The University of MaineDigitalCommons@UMaine

Maine Sea Grant Publications Maine Sea Grant

Winter 2012

Long May They RunCatherine V. SchmittMaine Sea Grant, catherine.schmitt@umit.maine.edu

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Repository CitationSchmitt, Catherine V., "Long May They Run" (2012). Maine Sea Grant Publications. 13.https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/seagrant_pub/13

“Red herring! Red herring!”Poet Karin Spitfire waded through a crowded class-

room, waving a red-crayoned paper fish in the airabove her head. She was joined at the front of the

room by fellow poet Gary Lawless, who told the audi-ence that he and Spitfire were concerned about the lossof herring, the loss of the sardine industry that depend-ed on herring, and the loss of the communities theysupported.

The people gathered at the Herring Gut LearningCenter in Port Clyde on a summer evening in 2010were there to learn more about this loss. They weresummer people mostly, folks who did not know until

that moment that a Maine“sardine” is a “her-ring”—Clupea haren-gus— a small school-ing fish now bestknown by lobstermen,who use them for bait.

“You mean that thereason this road iscalled Factory Road is

because there used tobe a fish factory here?”

someone asked, as a film of the once-thriving PortClyde Sardine Cannery flashed on a screen. Others, thelocals who worked in the factory and had come to sharetheir stories, smiled and nodded.

“I herring! I herring!” recited Spitfire, launchinginto her ode to the once-teeming schools of silver.

I Herring,Atlantic, Alewife, Blueback, Shad Feed EverybodyStriper, Seal, Shorebird, Cornfields, Croatians

NOT LONG AGO, Karin Spitfire’s concern for theocean, always strong, intensified when she

heard that federal managers planned to restrict theamount of herring fishermen are allowed to catch. Sheused the term red herring, she said,“because we need to be distractedfrom our current course that isemptying the sea of fish.” Shepartnered with Lawless to desig-nate 2010 as the Year of the Sar-

74

Artists, poets, connoisseurs, and just

Long May Poets Karin Spitfire

and Gary Lawless. Their concernabout declining stocks helped spark

the “Year of the Sardine.”

This sign was recentlychanged to reflecta new use of theplant: packing lobster.

dine. As the giant sardine droppedon New Year’s Eve in Eastport—anecho of the glittery ball that dropson New York’s Times Square—thepoets launched a year of herring-themed readings and events.

Gary Lawless, who grew up inBelfast, used to work on a lobster-boat. It was his job to fetch baitfrom the local sardine factory. Heand Spitfire saw an opportunity toremind people of a fish and anindustry that had sustained the coastof Maine for a century.

Just a few months into the Year of the Sardine,news came that the Stinson Seafood plant in ProspectHarbor—the last sardine cannery in the UnitedStates—was closing. The sardine song became arequiem; the herring hymn an elegy that carried acrossthe continent, across the Atlantic, and even intoPenobscot Bay. That’s where I heard it.

WHEN THE CLOSURE of Stinson Seafood wasannounced by Bumble Bee Foods, the owner of thecannery, I knew I would have to write a sardine story.As I dipped into my own files and the records of mypredecessors at Maine Sea Grant—a research and edu-cation program of the National Oceanic and Atmos-pheric Adminstration, based at the University ofMaine since 1971—I found a wealth of sardine storiesand lore. This sardine obsession wasn’t new. I foundblack-and-white photos and graphic art, recipes andpromotional material—including a comic book—from the Maine Sardine Council. There were alsonewspaper clippings, fact sheets, and a reminiscenceby Kathleen Lignell Ellis, Maine Sea Grant’s first sci-ence writer, about her return to Lubec, her one-timehome and inspiration for her poem, “In the SardineFactory.”

There can be no other laborlike the slitting of dead fish

into fillets,no scissors so sharpthey miss and cut off chunks of fingers and sometimes missing

altogetheryou gash your partner at the

bloody table,missing pieces of flesh with

scales and fins….

I wasn’t the only one who wouldbe writing the obituary of an industry

and a way of life. Reporters from The New York Timesand the Associated Press found their way to theSchoodic Peninsula to document the fishy smell andconveyor-belt maze of a real-life American factorywith real-life American workers. They discovered,among others, 78-year-old Lela Anderson, who start-ed working at the factory in the 1940s.

Could I possibly find anything new to say aboutsardines, the “Flavor of Maine”? And what would bethe point? After all, the fish were gone and the lastsardine cannery had shuttered. What’s a poet to dowhen there’s nothing left but antique boats andsardine tin labels glued to a poster on a class-room wall? Keep writing, keep singing.

www.maineboats.com | MAINE BOATS, HOMES & HARBORS 75

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY CATHERINE SCHMITT

plain folks celebrate the Maine sardine.

They Run

There is a certain industrial beauty in stacks of sardine tins.

