29th

December Wednesday Dec. 11th 7:00PM

Beekeepers Association

Office Closed for Holiday Season Saturday, December 21st

through January 1st 2020. We will reopen on January 2nd.

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Seasonal Plants Brighten the Holiday Season Bob Anderson, Extension Specialist in Floriculture and Karen Shahan, Extension Staff Assistant

The colorful plants that you have enjoyed during the Christmas holidays can be a reminder of the holiday season for many months. Correct care of these plants will make them a welcome addition to your collection of houseplants.

Poinsettia Today, according to the United States Department of Agriculture, poinsettias, Euphorbia pulcherrima, family Euphorbiaceae, are the number one potted flowering plant grown in the United States.

The standard three to six bloom, red poinsettia is the most commonly sold, but plants can be grown in a number of sizes from one flower per 2-inch pot to 75 or more flowers in a 24-inch pot. Colors range from creamy white to yellow through shades of pink, salmon and burgundy to different shades of the traditional red. Some poinsettias can be found with marbled bracts

of pink and white as well as those with pink flecks on red or red flecks on pink. Varieties may have bright green, dark green or variegated foliage. Poinsettias can be purchased in miniature sizes, tree form and hanging baskets.

Care and Handling Tips Poinsettias can remain beautiful far beyond the holiday season if the plant is cared for carefully. Some tips to keep in mind: Choose a plant with small, tightly clustered yellow buds in the center. Look for crisp, bright, undamaged foliage. At home, water the plant when dry; discard excess water in the saucer. Place in a room with bright, natural light. Ideally, direct sunlight should fall on the foliage for three or more hours each day. Keep out of drafts and away from appliances and radiators. After a few weeks, fertilize with ordinary houseplant fertilizer.

Make Your Plant Bloom Again You can make that festive holiday spirit last all year. Coaxing your poinsettia to bloom again can be a fun project. Follow this calendar to keep them beautiful and healthy all year.

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• Christmas: Select plants with tightly clustered, yellow buds. Protect from hot or cold drafts, water when dry, and place in a room with bright natural light.

• New Year’s Day: Use an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer. Keep the plant in a sunny window, water regularly, fertilize monthly. Plant will remain colorful for many weeks

• St. Patrick's Day (March 17): Remove faded flowers and bracts and dried leaves from the plant. Add more soil, preferably a commercially available sterile mix. For a smaller plant - prune stems about three to six inches to remove colored bracts. Fertilize with complete houseplant fertilizer.

• Mothers' Day: Plant should be approaching three feet in height. Trim off two to six inches of the branches to promote side branching. Repot to a larger container (two to three sizes larger). Move plant outside; first to indirect, then direct sunlight (a location that receives full sun each day for at least six hours).

• June-July: Fertilize the plant every two weeks; water regularly.

o Fourth of July: Trim plant again. Make sure it is in full sunlight. Slightly increase amount of fertilizer.

• August-October: Fertilize every week. Water frequently, once or twice a day

• Labor Day (early September): Plant may have grown to three to five feet. It can be pruned to a height of 18-24 inches. Move indoors but make sure it has six hours of direct sunlight from a curtain-free

window. Continue regular water and fertilizer.

• First Day of Autumn (September 21): Selectively remove the smallest new branches so only 10 to 25 stems remain to produce flowers.

o September 21 to October 1, give the plant 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness and 10 hours of bright sunlight each day. For example, each day place the plant in a light-free closet or under a box at 6 p.m. each evening and return it to the sunny window at 8 a.m. the next morning. Or simply place the plant in a little used south facing room and be sure not to turn the lights on in the room from 6 p.m. to 8 a.m. each day. Continue to water and fertilize. Rotate the plant each day to give all sides even light.

• Halloween (October 31): Stop day/night light/dark treatment. Keep plant in a sunny area. Reduce fertilizer applications. The plant can remain in its usual full sun location as the upper leaves (bracts) turn red, pink or white.

• November-December: Fertilize every three weeks. Water regularly.

• Christmas: Enjoy your beautiful "new" poinsettia.

Holiday Cactus In shades of white, golden yellow, pink, rose, coral and red, the flowers of holiday cacti look like exotic birds in flight. It is no wonder that these fall and winter blooming plants have become holiday favorites.

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People group holiday cacti together under the term "Christmas cactus." Actually, most holiday cacti are derived from the Thanksgiving or crab cactus, Schlumbergera truncata, family Cactaceae. The true Christmas cactus is Schlumbergera bridgesii. The main difference between the two is the shape of the leaf like stem segments. In the Thanksgiving cactus, the edges of the segments are toothed or pointed; in the Christmas cactus, the segments are smaller and have rounded lobes. The Thanksgiving cactus tends to grow more upright, while the Christmas cactus tends to be more pendulous, or drooping.