76 MAINE BOATS, HOMES & HARBORS | WINTER 2012 | Issue 117

SOON AFTER THE YEAR of the Sardineproject began, poems began streaming in from

all over the world to sardinesong.blogspot.com, awebsite which became a kind of meeting place for

sardine-inspired artists. Kendall Morse of Rocklandwrote a sardine play. Doug Brown of Belfast wrote sar-dine limericks. To the tune of Gordon Bok’s “HerringCroon,” these works joined a legacy of sardine-themedart from the past by photographers Tammy Packie ofHulls Cove and Kosti Ruohomaa of Rockland, engraverCarroll Thayer Berry of Rockport, and painters LorettaKrupinksi and Michael Goldberg, whose painting, “Sar-dines,” inspired Frank O’Hara’s poem, “Why I am not apainter.”

Why are people so drawn to these little fish, thehumble tins they’re packed in? I hungered for answers.I wanted to be inspired. I was, when Sea Grant provid-ed funding for a documentary of the Stinson Seafoodplant to Ben Fuller of Penobscot Marine Museum. Themuseum contains the archives of the Maine SardineCouncil and has worked to restore thesardine carrier Jacob Pike. Workingwith the University of Maine NewMedia Department, the Maine Folk-life Center, the SALT Institute forDocumentary Studies, Compass

Light Productions, and the His-toric American Engineering

Record of the Library ofCongress, Fuller

pulled together a film crew. On the heels of the docu-mentarians, I had my own tour of the plant, two weeksbefore it closed in April 2010.

I arrived at the 83-year-old cannery on a foggy springmorning and parked beneath the giant silhouette of a fish-erman in a yellow sou’wester holding a tin of Beech Cliff

sardines. I put on a hair net and earplugs and, guided byplant manager Peter Colson, toured the cavernous con-crete and stainless-steel maze. I smelled the fishy smell andheard the clicking of the conveyor belts and saw the

The sardine-packing jobs inProspect Harbor representedemployment in a land where

opportunity is scarce. Butmore importantly, they were

the last chapter in a storyfamiliar to many of Maine’s

coastal communities.

A SARDINE IS A SARDINE IS A….

Any of 21 species of small herring-like fish can be put in a can and be called a “sardine.”The original sardine, Sardina pilchardus, the species first canned by the French in

the early 19th century, was named after the island of Sardinia in the Mediterranean Sea.All other canned “sardines” have some kind of qualifier (country, other place name, orcommon name of the species) on the label.

“Maine sardines” are Atlantic herring, Clupea harengus. They are schooling fish inthe same family as shad, alewives, and menhaden. According to the Maine Departmentof Marine Resources, the Atlantic herring is the most important pelagic (surface) fish-ery resource in the state of Maine. Herring are also an important food source forseabirds, marine mammals, and a variety of larger fish species.

“Brisling sardines” are usually the European sprat, Sprattus sprattus.

Long MayThey Run...

www.maineboats.com | MAINE BOATS, HOMES & HARBORS 77

women standing in the productionline, packing pieces of fish into tins. Iwaved to Lela Anderson, still packingsardines after all those years.

The storage warehouse was most-ly empty except for a few pallets of

sardine cans ready for shipping. A lone cube of herringshipped in from New Jersey thawed in the refrigerationbuilding. With Maine herring supplies tight, the plant hadto look farther away to find the steady supply of fish need-ed to keep the plant running efficiently. Although the fed-eral government considered the Atlantic herring fisherysustainable, the New England Fisheries ManagementCouncil had cut the Gulf of Maine herring quota for 2010,prompting Bumble Bee Foods to close the plant.

“The corporations can’t understand why everyone isso upset about a loss of 120 jobs,” said manager Peter Col-son, whose father spent 46 years in the sardine business.The jobs in Prospect Harbor represented employment ina land where such opportunity is scarce. But more impor-

tantly, they were the last chapter in a story familiar tomany of Maine’s coastal communities.

Since the first sardine cannery in Eastport in 1875,Atlantic herring have sustained a way of life in Maine.Many a Maine kid made a few dollars a day snippingheads and tails in the cutting room. Women mostlyworked the packing line; men moved the blocks of tinsthrough the cooking and sealing machines.

By 1900, 75 canneries were packing 345,000,000 tinsof sardines per year, equal to about 70 million poundsof juvenile herring, according to Dr. Jason Stockwell, anecologist at the Gulf of Maine Research Institute. “Thesenumbers are one-third of the weight of recent harvests,”said Stockwell, “but five times the number of fish.”That’s because back then small, one-year-old herringwere harvested.

It was these tiny fish I wondered about. The herringpacked as sardines today are much larger. I followedPeter Colson up to his office after my tour of the Stin-son Seafood factory floor and asked him about that.

“When I think about eating sardines when I wasyoung,” I said, “I seem to remember that they weresmaller, that there were more of them in a can. Is thatjust my imagination or were the fish smaller then?”

“You’re right,” he said. “Atlantic herring usedto come much closer to shore, where they

“When I think about eating sardines when I was young,”I said, “I seem to remember that they were smaller, that there

were more of them in a can. Is that just my imagination orwere the fish smaller then?”

FINN Y TIDBITS

John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row in Monterey, California, was founded by Maine sar-dine industrialists.