Plants grown in the home do best in a light, peat-based potting soil and containers with holes for drainage. Avoid potting in heavy mineral-type soils (garden soil), where over watering will quickly lead to root rot and plant death.

Though holiday cacti naturally flower around Thanksgiving and Christmas, commercial growers take no chances -- they manipulate light levels and temperatures to guarantee timely flowering. Holiday cacti bloom in response to short days and/or cool

temperatures. In the greenhouse or in the home, expose them to nine hours of light and 15 hours of darkness each day, starting in September, to cause plants to set flower buds. Holding temperatures between 50 and 59F will stimulate flowering despite day length.

Kentucky gardeners that reflower their holiday cactus each year, simply leave the plants outdoors through September and protect the plants from frost if necessary. When the plants are brought indoors in early October, flower buds are set and the plants flower around Thanksgiving.

To Rebloom Holiday Cactus

The following schedule is appropriate for all holiday cacti, the true Christmas cactus and the Thanksgiving or cactus.

• January-May: Give plants a sunny location indoors. Water the plants two to four days after the soil appears dry. This plant prefers to be drier than most houseplants but not as dry as other cacti and succulents. Fertilize each month with a complete houseplant fertilizer.

• June 1: Bring plants outdoors to a location that receives about six hours of sunlight each day. Repot into 8" or 10" pot or basket and use very light, well-drained growing media.

• June-August: Continue watering and fertilizing your plants as in the spring. Summer rainfall may give the plants all the water necessary for good growth.

• September 1: Begin dry period, reduce the frequency of watering by one-half to

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reduce disease problems. Fertilize only every six weeks.

• September-October: Plants should remain outdoors until October 15 to allow flower promotion during the cool weather. Protect plants from frost on the coldest nights. Thanksgiving cacti flower consistently after the dry, cool temperature treatment or sporadically without treatment. Plants flower for three to four weeks beginning in mid-November. If Christmas cacti do not remain outdoors until October 15, treat plants with the uninterrupted night (short day) treatment described for poinsettias. Late, inconsistent flowering with fewer flowers will be apparent at Christmas without the flower promotion treatments.

• November 15-December 15: Enjoy a beautiful holiday cactus!

Kalanchoe

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (family Crassulaceae) is a plant native to Madagascar with other related species originating from arid regions of tropical Africa. It is an ideal plant for the homeowner because it withstands periods of drought and tolerates

low light. Kalanchoe is a succulent plant. It can be successfully rebloomed in the home following the directions that follow.

• January-March: Plants must be grown in a sunny location. Fertilize with complete houseplant fertilizer once per month.

• April 1: Prune one to three inches off remaining flower stems. Pruning is necessary to stimulate new vegetative growth. Some cultivars are very slow to start vegetative growth and may continue to produce flowers even during long days.

• April-September: Plants must be grown in a full sun location or outside. Fertilize with a complete houseplant fertilizer every three weeks. Kalanchoes are succulent plants so be careful not to over-water them; water two to four days after the soil appears dry.

• September 15: Begin the flower promotion treatment. Plants must receive absolutely NO light from 6 p.m. in the evening until 8 a.m. the next morning. If you move the plant to a dark location at 6 p.m. each evening, you must return the plant to its full sun location each day.

• September-December: Plants must be in a sunny location during the day. Be sure not to over-water the plants and fertilize every three weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer.

• November 1: Stop the flower promotion (short-day) treatment. You may leave the plants in their full sun location as flower buds develop.

• December 10: Enjoy a beautiful kalanchoe!

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Cyclamen

Cyclamen persicum, the original species, is native to Palestine, Asia Minor and islands of the Aegean and eastern Mediterranean seas.

Well-grown specimens of modern-day cultivars have excellent keeping qualities if cared for properly. They should be kept in a bright, cool location, and watered properly. Watering should be done in the morning to reduce the risk of disease. The plants should not be allowed to dry out. Cyclamen plants need good air circulation to minimize diseases. The plants should remain attractive for a minimum of six weeks in the home. Cyclamen can flower from Thanksgiving to Mothers' Day if kept in a cool (55F to 60F), sunny location. Plants in very small pots may not last quite as long unless given close attention.

• January-March: Cyclamen plants will continue to produce flowers if kept in a bright sunny window and at temperatures of 55F to 65F. If you do not have a suitably cool area, it may be best to discard the plant rather than grow it for

next year. Water the plants regularly and thoroughly but be sure not to over-water. Fertilize with a complete houseplant fertilizer once per month.

• April-June: As temperatures increase outdoors, the cyclamen will cease flowering and eventually all the foliage will yellow and die. Reduce watering accordingly as the plant slowly dries and goes dormant.

• July-August: Store the potted dormant cyclamen corm (swollen bulb-like stem) in a location that doesn't get hot and dry. Water the dormant corm two to three times during the period so it does not dry out totally.

• September: Bring the dormant potted cyclamen to a full sun location as the night temperatures get cooler. Water the plant, with small amounts initially, to cause leaves to develop.

• October-December: Keep your cyclamen in a full sun location where night temperatures are 55F to 65F. Water the plants regularly and thoroughly but be sure not to over-water. Fertilize with a complete houseplant fertilizer every two weeks.

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Winterizing Garden ToolsYou know the feeling: it's finally spring, you're getting home full of excitement after a trip to your local nursery, and you're ready to get to work in your garden. You open up your toolshed, and the excitement is replaced with horror. Your tools are rusted and cracked– gardening will have to wait. But it doesn't have to be like that. With a few simple steps at the end of fall, you can ensure your garden tools are in great shape and ready to use when you need them at the start of spring. That's right – no headache, just gardening.

• Garden hoses: Thoroughly drain, then store rolled up and laid flat. Improper storage may result in splitting and cracking of the hose.

• Hedge shears, pruning saws, loppers and hand pruners: Clean, sharpen, and oil before storing. Depending on what is on your tools, you can use anything from steel wool (with lots of elbow grease) to rubbing alcohol. For tough to get off pine pitch and sap, you can also clean your tools using a rag dipped in paint thinner (follow directions on the can for safety). Once you sharpen the cutting blades of these tools, oil them thoroughly to prevent them from rusting.

• Sprayers and spreaders: Drain and clean thoroughly. Oiling the metal parts of the

sprayer can help prevent rust. Fertilizer that remains in the spreader will absorb water, which will cause the spreader to rust. Lubricate all moving parts and wipe all parts prone to rust with an oil rag.

• Shovels, rakes, hoes, and other hand tools: Clean with soap and water before storing. If any soil remains caked on, use a wire brush or steel wool. This will also help to remove rust spots. Treatment of the wood handles is important to prevent drying, cracking, or weathering of the handle. Paint the handles with boiled linseed oil, which you can purchase at most hardware stores. Coat the metal parts with a light weight oil or a silicone spray. This treatment will help to prevent rust.

• Tools with a blade: Re-sharpen using a power grinder or hand file. Replace any broken or split wooden handles.

The one tool that you may need to use during the winter months is a snow shovel. Check and clean the blade and ensure the handle is in good shape. A helpful hint when shoveling wet winter snow is to wax the shovel blade or spray it with silicone. You can even use your favorite cooking oil spray on the blade. This will help the snow slide off the blade easily instead of sticking. Your storage area should be dry and clean. Take the time not only to winterize your tools, but to organize them. Checking, cleaning, sharpening, oiling, drying, and organizing your garden tools at the end of fall will set you up for success in the spring.

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Kale and Cabbage; A Pretty, Delicious Winter Favorite Dr. Gary R. Bachman MSU Extension Service

Ornamental kale and cabbage are a “can’t miss” choice for cool season color. These plants are not very fussy and will grow all winter, displaying their vibrant colors.

While these plants are marketed as ornamentals and may not be as flavorful as the culinary varieties, they

are perfectly acceptable for baked kale and cabbage chips. If you plan to eat them, try to start your own plants from seed. It’s really quite easy.

You may be surprised to learn that ornamental kale and cabbage belong to the same species. Ornamental cabbage usually refers to selections that have smooth and more or less unruffled leaves. Kale, on the other hand, has ruffled, textured leaves, and many have feathered leaf edges. This, in my opinion, makes ornamental kale more interesting and cabbage more stabilizing in the winter landscape.

There are many different colors and leaf textures to add landscape interest, so don’t plant a single type. Mix and match for increased visual interest in your landscape.

Many recommend harvesting leaves from the outside and letting the plants continue to

grow more. This will be an easy way to get some fresh greens all winter long.

Remember that drought conditions can occur in the winter, and kale and cabbage like consistent soil moisture. A layer of mulch can help by conserving soil moisture. But don’t forget that cabbage and kale don’t like “wet feet” either, so good bed drainage is essential.