Maine sardines fed the troops during World War II, which fueled excessive devel-opment of the industry that couldn’t be sustained in peace time. The fishery began todecline after a peak harvest of 185 million pounds in 1950. The boats got bigger, andthe fishery moved offshore. In 2009, Maine fishermen harvested 28 million pounds ofAtlantic herring, most of which was used for lobster bait.

“The packing of sardines differs from that of most food products put up in cans,in that it is necessary to arrange the small fish carefully to insure an attractive lookingfinished product. No other foodstuff requires the same skill or technique in the matterof being placed in their containers. (F.C. Weber, “The Maine Sardine Industry” USDABulletin, 1921.)

Collectors of sardine tins are known as sardinopuxiphiliacs.“Throughout Spain and as far away as Cuba, the end of Lenten fasting and fish eat-

ing is still marked by the Ash Wednesday ‘Burial of the Sardine,’ in which men dressedas women, and women dressed as men, carry huge papier-mache sardines on a bierthrough the streets, wailing ‘¡Por que!’ [“why?”] with much sardonic sobbing.” TarasGrescoe, Bottomfeeder, 2008.

“The corporations can’t understandwhy everyone is upset about

a loss of 120 jobs.”

continued on page 80

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80 MAINE BOATS, HOMES & HARBORS | WINTER 2012 | Issue 117

were netted with weirs and stop-seines inthe coves. Now, the fish are caught as adultsand they are bigger, which means less piecesin a can.”

I left the plant with a craving for sar-dines, the small ones I remembered fromchildhood, 10 or 12 in a can, with bonesand tails.

ACCORDING TO COLSON, demand fortinned sardines was actually up in recentyears. And fresh sardines were once againavailable on the Pacific Coast, where thecomeback of Sardinops sagax caerulea ledthe Monterey Bay Aquarium to recom-mend sardines as a sustainable and healthyseafood choice. Sardines were showing upon four-star restaurant menus. Food writ-ers encouraged Americans to “take a freshlook” at sardines. Taras Grescoe, author ofBottomfeeder, advised consumers to eat fishthat are low on the food chain. MarkBittman instructed New York Times readershow to make restaurant-style “grilled sar-dines” at home.

Meanwhile, most of Maine’s herringweirs disappeared as coastal runs of juve-nile fish declined and fishermen moved off-

Demand for tinned sardines was actually up in recent years andsardines were showing up on four-

star restaurant menus.

continued from page 77

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www.maineboats.com | MAINE BOATS, HOMES & HARBORS 81

shore in the 1980s. Allowable harvest inthe inshore or coastal region of the Gulfof Maine (known as Area 1A to herringfishermen) has been cut by more thanhalf since 2006.

“The biggest issue facing herring inMaine’s coastal waters is not knowinghow many fish are out there,” said JasonStockwell, citing the models used byfishery managers for Area 1A that arebased on scarce and old data. “We needto study the inshore population, but itdoesn’t seem to be a priority.”

WHEN WAVES of fish rippled along theshoreline, and the weir fishermen settheir nets in circles fenced with sticksand brush, people would go down to thewater’s edge to watch the fish run.

“It was exciting,” poet Kathleen Ellisremembered. “No one got excited aboutseeing lobsters, but these little fish…itwas a community thing. It meant whaleswere nearby. It meant work.”

Work, at one time, for thousands ofpeople. There were so many factories thatanyone who grew up in Maine likelyknew someone who worked in a cannery.

“A lot of people lived this business,”said Ben Fuller, of Penobscot MarineMuseum. “It was one of the few relative-ly industrial fisheries in Maine.”

American culture tends to celebratethe final few, the last, the end of an era,but rarely the beginning. As keepers of

culture, artists retain the social memo-ry that reminds us all where we havebeen, so that we might imagine newfutures for ourselves and our commu-nities. Poets like Gary Lawless, KarinSpitfire, and Kathleen Ellis remind new-comers and young people just howmuch Maine communities oncedepended on sardines and other fishes.In words, music, and public display,

artists celebrate the past to inspire thefuture.

Later in the summer of 2010, at theBelfast Sardine Extravaganza, foil-coveredcutouts of sardines on sticks lay in the grassawaiting the parade. The stage was emptybefore the invocation. Karin Spitfire’s sar-dine skirt sparkled green in the sun, like somany pearlescent herring scales cast uponthe shores of Belfast Bay. Gary Lawlessapproached the microphone.

“I grew up here and used to hear thesardine whistle blow,” he said. He spoke

of the “wonderful postmodern relic” ofthe defunct Belfast sardine cannery. Chil-dren ran in circles on the sloping hillside.Out on the bay the boats were still.

Singers stepped to the stage and sangsongs about the earth, the sun, the stars,the schools of fish that may forever run.The people clapped, the people sang, andthe people began to remember.

Catherine Schmitt writes for the Maine Sea

Grant College Program at the University of

Maine. She lives in Bangor.

I left the about-to-be-closed plant with

a craving forsardines, the smallones I remembered

from childhood, 10 or 12 in a can,

with bones and tails.

✮