Some of the best growth and performance can be obtained by planting kale and cabbage in special, self-watering containers. I really like seeing curly kale, destined for a winter recipe, growing lined up in these containers. While this is a variety typically grown for food, its ruffled and crinkled edges look good right up to harvest day.

Ornamental cabbage and kale are actually fairly heavy feeders. I like to add a tablespoon of a good slow-release fertilizer into each planting hole to get the plants off to a great start. On a monthly schedule, I apply a water-soluble fertilizer to keep the plants healthy and growing strong.

Try this easy kale chip recipe. Clean the leaves, and remove the large midrib from your kale. Mix with a little extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, and then bake at 240 degrees for about 45 minutes.

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A Hidden Gem at UofL In the orchard at Woolsthorpe Manor, Sir Isaac Newton’s birthplace and family home, is the original apple tree that inspired the theory of gravity. From that tree, many cuttings have been given to halls of learning around the world. One of these clones is growing on the University of Louisville’s campus.

Located at Bettie Johnson Hall, this apple tree looks like any other and to passersby, wouldn’t seem particularly special.

Unfortunately in 2007 the tree suffered some damage. In an attempt to further the legacy of this tree, and to help educate residents and faculty at the location; Ray Armstrong, a Master Gardener with the Bullitt County Cooperative Extension Service facilitated an onsite workshop as part of the partnership

between the University of Kentucky and the University of Louisville. Mr. Armstrong demonstrated how to properly prune fruit trees and how to take a cutting. The cutting from UofL’s apple tree will be grafted onto root stock and will hopefully grow into a healthy clone of the original tree.

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Storing Vegetables

Vegetables do not improve in quality after harvest. Therefore, harvesting sound, healthy produce at the proper stage of maturity is important. Produce that will be stored must be harvested carefully to avoid bruising and to maintain quality. Breaks in the skin enable decay organisms to enter the produce and also increase moisture loss.

Vegetables and fruits can be grouped in four basic storage groups: • The cool- and cold-moist groups may be stored in an old-fashioned outdoor pit or underground root cellar. • The cold- and cool-dry groups can be stored in a cool area of a basement or garage.

While storage does not require investment in expensive equipment, it does demand an awareness of good food characteristics and periodic examination to remove defective produce.

Generally, late-maturing varieties are better suited for storage. Garden crops held in storage are still living plants that are kept dormant by their environment. If these crops are subjected to adverse conditions like lack of oxygen, freezing, or excessive

moisture, they can die or decay. Produce can tolerate less than optimum storage conditions, but storage life is shortened. You can store some produce in the garden right where it grew. It may be protected from late fall frosts and freezing by insulating materials such as straw, dry leaves, sawdust or soil. Root crops such as carrots, turnips and parsnips will store well this way. When the ground begins to freeze

in late fall, cover them with a heavy mulch of straw or dry leaves to make midwinter harvesting easier. Beets, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, kale, leeks and onions can also withstand light frosts. They can be stored for several weeks under heavy mulch but usually will not keep through the winter. Be sure to plant crops to be stored under mulch in a spot that is easily accessible for winter removal. A 20-gallon trash container can be buried in the ground for storage and is more easily opened and

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closed than a soil mound or trench. Metal cans are more rodent proof than plastic. Drill holes in the bottom for drainage (Figure 34). Leave 1 to 2 inches of the can above the soil level and use straw to cover the lid. A foam plastic chest also makes a good small produce storage container and can be kept in an unheated garage or building. Use separate containers for fruits and vegetables. Be sure the storage containers are clean so that they do not impart flavors or odors to the stored produce. Basement areas near the furnace make an acceptable storage site for winter squash and pumpkins. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature in various areas of a basement or building to find locations

adaptable for good food storage. Basement window wells which open inward and have exterior wells can be converted to small storage areas if the well is covered after the weather turns cool and is insulated with bales of hay or straw.

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Majestic Cardinal by Cindy Phelps

1st place

Winter’s Majesty by Cindy Phelps

2nd place

Perfect Reflections by Michael Moore

3rd place

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Cover: Clematis by Clifton Keller

January: Winter’s Majesty by Cindy Phelps

February: Tulip Poplar by Lorilee Kunze

March: Cabbage by John Phillips

April: Daffodil saying, “Good morning sun!” by Carolyn Puckett

May: Blue Squill by Barbara Moore

June: Sunflower by John Phillips

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July: Tomatoes by Ruby Morris

August: Coneflower by John Philips

September: Tickseed by Clifton Keller

October: It Rained Leaves by Michael Moore

November: Perfect Reflections by Michael Moore

December: Majestic Cardinal by Cindy Phelps

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